# Replacing floor in 1988 starcraft islander



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

If anyone out there has replaced the floor in a 221v starcraft islander or know someone who has I would like to have a discussion with you thank you


----------



## ErieIslander (Jul 12, 2012)

I have done this job on an 1988 221V hardtop. Used marine grade plywood. Finished it off w/marine vinyl floor covering. Used rivets to secure plywood down just like factory original installation. You can use fiberglass or 2 part epoxy product called plyogrip to coat/seal the plywood in water prone areas depending on how you store your boat. Menards has the best prices I’ve seen on marine grade plywood.


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

ErieIslander said:


> I have done this job on an 1988 221V hardtop. Used marine grade plywood. Finished it off w/marine vinyl floor covering. Used rivets to secure plywood down just like factory original installation. You can use fiberglass or 2 part epoxy product called plyogrip to coat/seal the plywood in water prone areas depending on how you store your boat. Menards has the best prices I’ve seen on marine grade plywood.


I have the same boat just got it.Can you replace the floor in the cabin without removing any of the interior seats and did you remove the console under the captain and passenger chairs.I guess I'm asking what was your procedure


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

ErieIslander said:


> I have done this job on an 1988 221V hardtop. Used marine grade plywood. Finished it off w/marine vinyl floor covering. Used rivets to secure plywood down just like factory original installation. You can use fiberglass or 2 part epoxy product called plyogrip to coat/seal the plywood in water prone areas depending on how you store your boat. Menards has the best prices I’ve seen on marine grade plywood.


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

I posted a picture of the boat hopefully


----------



## ErieIslander (Jul 12, 2012)

Poorboy2004 said:


> I have the same boat just got it.Can you replace the floor in the cabin without removing any of the interior seats and did you remove the console under the captain and passenger chairs.I guess I'm asking what was your procedure


You have to take out the two captains seats/boxes to replace the left and right side floor boards if my memory serves me right. I know I took them out. I replaced all wood floor from from the windshield back to the transom. The center floor board covers the gas tank. My boat has an aluminum 52 gallon gas tank. The cuddly in my boat was fine. Does your boat have open cell foam under the floors? If so, remove it all because it absorbs water and also weights you down too much. I added closed cell foam that doesn’t absorb water. You’ll want to inspect for any loose rivets where the front haul meets the bottom of the boat. Tighten any loose rivets w/air hammer and body dolly. They sell rivet air hammer punches that are concave to fit the rivet heads. You can buy or make one because the concave head ensures the rivet is tightened properly instead of just in the center. It does name a difference. Another tip is after tightening the rivets, seal them on the inside of the boat using a product called Gluv-It. It’s a two part epoxy (wholesale marine or Amazon) and it works great. I can fish all day and don’t need to run my bildge pumps the entire trip.


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

ErieIslander said:


> You have to take out the two captains seats/boxes to replace the left and right side floor boards if my memory serves me right. I know I took them out. I replaced all wood floor from from the windshield back to the transom. The center floor board covers the gas tank. My boat has an aluminum 52 gallon gas tank. The cuddly in my boat was fine. Does your boat have open cell foam under the floors? If so, remove it all because it absorbs water and also weights you down too much. I added closed cell foam that doesn’t absorb water. You’ll want to inspect for any loose rivets where the front haul meets the bottom of the boat. Tighten any loose rivets w/air hammer and body dolly. They sell rivet air hammer punches that are concave to fit the rivet heads. You can buy or make one because the concave head ensures the rivet is tightened properly instead of just in the center. It does name a difference. Another tip is after tightening the rivets, seal them on the inside of the boat using a product called Gluv-It. It’s a two part epoxy (wholesale marine or Amazon) and it works great. I can fish all day and don’t need to run my bildge pumps the entire trip.


Ok thanks for the helpI do have to replace the floor in the cuddy☹If I run into a question hopefully I can get ahold of you


----------



## ErieIslander (Jul 12, 2012)

You’ll be fine. It’s pretty straight forward. Take pictures as you disassemble the cuddy to help w/putting it back together. When you do the cuddy, look over your rivets because that’s your best time to tighten and seal them.


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

ErieIslander said:


> You’ll be fine. It’s pretty straight forward. Take pictures as you disassemble the cuddy to help w/putting it back together. When you do the cuddy, look over your rivets because that’s your best time to tighten and seal them.


Ok thanks


----------



## Doboy (Oct 13, 2008)

I completely re-did my '71 Chieftain,,,, from the 3/4 cabin back,,,, AND Most of my '81 Islander.
I had to do pert-near everything that ErieIslander did,,,, minus the epoxy.

The VERY MUCH USED '71 was popping rivets, (2 rivets, 8mi out!) & eventually developed a 16" CRACK in the port side splash rail/ rib. That was a scary ride.

I have 2 BAGS of 'STARCRAFT' rivets here, if you need some,,,, & also the punches & anvil. I made them, they worked great.

I can't tell by your pictures, if your '88 has rivets up the sides, (gunwales) where the floor joist metal is continued up the sides, strengthening the splash rail? (an '88 should?)
*If you DON'T have 'em on your boat, & your going to tear everything out, consider adding them from the cabin back,,,,,, anyway.
(Back in the '80s, when I repaired my '71,,,, Starcraft actually had a REPAIR KIT,,, 
I made my own.) *

That was ONE of STARCRAFTS BIG MISTAKES, back then. (I know of 4 or 5 DEAD Starcrafts, that had the same problem,,, they were sitting in the GRAVEYARD at the Orangeville Marina! lol, ;>)

*One other thing,,,, old Starcrafts are famous for the front cabin window area spreading apart, & the bottom corners of the windows LEAKING like crazy. (BOTH of my boats had that problem!)*
You just might want to add some heavy gauge aluminum angle from port to starboard, under the cabin roof,,, under the window, to keep it from spreading & pulling the window seals apart.
I could get you some pictures, if you like.?

When everything is apart, Now's the time to re-paint the gas tank(s) & change all of the hoses if need be. Check the tank's anti-backflow valve, if it has one.
I had to change both valves,,, & the floats on the mechanical gas gauges,,,,, one had a leak.
(she had twin 16's)

I also strengthened the dog house & hinges, x4,,,, & added storage shelves above the batteries.


WELL,,,, I hope I gave you, or others, some helpful ideas,,,,, anyway.
*



Like,,,,, (here we go again)
WHERE DO YOU LIVE!? ;>)*


----------



## wave warrior (Oct 2, 2005)

Before spending $$$ on floor , I'd investigate stringers , transom , and motor mounts , might be looking at a much larger project than you anticipate , a bad floor is usually just the signs that many other


----------



## Poorboy2004 (Jun 7, 2019)

Thanks to you all for info and advice.I bought the boat for a song from a lady who's husband passed away haven't even started the motor.He had the hull painted looks professional and was starting to work on the inside so I'm hoping everything is good but I'll check per everyone's advice


----------



## allwayzfishin (Apr 30, 2008)

That’s a really nice Erie rig Poorboy2004. I’m a lil envious lol. Good luck and I’m sure you’ll do a fine job.


----------

