# Newbie



## NEEDABOAT (May 8, 2008)

I am totaly new to fishing the rivers, and would like to try for steelhead this fall. I am looking for any info I can get as I know absolutly nothing. I am not into fly fishing. Would a heavy duty spinning outfit work? What pound test line would I need? What baits work well? Any good general areas ( I am closest to Rocky river). When do they start to show up in the rivers? Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated as I would really like to give this a shot, and be successful. I regularly fish Portage Lakes if I can help any of you with any info. Thanks in advance.


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## thephildo0916 (Mar 4, 2009)

Look through some of the older threads on here from last year around this time, there are plenty of threads that give the exact info, which you seek. I know I have learned tons from reading the old threads, hope this helps!


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## RedJada (Jun 21, 2009)

I would defintly check this thread out. You will learn a lot. I am going as well.

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=151584


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## KSUFLASH (Apr 14, 2004)

I searched my old posts. I didn't want to type all this out again..haha....

Enjoy!!



Every year around this time and even more so when it gets closer to steelheading, I read alot of posts in regards to steelheading and those whom are beginners. Lots of questions from gear, to presentations, to water clarity, to where, etc...

I figured I would throw out my experiences, and try to explain all this steelhead in a manner of which someone as a beginner could understand. Heck I am no pro, but I certainly remember being a beginner and not catching a thing and thinking these steelhead are tough to catch. Quite the contrary actually. With a little knowledge you can get into some steelhead and have a fun day on the water.

From my experience with steelheading, I hope I am able to shed some light on this with my fellow beginners. Everyone has been there before.

So here it goes.....

GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

Leave the normal bass and panfish rods in the garage. You need a Noodle rod. Well you don't really need one, but if you want a better chance at actually catching a steelhead you do in fact get a better shot at them with a noodle rod. 

Whats a noodle rod? It's a long rod, something about 9-12ft long, that serves multiple purposes. 

1. When you get a hit, the fish takes off fairly fast and the long rod is a shock absorber per say and takes alot of stress off your line during that initial run. 

2. Long rods allow you to keep alot of line off the water as you want as little line on the water as possible. The moving water in the rivers makes a loop in your line on the water, hence making your bobber move faster than it should be going.

So get a noodle rod. You don't have to have a top dollar one either. I spent $30 on a 10' Rapala Noodle rod. Works great. 

REEL!!!!!!!

I recommend a good reel with a nice smooth drag. I prefer the drag on the spool rather than the ones on the butt of the reel. Just my personal preference.

You may ask why should I have a decent reel. Simple!!! Think of this...Tie your line to the back of a sport bike, then have the sport bike take off like a rocket. If you don't have a smooth drag, your going to snap your line. 

You are going to have to play steelhead a bit and they may make several runs on you, jumping and thrashing about...This is why we all fish for them. They are exciting to catch.

Spend your money on the reel!!!!

LINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is up for debate, and there are many differant opinions. Here is my recommendation and why.

I use 8lb main line and then carry multiple florocarbon spools for the leader with me. Some people use 6lb main line...Guess it is personal preference, as well as water clarity...I will get to water in a bit.

Why florocarbon??? Very simple, florocarbon is near invisible in the water, hence the steelhead isn't spooked. Use lighter floro in clear water, use heavy floro in muddy water.

I have tried without floro completely, but my catch rate went way up with it. As a beginner my hurdle was how to tie flororcarbon onto my main line. Once you get it down its no big deal. Just practice.

If you catch 20 steelhead in a day your line in my opinion is shot. So I change mine often.

VEST!!!!!!!!!

If your going to fish the rivers you need it. If your going to fish off the break walls it isn't needed but it sure is nice to not have to cary something when you can wear your tackle box.

NET!!!!!!!!!!

Alot of places you won't need a net, but alot of places you will. If you fish where others are, most likely they will have one. 

I have to admit a funny story about my beginner net.....Ok so when I first started out, I took my net....well it looked like a net that trout fisherman used for those precious fish in the streams out West. HAHAHA!!!! those nets are quite a bit small for the bigger strain of fish we have here in the Northeast....I was laughed at when I brought it with me. After seeing someone get a steelhead, I threw the net in the back of the truck and never brought that one with me again...haha...Lessons learned I guess.

WADERS!!!!!!!!!!!!

U need them if your fishing in the rivers, if your on the breakwalls you can leave them at home. Boot fit or sock fit....thats personal preference. Here is a little more info about the boots on the waders. Felt pads on the bottom of the waders are great for when your in the water and walking on rocks...When you get out of the water with felt pads, the mud gets in the felt and you walking on ice....Some boots have studs and felt, I would recommend those, but waders aren't a neccesity to get into steelhead.

BAITS!!!!!!!

I could go on forever here, but I am going to keep it simple. Early season is a jig and maggot combo. Clear water use blacks, in murky water use bright color jigs. Mini-Foos are top choice by alot of anglers. I tie my own so I can customize what I want to present.

There is also the spawn sack but in the early season I suggest the easy jig and maggot combo.

WHERE TO FISH!!!!!!!!!

This is a hot topic!!!! As a beginner I learned more of what to do and not to do by fishing the places that are on the map as public access on the ODNR site. 

Early season your going to begin hearing about reports of fish being caught at the mouth of the rivers. This is one of the best times to learn. You can go up there in jeans and a sweatshirt and toss in a line. Later in the season the fish move into the rivers and wait for spring to spawn.

Those whom do their homework and go walking the rivers and finding the holes now, will reap benefits later. 

It is a respect thing I guess....I work hard to find new spots that are not always gone to much, if I get 20 steelhead there I would be sad if I told someone and they told the entire world....hence you won't hear much about honeyholes, but if you get in with some steelheader and they take you under their wing, you will begin to see what I am talking about.

If someone takes me to a hole, it isn't fair for me to tell someone else, as I wouldn't want that done to me....

Ok enought of that rant....

Get the maps on the ODNR site for steelhead access and get out there...

WATER FLOW!!!!!!!!

If it is raging water you can stay at home. Us steelheaders watch the water gauge's and determine which river is best to fish that day...this takes time to learn. 

If you ask online what river would be good to fish that day, you will get your info from others of us that watch that type of thing....

PRESENTATION!!!!!!!!!

Ladies and Gents, this is where you either get or don't get fish!!!!!!!!!!!

In my opinion, being in the right spot and not presenting the bait properly is what the issue is for lots of beginners.

If your in the river, the bait has to be just above the bottom of the river. If your bobber isn't set properly, then it doesn't matter how many fish are in the hole, you aren't going to get them...Put the bait where the fish's lips are and they will eventually hit it. 

If your at the mouth of the river, I like to set my bobber so the bait is about 5' down then adjust from there. Others like to cast spoons, but I prefer the bobber method.

If your getting stuck on the bottom, then you need to fish shallower, if you never get stuck on the bottom then you need to fish a touch bit deeper.

If your bobber is set correct and near the bottom and you get no bites, change color and try again. If that doesn't work you can change locations.

Ok enough of my babbling for the moment.......I will post more thoughts a bit later.

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10/16/2007 Update!!!

It has been some time that I have added any content to this post. So as I sit here thinking about it at work, and it is a slow day. I thought I would attempt to share some more info with those of you whom care to listen.

I have gotten some really good questions over the past several months leading up to the fall steelheading season. I am going to attempt to answer them.

I am going to focus on how to fish for the chromers this time, rather than what you need to have in regards to equipment.

Early season wall fishing is differant than in the river float fishing. I will explain below.

Fishing the mouths of the rivers either via the break walls or wading into the Erie Shores is differant due to a few things. First and foremost, the fish at the mouth of the rivers are staging. They are basically hanging out waiting for a good rain to trigger them to begin their journey up the rivers current. Hence the majority of fish I have caught at the mouths of the rivers are from 5ft down to almost the surface of the water. This is much differant than when the fish are in the rivers. When the fish are in the rivers, they relate to the bottom of the river. So you need to get your baits down in front of their face. 

The easiest way I can put it is, the Mouth of the rivers you fish from about 5-6' down, and then adjust up from there. In the rivers, you need to always be checking your floats to ensure yout presentation is down towards the bottom.

Breakwall fishing is the best opportunity for those beginning to get into catching steelhead. Simple fact is that you can cast spoons, inline spinners, or jig/maggot combinations and have very good success in getting on fish.

As with anything else, there is that "YOU SHOULD HAVE BEEN HERE YESTERDAY" I have seen it where the fish are hitting quite well, and then the next day they seem to have dissappeared. As of lately fish have been biting better during the later evening, than in the early morning. You just have to watch the reports and make your best guess.

Ok so when casting spoons, I cast out, count to about 5, then begin reeling in at a normal steady pace. It is easy to loose your attention and begin day dreaming and looking at the scenery. Thats usually when you get a hit!!!

Did you check your drag? You should have, and it should be tight enough that when setting the hook that you hear a little pop of drag, but not too loose that you wouldn't get a good hookset.

Inline spinners are the same. I would recommend getting some decone 3/4 or 1/2 ounce sized spoons and spinners. They allow you to cast out a ways, and they get down in the water colomn nice.

There isn't a whole lot I can say about what you do when you get a hookup!!!

All I can say is check your drag even after the hookup. If you need to loosen it, do it fast. Steelies run fast and can snap you off in a New York Minute. 

A few last comments about Breakwall fishing. The mud line, the waves, the others around you.

Depending on the day, you can be at the breakwalls with no waves, or waves 7ft or bigger. I suggest fishing outside of the mudline. If the water is all muddied up, you need to find clearer water. Your success rate will be higher if the fish can actully see your spoon/spinners in the water. If by chance your neighbor gets a hookup. You need to reel your stuff in quickly. Or let me say....you need to reel your stuff in IMMEDIATLEY....the steelies may run right, left, in, or straight out. But I can tell you whatever way they run, it's gonna be in a heartbeat. I have seen it so many times that others don't reel in, then all of a sudden I got 2 others fishermans line tangled into my fish, and then my fish breaks off. Be kind to others so they will be kind to you. Reel your stuff in and enjoy watching how others catch the steelies so that you may learn how to yourself.

Ok enough about break walls. Long story short. Go to walls, cast spoons and spinners. Get hooked up. Enjoy the fight of the great steelhead.

Below are some pics of spinners and spoons I use.









cheers!!!!

flash-----------------------------------------------out




I have been reading alot of posts lately about some of our newest steelhead fisherman hunting for their first steelhead, and not having alot of luck. I would like to help all of you out by giving some more tips and tricks to you all. 

Lets face it....we are now in full swing winter....the river temps are now down to the point that anything that swims is gonna be lethargic to say the least. Below are some tips to hopefully help you in your search for steelhead.

1. Now more than ever the saying "90% of the fish are in 10% of the rivers" holds true. If you not catching fish, your either in the wrong spot or read tip #2

2. Tis the season to put the bait on the tip of the steelheads nose. No really, you need to make sure your bait is either bouncing off bottom or within about 6" of the bottom. Steelhead don't tend to chase after your offering this time of year. They usually only bite on those baits that are presented on the tip of their nose.

3. Check the web for the flow gauge readings prior to departing for your local stream. If you don't know what the optimal readings are, you need to find them out. Both flow and clarity are key to having any chance at a successful day of steelhead fishing. For example, I fish the Chagrin. Flow at 300cfs and I am going to fish a certain stretch, 250cfs I will fish another, and anything above 350cfs I prefer to head to another river. 

4. Jig/maggot or spawn????? This question gets asked alot. Both what to use and how to use them......Here are some tips for you on the topic.....If you don't have FRESH spawn, when I say fresh, I don't mean store bought from those little jars at Gander or Dicks, then your wasting your time with spawn...You need to get eggs from either a fresh fish, or get them from sometwhere like Erie Outfitters that gets fresh spawn in.....If you have no access to fresh spawn, you need to use jig/maggot....

I see alot of posts asking what color of jig.....thats like asking what color to use when bass fishing or crappie fishing....everyone has their go to color that they have confidence in, but that doesn't mean the fish will hit it that day. You need a variety of jigs in differant colors.....switch up the color every 15 minutes if you get no hits. The maggots you put on are just for scent....Hence when the maggots look faded, put on fresh maggots.

5. It doesn't matter if you use jig/maggot or spawn sacks....If your not in the right spot or your not fishing the right depth, refer back to Tip #2.

6. Some have asked how you know how deep to fish.....You need be approx. 6" or closer to the bottom of the river bed....How do you know how deep that is??? You NEED a float with a stem on the top of it....NOT a float that is styrafoam with the lead weight....You are going to need to learn what that stem is telling you as it is drifting down the river....I will give you some pointers.

A. If the stem of your float is pointed downstream...a.k.a. It is pointed in the direction of the current.....You presentation is dragging the bottom of the river bed. "You float is set too deep"

B. If the stem of your float is pointed upstream....a.k.a. It is pointed opposite the direction of the flow....Your presentation is leading your float...."This can be both good and bad depending on how your fishing" I suggest you adjust the ammount of weight you have approx. 12" from your presentation...making it heavier, hence putting the presentation closer to the bottom of the river bed.

C. If the sem of your float appears to be pointed straight up/down....your presentation isn't on the bottom of the river bed. Now realize that the river bottom is ever changing...lots of humps, pockets, holes, etc....So as your bait floats it may tick the bottom every once in a while of which you can tell by that stem on your float.....

The trick to getting the right float height takes practice. You should be adjusting your float every single cast until such time that you are convinced that your bait is somewhere around 6" to just on bottom. If you don't care to do this, then stay home your wasting your time.....

Watch how deep others are fishing and start there. Other tactic is to start by adjusting your float about 4' deep, cast upstream and drift....watch that float...what is it doing...if the stem is pointed downstream, then your too deep...if not, adjust your float.

Learning exactly what your float is telling you is key and what you should focus on. If you don't know where your bait is in the water column, then your not going to catch fish.

7. How to tie and use spawn sacks.....There has been many questions about spawn and what it is all about....There are differant types of eggs that we tie up into tiny sized sacks...

A. Steelhead
B. Brown Trout
C. King Salmon

Each egg looks a bit differant and in many cases is a differant size egg. Some Eggs are singular and others are bulked together by connective tissue. Then there is the cure vs. non-cured....to each their own....If you get your hands on spawn that is fresh or freshly cured, your much better off than the clear jars of it from the store.

I have had the best luck with spawn sacks tied up pretty small with single eggs. I put 3 eggs into 1 sack and use a small size 10 egg hook. 

Colors of mesh for the spawn sack have been questioned. Each person has their go to color. The fish change their mood so have 3 basic colors tied up. White, Pink, and Floro Green has been my choices.

8. So the keys to success are location, depth of presentation, fresh spawn or jig/maggot.

9. How to find the right spot to fish? You need to see if you can hookup with someone that knows of some fishing holes that are holding fish....As unless you know where they are holding your wasting your time, or you can do some research and find the public access spots to the river you wish to fish, go to it and learn from those that are fishing there, but the better option in the long run is to try and do some scouting in the spring/summer time and wade the rivers and find some nice holes that can produce in the winter.

Trying to get hooked up with steelhead in the winter is hard in itself due to their temperment. Not having confidence in your location doesn't help the matter, nor does not knowing how deep to fish, not knowing how to read that float, not having fresh spawn, etc.....


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## thephildo0916 (Mar 4, 2009)

nice post ksu, very informative.


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## steelheader007 (Apr 8, 2004)

hey KSU could you expaline with a little more detail ..lol.. Great job bro!


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## yonderfishin (Apr 9, 2006)

NEEDABOAT said:


> I am totaly new to fishing the rivers, and would like to try for steelhead this fall. I am looking for any info I can get as I know absolutly nothing. I am not into fly fishing. Would a heavy duty spinning outfit work? What pound test line would I need? What baits work well? Any good general areas ( I am closest to Rocky river). When do they start to show up in the rivers? Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated as I would really like to give this a shot, and be successful. I regularly fish Portage Lakes if I can help any of you with any info. Thanks in advance.


Plenty of good information here. I am a newbie too , only I probably live farther from decent steelhead water than you. One thing Ive noticed so far is this can get expensive in a hurry. I bought a low priced noodle type rod , 12 ft. though I cut about 6 or 7 inches off the tip and already had a decent reel to put on it so I should be set as far as the rod goes. I would like to get a better reel but this one will work until I do. I traded a dehumidifier I had sitting around for some waders last fall and have been slowly adding things to my steelhead tackle as time goes by. My attempt to fish the Rocky this past spring was a bust since I had the wrong type rod and not really any idea what I was doing but atleast I had a chance to scout the river a bit. Hopefully this winter I will have a better shot since Ive been reading , asking questions and taking in all the information I can and am better prepared. Seems like fall and winter should be better for a beginner since there isnt as much worry of huge snow melts and flooding , Im sure it happens but not like the spring thaw. Im hoping that means the rivers are a little more stable or predictable. Good luck with the steelhead , there are plenty of people on here willing to help and a lot to be learned.


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## ironfish (Jul 31, 2010)

you can make this the most complicated sport or keep it simple KSU had some great takes, well thought out and for the most part spot on! I would like to add a little on the locating end of the sport,if you cant or dont want to learn how to read a river you may be in for a long season.You have to be able to understand that differant times of the year ie diff water temps the fish are gonna hold in diff spots on a productive streach of river.I like water that has a double bend to it lots of elevation change depending on the time of year or water temps ill fish the chutes or waterfalls usually fall,the fish will be running or pausing there. As the water cools down concentrate on the deeper pools, I found a great technique for winter was concentrating on the snag ares ie fallen trees,pulled out some fish there and saved the skunk! also presentation is equallly important if your not in the strike zone your just holding on to a rod freezing your butt off.Read alot of the old threads it will pay off huge dividends!
ironfish


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## steelheadBob (Jul 6, 2004)

steelheader007 said:


> hey KSU could you expaline with a little more detail ..lol.. Great job bro!


no kidding..... Can you make us an audio tape next time!!!!!! LOL


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## KSUFLASH (Apr 14, 2004)

How about some podcasts!  :Banane03:


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