# Bait Caster + Light Lure = FRUSTRATION!!!



## randallbob (Mar 13, 2011)

Last spring I bought an Abu Garcia Revo xs bait casting reel and a Carrot Stix 66 medium heavy fast action rod. The rod is rated for 3/8 to 3/4oz lures and 10-20lbs line. I am running 14lb Berkley mono on it. I bought this to be my crank bait set up. And hopefully, my main fishing set up. Unfortunately, the crank baits I use most are less than a 1/2oz in weight. Think Rapala Shad Rap #7.

Im sure you can see where this is headed I am pretty frustrated with my ability to cast this rig with any kind of consistency or accuracy. I have a 5/8oz casting plug that I can cast pretty far (approx. 120) without getting birds nests and my accuracy is ok. I can duplicate those casts with a good size lipless crank out on the water. But when the lure gets lighter I have all kinds of problems. So I could use some advice on the following questions:

	Am I using lures that are too light?
	Is my line too heavy?
	Do I just need to suck it up and practice more?

I have talked to a lot of guys on how to set up the reel. I have also watched numerous videos on how to set up my reel so I feel it is relatively close to where it needs to be. Feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
-Randy


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

You're in the same boat as me. I can cast relatively heavy lures just fine with a bait caster, but really anything lighter than a 1/2 oz is a no go. I tried fiddling with the spool tension and the magnetic anti-backlash to no avail. I guess this is why spinning reels and rods were invented.


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## Snakecharmer (Apr 9, 2008)

Baitcasters are best 1/2 and over, especially with a MHD or HD rod. You can try a light action rod and 10# test but if i'm tossing 3/8 or less its going to be on a spinning rod.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

It's not easy to cast light lures with a baitcaster, but it can be done with the proper rod/line/reel combo. I'd say your biggest issue is your rod. It will probably take a med. To med. Light action rod to load up well enough to cast a shad rap to a decent distance.

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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

I'd say one of your biggest problems is that it's a Shad Rap. Great baits that catch a lot of fish... but they cast like crap. It's not a very balanced or aerodynamic lure when it comes to casting. The next problem is a combination of things IMO. One is as Bad Bub said..... the power of the rod, the other is the action of the rod. If it were a lighter powered rod the blank would load up better even with the fast action. If it were a slower action rod the blank would load up better even with the medium heavy power. You're really trying to throw a crappy casting crank bait with a rod that's better suited to fishing worms or jigs. 

You mentioned that you may need to practice more, but didn't mention what kind of experience you have with bait casting equipment. You can throw light and even less aerodynamic lures with heavy line and heavy action bait casting gear .... it just takes practice.


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## ironman172 (Apr 12, 2009)

your answer.....spinning


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## randallbob (Mar 13, 2011)

This is my first bait caster set up. As I said, I only started with it last spring. Maybe I will start looking at a "softer" rod. It's just that I paid a fair amount for the rod and I don't want to abandoned it so easily.

If I do look for a different rod it seems like I should consider a medium rod with a slower action tip. Sound about right?

-Randy


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## randallbob (Mar 13, 2011)

One other thing... Before I bought this set up I asked around as to what would be the best bait casting set up to specifically fish crank baits. I was told to get a 6'6" to 7' med. heavy fast action rod. So that's what I got. So is this a good set up for crank baits?


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## JimmyMac (Feb 18, 2011)

I always bring one spinning setup and one baitcaster. Baitcaster for heavier baits, spinning rig for light stuff. Trying to toss light baits isn't worth the trouble IMO, when you can put that light bait on a spinning rig and toss it a mile.


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## claytonhaske (Apr 16, 2010)

randallbob said:


> One other thing... Before I bought this set up I asked around as to what would be the best bait casting set up to specifically fish crank baits. I was told to get a 6'6" to 7' med. heavy fast action rod. So that's what I got. So is this a good set up for crank baits?


No, you want about a 7' rod with medium power, moderate action. and you need to adjust your reel to each bait you throw, if you change baits from a 1/2oz rattletrap to a 1/4oz shad rap you need to readjust your brake/clutch settings on your reel. hope this helps. Clayton.


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## jonnythfisherteen2 (Mar 5, 2011)

i can cast 1/4 oz lures but i have to watch the spool real close or else ill be picking up line for hours.


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## robertj298 (Feb 23, 2009)

For small cranks I use a medium light action and 10 lb. test. I hardly ever use a medium heavy action rod for cranks unless they are really heavy cranks and I never use more than 12 lb. test line for cranks. Not only does heavier line limit your casting distance , it limits your lures action and how deep it will dive.


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## pppatrick (Apr 21, 2012)

That rod is screamin' for wormin', top water, maybe a 1/2 oz plus spinnerbait. 

You'll be able to really chunk those lighter, less aerodynamic cranks on a medium/moderate action rod. I put off getting a rod made for cranks, last year was my first year with a true crankin rod. What was i waitin for. Its, like they said, you really want that rod to load up on the cast, and give the fish some room when they hit. That stiff rod will pull that bait right away. 


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## papaperch (Apr 12, 2004)

I have a rather inexpensive rig that casts light lures rather well. Pflueger razor tip light action 6-6 rod. It is paired with a Bass Pro Crappie Maxx give reel.

To give you ides on size of reel it spool capacity is 100 yds of 10 lb test. While I have more expensive set ups. This rig handles the the lighter stuff really well.

This rig was always intended by me to be a panfish getter. It not only handles that job it has landed some bigger fish with no great strain. Musky , flatheads and others have fallen to the " mighty mite " . 

For the really light stuff though . There is no replacing the spinning set up.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Randall, if you're looking for a rod that will cast a #7 Shap Rap well, I'd be looking for something of medium light to medium power. Even with a rod in that power range, don't expect to be firing 100 foot casts with that lure. It's just not gonna happen. As far as the action and power rod that was suggested to you .... as I and others have said, that's really a power and action that is more suited to worms, jigs, Carolina rigs, swim baits, and as Patrick said..... spinner baits. Single hook lures, versus multiple treble hook lures.

As you can see from some of the previous posts, a rods action and power can be mislabeled or confused. The power of a rod is basically it's lure weight rating. Light, medium, medium heavy etc. are power ratings, not actions. The action of a rod, extra fast, fast, medium fast etc ... describes how quickly the flex in the rods tip, transitions into the backbone of the blank. The faster the action, the more quickly the tip transitions to the backbone of the rod. For crank baits, a medium fast to moderate or even slow action is better than a fast action. Not so much for casting lures, (you can cast practically any lure with any action rod) but for hooking and fighting fish. When a bass hits a crank bait they don't always grab the lure through body motion alone. If you watch underwater footage of a bass striking a crank bait they will open their mouth and flair their gills, actually sucking the lure in, just as if they were sucking a worm off the bottom. Since a crank bait is in motion, a faster action rod will pull the lure away from their mouth more quickly than a slower action rod. The slower action allows the fish to get the lure deeper into their mouth, resulting in a better hook up percentage. Once hooked up the slower and softer action of the rod absorbs more of the fishes energy, which helps to keep treble hooks from pulling out. A slower action also helps control any slack in the line that may occur during the fight. 

You can use fast action rods for crank baits, a lot of people do and are quite successful at it. But it's usually with a lighter powered rod.


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## grub_man (Feb 28, 2005)

randallbob said:


> Last spring I bought an Abu Garcia Revo xs bait casting reel and a Carrot Stix 66 medium heavy fast action rod. The rod is rated for 3/8 to 3/4oz lures and 10-20lbs line. I am running 14lb Berkley mono on it. I bought this to be my crank bait set up. And hopefully, my main fishing set up. Unfortunately, the crank baits I use most are less than a 1/2oz in weight. Think Rapala Shad Rap #7.
> 
> So I could use some advice on the following questions:
> 
> ...


Randy,

Your problems are across the board. As mentioned, a MH fast action rod is far from ideal for cranking, especially lighter cranks. Also, 14lb. mono with a Shad Rap is not a good combo. Those things offer enough wind resistance. You don't need any more. 8-10lb. is about all I want for casting those lures. Also practice is always a good thing.

Joe


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## jason_0545 (Aug 3, 2011)

bassbme hit the whole deal on the head. use the rod u have for big spinner baits soft plastics jig n pig c-rig maybe a chatterbait. been where u are and ur just gonna frustrate urself


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## ringmuskie9 (Mar 26, 2009)

I'm in the same boat with light lures and baitcasters... I can feel your pain. 

I was wondering has anyone tried this new reel/rod set up from Bass Pro..they say it's backlash free??? I was thinking about picking one up but with all the extras added to a reel I just feel it's just more that can go wrong. I personally love the BSP Pro Qualifiers


http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Sho...st-Rod-and-Reel-Combos/product/1212180610404/


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## jlieder (Jul 23, 2010)

Browning Silaflex rod. The old time fiberglass allows you to chuck lighter cranks easily. $50 at BPS.


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## BigDub007 (Apr 1, 2010)

I am not try in to be a jerk ....but you need a lot of practice...I trow a 1/8th all day with baitcaster ...my setup is junk compared to yours..I fish for bass with senkos ...don't buy a new rod , do you think you could hit like tiger woods if you used his clubs...didn't think so .practice practice practice....bring a spin caster and when you loose your chi switch up...don't waste your money....


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## Marshall (Apr 11, 2004)

Shad rap = the toughest crankbait to cast with a baitcaster. It can be done but for a beginner i would try with a bandit, norman or strike king that is a tad heavier. Nothing wrong with using a spinning reel to cast a shad rap, they are fish catchers. Someone mentioned in a post above about a backlash free baitcaster. There is no such thing. Some are easier to cast then others. Once you figure them out most are pretty manageable. Its all about getting the breaks set properly.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

ringmuskie9 said:


> I'm in the same boat with light lures and baitcasters... I can feel your pain.
> 
> I was wondering has anyone tried this new reel/rod set up from Bass Pro..they say it's backlash free???
> I was thinking about picking one up but with all the extras added to a reel I just feel it's just more that can go wrong. I personally love the BSP Pro Qualifiers
> ...


Yeah, right! I've been to that movie before. When the "magnetic anti-backlash" reels first came out I thought, "HUZZAH!" Well, not everything is what it's cracked up to be. Frankly, I don't think there's a baitcaster made that you can't backlash if you use it badly enough. And, if there were a baitcaster that you absolutely COULD NOT backlash, whatever method they used to slow down the spool (what we're really talking about here), would probably cost you a ton of distance.


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## giniman11 (Sep 28, 2009)

jlieder said:


> Browning Silaflex rod. The old time fiberglass allows you to chuck lighter cranks easily. $50 at BPS.


Seconded. I got a 7ft Browning Silaflex last year for a crankbait rod and have loved it. It's cheap, the fiberglass action and feel are great and I've been able to cast even small squarebills with no problems


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## robertj298 (Feb 23, 2009)

BigDub007 said:


> I am not try in to be a jerk ....but you need a lot of practice...I trow a 1/8th all day with baitcaster ...my setup is junk compared to yours..I fish for bass with senkos ...don't buy a new rod , do you think you could hit like tiger woods if you used his clubs...didn't think so .practice practice practice....bring a spin caster and when you loose your chi switch up...don't waste your money....


I'm sure that with practice you could throw a light lure with about any setup but I'll bet you could throw that same light lure a lot better and further with the right setup.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

robertj298 said:


> I'm sure that with practice you could throw a light lure with about any setup but I'll bet you could throw that same light lure a lot better and further with the right setup.


Exactly. It's not about the price of the rod, the action is what is going to launch your bait out there.

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## t.stuller (Feb 25, 2010)

Adjust your spool control so that when you push the thumb bar, your lure only slowly goes down about a foot (no more, no less). This will give you good casting ability adjusted for the weight of the lure your using and help to limit backlashing. Adjust it every time you switch to a different weight lure. I use 8" Mann's jelly worms hooked weedless with no weight and can wing it fairly far. Hope this works for you.


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## boxer (Dec 11, 2012)

Adjust, adjust, and adjust! Can't say it enough, also thumb breaking is important if your target casting to a certain spot. Also remember to turn your rod to the side at the end of your cast, it seems to help a lot. The right set up is also important, I use my SX on a KVD cranking rod with 25 lb. fluorocarbon and with the right adjustments, I can cast small shad raps to large crank baits. It's not easy all the time, but you can get it to work for you with right adjustments.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

boxer said:


> Adjust, adjust, and adjust! Can't say it enough, also thumb breaking is important if your target casting to a certain spot. Also remember to turn your rod to the side at the end of your cast, it seems to help a lot. The right set up is also important, I use my SX on a KVD cranking rod with 25 lb. fluorocarbon and with the right adjustments, I can cast small shad raps to large crank baits. It's not easy all the time, but you can get it to work for you with right adjustments.


Cranking with 25# flouro!?!?

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## legendaryyaj (Nov 1, 2005)

These are all valid points but at the end of the day, you have to use the right tool for the right job. You can only make so many adjustments on a reel.

The issue is the spool in your reel. People buy according to bearing count and how long a reel can free spool with no line . Those are all myths to how good a reel is going to be. Bearing count makes a reel feel smoother. Did you know that 4 of the bearings in a high bearing count reel are usually in the handle? What performance are you going to get from bearings in a handle? NONE. It just feels smoother. You only need bearings where they count and the majority of the reels in today's day and age have them where needed. Fewer quality bearings is better than a lot of junk bearings.

As for the spool test? A heavier spool is going to spin faster. It's basic physics. It's heavy so it will keep going longer. A lighter spool won't spin as long but it starts up quicker because it's lighter(needed for light baits). If it's heavy, it's going to be harder to start spinning hence why a light bait will cause a reel with a heavy spool to get backlashes. There are some reels that have the lighter spools but they are expensive. Any reel can cast any lure but how it's to be accomplish is what matters.

IMO, I believe that you really get what you pay for when you buy reels.


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## boxer (Dec 11, 2012)

Bad Bub said:


> Cranking with 25# flouro!?!?
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


That's what I call fun crank'en, I throw my large cranks up to 40 yards or more. The 25lb flours helps button the fish up when you set the hook when they strike at 30 yards away or more. It also helps you retrieve your lures better when you snag up, the stuff is as strong as hell.


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## USMC_Galloway (May 13, 2011)

I havent seen anything mentioned about the tension you are using for the real. Did you do the drop test to make sure its not to lose, thus allowing the spool to spin to fast? 

Aside from that, I think the line may play the biggest part in the backlash. I throw JSR 5 all day sometimes with my 6'6" MH rod, with little effort , unless it is into a stiff wind.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

boxer said:


> That's what I call fun crank'en, I throw my large cranks up to 40 yards or more. The 25lb flours helps button the fish up when you set the hook when they strike at 30 yards away or more. It also helps you retrieve your lures better when you snag up, the stuff is as strong as hell.


Oh, no doubt it's strong as hell. I use it for flipping jigs.... just never heard of anyone using it for cranking other than square bills....

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## boxer (Dec 11, 2012)

For long distance casting with medium to large cranks and swim baits, 25 pound fluorocarbon works fine. Just make sure your using it on the right rig. One of the main reasons I use the heavy of flouro is due to the the amount of custom lures I use, which can run me any were from 20 to 40 dollars each. I can retrieve them better after a snag up using the heavy fluorocarbon. The heavier flouro cast further than braided line. 

The bass in Ohio fish small so your not going to land 4 to 5 pounders all day like you can down south. Your better off fishing small and light lures on spinning gear, that's just my opinion. Spinning reel have advance so much over the past 20 years the only thing you can't do very well with them is long distance casting and deep water fishing. With the right set up you can put all most any type of line on a spinning reel these days, which allows you to fish all types of lures and different fishing techniques. I fish with guys that only use bait casters and I can use alot of the same techniques they use with a spinning reel and less time spent clearing out birdnest. Due to the advancement of spinning reel technology is the reason it's still around and used today. If there was any thing better for light baits no one would use a spinning reel.

And to answer UMSC question the tension knob is key that's what I meant by adjustment, and the drop test is key in setting your lure to your bait caster. Once the tension is set (again using the right reel) you don't even need to thumb the reel at all.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

boxer said:


> For long distance casting with medium to large cranks and swim baits, 25 pound fluorocarbon works fine. Just make sure your using it on the right rig. One of the main reasons I use the heavy of flouro is due to the the amount of custom lures I use, which can run me any were from 20 to 40 dollars each. I can retrieve them better after a snag up using the heavy fluorocarbon. The heavier flouro cast further than braided line.
> 
> The bass in Ohio fish small so your not going to land 4 to 5 pounders all day like you can down south. Your better off fishing small and light lures on spinning gear, that's just my opinion. Spinning reel have advance so much over the past 20 years the only thing you can't do very well with them is long distance casting and deep water fishing. With the right set up you can put all most any type of line on a spinning reel these days, which allows you to fish all types of lures and different fishing techniques. I fish with guys that only use bait casters and I can use alot of the same techniques they use with a spinning reel and less time spent clearing out birdnest. Due to the advancement of spinning reel technology is the reason it's still around and used today. If there was any thing better for light baits no one would use a spinning reel.
> 
> And to answer UMSC question the tension knob is key that's what I meant by adjustment, and the drop test is key in setting your lure to your bait caster. Once the tension is set (again using the right reel) you don't even need to thumb the reel at all.


You don't need to thumb the reel at all? 

You have to thumb the spool. It doesn't matter how you have your tension knob adjusted. Unless of course you have it so tight that the reel won't cast. If you don't thumb the spool you're going to get back lashes. It's that simple. 

And spinning gear is great for deep water fishing. I use it for fishing deep water all the time. Guys routinely use spinning gear for drop shot rigs and shaky head rigs in 30' + water up on Lake Erie.


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## lordofthepunks (Feb 24, 2009)

boxer said:


> For long distance casting with medium to large cranks and swim baits, 25 pound fluorocarbon works fine. Just make sure your using it on the right rig. One of the main reasons I use the heavy of flouro is due to the the amount of custom lures I use, which can run me any were from 20 to 40 dollars each. I can retrieve them better after a snag up using the heavy fluorocarbon. The heavier flouro cast further than braided line.
> 
> The bass in Ohio fish small so your not going to land 4 to 5 pounders all day like you can down south. Your better off fishing small and light lures on spinning gear, that's just my opinion. Spinning reel have advance so much over the past 20 years the only thing you can't do very well with them is long distance casting and deep water fishing. With the right set up you can put all most any type of line on a spinning reel these days, which allows you to fish all types of lures and different fishing techniques. I fish with guys that only use bait casters and I can use alot of the same techniques they use with a spinning reel and less time spent clearing out birdnest. Due to the advancement of spinning reel technology is the reason it's still around and used today. If there was any thing better for light baits no one would use a spinning reel.
> 
> And to answer UMSC question the tension knob is key that's what I meant by adjustment, and the drop test is key in setting your lure to your bait caster. Once the tension is set (again using the right reel) you don't even need to thumb the reel at all.


man, i hate to call you out because you clearly like fishing, and i like fisherman but some of the stuff you are saying is just so completely backwards, it makes absolutely no sense...

first off... in no worldly fashion does 25lb diameter floro outcast braid in nearly any comparable diameter, let alone some of the smaller stuff like 20lb(6lb diameter)... in fact, even smaller diameter floro like 10lb or 12lb (the normal size line for cranking) will outperform the heavier line.... the worst casting line on earth is 25lb floro carbon and its not even debatable... even the best of the best brands arent real managable... you even said it yourself, you are making 40 yard casts... if you had the right gear with the right line and a reasonably sized crankbait, there is no reason why you shouldnt be able to make 50, 60 yard casts, ive even heard of guys getting 70 yards.... those numbers are the norm if you know what you are doing (having the right gear, good form, good technique and unafraid to let it rip)

2nd - whats the point of spending all that money on crankbaits, having different sizes and different depths if they arent doing what they are designed to do? you are killing the depth at which they are designed to run... 25lb floro is probably taking 4-6 feet off the max depth on a dd20, add that to the depth you are losing because of short casts and the next thing you know, your DD20 is diving 10 feet.... thats hardly effective and technically, with the smaller diameter line, and a nice long distance cast, that dd20 might dive 22 or 24 feet... which means you could be losing 12 to 14 feet on a given cast doing it the way you are suggesting...

this basic chart shows that
8lb - 20% deeper than 14lb
10lb - 15% deeper than 14lb
12lb - 10% deeper than 14lb
17lb - 5% more shallow than 14lb
20lb - 10% more shallow than 14lb



3rdly - spinning reels have not advanced that much.. they look cooler, they are lighter and they are smoother but those things do not dictate what lures they can fish.... not to mention LONG DISTANCE CASTING is where they shine... there is a reason surf fisherman use them and it isnt because they dont know how to use a baitcaster... the problem with spinning gear is that they are far less versatile when you are talking about an individual reel.. you arent going to spool up 25lb floro on a series 10 quantum energy because it wouldnt cast but 10 yards and you arent going to spool up 10lb braid on a surf reel, you would need 700 yards of the stuff to fill the spool...

4thly - if you are that concerned with losing crankbaits, just get a lure retriever, they work and you dont have to worry about the lure so much that it wont catch fish...


sorry for the rant but there are alot of people reading this stuff, and you seem convincing but in all honesty, you are either just plain wrong or you are going by a very limited experience from which the things you suggest work for you because you are cranking from the bank, or you are cranking in absurdly shallow water, or you are cranking in some other fashion that is so far from the norm that the only place it really makes sense is in your situation... but your situation, if thats the case, is not an every day scenario.



like said before, fishing square bills in laydowns in 4 feet of water, prob the only scenario in the history of fishing where using 25lb floro seems remotely reasonable for cranking... why? cover, lack of a need for depth, lack of a need for distance casting and a need for touger line... 


i hope you dont hate me..... just get annoyed by false or bad info...


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## Duncan Bay (Nov 10, 2011)

25lb test fluoro is about as supple as 12-2 electrical wire. Is it possible to get 120ft of 25lb fluoro on most baitcast spools anyway?


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Duncan Bay said:


> 25lb test fluoro is about as supple as 12-2 electrical wire. Is it possible to get 120ft of 25lb fluoro on most baitcast spools anyway?


Maybe a penn slammer....

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## Duncan Bay (Nov 10, 2011)

Bad Bub said:


> Maybe a penn slammer....
> 
> posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


That's what I throw a flick shake on.


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## t.stuller (Feb 25, 2010)

USMC_Galloway said:


> I havent seen anything mentioned about the tension you are using for the real. Did you do the drop test to make sure its not to lose, thus allowing the spool to spin to fast?
> 
> Aside from that, I think the line may play the biggest part in the backlash. I throw JSR 5 all day sometimes with my 6'6" MH rod, with little effort , unless it is into a stiff wind.


I mentioned it a couple posts down. I wont even cast a baitcast till I test it


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## boxer (Dec 11, 2012)

lordofthepunks said:


> man, i hate to call you out because you clearly like fishing, and i like fisherman but some of the stuff you are saying is just so completely backwards, it makes absolutely no sense...
> 
> first off... in no worldly fashion does 25lb diameter floro outcast braid in nearly any comparable diameter, let alone some of the smaller stuff like 20lb(6lb diameter)... in fact, even smaller diameter floro like 10lb or 12lb (the normal size line for cranking) will outperform the heavier line.... the worst casting line on earth is 25lb floro carbon and its not even debatable... even the best of the best brands arent real managable... you even said it yourself, you are making 40 yard casts... if you had the right gear with the right line and a reasonably sized crankbait, there is no reason why you shouldnt be able to make 50, 60 yard casts, ive even heard of guys getting 70 yards.... those numbers are the norm if you know what you are doing (having the right gear, good form, good technique and unafraid to let it rip)
> 
> ...


First off, I dont haters, I pray for them.... but to make a correction on the 25lb floro comments, I did make mistake when I quoted that I use 25lb floro on my bait caster. I actually use "20lb" floro on my bait caster. That was my mistake and I apologize for any mental anguish it may have caused you or anyone else. 

As I read your post, and I went to check the last box of floro I had which was 25lb. I forgot that I used 25lb floro for making liters for my braid line. My mistake again and I thank you for helping me realizing my mistake. As for which line cast the best, braid or floro thats just my opinion. You've been around long enough to know what everyone says about opinions and a##holes. You can also cast 20lb floro over 50 yards, if you wanted to know. 

As for your comment about me giving out bad info to those seeking information about fishing, I'm only giving out info from my experience. Your experience may be different from mine, but that doesnt mean I'm trying to put out misleading information out to anyone. That's the great thing about a site like this one you can learn something new every day and not just depend on what a manufacture puts on a package.


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## boxer (Dec 11, 2012)

Bassbme said:


> You don't need to thumb the reel at all?
> 
> You have to thumb the spool. It doesn't matter how you have your tension knob adjusted. Unless of course you have it so tight that the reel won't cast. If you don't thumb the spool you're going to get back lashes. It's that simple.
> 
> And spinning gear is great for deep water fishing. I use it for fishing deep water all the time. Guys routinely use spinning gear for drop shot rigs and shaky head rigs in 30' + water up on Lake Erie.


All I'm saying is for thrown crank baits and swim baits on my Revo SX reel, once I have the tension set right, I can cast it with out thumbing the SPOOL, "to be correct."


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## lordofthepunks (Feb 24, 2009)

It's not an opinion that braid outcasts floro, it's a fact... Unless "outcasts" means something other then casting distance... As for "mental" anguish, you have caused no such thing. And yeah, I am aware that you can cast 50yds with 20lb floro... But if you were using smaller diameter line you would be able to cast further and your crankbait would dive more then half it's designed depth.


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## jason_0545 (Aug 3, 2011)

just wondering???? wont higher pound test flouro(since it sinks) make your crank run deeper on the same length cast then a lighter test flouro??????


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## Duncan Bay (Nov 10, 2011)

jason_0545 said:


> just wondering???? wont higher pound test flouro(since it sinks) make your crank run deeper on the same length cast then a lighter test flouro??????


It has to do with the amount of resistance between the line and water (larger diameter or greater surface area=more resistance). Resistance will make your line stay up in the water column rather than cutting through the water, your crankbait will fight it and not achieve it's potential depth as it was developed to.


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## pppatrick (Apr 21, 2012)

I've never thrown a crank on anything higher than a .14 diameter mono or flouro. I bet that bait barely wobbles on 20 lb line unless its a 16+ diver. 

If i was throwin expensive baits i still wouldn't compromise action for fear losing a 20 dollar bill on a tree stump. I'll just throw bombers and not worry about it. 

Get a retriever. 





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