# Wade boot recommendations?



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

I've more than realized the useful life of my wading boots. The soles on one have been glued back on twice now and after this morning's wade I see it won't be long until they will need another cleaning and coat of adhesive. I might decide to pitch them and get a new pair. 

Any recommendations? Typical application will be central Ohio streams - mostly silt but occasionally some slippery cobble. I often have to trek a good distance through woods to find the best holes. Would think rubber soles are better for longevity but I'm concerned how they will hold up, or hold me upright, on river rock.


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

I have the Korkers with regular laces. My buddy has the ratchet system... It was good at first, but sand is screwing them up. Maryland won't allow felt soles. It doesn't sound like it will affect you, but I can see more states looking to this rule. Felt is still the best traction for me. Good boots are worth they're price.


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## mountainbikingrn (Mar 24, 2010)

I have had a pair of Simm's Freestones (standard laces) for 3 years and they are like new! Rubber soles with studs and have never slipped on our notorious slate bottoms!


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks for the info. The Korkers look interesting but your experiences give me pause.

As for the Simm's, the image below shows they soles are sewn on as opposed to store brand that look to be glued on only. mountainbikingrn, are yours sewn or glued?


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have the Korkers Devil's Canyon boots with the Boa Lace system. These boots are fantastic, super ankle support that I need and sorely lacked with other boots, they are lightweight and extremely durable. I have not had one issue with the boa lace system and I use them in some light gravel and sandy areas as well, I would recommend these boots to anyone.


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## OnTheFly (Jul 30, 2010)

I have moved back to laces from boa. I just broke a bunch of boa laces and they are a PITA to replace.

I like rubber soles with studs added in, that way if you travel no need to worry about felt regs. I found a good cabelas pair on sale for $99 bucks a bit ago that came with studs. Was a steal and they are as good as the simms g3 guide boots I have (these replaced simms rivertek boa boots I had).


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## Dolomieu (Aug 19, 2008)

Simms Guide G3. They aren't cheap but are leather and stich ed everywhere, not glued. Have had them for 3 and a half seasons, with about 25 Trout trips a year and have held up superbly. Removable studs are a good option.


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## mountainbikingrn (Mar 24, 2010)

RiparianRanger said:


> Thanks for the info. The Korkers look interesting but your experiences give me pause.
> 
> As for the Simm's, the image below shows they soles are sewn on as opposed to store brand that look to be glued on only. mountainbikingrn, are yours sewn or glued?


The rubber soles on my Simm's are completely stitched with Simm's studs screwed in.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Good info. Thanks everyone


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## OnTheFly (Jul 30, 2010)

The Simms G3 guides are super supportive. Have not beat em up too much yet. But have a buddy who has ridden them hard for the past year and half or so and they are still soon great. Really great support on them. 

Highly highly suggest studs if you go all rubber though. Really gives you grip on rocks.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

For those of you with Korker boots has anyone had any issues with the removable soles such as snapping the heel tag or one of the cleats breaking?


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

Not me, they have held up well on both pairs I have owned. If you are going to purchase Korkers, do not buy their lower end boots, pay the additional money and buy the K-5 Bomber or Devils Canyon. I received a pair as a Christmas Gift two years ago and they were the redside boots; they did not last a season and a half. Granted where I fish the terrain is rough on equipment but I never though in my lifetime that a $150 pair of wading boots would not last at least 5 years or more. I contacted Korkers and they made it right giving me full credit for the boots, I paid the difference for the Devil's canyon which was $50, you can see these boots are constructed much better and will last.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Local retailer I've been shopping at doesn't carry those two so I had been looking at the Buckskin model primarily because it has traditional laces. As cool as the ratcheting system looks, I imagine if it breaks I'm SOL for a while. If laces fail a quick trip to the store gets me back in the water. 

Fit and finish on Buckskin in the store seems solid. Are you suggesting anything less than $199 pair of boots is prone to failure? I assumed they were less expensive due to fewer bells and whistles.


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

The K-5 bomber is traditional laces, not the boa system. I can not vouch for the integrity of the Buckskin boots whether or not they will fail. I can tell you this, after my Redside boots failed and when I called customer service at Korkers to discuss the problem, I was told "I am not surprised, the Redside is one of our lower end boots". Both of these cost the same but looking at them on-line and comparing them side by side, it would appear that the Buckskin is heartier in design and made better so hopefully you do not have the results that I did with the Redside boot. You can always purchase on-line if you want to go to the K-5 bomber.


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

OnTheFly is full of it (we go back and forth on this topic quite a bit). He bought a defective line of BOA Boots from Simms and can't bring himself to admit they messed up / cheap'd out on the design (big time). Because after-all, Simms is god 

At any rate I rape boots, rape them. I've never, ever had the first issue with the BOA System on any of the 4 or 5 various pairs of BOA-Based Boots I've owned (And I ratchet those boots down so tight my feet go numb from lack of circulation ) Outside of OnTheFly's Simms junk  i've never personally known anyone who's had an issue, either.

Now, BOA boots are super, SUPER supportive. So the seams tend to wear out a tad faster, depending on the design. But thus far i've had absolutely zero issues with BOA system. I recommend it to everyone.


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

RiparianRanger said:


> For those of you with Korker boots has anyone had any issues with the removable soles such as snapping the heel tag or one of the cleats breaking?


Korkers had all kind of Issues with the removable soles when they first came out (12?) years ago. I think they're on the 4th or 5th generation now; near as I can tell they've ironed out every last little glitch.


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

RiparianRanger said:


> Fit and finish on Buckskin in the store seems solid. Are you suggesting anything less than $199 pair of boots is prone to failure? I assumed they were less expensive due to fewer bells and whistles.


Personally, I won't purchase a pair of Wading boots under $150.


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## zimmerj (Oct 17, 2014)

acklac7 said:


> OnTheFly is full of it (we go back and forth on this topic quite a bit). He bought a defective line of BOA Boots from Simms and can't bring himself to admit they messed up / cheap'd out on the design (big time). Because after-all, Simms is god
> 
> At any rate I rape boots, rape them. I've never, ever had the first issue with the BOA System on any of the 4 or 5 various pairs of BOA-Based Boots I've owned (And I ratchet those boots down so tight my feet go numb from lack of circulation ) Outside of OnTheFly's Simms junk  i've never personally known anyone who's had an issue, either.
> 
> Now, BOA boots are super, SUPER supportive. So the seams tend to wear out a tad faster, depending on the design. But thus far i've had absolutely zero issues with BOA system. I recommend it to everyone.


I've had issues with the Boa system. They have never stayed tight no matter how much I ratchet them down. And have replaced the wires at least twice. Went back to the regular laces.


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

zimmerj said:


> I've had issues with the Boa system. They have never stayed tight no matter how much I ratchet them down. And have replaced the wires at least twice. Went back to the regular laces.


What Brand of Boots? I've had either Cabelas or korkers for the past 5 years and haven' t had the first issue with the Boa system.

In regards to them never staying tight here's a little tip: When you first put them on Rachet them down fairly snug, take about 5-10 steps, then Rachet them down a bit more. Finally take five or ten more steps then crank them down tight - most stable/supportive/comfortable boots you've ever set foot in.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

What's the advantage of boa over regular laces? I tie my regular laces in a double knot and they have no trouble staying tied.


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

RiparianRanger said:


> What's the advantage of boa over regular laces? I tie my regular laces in a double knot and they have no trouble staying tied.


For me it's all about the comfort and *support*. BOA's tighten uniformly throughout the boot, whereas laces can produce pressure points/loose areas, at least in my experience. Also once laces get wet they tend to become sloppy and stretch a bit.

Also, taking them on/off is bliss. Downright bliss. No joke, they go on/off like a pair of slippers. Forget jumping around on one foot trying to get them on / off at the car. Even once they've shrunk / dried out for a month or two, same deal. Bliss.

Seriously, take your waders out to Cabelas and try them on for yourself (I do it all the time out there).

I guess it really all depends on the person, but me, man, I love them damn things


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

And while we're on the subject, I just placed an order for some Alumatrax soles a few minutes ago. Based on what i've read these are worth every.last.penny.

http://www.korkers.com/footwear/soles-accessories/alumatrax.html


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

acklac7 said:


> For me it's all about the comfort and *support*. BOA's tighten uniformly throughout the boot, whereas laces can produce pressure points/loose areas, at least in my experience. Also once laces get wet they tend to become sloppy and stretch a bit.
> 
> Also, taking them on/off is bliss. Downright bliss. No joke, they go on/off like a pair of slippers. Forget jumping around on one foot trying to get them on / off at the car. Even once they've shrunk / dried out for a month or two, same deal. Bliss.


I concur with acklac7 and as I stated early on in this thread, The Korkers Dveil's Canyon boots with the boa system that I have offer the best support and comfort of any boot I have ever owned. The terrain that I wade most often is difficult at best with switchback rocks and it pure torture on your ankles and hell on your equipment. These boots have stood up to the test in both respects, my ankles feel great when I exit the river and the boots look unscathed from the days outing. As acklac7 said, pure bliss on boot removal, you pull that boa dial and the boot slips right off. I have these boots on and off in a fraction of the time that my fishing buddy does with his simms boots. Furthermore, I have never had to tighten them when on the river like I had too with traditional lace boots that loosened up or came untied on the river;I don't miss that at all!


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

flyman01 said:


> I concur with acklac7 and as I stated early on in this thread, The Korkers Dveil's Canyon boots with the boa system that I have offer the best support and comfort of any boot I have ever owned. The terrain that I wade most often is difficult at best with switchback rocks and it pure torture on your ankles and hell on your equipment. These boots have stood up to the test in both respects, my ankles feel great when I exit the river and the boots look unscathed from the days outing. As acklac7 said, pure bliss on boot removal, you pull that boa dial and the boot slips right off. I have these boots on and off in a fraction of the time that my fishing buddy does with his simms boots. Furthermore, I have never had to tighten them when on the river like I had too with traditional lace boots that loosened up or came untied on the river;I don't miss that at all!


Same goes here, the terrain im encountering is damming, knarly stuff. Also important to note I have bad feet / ankles, and have a tendancy to be a bit unstable on my feet while wading, espescially as I get older. Needless to say when I slip / go down I usually go down HARD. Before BOA's I had to exercise a great deal of caution on where I fished and where I crossed because I simply didn't feel safe with any laceable boot. They just didn't give me enought support. I always felt weary of spraining (or breaking) an ankle should I take a seriously wrong step. I don't think twice with BOA boots.

Now, in regards to tightening them, or repeatedly tightening them during an outing. I'll be the first to admit I periodically tighten them down about 5-7 times over the course of 3-4 hours. They don't neccesarily come loose (most people likely wouldn't even notice) but me, I like my boots tight as a cast at all times. And achieving that level of maximum support is as easy as bending over and turning a dial a couple clicks every now and then. Bamn, done.


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## smath (Nov 20, 2013)

Korkers has a new boot out that opens from the back. Looks very cool. I've been wearing Korkers for 4 or 5 seasons now and love them. I've had no trouble with the BOA sytem, which I love, and I have several pairs of soles which I change depending on the conditions. Currently I use the studded rubber soles for both steel and trout. The streams around Cleveland can be slippery as hell because of the clay/mud banks. Studs are essential. Last season I switched to the studded soles on rocky trout streams and now that's all I use.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

OnTheFly said:


> I have moved back to laces from boa. I just broke a bunch of boa laces and they are a PITA to replace.
> 
> I like rubber soles with studs added in, that way if you travel no need to worry about felt regs. I found a good cabelas pair on sale for $99 bucks a bit ago that came with studs. Was a steal and they are as good as the simms g3 guide boots I have (these replaced simms rivertek boa boots I had).


Getting ready to pull the trigger and am leaning toward rubber with metal studs. Still feel like you prefer this setup over all felt for Mid Ohio applications?


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## smath (Nov 20, 2013)

As I posted above, if you're walking around streams with mud/clay banks, felt soles can be treacherous. You need studs for those streams. I switched to the Korkers rubber soles with studs and I now use them for all my fishing -- except when I'm in a boat. Studs are not welcome in a boat or canoe. One final comment, I have the Korkers with the Boa lacing system and I love them. I've had no problems with the Boa system and they make it so much easier to get in and out of my boots. As one of the posters said above, no more hopping around trying to get into or out of your boots. The Korkers open real wide and, for me, they are extremely comfortable.


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## RStock521 (Jul 17, 2008)

RiparianRanger said:


> For those of you with Korker boots has anyone had any issues with the removable soles such as snapping the heel tag or one of the cleats breaking?


I've got Korkers and the heel tag has snapped off of 2 pairs. The first pair, Korker gave me a discount on a replacement pair, and when my second pair had the same problem after 2 years, I decided I'm done with the Korkers. It's probably my fault in how I take them off, but it's second nature to me to use my foot to push against my heel, so these just won't work for me. Another tip for wading boots is to go a couple sizes bigger than your normal shoe. My booties always bunch up when slipping my foot into my boot and cut off my circulation, making my feet freeze in the winter.


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## zimmerj (Oct 17, 2014)

Shoe brand is your choice but I'd stay away from the Boa lacing system. Pain in the butt.


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## OnTheFly (Jul 30, 2010)

RiparianRanger said:


> Getting ready to pull the trigger and am leaning toward rubber with metal studs. Still feel like you prefer this setup over all felt for Mid Ohio applications?


Absolutely


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Well the family surprised me for Father's Day. I received a pair of Korker K5 Bomber. 

Unbelievable ankle support on these things. Haven't tried them in the field but just from walking around the house I can tell I didn't know what I was missing.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

For Korker owners, if you could choose just one sole to buy what would it be?

Similar to all Korkers as I understand it, my K5s came with the standard all-felt and the Kling-on all rubber. Reviews I've read don't lavish praise on Kling-on and I imagine felt is felt regardless of who makes it. On a muddy hillside I'm going to slip. 

I'm looking at rubber plus metal cleats as a good compromise for central Ohio waters. Korker list three such options on their site 1) Vibram studded Idogrip sole with 30 smaller carbide tipped studs, 2) traditional rubber sole with 14 7mm replaceable carbide tipped studs, and 3) Alumatrax which looks like something in Batmans arsenal. Anyone with firsthand experience willing to lend their thoughts?


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## smath (Nov 20, 2013)

RiparianRanger said:


> For Korker owners, if you could choose just one sole to buy what would it be?
> 
> Similar to all Korkers as I understand it, my K5s came with the standard all-felt and the Kling-on all rubber. Reviews I've read don't lavish praise on Kling-on and I imagine felt is felt regardless of who makes it. On a muddy hillside I'm going to slip.
> 
> I'm looking at rubber plus metal cleats as a good compromise for central Ohio waters. Korker list three such options on their site 1) Vibram studded Idogrip sole with 30 smaller carbide tipped studs, 2) traditional rubber sole with 14 7mm replaceable carbide tipped studs, and 3) Alumatrax which looks like something in Batmans arsenal. Anyone with firsthand experience willing to lend their thoughts?


I use the soles with the smaller studs for all stream and river fishing. I have a pair with the larger studs that I've used when conditions are icy. If I were to have only one set of soles I'd get the soles with the smaller carbide studs. I've stopped wearing felt soles altogether.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

smath said:


> I use the soles with the smaller studs for all stream and river fishing. I have a pair with the larger studs that I've used when conditions are icy. If I were to have only one set of soles I'd get the soles with the smaller carbide studs. I've stopped wearing felt soles altogether.


To confirm, those are the Vibram Idogrip soles, right?

http://www.korkers.com/footwear/soles-accessories.html


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## smath (Nov 20, 2013)

I've got the kling-on soles. The Idogrip are more expensive, so presumably, they're better. I've never used them so can't make the comparison.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

The studded Idrogrips arrived today (thanks Backcountry) and boy do they look like a quantum leap forward over the stock Kling-on soles. Makes you wonder why Korkers doesn't just make these the default, at least the non-studded version. The two dimensional photos online do not do them justice. The added depth of the lugs over stock is significant. Add in the carbide tipped studs to cut through moss and these things look like I'm going to get excellent traction in the water. Haven't tried them out yet but am eagerly awaiting their maiden voyage. A couple photos below of the difference between the Vibram Idrogrip and the base Kling-On


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Got out for a brief wade to try these out. Incredible traction. They bite and grab on like a dog on a bone. Almost too much grip. Even with felt bottom you have some slip or glide as you work around rocks. Not these. Feels like you're glued to riverbed and frankly took some getting used to. But damn if you can't stand in the middle of the current with no concerns over slipping. Highly recommend


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

For those of you sporting Korker models with the thick ankle support, how do you store them? More specifically do you bring them inside or leave them in the garage? All my wading gear remains in my garage between uses. With the recent temperature drop into the 50s I noticed the heavily padded ankle area of my Korker boots remained damp from the prior day's wade. This was rarely an issue with my previous pair of cheap thinly insulated boots that dried quickly but it appears the thick construction of the Korkers will require a longer drying time. 

The alternative is of course to bring them inside to a room temperature environment but the missis is hardly going to be pleased with the smell of river emanating from the closet. Setting up a space heater in the garage immediately after use is another option. Just curious what you all do to best maintain the life of your boots.


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

During the warmer months, I just hang them up in my storage unit to dry out between uses. My wife purchased a boot blower from Bass Pro that I use during the winter months to dry them out and it has worked just fine to this point.


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## ejsell (May 3, 2012)

I use a boot dryer also. Got it pretty cheap at Rural King.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Cool. Didn't know they made such a thing. Will check it out


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## ejsell (May 3, 2012)

RiparianRanger said:


> Cool. Didn't know they made such a thing. Will check it out


19.95 at rural king. I got it on sale for $15. I think they run around $40 at sporting goods stores.









Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

You couldn't pay me enough to ever go back to Korkers! Pure junk! Simms or Choate are what you want if plan on doing a lot of walking. Don't have to worry about the soles falling off or all the little pebbles and sand getting underneath the soles! Korkers customer service was a joke as they wouldn't pay for shipping back for repairs not once but 3 times. No thanks ever again!


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## Ipack (Nov 25, 2015)

I've been thru more waders and boots know to man....if your not spending $300 for breathable they will not last . You need 4 layers of material ....the single layer $100-200 . Will go maybe 6 months before the river starts to leak thru....for no reason....boots go with anything that has a good rubber sole , eyelets and solid hook speed lacers. My experience is you get what you pay for .... redington and cabelas boots have been good to me ....stay away from frog togg, caddies, hodgeman .....at least in my experience there junk


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