# Enamels versus Water-based paints...



## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

Which is best? And why?

I prefer enamels. I like how fast they dry upon contact with the bait and most of all, I've found that they are much tougher if the bait gets perforated by hooks or teeth. 

The downside is the fumes and solvents required to work with them. Use must use lacquer thinner to clean the brush between colors and that stuff is just nasty. But if you wear a good respirator, you'll never even get a whiff of any undesirable fumes and you can rock and roll.

Enamels seem to be forgiving as far as how long you have to wait between coats. Thus, you can paint at a bit of a faster clip, which is nice. 

I also use a lot of powdered pearls mixed with automotive clear. Automotive clear (I use SG-100 from House of Kolor) also requires lacquer thinner to clean the brush, so there are not compatibility issues.

Water-based paints have no toxic fumes that I know of. That is a BIG plus. You can paint without a respirator, although its probably best to wear one anyway, but a lot of guys use only an exhaust fan and caution when spraying the water stuff.

Water-based paints provide a different palette. I won't say there are more colors available in water-based paints; they are just different. Enamels and water-based paints both have certain colors that are just beautiful right out of the container, but there are visible difference in the hues from one to the other.

Water-based paints will often dissolve on the bait if the clearcoat is breached by hooks or teeth. The bait will usually be marred, if not ruined. You will think that the paint ran or "blurred" beneath the remaining unharmed portions of the bait, and some of the scale details might disappear, as an example.

That is not particularly important on any bait other than pike or musky baits in my opinion, but it could occur on the other types of bait also because of tackle box friction against the hooks, etc.

I use strictly Createx for the water-based stuff as of now, but I'm going to try some other brands too.

During the painting process, each layer of water-based paints should be "flashed" prior to adding the next layer or color. That is accomplished by passing a heat gun over the freshly painted area to act as a catalyst to the drying process. Not a big deal, but it does slow you down some. 

The water stuff is also known to clog the tip of the gun at times and it does not like high temps all that much either. Painting in the summer months can be problematic unless you've got a paint shop with a temperature-controlled environment.

Clean up with water paints is a breeze. You just shoot some water and/or glass cleaner such as Windex through the gun. I use windshield washer solvent, which is about a buck a gallon at Walmart and it works great. So there is a savings involved over time, because lacquer thinner is a quite a bit more expensive at about $9 to $10 a gallon.

As far as cost for the paint, enamels seem to be more expensive unless you get them off the net. Tigger and I will quickly testify to how pricey it is to buy Testors or any other brand in those little bottles. The price per ounce is vulgar really, but it is very convenient and Testors and Model Master have some truly outstanding colors available and you can mix enamels to come up with a very, very wide range of hues.

Of late, I have been mixing both mediums on just a few baits, and its worked out well so far. I'm careful to clear between the enamels and the water-based stuff with either automotive clear or epoxy before proceeding with one or the other. 

By using both on the same baits, you can get the best of both worlds as far as color goes, but you still run the risk of blurring if the clear coats get breached. But since I'm not building for others, only myself and my friends, I can afford to take that chance for now. I'll post about any problems I might encounter during the upcoming 2008 musky season so that others my benefit from my results, for what its worth.

I will say that the Createx white pearl is my favorite though. I love the overall look of the color, but it is the fussiest stuff to use because it shows every, single, stinking, minor, tiny, little flaw in its path...which makes any bait guy move quickly toward the brink of insanity.

More to follow....

Jump in and give your two cents. All of the above is nothing more than my opinion, and make no mistake, there are no clear-cut right and wrong answers here.


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## musky2much (Mar 30, 2006)

One more paint type to put in the mix is "base coat clear coat" automotive paints. I have been using them for the last year. They spray and act very similar to model master enamels. I get mine from Sherwin Williams Automotive at a very reasonable price. They will mix up small batches, I have bought as little as 4 ounces before. I think the last pint of black was around 12$. The downside is the fumes. But with a booth and respirator I have not noticed any effects from the fumes ... (step, step, drag.... step, step, drag). Seriously need a booth and respirator for this stuff or enamels. 
Cliff

www.alleycatlures.com


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

> But with a booth and respirator I have not noticed any effects from the fumes ... (step, step, drag.... step, step, drag).


Lol, you and I would get along just fine. Same sense of humor. Another parallel, is that I have noticed any negative effects from the fumes either, fumes either, fumes either.

  

Tell me more about the Sherwin Williams connection. I always prefer to buy any kind of supplies locally if I can.


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## Bester (Dec 29, 2007)

Great information. You should sticky this thread.


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## musky2much (Mar 30, 2006)

Here is a link to their automotive store locator... 
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/company/store_locator.cfm

I get it from the one on Main St. in Columbus, but I am sure they all sell the small batches. I have been using their "4th dimension" series.

Also for anyone in the central ohio area, Prizm arts on Polaris Pkwy. in Columbus carries a big selection of Createx Auto-Air.

Cliff

www.alleycatlures.com


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## walleyevision (Aug 4, 2005)

I would have to say as a beginner in this crazy world of lurebuilding, I prefer the water based Createx. Just for simplicity right now. Ready to go right out of the bottle, no need to wory about thinning or adding retarder, which makes it nice. And as VC stated it does clean up really easy, just shoot some windex through it and it cleans up easily. I recomend pouring the windex into the paint cup instead of squirting, squirting puts air bubbles in the cleaner. I use a paasche VL so I take it apart after every color and clean while waiting for paint to dry. I noticed the other day while painting some that when I left the lure under the small reading lamp I was using to light up the paintbooth ( old cabinet ), it accelerated the dry time of the createx. I had the lamp about 4 or 5 inches away from the bait and was ready to shoot the next color almost immediately after getting my airbrush back together, about 5 - 10 miutes.

I have used other water based paints in the past, but not on lures, I tinkered mounting a walleye and a saugeye before I stumbled across this lurebuilding, any way for that I used WASCO water based paint and I will say my experience was better with the createx, that beaing said without a doubt you will get more natural colors with the wasco (taxidermy) paints, but with them I had more tip build up and the pigment seemed to seperate from the water with the wasco in periods when not in use, I have not had this with the createx as of yet.

As far as enamels, I have nothing to offer. I have not tried them yet, I plan to when the weather warms and I can get a little more ventilation in the garage.

Musky2Much, thanks for posting the info as far as Prizm having createx, I usually get mine at Blicks or Hobby Lobby, but I work over by polaris and will have to stop by there to check it out.


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## BBB (Sep 12, 2007)

Have any of you guys tried any of Dupont' product's such as there Hot Hues line? http://pc.dupont.com/HotHues/webengine/hothues/Controller
They have every color you can imagine plus some really cool candy colors. I am a DuPont jobber and could help you guys out if you would like to try it. Our stores are in St. Marys, Wapakoneta and Lima or i could set you up with your local Dupont jobber if you would like. Most colors i could sell by the ounce in the basecoat/clearcoat system. PM me or e-mail @ [email protected]


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## Eriesteamer (Mar 9, 2007)

I do mine too. I use Qdope the paint you use on model airplanes.it has fumes but I am no idiot I do it out side and let wind blow the fumes away from me.plus I use finger nail polish to. both are very well suited for this type use. Last I use Epoxy clear coat to seal the plug.they dry faster then I can paint the second one. in a few hours got all I care to do.and since they dry fast no waiting.it is no easy thing to find this Qdope.but theres other names for it.and at other places where craft stuff sold. back to the Qdope it is not only water proof but gas proof.it hold up best then most you will use.try it and see.


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## fugarwi7 (Sep 20, 2006)

walleyevision said:


> Musky2Much, thanks for posting the info as far as Prizm having createx, I usually get mine at Blicks or Hobby Lobby, but I work over by polaris and will have to stop by there to check it out.





musky2much said:


> Also for anyone in the central ohio area, Prizm arts on Polaris Pkwy. in Columbus carries a big selection of Createx Auto-Air.


FYI - I get almost all of my paint from Prizm and I was in there last week and their Createx Airbrush selection was pretty low at the time...I spoke with Jason there and he said they have to let the stock run low because they have a minimum order size to meet before they will order...call first to see if they restocked before making the trip. They still had a good stock of Auto-Air products however.


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## rjbass (Aug 1, 2007)

Great topic.....two great water based paints that have not been metioned are Wildlife Colors by smith paints and Golden Airbrush Paints. 

http://www.smithpaints.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=53&Itemid=78 This is the website with color charts for Wildlife Colors. This paint works great through my Iwata, no thinning and no build up. You can see there are many realistic colors, definitely worth a try, especially if you are going after a natural look.

Now, Golden Airbrush paint is probably the best waterbased paint I have used. Expensive compared to Createx, but a much better quality of paint. I can spray the black for shading and detail at 15lbs psi and it performs.....Here is a website that has this paint cheapest I can find. http://www.merriartist.com/Golden_Airbrush_Paints_s/460.htm 

Anyway, some options if you are so inclined to experiment.

Rod


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## TIGGER (Jan 17, 2006)

Interesting Rod. Thanks for those links.

Boy after going over Vinces house and seeing the bright colors of the createx. I has me thinking of trying them and some other paints. I still am using those little bottles of Testors from the hobby store! LOL I need to change!

Man alot of great links everyone.


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## Jim45498 (Dec 17, 2007)

I use the waterbase paint because of the breathing effects from enamel and laquer. I think it has a lot to do with what you get used to painting. If I had the proper ventilation I would try the non waterbase paints. I use Createx and some hydro-mist taxidermy paint. The Createx is perfect for what I do. The hydro-mist is something I just tried and I really like the looks of the bass colors. Hydro-mist is a lot thinner than the Createx but both look great and can be used together on the lure.
I never have to wait over a minute between coats. I use a hair dryer to speed up the drying and just start shooting again.
I don't think that I could pick out the lures that have been painted with waterbase or the enamels. When they have the devcon2 on, I can see no difference.


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## fugarwi7 (Sep 20, 2006)

I use Createx exclusively for venting and clean up reasons...I am curious what range of air pressure you guys are using to spray these? It seems if I get below 20 on opaque and 25 on pearl, I get inconsistent spray patterns and consequently find myself overspraying, wiping off and starting over frequently. I do not thin any of the paint. Any tips or suggestions? I use two Iwata gravity feed airbrushes.

I am essentially a beginner so I am looking for help to reduce the amount of do-overs!


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## goolies (Jun 28, 2007)

I prefer the water based also for ease of clean-up. I'm a beginner so take this for what its worth. I have also been using Createx and have been thinning my Createx (mostly pearls) with 1 drop of water per 20 drops of paint. I have an Iwata HP-C Plus with a .3 mm nozzle and have been running my brush at pressures between 15 to 20 psi.


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