# Aluminum- welded or riveted?



## Eye Dr (Mar 23, 2010)

What is everyone’s thoughts on riveted vs welded boats? I’ve had a welded Tracker crack in multiple places. I currently have a Starcraft Superfisherman that is riveted and no problems in the 5yrs I’ve had it. My buddy just discovered multiple cracks on his welded Tracker Targa. He’s looking to replace the boat but doesn’t know if he should go riveted or welded? Thoughts???


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## hatteras1 (Jan 18, 2011)

I'm on my 4th riveted boat and i've only had 1 that ever leaked. My 3rd was rivets and welds.


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Notice that both cracked welds were on trackers. I had a Fisher Spectrum for 10-12 years and beat it to death on erie without any leaks what so ever.
Funny thing, i've been told that Fisher makes the Tracker line of boats.
I have noticed many guys complaining of cracks on they're Trackers'
.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I have an older Tracker (94) and it's riveted. It does leak and it's done so for a long time.
To me it's no big deal, I just turn on the bilge pump when ever I run the OB and I can get the water to run to the back of the boat.
I like the boat a lot and have no plans on replacing it.


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## Eye Dr (Mar 23, 2010)

Yes I realize they were both Trackers, and will never own another one. I guess that’s why people call them “Crackers”. Anybody have any experience with Starwelds?


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

i guess its a preference thing on what brand is your fav, i have an 86 nordic crestliner welded and take my word i beat the crap out of that 17 on erie. very little water , mostly when i smash big waves. the biggest problem is where the rollers sit ( stupid rollers ) found 2 cracks where they sit thats all.. pick your fav and go with it .


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## Whitefin (Sep 4, 2008)

With any aluminum boat the thicker the metal the better. I've got a Crestliner Commander .125" bottom and .90" on the sides. So far its held up well on Erie.


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## dmorgan4 (Oct 8, 2007)

Had a 2006 Monark 1704 welded and now a 2015 Starweld 19. Have had a both on Erie as well as long trips North. No cracked seams or thru hull leakage. Have always had bunk trailers, no rollers. Worked around/with aluminum welding in the aerospace business for several years. Process development and control are important in producing good welds. Of course proper materials and margins play a factor, too. I was skeptical of the welded boats When I bought the first but would consider proven makes were I to replace what I have. Mine did not leak.


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## CANEYEGO (Feb 23, 2014)

Bustedrod alluded to it, from what I know, riveted Aluminum should go on a bunk trailer, NOT a roller trailer. Maybe welded should also? I had a Starcraft 22' CC V5 with Johnson 140 on a bunk trailer. Approx 3000# gross. They designated V5 for a deeper V option on the 22's (late 70's, early 80's). 5 boats later, still my fav trailerboat. 50 gals fuel under floor. Back to the rivets, I kept it in-water docked for some years. Need the $$Aluminum$$ antifouling paint then. Also had an electrolysis issue where some stray current pitted the rivet heads up. Caught it before too much damage, traced through the wiring and thought maybe one accessory wire was reversed, never knew for sure if it was stray voltage from the other boats or? After a couple more seasons, the vinyl floor was beat and a few soft spots, so I took it back to Starcraft in Indiana and they replaced all the rivets, floor, and updated floor and paint color to my choice. At a very reasonable price. Don't know it they do that any more, but I basically had a new boat after that. I Ran that boat hard and loaded in Erie chop for about 12 years, never felt unsafe, never canceled due to waves. She really held up, but the 22 is a much stouter boat than the 21, at least back then.


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## CANEYEGO (Feb 23, 2014)

Starcraft made a 26 in later years, you can find them used. I'm always looking for a steal on one of those. From what I read, the Crestliners have thicker guage hulls than the competition, in the older boats at least.


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## G.lock (Apr 1, 2014)

I've had two Trackers, first a riveted tx17. It had a small leaky rivet, no big deal. I then bought a welded V-18, it cracked.
Wish I had kept the tx17, it was a worry free boat. Small and not that stable with two bigger guys, but it was a fun,cheap boat.


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## man164 (Sep 21, 2014)

I had the same questions when I bought my current boat. I bought a Starweld from Vic's. I asked about buying a welded boat....and was told that they have sent back more riveted boats than welded ones....


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## Eye Dr (Mar 23, 2010)

man164, that’s good to know. I see more Starcraft/Starweld boats on Erie than any other aluminum boat. Welded seems to be what most manufacturers are going to.


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## 40xmax (Jun 10, 2018)

a riveted hull will flex, a welded hull will also flex to some degree, but will eventually break welds...I'll never own a welded hull boat...I've been around metal manufacturing all my live and seen to many things..certified welder ( Huron labs) in aluminum, SS, plate and high pressure pipe..I'll take a riveted hull any ol day over a welded hull..of course this is just my opinion which is worth 2.5 cents on any given day..


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## 1more (Jan 10, 2015)

CANEYEGO said:


> Starcraft made a 26 in later years, you can find them used. I'm always looking for a steal on one of those. From what I read, the Crestliners have thicker guage hulls than the competition, in the older boats at least.


I have a 2000 2050 Crestliner Sportfish welded and no issues on Erie and that’s where she’s been for the last 5yrs!


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## moondog5814 (Apr 8, 2007)

bustedrod said:


> i guess its a preference thing on what brand is your fav, i have an 86 nordic crestliner welded and take my word i beat the crap out of that 17 on erie. very little water , mostly when i smash big waves. the biggest problem is where the rollers sit ( stupid rollers ) found 2 cracks where they sit thats all.. pick your fav and go with it .


Mine is an 88 Nordic Crestliner and it has never leaked a drop. Yeah, I hate those rollers but I have never seen any cracks. I try not to beat it up too much...lol.


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## 40xmax (Jun 10, 2018)

everyone's experience/ milage will differ...what it comes down to is this..the individual(s)responsible for building the hull..welded or riveted..not everyone on the floor during assembly of a hull is on the same page...I prefer to weld alitte hotter than some..if I see undercut I'll roll the amperage down ect ect..if I see a rivet dimple the surrounding material, I'll crank the pressure down or not buck said rivet as hard..it's a matter of the individual experience of working with whatever method/ material being used..not all of us are perfect..I'm hoping that whatever boat is bought, ya'll stay safe..and I'll say this ,buy the best you can afford...now I'm gonna go look at a wrecked Lund Baron...making my head hurt already..


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

I have had an Alumacraft Trophy - riveted - since new in 1999. no complaints here. i guess if you are running on rocks, welded may be better as i guess you could catch a rivet and tear? 

the only aluminum i have personally been in that was leaking was a big welded jonboat. it had tears right at the waterline just to sides of bow from being used as an ice breaker for west tennessee duck fishing. i was told to just put the decoy bags over the tears to keep the splash down and not to worry about it...


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

Passenger jets are riveted...


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

Dovans said:


> Passenger jets are riveted...


one hopes they NEVER run them on the rocks or even beach the plane on the sand bar...


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## EnonEye (Apr 13, 2011)

I've got a sample size of 2 tins, 1 riveted (wear boots), 1 welded (Crestliner) dry, even after rapids running the Maumee, (got my prop, put a couple dimples in the bottom, broke off my skeg, but) no leaks


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

I have learned that quality is a matter of some taking pride in doing the job as best as possible. When a company sells out, the work quality seems to follow. The attitude of "I'm just here for a paycheck "makes for poor quality. Been there,and seen it so many times, it makes me wonder, how the final product holds up. AMF,Brunswick, and a few others are only about the quick buck. And then sell the company. Boats and motorcycles fall into the same category.


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## guppygill (May 8, 2004)

Owned two Crestliners, welded, never leaked or cracked.


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## Seaturd (Apr 14, 2004)

I had a welded Triton DV17 - 4 cracked welds. Bunk trailer and boat wasn't abused. I had them repaired by an expert welder buddy using TIG welding and used the boat 3 more years on Erie with no more issues. I traded it on my riveted Starcraft and wouldn't own another welded boat unless it was a tank-like Hewescraft or similar.


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## 40xmax (Jun 10, 2018)

one other little thing.. (manufacturers of boat hulls) it also depends on the origin of raw material..too many time's I've ordered, let's say 4130 chrome moly tube only to find it was NOT made in the US. only to find it would not weld ( tig ) ..it became brittle, it would blow back & the same with aluminum & other alloys..yup, I could make it look great after spending way to much time on it, only to decide or to test it and toss it in the scrap because it failed miserably..I've talked to many shop owners & machinist & welders that have said the same..its all not created equal..and your local dealer isn't going to be able to tell you the origin of the material used, and its doubtful calling the manufacturers sales staff with questions in this regard will be of any more informative..


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## RollingRock (Jul 31, 2010)

I own a 2005 Monark King 19.6, a Starweld now. The boat has only been on Erie, no cracks or leaks on it


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

moon doggy our crestliners are tanks, but this year im converting the back rollers to bunks, why they put rollers on a tin boat i cant figure . couple years ago launching one day the rachet winch broke and the old gal rolled off the trailer and hit the ground, half way down the ramp.. luckily no fubars. rollers suck and all the welds held no leaky hahah like i said a tank...


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

I got another tank, bustedrod, 1989 196 Seanymph.
I spent last fall epoxying leaky rivots and then spray'n over the epoxy with Flex Seal. I don't know if its going work as i haven't had her out yet. If not, i guess i gotta rip her down and start replacing rivots, a job i dread.
I love the boat and can afford nothing like it. I was getting maybe a gal. and a half to two gals of water after about 4 or 5 hours on the water.

I have new bunks with Slik Sticks on them. I had these on my 16' 8" Fisher and really like them, but they act like rollers and i can't unhook the boat til i get the ass-end in the lake.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

$diesel$ said:


> 1989 196 Seanymph. .... I love the boat and can afford nothing like it. I was getting maybe a gal. and a half to two gals of water after about 4 or 5 hours on the water.


1-2 gallons in 4 hours. bilge pump should easily deal with that water. put a second in as backup and as long as she is not going to break up, enjoy the boat and don't fuss over it...


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

$diesel$ said:


> I was getting *maybe a gal. and a half to two gals of water* after about 4 or 5 hours on the water.


No way I'd tear a boat apart over that. Turn on the bilge pump when you run the outboard and can get all the water to the back of the boat and enjoy your days out fishing.


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

$diesel$ said:


> I spent last fall epoxying leaky rivots and then spray'n over the epoxy with Flex Seal. I don't know if its going work as i haven't had her out yet. If not, i guess i gotta rip her down and start replacing rivots, a job i dread.


Mine is a tracker 1542, I had 4 rivets that were leaking due to hitting some rocks in a shallow area of a small river. It was easy to identify the leaking rivets by pouring some water in the boat while it was up on the trailer. I purchased Aluminum Domed Head Sealing Blind Rivets from Mcmaster-Carr, drilled the bad ones out with a 3/16" bit and with just a very small dab of 3M5200 sealant, popped the new rivets in place and it leaks no more. The process took less than 10 minutes to replace the 4 rivets. I have a 1100 GPH bilge pump on the boat, but not having a leak is better than depending on a pump in my opinion.


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

The issue with having that much water in the boat, is a high moisture level. If you have a way to dry it out, that would be ideal. Like opening up every thing you can on a hot sunny day. Otherwise the moisture will soften or rot any wood exposed. This why a lot of wooden sail boats and other wooden boats have a blower in the bilge area. Maybe place a vent or two somewhere that won't get stepped on.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

JamesF said:


> The issue with having that much water in the boat, is a high moisture level. If you have a way to dry it out, that would be ideal. Like opening up every thing you can on a hot sunny day. Otherwise the moisture will soften or rot any wood exposed. This why a lot of wooden sail boats and other wooden boats have a blower in the bilge area. Maybe place a vent or two somewhere that won't get stepped on.


aluminum boats typically have aluminum stringers. perhaps if has a wood deck could be an issue but likely not as they should have used a water resistant plywood (there is a difference between marine, water resistant, outdoor, etc). a typical boat sitting in a marina has 1-4" of water sitting in the bilge. the bilge pump can not ever get completely dry. i do not think all those boats sitting in the marina are rotting away that quickly...


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Thanks for the advice, guys, maybe i will just leave it to the bilge.
Usually, for me, anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. The bilge does handle it ok, it just makes me nervous. For an 89, the boat is in very good shape. She handles the water very well and it's very roomy.
I've had a few other problems with it last year and i guess i'm a little gun shy. Just bought it fall of 2018.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

$diesel$ said:


> Thanks for the advice, guys, maybe i will just leave it to the bilge.
> Usually, for me, anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. The bilge does handle it ok, it just makes me nervous. For an 89, the boat is in very good shape. She handles the water very well and it's very roomy.
> I've had a few other problems with it last year and i guess i'm a little gun shy. Just bought it fall of 2018.


just add a 2nd bilge with new wiring for that one.

check plastic of pumps, hoses, and through-hulls each season. This is why --- on my 98 Alumacraft, the plastic rotted out of the bilge (10-years, indoor stored) and livewell pumps and even the through-hull intake for livewell. i noticed as i was taking on water for first time ever (first time bilge pumps ever put out water on that boat). traced it to the livewell intake pipe broke so had 1" diameter hole into boat below waterline. as i was repairing that line, i grabbed the bilge pump and it broke into pieces in my hand as plastic became brittle. think it is just plastic age deterioration... as boat stored indoors and pumps are under deck and out of sunlight while running.


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## Jim white (Feb 19, 2018)

flyman01 said:


> Mine is a tracker 1542, I had 4 rivets that were leaking due to hitting some rocks in a shallow area of a small river. It was easy to identify the leaking rivets by pouring some water in the boat while it was up on the trailer. I purchased Aluminum Domed Head Sealing Blind Rivets from Mcmaster-Carr, drilled the bad ones out with a 3/16" bit and with just a very small dab of 3M5200 sealant, popped the new rivets in place and it leaks no more. The process took less than 10 minutes to replace the 4 rivets. I have a 1100 GPH bilge pump on the boat, but not having a leak is better than depending on a pump in my opinion.
> 
> View attachment 339197


Those pods on the rear of your boat help much do they


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

Jim white said:


> Those pods on the rear of your boat help much do they


They make a huge difference. That 25hp four stroke weighs about 190 lbs and before I installed them with me sitting on the rear of that boat operating, between the motor and me there was close to 400 lbs total back there. When I would come of plane quickly, would have some water come over the transom due to the amount of weight in the back and at times with another person in the boat, would struggle to get on plane. I do not have either of those issues anymore, I have had three in the boat and it gets up on plane rather easily and when I cut the throttle, does not tilt backward and no water comes over the transom now.


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## Jim white (Feb 19, 2018)

Nice I may have to look into them. They don't get in the way of the motor do they


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

Jim white said:


> Nice I may have to look into them. They don't get in the way of the motor do they


Not at all. Just make sure you purchase the correct size, I had to buy the small pods that fit a my 42" wide bottom. Here is the chart to determine the size required, I purchased mine off Amazon.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

flyman01 said:


> Mine is a tracker 1542, I had 4 rivets that were leaking due to hitting some rocks in a shallow area of a small river. It was easy to identify the leaking rivets by pouring some water in the boat while it was up on the trailer. I purchased Aluminum Domed Head Sealing Blind Rivets from Mcmaster-Carr, drilled the bad ones out with a 3/16" bit and with just a very small dab of 3M5200 sealant, popped the new rivets in place and it leaks no more. The process took less than 10 minutes to replace the 4 rivets. I have a 1100 GPH bilge pump on the boat, but not having a leak is better than depending on a pump in my opinion.
> 
> View attachment 339197


are you using that for fly fishing on rivers? i see the jet and two stands on the boat. i am looking at adding something similar to my fleet but had not considered the stands. Lund and SeaArk make a couple jet specific boats in 17-20' lengths that look rather interesting. i am looking at the center console models that put the helm station to the front of the boat so have larger deck space at rear of boat for casting too.


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

Rivers, reservoirs and Lakes primarily in TN. I made this boat very modular in design, what you see in the image that I posted is for when I take people out sight casting for Gar or Carp. The person fishing is up front on the casting platform, I am up on the sighting poling stand and can operate the trolling motor via the remote co-pilot or when in real shallow areas like grassy flats and sloughs, I use the push pole. When otherwise fishing, the poling stand and casting platforms come out in less than 5 minutes and I install grab/lean rails for two people to fish at the same one from the front deck the other from the rear deck while I operate the boat from the middle via the co-pilot. In the wintertime such as now and fishing the reservoirs finesse or dimiki style, I have a depth finder transducer that slips into a pole and locks into the bow of the ship so I can use my sonar/fish finder while controlling the boat via the co-pilot from the center of the boat and keeping the two people on fish. In cases of swifter currents in tail water fisheries such as the Hiwassee, the trolling motor comes off via two bolts and a I have a anchor system that goes over the trolling motor mount and locks into place. I motor with the jet to the places we are going to fish, anchor down and one fishes from the front deck, the other from the rear deck. 

The overall modular design has worked great so far allowing me to do a variety of venues and get to places many others in boats are unable too. Here are some additional pics of the boat.


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## flyman01 (Jan 23, 2013)

And yes, mainly for fly fishing however as mentioned, take people out for small and largemouth along with stripers using bait casting equipment......I am not too picky when it comes down to making a buck.


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## Eye Dr (Mar 23, 2010)

Great info. Thanks


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## Wannago (May 4, 2011)

Eye Dr said:


> What is everyone’s thoughts on riveted vs welded boats? I’ve had a welded Tracker crack in multiple places. I currently have a Starcraft Superfisherman that is riveted and no problems in the 5yrs I’ve had it. My buddy just discovered multiple cracks on his welded Tracker Targa. He’s looking to replace the boat but doesn’t know if he should go riveted or welded? Thoughts???


Spectrum Pro 190 all welded aluminum. bought new in 1995. Never leaked until last year. Broke a rib which may have been when a forklift lifted off the trailer or when dropped from a wave too hard. Loved the boat and for 25 years handled Erie, Ontario, Michigan and inland waters. 

only leak ever had was from the rib leak. Went to a larger boat and new owner was a former boat builder and new how to fix. 

loved it and would look at welded again.


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## Wilddav (Apr 22, 2008)

I have a 2001 18' crestliner 150hp... awesome welded boat.. dry as dust.
always have had it on a bunk trailer roller trailers in either case cause stress cracks over time. Getting ready to sell it for a ranger for the better ride in the Erie chop. Aluminum boats are just a little lite for the 1 to 2' waves.


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

Aluminum needs to move and flex, I'll take rivets.


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## Deer hunter 1 (Sep 20, 2016)

I have a 2000 crestliner fish hawk with a welded hall and has always treated me well no cracks and a strong boat. Its actually currently for sale in the marketplace if anyone is interested.


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## fishdealer04 (Aug 27, 2006)

I owned a Crestliner Sport Angler 1650 welded and that boat was always dry. Never had any issues with it. Moved up to a Starcraft STX 2050 which is riveted. Boat was always dry until I had it on some rocks. Popped some rivets and she would take water on. Got it fixed by Starcraft and it has been bone dry again.

I know of 4 Trackers that have had major cracked welds in them (all 4 were friends for mine) I will never own a Tracker. I would have no problem with Lund, Crestliner, or Starcraft. I have my eyes on a Hewescraft now though if I do decide to get rid of my STX.


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## Labman1127 (Jul 27, 2012)

Dovans said:


> Passenger jets are riveted...


Correct, Passenger jets are riveted....that’s bc the pressure is so great at 36,000 feet the fuselage severely contracts thus rivets are a better option if you plan for expansion & contraction. This same property that allows for expansion and contraction would lead to water leakage in a boat. 
That being said, I owned a Starweld 20 Pro for 4 years and competitively fished Erie in some horrible conditions in that boat. They are a great choice for an Erie boat if your looking to go an affordable Aluminum boat. 
I also own a Lund Alaskan for my duck boat that’s a riveted boat which is also a great boat. I’m sure if you ask 10 different people then you would receive 10 different answers as to what’s better. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

The big difference is if you have a leaky rivet you can repair it. If you get a crack it's usually in a high stress area and chances of a weld repair are..well...


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## Black swamp hunter79 (Jan 28, 2020)

Eye Dr said:


> What is everyone’s thoughts on riveted vs welded boats? I’ve had a welded Tracker crack in multiple places. I currently have a Starcraft Superfisherman that is riveted and no problems in the 5yrs I’ve had it. My buddy just discovered multiple cracks on his welded Tracker Targa. He’s looking to replace the boat but doesn’t know if he should go riveted or welded? Thoughts???


Prefer a welded but any boat that doesn't leak is usually a good one


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## Black swamp hunter79 (Jan 28, 2020)

Prefer a welded boat. But a boat that doesn't leak is usually a good one to have. So what ever your preference is go with it.


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