# Dive charts for inline weights



## Lucky13 (Apr 23, 2007)

Is there literature somewhere on dive charts for using inline weights?

I'm interested in pulling harnesses behind inline boards and have no clue as to how much line needs to be let out with the differant inline weights.

thanks,

Jim


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## blue dolphin (Jul 18, 2004)

Jim it you buy the precison trolling book 8th edition it has inline weights from 1-3 ounces and snap weights for 50/50 method. this book is invaluable on the water it will help you tremoundsly. Good luck Gary Zart Blue Dolphin


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## seahawk (Aug 1, 2008)

I think it is one of those things that you just get the hang of. The posts here will usually tell you what weight (1,2,or 3) and how far back off the board (30, 40, 50 feet) to get to the level they caught fish in suspended over whatever depth of water. Start there and then look at sonar if you have one and adjust up or down until you get a fish. Then you have your depth. Usually it is less than you would think, as the fish like to strike going up, from what I hear. A one oz will need more line out to achieve depth than a 2 oz, etc. It really isn't rocket science. I have that book and never use it, but then I don't catch that many fish and get seasick if I read on the water.


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

seahawk said:


> I think it is one of those things that you just get the hang of. The posts here will usually tell you what weight (1,2,or 3) and how far back off the board (30, 40, 50 feet) to get to the level they caught fish in suspended over whatever depth of water. Start there and then look at sonar if you have one and adjust up or down until you get a fish. Then you have your depth. Usually it is less than you would think, as the fish like to strike going up, from what I hear. A one oz will need more line out to achieve depth than a 2 oz, etc. It really isn't rocket science. I have that book and never use it, but then I don't catch that many fish and get seasick if I read on the water.


What you are suggesting would only work if the fish are at the same depth when you go out as they were when the other guy caught them. And you still would not know the depth that you were running your baits. From there it is a shot in the dark. Yeah, you may get to them eventually but knowing how to get to anything you are marking on your fishfinder still requires a knowledge of dive charts.

As Gary (blue dolphin) mentioned you will be much better off with the precision trolling book. I don't personally have one as I don't do a lot of trolling in my boat but everyone that I knwo that fishes Erie much at all has the book. They may not have it in the boat with them but if not they usually have a sheet or card made up for the things they use in particular. You will have a hard time getting the exact numbers that Precision Trolling books have from anyone online since it is copyrighted information. Publishing it on here would be considered a no-no.


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## BigDaddy300 (Nov 1, 2004)

seahawk said:


> I think it is one of those things that you just get the hang of. The posts here will usually tell you what weight (1,2,or 3) and how far back off the board (30, 40, 50 feet) to get to the level they caught fish in suspended over whatever depth of water. Start there and then look at sonar if you have one and adjust up or down until you get a fish. Then you have your depth. Usually it is less than you would think, as the fish like to strike going up, from what I hear. A one oz will need more line out to achieve depth than a 2 oz, etc. It really isn't rocket science. I have that book and never use it, but then I don't catch that many fish and get seasick if I read on the water.


You are right that it is not rocket science but it is darn close to it There are many variables involved in where the harness will run. Speed of the boat and the current will be huge factors. The guys that get on the water a lot have much of this down and that is why they always seem to be getting fish when others can't. With that said your system of changing leads will work to find the fish but can take longer. Once you do get bit, repeating that scenario is how to get bit again.


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## cramerk (Aug 3, 2005)

Quick question, does the 8th edition include dive charts for dipsey's jets, and inline weights? I have been reading reviews but these were not inlcuded in the description. Thanks


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## boatnut (Nov 22, 2006)

you can print one out here- http://www.rednekoutfitters.com/ keep in mind this is for 1.5mph. slower you go, deeper they will go , so keep that in mind but good starting point. great weights by the way too.


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## tomb (Oct 9, 2004)

http://www.rednekoutfitters.com/

The chart found on the above site matches precision trolling charts. Keep in mind the chart is only accurate at 1.5 mph going in a straight line. An outside turn/speeding up will make then rise. An inside turn/ slowing down makes them fall. Gary Zart also mentioned a formula for 1 mph at his seminars. A 1oz weight will be half as deep as the lead leangth at that speed.


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## seahawk (Aug 1, 2008)

I know I'm a rookie at this. Too many variables, some that I will never understand with precision: current, speed, waves, line, turns, fish moving up or down, etc.  Between all of them, I would think that no one would really know where the best place would be until they bit, or where their line was exactly at. Through trial and error just duplicate what worked and move on from what didn't fairly quickly. Add to that, you are usually only working the top part of the column with inlines, and then we are talking about an even smaller depth range. For bottom dwellers, I'd probably go to something else. I just need simple solutions, I read all day at my job.


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## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

I don't think those charts are correct, I would grab some pen and paper and start making your own diver chart if I were you, that way you can record bottom depth at whatever speed you may be trolling that day with whatever weight that day and you'll always have it and know it's correct. Once you know where bottom is you can cut that number in half, then you have mid way through the column, cut that number in half then you have 3/4 down. etc. Knowing exactly where bottom is always most important to me then I can adjust from there.


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## BigDaddy300 (Nov 1, 2004)

K gonefishin said:


> I don't think those charts are correct, I would grab some pen and paper and start making your own diver chart if I were you, that way you can record bottom depth at whatever speed you may be trolling that day with whatever weight that day and you'll always have it and know it's correct. Once you know where bottom is you can cut that number in half, then you have mid way through the column, cut that number in half then you have 3/4 down. etc. Knowing exactly where bottom is always most important to me then I can adjust from there.


Kdog and I were thinking the same about those charts. They seem to be a little shallower than what we are actually running. Still learning every trip though


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## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

BigDaddy300 said:


> Kdog and I were thinking the same about those charts. They seem to be a little shallower than what we are actually running. Still learning every trip though


They are shallower


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## duckman (Sep 18, 2004)

Experience tells me no as well ...so let me clarify what I hear you explaining... 

The bottom is your starting reference point

*1 set the boat speed and rig with desired inline weight (more weight will take less line out)
2 adjust the lead back until you find bottom (it is like zeroing out a scale if you don't zero out the scale correctly you may be heavier or lighter than you expected)*

Just for examples sake we will say we let 50ft out *(#2*) to get to bottom at 40 feet of depth

If you want to get to quarter of the water column then take quarter of *#2*
(12 1/2 feet back to get to 10')

If you want to get to half of the water column then take half of *#2*
(25 feet back to get to 20')

If you want to get to half of the water column then take half of *#2*
(37.5 feet back to get to 30')



K gonefishin said:


> I don't think those charts are correct, I would grab some pen and paper and start making your own diver chart if I were you, that way you can record bottom depth at whatever speed you may be trolling that day with whatever weight that day and you'll always have it and know it's correct. Once you know where bottom is you can cut that number in half, then you have mid way through the column, cut that number in half then you have 3/4 down. etc. Knowing exactly where bottom is always most important to me then I can adjust from there.


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## Big Chief (Dec 16, 2005)

I am only a novice compared to many others here. I also believe the charts are shallower also.However, this works well for me.
Fishing 35 fow I start with a 2oz 35 back on one rig, a 3oz 35 back on another. The more rods the more combinations. From there you can dial them in.


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## ERIE REBEL (Jan 28, 2006)

I also agree with Kgone.I think that their chart is Too shallow.But then My weights are banana shaped with chain at both ends and not little fishies.


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## Rednek (Nov 6, 2006)

Guys,

Keep in mind that depth chart is based on 1.5 MPH and will be shallower than what you are used to achieving at slower speeds.

I'm currently working on a depth chart based on 1 MPH but still have more data to gather. From the data that I have acquired on the water, 1 MPH depths are approx 60-70% more depth based on the 1.5 MPH chart.

Example: A 2 oz. inline 60 back at 1.5 MPH is approx. 19 feet deep. At 1 MPH it would be about 31 feet. (19 + 12) Where 12 is 60-70% of 19.

A month ago I was gathering data for 35 FOW at 1 MPH. Here is some of my data for inline weight only. No leader or harness attached.

1 oz. - Could not find bottom with 250 back.
1.5 oz. - 97 back hit bottom.
2 oz. - 68 back hit bottom.


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## BFG (Mar 29, 2006)

Yep..then screw everyone up by letting them know that if their linecounters aren't full with line...the distance could potentially vary by several feet...which on some days can make a big difference. I would suggest filling your spools to the brim (or at least all the same) before you go dragging weights around trying to tick bottom and make your own curve.

Yet another reason to have the same reels, line, weights, etc. etc. on all of your setups. 

I get a few PM's from now and then asking me about running leadcore and such. I know how I like to run it (speed, leader length, distance from the board, etc. etc.) but what I've found is that most have a different methodology, so what works for me might not work for you without some tweaking and vice versa. 

There is absolutely no way you can predict/plan for each and every variable when it comes to this type of fishing. However; I will say that it is those fisherman who efficiently manage the variables that they can control that typically catch fish more consistently than those who do not. 

There was a wicked current a week ago last Thursday out by Sputnik. Had we not been running the downriggers I'm not sure we would have noticed it, but the cable sway said otherwise. We adjusted..and although not a comfortable troll at all (in the trough) we took 15 on the first pass...while many others around us went by without as much as dipping a net...but they were trolling down-wind. Heck..one captain even took it upon himself to yell at us over the radio...

"You guys in that silver tin can need to either troll into the wind or with it...you are screwing us up...(which we were not)"

LOL...we just kept dipping the net...and waved at 'em once we boxed out.


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## RBud1080 (May 14, 2007)

Guys, remember another key vaiable, what you are pulling... For example, a #6 colorado is going to be quite a bit higher in the water column than a #4 colorado or any willow setup. The harder they pull, the higher they ride.


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## seahawk (Aug 1, 2008)

Another variable is that the active fish aren't all exactly in the same depth and may move up or down quickly based on other variables (time of day, cloud cover, state of mind, phases of the moon). Some of these guys are pros or charter captains and to them it is and should be rocket science, but for the average joe who isn't out there for hours every day just get a starting point and grope around until you (sometimes) find the ones that bite.

I'll pull my book out of the boat today, where it has sat unused for almost a year, and put it up in the marketplace for half price this evening. Not sure which one it is -- has waterproof pages and a red clip on one corner.

I do use the charts for dipsys and jets and know generally how deep my cranks run.


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## walleyekid (Sep 8, 2007)

When we first started running harnesses we limited the number of variables. We used all one ounce weights, all #6 colorado blades, all the same reels, trolled only with the wind. Then we started changing one thing at a time - speed, distance back, etc until we figured out what worked. If you have too many variables like running a one ounce, a two ounce, willow blades, colorado blades, etc you will go crazy and might never figure out if it was a change in the depth, the blade, or the speed that made the difference. Some days any one of them might make a big difference in how you do. Once you catch a few fish and get some confidence you can experiment more.


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