# Sticky  "Official" Winterization Thread



## DaleM

Here is a great link for anyone wanting to know what to do to winterize a boat or motor. I know we get lots of questions so I thought I would post this for all to use. 
here is the link and the entire article also;
http://www.walleyecentral.com/winterize2001.shtml

Boat Winterizing


As the leaves begin to turn and the chorus of migrating waterfowl looms ever closer, thoughts turn from lakes and rivers to fields and woods. Before putting the boat away for the season, however, proper winterizing will ensure your rig is ready to go in the spring. There are three general areas that require attention, including the outboard motor and fuel system, boat, and trailer.

Outboard Motor & Fuel System

Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full. 
Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season. 
While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil. Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time. 
With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump. 
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls. 
Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil. 
Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gearcase work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air gives the lower unit lubricant a "milky" appearance, that is often confused with water in the lubricant. 
Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time. 
If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent corrosion and pitting. 
Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, wipe the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification. 
Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owners manual for specific lubrication points. 
Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed. 
Boat

Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage. 
Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures. 
Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary. 
Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off or, better yet, disconnect all connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not, check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as necessary. 
Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for problems or wear. Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering. Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting. 
Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling rodents. 
Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew. 
If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future. 
Check all livewells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system with RV antifreeze. 
If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines. 
Check and tighten all screws throughout the boat. 
If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain. 
If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.

Trailer

Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement. 
Rotate tires and check for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for proper inflation pressure. 
Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace worn or missing parts as needed. 
Inspect the condition of the safety chains and all associated fasteners. Replace worn or missing parts as needed. 
Check the operation/condition of all lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.
· Inspect the winch strap, and replace if worn or torn. 
Inspect all rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten or replace as necessary. 
If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed. 
Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required. 
If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires. 
If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun, that deteriorates rubber compounds over time.

By following these procedures along with specific items in your owners manual, you will be rewarded with a dependable outboard motor. A few dollars in materials and a few hours of your time will not only give you piece of mind about your investment, but can save on major repairs and major headaches come springtime.


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## FishHead

DaleM..Thanks for the tip about...Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures. 
I do all you said every year, but not the trolling motor. It's a Minn Kota 55AT bowmount.. Yes the boat is in my barn.. out of the weather..But no heat. 

Thanks, Bryan P.S Is this a real big deal?? Its kind of a bitch to remove ?


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## DaleM

Moving this back to the top, as winter is getting closer.


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## ezbite

what about the water pump on a 150 merc. i have read in a few mags that say you should change the impeller after 100 hrs. what about the fuel and oil pumps too.


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## DaleM

Fuel and oil pumps should be fine. The water pump/impeller I change mine every 2 years unless I have been in sand or real dirty waters , You can tell when the discharge water isn't as strong or is getting weaker. I have been told for the cost every two years is a cheap insurance. Let me check and I'll let you know how often you should check the pumps.


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## scorpio47474

Very informative thread. I am the first time owner of a boat as of this week. I was just looking for this exact information on the web but thought to myself, "I should scan thru that awesome discussion board OGF for I know that with all that abundant irreplaceable knowledge someone has to have information to a proper link." and BAM look what I found. Now I am not trying to inflate anyones ego for exchange of valuable information such as good fishing spots at C.C. Lake...no not at all. 

Thanks Scott


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## DaleM

Welcome Scott. Yes you'll be surprised what is posted here. Funny thing about this post, I posted it way back and forgot I even did. I got a new boat this year with a motor that will need winterized and thought the same thing as you. One of our members actually reminded me there was one here already. That's the great thing about this site. Most will share information on about anything.


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## marksduramax

DaleM said:


> Here is a great link for anyone wanting to know what to do to winterize a boat or motor. I know we get lots of questions so I thought I would post this for all to use.
> here is the link and the entire article also;
> http://www.walleyecentral.com/winterize2001.shtml
> 
> Boat Winterizing
> 
> 
> As the leaves begin to turn and the chorus of migrating waterfowl looms ever closer, thoughts turn from lakes and rivers to fields and woods. Before putting the boat away for the season, however, proper winterizing will ensure your rig is ready to go in the spring. There are three general areas that require attention, including the outboard motor and fuel system, boat, and trailer.
> 
> Outboard Motor & Fuel System
> 
> Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full.
> Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season.
> While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil. Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time.
> With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump.
> Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls.
> Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil.
> Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gearcase work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air gives the lower unit lubricant a "milky" appearance, that is often confused with water in the lubricant.
> Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time.
> If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent corrosion and pitting.
> Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, wipe the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification.
> Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owners manual for specific lubrication points.
> Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed.
> Boat
> 
> Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage.
> Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.
> Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary.
> Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off or, better yet, disconnect all connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not, check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as necessary.
> Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for problems or wear. Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering. Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting.
> Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling rodents.
> Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.
> If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future.
> Check all livewells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system with RV antifreeze.
> If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines.
> Check and tighten all screws throughout the boat.
> If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain.
> If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.
> 
> Trailer
> 
> Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement.
> Rotate tires and check for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for proper inflation pressure.
> Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.
> Inspect the condition of the safety chains and all associated fasteners. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.
> Check the operation/condition of all lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.
> · Inspect the winch strap, and replace if worn or torn.
> Inspect all rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten or replace as necessary.
> If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed.
> Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required.
> If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires.
> If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun, that deteriorates rubber compounds over time.
> 
> By following these procedures along with specific items in your owners manual, you will be rewarded with a dependable outboard motor. A few dollars in materials and a few hours of your time will not only give you piece of mind about your investment, but can save on major repairs and major headaches come springtime.



Dose any one have pic how to do all this?


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## Dock Time

How about I/O's?


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## elkhtr

FishHead said:


> DaleM..Thanks for the tip about...Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.
> I do all you said every year, but not the trolling motor. It's a Minn Kota 55AT bowmount.. Yes the boat is in my barn.. out of the weather..But no heat.
> 
> Thanks, Bryan P.S Is this a real big deal?? Its kind of a bitch to remove ?


i had the same question. Anyone know if the cold has damaged a trolling motor. mine is in the gargage also.


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## 1catdaddy1

I have the problem solved. I fish year round in the boat,normally ice season is about 5-6 weeks so my boat really doesn't sit,but I do use fuel stabilizer and start the motor once a week and let it run about 5 minutes. I know most don't keep theirs out this long ,just saying what I do. owned my boat 6 years ,never winterized and never a problem,but kept inside also.


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## Runuv

I have a 2001 90 Merc 4stroke- I have always used the Quicksilver 4 stroke oil but the oil is not cheap does any use anything different that would meet the needs of the motor. Also ref to fogging the motor my manual advises not to fog but to put oil into the spark plug holes.
Thanks for any help


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## Gottagofishn

Hope this doesn't screw up the thread. I'm wondering how many people change the impeller. I'm on my third boat and have never changed one. Is it worth the cost?


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## FISHERBALL

Definitely worth the cost, if it fails you either shut off motor or overheat it. They all will wear out so the choice is which situation do you want to change it in. As maintainence, after you were towed in or while you rebuild your powerhead.


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## Gottagofishn

Just changed the impeller....the rubber was wearin thin....whew.......Woulda been a looooooong tow.
Thanks!


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## PAfisherman

Thanks for compiling all this. Very useful.


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## basshunter7

this is a really good thread. im looking at buying my first boat. ive done a lot of fishing in my short life and have always wanted a boat and now i can afford one so this is great to know thanks!


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## fredg53

Dale thx good stuff

Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


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## sisezz73

Back to the top for a friendly reminder and how to.. Hopefully a few weeks out for myself.


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## LmitingOut

so does everyone really take off their trolling motor and fish finders and put in a heated area?


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## Skarfer

LmitingOut said:


> so does everyone really take off their trolling motor and fish finders and put in a heated area?


Abso-freakin-lutely!

The cold will damage the magnets in your trolling motor - actually cause them to break off/away from the casing.......and could possibly ruin your armature. You don't need to put in your basement or whatever - just putting in your garage is good enough. 

Don't ask me how I know this..........but put it this way, I'll be buying a NEW trolling motor before spring. 

as far as the electronics - why not? They aren't that hard to take off......and it's better to be safe than sorry, especially if you store outside or away from your house. I take my electronics out, take the face off my radio out and my sirius radio out. I don't leave anything in the boat that I don't want ruined or stolen.

Doesn't take that long to do and the peace of mind I've got all winter is worth it.


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## Gottagofishn

I have a 1997 Evinrude I need to fog. I pulled the air box off and located what I believe to be the schrader valve. There is a red lever on it in a vertical position. Do I leave the lever in that position while fogging? And do I connect the can after or before the engine is started or does it matter?


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## rizzman

I have a Triton TR-20 with a 200 merc on it, It has been in a heated building all winter. Got bored two weeks ago so decided to change the plugs and lower unit oil. When I drained the lower unit, about 10 oz of water came out and no oil. Must have blown a seal towards the end of last season. 

Point being, if the boat was stored outside or not in heat I would be buying a new lower unit right now. Change or at leased check lower unit at the END OF THE SEASON.


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## Workdog

rizzman said:


> I have a Triton TR-20 with a 200 merc on it, It has been in a heated building all winter. Got bored two weeks ago so decided to change the plugs and lower unit oil. When I drained the lower unit, about 10 oz of water came out and no oil. Must have blown a seal towards the end of last season.
> 
> Point being, if the boat was stored outside or not in heat I would be buying a new lower unit right now. Change or at leased check lower unit at the END OF THE SEASON.


Rizz, when I bought my boat with the original engines, the marina I bought it from insisted that they had changed the impellers in both motors. I used the boat 3 times, then checked the lower unit lubes. One engine poured straight water. I had another marina that I trusted check the gear set in that lower unit, and the gears were shot. I would suggest to you that you have that lower unit's gears checked also. It would suck to break down out in the lake.


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## jmshar

How often should you change the fuel filter on 50HP Mercury 2 stroke?.. Should this be part of the winterization??


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## Greenhead

I winterized my 3.0 mercruiser alpha for the first time last nite. I ran the motor on muffs for a while than flushed it with five gal of antifreeze. I bought the pour type seafoam by accident but slowly poured it into the carb until it stalled. After I disconnected the muffs I poured some more in the carb and turned it over a few more times without allowing it to start. Will I be OK with that type of seafoam and not the spray type? I am going to pull the plugs and spray each cylinder with the spray type also. Am I good? Thanks!


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## bountyhunter

well your half right, but sea foam poured in the carb IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY . its put in the fuel tank and ran threw the carb, if the sea foam is not in the gas its not in the float bowl where things get gummed up.


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## Greenhead

I have stabilizer in the fuel tank. I thought that fogging the carb was to prevent corrosion.


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## bountyhunter

thats a good thing,[gas stabilizer] I use fogging oil ,when I spray into the carbs.sounds like your in good shape,change the oil in the lower unit.


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## moondog5814

Gottagofishn said:


> I have a 1997 Evinrude I need to fog. I pulled the air box off and located what I believe to be the schrader valve. There is a red lever on it in a vertical position. Do I leave the lever in that position while fogging? And do I connect the can after or before the engine is started or does it matter?


Leave the red lever in the run position, like you have it. Hook up the hose from the fogging oil can. Start the motor and spray the crap out of it. It will smoke a lot, but it works really well. I think the valve is there for convenience so you don't have to access your carbs and spray them.


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## meyers9163

So still time but new boat owner with good DYI skills.... I understand the whole winterizing etc. Now my question is how many people store their boats outside all winter? I have a Lund Impact 1850 XS. Been debating what I will do. Inside storage is pricey here. Shrink wrapping it and storing it in my drive is actually cheaper. My question is what are the major hiccups with doing this? If you Winterize the outboard properly and reservice the oil, filter, fuel stabilizer, fog it, drain the lower unit etc as prescribed by the manuals what else are the "got yous" that guys run into for the spring?


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## deand28

I just bought a 1977 Terry ABF has a 90HP evinrude. Any advice?


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## steve87

This is my first time owning a i/o. I would like to fish till ice this year.my question is when fishing in freezing Temps do I need to worry about my i/o freezing up while my kicker is running or on the travel back home? 
P.s it's always stored in a heated garage.


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## bigdamram

steve87 said:


> This is my first time owning a i/o. I would like to fish till ice this year.my question is when fishing in freezing Temps do I need to worry about my i/o freezing up while my kicker is running or on the travel back home?
> P.s it's always stored in a heated garage.


Unless it's sub zero, it would take hours for an inboard to go from operating temp to below 32*. Especially being under cover, it would keep itself pretty warm for a while


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## steve87

bigdamram said:


> Unless it's sub zero, it would take hours for an inboard to go from operating temp to below 32*. Especially being under cover, it would keep itself pretty warm for a while


Makes sense. I guess I could always start the big motor up every so often to be safe. Thanks for the reply!


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## bigdamram

no problem, just winterized our deck boat yesterday. Stabil, fog it, and filled the block with rv antifreeze. haven't had a problem yet.


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## RiparianRanger

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## linebacker43

This may be a stupid question but I am getting ready to winterize a inboard myself for the first time. From everything I have watched and read. Stablizer, Fog, and anti freeze for the motor. Come spring, do I need to do anything with the antifreeze or is it safe to just run? I'm assuming a non toxic type of antifreeze is needed? Everything I have seen has shown RV antifreeze? Thanks for any feedback!


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## Zulufish

This is an older thread and I did a search on flush mount electronics but didn’t find anything? How are guys dealing with these for winter...a bit more difficult to get in and out?


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## Misdirection

Ive got about $10k in electronics on my boat. They are flushmount and stay in the boat over the winter. My boat is stored indoors, in an unheated building.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk


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## Zulufish

Misdirection said:


> Ive got about $10k in electronics on my boat. They are flushmount and stay in the boat over the winter. My boat is stored indoors, in an unheated building.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk


Always pulled my old graphs out. New boat has dash flush mounted and it is doable but a pain. Has he RIDE system as well and my barn is not heated so I will end up leaving it in next year I guess?


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## mnhovinga

DaleM said:


> Here is a great link for anyone wanting to know what to do to winterize a boat or motor. I know we get lots of questions so I thought I would post this for all to use.
> here is the link and the entire article also;
> Boat Winterizing by David Estensen
> 
> Boat Winterizing
> 
> 
> As the leaves begin to turn and the chorus of migrating waterfowl looms ever closer, thoughts turn from lakes and rivers to fields and woods. Before putting the boat away for the season, however, proper winterizing will ensure your rig is ready to go in the spring. There are three general areas that require attention, including the outboard motor and fuel system, boat, and trailer.
> 
> Outboard Motor & Fuel System
> 
> Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full.
> Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season.
> While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil. Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time.
> With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump.
> Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls.
> Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil.
> Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gearcase work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air gives the lower unit lubricant a "milky" appearance, that is often confused with water in the lubricant.
> Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time.
> If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent corrosion and pitting.
> Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, wipe the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification.
> Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owners manual for specific lubrication points.
> Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed.
> Boat
> 
> Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage.
> Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.
> Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary.
> Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off or, better yet, disconnect all connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not, check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as necessary.
> Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for problems or wear. Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering. Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting.
> Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling rodents.
> Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.
> If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future.
> Check all livewells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system with RV antifreeze.
> If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines.
> Check and tighten all screws throughout the boat.
> If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain.
> If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.
> 
> Trailer
> 
> Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement.
> Rotate tires and check for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for proper inflation pressure.
> Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.
> Inspect the condition of the safety chains and all associated fasteners. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.
> Check the operation/condition of all lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.
> · Inspect the winch strap, and replace if worn or torn.
> Inspect all rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten or replace as necessary.
> If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed.
> Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required.
> If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires.
> If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun, that deteriorates rubber compounds over time.
> 
> By following these procedures along with specific items in your owners manual, you will be rewarded with a dependable outboard motor. A few dollars in materials and a few hours of your time will not only give you piece of mind about your investment, but can save on major repairs and major headaches come springtime.


Didnt even think about the trolling motor, rats, now its 10 degrees outside and I should fix that mistake


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## eye4mee

I plan on fishing lake Erie till Christmas, but have a cold front coming in for 3 days. Would you guys winterize? It looks borderline to me. 4.3 l mercruiser IO. Thanks for your input!









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