# Wiring electronics



## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

The helix comes with 18 awg wire. I need a bigger gauge wire, I'm getting a low voltage alarm. Plan to move the batteries forward Or closer to middle. I'd like to know what you are using to make the connection? I don't want to splice it, because I believe that may be part of the problem. Suggestions are welcome, thank you.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I had to rewire my gen1 Low units. I used 10ga stranded from the battery to the units. It solved all my problems. Good luck.


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

What is the published amperage of the unit and the actual length of wire need to run from the battery to the unit?


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

leeabu said:


> What is the published amperage of the unit and the actual length of wire need to run from the battery to the unit?


Lights ,nav,and 4courtesy .helix 9si maybe 3.5 amps a switch panel, and a bilge pump. Maybe a helix 7 di later.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

use circuit wizard at https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/resources 

also note that for electronics you typically want to wire for no more than a 3% power drop due to draw and distance.

a good splice will not create any problems with the run or power draw.


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

I recommend wiring to your Helix 9 directly to the battery with 14 ga stranded wire with an inline fuse.


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

I just rewired both my Helix units one at consol one at bow. Not more low battery alarms or shutting down when turning on other accessories. I used 10 gauge stranded straight to battery with 3 amp inline fuse for each unit. Even on a fresh charge my graphs would shut down upon starting the engine or turning on livewell, bilge lights etc... Not any more.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

DHower08 said:


> I just rewired both my Helix units one at consol one at bow. Not more low battery alarms or shutting down when turning on other accessories. I used 10 gauge stranded straight to battery with 3 amp inline fuse for each unit. Even on a fresh charge my graphs would shut down upon starting the engine or turning on livewell, bilge lights etc... Not any more.


you were causing the available power to drop below the threshold for your electronics. the shutdown was saving your electronics from damage. this is why typically the allowable drop is only 3% for anything other than motors and such which will draw down that power. even if the draw was only momentary like the starter for your motor.


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

had a similar problem, when i cranked the motor up i watched my voltage drop to 9.3 and my garmins would shut down. heavier wire solved it. the original wiring wasnt able to handle it, even ran a heavier ground.


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

privateer said:


> you were causing the available power to drop below the threshold for your electronics. the shutdown was saving your electronics from damage. this is why typically the allowable drop is only 3% for anything other than motors and such which will draw down that power. even if the draw was only momentary like the starter for your motor.


Yup. And I fixed it by rewiring with heavy enough wire to carry the correct amount of current under load to my graphs. The graphs of today draw way more power than they did 20 years ago


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## Scum_Frog (Apr 3, 2009)

Run all your electronics directly to that box......wont ever have an issue again and if you did you can go right to the problem. Simple and detailed. I will never run a unit directly to a battery.


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## Junebug2320 (Apr 23, 2010)

If you saw the wiring mess on a Seaswirl Striper, you’d vomit. On my “to do” list. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

I just received the blue sea systems 6 fuse block with negative and cover.


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## TRIPLE-J (Sep 18, 2006)

DHower08 said:


> I just rewired both my Helix units one at consol one at bow. Not more low battery alarms or shutting down when turning on other accessories. I used 10 gauge stranded straight to battery with 3 amp inline fuse for each unit. Even on a fresh charge my graphs would shut down upon starting the engine or turning on livewell, bilge lights etc... Not any more.


10 gauge ????? thats good for 30 amps what are you wiring electric downriggers and a windlass or a graph????.... if you have to run 10 gauge wire to your graph to keep it powered up you have more issues in your wiring then just the wire to your graph


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## meyers9163 (Apr 1, 2010)

TRIPLE-J said:


> 10 gauge ????? thats good for 30 amps what are you wiring electric downriggers and a windlass or a graph????.... if you have to run 10 gauge wire to your graph to keep it powered up you have more issues in your wiring then just the wire to your graph


Humminbird recommends 10 gauge for a lot. My Ethernet hub when I was speaking with them yesterday they recommend it for that too. Blew my mind they would recommend it.


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## snagless-1 (Oct 26, 2014)

I agree with Triple-J 30 amps #10 wire? That's what a water heater uses in a house.


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## hatteras1 (Jan 18, 2011)

The wires for an automotive A/C compressor electromagnet uses 18ga and it can run continuous. Unless they're concerned about RFI, and larger wire will keep the heat down.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

may depend on what else plans to run from that line feed. i have 2x 50amp pulls for my electronics and both are fully used on my boat. wire for that run is almost 1/2" diameter to keep power drop less than 3% for electronics. the tinned copper that size is the most expensive wire i have ever purchased...


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## hatteras1 (Jan 18, 2011)

[QUOTE="the tinned copper that size is the most expensive wire i have ever purchased...[/QUOTE]
(A lot of people don't know this, but the auto makers are using GOLD Plated connections.)


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

hatteras1 said:


> [QUOTE="the tinned copper that size is the most expensive wire i have ever purchased...


(A lot of people don't know this, but the auto makers are using GOLD Plated connections.)[/QUOTE]

yup. while the quality of the connector is important too, the issue with copper wire on water is long term slow corrosion will reduce ability to carry current. and the moisture will work its way throughout the wire and not just at the exposed ends. it is important to protect wiring from end to end - always use shrink connections to terminate wires too.


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

There are several types of heat shrink available. Make sure it has an adhesive lining. Once you're done heating it, you should see some of it outside on wire.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

JamesF said:


> There are several types of heat shrink available. Make sure it has an adhesive lining. Once you're done heating it, you should see some of it outside on wire.


you are speaking of the "goo" that oozes out when the shrink is done properly - right? it is typically about a 1/2mm of goo that comes out from under the plastic covering.


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

privateer said:


> you are speaking of the "goo" that oozes out when the shrink is done properly - right? it is typically about a 1/2mm of goo that comes out from under the plastic covering.


Yep.


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