# 9.9 Johnson ideling



## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Its a 1999 9.9 Johnson...the guy rebuilt the carb.pump the primer and gas comes out of carb...I started it up...starts right up but runs 3/4 throttle even if I have it wear it should be at idle...I can bring it back down to idle by adjusting idle but then it dies...I gave it gas started it up.brought it back to a slow enuf idle to shift into fwd gear..wind it up to full throttle in gear.bring the shifter back down into neutral.and it stays at 3/4 throttle till I mess with the ideling screw.it comes down till I think its nice idle...but it dies...so what's the deal....also what's that thing with the red lever in it.it has to wires going into the bottom on it...























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## Mrwiggler (Jan 26, 2017)

I believe that red lever with two wires on the bottom is a electric primer


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

back the bus up lol you prime the system pumping up the ball, if your squeezing and squezin and gas is coming from carb I bet the float is stuck and or not right because the float should cut the fuel when bowel is at right level. that would also explain run away throttle.. a constant supply of fuel because the needle didn't seat and the pump is putting out maybe 4 lbs, example : I have a 90 merc tower of power, the fuel pump bolts on the side of the head that has a port ( hole ) on the intake side of the 2 center cyls behind the carb , it uses the pulses from those 2 cyls to drive the fuel pump diaphragm ….it developed a small hole right there and had a constant supply of fuel goin into the 2 cyls in the middle of the motor gas always leaked out of the center cyls when the pump failed ,


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

That thing with the red lever and two wires coming out is your electric fuel primer solenoid. And in normal run position, the red lever should be turned down in line with the solenoid body. Yours is turned away from the body in bypass mode and is allowing extra fuel to bypass straight into the intake manifold every time you pump your fuel line primer ball. Pump the fuel line primer bulb enough and fuel will run out of the carb throat. Looking at the pic you posted, it looks as though the red lever may not be able to be turned down. If not, turn it all the way to the right(clockwise) and try starting eng. in that position. 

With the ign. key turned on and if you push in on the key, put your hand on that primer solenoid you should hear and feel it click. If it doesn't, it isn't working. This primer solenoid, on a cold eng. and when the key is pushed in, allows a bit more fuel to enter the carbs to help in cold start conditions. Once engine is warm, you shouldn't need to push key in and energize the primer solenoid if all else is working as it should.

Again, from the picture you have posted, the red lever is in the wrong position and needs to be turned in line with the solenoid body.
There are rebuild kits for the solenoid as well.
Here's a vid on the primer solenoid:


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Double post.


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Also in the pic the fast idle screw is not seated meaning the throttle is hanging open. May be a linkage problem as well.
Is the engine running in the pic, Vib-e?
The fast idle screw is not adjusted in either, may be causing it to stall at idle speed when you adjust down.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

No it's not running..just pics for demonstration.lol.thanks guys I'll try putting that lever in the down position.


$diesel$ said:


> Also in the pic the fast idle screw is not seated meaning the throttle is hanging open. May be a linkage problem as well.
> Is the engine running in the pic, Vib-e?


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## hookedonfishing (May 4, 2013)

Part number for rebuild kit sierra 18-7044 16.90 ordered one from napa just had redo mine was leaking motor would not start unless i slighty moved red lever beleive o ring was bad on redlever if you get kit takes maybe 10 mins to replace looking at your your pic if unable to move handle down might need rotate fuel solenoid cap postion doesnt matter generally alligned with all hose fittings on same side if enough play in house looks like can roate to flat point in pic also looking at pics looks like missing a hose on cap so sucking air into solenoid whic would create change in ur fuel pressure cap i changed was on a 70 hp evinrude not sure if solenoid is diffrent on the 9.9 the cap appears be same part number mine has 3 fuel lines one into solenoid body n 2 tiny ones off the cap


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

That's a good call on the two lines coming out of the bolt on cap of the primer solenoid hookedonfishing. 
Looking close at the last pic. of the three vib-e posted, to the right of where the black/white hose plugs into the bolt on cap it looks like another small port. Hard to really tell. 
But if that's the case, that port is open, most likely shouldn't be and being so, will cause all kind of fuel/air running issues. Until those issues are corrected, the eng. never will run right.

If that's the case, there are two issues going on with the primer solenoid that are surely causing problems:

1) the red lever is pointed in the wrong direction for normal operation.
2) there's either a hose missing that goes to that port or that port needs plugged off. 
Most likely a hose that needs plugged in. 

But I don't know for sure the actual hose routing/diagram for that year 9.9 as the primer solenoid I did was on a 60hp and it was a while back.


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

Mrwiggler said:


> I believe that red lever with two wires on the bottom is a electric primer


your mechanic didnt do a very good job getting things back like they should be. 1st I would move the red lever then prime the ball. if it gets hard and no gas coming out then I would try running it. if the bulb don't get hard and gas comes out the needle valve or the float is probably stuck. if all else fails then you need to take it to a good outboard mechanic. it costed me 135.00 each to have my 3 carbs rebuilt at a marina.
sherman


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## 2120Tom (Jul 2, 2008)

Lots of repair info on older OMC 9.9 / 15 models on www.leroysramblings.com


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