# made my 2 part resin lure mold



## st.slippy (Oct 3, 2008)

Well, I started this a while ago, and due to open water and a couple mishaps it just now finished. Just have to wait for wife to be out of the house longe enough for me to try it. There was a video of a guy making senkos with fiberglass resin (liquid stuff, not white stuff). I had a bait that I could no longer buy so I thought I would make them my self.

Supplies: 
1. small baking pan (walmart $0.96)
2. plastic measuring cup (walmart ($0.96)
3. 1 minute gasket sealer- to stick baits to pan
4. spoon -metal (multi pack (walmart $0.96)
5. Fiberglass resin (quart walmart $13 gallon lowes $35.99)
6. reasonable size bolts (mine were 3/8x2in.)
7. Pam cooking spray

easiest just to watch the you tube video so I will give you my trial and error.
Look up fiberglass resin senko mold or look for my earlier thread, where a guy attached it.

I used 16 ounces for each side, so a gallon would actually be necessary. Once I stuck lures to pan with gasket sealer I poured my first coat. Because this is uneven and has a very thin tail I had break the lures to get them out. I sanded down (which was very time consuming and messy) about 1/3 of the bait until the entire tail was exposed. All of this went well. 

I then tried to use the remainder of the quart to finish the mold using vegetable oil and smaller bolts. When I tried to separate the mold, it was nearly impossible, and fractured the top into pieces. The bottom was still in reasonably repair, so I kept it. This time I bought the gallon and bigger bolts, and switched to cooking spray. This made all the difference. The trick with the bolts is to drill down just enough to get them to stand, as they will be your means of separating the mold once it has dried. I drilled holes too big for the bolts initially (being the genius that I am) however these worked great to line the mold up. After you have liberally coated the bottom half with cooking spray including the bolts, and poured the top half and it has dried. Twist each bolt one turn until it pops loose. I did have some fracturing for weakening the mold the first time, but devcon 2 ton epoxy is a wonderful thing. Finally drill the bolt holes through and tighten them all the way down. Then drill your pour holes and use a countersink to widen the pour hole.

Well here are the pics. I fear because of how thin the tail is I will have to drill holes in the tail to prevent air bubbles. Any suggestions from the pros? I will pour some soon and give updates


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## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

Sweet Slippy! Thanks for the info. You'll be in Senko heaven in no time. Can't wait to see your finished goods!
I've been dying to try making some plastic crankbaits with a 2 part mold but haven`t commited myself yet. Hope this thread brings out some more mold guys so I can learn how to cut corners.


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## st.slippy (Oct 3, 2008)

Well here is my first successful pour. Just melted a handful of old twisters. Couple others didn't come out as good. Sorry about grainy pictures


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## Big Joshy (Apr 26, 2004)

hey slippy nice job. now all these steps and processes and different ideas will haunt you in your sleep! Im pretty sure the two part molds that have finer detail require injection equipment to fill in the smaller spaces of the bait. 

WATCH OUT FOR ALL THE BAD FUMES. Alot of nasty stuff you got there!


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## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

Nice! And so it begins...


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## st.slippy (Oct 3, 2008)

I would agree, all that stuff is super stinky. I plan on doing it in open air outside for the most part. My hope is I make a few simple molds. There is a frog I really like, that I will make. The one piece mold will be pretty simple, not too much sanding involved. My brother however wants to make 3" yum dingers, because they are hard to find in stores. Once I add up everything, it is not as cost effective as one might think, unless you are going to make all your own stuff.

How much would a gallon get you as far as small baits? Has anyone used the "green" plastic?


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## "Big" mark the shark (Jan 21, 2010)

That's your first mold and it worked great job.Wish my first and second worked lol.Hope I get to see them in action this spring.


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## -C-IMP (Apr 25, 2008)

Slippy,
I can't tell from the pictures but the mold needs to be vented to allow air to escape when you pour. I would scrape or file a groove across the face of the mold about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the tails. 1/8" wide and 1/16" deep. Then scrape or file a groove to each of the tails 1/32" wide and 1/64" deep.
This may leave a small sting on the tail you can trim but this should help your mold to fill.
If the mold needs more help you may consider giving each cavity a little shot of air from a tire pump after you pour.

Not being critical, just trying to pass on some experience.


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## ironman172 (Apr 12, 2009)

I like making some thing myself, and have ......but have you seen this site for the soft plastic molds....just a thought

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Plastic-Worm-Making-Materials-C20.aspx

or this one

http://shawncollinscustoms.net/


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## TerryMayberry (Dec 23, 2009)

wow steve. I really need to get back on dayshift so I can keep up with all your hobbies. The shape of that plastic you made looks very familiar I was looking on cabelas for them yesterday. I opted to buy some BigJosh swims instead.


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## TIGGER (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job , that is pretty slick! I can't wait to see more.


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## fishslim (Apr 28, 2005)

Nice job Steve looks like you are on your way please make sure you do it in vented area fumes are not good for you at all. Was just talking to a guy i fish with and telling him you had a bait you liked and it was not out there anymore he knew exactly what the bait was then told me to tell you he has bags of them sitting in his basement. lol


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## acklac7 (May 31, 2004)

Big Joshy said:


> WATCH OUT FOR ALL THE BAD FUMES. Alot of nasty stuff you got there!


+ A million, guys be real careful with some of this stuff, lots of NASTY carcinogens in plastics/RTV's/Resins (especially MEK when it comes to resin)



st.slippy said:


> Well here is my first successful pour. *Just melted a handful of old twisters*.


I cannot stress this point enough: DO NOT re-melt store-bought / injection molded plastics! The plastic formulation used with injection molds is different then the formulation used for hand pouring, it is NASTY stuff and is not meant to be re-used/melted.

Keep it up Slippy, that mold reminds me of a few of mine in the beginning, watch out, it might grow on you 

Also I found that RTV was a much better base for molds, I tried resin and while it is a bit cheaper just wasn't satisfied with the results.


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## ironman172 (Apr 12, 2009)

Just found this place for making soft plastic molds....looks good to me

http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/Fishing-Lure-Molds_c_29.html


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