# 3000 rpm and thats it



## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

I have a 87 bayliner trophy omc 3.0.tops out at 10mph at 3000 rpm.engine runs excellent at the wot doesnt bog or skip...it doesnt plane out.seems like i should be getting 4-4500 rpm...i talked to another guy with exact same boat he 4-4500rpm and does 20-25mph.what would cause it to not have 1000 more rpm..i havent checked anything.iv read people rebuitl carb..reppaced fuel pump.didnt solve the issue.points maybe?it aint starving for fuel.runs to good...justblooking for more opinions in this


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## huntindoggie22 (Mar 28, 2008)

Its most likely a prop issue. What prop are you using?


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

did it always run like that or did it just start


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## G.lock (Apr 1, 2014)

bustedrod said:


> did it always run like that or did it just start


Any recent work?
Friend bought a Whaler with a Yamaha 90 that had sat for two years, it behaved much the same. Ran fine to about 3000 rpm then had nothing more. It was old gas. He hooked up a six gallon tank with fresh gas and it ran much better all the way to 5600. Ran a strong mix injection cleaner, it belched a moment of black smoke then evened out and purred. He's had no problems since. He did have to drain and flush the built in tank.
Sea foam was the injection cleaner. Had a old man moment and couldn't remember the name


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## FISHIN 2 (Jun 22, 2005)

I had one that wouldn't get past 2800 -3000 rpms , it was the carb filter, you ever change your fuel pump filter ? Might be a cannister style, filters limit a lot.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

14x13 prop thats on it....i just got the boat last summer.first i had it out was about a month ago.been running like that since day one..it sat for prob 4 years with half tank gas.i topped it off before i docked it at erie this year...not sure when the last tuneup was.i know the engine oil and gear oil is new.cause i did that..as for dist cap wires plugs im not sure of...never changed any fuel filters.


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## humpty dumpty (Nov 30, 2013)

if it was run on ethonal fuel could have plugged up the pickup in the fuel tank or anywhere along the fuel system. as was mentioned.. put a fresh 6 gal tank of fuel on it and try that,, quick way to eliminate the tank. sitting that long a good carb clean would be on my list for sure..,, good luck


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## miked913 (Feb 29, 2008)

Mine did same thing this spring, it would just stop at 3000 rpm and 13-14 mph but still seemed to be running fine. It was a bad fuel line and subsequent dirty fuel filter, start with the easy basics. On my previous boat, I had a 4.3 v6 that I put new plugs in, new fuel pump, fuel filters, dist cap & wires, rebuilt the carb...and finally pulled the fuel line to replace it and there was a spot that I couldn't see but once I pulled the line out looked like a python had eaten a rat! So that is 2 times on 2 boats for me that turned out to be fuel lines that failed and was a very easy fix but 1st time I spent a fortune and wasted valuable fishing time on my learning curve!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Monarch Viper (Sep 26, 2014)

I had that happen last year and the first thing they checked was the fuel, 
that looked good so they changed the cap rotor and plugs and that fixed it.


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

is this right? it sat for about four years ,and you just topped off the old fuel? if thats right you have a tank full of goo. don,t run it any more and clean that stuff out and sea foam the motor,


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## CaneCorsoDad (Jun 11, 2017)

check to make sure distributor is advancing as RPM climbs should have approx. 28 degrees of total advance at 4000 RPM


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Yep...if you dumped fresh fuel on top of a half tank of 4year old fuel, you'll most likely not get her running right until you get rid of all that bad fuel.
For starters, Siphon fuel, change filters and do as bountyhunter suggested. Put some fresh fuel with some Seafoam.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Heres the the deal i baught it from pettys marine in navarre..they said it has been winterized and fuel had additives in it.they had started once a year on muffs.i even asked if the fuel is good.being a marine shop they should know..am i right?they said yes so i topped it off..but no they never changed the fuel filter.once i get back up to the dock im gonna check a few things..


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

vib-E said:


> Heres the the deal i baught it from pettys marine in navarre..they said it has been winterized and fuel had additives in it.they had started once a year on muffs.i even asked if the fuel is good.being a marine shop they should know..am i right?they said yes so i topped it off..but no they never changed the fuel filter.once i get back up to the dock im gonna check a few things..


Not trying to be sarcastic but please ask them what kind of fuel additive keeps fuel fresh for 4 yrs.
After setting four years, there is absolutely no way the fuel that was in that tank is any good. Don't care who told you that.
Besides the fuel itself going bad, one of the worse things you can do is leave any fuel tank half empty. Doing so will cause a lot of condensation build up in the tank. And four years of condensation alone regardless of the fuel being bad is enough to at least drain/flush the tank and change filters.
In an attempt to get as much bad fuel out of the system as possible, I would also clear fuel lines and drain carb. bowl as well.
Did you get any warranty with the boat?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

No warranty.first as stated....ill take a 6gallon fuel tank and run out of that...ill let u guys know how it goes...i just cant see how the engine runs so good.idles nice.runs super at 3000 rpm without a skip...and it being bad fuel..whos taking bets????lol ill find out this weekend.


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## Labman1127 (Jul 27, 2012)

I would recommend dumping an entire can of Sea Foam fuel system cleaner info that 6 gallon tank of fresh gas also (high octane or pure gas is even better).


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Engine Won't Reach Operating RPM. Check

1.	Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel
2.	Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades 
3.	Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test
4.	Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse
5.	Marine growth on hull and outdrive 
6.	Wrong gear ratio in outdrive
7.	Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor) 
8.	Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive
9.	Poor cylinder compression Compression Test
10.	Carburetor defective, or wrong type.
11.	Fuel pump pressure and vacuum
12.	Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed.
13.	Engine Overheating
14.	Engine timing and ignition system operation
15.	Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully.
. things im gonna check


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## cutter2813 (Sep 7, 2015)

vib-E said:


> I have a 87 bayliner trophy omc 3.0.tops out at 10mph at 3000 rpm.engine runs excellent at the wot doesnt bog or skip...it doesnt plane out.seems like i should be getting 4-4500 rpm...i talked to another guy with exact same boat he 4-4500rpm and does 20-25mph.what would cause it to not have 1000 more rpm..i havent checked anything.iv read people rebuitl carb..reppaced fuel pump.didnt solve the issue.points maybe?it aint starving for fuel.runs to good...justblooking for more opinions in this


Had a similar problem on an 87 Mercruiser a few years back. Had to replace ignition coil. As I recall it was a cheap fix - about $45 @ NAPA. I was clued to the problem by an erratic tacometer reading and 3000 rpm was about what i was getting when it should have been 4500.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Good 'check list' .

Glad you put fuel system at the top of the list. You may want to include fuel filters/separators as well.

While your problem could obviously be caused by other issues, from the info you gave about the gas being 4yrs old, again, the fuel system is where I would start.
The very reason in post #12 it states:



fastwater said:


> Yep...if you dumped fresh fuel on top of a half tank of 4year old fuel, you'll most likely not get her running right until you get rid of all that bad fuel.
> *For starters, Siphon fuel, change filters and do as bountyhunter suggested. Put some fresh fuel with some Seafoam.[*/QUOTE]


Good luck with your project.


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## razu (Jun 19, 2006)

I have a 3.0 liter in a Glastron that is heavy 3900#. I bought it from the original owner and barely use the thing some years not at all. (Don't fish out of it) call it the wife's boat lol 
Anyhow I was at about same rpm 3000 and just dealt with it didn't bother me. Then a friend offer me a prop to try. Went from 14x13 to a 14x19 completely different boat and I love cruising it will also pull a skier outta water with no problem. now it will turn 4500 but I don't go over 4000. Old boat. 
I also think it's safe to say that prop could have gotten switched out at Petty's too. There not cheap and people wanna try before they buy. 
Not saying you don't have other issues and I completely agree with all the fuel conversations just passing on my personal experience boat ran great before but wow what a difference that prop made. 
Rusty


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## Farmhand (Jul 11, 2011)

Most likely timing or coil


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## Black Cloud (Jul 11, 2012)

Now you got me thinking about my prop. Maybe I can track one down and try it on mine. I can get 19-21mph. Like to get a little more. Mine is just like vibe.


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## bajuski (Apr 9, 2004)

Being that it's a new to you boat, it would be wise to go thru your whole check list but I would suspect your first initial thought, timing. A retarded engine will start and idle beautifully but will lack power.
My 3.0 turns a 14 5/8 x 17 pitch prop with no problem at but it is lighter than your boat. I have to back off on the throttle as soon as I plane out or else I exceed 4700 rpm, I normally cruise at 3200.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

bajuski said:


> Being that it's a new to you boat, it would be wise to go thru your whole check list but I would suspect your first initial thought, timing. A retarded engine will start and idle beautifully but will lack power.
> My 3.0 turns a 14 5/8 x 17 pitch prop with no problem at but it is lighter than your boat. I have to back off on the throttle as soon as I plane out or else I exceed 4700 rpm, I normally cruise at 3200.


Seems to have plenty of power its like i get to 3000rpm i have more movement on the throttle so i move it all the forward and it does nothing for it.


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Make sure that your tach is accurate. The last 2 I/O's that went through my shop had tachometers that didn't read correctly. Mike


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Specs i found...so its right on with 10mph at 3000 rpm.now to get more rpms.


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## Harry1959 (Mar 17, 2011)

As miked said, I too had a bad, collapsed fuel line cause the same issues. That’s an easy, cheap thing to try. Also agree with FW..... Don’t think you can keep any modern fuel for 4 years, I think fuel stabilizers say are good for a year. Also just from my experience in general, when I’ve had issues with mowers or boat motors, it’s usually a carb or fuel issue. Of course I start with new plugs and make sure I’m getting spark to the plugs if it won’t run at all


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Have you compared your tach to a known, accurate tachometer ? Simply comparing your RPM reading to posted specs in a piece of sales literature isn't ensuring that your tach reads properly. I don't believe the tach in ANY customer's equipment until I have verified the reading with my timing light. You have no way if knowing what your operating RPM really is until you verify that your tach is teading correctly. This gets especially important when you are selecting a prop that gives you the correct WOT rpm. Inp your case, the smaller 153 & 181 cu. in. Chevys are rated @ 4200-4600. As others have stated, a fuel issue is a very likely cause, but compression & timing have to be correct also. Mike


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

A bad coil will do exactly whats happening to yours, have you checked it to eliminate the coil yet?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Havent checked nothing yet...been working...this weekend i will


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Well it aint a fuel issue...thats all the further i got today...new filter.new hose.ran off a tank of new gas..starting simple.lol


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## miked913 (Feb 29, 2008)

Hey you gotta start at the beginning and hope it's easy! Good luck

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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Oh and cleaned the little screen below fuel pump.


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Were your tach readings accurate ? Also curious....what kind of filter is located at the carb inlet ? If is a sintered metal type (not paper or a cleanable trash screen style) THROW IT AWAY ! Holley carbs use the metal type & they can definitely cause fuel restrictions problems. If you have a 2 barrel Rochester it probably doesn't have the metal type but I'd make sure. Mike


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## G.lock (Apr 1, 2014)

Now your getting good fuel to the engine run as heavy a mix of carb/injection cleaner as you can keep running.
Old fuel probably has partially plugged jets/injectors.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

G.lock said:


> Now your getting good fuel to the engine run as heavy a mix of carb/injection cleaner as you can keep running.
> Old fuel probably has partially plugged jets/injectors.


Yep. Cant rule out a fuel issue by JUST doing what has been done. The VERY next thing I would do would be clean/inspect carb. Troubleshooting isnt easy so do the cheap,easy stuff first if you're not gonna have it professionally diagnosed. It's easy to miss little things like, I went on a trip to dale hollow with my father in his bass boat. It ran terrible,bogging,stalling,hard to start. Well,he had overfilled the gas tank and it couldn't breath/vent. Siphoned off a few gallons and ran like a top the rest of the trip. You could have many different issues. Fuel,electrical,etc. Fuel is NOT out of the equation yet just because its "flowing".


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

The first thing I ALWAYS do with any engine that comes into my shop with running quality issues is a spark & compression test. This should be a simple breaker point ignition so 2 spark tests are in order. The spark output from the coils high tension lead should be 1/2', bright blue, strong, & consistent. At the plug wire ends it should be 1/4" & of good quality as well. Compression readings should ideally not deviate more than 10% (15% max). If so, a leak down test would be indicated to see if the rings or valve seats are leaking by, but let's assume the shortblock is in good condition. Vibe has commented about about only achieving a max RPM of 3000 which I'm still questioning (possible inaccurate tachometer reading). Remember, this boat is 'new' to him but a 1987. He also didn't mention trying to slowly close the choke shutter to see if the engine picked up any RPM, which would indicate a lean condition. Obviously, you would do this test in the upper RPM range with the boat under power. These simple tests are where I always start when I have an inboard engine with running quality issues. What kind of shape are the tune-up parts in ? Something as simple as crappy old pitted breaker points can cause poor performance. How are the plugs burning ? A thorough visual inspection should always accompanies the basic spark & compression test. Timing hasn't been verified yet but some basic settings have been mentioned by CaneCorsoDad. More discussion on the ignition side later.... Mike


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Checked tach...its right on..filter in the pump i changed....i been running the boat as is.i dumped 2 cans of sea foam in.i got up too 3200 rpm..it did better as i trolled with it all day on my way in was when it got 3200 rpm about 12mph.i got back and noticed the choke wasnt open all the way so i bent the choke rod so it be open in operating temp allvthe way...i didnt have time to head on the lake today to test it..plus its a tad on the rough side today.....tobe continued on the weekend...(timing and compression is on point)to clarify that...


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Oh and its a holly 2300 2bbl and theres a filter screen on the fuel inlet...i took out and replaced.


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

So do you have the 4 cylinder Ford (2300 ?) & not the 181 cu. in. Chevy ?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

firemanmike2127 said:


> So do you have the 4 cylinder Ford (2300 ?) & not the 181 cu. in. Chevy ?


Im assuming.carb said holly


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Also(even hate to bring this up) but being an old boat,is it all possible you have waterlogged flotation foam and a boat that weighs a lot more than it's supposed to? Just seen/heard it before.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Cajunsaugeye said:


> Also(even hate to bring this up) but being an old boat,is it all possible you have waterlogged flotation foam and a boat that weighs a lot more than it's supposed to? Just seen/heard it before.


Truck trailer boat weighed in at 10680...truck by itself weighs 6300.i didnt do the math....but the boat does float high in the water when sitting.so i kinda ruled the water loggness out of the rpm issue.


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