# Fri Aternoon, Tangy



## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Thought for sure the bite'd be on this afternoon, but not for me. I'm a novice fly-fisherman, so some of it probably was technique! Anyway, I waded upstream 3 or 400 yards starting at the bike path bridge at Olentangy Park (?). It's that little metro park off of Wilson Bridge Rd. I waded up and back down. It took about three hours. I tried Matukas, I think that's what they're called, with black, brown , and red dressing. I then tried clousers, those little bug-eyed flies. I tried two types, black/white, and white/blue sparkly hairs. The only fish I caught were two little rock bass. Those were on the downstream return trip. I caught them both on a brown/black muddler minnow with a light colored head. Water clarity was pretty decent, but the wind was fairly brisk out of the NW. When you're not too good a fly caster, like myself. the wind makes it pretty challenging. All I have now, fly-tacklewise, is a cheap, 6/7 wt. 8' rod. I was reading some of the other posts about higher quality, lighter weight rods. If I can get a little more proficient with my casting, I may invest some money in a better, lighter outfit.


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## Live2Fish (Apr 7, 2004)

Your fly selection sound okay. Maybe presentation? I don't know about anyone else but that area for me is not very productive. I prefer to go further north but from what I have read here the campus area sounds pretty decent.


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## Fishaholic69 (Apr 6, 2007)

caught only one rock bass today at vermillion and almost had me a smallie but missed him... kruggy caught 2 smallies. maybe today wasn't a big day on bites???


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## otis733 (Mar 21, 2008)

a better rod and better line can help improve your casting ability. but there is nothing wrong with staying within a budget. All retail stores have their "own" manufactures of rods the thing about that is someone has to make them, I have been told by an associate that gander mountains guide series is made by St. Croix and they often run old models on clearance so you can get a decent rod pretty cheap and it will help will your casting. Now with good line there really isn't a solution to finding a cheap deal unless you watch Cabela's bargin cave and luckily catch someting in there.


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## Fishaholic69 (Apr 6, 2007)

don't get me wrong. 1st fly rod I got was a 20 dollar martin combo. I caught my share on it. it works and still is in my fishing locker and would reccomend it to starters.. my new tfo is a champ at casting tho. or maybe I am just better now?? should try the martin nowadays. maybe its not the rod. lol. also have to try my new custom 7wt steelhead rod. will use it on smallies and see how it casts.


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## kruggy1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Heres a couple of web site if you dont have already that might save you some $$ it has for me and fishaholic.

www.troutlet.com

www.flyshopcloseouts.com


Hope this helps and good luck this season.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Thanks for the websites kruggy. I'm one of those where the anticipation and aesthetics of fishin' is a big part of the enjoyment. On the "closeouts" website I got the hots for the Sage 4 wt. combo. $332 doesn't seem like "entry level" to me, but I know that's chump-change to those that pay thousands for equipment and multiple thousands for Patagonia safaris etc. The appeal of a long, light-weight rod is alluring, but 9' seems a little too long. What would any, or all of you recommend as a good combination of 3 or 4 wt. to length. I think I'd like something more usable for small creeks, but also effective for larger water. By the way, you guys make this a great site. I'd like to consider fly-tying too, but I know I'm too impatient.


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## Fishaholic69 (Apr 6, 2007)

sage is a very good rod. more of a entry level would be the tfo pro for 188 with orvis reel and line and backing. got me one and the line just flies throught the guides! I was casting like a pro in no time with it. well maybe not a pro but way better than before.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Tried fly-fishing the Tangy again today. This time I tried fishing upstream from the Goodale St. bridge. My intent was to fish all the way to 3rd Ave. (about a half a mile for you non-Columbusites), but the cobble stones proved too difficult to wade very fast. Anyway, caught nothing, not even a tap. I used dark matukas, dark and light clousers, dark muddlers, and light wooly buggers. The water was dirtier and murkier than yesterday up near 270, don't know why. BTW what's the very minimum leader length acceptable for rock-bass and Smallies? With fly changes my leader's been whittled back to about four feet. Maybe that was part of my problem today. As to my fly casting, fishaholic, seems like I'm making about one good cast out of four. I've been watching various videos on the I-net. The most helpful one for me, so far, talked about being sure to stop the rod dead on the fore and back casts and then use an accelerating sweep on the fore and rear strokes rather than snapping or jerking to get the tight loops. Lefty Kreh talks about "unrolling" the line. For some reason that doesn't "click" with me.


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## brhoff (Sep 28, 2006)

Hit up a section north of Worthington early this morning...at least 15 Rock Bass and a couple small Smallies.

Everything came on a Olive Wooly Bugger in size 8...slow drifting through rocks worked just fine.

The Rock Bass were pretty good size...mostly 8-10"...big whoop, but for Rockies, they were big, one was the second biggest I have ever caught and went about 10.5" 

Your leader at about 6-7' should be plenty...4' might be effecting the "natural" drift of your fly. Try going a little longer, add some tippett 2-3X is fine for most everything in the 'tangy that you'll commonly catch.

The Rock Bass and Smallies were all VERY dark and splotchy, I am told this is from wintering, literally buried up under rocks so I suspect the bite is just starting strong. 

Be prepared on the 'tangy to lose plenty of flies and tippetts to the rocks ...it's a must to get to the where the fish are.


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## otis733 (Mar 21, 2008)

My 3wt is 7' and my 4wt is 8'6" i really like the length on both. my 4wt is longer so i can fish bigger waters and get the extra length in my cast. when purchasing your next rod don't worry about getting a combo where a high priced reel is nice it usually ends up being a line holder when fishing for the smaller game fish.


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## kruggy1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Tunafish, a couple things some might not agree with me but save your self more $$ dont worry about buying tapered leader for bass and bluegill fishing.I use standard mono line, 18'' of 10lb tied to 6-7ft 8lb line or sometimes straight 8lb as my whole leader. It works to prove it just go to the thread ''kruggy and me at the v'' by fishaholic and u will see proof.Also look at that temple forks outfitter pro series combo(rod,reel,and line)all spooled up for $188 on that fly shop closeout.I got to test cast one yesterday and its pretty user friendly. Are your flies weighted? That will make a difference in faster water.


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## rweis (Dec 20, 2005)

Tuna - Here's my 3 cents. For rods, check out the TFO Pro Series and Orvis' updated Clearwater II series. Both are under $200. I cast the Orvis 8'6" 2-piece 5wt and it is a sweet stick. My best advise would be to go over to Mad River Outfitters and talk with Brian and the boys. Always cast a rod before you buy it, and they will let you do that. If you can afford it, take a lesson from Brian, he is an excellent teacher. The best rod is the one that fits your style and reals right. I have cast a $150 rod next to a $400 rod next to a $700 rod - the differences, for me, were quite subtle and all would have been just fine.

Reels, the Orvis BBS are very good reels with a very nice drag at around 
$100. 

I do have to disagree with Kruggy on the leader importance. Tapered leaders do make casting easier, BUT you must match the fly-hook size to the end of the leader, the tippet, size. There are charts on-line and on the back of Orvis leaders. Cabelas makes a great tapered leader, 4 for $9, or the boys at MRO can set you up with 3-4 spools of Maxima, $3 spool, and you can tie your own.

Always practice casting with a leader on, and practice whenever you can. Smaller flies are easier to cast, so you may want to downsize to something like Jim's Lil Bugger. Also, food critters are smaller in the Spring. 

It may still be a bit early. I'm heading out this pm hoping the sun has warmed up the SM. I'd head down to the Hocking except for the gas prices. YIKES! See you on the Tangy.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

You know, I thought tippets (they're kind of a sissy-sounding thing, anyway) were just for those delicate, mountain brook-trout presentations with tiny, willowy outfits! But the light bulb just went ON that I wouldn't have to keep shortening up my tapered leaders with fly changes if I used a tippet!.....Duh!! And, on the other hand, because of my reading-articles-and-watching-videos learning method, I just assumed a tapered leader was the only terminal tackle for a fly-rod. I never even considered just using a piece of mono, which, in all reality, probably would work just as well for my quarry, and for my skill level. BTW, I was in Mad River Outfitters yesterday picking up a few flies for my aforementioned, unsuccessful Tangy outing. Everyone there was pleasant and helpful. Anyway, my present gear consists of an 8', 6/7 wt. Berkeley "Cherrywood" rod and a cheap reel with just a clicker, and Sci. Ang. WF6F yellow fly-line. I know the average fly-caster could make the thing do wonders, in fact, even I do, every so often (nice, smoothly rolled-out 40 or 50 foot casts that sometimes go where I AIM them!). I've just got the itch to try something nicer, and lighter, and now I'm in the position to do so. It's the classic "guy thing". I'm now retired, but when I was working (and raising a family) I never felt I could justify spending more for higher quality tackle, especially when I had only a limited amount of time to enjoy it. Now, I do, so I will!! Though, I don't think fly-fishing in Ireland is on the horizon. Thanks for all the helpful input, everyone! Sorry to be so wordy, but I was trying to respond to most of your comments.


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## brhoff (Sep 28, 2006)

You shouldn't have to cast much more than 15-20 feet in the 'tangy...just keep pounding the rocky shorelines...learned that last year from rweis.

Yup, tippett is a must, add a couple feet to the end of your leaders...the leaders will last a lot longer and tippett is inexpensive.

If you have trouble with knots and such, try to catch Jim up at MRO...if he has time and he'll generally make time, he'll show you knots to attach your leaders and tippett material.

I always spend a few bucks in there...free advice is nice but the local shop ALWAYS needs the sales.

Jim will also show you a loop to loop connection if your interested as well, the perfection loop is easy enough to tie.

Straight mono is ok but like most, I think a tapered leader is the way to go with a tippett added. much limper than mono and makes for a more natural drift.

Next time on the 'tangy bring some Hares Ear Nymphs and drift 'em through those rock...keep your casts short...you may be losing fish you don't feel if your pushing for 40-50 foot casts.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

I think I'll be ok on the knots part. I've got that "animated knots" website bookmarked on my Mac. My 40' casts are few and far between! Lately I've been walking mid-stream and casting to weedy bars on one side and rocks on the other (probably kicking all the fish out of my way!). Usually, that's the structural situation. It seems like I have better, longer drifts fishing downstream and it allows for easier roll-casts, but I'm told that's less effective then fishing upstream. What's proper.... Anybody?


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## otis733 (Mar 21, 2008)

For tying your tippet to leader get yourself a tie-fast knot tyer it is a must have tool in your pack. it makes every knot alot faster and easier. i do agree with kruggy in some applications my 3wt is not geared with a tapered leader just tippet.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

otis733 said:


> For tying your tippet to leader get yourself a tie-fast knot tyer it is a must have tool in your pack. it makes every knot alot faster and easier. i do agree with kruggy in some applications my 3wt is not geared with a tapered leader just tippet.


otis733! Thats the SLICKEST damn thing I've ever SEEN! I Googled it and then watched the promotional video. I'm an older guy and one of the bigger challenges is seeing and manipulating the mono while balancing on slippery rocks in the middle of the Olentangy. More than once, when drawing a clinch-knot tight I've jerked the fly into my hand. I'm amazed I haven't heard about it before


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## kruggy1 (Feb 6, 2008)

Just wanted to clear up my comment about using straight leaders,I just use them for bass in gills when pond hoping or throwing streamers for smallies. 
I always carry tapered leaders with me in case I have to throw dries or for trout.I also tie my own tapered leader out of maxima line with a flouracarbon tippet for steelies. But when bass and gills hit your fly soon has it hits the water I just save my tapered leader for other occasions. That just my opinion and what works for me.

I will agree tunafish if you have to use tapered leader get maxima leader line in different sizes and tie your own. Then if any breaks just replace what you need.


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## rweis (Dec 20, 2005)

Pulled the hook into your hand, I thought I heard some screaming on the river. I'm guessing we have all done that. Practice your knots on some old line at home and they will become easier on the water. 

Congrats on the retirement, I have 341 days to go. I started with the same Cherrywood that you have. With it being fiberglass. I'm going to say that it would be considered a "slow" rod, as are most bamboo. I would say that most of us fish with medium-fast action (TFO Pro) or what they are calling "progressive" action (Sage VT2). The fast rods are usually top end in price. Fast rods flex at the tip, while a slow rod flexes the entire length. Again, it comes down to personal preference.

I hit the Tangy this am and the SM are starting to turn on. I got more hits with dark colors. Bless the Rock bass. Tuna - cast toward the rocks. Today they were 1 to 3 feet from shore, but many days I have to land within 2 inches of the rocks to get a hit. The SM were 6" to 11".


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Thanks for the rod clinic, rweis! I use to know some of that stuff related to rods in general (fast and slow), but had forgotten it. I'm thinking I don't want anything longer than an 8 footer, but have to admit it's an uninformed opinion. I think I'd like something even shorter, but I assume you start sacrificing distance. Whatever I get, I want it to work in all situations, because I'm not solely a fly-fisherman. In fact, I'm like a little kid when it comes to watching a bobber! I'm gradually getting better at casting. I've got the roll-cast down good. I was even in situations today where I tried the "double spey" thing. Most of the time the line died prematurely, but it did get out there, just collapsed into the "slinky" thing, but I didn't lose any flies to trees on a backcast. If it hadn't been for the wind I think some of the speys would have looked professional!

I fished downstream from the frisbee golf course below Griggs dam. Compared to the Tangy the water got deep very quickly. Consequently, I couldn't stand off and cast into the shore rocks like I could on the Tangy. I couldn't go more than four feet from the east bank without risking swamping my hip-waders. I only caught two rock-bass down near the railroad bridge, both on a black clouser with red highlights. No luck with small #12 Hare's Ears, or #6 muddlers, light and dark. I tried using little strike indicators. The glare made them hard to see. If I'd have been fishing from the west bank (looking east) they'd have been much more effective in the afternoon light.

Nobody's chimed in on my working upstream or downstream question.....Anybody?

BTW I wish I'd have had that "Tie-Fast" thingy this PM. I thought I had the nail-not memorized...NOT!! I farted around and farted around and finally ended with something about the size of a GOLF-BALL between line and leader. I brought my rod up to the condo when I got home and finally accomplished a proper nail-knot while sitting here in the recliner and logged onto that animated knot website! LOL


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

Yuo need to go fish with someone with a bit of experience and your learning curves will improve dramatically! I had the same thing that day also. It was very slow day but still mange some bluegills but no bass in Southern Ohio Hocking County. so you weren't alone. Patience and keep goping back and locate decent holes as a lot of water is not always productive.


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## otis733 (Mar 21, 2008)

I always try and work my way upstream. i don't like to go down stream fish usually are turned up towards the current to see what is coming so if you go down stream they will most likely see you. move slowly and quietly.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Yeah, I think I knew that, but I was hoping to get some votes the other way. I just had a very pleasant combination of current and good midstream footing the other day, where, while I couldn't walk as fast as the current, just an occasional roll-cast kept the fly right in the prime zone while fishing DOWNSTREAM. I think it was a rare circumstance. I only caught a couple little rock-bass, but every thing was pleasant and easy. I guess I'm just getting old! Plus, that's why I'd like to get a little better at longer casts, so I'd be LATERALLY (cross-stream) farther away from potential fish while moving toward their eyeballs on a downstream wade.


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## Utard (Dec 10, 2006)

If you're fishing clousers, muddlers, matukas or any other kind of streamer the ONLY way to fish them IMO is downstream. That is the only way I fish the tangy any more. Here is my reasoning: 1) You can more effectively cover every inch of fishable water in less time than upstream, where you cover the same water time and time again. 2) It is a nearly impossible to feel the hit you get on a streamer when fishing upstream unless your fishing with less than 6 feet of line out from your tip top. It is impossible to mend effectively to keep a line tight enough to feel the bumps and hits. 3) Most food that you're imitating when fishing rivers like the tangy do not simply dead-drift along with the current. You aren't fishing nymphs and dries here you're fishing big, beefy imitations that can swim upstream if they have to. When you're dead drifting those flies (most of the time anyway) you are not fishing them the way they're meant to be fished. If you want to fish upstream and dead drift your flies, then you better be using some kind of indicator or else making 6 foot casts or else you aren't effectively presenting the fly and you'll miss out on any hits that do actually happen. 
Also, yes fish face upstream most of the time because they're holding their position in the cover they chose to hang out in and they have great eye sight. But if you're casting even 20 or 30 feet downstream, the fish aren't going to see you unless you're the tallest thing on the horizon (which will never happen on the olentangy) or you're wearing hunter-orange and thrashing around like mad man (which should never happen  )

Check your PM for a little downstream swinging tutorial and my recommendations on locations and flies for the Olentangy. 

I fish every day at lunch on Alum Creek (not the res) and have been nailing smallies for a month now. (I'll attach a picture from my phone here just for fun). They're going to be active in the Tangy...I guarentee it. If you don't believe me check out Tom's recent thread about the smallies he and his friends caught up in Northern Ohio. Notice how they're dressed....the air temps (and I'll bet the water temps) were colder than they are now and colder than the Tangy. 
**sorry for the crappy picture--it is from my phone.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

If I get something like that on the "dream 4 wt." I'm thinking about buying, it might break the damn thing! Nice fish. And thanks for renewing my dream of downstream fly-fishing!


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## brhoff (Sep 28, 2006)

I'm with Utard on this one as well...mostly swinging flies downstream, generally casting at about a 45 degree angle up steam and bringing the fly back out through the rocks and letting it swing down through the current...I usually then allow the fly to continue drifting downstream for a while.

A 4wt would be great for this area, I generally use a 3 wt. The lighter weight rods aren't near as fragile as many think.

I'll be hitting either the 'tangy or Scioto Friday AM around 10...give a hollar if you have time to meet up. Don't expect any profound advise or wisdom...I am a bad casting hack that manages to catch a fair share of fish.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Utard PM'd me with some tips regarding stream techniques. With all the help I've gotten from you folks I'll have no excuses for whining about my fishing failures! I might even be able to help someone ELSE out before too long!! Thanks All!

BTW How long is your 3wt., brhoff? I'm struggling in determining rod length, and heck, I might even consider a 3wt. This'll probably be the last rod I'll ever buy, so I'd like it to be versatile for a decent variety of situations. Orvis has a 25&#37; off "trade in" promotion right now, so I'm thinking of splurging a little.


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## brhoff (Sep 28, 2006)

I have a 7' and a 9'.

Prefer the 9', more leverage, more power, less work...punches the wind much better than the 7'...but again, like others have stated...preference and fit are the keys.

Get out, hit up a couple shops if you can and test cast what is in your price range.


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## Live2Fish (Apr 7, 2004)

"Don't expect any profound advise or wisdom...I am a bad casting hack that manages to catch a fair share of fish."  - How many of us does that describe?

Tunafish - If you get the chance, fish with brhoff it is fun for he is a laid back no nonsense angler. I've come across him several times while wading the Olentangy and have taken the time to fish with him.


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## tunafish (May 4, 2008)

Thanks for the "heads up", L2F!


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## otis733 (Mar 21, 2008)

there is an article in the june field and stream about the methods of fishing up stream and down stream i was stating that most of the time i work(wade) up stream.


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## Utard (Dec 10, 2006)

otis733 said:


> there is an article in the june field and stream about the methods of fishing up stream and down stream i was stating that most of the time i work(wade) up stream.



Hopefully you didn't feel like I was taking a shot at your post or stating that you're wrong. I wasn't. 
To each his own and I've just found that working downstream on the Olentangy is WAY more effective for me. Plus most of the time you're fishing dirty bath-colored water anyway and the fish would have to have Superman's x-ray vision to see you 10 feet away!


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## brhoff (Sep 28, 2006)

The biggest Smallie I have EVER caught came when I simply dropped a Lil' Bugger behind a HUGE boulder in the Clearfork and let it follow the flow down.

I had cast upstream to the same rock 4-5 times and couldn't get anything but it simply looked looked like a graphic one would see in a "how to catch smallmouth" book. So I dropped the fly in, thought I had the bottom and finally it rose to hand about 5 minutes later.

Much to do with luck in this sport, I think.


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