# Just the tip



## GarrettMyers (May 16, 2011)

I've thought about starting a thread like this for a long time for the SW Ohio area. There are universal "tips" that can be applied to fishing in general and there are others that may be more applicable to our corner of the state. I've thought about all the knowledge many of us have picked up over the years and how we might all be able to benefit by sharing some it. Every angler has different methods to catch fish. It's always good to get a variety of opinions. If someone gives a "tip" you disagree with, no need to argue- just state what has worked for you. Here are a couple basics to get the ball rolling. Keep in mind, I fish the LMR and GMR on 90%+ of my trips. I fish lakes and the big river the other 10%.

1. If you're newer to river fishing or aren't happy with your rod and reel, there's a setup I always recommend. Get a Pfluger spinning reel. The President model ($60) is a great reel but the Trion ($40) is very good as well if you're looking to save a few bucks. For the rod, I suggest a Bass Pro Graphite ($40). I like a 7'0 Medium Heavy spinning rod. A lot of guys like 6'6 Mediums. I like more backbone in my rod to set the hook and control big fish. My hookup ratio has gone up since I switched to MH. Get that setup and throw on some 8 lb. Trilene XT (Xtra Tough) and you'll be all set. I suggest staying away from Trilene XL (smooth casting), I had a lot of mysterious breakoffs before I switched to XT. I've caught some big flatheads and hybrids with the XT and never had any issues. Thanks to SMBHooker for suggesting that line to me years ago.

2. Use quality jigheads with big hooks. I had many problems with the cheap Wal Mart jigs that are 10 for $2 or so early in my river fishing career. They aren't as sharp or as durable as I like jigs to be. You can use them and you'll catch fish, but you'll also lose fish unnecessarily. Usually, the fish you lose will be the big ones. Don't be scared off by bigger hooks. I've caught 6" bass on big 5/0 hooks. Bigger hooks naturally have a bigger gap between the eye of the hook and the point of the hook. That gap gives you a bigger margin of error to hook a fish. 

3. Use a waterproof phone case that goes around your neck. If you put your phone in your pocket or bag and slip, you're phone will most likely be done for. I've used many different brands, and this is one I HIGHLY recommend. I've swam with my phone around my neck and the phone stays bone dry. They're not expensive either.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Travelon...62587&wl11=online&wl12=22857294&wl13=&veh=sem

Show me your tips!


----------



## GarrettMyers (May 16, 2011)

Use heavier jigheads in fast water. I can't tell you how many times I've seen guys throwing 1/8 oz jigs in raging fast water. In my experience, that's completely pointless cause the lure is sweeping directly over the fish and not getting deep enough for them to bite. You should be able to feel the bottom, but if you're getting snagged a lot, go lighter.


----------



## afishinfool (Feb 1, 2014)

My tip: 
Listen to GM and OSG...just my 2 cents.


----------



## Cat Mangler (Mar 25, 2012)

Love the case Garret, I use one similar by Marineland, but I like the lanyard better than the "rope" that mine have. 

I'm looking for a good 7' MH rod for the President I just bought. My first, haven't caught anything with it yet but loving it. I have it on a GX2, but I hate ugly stix. Not enough feel IMO. Love my 7' M Abu vengeance, but the ceramic eye ring breaks too easy. I'll check out your suggestions.

My tips, fish evey chance you get! Even if it's 20 minutes between meetings in a creek you pass, stop and fish ya never know. 

Second, learn to read the currents. If they're active they will be in or around current, and employing Garrett's suggestions will help you find them. And where there is a current, there is a seam. FISH THIS SEAM(in my Ike voice). 

And when fishing with lures, learn to "feel" your bait. Throw a heavy jig on(expect to lose some) and grind it on the bottom of the river. Try to find any different type of bottom, whether sand, mud, small rocks, large rocks, boulders, just drag them sucker's real slow. It will give you a better idea of the type of structure your fishing even in dirtier water. And it will help you to better tell the difference between a rock "tick" and a fish "tick".


----------



## fishin.accomplished (Apr 4, 2011)

Best piece of advice I can give...Study the BAIT in the water that you fish. If you know where the food is at particular times of year you can EXPECT that there will be fish close by.....


----------



## Aaron2012 (Mar 26, 2014)

Carry a hook sharpener dragging jigs on the bottom will dull your hooks fast. 

Use jigs to see if any roots or hang ups before you use a crankbait or jerk bait.


----------



## garhtr (Jan 12, 2009)

Don't make your first cast a long cast, fish your way into your spot. Nothing irritated my father more than my tendency to sneak up to a spot and make a long cast and then drag a Hooked wiggling fish over dozens of other( now spooked) fish that could've been caught.
This probably applies more to schooling fish like crappie and whitebass or bedding bluegills but can apply to any type of fishing especially in still or clear water.
Good luck and Good Fishing !


----------



## Salmonid (Apr 14, 2004)

pretty obvious tip here but I see folks all the time touting some great cheap hooks, line, terminal tackle or reels they found from some place in China on the web. LOng story short, do NOT scrimp on the very thing between you and the fish of a lifetime on the end of your line, In 40 years of fishing,I have learned a few things to be very true.... the chinese stuff is junk and the cheaper it is, the shorter it will last, splurge on some quality gear, even middle of the road stuff will be fine but stay away from the cheaper stuff. It took me 20 years to learn the value of a quality hook, and another 10 to learn that Ill only ever buy top quality hooks but guess what, every hook is perfect out of the bag, every Hook eye is perfectly sealed, made from quality metals, as sharp as ever, hold there sharpness for a long time and lastly, they hook up more often, then they hold them all the way in... Just my .02.


----------



## GarrettMyers (May 16, 2011)

Before even casting my lure out, I make sure: my line is good, my knot is good and my drag is set. To check my drag, I always pull a little line out with the bail closed. I make sure that there is enough resistance for a solid hookset but not too much where the line could possibly break. I set the hook hard when I feel a fish (unless using a circle hook or other setup that doesn't require that). With smallmouth especially, I jerk my rod to the side to where to tip is just above the water and reel like a madman. As long as you have confidence in your line and knot, the appropriate drag setting will keep your line from breaking. Keeping the rod tip down will keep smallmouth from jumping and coming unbuttoned. Sometimes, they'll kind of kick water across the surface, but usually won't get up at all if you keep tension and get them in ASAP. The longer the battle the better the chance of them getting off. I drag them into very shallow (a couple inches) water to lip them and remove the hook. That way if the hook pops out I can still land them.


----------



## dytmook (May 3, 2015)

I'm far from an expert but here are some things I like to do:
Listen as much as you look. I just feel like using most of my senses things seem to come together better.

Slower is better. I just think it increases your margin for error if you don't rush. Could be I'm just not comfortable with faster retrieves yet, but it seems to work a bit for me.

Find a style you like to base out of. I will now almost always have a soft plastic jerk bait that is weightless tied on a rig. It's my go to. It's like a safety net for me if I'm trying something new with little success. It covers water and is easy to stay slow with is why I like it.


----------



## FishermanMike (Nov 28, 2012)

Nice idea, and solid advice. 

Couple things that have helped me:

Identify a promising stretch on Google Earth, or whatever you use, get in the water/in the woods, and start walking to it. Covering ground is how you find "honey holes" and learn what makes that great spot so special.

Also...I picked this up from Flannel Carp, but I'm sure others do it as well...wade upstream with the kayak in tow behind you. I just use a short piece of rope looped around my body like a sash. Allows you to cruise through unproductive water, haul more gear than you could without it, and you can get back to your car faster if you need to make up time at the end of the day.


----------



## SConner (Mar 3, 2007)

Keep your presentation (regardless what it is) in the strike zone as often and as long as possible. Can't tell you how many times i have seen people change out every 10 casts if they don't get bite and spend most of trip changing lures instead of fishing. Being on a yak or boat negates this advice as you simply pick up another rod.


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Great thread title. For a minute thought we'd be sharing different kind of stories.


----------



## brandonw (Jun 24, 2015)

I still consider myself very much a newb but in the couple years I've fished seriously I've learned a couple things most of you already know I'm sure..

1. Bank fishing, keep your gear to a minimum and as accesible as possible. I used to tote around a shoulder strap tackle bag with gear tailored for all species. It would get heavy and I found I was only using maybe 10-20% of the gear I brought, the rest was just dead weight. All in the last year I've acquired 3 fishing packs from a full backpack, smaller sling pack, and waist wading pack. All these packs are tailored to different fishing excursions from short lunch stints to entire day expeditions. The real purpose though is to only bring what you think you're ACTUALLY going to use. I also have my pliers, line snips, and trout net all readily available on my belt. It frees up my hands and allows me to keep casting while I move and cover more ground much faster.

2. I'm still working on this, but I used to go out fishing with some sort of very vague and general plan but now I like to have a full plan before I hit the water or even picking which gear to bring. This includes a lot of google maps, weather.com, usgs website, etc. I get out on the water and try my best to stick to the plan. I usually do end up straying away from the plan as I get on the water but having a solid idea of what I'm going to be doing and targeting helps me to catch the fish I'm looking for.

I hope some of this makes sense, I'm typing it all up pretty quickly. Keep all of the tips coming. I'm soakin it all up like a sponge.


----------



## garhtr (Jan 12, 2009)

Always take at least a few minutes away from the Fishing to look around and appreciate the other things going on in your surroundings. It's easy to get caught up trying to catch fish and miss things you'll remember long after the memory of a trophy fish fades away.
Watching a sunrise,a mink fish, a hawk or eagle circling in the clouds overhead or even the colors of fall or just listening to the darkness can easily be missed if you're concerned too much with catching and there's way more to Fishing than just catching--- if your lucky.
Good luck and Good Fishing !


----------



## GarrettMyers (May 16, 2011)

Speaking of tips... Buy a rod tip replacement kit and keep that and a lighter with you on the water. I've broken off tips a couple different times and had my trip saved by having them with me.


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

This is a great thread! Any tips for smallmouth river fishing from a kayak? Where to target in the rivers? I usually target water with current and the tailwater behind it and any cut banks but haven't had much luck with structure like log jams and such any tips or other areas to try?


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

always bring a lunch... a PB and J sammich and a can of soda(root beer specifically)..


----------



## garhtr (Jan 12, 2009)

9Left said:


> always bring a lunch... a PB and J sammich and a can of soda(root beer specifucally)..


Coffee !!!! 
Low clear water can sometimes make the fishing pretty tough, I normally deal with it by fishing at night or low light periods and using the most natural looking or even a clear softbait. If that fails I'll normally try something fished extremely fast. A deep diving crank bait fished as fast as possible bouncing off the river bottom has saved the day many times for me.
If the area you're Fishing is rocky remove the front treble and it will snag a lot less, you can't fish it too fast,( once we see some warmer weather) most strikes will come as the lure strikes a rock or even wood and changes directions rapidly.
Good luck and Good Fishing !


----------



## SMBHooker (Jan 3, 2008)

YakFishin said:


> This is a great thread! Any tips for smallmouth river fishing from a kayak? Where to target in the rivers? I usually target water with current and the tailwater behind it and any cut banks but haven't had much luck with structure like log jams and such any tips or other areas to try?


Take one rod out....one lure only as well. A topwater popper. Leave everything else at home, everything. Plan 3 trips like this at the end of spring/beginning of summer, preferably back to back or in the same week. Commit to it like your dating the girl ya intend to marry. Cover several good miles of water each trip in the yak. Throw the popper at EVERYTHING with 2-3 tries in each spot. 

If you're a smallmouth fisherman I promise this will change your life.


----------



## ML1187 (Mar 13, 2012)

Watch someone else who's better at fishing than you are and learn from them. What works and what doesn't. Read and research... be willing to get out of your comfort zone and try something new (which is what I did this year with winter fishing- who knew fishing in the cold could be so fun ?)


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

SMBHooker said:


> Take one rod out....one lure only as well. A topwater popper. Leave everything else at home, everything. Plan 3 trips like this at the end of spring/beginning of summer, preferably back to back or in the same week. Commit to it like your dating the girl ya intend to marry. Cover several good miles of water each trip in the yak. Throw the popper at EVERYTHING with 2-3 tries in each spot.
> 
> If you're a smallmouth fisherman I promise this will change your life.


I could definitely see why this would be a good exercise to figure where each type of lure excels I will have to try that thanks for the tip SMB!


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

9Left said:


> always bring a lunch... a PB and J sammich and a can of soda(root beer specifically)..


PB and J with the crusts cut off Carl?


----------



## yakfishlmr (Aug 9, 2012)

For kayak float trips - any tips for managing the kayak position in moving water? Do you guys use an anchor or anything similar? And how often are you getting out and fishing from shore on a float trip?


----------



## hunter moss (Jan 18, 2017)

If a reel has been sitting in storage for more than 7 months, respool it! Also try to clean reels every so often and make sure they are lubed it, youd be surprised how long the reel will last


----------



## Robert Unversaw (Feb 21, 2017)

What jigs and what to tip them with?


----------



## Aaron2012 (Mar 26, 2014)

Robert Unversaw said:


> What jigs and what to tip them with?


1/8-1/4 oz round head depending on the river flow and 3-5 inch grubs or soft swimbaits.


----------



## brandonw (Jun 24, 2015)

Robert Unversaw said:


> What jigs and what to tip them with?


That's a realllllly generic question. What type of water are you fishing? Fish targeting? Depth? Current? Conditions? Size and type of plastic or bait? etcetc


----------



## tylerd1994 (May 11, 2009)

Aaron2012 said:


> 1/8-1/4 oz round head depending on the river flow and 3-5 inch grubs or soft swimbaits.


Don't be afraid to throw 1/16 as well. I'll throw 1/32 if I can get away with it. Sometimes that's what they really want, especially as it floats down into a seam more naturally.


----------



## Robert Unversaw (Feb 21, 2017)

tylerd1994 said:


> Don't be afraid to throw 1/16 as well. I'll throw 1/32 if I can get away with it. Sometimes that's what they really want, especially as it floats down into a seam more naturally.


fantastic info. Roostertails and micro crank baits such as Rapalas have always been the ticket for me but i've never tried small jigs.


----------



## GarrettMyers (May 16, 2011)

Revised tip: Above, I posted about making sure your drag is loose enough to avoid breaking your line on a big fish. On the flip side, make sure it's tight enough to get a really good hook set. 

Source: Today I lost what would have surely been in the biggest fish of my life. I'm sure it was a flathead. It hit a swimbait about 5 feet off the bank. It was 40-50 yards downstream in about 30 seconds and then it just came unbuttoned. I've caught big hybrids and a couple flatheads in the 20-25 pound range. This was a whole other animal. Ive never tangled with a fish that I couldn't even slow down, let alone actually turn back towards me. I've replayed it in my head all day. The only possible issue was that my drag was a hair loose. In reality, it probably would've come off anyway. As hard as it is for me to accept, fish just come off sometimes. I just would've loved to have seen it. I hadn't lost a big fish for a long time. I was due.


----------



## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

hunter moss said:


> If a reel has been sitting in storage for more than 7 months, respool it! Also try to clean reels every so often and make sure they are lubed it, youd be surprised how long the reel will last


One of the most common reasons for a reel to fail is over doing it on the lube. Maintenance is important, but stick to the manufacturer's recommendations.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Tip: when fishing very clear water, stick to more natural color and profile with your lure selection, and use the lightest line you can get away with .

...when fishing dirty or stained water, step up to the bigger profiles and loud colors.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Tip: no matter what month of the year you are fishing in the river… If you want to catch Saugeye... keep it on the bottom .


----------



## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

Tip-
Your chances of catching fish is 100 times greater on the water than sitting on the couch wondering how the bite is.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

All Eyes said:


> Tip-
> Your chances of catching fish is 100 times greater on the water than sitting on the couch wondering how the bite is.


Lmao


----------



## hunter moss (Jan 18, 2017)

All Eyes said:


> One of the most common reasons for a reel to fail is over doing it on the lube. Maintenance is important, but stick to the manufacturer's recommendations.


i totally agree. I just liked to make sure mine are nice and ready to go. People may think they need to cover the gears in lube when in reality it only takes a drop or two


----------



## Flannel_Carp (Apr 7, 2014)

GarrettMyers said:


> Revised tip: Above, I posted about making sure your drag is loose enough to avoid breaking your line on a big fish. On the flip side, make sure it's tight enough to get a really good hook set.
> 
> Source: Today I lost what would have surely been in the biggest fish of my life. I'm sure it was a flathead. It hit a swimbait about 5 feet off the bank. It was 40-50 yards downstream in about 30 seconds and then it just came unbuttoned. I've caught big hybrids and a couple flatheads in the 20-25 pound range. This was a whole other animal. Ive never tangled with a fish that I couldn't even slow down, let alone actually turn back towards me. I've replayed it in my head all day. The only possible issue was that my drag was a hair loose. In reality, it probably would've come off anyway. As hard as it is for me to accept, fish just come off sometimes. I just would've loved to have seen it. I hadn't lost a big fish for a long time. I was due.


HOUSE has a video of me running 50 yards down stream after a giant hybrid that I couldn't even turn. My pole was doubled over the whole way and then the big swimbait hook just popped out. I feel your pain man!


----------



## tylerd1994 (May 11, 2009)

I pour all of my own jig heads and recently I've switched to sickle hooks. They have a wider gap than a traditional jig hook and feel much sharper. It's really nice for the wider body coomer curly shads.


----------



## SMBHooker (Jan 3, 2008)

Flannel_Carp said:


> HOUSE has a video of me running 50 yards down stream after a giant hybrid that I couldn't even turn. My pole was doubled over the whole way and then the big swimbait hook just popped out. I feel your pain man!


Tip- 

Run faster.


----------



## Bigguy513 (Jun 7, 2015)

Flannel_Carp said:


> HOUSE has a video of me running 50 yards down stream after a giant hybrid that I couldn't even turn. My pole was doubled over the whole way and then the big swimbait hook just popped out. I feel your pain man!


He probably gave you one of his cheap Chinese swimbait hooks he got from his secret website. LMAO... 

That's just part of Hybrid fishing in tight spaces. "PULL AND PRAY!"


----------



## garhtr (Jan 12, 2009)

Keeping a log book is probably a Good Idea. I don't but I wish I had started one when I was younger. Temps and dates would be useful along with water levels and don't forget to add some memories of each trip.
I've kept a duck hunting log over the years it browsing through it always provides info along with many pleasant memories of each day, often small things that would've been long forgotten.
Good luck and Good Fishing !


----------



## tylerd1994 (May 11, 2009)

There is an app in the apple App Store for I think $2 called fish tales. It allows you to take pictures of all your Lures for a "tackle box" then when you catch fish you can log Location with your gps, take a picture, log any detail imaginable and it keeps a tally on what lures you used to catch them. It's pretty sweet !


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

Question, I have recently bought two "suspending" rapala jerk baits (one shallow, one deep diving) but when I get them in the water they rise just like the floating ones do am I doing something wrong or its this lure junk? I have some cheap-o versions of jerk baits from wal-mart that suspend beautifully what gives?


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Brian suspending lures willdefinitely suspend after you retrieve them down a few feet and stop the lure...it should just stop right where it is at and not move.


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

so does it make a difference in shallow or deep water? cause when I check out the action of my lure shallow to see how it performs it rises right up. Not sure how it is performing in deeper waters once I saw that I kinda gave up on it


----------



## garhtr (Jan 12, 2009)

One of the best ways to find good fishing spots on any river is to take a float mid summer when river flows are at their lowest, bring a note book or make notes in your phone of deepest areas, rock piles, dropoffs and even logs stuck in the river bottom that can't be seen at normal flows.
Good luck and Good Fishing !


----------



## Flannel_Carp (Apr 7, 2014)

YakFishin said:


> Question, I have recently bought two "suspending" rapala jerk baits (one shallow, one deep diving) but when I get them in the water they rise just like the floating ones do am I doing something wrong or its this lure junk? I have some cheap-o versions of jerk baits from wal-mart that suspend beautifully what gives?


Are they they Rapala Shadow Rap Shad baits?


----------



## brandonw (Jun 24, 2015)

YakFishin said:


> Question, I have recently bought two "suspending" rapala jerk baits (one shallow, one deep diving) but when I get them in the water they rise just like the floating ones do am I doing something wrong or its this lure junk? I have some cheap-o versions of jerk baits from wal-mart that suspend beautifully what gives?


You may need to add weight to get them to suspend perfectly. I am no expert but I know that few "suspending" lures actually suspend perfectly out of the box. Most need weight added and some actually sink out of the box. For floaters, like the ones you described, try adding storm suspendots or suspenstrips. 

Should also note that lures will float faster/slower/or suspend differently with varying water temps. Don't yell at me if it suspends perfectly in your bathtub but has a very slight float on the water. Tight lines!


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

Rapala Glass Shad Rap 05 Glass Blue Shad and Rapala Husky Jerk


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

brandonw said:


> You may need to add weight to get them to suspend perfectly. I am no expert but I know that few "suspending" lures actually suspend perfectly out of the box. Most need weight added and some actually sink out of the box. For floaters, like the ones you described, try adding storm suspendots or suspenstrips.
> 
> Should also note that lures will float faster/slower/or suspend differently with varying water temps. Don't yell at me if it suspends perfectly in your bathtub but has a very slight float on the water. Tight lines!


that makes sense Brandon I was wondering if water temp made a difference I will start playing around with weight but seems to me it should work out of the box isn't that their job? lol


----------



## nuttycrappie (Apr 14, 2014)

GarrettMyers said:


> I've thought about starting a thread like this for a long time for the SW Ohio area. There are universal "tips" that can be applied to fishing in general and there are others that may be more applicable to our corner of the state. I've thought about all the knowledge many of us have picked up over the years and how we might all be able to benefit by sharing some it. Every angler has different methods to catch fish. It's always good to get a variety of opinions. If someone gives a "tip" you disagree with, no need to argue- just state what has worked for you. Here are a couple basics to get the ball rolling. Keep in mind, I fish the LMR and GMR on 90%+ of my trips. I fish lakes and the big river the other 10%.
> 
> 1. If you're newer to river fishing or aren't happy with your rod and reel, there's a setup I always recommend. Get a Pfluger spinning reel. The President model ($60) is a great reel but the Trion ($40) is very good as well if you're looking to save a few bucks. For the rod, I suggest a Bass Pro Graphite ($40). I like a 7'0 Medium Heavy spinning rod. A lot of guys like 6'6 Mediums. I like more backbone in my rod to set the hook and control big fish. My hookup ratio has gone up since I switched to MH. Get that setup and throw on some 8 lb. Trilene XT (Xtra Tough) and you'll be all set. I suggest staying away from Trilene XL (smooth casting), I had a lot of mysterious breakoffs before I switched to XT. I've caught some big flatheads and hybrids with the XT and never had any issues. Thanks to SMBHooker for suggesting that line to me years ago.
> 
> ...


thank you for sharing your info on rig setup and the phone case.its nice when people like yourself are generous with your info.


----------



## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

When in doubt, use white.


----------



## Mean Morone (Apr 12, 2004)

fallen513 said:


> When in doubt, use white.


----------



## Mean Morone (Apr 12, 2004)

I'm going to miss that spot Seth.


----------



## Mean Morone (Apr 12, 2004)

As far as suspending baits, it is all about the water temp. I used to have a tank at my shop. I could get a crank bait to have neutral buoyancy at say 55 deg. The bait would hold perfectly still neither sinking or floating. As I would add warmer water to the tank, the lure would slowly rise. The higher the water temp, the faster the lure would rise. If I added ice to the tank, the lure would start to sink. I have some of those lures as personal use, but would never consider charging any money for them because I knew there would be complaints on the lure either rising or sinking.


----------



## Eatsleepfish (Aug 3, 2008)

YakFishin said:


> Question, I have recently bought two "suspending" rapala jerk baits (one shallow, one deep diving) but when I get them in the water they rise just like the floating ones do am I doing something wrong or its this lure junk? I have some cheap-o versions of jerk baits from wal-mart that suspend beautifully what gives?


This is a pretty good thread. Keep em coming!

Yakfishin, As others have said water temps are a huge part of it although I will say that I've had multiple identical lures before all suspend differently so not only is it water temperature, but also the individual lure. Different amounts of paint on a lure makes a difference as well so you can't do a one size fits all if you are trying to tune multiple lures of the same size, but different colors. I personally use Christmas ornament hooks to wrap around the hook shaft of my jerkbaits. If I want to test a lure in really cold water, I will fill a pitcher full of water and put ice in it. Drop the lure in a little before the ice melts so it has a number of minutes to cool down to the water temp. A warm lure tuned in cold water will act differently when it cools down so don't skip this step. When the ice has pretty much melted, bend some of the Christmas ornament hooks into a U and hang them on the hooks or eyelets. Add enough to suspend how you want it. Need to make slight corrections? Use wire cutters to cut them. Sometimes 1/16in is the difference between a perfectly suspended lure and a slow riser/sinker. Once you have the desired amount of weight, use needle nose pliers to wrap the wire around the hook shafts. People also use suspending dots, led tape, hook rings, and soldering wire.

Tip. Fish cheaply. In other words, learn to fish with what you have. I see too many guys thinking they need to buy the very best of everything and end up buying everything only to learn they don't know how to fish and possibly give up on fishing altogether or are out a lot of money with stuff that only collects dust. You might look cool with that $300 rod/reel, but a $50 one does the same thing and won't put you in a hole. This especially hold true for purchasing things you know nothing about like kayaks or different reels. You don't need a Jackson right off the bat. Buy a well taken care of used rig first to see if it's really what you want to pursue. It amazes me how many people on FB, CL, various forums etc put up expensive equipment of all types for sale saying, "used once or twice and it's not for me". So they bought the best for what reason?


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Yup... you def dont t need the expensive stuff if your just getting into it... but it sure is nice to have later in the game..


----------



## fvogel67 (Nov 15, 2010)

When I'm done fishing,I always loosen the drag on my reels.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

fvogel... why?


----------



## fvogel67 (Nov 15, 2010)

I've always done it,I think its a good idea to take the pressure off the drag when your not using it.


----------



## ristorap (Mar 6, 2013)

Tip # 1 When I get new lures I take them to a pond with clear water to see how they move with different speeds, jerks, pause, and how much flash.

Tip # 2 I take a Plano box put some different baits in it some with rattles some with out. Different shapes like shad, bluegill, minnow, flat sided, jointed, lipless. Have them in different colors.


----------



## dytmook (May 3, 2015)

Always have snacks...


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

That was a good tip I have been playing around with different things to weigh the lure down but wire around the hook is a good idea without having to change the hooks and rings out. Any suggestions for when they need lightened up?


----------



## Cat Mangler (Mar 25, 2012)

YakFishin said:


> That was a good tip I have been playing around with different things to weigh the lure down but wire around the hook is a good idea without having to change the hooks and rings out. Any suggestions for when they need lightened up?


The only viable options I've found are to replace hooks and o rings with smaller sized ones. Most guys are uncomfortable with this though, and chalk sinkers up as a loss. That or take em back to exchange.

PS. I use lead wire to tune my suspending lures. More costly than ESF's method, but super easy to manipulate and trim. And a eaybetter alternative to those suspending dots. Any tackle shop that supplies fly tying materials should have some on hand, I get mine from fisherman's headquarters.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Tip: never accept an offer from another guy to "give you his old waders "

... lesson learned on my first trip to the maumee river in 2005.


----------



## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

Mean Morone said:


> I'm going to miss that spot Seth.


Tip: Frame your photos in such a way that even those familiar with area are confused. 


(This on the Ohio, but real close to home Scott. Not the ever-dying WWD.)


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

Ok fellas I need some advice on my new bait casting setup. I bought an abu garcia pro max bait caster on a 7 ft medium action rod with 30 lb. braid. My intentions are to use it for the upcoming topwater frog sessions. This is the first time I have used a bait casting reel, so my question is... Do I need to change the setup say rod and line strength to a lighter combo to throw lighter lures? I can get heavier stuff out fine but the light stuff makes me want to throw that piece in the river, back lash city.. Tips? Suggestions??


----------



## Flannel_Carp (Apr 7, 2014)

Have you familiarized yourself with the magnetic brake and spool tension knob?

Reccomendation: With baitcasters you often need to adjust the spool tension if you swap between lures with a significant weight difference. Put your magnetic brake all the way up to 10, hold the rod straight out with the lure dangling then click the spool release button. You want your lure to fall to the ground and once it hits you want your spool to spin maybe two times at the most.

If the lure doesn't fall by it's own weight, then your spool tension is too tight. If the lure falls fast and the spool starts to backlash when the lure hits the ground then your spool tension is too loose.

Make sure to keep your thumb off of the spool when doing this.

As you get better and more familiar with the reel and casting it you can start to turn the magnetic brake down and thumb or "feather the spool" with your thumb, making sure to stop it from spinning as your lure hits the water. Backing the brake off and thumbing the spool allows the lure to have less resistance working against it as it pulls line off the spool.

Good luck!


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

Flannel_Carp said:


> Have you familiarized yourself with the magnetic brake and spool tension knob?
> 
> Reccomendation: With baitcasters you often need to adjust the spool tension if you swap between lures with a significant weight difference. Put your magnetic brake all the way up to 10, hold the rod straight out with the lure dangling then click the spool release button. You want your lure to fall to the ground and once it hits you want your spool to spin maybe two times at the most.
> 
> ...


thanks flannel carp I am familiar with all of the adjustments and have watched many tutorial videos on how to use one but when i have it adjusted like you said (which i learned from a youtube vid) I either have to have the magnetic brake turned up and it won't cast far at all or turn it down and it backlashes even before it hits the water I am sure wind had a lot to do with it. I guess my question is do you think I should take the line down to say 8 lb braid or something to get better distance from the lighter lures?


----------



## Flannel_Carp (Apr 7, 2014)

YakFishin said:


> thanks flannel carp I am familiar with all of the adjustments and have watched many tutorial videos on how to use one but when i have it adjusted like you said (which i learned from a youtube vid) I either have to have the magnetic brake turned up and it won't cast far at all or turn it down and it backlashes even before it hits the water I am sure wind had a lot to do with it. I guess my question is do you think I should take the line down to say 8 lb braid or something to get better distance from the lighter lures?


How far would you say it is going when you cast it? When you say light lure, how light?

Yeah 30lb braid is good for frogs and fishing heavy cover, but is definitely overkill in my book for just fishing normal waters for bass.


----------



## SMBHooker (Jan 3, 2008)

YakFishin said:


> thanks flannel carp I am familiar with all of the adjustments and have watched many tutorial videos on how to use one but when i have it adjusted like you said (which i learned from a youtube vid) I either have to have the magnetic brake turned up and it won't cast far at all or turn it down and it backlashes even before it hits the water I am sure wind had a lot to do with it. I guess my question is do you think I should take the line down to say 8 lb braid or something to get better distance from the lighter lures?


Ya don't need mile long casts to catch'em frog fishing. The longer the cast the more line to pick up and swing to set the hook and u need a good hook set. Don't think line size matters.

I fish 30 lb and it cast a mile if I wanted to on my super duty.


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

SMBHooker said:


> Ya don't need mile long casts to catch'em frog fishing. The longer the cast the more line to pick up and swing to set the hook and u need a good hook set. Don't think line size matters.
> 
> I fish 30 lb and it cast a mile if I wanted to on my super duty.


I am referring to fishing on the frog setup with a light lure like a jerk bait or something can that be done or do I have the wrong setup?


----------



## BMayhall (Jun 9, 2011)

Light lures can be frustrating with baitcasters. The lighter the baitcaster and lighter the spool the easier it gets for light lures. Personally, I dont like throwing anything less than a 1/4oz lure with my baitcasters. I rather throw lighter gear on my spinning rods. 30lb braid has like a diameter of 4-6lb line, if i had to guess off the top of my head. That shouldnt be a problem for lighter baits. You can always lighten up on the breaks and tension until you find that sweet spot and try to remember that sweet spot for next time, if you jump back to heavier baits.


----------



## SMBHooker (Jan 3, 2008)

BMayhall said:


> Light lures can be frustrating with baitcasters. The lighter the baitcaster and lighter the spool the easier it gets for light lures. Personally, I dont like throwing anything less than a 1/4oz lure with my baitcasters. I rather throw lighter gear on my spinning rods. 30lb braid has like a diameter of 4-6lb line, if i had to guess off the top of my head. That shouldnt be a problem for lighter baits. You can always lighten up on the breaks and tension until you find that sweet spot and try to remember that sweet spot for next time, if you jump back to heavier baits.


BMayhall is prob with the majority of guys.

I'm opposite tho - I'll do anything to not use spinning gear. I have great success fishing with long casts no prob with 1/8 oz lures and even weightless rigged softplastics. I'd only use spinning right now if I wanted an extra rod and presentationon the deck of the kayak or winter fishing real slow.

My personal preference.


----------



## BaitWaster (Oct 25, 2013)

I throw a medium heavy or heavy rod with 40-50 braid when fishing frogs in the pads/weeds. This is way too much for moving baits like cranks and jerks. I picked up a medium power rod and put fluorocarbon on the reel. I like it better because the fluorocarbon sinks as oppose to braid which floats. If your using braid on your moving baits it will mess with the depths your bait should dive to. This is just my opinion though. I use spinning set ups with 20 hi vis braid with fluoro leaders so the fish can't see the line as easily when throwing weightless plastics or really light lures.


----------



## 9Left (Jun 23, 2012)

Brian, the next trip I take you out on I will get you educated on using a bait caster


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

Well Carl I am waiting.... If we can plan a day it does pour down rain like the last two times. Text me I am ready when you are


----------



## YakFishin (Feb 20, 2017)

so my 


SMBHooker said:


> BMayhall is prob with the majority of guys.
> 
> I'm opposite tho - I'll do anything to not use spinning gear. I have great success fishing with long casts no prob with 1/8 oz lures and even weightless rigged softplastics. I'd only use spinning right now if I wanted an extra rod and presentationon the deck of the kayak or winter fishing real slow.
> 
> My personal preference.


So you guys are saying to downsize the line? That is what I am thinking I should do but not sure I need to get another bait caster so I can have one with lighter line and with the frog setup For now I guess I will just use my spinning rod and keep practicing the bait caster in my back yard. LOL That way it doesn't end up at the bottom of the river!


----------

