# sharpening your ice augers



## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well as I said we went to Erie yesterday. Nice sharp blades my buddies son sharpened. I worked with him before getting sick so i know hes qualified to do just as I am. Were both tool and die makers. And both certified tool grinders. Not bragging but some back ground for my thoughts.I keep reading about every one having problems getting blades sharpened right. So naturally i keep wondering why its such a problem. I haven't even examined a blade yet. But after reading all i could last couple days I think i have a few ideas. First Id like to know from you all. What happens when you try to sharpen them besides the obvious they don't cut. From what i see most say they "skate", "dance" around or jump. Now if thats the case its obvious what causes that. Or if they just sit and wont cut.
First if you have an auger with two blades. They need a fixture to be ground right. Or need to be ground on the auger. If not done this way and it still cuts you got lucky and soon will lose the positioning to do it right. thats when they jump and skate.
If yours just stays there but wont cut the angle has been changed. Or if it cuts but dont chip.
Tool sharpening is pretty basic. You have primary angle and normally a secondary angle. If thats correct they cut.
Now Ive heard the bull about being hollow ground too! But what a hollow grind really is, is a secondary angle ground with the curvature of the grinding wheel to create a hollow secondary clearance. Not some secret technique that cant be sharpened. Mostly used on knife. Oh and a lazer cut blade is just that. Cut from metal using a lazer. Then sharpened like any other blade.
Just thought id share for those trying to sharpen their own. Since I havent tried yet. But soon will a Lansky sharpener or similar would be my best suggestion. Never a grinder or a belt sander that heats the metal. Do it on your auger with careful attention on angle. And also watch the back of the primary cutting edge. After a while it will get higher in the back causing the lead edge not to cut. Then you need the secondary backed off.
May to check in to seeing if fixtures are around for the popular ones. Looks like there may be a chance to make a couple dollars doing these. But hope this helps some of you having problems.


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## Eliminator (Aug 26, 2006)

My brother designs and writes programs for a tool co. in Hartville that specializes industry cutting knives, been there 20 some years, I quarentee he would laugh at those anti-sharpen posts. But actually, if I gave him my dull used blades to sharpen he would just make me some brand new ones.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Eliminator said:


> My brother designs and writes programs for a tool co. in Hartville that specializes industry cutting knives, been there 20 some years, I quarentee he would laugh at those anti-sharpen posts. But actually, if I gave him my dull used blades to sharpen he would just make me some brand new ones.


Well if you dont understand the principal in sharpening, and most dont. It could seem like an impossible task. Yes when i was at the shop we had two 5 axis computer grinders. I kept running 12 hours a day. But while they ran I also hand sharpened many special items. I also worked for a tool company doing it before going there. Knowledge is the difference.


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## sonar (Mar 20, 2005)

Thanks viper!! I have kinda re-touched the edges of mine ,,mounted to the auger bit seats & it works pretty good....But never like new,,but better than it was before I did anything to it... I'm NO pro!! & in another post it was suggested that pulling the edge over the stone (edge last),,was a better style than pushing the edge...?? I ALWAYS edge first (push the edge first to the stone/India stone)my blades..Knives or augers.... ----->>>>>sonar<<<<<-----


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## Bulldog1149 (Feb 26, 2006)

I had a few that got a tiny bit of rust and quit cutting even tho you could probably shave with them. I touched them up with a small stone to save existing angles. I am a twenty year machinist and could not make a snow cone with the ice I cut. 


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

yep lot of difference then tool grinder. LOL! I was looking at my buddies. The way the strike force 2 of his is made it is flat on the back and very wide. I haven't tried yet. But im guessing if you had a real wide and long knife stone like i do for my meat knives. A person gold place it flat and rub long strokes of the stone by placing the blade on the stone and moving the blade. I would use a black marker to mark blade and check after the first few strokes to see if your covering the full blade in all four corner areas. If it does then stroke that till edge cleans up sharp. Just an idea but if done right should work.


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## Bluegillin' (Jan 28, 2009)

I have not had to use it yet but bought a "STRIKEMASTER CS1 Lazer Deluxe Ice Auger Sharpener" for less than $10. Seems like it will be fairly easy to use when I need it. Anyone use one of these?


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## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

Part of the problem is they use junk steel, keeps you coming back to buy more blades


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## Lewis (Apr 5, 2004)

I worked 32 years as a machinist and always sharpened my own blades. I can get several seasons on resharpened blades. I always used a 8" diameter rotating diamond plate with water for coolant with great success on auger blades. 
Wish I had that tool at home.
What usually gets dull or out of shape is the leading edge that first makes contact with the ice.
You will get a heck of a lot more blade life if you gently set the blades on the ice to start a cut and NEVER tap the auger to remove slush.


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## steelmagoo (Apr 13, 2004)

Bluegillin' said:


> I have not had to use it yet but bought a "STRIKEMASTER CS1 Lazer Deluxe Ice Auger Sharpener" for less than $10. Seems like it will be fairly easy to use when I need it. Anyone use one of these?


Bluegillin, I have one of these too. Mixed results. Worked OK for the first few times touching up my Lazer blades. Do not get aggressive with it, it will do more harm than good. If there is the tiniest nick in the edge, this tool seems to make it bigger. I don't use it any more, I bought a very fine ceramic stick sharpener (honing stick) with an oval cross section. Using this, being very careful and very lucky, I brought my blades back into form.


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## fish master (Dec 24, 2005)

I have been spraying pam cooking spray on my bladez at the end of the year and they have lasted for 5 years now. no rust. someone posted don't tap the bladez. true I have never slammed mine it goes from the hole to laying down like a baby. one thing iv learned was I try not to let other people drill there own holes. they might not know not to do this. someone asks to borrow your auger just ask them where they would like a hole. I don't reopen holes unless I use a spud bar. when I bought my first strike master auger it came with cheap china bladez. (place of origin should be on the bladez) they broke in 1 season called them up and they sent me a new American made pair. try not to cut thru paper or anything that can cause the bladez to become dull. treat you auger like a baby and you will be able to make swiss cheese out there for a few seasons..~FM~


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## sonar (Mar 20, 2005)

My Mora 8",,has always had stainless blades,,I touch them up with a flat India stone,,on the auger/mounted,,as needed... Never a problem with any rust,,on the blades..Only the rest of the setup,,the painted portion,,& I repaint that as needed,,Its John Deere Green now..... ----->>>>>sonar<<<<<-----


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## icebucketjohn (Dec 22, 2005)

I bought this hand auger sharpener decades ago. It does a fair job. Dont know if it's still on the market.


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## johnrude (Mar 29, 2009)

fish master said:


> I have been spraying pam cooking spray on my bladez at the end of the year and they have lasted for 5 years now. no rust. someone posted don't tap the bladez. true I have never slammed mine it goes from the hole to laying down like a baby. one thing iv learned was I try not to let other people drill there own holes. they might not know not to do this. someone asks to borrow your auger just ask them where they would like a hole. I don't reopen holes unless I use a spud bar. when I bought my first strike master auger it came with cheap china bladez. (place of origin should be on the bladez) they broke in 1 season called them up and they sent me a new American made pair. try not to cut thru paper or anything that can cause the bladez to become dull. treat you auger like a baby and you will be able to make swiss cheese out there for a few seasons..~FM~


i agree if someone asks to use your auger do the hole for them ! and be careful putting the blades to the ice and when done laying the auger down carefully. i clean my blades after the season with extra fine steel wool that is soaked in oil. i just wipe them off and cover them till next year. i don't sharpen blades i buy new ones as soon as i start having problems drilling holes. i probably get 3-5 seasons out of a set of blades if i am careful.


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## fish master (Dec 24, 2005)

johnrude said:


> i agree if someone asks to use your auger do the hole for them ! and be careful putting the blades to the ice and when done laying the auger down carefully. i clean my blades after the season with extra fine steel wool that is soaked in oil. i just wipe them off and cover them till next year. i don't sharpen blades i buy new ones as soon as i start having problems drilling holes. i probably get 3-5 seasons out of a set of blades if i am careful.


this was posted in 2014 and i still have the same blades on my auger...used it last winter in michigan


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## icebucketjohn (Dec 22, 2005)

[email protected]


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## mach1cj (Apr 11, 2004)

My auger is 45 years old with the same blade I bought it with.😁


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