# How to use a Vibe E



## KSUFLASH

I have tried Vibe E's a few times, and I can never seem to get the hang of how to work them. Seems the treble hooks always want to snag my line and foul up when ripping them up the water column. Would like to learn a way to use thes. Also, I hear some guys tip the hooks with a minnow head. Tried that, but it puts the blade bait off balance and doesn't vibrate very well. The bait falls off the hook pretty fast as well. If I am correct, I believe there are 3 holes at the top of the blade bait as well, where tie your line. What is the purpose of these 3 holes, why not just one




flash-----------------------out


----------



## Shortdrift

The Vib-E can be worked in several ways. Jigged, pump cast and trolled. For jigging, snap the rod up one to two feet then let the Vib fall on a semi tight line. If you slack off too much you will continually foul and miss bites.. Let the lure settle and sit still for a second or three then repeat. Remember that jigging is like all other forms of fishing in that the presentation must be varied according to what the fish want at that particular time. It helps to literally bang the lure off the bottom and sometimes leave it sit on the bottom briefly prior to snapping it up again. This immitates a dying baitfish.
For jigging I always use the center hole and also have a quality swivel about fifteen inches above the lure. Fireline is a real advantage also. I use 8#.
You can cast the Vib-E and let it settle to the desired depth or to the bottom then retrieve in in a pumping action but again being careful to have the line semi tight on the fall. If allowing the lure to settle to the bottom you should start the retrieve the minute it hits bottom. 
Lewis, Corey and I caught saugeye this spring by casting into a foot of water near the shore and pump retrieving as soon as the lure hit the water. The deepest water we fished was four feet.
You can troll the Vib-E also and use the pumping or even the snap action or a combo of both. I don't care to troll the Vib-E but it can be effective.
I'm sure the Guru Of Saugeyes, Jim Corey can add to these methods.
One last thing: Get a good plug knocker unless you want to go broke. Corey sells the best one I have ever used. It is a short section of round stock with three small link chains on the bottom. You attach it to the line, send it down, bump the lure until the chains foul the hooks and then collect the whole mess. You should be as vertical as possible over the snagged lure when using the knocker.
The $12 investment has saved Lewis and I over $100 to $150 in lures of all types. If you aint near or on the bottom for saugeyes, you are wasting your time.


----------



## Corey

You covered about everything, Shortpants. 
I have read in posts where some anglers favor allowing the Vib-"E" to fall to the bottom, then reeling it up a few inches and beginning their vertical jiging from that position. This does indeed minimize snags and fouling but I wouldn't reccommend it for Saugeyes. In most cases it is a great presentation for Walleyes but given the prediliction of Saugeyes for direct bottom contact, not using that bottom few inches of the water column can mean the difference between a few fish per trip and dozens. The main reason that I see for fouling when watching other anglers fish bladebaits, is dropping slack too fast on the downstroke, allowing the lure to turn over on the fall.

None of the newer Vib-"E"s has the 3 hole line tie setup. The 3 position holes were only on the 2 larger weight sizes, 1/2 and 3/4 ounce. Originally, the idea of 3 line tie positions was:
1.) Front hole for trolling, to give the lure a more horizontal attitude in the water, but using the front hole decreased the vibrating action and most anglers used the middle hole anyway.
2.) Middle hole for vertical jigging and casting in shallow to mid-depth waters, up to 
25-30 feet.
3.) Rear hole for extreme deep water vertical jigging, primarily for Lake Trout. Using the rear hole position allowed the lure to fall faster, in a more head-down position, reaching depths of 50-100 feet more quickly. As with the front hole though, using the rear hole decreased the vibrating action and most anglers used the middle hole anyway.

All the newer Vib-"E"s have only the one line tie position.


----------



## Fishin' Coach

In the spring I saw a few using Vib' ee s in the flats outside wild wings most days I could do better or equal with a hair jig and minnow but to be honest there were a few days we got our buts kicked by those shiny little devils!!!

Anyways for that type of walleye jigging If one was to only invest in a few of those lures what size and colors are best. I know that conditions vary... but If you had to limit yourself to a few what types would they be?

Thanks
--coach


----------



## bkr43050

I too have been trying to develop a confidence in blade baits and I can say that I am not there yet. Shortdrift, or Shortpants as some may say, mentioned the swivel up the line about 15". I am curious as to what line you use from the swivel to the lure? I had taken 17" flourocarbon and tied from the swivel to the lure. This seemed to help sut down a bit on my hook fouling. Is this what you Vibe E experts do?


I keep hearing so much good about these lures that I am hoping to some day actually get the hang of them and starting reaching for them when rigging up.


----------



## Shortdrift

I use 12# Seagaur Flurocarbon. IF I was to use mono I would use XT type for the added stiffness to reduce fouling.
All I used on the Erie Reefs in the spring is the Vib-E.
As far as colors go, my basic choice is: Gold, silver, clown, red head white body, white and blue, chartreuse and white, blue and silver, all in the 1/4 oz and 1/2 ounce size. Now if you want, I'll sell you all the other colors that looked good  to me but have not caught fish.  
Here is a Piedmont ice picture, all on the "VIB".


----------



## Lundy

If I was restricted to just two colors (thankfully I'm not) for Erie walleye and smallmouth it would be the blue/silver and the gold/green. I use them all, but I use those two colors the most. It all comes down to personal confidence in a bait. You just fish it better when you know that it works.

It is very hard to gain confidence in a new bait if you're not catching fish with it. The best trianing ground that I've ever seen for learning the "Heavy Metal" game is Erie from ice out (or through the ice) until the end of May. If you can't learn to catch bunches and bunches of all species on spoons and vib-e's during that time of year on Erie, take up golf

Kim


----------



## Lewis

Shortdrift likes the swivel on his line for bladebaits,but I dont use it.
I guess its just a matter of personal choice.
On the days when you have to "dump" the Vibe-E because thats what the fish want,I feel that the weight of the swivel,causes a bow in the line.
I use Fireline and tie on about a 15 ft. leader of 10 lb Vanish.


----------



## bkr43050

I have a couple of questions for you Lewis. You said you tie the Vanish flouro directly to the Fireline. What have you found to be the best knot for small braid to mono/flouro? I have had a rough time getting that small diameter fireline or spiderwird to not cut through the mono/flouro. Also, if you are tying 15 feet of flouro and working the lure vertical or near vertical are you even using any fireline? I would think that having that long of a flouro leader would take away all of the non-stretch and sensitivity advantage. But like I said, I have not caught anything with blade baits yet.


----------



## KSUFLASH

And I thought I was the only one one here that didn't know how to use a blade bait properly. Glad I asked!!!!

flash---------------------------------out


----------



## Hook N Book

These guys all gave top notch info for blade bait techniques. The tip from Shortdrift about using the swivel is a very good one (not to step on any toes here), simply because blades will tangle your line when using the pumping method repeatedly. This will eventually cause the line to fail due to fraying. Another thing you DON'T want to do is tie directly to the blade. Use a snap lock, which comes with some of the blade baits.


----------



## Warpath

I have only used Vibe E's sparingly, but mainly down Corey's way at Clendening. But if RiverWalker says that Corey is the master of those little demon baits...it must be the truth. 

Did anyone mention to use split rings on the hooks? I always trade my hooks out for a new red hook on the front and a regular one on the back, but I always use a split ring. It keeps the fish from using the flat side of the bait as leverage to pull the hooks out of the mouth. Also, don't trade up hook size. They'll only help foul up the bait. 

The best knot to use to attach two lines together is the blood knot (sometimes called the surgeon's knot too, I think), which I haven't used for 20 years. Fly fishermen use it all the time. Which is why I don't use it anymore. I haven't fly-fished for many a moons.

Eric


----------



## Shortdrift

When tying leader to braided line, I use a double Uni Knot, four turns on the braided, whatever number is required based on the diameter of the mono (usually less than the braided), and then some instant glue. Be careful as you pull the knot tight and make sure the coils are one against the other. Never had a problem of cutting the Seagaur Flurocarbon using this knot system.


----------



## Corey

I also use the double Uni knot to join my braid to Fluorocarbon, and, as Lewis said, I use a long leader. Fluorocarbon has much less stretch than monofilament so when working vertically I don't lose much sensitivity or hook setting power. When I'm casting, I get the full benefits of the braid. With a long leader, the knot joining the braid to the leader is wound up securely on the reel spool when I have a fish next to the boat or up close to the ice, mostly for my peace of mind, even though I may trust the knot. The diameter and length of the Fluoro leader, 10-12 for me, also slows the fall of the spoon or bladebait, which can make a major difference. I personally never use split rings, in fact I remove them from any bladebaits that come with them, like Krazy Blades. Line fouling occurs much more often when using split rings, at least for me. I also don't use swivels, except when the type of bite demands very aggressive upstrokes with smaller size bladebaits, like 1/8 or 3/16 ounce. Occasionally I'll need a swivel on bigger sizes if I am fishing fast river current. As mentioned above, always use a snap to attach the lure to the line, and make sure it's a round-nosed snap. This style snap allows a free swing of the lure as it vibrates.


----------



## bkr43050

I was using the double Uni knot to attach but since I don't use that method very often I am sure that I was doing something wrong. I also never used the glue but I may try that as well.


Thanks for the tips guys!


----------



## Lewis

BKR..I was going to answer you regarding the leader question,but Corey nailed it! 
The round nose snap is a must!
The biggest mistake that I see first time bladebait users make is to rip the bait way too hard and high.
Sometimes they want it this way,but rarely. 
Actually I have been fishing Vib-Es for many,many years,as has Corey.
I started using them years ago when Bill Edworthy made a few in his basement and sold them to friends.
I have a few old prototypes in my tacklebox that I havent even opened.
I used to get some strange looks from the few early season Erie anglers who were fishing nothing but jigs.
Thousands of Eyes later..its still a killer bait.


----------



## KSUFLASH

sounds like blade baits are the holy grail!!!!!

flash------------------------------out


----------



## Net

> Also, I hear some guys tip the hooks with a minnow head. Tried that, but it puts the blade bait off balance and doesn't vibrate very well.


The only time I ever feel tempted to tip a Vibe-E with a minnow is while ice fishing on a very slow day and only after I've tried everything else. In a vertical presentation I prefer to tip leadhead jigs, jigging spoons and jigging rap's.


----------



## Action

Jim Corey does an awesome knot and I dont think its a uni. Its one for trolling where you milk out the florocarbon and fuse in the leader. Its the coolest knot I've ever seen. Whats that called Jim?


----------



## Lewis

Action,are you sure you are not refering to joining a Florocarbon leader to Leadcore?


----------



## husky hooker

And Just Think All This Time I Wondered Where The Batteries Went In???????


----------



## Corey

Yep, it's a joining knot for leader to leadcore. I ran onto it on WC a few years ago and have been using it. It's basically done by stripping out about 3 inches of lead, leaving the hollow dacron braided sheath, inserting the leader material into the dacron till it abuts the lead, and adding a drop of fishing glue over the joint. For leader to braid or fused superline, I do use the double Uni.


----------



## Corey

Hey Husky, ARGEE is trying to contact you.


----------



## husky hooker

thanks jim


----------



## rockbass

HUSKY, have missed you man!


----------



## River Walker

I think the most important thing that Corey brought up is keeping the bait in the hit zone.Whenever I'm fortunate to find myself in a saugeye feeding frenzy,if you don't keep the bait at or very near the bottom,you'll catch very few fish.Saugeye rarely come off the bottom,you need to keep it within inches(if that)of the bottom.As far as swivels,I personally favor cross-locks,they work great for me.I don't go with any leader though,I tie directly to the cross-lock with 8# fireline,and go with a G.Loomis SJR721IMX rod,I believe I can actually feel it if a saugeye just breathes on my lure.That is one ultra-sensitive rig there.


----------

