# Cranks, part deux



## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

I saw WoodenShips' post on cranks, and I was going to ask this there, but I didn't want to derail him, so I figured I'd just make a new thread.

I've never been much of a crank guy. I would always tell myself I would use them, and I liked to collect them, but I always seemed to fall back to the ole' worm. (like some others stated in Cranks, part 1) From what crankin' I _have_ done I've always been a fan of Rapala. So I ran across a great deal for a sizable lot of Rapalas and I couldn't pass it up. Then, since I made this investment, I decided to make crankin' a focus this upcoming season. I picked up the MOJO crankin' and jerkbait/topwater rods and paired them both with the BPS Rick Clunn 7.1:1, and 6.3:1 respectively. I'm hoping some of you guys that have a lot more experience with cranks than I do could confirm whether or not these are too high a speed for effective crankin'. I've read conflicting reports, and kind of came to the conclusion that it is more of a preference thing, but I'm interested in some more direct feedback on it.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on the subject!

Oh, almost forgot.. Do you guys use snaps? If not, what knot do you use for tying directly to your split ring? (I'm assuming you don't take the split ring off) If you do use a snap, is the split ring still necessary?


Here's the collection.. (I know, 3 are not Rapalas =P) Only about 15 have ever been wet, (and the ones that have go back about 15 years!) but I look forward to getting better at using them all!


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

I use snaps on all crankbaits. Note I did not say swivel snaps. I like the duo lock snaps. I use the #2 for deep divers and the #1 for everything else. I take the split ring off except on some crankbaits the eye is very difficult to easily insert the snap. These I leave the split ring in. 
The reels you have should work fine except for a couple of the deep diver DT's you have. You will know if you need a lower gear ratio if it wears you out cranking it. This indicates you are using too high a ratio reel. My preference is a round reel in a 5.3/1 ratio for the deep cranks.


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## thelatrobe33 (May 19, 2008)

I think snaps are a personal preference. I never use snaps unless the crank comes standard with one. Like leeabu said, the only trouble you'll run into with the reels is when deep crankin'. Cranking all day with a 6.3:1 or up can be tiresome. I use a Curado 200E5 (5:1) for anything 10'+. The reels you have will be just fine for jerkbaits and topwaters though.


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## JignPig Guide (Aug 3, 2007)

I am impressed with your crankbait collection.

Regarding knots... I knot-up directly to the spit ring (if provided with the crankbait). And, I recommend tying either a palomar or the trilene. Studies have shown the palomar to be the number one fishing knot with: fluocarbon, monofilament, and braid. The trilene knot came in a close second.

Now go out in 2010 and get some of those crankbaits wet, and into the mouth of some giant bass!!!


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## lordofthepunks (Feb 24, 2009)

your rod selection can play a part in how you feel at the end of the day as well. if your rod is too stiff (sometimes thats a good thing lol) cranking bigger and deeper baits will wear you out as well. a 7'+ medium action rod will absorb alot of the energy that would normally be transferred to your arm. as far as reels go. i would use the high speed reel for your lipless and shallow cranks that youll use around cover and pairing the 6.3-1 reel with the right rod will lighten the load for the deeper cranks. if you pair up a 5 to1 reel with the right rod it will lighten the load even more. alot of guys use fiberglass rods for crankin, most of them are heavy. i like to use a graphite rod but with alot of action. works for me, seems to be the best of both worlds (low feel, with light weight)

i use the g loomis cranking series rods for smaller cranks and a g loomis gl2 pr845c for larger ones.


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## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

Thanks for the input guys.

So would I be interpreting your guys' thoughts correctly if I were to say that when using a deep runner, the increased water resistance creates fatigue due to more torque being required when retrieving the bait? Put another way, while you might not need to turn the handle as quickly with a higher ratio reel, the power required to crank it will be higher and since deep runners have more resistance, and it'll show up in the way of a fatigued forearm/wrist or w/e after a while.. ?

Traditionally, I have always made a loop at the end of my line using a double overhand knot, then put the loop through the split ring, then dropped the bait through the loop. I don't even know if that's a "real" knot, and I'm not sure where I picked it up, but I'm rethinking it because it can easily get stuck in between the ends of the wire in the split ring and become frayed. This forces me to be constantly checking my connection and results in lost casts over time.

Oh, also, what's the deal with the flouro? As far as I know it wasn't readily available when I stopped fishing years ago, so I've been looking into it. I think braid had just hit the scene! I've read that the reduced line stretch of flouro is more desirable at greater depths, but is of little gain at shollow depths or on the surface. But again, I've also read opinions leaning toward a mono preference because they like the stretch so they don't yank it out of "Billy's" mouth too quickly. /sigh.. lol


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## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

LotP: Ya know, I happened to catch what I think was the 2009 Angler of the Year fish-off or some such thing last weekend, (tournament fishing has changed SO much over the last 15 years, I don't even know how it works anymore. When I quit following it, KVD was just a new kid. lol) and I noticed Skeet was using what appeared to be about a 8' - 8'6" bright yellow rod that started its bend just in front of the handle! Damned thing looked like one of my noodle rods, only he was throwing cranks! :Banane26: I was like !


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

Florocarbon has little streatch and is very abrasion resistant. It also sinks and is near invisible in the water. It is not a good choisce for surface lures but I use it for everything else. The polomar knot is not a good choice for Florocarbon nor any other type knot where you double you line. I use the improved Trilene.
I have two problems with typing to a split ring:
1. Not as easy to change baits and when done for the day, I take off the lure and attach a crankbait body with no hooks for easier storage. 
2. The split in the split ring. Can cut or nick your line.


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## Tiny Tim (Sep 19, 2006)

You need to get those baits busy this coming spring. They are way too pretty  I like to use the lower gear reels for cranks except the lipless ones with are better fished with a higher speed reel. I have a couple of older crankbait reels that are 3.7:1 and 4.0:1 that I like to use for the bigger baits so that you dont wear your arms out. Also fiberglass rods help alot with the bigger baits, they more forgiving than stiffer rods and will let the fish get the bait into their mouths a little better. I use 6ft rods for smaller baits but have them as long as 7 1/2ft.for the larger baits.As far as line goes, I like the florocarbon line for crankin because it sinks and because it has a lot more feel to it than mono.Hope this helps you some.


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## CARP 104 (Apr 19, 2004)

I've used snaps before and have had caught plenty of fish with them, and also without them. Tying directly to the split ring is usually my personal preference, just be sure not to tie down in the split.

I have a 6.3:1 reel and a 4.7:1 reel for cranks, and will soon be getting a 5.4:1. I prefer the 6.3:1, as I just feel more confident with it as of right now and have caught more fish with it. I like to slow down with the 6.3 VS switching to the 4.7, slowing down my retrieve on the 6.3 also lets me get a better 'feel' on the bait rather than turning the handle fast on a slower reel.


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## lordofthepunks (Feb 24, 2009)

HoggBoss said:


> LotP: Ya know, I happened to catch what I think was the 2009 Angler of the Year fish-off or some such thing last weekend, (tournament fishing has changed SO much over the last 15 years, I don't even know how it works anymore. When I quit following it, KVD was just a new kid. lol) and I noticed Skeet was using what appeared to be about a 8' - 8'6" bright yellow rod that started its bend just in front of the handle! Damned thing looked like one of my noodle rods, only he was throwing cranks! :Banane26: I was like !


yeah, ive seen that. the theory with the extra long rod is that the longer the rod, the longer the cast, the longer your crankbait is at the desired running depth. you definately want a slow action rod with alot of whip. this does two things for you, a longer cast and less feel. sounds goofy to say you want less feel but when cranking it helps

as far as line selection goes ive used both mono and florocarbon. rick clunn will tell you to use mono when your around cover, (kvd will say that if you aint bouncing your crank off of anything then you aint catching fish) this will allow your bait to ricochet off cover more eratically and trigger more strikes because it has more stretch to it (it will give the bait a bungee cord effect when it strikes a chunk of wood or a rock) but florocarbon has its advantages as well, like the guy said earlier, it sinks which helps get to desired depths. some manufactures also make line that has smaller diameter with same pound rating which can also help tremendously in deep water. if you can run 12lb floro with the same diameter as 10lb mono then your going to have a stronger line that dives a few feet deeper then traditional 12lb line mono. and really the stretch between floro and mono is not as big of a gap as say between braid and floro. what im saying i guess is that floro is not so completely stretchless that you cant crank with it like braid is.

if i know im going to be fishing primarily wood with my cranks then i prefer mono, if im fishing rock then im rolling with floro, if im going to fish heavy weeds or grass then i might consider a braid but that would be the only situation i would use braid in and really that to me is rare unless im ripping a lipless through grass beds.

its alot to digest i know and none of us can afford to change line every time we go to a different lake, i would say that floro is the most versatile.


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

Nice crank lot!

If you are going to do a lot of deep cranking, i.e. DD22s and Flat CB D20s, then you owe it to yourself to get at a minimum a 7' MH or H power, mod action rod. If you like a longer rod, a 7'6" M rod is good too. Glass is better for deep cranks - unless you want every little vibration to come through the rod to wear you out. Sensitivity is not the primary concern for cranks. Heavy doesn't matter as much as balanced. A Zillion CC will balance out a 7' glass rod nicely. Of course, if you go custom you can get a good glass CB rod for under 4.5 oz.

For shallow and medium cranks, I like a 7:1 reel with a medium power, fast action glass rod. I like this setup for ripping and jerkbaits too.

"Low stretch flouro" is a lie. Flouro stretches just as much as a nylon mono. It is denser so it sinks and transmits vibration better. FC also has poor knot strength.

I always use snaps, but that is just preference. The loop knot will permit the crank to work freely, but you really need to watch abrasion. I typically use a snap with a palomar knot and use Yo-Zuri Hybrid.

HTH!


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## tcba1987 (Jun 22, 2004)

Nice Crankbait collection..............looks like you got everything that you will ever need to catch Bass at just about anytime of year to me !!!


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

HoggBoss said:


> LotP: Ya know, I happened to catch what I think was the 2009 Angler of the Year fish-off or some such thing last weekend, (tournament fishing has changed SO much over the last 15 years, I don't even know how it works anymore. When I quit following it, KVD was just a new kid. lol) and I noticed Skeet was using what appeared to be about a 8' - 8'6" bright yellow rod that started its bend just in front of the handle! Damned thing looked like one of my noodle rods, only he was throwing cranks! :Banane26: I was like !


Actually, there were two yellow SR rods: the SR705 and the SR765R. One is 7' and the other is 7'6"...and they are genius cranking rods.

Of course, it could have been one of these: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/descpageWNMCR-WMTCR.html

Ewwwwwww...


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## Fish G3 (Jul 16, 2008)

I held one of those skeet reese rods the other day at bass pro and liked the feel but couldn't take the bright yellow. I use the loomis crankbait rods and absolutely love them.

And HoggBoss don't you love those falcon boxes? that's the only kind of storage I use and absolutely love em.


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

Fish G3 said:


> I held one of those skeet reese rods the other day at bass pro and liked the feel but couldn't take the bright yellow. I use the loomis crankbait rods and absolutely love them.


The W&M or the Lami?


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## Fish G3 (Jul 16, 2008)

Tokugawa said:


> The W&M or the Lami?


The Wright and McGill were the ones that I looked at. Aren't the Lami's orangish kinda like the carrot stix gold rods?


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

Fish G3 said:


> The Wright and McGill were the ones that I looked at. Aren't the Lami's orangish kinda like the carrot stix gold rods?


The Lami's look like this:


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## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

The one I saw him using was the one you linked. It was bumblebee yellow. Maybe it's just cuz I'm conditioned, but I think that would bug me too.

And yes, I do love the boxes! Only problem is, I can't find a Falcon Speedbag anywhere.


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## Fish G3 (Jul 16, 2008)

HoggBoss said:


> The one I saw him using was the one you linked. It was bumblebee yellow. Maybe it's just cuz I'm conditioned, but I think that would bug me too.
> 
> And yes, I do love the boxes! Only problem is, I can't find a Falcon Speedbag anywhere.


Those bags are just about impossible to find. I don't understand why Falcon products are so hard to come across when they produce such great products. I got my 170 tackle bag off tacklewarehouse last year but they seemed to stop carrying them. I looked at cabelas, bass pro, and a few others and don't even really see them online except for a few smaller websites i've never heard of before. I have seen a few on Ebay here and there but not really much to choose from. 

And Toku i've seen skeet fish with those lami's and thats the one I was thinking of. But the Wright and McGill were the ones I picked up at BPS does BPS even carry lami's?


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

Fish G3 said:


> And Toku i've seen skeet fish with those lami's and thats the one I was thinking of. But the Wright and McGill were the ones I picked up at BPS does BPS even carry lami's?


They do online...not sure about in stores. Cabelas does. Tacklewarehouse is the best though. They don't charge you extra for shipping rods...and any order over $100 is free shipping.


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## Erterbass (Jul 4, 2005)

Nice crank collection, HoggBoss! Get 'em wet this year, OK? 

My thoughts/opinions (and that's all they are)...

As far as your crank collection, the one type of lure I didn't see is a true square-billed crank. Since you like Rapala's their DT FAT 3 in silver/black back is a GREAT square-bill that you can toss into nasty cover and it will come through just fine. Others are the Lucky Craft RC series from BPS (expensive I know but they go on sale frequently.) My favorites are the 1.5 and the 2.5 series non-rattling in either the copper perch or chartreuse perch colors. Norman also makes one called the Fat Boy in a bright yellow - real wide wobbles, they crash off the cover beautifully and lots of colors.

As far as the reel speed...My preference is for around a 5:1 ratio, especially for the deep divers (over 10') otherwise you'll be toast after a couple hours. One thing that doesn't get mentioned much is that to get maximum depth you need to reel SLOWLY - reeling too fast on a deep diver actually causes you to drag to lure more horizontally toward you rather than letting the lip pull it down deep. Now for the lipless crankbaits go with a 6.3:1 or so; I sling the lipless cranks on my shallow-water setup that has a 6.3:1 reel for lures down to about 10 feet; my deep crank setup is a longer 7'6" rod with the 5.1:1 reel.

Rods? I prefer a composite rod with a slow action. Doesn't give as much feel but with cranks I'm not worried about that. In fact, when I first got into crankbaits I used a graphite rod that was very sensitive and I could feel TOO much and would yank the lure away from the bass - with a slow action rod the bass gets ahold of it and then I react from there. My shallow crank rod is a medium with the deep rod is a M/H.

And keep your drag pressure light on your crank reels - I've lost a couple of NICE fish when I tried to horse them to the boat but if the drag would have been nice and loose and I had feathered the reel with my thumb I'm sure I would have had two personal best lunkers in my photo gallery... 

Like Leeabu I use duolock snaps directly to the eye of the crank. Fast changes, no worries about split rings nicking the line, and the lure's action is maintained (if not enhanced.)

I prefer flourocarbon line. It doesn't stretch _less _(it doesn't rebound or recoil like mono so if FEELS like there is less stretch) so that's where the slower action rod comes in handy. What it does do is get your lure deeper, has great abrasion resistance, and is absolutely invisible in the water. For topwater baits go with mono on a medium action rod - the mono floats whereas the flouro will kill the action of a topwater lure by dragging it down into the water.

Lot to think about - but in January when the water is hard what else are we gonna do...? 

Have fun!

Bob


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## jaxbasser (Dec 20, 2009)

I like the red eye shads in lipless cranks. Down here in florida the chrome and blue are tuff to beat. The bandit 200 sparkle shad and the yozuri hardcore minnows are favorites of mine in lipped crankbaits.


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

Erterbass said:


> Nice crank collection, HoggBoss! Get 'em wet this year, OK?
> 
> My thoughts/opinions (and that's all they are)...
> 
> As far as your crank collection, the one type of lure I didn't see is a true square-billed crank. Since you like Rapala's their DT FAT 3 in silver/black back is a GREAT square-bill that you can toss into nasty cover and it will come through just fine. Others are the Lucky Craft RC series from BPS (expensive I know but they go on sale frequently.) My favorites are the 1.5 and the 2.5 series non-rattling in either the copper perch or chartreuse perch colors. Norman also makes one called the Fat Boy in a bright yellow - real wide wobbles, they crash off the cover beautifully and lots of colors.


Good stuff in this post. DT3s are nice. I like LC BDSs also. I like the fact that the RCs and the BDSs do not have rattles. IMO, a wide wobble crank without rattles will be super-productive under the right conditions. Unfortunately, most cranks have rattles. If you aren't slamming the cranks into cover, they are not being fished properly.  Daiwa peanuts are good, inexpensive, floating shallow baits too...although they do not come through cover as nicely as square bills. The hooks can be suspect too, but those are easily replaced.



Erterbass said:


> As far as the reel speed...My preference is for around a 5:1 ratio, especially for the deep divers (over 10') otherwise you'll be toast after a couple hours. One thing that doesn't get mentioned much is that to get maximum depth you need to reel SLOWLY - reeling too fast on a deep diver actually causes you to drag to lure more horizontally toward you rather than letting the lip pull it down deep. Now for the lipless crankbaits go with a 6.3:1 or so; I sling the lipless cranks on my shallow-water setup that has a 6.3:1 reel for lures down to about 10 feet; my deep crank setup is a longer 7'6" rod with the 5.1:1 reel.


I'm using the Zillion CC 4.9:1 for the deep stuff. A low gear ratio reel is a necessity for deep cranking, especially when tossing Flat CB D20s or DD22s. 

For lipless cranks, I prefer a 7:1 reel. However, on certain occasions under certain conditions, I will throw lipless cranks on a slow reel.



Erterbass said:


> Rods? I prefer a composite rod with a slow action. Doesn't give as much feel but with cranks I'm not worried about that. In fact, when I first got into crankbaits I used a graphite rod that was very sensitive and I could feel TOO much and would yank the lure away from the bass - with a slow action rod the bass gets ahold of it and then I react from there. My shallow crank rod is a medium with the deep rod is a M/H.


My deep crank setup is a custom Lami on the SR705 blank - mod/fast action. I love glass for crankbaits. I am thinking about another deep cranking rod over 7'6" tho. What rod do you use for this? Those other thing about a moderate action rod is that the tip loads up more and really slings the bait. That is uber important, especially with deep cranks.

My lipless/shallow/med rod is a LC Fat Mini Magic, and it is great for target casting. The tip is fast, but it gets buttery smooth with a fish on. It is glass too.



Erterbass said:


> And keep your drag pressure light on your crank reels - I've lost a couple of NICE fish when I tried to horse them to the boat but if the drag would have been nice and loose and I had feathered the reel with my thumb I'm sure I would have had two personal best lunkers in my photo gallery...


True dat!!



Erterbass said:


> Like Leeabu I use duolock snaps directly to the eye of the crank. Fast changes, no worries about split rings nicking the line, and the lure's action is maintained (if not enhanced.)


Tru dat!!



Erterbass said:


> I prefer flourocarbon line. It doesn't stretch _less _(it doesn't rebound or recoil like mono so if FEELS like there is less stretch) so that's where the slower action rod comes in handy. What it does do is get your lure deeper, has great abrasion resistance, and is absolutely invisible in the water. For topwater baits go with mono on a medium action rod - the mono floats whereas the flouro will kill the action of a topwater lure by dragging it down into the water.


This is where we deviate. I am not a fan of pure FC, although, the LC Iron Athlete is nice. Too expensive tho. I LOVE Yo-Zuri hybrid Ultra Soft for anything that is not braid. The 10# line breaks at 15#. The 10# is great for deep cranking, and sinks a bit due to the FC content. Just enough stretch...a perfect line IMO. Oh...and I can get a 600 yd spool for $12. 



Erterbass said:


> Lot to think about - but in January when the water is hard what else are we gonna do...?
> 
> Have fun!
> 
> Bob


Thanks Bob fro a quality post!


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## thedon255 (May 4, 2008)

My dirty little secret on crankbaits is a Rebel minnow, just a couple inches long you can pick up from any Walmart. I use 6 lb Fireline and a 7 ft UL rod to help with casting. You can catch anything with it. I've gotten more bluegill than I can count, including some monster ones, bass close to 4 lbs, several catfish between 20-25 inches, crappie, and that's just while float tubing. At any lowhead dam on the Muskingum, I've also caught hybrids, smallmouth, white bass, sauger, drum, and gar with the Rebel minnow. A close second is a slender Rapala lure, I forget what model, but it's shallow, skinny, and small, maybe 2 1/2 inches. These are my go to lures for any body of water. I've had little success with larger crankbaits but I've caught hundreds of fish on the small, finesse lures.


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## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

Some awesome replies guys!

I think this is great not only to see what the points of agreement are, but what the differences are in peoples' approaches.

Based on your guys' feedback, to start out anyway, what I'll probably do is use the 7.1:1 reel with mono on the topwater/jerkbait rod for topwaters, jerkbaits,(duh and 4ft or less running cranks. I'll use the 6.3:1 with blended fluoro/mono line on the crankbait rod for 4ft thru 10ft cranks. I think I have only 1 crank that will run any deeper than that, the big blue shad pattern DT16 shown in the left/bottom compartment in the second frame down. I'm not even sure how often a crank that runs any deeper than 10ft would get used in East Branch or LaDue which are the two lakes closest to me and that I'll probably be spending most of my time on. Generally if fish are holding that deep, I'd tend to go after them with a different presentation.


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## Tokugawa (Apr 29, 2008)

HoggBoss said:


> Generally if fish are holding that deep, I'd tend to go after them with a different presentation.


Most guys would do that...hint, hint. Also, you can throw a DT16 in 10 FOW. 

I think you've got a good start!


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## soua0363 (Jun 10, 2005)

After experimenting the last couple years with cranking, I prefer a slower reel like a 5.1:1 gear ratio for anything that dives deeper than 10' and I like a rod that has a soft action to absorb the drag of the bait. I am currently using a Tour KVD 7'-4" with a Quantum Energy reel. Although the rod lacks in sensitivity, it handles deep divers like the DD22 and DT16 with ease and the slower reel does not wear you out. I can use this setup and cast crankbaits all day long without wearing myself out. 

For shallower cranks, I am currently using a 5.4:1 JM reel with a BPS 7'-0" medium Woo Daves Extreme "Crankbait" rod. It pulls in line a bit quicker and the rod is a lot more sensitive than the KVD Tour while it has a slow enough action to not pull the bait out of the fishes' mouth. I tried this setup first with the deep divers and it wore me out after 30 mins of cranking which is why I switched to the Tour KVD setup. 

For lipless crankbaits, I like a 6.3:1 or faster so I can burn it over grass if I need to do so. I also like a longer rod too so that I can get the bait a long way out. I am currently using a BPS 7'-6" medium heavy rod with a Quantum Energy 6.3:1 reel. I have also switched in a 7.1:1 Quantum TE when I really need to burn in a lipless. I use this setup to cast 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce lipless. 

I have tried mono, fluoro, and braid and have settled on old faithful...mono. Braid is strong but it has no stretch and I was losing alot of fish. Fluoro while it was sensitive, it is not as abraisive resistant as mono and it is not as strong as mono in my opinion. I have had fluoro snap in mid air while casting and it was not even breaking at the knot but up the line. Fluoro also frays like crazy after running baits through structures too. The mono that I use is Berkley Big Game 10 and 12 pound tests and while it does have some stretch, it is very, very abraisive resistant and is superbly strong. I can pull most baits loose away from snags with the Big Game as well too.


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## HoggBoss (Nov 12, 2009)

Erterbass said:


> Nice crank collection, HoggBoss! Get 'em wet this year, OK?
> 
> My thoughts/opinions (and that's all they are)...
> 
> As far as your crank collection, the one type of lure I didn't see is a true square-billed crank. Since you like Rapala's their DT FAT 3 in silver/black back is a GREAT square-bill that you can toss into nasty cover and it will come through just fine. Others are the Lucky Craft RC series from BPS (expensive I know but they go on sale frequently.) My favorites are the 1.5 and the 2.5 series non-rattling in either the copper perch or chartreuse perch colors. Norman also makes one called the Fat Boy in a bright yellow - real wide wobbles, they crash off the cover beautifully and lots of colors.


Good lookin'-out Bob! That hadn't even dawned on me.

Sooo.. I picked up some shallow diving, square-billed cranks. The only ones I had that ran very shallow were really jerkbaits and have a very tight action. I'm just hoping at least some of these will get down to at least a couple feet. I know at least one or two are wake baits though and will barely break the surface. I never used any of this type before.. I bet it could be a lot of fun.. almost topwater-ish. 

Now I need to grab a few mid-depth and deeper runners, but it's a start.

Oh.. Ordered a bunch of snaps too! =D


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## Fish G3 (Jul 16, 2008)

Fishing wake baits are a blast. I love fishing them parallel to the bank in shallow water in the early morning. If I can't get them to commit to the buzzbait that is usually the next lure that im going to throw. You've got a real nice crank collection building too.


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