# Ubangie Jigs



## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

Poured up a few of my Ubangie Jigs. They are about 3/16th Oz with spinner blade insert for the lip. The eye is cut of jig hook and put over clevis hole in blade. Shank bent back over blade to fasten hook and blade together. The attachment hole for line tie is drilled several at a time with blades stacked, before pouring. Made me a couple Keller’s Killers and spoons for grubs while I had things drug out.


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## c. j. stone (Sep 24, 2006)

Those are very cool looking. Gave me some ideas for some new creations! Assume they are "conventional" pinmin sized blades(0, 00)? Where'd you get the ones with the dorsal fin, or is that part of the lead casting? Bet those have some great "action" when jigged?


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## Karl Wolf (Apr 26, 2020)

Drm50 said:


> Poured up a few of my Ubangie Jigs. They are about 3/16th Oz with spinner blade insert for the lip. The eye is cut of jig hook and put over clevis hole in blade. Shank bent back over blade to fasten hook and blade together. The attachment hole for line tie is drilled several at a time with blades stacked, before pouring. Made me a couple Keller’s Killers and spoons for grubs while I had things drug out.
> View attachment 377645


Really cool looking. I imagine a fantastic flutter!


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

Blades are #2s in jigs. The lures with dorsal fins are copies of the old Keller’s Killers. When I was a kid back in 50s guys made them out of tin can lids. The solder jobs were terrible but they caught Crappie by the bucket. I don’t remember factory made ones but the bait shops around the local lakes had them for sale. I make all that kind of lures out of brass. Short of buying Brass shim stock you can find brass in older light fixtures. Many of the old flo fixtures had nickel plated brass as reflectors. If you use brass for bodies and a gold plated hook it makes soldering easy. On blades and other nickel plated brass you must sand or scratch through nickel to solder. The brass out of the old light fixtures is plated on one side. Makes it perfect for solder and paint or polish nickel side.


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## c. j. stone (Sep 24, 2006)

I got some acid based "tinning" liquid years ago at Sears. It's in a plastic bottle with a small brush made into the cap like nail polish. I brush a tiny drop on ."plated" surfaces, which etches the plating, and can solder to chromed surfaces like blades very well. I use the gold aberdeen hooks for all my panfish soldered lures. Even spread a thin coat of solder on chromed "drain pipe cutouts" to add a bit of weight. Currently making the small "beaded" jigging spoons for(perch) ice fishing.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

I just use a Dremil with wire wheel to rough up blades to solder. I have pieces of 1x sheeting that have brads and alligator clips set up to produce lures we sold or used a lot of. For really small stuff I have Swift solder that is solder in paste with flux. When you get clamped just apply paste with tooth pick and hit with small propane torch. A second is all it takes.


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