# Best Wax for a Ranger RT178



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

What are your opinions on the best wax for my boat seeing it's painted aluminum? Most of the marine wax I've researched is aimed towards fiberglass and gel coat.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

I like Meguiars boat/RV wax.


----------



## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

Meguiars is a solid choice. I use colonites 845 insulator wax. I think it lasts longer imo


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

I will check them out. A lady from Ranger said not to use anything with silicone in it but didn't give me any suggestions.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Frankie G said:


> I will check them out. A lady from Ranger said not to use anything with silicone in it but didn't give me any suggestions.


Probably cause of the clear coat they applied to the paint.
Unless there's something special/different about the way Ranger paints/clear coats there boats, just about any clear coat safe, non silicones wax should work.
I don't think the Meguiars Boat/RV Pure Wax contains silicone but you best check the ingredients to make sure. I've got a bottle in the garage but can't read the back cause it's a scuffed.



capt j-rod said:


> Meguiars is a solid choice. I use colonites 845 insulator wax. I think it lasts longer imo


Will have to try some of that capt.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Colonite 845. Youll never use another wax in your life. I use it on everything. Ive been detailing cars trucks boat rvs semis pretty much everything since 2003 and i can tell you right now when people want the best for their vehicles thats what they get.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Also not sure where your at but being a fellow ogfer id give you a deal on a detail. Also if you wanted your tow vehicle and your boat done we could do a package deal. Let me know if interested im in massillon


----------



## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

Colonite 845, hands down.


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

DHower08 said:


> Also not sure where your at but being a fellow ogfer id give you a deal on a detail. Also if you wanted your tow vehicle and your boat done we could do a package deal. Let me know if interested im in massillon


Thanks for the offer. I'm just south of Cleveland. I really want to take this project on as I've done a pretty good job with my mustang and Harley in the past but if I ever decide to go that route I will definitely keep you in mind.


----------



## moondog5814 (Apr 8, 2007)

The Colonite 845 goes on nice and comes off very easy. Holds up great. I bought a 3 pack on amazon last year for around 30 bucks.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Thats a steal moon dog


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

With all the rave revues on this Colonite 845, you guys have surely convinced me to give it a try.
Thanks!


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

fastwater said:


> With all the rave revues on this Colonite 845, you guys have surely convinced me to get it a try.
> Thanks!


Wait....are you trying it on your's or mine!?!?


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

fastwater said:


> With all the rave revues on this Colonite 845, you guys have surely convinced me to get it a try.
> Thanks!


Put it on THIN. All you need to be able to do is barely see it on the surface if you put more than needed it takes forever to haze and will be hard to get it all off because it wont all be set up.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Will do! 
Thanks for the tip DH. 
By the way...if you weren't so far from me, I'd most likely take ya up on detailing of an 04 Chevy 4dr Silverado with a 6' bed. It's an Alabama truck without a spot of rust on it anywhere and has never been in salt. This fall I'm gonna power wash the undercarriage and rustproof it. Then get several coats of wax on it for the winter. 
Any further suggestions on what I can do???


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Frankie G said:


> Wait....are you trying it on your's or mine!?!?


Well...considering the two trucks, two cars, the bike and boat I think I'm gonna stick to doing mine. Plus, like DHower, you just live too far away. 

Have you ever used any of the Harley Quick Detailer in the pump spray bottle? I've used it on my vehicles and aluminum boat between waxes but not sure if it contains silicone or not. I know it's clearcoat safe.


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

fastwater said:


> Well...considering the two trucks, two cars, the bike and boat I think I'm gonna stick to doing mine. Plus, like DHower, you just live too far away.
> 
> Have you ever used any of the Harley Quick Detailer in the pump spray bottle? I've used it on my vehicles and aluminum boat between waxes but not sure if it contains silicone or not. I know it's clearcoat safe.


No but I do use the Bike Bright on my Street Glide Special

that my salesman turned me on to and that stuff is awesome. Spray it on everything, hose it off, and I use a leaf blower to dry it. I get some chrome spotting which I hit with the Meguiars Quick Detailer and it looks like it just came off the floor!! The bike bright does an AWESOME job on the bare aluminum on the bottom of my boat. I'm pretty sure that stuff is going to take dirt, grime, any any protective coating off though so I've kept it away from the paint on the boat.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Frankie G said:


> No but I do use the Bike Bright on my Street Glide Special
> 
> that my salesman turned me on to and that stuff is awesome. Spray it on everything, hose it off, and I use a leaf blower to dry it. I get some chrome spotting which I hit with the Meguiars Quick Detailer and it looks like it just came off the floor!! The bike bright does an AWESOME job on the bare aluminum on the bottom of my boat.


Yep, the Bike Bright is good stuff. You just have to make sure and rinse it really well and not let any of it dry or like you said, you will get spotting. 
With the Harley Quick Detailer, I found it best to spray it on a rag wiping it on, let it 'dust up' then use another rag to remove. Use a lot less product and get the same results.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

fastwater said:


> Will do!
> Thanks for the tip DH.
> By the way...if you weren't so far from me, I'd most likely take ya up on detailing of an 04 Chevy 4dr Silverado with a 6' bed. It's an Alabama truck without a spot of rust on it anywhere and has never been in salt. This fall I'm gonna power wash the undercarriage and rustproof it. Then get several coats of wax on it for the winter.
> Any further suggestions on what I can do???


Oil spray or better yet fluid film. I managed a rustproofing shope for a while and although your standard rustproofing worka oil or fluid film will work better. No matter what you do it will have to be touched up yearly. Remove door panels tail lights headlights rocker plugs and inner removeable tailgate panel and make sure you coat inside all the panels. Where are you located


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

DHower08 said:


> Oil spray or better yet fluid film. I managed a rustproofing shope for a while and although your standard rustproofing worka oil or fluid film will work better. No matter what you do it will have to be touched up yearly. Remove door panels tail lights headlights rocker plugs and inner removeable tailgate panel and make sure you coat inside all the panels. Where are you located


Lancaster, Ohio area. In Fairfield Co. right on the edge of Hocking Co.

Do you mean any spray oil in a can or is there one that's better than others? 
What about some of the dry lubes with Teflon that are out on the market?


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

The dry lubes will most likely run off easily. If your going to do oil in a can use lithium grease. Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap spray gun and use new or used motor oil. Chain saw bar and chain oil works well due to it being extremely sticky. When sprayed it may need thinned. When you do inside the doors dont use to much or it will tun out for a longgg time you want just enough to coat it and get it to run out of the drain holes. The oil will creep into the door seams to help protect. 

Spray the bottom generously as the oil will slowly get washed away with water from the road open the hood and make sure you get the tops of the frame and cross memebers up their as well. I also spray the firewall and core supports under the hood. A light coating on the face of the pinch welds is also a good idea. As long as you take your time and make sure anywhere their is an exterior body seam you see your coating coming out you know you did a fine job. 

Dont forget to remve your spare tire from underneath to get that area as well, also inside and outside the hitch and bumpers. Pretty much everything except the exterior of the vehicle


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

DHower08 said:


> The dry lubes will most likely run off easily. If your going to do oil in a can use lithium grease. Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap spray gun and use new or used motor oil. Chain saw bar and chain oil works well due to it being extremely sticky. When sprayed it may need thinned. When you do inside the doors dont use to much or it will tun out for a longgg time you want just enough to coat it and get it to run out of the drain holes. The oil will creep into the door seams to help protect.
> 
> Spray the bottom generously as the oil will slowly get washed away with water from the road open the hood and make sure you get the tops of the frame and cross memebers up their as well. I also spray the firewall and core supports under the hood. A light coating on the face of the pinch welds is also a good idea. As long as you take your time and make sure anywhere their is an exterior body seam you see your coating coming out you know you did a fine job.
> 
> Dont forget to remve your spare tire from underneath to get that area as well, also inside and outside the hitch and bumpers. Pretty much everything except the exterior of the vehicle


Okay, Sounds great!
Have had a case of motorcycle chain oil out in the garage for many years and don't have the dirt bikes anymore. Think there's a case of really thick Moly lube out there as well. This would be a good place to put those to use.
Thanks so much for taking the time to give detailed instructions.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Also cut it with a bit of kerosene instead of regular thinner. It will evaporate better as you spray. Dont forget to put a tarp down the undercarrage will drip for a few days


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Will do. 
Yea, I figured it will be good and messy for awhile. And see'in how the trucks white, I'm gonna have to be careful and wipe off runoff that shows. Don't want stains. I know the moly lube has graphite in it and I believe the chain lube does as well.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

The oil shouldnt stain the paint to bad. Youll have over spray all over the truck just wait for it to start to dry then wash it with dikuted degreaser


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

DHower08 said:


> The oil shouldnt stain the paint to bad. Youll have over spray all over the truck just wait for it to start to dry then wash it with dikuted degreaser


Will surely have to do this before I detail the truck.


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

Thanks for all of the advice Fellas! The Colonite 845 is the WAY TO GO!!! I started out with the carpet. Used a medium bristle brush and brushed it completely. Next up was the shop vac.After that a clean pump sprayer with a vinegar and water mixture. Soaked the carpet and hosed her down good. Right behind my office is one of our warehouses that has some great truck ramps with a great angle and perfect for water run off. Then I washed the boat and trailer really well. The carpet was almost dry by then but I still used the shop vac on any really wet spots. I decided to empty all of my compartments and detail them as well. After everything was completely dry it was time for the wax. I did a little area to get a feel for how fast it was going to dry to gauge how far I should go at a time and worked my way all of the way around. I have a road armor trailer so the only thing there that got waxed were the rims, including the spare. I even hit the motor. After removing all of the wax with a couple of extra thick micro fiber rags. I went around with an extra soft toothbrush and any areas in the cracks around the rub rails or rubber gasket/flange between engine and cowl that found some wax got some attention also. It absolutely drives me crazy to see a nice, clean, and fresh wax job only to find that little bit of wax in small crevices!!! Tooth brush also worked great in detailing the TM pedal and crevices in the dash. I bought some marine wipes from Armor All that are supposed to be good for vinyl and plastic and hit all the seats and rub rail with them. I have to say they work awesome and do not leave any greasy feeling at all. 
After all of that it turned out fantastic. I took the boat out today to a place that always leaves a green water line and crap all over the boat that will not come off with just wiping it down after I get it on the trailer. Today, any water that ended up on the gunnels stayed beaded up until the sun dried it and no water spots. The green crap wiped right off with a damp micro fiber cloth. No lie at all....I had a guy come up and say nice new rig. I told him I've had it about a year now and his comment back was that I must not take it out much!!! Other than December through March I've had it out at least once a week if not twice and sometimes 3!!!!


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Keep a bottle of spray wax in the boat. Makes cleaning it even easier. I highly recommend PDP products they can be ordered online. They have a product called body gloss. Excellent spray wax. Can be diluted and still work amazing. One spray bottle can easily get you 4 or 5 bottles if diluted. Ohio auto supply in canton stocks the pdp products could probably find them local to you as well


----------



## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

Just to let anyone in the Columbus area know, Picked up a bottle of this liquid gold Colonite 845 at Andersons of Brice Rd. They only had two bottles left...Pricey stuff though... 19 dollars. But if you only have to use it couple times a year...


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Dovans said:


> Just to let anyone in the Columbus area know, Picked up a bottle of this liquid gold Colonite 845 at Andersons of Brice Rd. They only had two bottles left...Pricey stuff though... 19 dollars. But if you only have to use it couple times a year...


When used correctly that one bottle will last for a few dozen details and thats no joke. Ive done 12 details from the same bottle and have used probably only a 16th of the product


----------



## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

DHower08 said:


> When used correctly that one bottle will last for a few dozen details and thats no joke. Ive done 12 details from the same bottle and have used probably only a 16th of the product


After one use it doesn't even look like I used any. $19 bucks is a bargain.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Agreed frankie. I remember the first time i used it of course i knew better about how much needed to be used than the people that make it. Boy was i wrong!! I used it about 3 times as heavy as i had to. Took forever to dry and way more work than it should have to get it off


----------



## triton175 (Feb 21, 2006)

DHower08 said:


> Agreed frankie. I remember the first time i used it of course i knew better about how much needed to be used than the people that make it. Boy was i wrong!! I used it about 3 times as heavy as i had to. Took forever to dry and way more work than it should have to get it off


I did the same thing a few weeks ago. Used it for the first time and used way too much, about 3-4 ounces on a 21ft boat. I'll know better next time. (Still looks great though)


----------

