# Help! Leaking Boat Fix



## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

I have a 12 foot Jon Boat from about the 1950's (Was my grandpas and when he died i bought it) I use it for fishing and i raptor lined the inside of the boat. which in theory was a great idea except for in an old boat that twists and creaks (not really) the liner started to break and come off. Also i seem to be leaking. Went fishing for about 4 hours last night and had maybe an inch or 2 of water in the boat. So not that big of a deal but id like to stop that. Does anyone know of any paint or sealer i can put on the bottom or even inside to seal this baby up? This boat never goes anywhere but a private 30 acre lake with the max wave height being 6 inchs. Any help would be awesome! Thanks in advance guys!


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## chatterbox (Jan 7, 2013)

I personally would never own any boat with any kind of surface covering except paint So get the boat cleaned up and up off the ground and put a little water inside and look underneath for leaking rivets that can be tightened or replaced. These rivets are very soft and easy to work with. There is also an aluminum welding rod that is used like the old eutectic brazing rod for actual small holes or take to a professional weld shop. Good luck.


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

I got the Raptor Liner from a buddy for helping him do his truck bed. It was free so im not Arguing. The whole boat needs to be painted. im pretty sure all the Rivets leak. the boat is over 50 years old.... Is there a paint that i can put on the outside that would help seal? yet not disrupt the smoothness of the boat?


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Good advice from chatterbox.

Assuming it's a riveted aluminum hull and the leaks are at rivets, naturally the best and most permanent fix is to replace the rivets at the leak and a little on each side of the leak. Very easy and just a matter of drilling out old rivets and installing new with a poprivet gun. Have helped on a couple hull rivet replacements and when we got the bad rivets out, we went down the opened up seam and squeezed in a small bead of 'Gluvit' in the seam and then quickly installed new rivets. Then smeared a thin topcoat of Gluvit over the repaired seam and rivets.
Like chatterbox said, You can try and tighten the existing loose rivets up by peening them a bit with a hammer as they are soft and using Gluvit over the seam and rivets. But if that doesn't totally stop the leak then your back to replacing them. IMO, just as easy and more permanent to replace rivets, seal it with Gluvit and be done. 
You can go to 'iboats.com' or 'thehulltruth' sites for some great step by step info on repairs to aluminum hulls.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

I'm sure a small boat that old has seen a lot of heavy use and it's share of bumps and bruises. A lot of work in repair may never make it leak free and I'll add that there is no easy solution. Understanding it was your Granpa's boat and has significant memory value, why not simply use it as a yard or lakeside display. Something like that, used as a planter and with the properly selected items is something that will last your lifetime and be a nice memorial to Gramps.


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

Thanks for the Advice guys! Ill probably end up replacing them all as it will be easier and then i know its good.

Shortdrift... My dad was 6 when they got the boat. he is now 63.... he has told me stories about the boat. they used to pull people tubing and skiing... hard to believe i know but hey whatever works. I have thought about putting the boat in my yard but there is just something about fishing out of the same boat as them. Its almost more relaxing. When the boat is beyond repair it will then become a yard decoration with flowers and such. but for now she isnt ready to retire.

a good coat of paint and fixed rivets and she will be good. like i said after 4 hours i only had an inch of water. so im not too worried yet. i dont mind a little water i just dont want to sink!!


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

If ya plan on hanging a mtr. on the back you may want to check the wood in the transom while you're at it. If it is rotted, it's not hard to pull the transom top rails off and replace it. Just make sure not to use 'treated' plywood. 
Shortdrift makes a good point that a lot of time and effort can be tied up into a boat that old. But seems to me, the boats built back then were made of heavier ga. aluminum, especially in the keel. Like most other things built back then compared to now, just built better all the way around. 
With the memories you and dad have in that old boat, maybe you could take the mindset of repairing the thing as something like a project and seeing if dad would be interested in joining in. 
If ya have any kids or are planning any, that boat can be fixed to outlast four generations.
I bet dads got some stories about that old boat that you haven't heard about that he'll recall when he gets to working on it. Can almost hear him now.
Sure wish my dad was still around for a few more partner projects.


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## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

Look up Steelflex and Gluv it. Both of those products work well. I'd strip your hull, and apply Gluv it to the seams on the interior, then apply steel flex to the bottom. You'll be in your project about 75 bucks and I would bet anything it'll never leak again. Check tinboats.net for more info on these products, as everyone seems to LOVE their boat after application of them.


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## pitchin (Apr 3, 2005)

Repair Rivets if needed
Not perfect but quick


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Drill out rivets replace with ss bolts nylon lock nuts and nylon washers. Done this more than once it works


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## Eatmybait (Apr 14, 2016)

KayakBass11 said:


> I got the Raptor Liner from a buddy for helping him do his truck bed. It was free so im not Arguing. The whole boat needs to be painted. im pretty sure all the Rivets leak. the boat is over 50 years old.... Is there a paint that i can put on the outside that would help seal? yet not disrupt the smoothness of the boat?


Fiberglasssupplydepot.com Has steelflex that I sealed my 14' starcraft seals all leaks and is very smooth after the drying period. Works great


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## pitchin (Apr 3, 2005)

I like the SS bolts/nylon washers/lock nut Idea


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## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

Could always use 3m 5200 on the leaky seams/rivets. I've done this to entire seams on my riveted boats and it works wonders. The stuff is terribly thick and annoying sometimes, but still worth it, and it's a cheap quick fix.


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

5200 is kick ass... Mask off the seam approximately 1/8" away from the seam to keep the mess down. Tighten the rivets with a center punch or drift pin. Have a buddy hold a 8# sledge hammer against the head of the rivet, then tighten it up with a ball peen hammer and a punch. It takes time, but it will work.


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## Rabbeye (Oct 28, 2013)

Try flex steel, I think that is the name There is an infomercial on tv They have a screen door on the bottom of a boat spray over it and no water comes in. Or if you can figure out where it is leaking try some jb weld on those spots. Bottom of my duck boat has about 6 tubes of that on it from going through ice and it works. Your boat is Probably only leaking in 1 or 2 spots. I highly doubt you need to tighten all the rivets. Put it in the water and watch where it is coming in. Could it be your drain plug isn't tight?


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

Rabbeye said:


> Try flex steel, I think that is the name There is an infomercial on tv They have a screen door on the bottom of a boat spray over it and no water comes in. Or if you can figure out where it is leaking try some jb weld on those spots. Bottom of my duck boat has about 6 tubes of that on it from going through ice and it works. Your boat is Probably only leaking in 1 or 2 spots. I highly doubt you need to tighten all the rivets. Put it in the water and watch where it is coming in. Could it be your drain plug isn't tight?


This boat doesnt have a drain plug. Must bee too damn old. Im pretty sure i found the leak and it is in the back of the boat and upfront where the anchor used to tie off. Im waiting to go get some flex seal and im going to fix those too spots. but then this winter in going to put all new rivets in and re seal the whole boat.


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## Doboy (Oct 13, 2008)

(geeeee I hate asking this question all the time!)

*KB11,,, WHERE DO YOU LIVE?* 
I pert-near re-built my '71 21' Starcraft,,,, Fixed bullet holes in boats & canoes,,,, & replaced transom board, rivets, torn rear corners on a 12'er, that was over-turned in a wreck.
So,,,,
I have the rivet punches & anvils,,,, 200+ rivets & 3 types of sealers,,,,,aluminum welding rod, hot glue, etc etc in a drawer. 
Someday, I'm gonna have'ta throw all this CRAP in a dumpster.
Anyway,,, If you lived near Youngstown, I could fix ya up.

Best, easiest caulk I ever used; (Banner Supply sells it)
http://www.buymbs.com/p-2517-geocel..._Com&utm_medium=Product_CPC&utm_campaign=7258


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

Im from Geauga County. I might have to take you up on that offer this winter. I found out that the hole in the back is just because it is old and its not a rivet. the actual alum bent so im going to use my hammer and a steel block for straightening sheet metal out and fix it that way for now. then this winter i will re do the whole damn thing.


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## Doboy (Oct 13, 2008)

KayakBass11 said:


> Im from Geauga County. I might have to take you up on that offer this winter. I found out that the hole in the back is just because it is old and its not a rivet. the actual alum bent so im going to use my hammer and a steel block for straightening sheet metal out and fix it that way for now. then this winter i will re do the whole damn thing.



10-4
Later


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

Doboy said:


> 10-4
> Later


Do you know how to weld aluminum?


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## snag (Dec 27, 2005)

Try j b weld on the crack - ding it will fill any void and gets rock hard to sand and paint, used it on a small Jon I had that the battery dented the drain plug tube.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Just remember, whatever epoxy, sealer etc. you use to fill in temporarily you'll most likely have to remove when you do it right and re-rivet it.
Some of that stuff like JB Weld or other two part epoxy's you almost have to take a grinder to to remove it.
If I were gonna make a temporary repair, I'd use something that stayed pliable.


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

I have come up with a conclusion....

Sense i am already taking the boat apart to fix it this winter. I am also going to convert it to a "bass boat" Just going to lift up the seats and add a platform in the front and in the back. that will at least eliminate my stuff getting wet. also it will be removable and not a permanent thing. I will probably end up just getting all new rivets and going about it that way. i found out where it is leaking last night (before the cavs won) there is a small hole in the back and in the front (as i stated before) the rivets are holding solid. 

Have any of you guys ever added platforms to your jon boats? 

Again. thank you for all the help guys! i really appreciate it!


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

If its a small jon it will be very unstable with decks. As far as the cracks/pin holes the best way to fix them would be to use duraglass or glassmat/resin it will be stronger than the aluminum itsself ive welded jon boats before with tig and they are so thin that typically what will happen is the heat stresses the rest of the metal and it will continue to spread over time. 
If its a few small holes run a ss screw into them with some rtv between the head of the screw and the boat and then grind down the pointed end of the screw flush with the boat


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## KayakBass11 (Mar 25, 2015)

Im not going to make the decks very high. right now between the seats and the lip there is about a foot. and im going to add 3/4 inch plywood ontop of the seats. so it wont raise up that much. just to make it more comfortable and easier to fish out of


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

Glass boats are glass, aluminum boats are aluminum. Don't put glass on an aluminum hull. Use a sealant (5200) that can be removed, and rivets, like the factory. Nowhere in my 1978 Grumman did I use any duraglass, job weld, or mat cloth and resin. Replace missing rivets, tighten existing loose rivets and it will work great!


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