# Help with adding wiring to boat??



## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

Hello everyone, I have a small 14ft boat that I recently put a nice deck on like a bass boat. Until lately, I have only used this boat on large private ponds. Now though, I want to rebuild it to make it better for public land hunting and fishing. In doing so, I thought I will do this the right way.

With the rebuild, I want to add:
-red/green nav light
-white anchor light
-small LED light bar for better lighting for decoys while hunting
-Depth finder
-bilge pump
-trolling motor

Without having 6 things on the single group 31 battery I have, is there a fuse block or switch panel option for wiring? I have no experience wiring though learn quickly..Also, I have an electrical engineer that I could ask this to, but that will be about 2 weeks before I see him. Do I need to consider waterproof housings for the fuses? (I would think so.. but again, idk).

Also, The main purpose of this boat is hunting, not fishing. As a result, I really don't care only having this one battery for everything as I don't fish at night much, nor use a trolling motor often fishing. The boat will have the outboard for far travel, then trolling motor when I get in distance of birds or deer spots while hunting to keep noise down.

Any tips, help, or links are appreciated!


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## BankAngler (Aug 20, 2008)

if you rarely use it at night, I would get clamp on battery operated bow and stern lights.


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## fishincontrol (Jul 9, 2009)

I can't attest to the quality but something like this might be great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-GANG-WATE...-ROCKER-SWITCH-PANEL-AUTO-FUSES-/201201538586
Has a fuse and switch for 6 devices. Uses common fuses you can buy anywhere.

I personally would not put fish finder on a switch since most have an on/off switch.
Trolling motor will draw too much current to be put on a switch. The rest could be wired to this quite nicely.


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## brettmansdorf (Apr 5, 2013)

PERSONAL OPINION...
Use dual solid copper wires (12ga) run inside old air hose (nylon, poly, rubber, whatever) from batt (s) to a a ST blade box (blue sea 6 is under 30 bucks and is really nice). Mount one upside down on a cut piece or sheet of through wall flashing or rubber, as the front of the boat - and wire everything up there to it. You can get even fancier with conduit (ENT or LNMF), but the old air hose usually outlasts the boat.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5035/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Independent_Circuits_with_Cover

2/3 of the world will argue using 12ga stranded is better. I've used solid core for 30 years and NEVER seen a failure in main line (from the battery to the bus). I've replaced at least 20 failed stranded. One long (actually two) solid core wire - run inside sheathing and SOLDERED at each connector. Leave yourself a loop at both ends for later adjustments (roughly a foot).

In the back you won't need to be as fancy - but can be. They actually sell a unit which ties directly into the battery terminal - but I'd suggest a short line and mount on the transom - again on rubber, with a quick release cover to protect from spray.

Buy LED lights ONLY - and decent ones - they use almost no energy and have very little variance in what they draw.

As to the trolling motor - you can run it off the suggested item for the front (as long as its under 40a).

DO IT RIGHT and you will NEVER regret it.


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## r1verr4t (Apr 25, 2015)

I would use stranded wire at the least. That's what I use.
Tinned stranded if you have the money. I do not. I have not had problems with what I use thus far which has been for long enough to know that's all I need.

P.S. the only hit you really have one your battery is the trolling motor. Everything else will run on next to nothing IMHO.


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