# Flicker Shad dive chart & line choice



## RiparianRanger

my understanding is the dive depth chart that comes with flicker shad assumes 10 lb test diameter line, as is the case with other “dive to” tank tested depths such as Rapala. Is there a rule of thumb how to modify the dive depth chart if running heavier line like 17 lb test? I’d like to go with heavier line to buy a few precious seconds when the lure inevitably snags. The concern is the imprecision around what depth the lure is running when dragging it on a trolling rod strung with heavier line. Thanks


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## Bluegillford

RiparianRanger said:


> my understanding is the dive depth chart that comes with flicker shad assumes 10 lb test diameter line, as is the case with other “dive to” tank tested depths such as Rapala. Is there a rule of thumb how to modify the dive depth chart if running heavier line like 17 lb test? I’d like to go with heavier line to buy a few precious seconds when the lure inevitably snags. The concern is the imprecision around what depth the lure is running when dragging it on a trolling rod strung with heavier line. Thanks


not that it will be exact, but what I sometimes do is go to the bow of the boat and extend all the way forward and let off 30' of line. you should mark lure on your graph, and that will get you close. I have an 18' boat and am extending 10' in front.


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## ristorap

The 10 lb test is for reference the line diameter is important. The spiderline super mono diameter is smaller so 12 lb test is 10 lb test diameter - the dive curve is the same. The 17 lb would run 3-5 ft shallower . You could just let more line out. The dive books had a chart on line test and diameter to match depths.


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## dgfidler

I hang these all the time while trolling on Alum. Just don’t set your drag so tight that your line breaks in a snag. If you’re using a line counter reel turn the clicker on and you’ll know when to stop, clear your other lines and double back. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Saugeyefisher

dgfidler said:


> I hang these all the time while trolling on Alum. Just don’t set your drag so tight that your line breaks in a snag. If you’re using a line counter reel turn the clicker on and you’ll know when to stop, clear your other lines and double back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm with you. Imo if your losing cranks on the snag in the first few seconds your drag is set way to heavy. If your trolling you can prevent alot of lost lures bye backing off the drag. This way the hooks dont set into that stump or what ever your snagged on. Alot of time just lifting the rod tip and popping the the line a few times will get. If not let your drag slip why you get stopped/turned around an go back over it to get it free. Also when trolling cranks on inland lakes imo I like having the least amount of line out I have to put out to get desired depths,for more control,and to make it easier to follow contours and make turns. I like using braid for this. Your gonna have to let out an awfull lot of 17lb test mono ot floro to get a flicker shad down to its max diving depth.
Then if your casting they dive even shallower do to angles and amount of line out.


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## RiparianRanger

Thanks everyone. I’m running line counters. The 3-5 feet reference is helpful. I can start there and adjust accordingly


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