# whopper popper



## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

I have be fooling around on UL version of WP. I have buddie's pestering me to build them. I'm not looking to go into business again so I have decided to farm bodies out to be 3D printed in halves. Wire and such I can form myself. I'm looking for a " propeller" I can't find anything for sale that is the screw type propeller. If anyone has any ideas on this I would like to hear them.
It will probably be 3D printed too. The weight of the prop is critical when making a UL plug of this type as well as blade pitch. I need to come up with a working model before I send off to have printed.


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## Lewzer (Apr 5, 2004)

Are you looking to make one of these smaller than a 90? I never used a wp or even seen one so I do not know what sizes are available.


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## meisjedog (Oct 4, 2010)

I made a parametric(scale to any size) Solidworks model of one - worked well. I printed them on end as a shell with the intent to make the prop changeable. (btw- at the time most printers could not print a single thick perimeter but I built the printer and used cnc router software to drive it) The printed tail work beautifully once I got it balanced. I printed it out of clear PLA, even though it does not appear clear in the photo. I also put holographic material in the bottom which looked very fishy. The tail was a one-hit-wonder though as they would rip the prop off every time a good fish hit. Ended up using soft plastic from a fluke to make the tail, but then it would not spin correctly because it was a bit too bulky. I still have it, but it is one of those back-shelf projects. 

One thing though - those props would throw a roostertail a foot in the air when you cranked it fast. It had a different sound depending on the tail and drove the fish nuts - much more so than the commercial version.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

I'm looking to go 1/2 size of 90. I have already decided to deviate from original body, the blade is the lure. I'm only interested in black and 3D guys tell me they can use black material/ filiment to print it. I've made a couple by laminating balsa together for body. I did this so I could form front hook dropper one piece with main shaft. That also keeps whole plug from wanting to rotate on wire. Rear section was cork with plastic bushing to turn on wire. I formed prop out of thin Alumilum from a peanut can. Worked great, one dink wrecked the prop.


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## meisjedog (Oct 4, 2010)

Yeah, you can print just about any color, glow in the dark as well as flexible materials(not sure how well that would hold up). I printed mine at 3 inches in length with a 1.75mm wall which made it slightly easier to put most of the weight in the belly which kept it from spinning. 

You could print a mold and then pour something flexible to make the prop or print the prop and then make a mold. Maybe something like that DIY recipe using 100% Silicone with baking power might hold up?

I remember I used craft foam for the first version of the prop, but it was too buoyant and would not spin. I didn't think about it at the time, but coating it in a flexible epoxy might have fixed that problem. It's the tiny cup shape on the tail that traps air and makes it sound like you are blowing bubbles through a straw - change that and it will sound different. 

It seems like it would be easy, but I spent about two weeks trying to get it balanced. It would either want to ride too high in the front or dive. It looked good in a Tupperware bowl but fished much different with 30 feet of line out.

I thought it would be interesting to print a frog shape and have two little props in the back for the legs. Sounds fishy in theory anyway!


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

Yes, the prop is the lure and the problem. The body is just a float. I have scaled lures up and didn't have any major problems. Scaling down to UL other than simple floaters is always a PIA. They can look perfect and do nothing but follow the line.


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## meisjedog (Oct 4, 2010)

You might get some $1 buzz baits from Walmart and reuse the aluminum for the blade. Heating it red hot with a blowtorch will anneal it, and it can be formed rather easy. Let it air cool though, don't quench it in water or it will become brittle - you may know this. I typically get a couple of pounds of sand and put it in some pillowcases and use that to form it on. Wooden dowels with the ends rounded off would work. Just an idea.

The commercial version of the tail looks to be made of flexible PVC. The same stuff aquarium airline hosing is made from. Once you have your aluminum prop done, you could try getting some larger diameter(thinner) aquarium hose and an old toaster oven(wife will not like this indoors and is very toxic anyway), cut a piece of hose, drape it over the aluminum and slowly heat it until it becomes soft enough to take the desired shape. Again, PVC is nasty when heated, so don't breath it in! - I'm sure you know. I've done similar things with an acrylic sheet in our oven and it gets soft enough to vacuum form at about 150 degrees.








Main body - One perimeter thickness with a removable plug at the end so it could be tuned. The clear looks a little rough - clear was the new thing a few years ago so it did not print as well. Printing this in black, which I pitched in the trash looked flawless - I wanted clear. I can always make more though!!

Just a thought.
If you have them print it standing up and then print or make a plug for the end, you won't have to deal with gluing the two halves together.

Post some pics!!!













Soft plastic Fluke tail - too thick, does not cut the water which is key - horrible tail fail!!!

Oh yeah, some 3d printed plastics are hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb water, swell a bit and stop your tail from spinning. They sell tiny UHMW, Nylon, Aluminum, etc. bushings at Mcmaster which would be a solution if this happens.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

My protos of balsa have had a series of Plopper sections. I began with alum buzz cut down, to heavy. Formed my own alum blade from top of peanut can, to soft. Tried to use piece of plastic 3wing buzz several different ways including heat gun. Tail itself has been balsa, cork and closed cell foam with blade spliced in and glued. I used a piece of radio antenna for through bushing on this section and also plastic tube and buzz rivet in both ends. I sent a factory WP to friend into 3D heavy and he thinks he can come up with something to match it. Still sticking with 2 piece body.


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## allwayzfishin (Apr 30, 2008)

Why not try using fake nails? You know, women’s fake finger nails? Cut and shape with a dremel


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