# Fish finder



## Fish-N-Dip72 (May 21, 2013)

Looking to get a fish finder / gps for the boat. I know it comes down to preference on brand but I wanna hear what you guys have to say about humminbird and lowrance. I'm looking at the lowrance hds7 and the humminbird 899ci. So let me hear it thanks guys tight lines


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

Look at the features installed, and what accessories are needed. Compatibility such as map chips, antennae, networking with TM or other units. Sometimes this raises the total cost most of the time. I am looking to do the same. Price wise The HB Helix 5 is a stand alone unit at a decent price. Most importantly is what you want out of the unit? hope this helps.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I'm a Lowrance guy and I do have an HDS 7&8. I like what I have and wouldn't trade it for a Bird. However there a bunch of Bird guys out there who feel the same about their units so it's kind of like what James said, personal preference. 
From a lot of research I did when I bought mine a few years ago it was pretty common to hear the Low had a better Down Imaging but the Birds had a little better Side Imaging.
One think I would suggest is to go to a store where they have both of the units on display and push some buttons. See how they feel and see what features they offer.

I'm sure whatever unit you ultimately decide on you'll get good performance from it.
Good luck with it.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

I just thought I'd share something that I learned recently, that may have a bearing on a persons choice on the make of depth finder they may buy. It has to do with the advertised cone angles for the transducers that come with the unit. 

IMO transducer cone angle is something that everyone using a depth finder should be interested in, because it determines how much of the water column, and how much of the bottom will end up being shown on your screen. The smaller the cone angle, the less of the water column, and the less of the bottom will be shown. The larger the cone angle, the more of the water column and the more of the bottom will be shown.

Be aware .... all advertised cone angles may not be what they seem, because the testing criteria varies between some manufacturers.

The following is something I came upon while researching what the cone angles are for a Lowerance 83/200kHz transducer. 

"In order to measure the transducer's cone angle, the power is first measured at the center or axis of the cone and then compared to the power as you move away from the center. When the power drops to half (or -3db[decibels] in electronic terms), the angle from that center axis is measured. The total angle from the -3db point on one side of the axis to the -3db point on the other side of the axis is called the cone angle."

"This half power point (-3db) is a standard for the electronics industry and most manufacturers measure cone angle in this way, but a few use the -10db point where the power is 1/10 of the center axis power. This gives a greater angle, as you are measuring a point further away from the center axis. Nothing is different in transducer performance; only the system of measurement has changed. For example, a transducer that has an 8 degree cone angle at -3db would have a 16 degree cone angle at -10db."


While the next to the last sentence I quoted says that nothing is different about the transducer performance, the last sentence points out something that could lead to a perception of expanded bottom coverage. 

So before you buy a specific manufacturers unit over another manufacturers unit because you think you'll be seeing more of the bottom based on the cone angle being advertised .... check to see what their testing criteria is.


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## papaperch (Apr 12, 2004)

Might want to factor Garmin into your FF/Gps combo also. Dyed in the wool Humminbird guy myself BUT. Testing out a Garmin Echomap 70S this year. The Lake VU HD Ultra mapping chip is nothing short of awesome. 

The unit itself is on clearance at many retailers. SI and DI is possible with an add on box. 
For some odd reason Cabelas is one of the companies that has not lowered their price on this unit. Still selling for north of a thousand there. But commonly available at other sites between 490-525. Depending on package.

You can make choice as complicated as you want but any one of these three companies Lowrance, Humminbird and Garmin. Make a unit that will fill your need and limit of your wallet.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Fish-n-Dip, I don't want to highjack your thread, but I thought this would be a good place to ask my questions as I'm in the same boat (pun intended!!) as you. Please let me know if I should start my own thread.

I'm looking for around the same price range / finder as the OP, but will be exclusively fishing the same local lake as my boat will be docked all year. My questions from doing reasearch...

- How important is side imaging?
- How important is sonar?
- If you only use your finder to bass fish, is there a detail you can't live without?

Thanks!


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## Fish-N-Dip72 (May 21, 2013)

No you're totally fine I think those are great questions 


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

Bassbme  With all that great info I was hoping you would have provided us some manufacturers names and testing methods.any way I do appreciate the posts. I watched some vids on HB's newest units on Lakemaster auto and live charting on any body of water, and no subscription required.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Bucks4life said:


> - How important is side imaging?
> - How important is sonar?
> - If you only use your finder to bass fish, is there a detail you can't live without?
> 
> Thanks!


As a very minimum I would want at least a GOOD 2d sonar PLUS GPS. I would also want the biggest screen I could afford. Even if all you can afford is a hand held GPS that's okay, they work just fine.

How important is side imaging? I guess that depends on how you fish. 
I like SI for looking for new cover. I mostly use it in water under 20' deep and I set the unit to see about 3x the water depth. If I see something I mark it with GPS and go back over it with the DI and if I like what I find I keep the waypoint. If not, I just delete the waypoint. SI is good for a search tool. I don't use SI everyday but it doesn't mean it's not important. A lot of time I use SI to scan an area and then if I decide to fish I switch to 2d or DI (or both).
How important is sonar? I'm assuming you mean 2d vs. DI. Honestly they both show you the same thing, they just show it to you differently. The info Bassbme brought up about cone angles does make a difference in coverage but to ME, it's not something I care about. I will say I used to pay attention to it 20 years ago. 
If you only use your finder to bass fish, is there a detail you can't live without? GPS It just makes returning to offshore cover easier to return to.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

James F .... You mentioned the Helix from Humminbird as a recommendation of sorts? I've always been a Lowrance guy and am not familiar with Humminbird units at all, so I looked up the Helix. Humminbird's advertised cone angles for the Helix were twice what Lowrance's are at the same operating frequencies. 

Cone angle is directly related to the amount of bottom coverage, as well as the amount of water covered for fish detection, so it's something I would always look at if I were buying a new unit. When looking up the Helix to see it's features I noticed Humminbird's test criteria uses the -10db as their test number, versus Lowrance using -3db as their test number. That's why their advertised cone angles are wider. As I said .... that could be misleading if you took them at face value. I didn't mention manufacturers because I didn't want it to come off as bashing any one particular unit.

I understand that some people may not be worried about cone angles, but I am. If cone angle weren't important, there would be no reason I'd be interested in spending over $1,000 for a unit capable of side imaging. After all .... side imaging is taking cone angle to the extreme. 

As far as Bucks4life's questions go, how important is sonar? VERY important. Even if you're a shallow water fisherman. Let's say you're fishing along the shore throwing to visible targets. You're doing well in some areas but not as well in others. Without a depth finder you wouldn't know that the areas you were doing well in may have had deeper water closer to shore. Lets not forget it can warn you of shallow water obstacles that could cause damage to your boat, or you, if you were to hit bottom while running at high speed. Sonar is a must.

Side imaging? As Crappiedude said ... it depends on how you fish. If your bass fishing is going to be limited to visual targets, then side imaging probably isn't going to be very important to you. If you plan on chasing bass off shore, then side imaging is very helpful in finding those off shore spots. With side imaging you don't have to pass almost directly over something in order to see it on your screen. 

To give an example. A 200 kHz transducer with a 20 degree cone angle, which is pretty much standard, covers a circle of the bottom approximately 1/3 of the depth of water you're in. In 15' of water, you're seeing a 5' diameter circle of the bottom. If you're new to depth finders and are wondering why you aren't seeing fish on your screen, the above numbers could provide a clue.

As far as GPS ..... I'd rate it higher than side imaging in usefulness. Navigation in the fog, or in the dark. Navigation in shallow water. Which comes in very handy in the fall when the bigger reservoirs go through their draw downs. Retracing a safe path back the ramp, retracing a successful trolling or drifting pass. Getting back to that rock pile or that particular spot on a drop off. GPS is great. If you can afford it, get it.


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

Bassbme! I really appreciate all the effort you put into you answers, As of now I am currently using an Eagle320( a little outdated) your knowledge of what a unit does regardless of who makes it is helping me to understand what I would need in a unit. Like most we want the biggest bang for our bucks. In my case the less complicated the better! I am a multi- species fisherman and can only afford one unit, and the selections are staggering  I am trying to avoid purchasing a unit that will limit my options to upgrade; either to an I-Pilot or to possibly interface with another unit ( if I were to suddenly come into $$$$) sometime in the future. I like the HB 798's and some of the 800 series prices are dropping. I am not ruling out Lowrance units, but I seem to be drawn towards HB's.I think that has something to do with the I-Pilot interfacing, and my constant need for the latest toy's. And these relate mostly to be able to concentrate on fishing and not all boat control which can and does wear me out at the end of the day. Thanks for all your help!


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

James F, regarding your comment on the effort I put into my posts. I take that as a compliment, thank you. But there's really no effort involved. I'm a fishing junky and I love talking fishing. I certainly don't have all the answers, and while I understand the why's of certain functions of depth finders, I am new to some of the aspects of depth finders these days. Crappiedude and another member Wallyandre were very helpful to me with some questions I had about Lowrance's HDS units. 

The Eagle 320 you mentioned having, while basic, is a good unit. I've been running one either at the console or on the front deck for at least 10 years. I don't know where you plan on mounting the new unit you're planning on buying, but two depth finders, one at the console or tiller, and one on the front deck if you have one, is definitely a plus. Just a thought. 

One thing that I would say is essential in selecting a new unit is, regardless of the manufacturer you choose, is a color display for the 2D mode. It's night and day between the gray scale of the 320. Much easier viewing in sunlight and much easier to distinguish differences in bottom hardness. Which is something that I personally find important. 

Smart thinking about getting a unit that allows upgrades. Even if they're more costly on initial purchase, it saves you money down the road. While I Pilot isn't something I'd be interested in, I understand what you're saying about wanting boat control to be less tiring. Last year I got a new trolling motor for my boat. It has a constant run position activated by a toggle switch. It was something I would have thought was useless in the past, but after having used it, it really takes some of the feeling of being a chore, out of boat control 

Anyhow ...... enjoy your search for a new unit.

Oh, and if you have a bow mount trolling motor that uses a foot pedal for steering and you really want to take a tiring aspect out of using your trolling motor. Especially if you stand up while operating it ...... get a recess tray for the foot pedal. HUGE difference in comfort while using the foot pedal. 

Of course you have to be willing to cut a pretty big hole in your front deck. But it is WELL worth the price of admission.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Bassbme, and cappiedude... Thanks a ton for the detailed answer to my questions. Being able to make informed decisions when purchasing a Fish Finder is worth almost as much as the money I'm going to spend! There's nothing worse than buying stuff in the blind!

Fish-N-Dip, thanks for letting me in on your thread!

Tight lines everyone!


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

I know what you mean about the recessed foot pedal, I am a welder and use one a lot!! now my back gives me fits. I will be building the front deck so I can make adjustments for just about anything, my boat is a frame for mods just so I can fish in comfort. I've suffered in the past because of my passion for fishing, as most of have, just to make one more cast or catch one more fish :B


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## steelneyes2 (Jul 19, 2011)

I was a dedicated Lowrance user and just switched over to Humminbird so I have a lot of experience with both units. Both have their strengths, weaknesses, or more accurately quirks.
The main reason I switched was for compatability with I pilot Link. This was just prior to Motorguide releasing their XI5. 
I would echo much of what has been said here already but add a couple small points. 
The technology jump as far as sonar on any unit you choose will be incredible compared to the eagle 320. Not a bad unit, but as stated limited by the technology of the time. 
The Humminbird Helix series appears to be awesome sonar for the money. BUT be aware that it is priced as such. It does not allow for networking or mapping cards.
Lowrance units tend to be more expensive than Humminbird, but Humminbird cables will eat up your budget if you plan to network several units and do I pilot Link later. 
And since I guess I'll throw in an opinion that may be tougher to document factually, Humminbird tends to support older units with software upgrades even several years after they stop producing them. The worst part of electronics is spending thousands of dollars and being told since you don't have the newest unit, you should dump it 18 months later because it can't do something that would really benefit your boat and fishing style.
Also, Feb. to June is the season for really good pricing and rebates. Everyone is fighting for your dollar. Keep your eyes open to really good deals and you may be able to move up an entire screen size.


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## papaperch (Apr 12, 2004)

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=NPuVs0ViMrY"]The advantages of LakeVÃ¼â¢ HD and LakeVÃ¼ HD Ultra Maps - YouTube[/ame]

Have invested heavily in Humminbird. But here is why I will be field testing a Garmin 70S
Echomap this year. If it is impressive in action as in its reviews. Will be buying a Garmin 93dv later this year


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

The competition in electronics is Phenomenal! I have been trying to keep up with the advances and my head is spinning Garmin is definitely in the running. Matching a unit with a Bow mount TM is something that attracts many of us in the hopes making fishing easier than spending most of our time on boat control. So many choices and so little money :B I'm not one for going in debt in the hopes of catching more fish! If I can afford to pay for it with cash I can rest easy knowing I don't have another payment hanging over my head! Now to continue my quest for another unit, Thanks for the tip on the time to purchase. I know most places want sell off their inventory to stock the newest units.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Bassbme said:


> I understand that some people may not be worried about cone angles, but I am. If cone angle weren't important, there would be no reason I'd be interested in spending over $1,000 for a unit capable of side imaging. *After all .... side imaging is taking cone angle to the extreme.
> *
> 
> As far as GPS ..... I'd rate it higher than side imaging in usefulness. Navigation in the fog, or in the dark. Navigation in shallow water. Which comes in very handy in the fall when the bigger reservoirs go through their draw downs. Retracing a safe path back the ramp, retracing a successful trolling or drifting pass. Getting back to that rock pile or that particular spot on a drop off. GPS is great. If you can afford it, get it.


Cone angles...let me explain. 
What draws me to a new unit or an electronics upgrade is the features it offers. Once a particular unit catches my eye I then start looking at the specs. If it has what I like, I buy it.
*Cone angles only applies to 2d sonar*. To those who don't understand the signal from your sonar transducer is like an inverted ice cream cone with the base getting bigger as the cone angle increases. With some units you have a choice of 2 different transducers with 1 being designed for ocean fishing and 1 designed for inland waters. From my understanding this has to do with the extreme depths encountered in off shore fishing. 
On DI units the transducer is looking at an oblong shaped area. The signal is wider out to the sides than it is deep.
For SI units the transducer is looking at the water like an upside down turkey tail that's fanned out to the sides. There is no depth to the signal.

I think most electronics are designed with "Joe Average" in mind.
I do think that understanding how your unit operates is important. 
Having an understanding of the units capabilities and what it's showing you is important. 
On units with a smaller cone angle the accuracy of a target in relation to the transducer increases. By that I mean it is closer to being directly under the transducer rather than off to one side or the other. If you "see" a stump, is it really under you or off to the side? Back in the day when I was younger I used to over think almost everything. 
Now, I'm more inclined to accept things; "it is what it is".

I do understand that a larger cone angle does "see" a larger area but weather I'm looking at a 30" or a 33" area in 10 fow isn't going to be a deal breaker for me. 

..and the GPS.
Those are great points about the GPS, the safety aspect.
When we go to Ky Lake each year we run a lot of the waters in the dark. One of the things to be careful of is the navigation buoys. Even though they are shown on my charts, their location is more general since they can move, it's not exact. Since hitting one in the dark is a real possibility I marked the ones that concern me with a red X so when I'm running in the dark I can avoid them.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

So much stuff to try and wrap your brain around!! Ugh!

I wish I was rich... I could afford to buy without regret!!


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Bucks4life said:


> So much stuff to try and wrap your brain around!! Ugh!
> 
> I wish I was rich... I could afford to buy without regret!!
> 
> ...


Just learn to use whatever you decide to buy and you won't have any regrets. All the units will show you what's down there. They all just show it to you in varying amounts and clarity of detail.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Crappiedude .... You're correct, my phrasing of side imaging taking cone angle to the extreme was incorrect. It isn't a cone in the true sense of the word, since as you said, it doesn't have the same depth of field in all directions. Being a "the devil is in the details" kind of guy, I appreciate the correction. With that being said, it does sweep the water to what I presume, is a 90 degree angle to each side. Perhaps saying it takes the angle of detection to an extreme would have been more accurate for me to say. At least that is what I was trying to imply. As you said, cone angle in the true sense of the word, only applies to 2D sonar. 

Really the only reason I've been bringing up cone angles at all, is because I've seen a number of members questioning why they aren't seeing any fish on their screens. There could be a number of reasons for that, but I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that people think there is more water being covered by their sonar, than there actually is.

Anyhow ..... I love discussing this kind of stuff. I really can't wait until I get my new unit. I'm looking forward to exploring some of this newer technology. 

Bucks4life .... don't let some of the things you've read here make you apprehensive about buying a depth finder. As Crappiedude said earlier .... manufacturers make their units with the average user in mind. They're really not hard to operate.


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## Fish-N-Dip72 (May 21, 2013)

All this info has been amazing! I really appreciate everyone's contribution! Now to get the money together for our new unit. 


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Bassbme, like you I like talking about this stuff. I've learned a lot from reading forums and asking questions. From reading some of your posts and looking at your questions I feel you have a very good understanding of electronics. You certainly know your stuff.
I mostly posted my reply about cone angles and transducers to hopefully help some of the folks who may be new to fishing electronics so I hopefully could help them understand what their electronics are looking at.
I agree with you assessment of people's understanding of just how little water their sonars are actually viewing, it's not much area for sure. It may still be true today but back a few years with some units you could actually get a wider cone transducer for your unit. It was especially helpful for guys who only fish shallow water. As you said their are a bunch of reasons for a unit to not show fish. 
One other point I'd like to make is all these units are all doing the exact same thing. Sure some of the units will make some pretty pictures, some will show you some pretty colors but you don't need to have the latest and great units to catch a fish. As in many things in life you do have to take the time to learn how the unit works.
If money is not a problem, I say buy the biggest you can afford.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

I was watching a youtube vid of a so called expert and he said that standard cone angles for almost all finders are 1:1 (1' down - 1' across). Meaning in 10' of water you would be looking at 10' of bottom. From what I read here that is grossly over exaggerated?

This is why I hate going to any electronics store... Fish finders, Tv's, Audio... It almost always turns out I know more than the salesman who is trying to sell it to me just by doing a little homework before going to purchase.

Thanks again for all the info... Invaluable resource!


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Bucks4life said:


> I was watching a youtube vid of a so called expert and he said that standard cone angles for almost all finders are 1:1 (1' down - 1' across). Meaning in 10' of water you would be looking at 10' of bottom. From what I read here that is grossly over exaggerated?


Yes, a 1:1 ratio is grossly exaggerated. For instance. I have a depth finder on the front deck of my boat. It's a 200 kHz transducer with an advertised cone angle of 20 degrees. I like to use a drop shot for fishing deeper water. When I drop it in the water right beside my trolling motor, I can see it on the screen when it's about 2' below the bottom of the trolling motor, which is where the transducer is mounted. I can watch it go completely to the bottom in 15' of water, and as long as I'm keeping my rod tip right beside my trolling motor, I can see it on my screen. If I move my rod to the side, I can see it on the screen until my rod tip gets about 5' away from the trolling motor. Then it's gone from the screen. 

Another example .... I used to ice fish and I'd take the front unit off my boat and take it out on the ice with me, and I'd have the transducer down the same hole I was fishing through. When I'd put a live minnow on the hook and let it go down to the bottom, I could watch it go down on my screen. I'd usually keep it about 1' off the bottom. As I fished I would watch the screen for a fish to appear. The minnow also knew the fish was there because it would start swimming to try and get away. I would watch this take place on the screen. If I was using a larger minnow, there would be times when it would actually swim far enough to where I could no longer see it on the screen. This was taking place in 12-15' of water.

Now if it was a 1:1 ratio, there is no way that minnow could have swam far enough to leave the area being covered by my depth finder. 

On a side note..... watching that happen while ice fishing was ultra cool. Seeing your bait and watching the fish come up and then not seeing your bait and knowing a fish just ate it. lol 

That's why I like drop shotting so much. There have been many times when I've seen a fish on my depth finder and dropped my rig down and seen the fish and my bait, become one. Sight fishing in 20' of water LOL

And Crappiedude, thank you for the compliment. You too know your stuff. And my reasons for posting are the same as yours. Just trying to help those with a little less experience.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Bassbme said:


> Yes, a 1:1 ratio is grossly exaggerated. For instance. I have a depth finder on the front deck of my boat. It's a 200 kHz transducer with an advertised cone angle of 20 degrees. I like to use a drop shot for fishing deeper water. When I drop it in the water right beside my trolling motor, I can see it on the screen when it's about 2' below the bottom of the trolling motor, which is where the transducer is mounted. I can watch it go completely to the bottom in 15' of water, and as long as I'm keeping my rod tip right beside my trolling motor, I can see it on my screen. If I move my rod to the side, I can see it on the screen until my rod tip gets about 5' away from the trolling motor. Then it's gone from the screen.
> 
> Another example .... I used to ice fish and I'd take the front unit off my boat and take it out on the ice with me, and I'd have the transducer down the same hole I was fishing through. When I'd put a live minnow on the hook and let it go down to the bottom, I could watch it go down on my screen. I'd usually keep it about 1' off the bottom. As I fished I would watch the screen for a fish to appear. The minnow also knew the fish was there because it would start swimming to try and get away. I would watch this take place on the screen. If I was using a larger minnow, there would be times when it would actually swim far enough to where I could no longer see it on the screen. This was taking place in 12-15' of water.
> 
> ...



Thanks to both of you (Bassbeme & Crappiedude) for the insight on what a "salesman" would never tell you... and that's if he even knows what the hell he's talking about! 

Bassbme... Too cool on the sight fishing thing... I might have to give that a shot!


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Still doing research on this and found this diagram... 








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Bassbeme... You hit it right on the head. Only one of the DI beams reaches the 1:1 or above!


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

Fish-N-Dip72 said:


> All this info has been amazing! I really appreciate everyone's contribution! Now to get the money together for our new unit.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


There in lies most of what we suffer from $$$$


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Bucks4life, that's a pretty cool image you posted there. I like the ratio information it provides. With that kind of information it would be easy to determine how much bottom coverage each respective angle would show. Thanks for posting that.

As for my answer to your post about coverage being 1:1. I was speaking strictly about 2D sonar.


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Bassbme said:


> Bucks4life, that's a pretty cool image you posted there. I like the ratio information it provides. With that kind of information it would be easy to determine how much bottom coverage each respective angle would show. Thanks for posting that.
> 
> As for my answer to your post about coverage being 1:1. I was speaking strictly about 2D sonar.


Yeah, I'm starting to get a feel for what the difference is. Lucky me I have another 2 months to figure it out before I buy something!


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## MassillonBuckeye (May 3, 2010)

Some good stuff here:

http://www.jasonhalfenoutdoors.com/downimagingfish.html

Real world application. Make sure you watch up to the point he switches from traditional sonar to side scan.






I'd feel naked and afraid without side imaging.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

Everyone should read all of the topics in this tutorial

http://www.furuno.com/special/en/fishfinder/index.html


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Good diagram Bucks4life.
I was looking for a similar pic I had saw a few years ago. This give a good visual image of what the different units are "seeing". Sure puts it's all in perspective. Nice find


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Bucks4life said:


> Thanks to both of you (Bassbeme & Crappiedude) for the insight on what a "salesman" would never tell you... and that's if he even knows what the hell he's talking about!
> 
> Bassbme... Too cool on the sight fishing thing... I might have to give that a shot!


It's an absolute blast! Deep brush pile smallies are suckers for this!


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

More great info. Can't wait to get started buying/installing/using. 

I'm beginning to see how each image has it's own purpose and use. Really cool stuff. 

Thanks to all!!


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## James F (Jul 2, 2005)

I have read that side imaging reads if /or only when the boat is moving! Is there a minimum speed? Some of my best catches occurred at super slow speeds. Of course fish attitude dictates what they prefer.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

James F said:


> I have read that side imaging reads if /or only when the boat is moving! Is there a minimum speed? Some of my best catches occurred at super slow speeds. Of course fish attitude dictates what they prefer.


I've read and seen videos that say anywhere from 3 - 6 mph give the best images on side scan or side imaging. For me personally, those kind of speeds won't present a problem, because side scan isn't going to be the mode I use while fishing. It's strictly going to be for locating structure or cover.

One a side note, I've also read that down scan or down imaging gives better results when moving. Hopefully someone that has it will chime in for an answer or two.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

Side imaging while completely stopped still shows on the screen but it will show returned signals as a line, much like a fish that is under your transducer that is not moving. It just shows a flat line across the screen. 

Moving, you or the fish, just changes the return to the fish finder and the screen shows those changes. Side imaging still sends out a signal and gets a return that is displayed on the screen, but it will just be straight lines that will be hard to interpret.


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## papaperch (Apr 12, 2004)

After years of using side and down imaging. I find that if you match your chart speed close to your boat speed. It will give the clearest and accurate info . In other words boat speed 2 mph chart speed setting 2. When scouting an interesting area my setting for 3.0 boat speed and 3 chart speed. It also helps to maintain as straight as possible course when imaging.

Each unit and boat and installation are unique and user has to play with settings to optimize his rig. But these are guidelines to start with.

Imagine my disappointment when I set up a SI unit for ice fishing when they first came out. I really felt stupid until I read some forums where others had tried the same thing. Although one guy made a transducer servo that rotated the the transducer itself. Humminbird took that basic idea to come up with the 360 view concept. Which does work while sitting still.

What has truly amazed me. Is how the fishermen themselves have pushed the industry with their own ideas. Read into some of the side imaging forums and find out how best to use your unit. There are numerous resources on the web such as crappie dot com , bbc , etc . That have pages and pages of use and experimentation on these units.


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## MassillonBuckeye (May 3, 2010)

I think you'd want to turn your "chart speed" down to 1. From what I've gathered, and what seems to work for me is to set your chart speed to match your boat speed like papaperch said. I'm not sure how a Lowrance product addresses this but I know they don't have a "chart speed".


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Some more information I've found... This is more side by side comparisons with different models and different views. I like visual stuff, it helps me to understand more. See the link below for the webpage, and plenty of more info on the same site.

Link


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## Bucks4life (Jul 30, 2014)

Thought I would bump this with some new information.

I ended up purchasing the HB Helix 5 SI/DI/GPS, and the more I read the more I wanted to mount my transducer to my trolling motor. As it turns out, the transducer that comes with the Helix 5 is not made to go on the trolling motor so I called HB and they are allowing me to send in my new transducer for one that's made for the TM at no extra charge. Thought this might be helpful for anyone looking to do the same thing.

Happy fishing all!


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