# Need advice building plywood new boat



## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Hey yall,
I'm looking for some advice from anyone who knows about building a plywood boat. I've found some wood boat forums and read a lot, learned a lot so far, but those forums are really serious, and i'm looking for a little friendlier advice from someone who isn't out to pick me to death.
Here's where I'm at. I started by buying plans from Spira international since it looked like simpler instructions. He has good advice for general use but i'm needing some specifics about general things. 
The boat is a 14 ft carolina skiff style, flat bottom, pointed bow. To keep it affordable and since it's my first build, I used pine from Lowes to make the frame. This is the part I don't need to be picked apart on and why I didn't post on the other sites. Spira said pine is fine for the frame, although I know there are much better, though much more expensive woods. At any rate, the frame is pine bolted together as the plan says. It has a 2x6 keelson for the bottom, and again to keep it reasonable and to buy local I found Fir marine 1/2" plywood at Kime lumber. It's plenty thick enough and I think will hold up. I couldn't afford the Okume or the shipping, so I understand I may have to deal with checking which they say is common with Fir. 
I've used West system epoxy products and screwed and glued the plywood on. May have gone a little heavy on the screws, but I'm sure it won't come apart. I've sealed all the joints with epoxy, put in butt blocks at the joints, and have a layer of fiberglass strips with epoxy at the joints. I'm currently working on fairing the joints as much as possible and that's where my questions are.
I'm planning on glassing the whole bottom and the sides to just above where I think the waterline will be, maybe 8-9 inches up from the bottom. The entire outside will be painted and most of the inside with a lot of trim finished bright with urethane coating.
My question on fairing, or smoothing the joints is this: I'm using a west system filler with epoxy for the major fill, but can I use a common fiberglass auto body filler to make it smoother and more fair? After a coat of primer, can I use auto body primer filler for finish work, or is that a no no on boats because of the moisture? I haven't found or figured out a better marine filler to use that will be smoother than what I have.
I know that can add some weight, but I don't want it to be too rippled looking. My joints aren't too bad for the first try, but do need some work.
Anyone with this experience in wood boats can PM me or this can be an open forum, maybe someone else can pick something up. If I can figure out the photobucket thing here I'll try to post some pics. Thanks.


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## Dfrenzy (Dec 18, 2008)

I'm not sure where your located but you can order your fiberglass resin or cloth and fillers and save som money from infinity composites. http://www.infinitycomposites.com/ Ther located in Ashtabula Ohio. I have done a lot of boat repairs and used there products. I have always been happy with them.


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## Iowa Dave (Sep 27, 2009)

I am a member at the Hull Truth and there is a member there named *******. He is one heck of a boat builder I would suggest you join and chat with him. Here is a thread on a 32' he is building so you can see the progress
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/71111-building-32-express-photos.html

Here is another smaller one he helped build 
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/161504-building-21-diesel-center-console.html

If I were you I would glass all the way to the gunnel. I don't think you want to use auto compounds for a boat.


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## Snakecharmer (Apr 9, 2008)

Good luck on the build and I hope you aren't doing it in your basement LOL.


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## freyedknot (Apr 10, 2004)

u.s. composites has the best prices on the net.


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## Ken G (Apr 9, 2004)

I get all of my epoxy and materials from http://boatbuildercentral.com/. Their prices are reasonable, they ship fast, and their customer service is great. You can call them on the phone and Joel will answer any questions you have. I haven't read the forum for a while but they never seemed too brutal toward anyone. If they are too brutal just grow some thicker skin and ignore them, they don't know where you live.

Since you have already started with epoxy you can not use automotive body putty and fillers. They are polyester based and will not stick to epoxy. You can make your own fillers and fairing compounds using epoxy with silica and microballoons.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Thanks guys, those are the answers I needed and I'll check out the threads. It's my first time and I don't feel overwhelmed because I've done a lot of wood work, but it is a challenge. 
By the way, I di actually start the frame work in the basement, knowing I'd have to take it apart and move it into the garage. Thats where my saws are and I wanted to make sure it fit together. After taking the frame apart. I put her in the garage and epoxied the frame with the screw holes I had. It all went back together the second time just the same as the first. I know, double the work, but it's worked so far.
Thanks again.


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

I use White Oak for frames... (cheap in amish country) and Homestead hardwoods is located in Vickery Ohio. They have all the exotics and plywood. I use a product called Hydrotek and it is very nice. SOunds like you're almost done. Have fun and keep learning. Every one will be better.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

I haven't been able to put pics on this thread. They must be too big. if anyone is interested I did get some into my photo gallery on this site under webothfish. 

I'm at a point where I put a strip of fiberglass and west system epoxy around the whole bottom edges where the flat bottom joins the gunnels (gunwhales??)
I think its all sealed and tight. I'm planning on glassing the whole bottom, and after checking more and seeing those pics of those boats on the hull truth, I'll go with glassing all the way up. I was wondering about trying to smooth off that glass cloth edge anyway, so that should solve that problem. 

It looks lke the way to do that is to cover the bottom with that edge hanging over a bit, then tuck and epoxy the side pieces over the edge of the bottom glass. Sound right? thats what it looks like the pro did on his bigger boat. Seeing that realy helps. 

Thanks for the comments. Keep em coming.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Looks like I did







View image in gallery​
figure how to get a pic on Here! WooHoo!


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## Dry Lake Texas (Apr 6, 2010)

Looks good to me for a first try but what do I know. I've never built a boat however you may have inspired me...


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Well I've got all the edges sealed up and smoothed off, no big divots or anything. The next step I guess is to go ahead and cover her with the fiberglass. After looking around I went with the Infinity composites and am happy with the sizes / choices they have and also fast shipping. Price was the best i found on the net.

Need to do some reading up on the sheathing steps. If anyone has done this and has suggestions I'm open. I read somewhere that you need to wash it down with something. Ammonia?? Have to find out. Also not sure if I need to do that before
the fiberglass or after when getting ready to paint. Also need a good day with the weather since I got a batch of slow dry stuff for the epoxy.
Guess i'll see how it comes out.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Spent all day friday glassing the whole boat. Pretty big job for one guy handling 14 x 3 ft sheets of fiberglass cloth. Finally got it all smoothed out, good thing I had the slow dry activator. Next step is smoothing it off with some fillers after I find what I need to get. Then primer. I forsee lots of sanding in my future. Haven't even had time to fish yet. there seems to be a catch 22 here.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

This is a bgger job than I expected. Trying to get done and tested to take it to Canada after 4th of July.
So far, after the first coat of epoxy, I faired it up as much as possible with fairing fillers and a coat of thick primer. Now I'm working on the top coats. Going with a light gray. the body work isn't ba but it is my first one so not perfect. It'll look good on a plane on the lake. Didnt have any idea how much sanding would be involved. Been about a solid month of filling, priming and sanding. 
I saw an idea for a jig to roll it over. 
Bought a trailer off another OGF member that I need to fix up a little to put this boat on. Guess I'll post more pics if I can get them to load up.


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## creekcrawler (Oct 5, 2004)

Wow. All I can say is Wow.
That's some nice looking work - wish I had the time to try something like that.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

All I can say is give it a shot. This is a big first project and is taking time. Take a look on the Spira International website. he sells plans but has 2 free sets and one of them is a kayak. You could probably build it in a few weekends for a couple hundred bucks if your careful. Its one of the most interesting and challenging wood projects I've tried.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

I saw this idea for a roll over jig and she's ready to flip onto the trailer as soon as I get some help next weekend. Hope it misses the garage roof. I measured and it looks like about 7 inches to spare. Hope so.


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## webothfish (Mar 28, 2008)

Well, the roll over jig worked like a charm. I used a piece of 3/4 in plywood to cut it out of and it held up. My 67 yr old dad, 65 yr old mom, and daughter and her husband helped me get it turned, along with my deer hoist attached to the rafters.

Once it started over we just eased it onto the trailer , so now its time to start working on the inside. Trying to get it fishable with my tiller motor by 4th of July for our Canada trip. A solid week of trolling for Pike should be a good shakedown cruise. I think I'll test it first before we try that.


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## CWG (May 12, 2010)

AWESOME! Great work, nice first run, bravo man. update pics as its done
CWG


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