# Createx/envirtex adhesion question.



## plugman (Jul 15, 2008)

Looking at all teh nice work on teh boards here, I was inspired to take the plunge and get an airbrush. Did my first bunch of plugs painted with createx the other day. This afternoon, I scuffed them up with 320 grit sandpaper before I applied my etex. Did my usual mix and stir for 3 minutes. I stopped after the first three cause I noticed it's not adhering evenly. I'm getting spots where it pulls back, leaving small areas on the plug that are still finished in paint only. Should I be applying a clear enamel finish coat before I put on the etex? The three plugs I was doing were all pearl paints. Does that make a difference?

I assume I can strip the three I did and repaint or reseal. Just a PIA... On the bright side, more practice with the airbrush....


----------



## TIGGER (Jan 17, 2006)

Plugman you probably have contamination on those areas. There might have been some oil or something on your hands. You have to be careful after you paint not to touch the lure. I try not to. 

You can mix the envirotex and let it sit for up to like 10 minutes or more before using it. It will thicken up during that time and less able to spread like that on the lure. While the lure is doing that on a drying wheel or hanging you can dab a little back on the spot. Sometimes it will cover the spot up........... but not always.

A fix............... let the plug dry. I will take 5 minute epoxy in some cases and apply a spot of it over the bad area. Let it dry and wet sand back to smooth. You can also to it with envirotex but wait 24 hours before sanding it.


----------



## plugman (Jul 15, 2008)

Thanks Tigger. It sounds like the createx may be a bit more sensitive than my old familiar oil based rattle cans, but I'll get used to it. Contamination could definately be the problem. Some of my Rhode Island buddies were fondling them before I could get the etex on. Certainly more options for painting for sure, although it will take a bit of time to get up to speed and figure out how to handle the airbrush and how much you have to thin the paints, etc.

Should I give the plug a wipe down wth acetone before I try to repair it? Do you do any other prep before sealing? What grit do you use for your wet sanding? Should I be heatsetting the paint as well as the epoxy coats? Will that help with adhesion?


----------



## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

Createx should be applied in relatively thin coats (compared to enamels) and generally should heat set between coats.

Prior to clearing the bait, the stuff is pretty fragile really. Unlike spray can paint, it scuffs pretty easily and shows dirt from your hands and so on prior to clearing it. I try to avoid touching it anymore than necessary prior to clearing it.

Tigger nailed it though. You probably had some spot contaminated from handling. Createx is actually somewhat of a porous finish and both Devcon and envirotex bond normally to the paint very well.


----------



## plugman (Jul 15, 2008)

What's the heat set do to each coat of paint? Assure no moisture under the clear coat?


----------



## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

It dries the paint so that you have far fewer problems with runs. As I'm sure you've seen, the Createx is thin compared to the oil-based spray can stuff, which I believe is an enamel type paint. The heat causes the water-based paints to "set up" and bond.

I've also read that the heat causes a chemical change in the paint. If what I read was true, the heat is required to activate the chemical change to more fully solidify the paint. 

If you use the heat gun, use it _sparingly._ You will have to get a feel for this over time and with practice, but you get the idea. Too much heat will cause the paint and the underlying coat to blister. If that happens, stop and let the area cool a bit and then try to pat the blistered area down with a gentle touch or two with your index finger. That often remedies the problem to a point where the error is often hard to even detect. Be patient when you paint. Go slow. After you get the hang of it, you can go faster.

I also recommend that you clear between paint "layers" so that you can simply wipe off any major errors and start over.

In other words, after you've appropriate prepared the bait (seal with Minwax sanding sealer, then clear, then prime, usually with white paint or primer), apply your base colors and then clear again before proceeding to the other details of the paint work, such as scales, gills, fins, etc. You can clear with a variety of sealers.

The sealing prior to the next step can be done with epoxy. However, if you are making smaller baits such as those for bass or walleye, you have to consider the weight added by the epoxy because it can have an effect on the final action and behavior of the bait. Epoxy can "deaden" the action on smaller baits if too much is applied or too many coats of clear are utilized. Again, this is something for which you develop judgment and a "feel" for over time.

I often use automotive clear for this barrier coat of clear between layers. Automotive clear is solvent based, meaning it is thinned with stuff called "reducer," and you need lacquer thinner to clean your airbrush afterward. Now, a lot of guys do not like using lacquer thinner. It is nasty, potent stuff and you MUST use a mask and have proper ventilation. *It is also highly flammable, and does NOT require "heat setting" with the heat gun.*

However, it seals the bait very, very well and does not add the mass or weight like epoxy does between the various stages of the paint process. The extra weight is much smaller concern on musky baits because it is spread over more mass.

I use "Medium Reducer" which is available at most automotive paint supply stores and it is also available on line. Paint thinner will not properly reduce the enamel paints or the automotive clear. You would think that it would, but trust me, it will not. The medium reducer is a must.

While we're on that subject, you might also consider trying enamel paints. Enamels set up without heat setting, allow you to paint faster and apply more paint per coat, and come in different colors than the water-based stuff. Enamel paints also have far less tendencies to run or sag, and have no adhesion issues that I know of. In general, you can paint faster and with less "caution" with enamels.

When I switch from enamels to water-based paints, I must remind myself to slow down because you simply cannot apply water-based paints as quickly or as thick.

Enamel paint is, in my opinion, superior to water-based for those reasons, and I consider it a superior choice for bait building application for one important reason...if the clear coat on water-based paint is breached by getting pierced by hooks, teeth, rocks, or just general wear and tear, the water-based paint can allow the water to sort of seep through the paint. This can cause damage to the paint job even under the portions of the clear coats that are still intact. I use primarily enamels for the above reasons.

The downside of the enamels are few, but they do require attention. 

First, the enamels are harder to get. Usually you must order them online, but you can find a certain selection of colors at certain hobby shops. They are also expensive on a per quantity basis if you buy them a local hobby shops. You can order four ounce plastic bottles of the enamels online for a fraction of the hobby shop prices.

Secondly, the enamels require lacquer thinner for clean up and cleaning the airbrush. As I said, lacquer thinner has potent, nasty fumes, requires ventilation and a *quality* respirator, and is highly flammable, explosive actually. There is much discussion about the potential for explosion potential within any paint booth system. That discussion is often overblown in my opinion, but it must be considered.

Lastly, enamels and the solvent do not lend themselves well to "basement" painting because of the fumes. I purposely set up my paint shop in a room within my detached garage so that I don't disturb my family with the fumes.
On the other hand, a lot of guys do not hesitate to use water-based paints in the basement, but proper ventilation is still a consideration. Breathing any type of particulate over extended periods of time is not wise. I know of guy who sits at his kitchen table to spray Createx, although I probably would never do that because of the over-spray problems.

That said, I still prefer enamels. The automotive clear, which is solvent based, also allows one tremendous advantage...you can buy pearl powders, mix them with the automotive clear and apply them over almost any color of paint, and you can do so with a great deal of latitude. The pearl powders create wonderful, amazing effects and add an aesthetic appeal that you must see to appreciate. I highly recommend that you try this at some point, because it is that good. Pearl powders mixed with automotive clear can also be applied directly over Createx to get the same effects. 

Also certain types of very fine glitter can be mixed with automotive clear and applied with an airbrush. You'll probably need an airbrush with about a 5mm nozzle for both the pearl powders and the glitter applications. I have several airbrushes, so this is not a problem for me. (I prefer an airbrush with a smaller nozzle for finer details and better control of how much paint is applied at one time.)

I've also used both water-based and enamel paints on the same bait after having applied clear between the two layers. This can give you the best of both worlds, but I usually stick just the enamels on the musky baits, because the musky baits tend to get more abuse in general.

Hope that helps.


----------



## plugman (Jul 15, 2008)

Sprayed a coat of clear enamel on a couple last night and put a coat of epoxy this AM. Looks a whole lot better. I'll finish up this batch this way and be more careful on the next batch.


----------

