# Texas Rig Hook Set



## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm having a really tough time hooking bass on my Texas rigged senkos. This is killing me because I feel the strike, set the hook and start reeling in but then the bass will spit the hook right out a second later. I use green pumpkin senkos with 3/0 gamakatsu EWG hooks. Is it the hook that is the problem or am I setting the hook too early? 


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## JignPig Guide (Aug 3, 2007)

Perez1 said:


> I'm having a really tough time hooking bass on my Texas rigged senkos. This is killing me because I feel the strike, set the hook and start reeling in but then the bass will spit the hook right out a second later. I use green pumpkin senkos with 3/0 gamakatsu EWG hooks. Is it the hook that is the problem or am I setting the hook too early?


I use 5/0 hooks with my Venom Slings. But I do not see a problem with a 3/0 EWG hook with the Senko's. You may have answered your own question. If you are loosing to many. Maybe you are setting the hook too early.
I normally let them have it longer prior to setting the hook if I've lost a few, or the bite is really slow.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

I forgot to mention, I've been using 5 inch senkos. Green pumpkin seems to be the only color working for me also.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

JignPig Guide said:


> I use 5/0 hooks with my Venom Slings. But I do not see a problem with a 3/0 EWG hook with the Senko's. You may have answered your own question. If you are loosing to many. Maybe you are setting the hook too early.
> 
> I normally let them have it longer prior to setting the hook if I've lost a few, or the bite is really slow.


Yeah I guess I need to let them take it longer. I'm pretty sure I set the hook hard enough also, so that shouldn't be a problem either. Idk haha I guess I did answer my own question if that's all I need to do



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## polebender (Oct 29, 2011)

Do you bury the hook into the middle of the Senko? If you do, this could be why your not getting a good hookset. When you first run the hook in, run it all the way through the Senko so the hook point and barb are lying on the topside of the Senko. Then pinch the hook point just under the skin so it is still weedless.
What this does, is when a fish hits the point will immediatiely become exposed and you'll get a lot better hookset. You'll find your hookup percentage will improve tremendously.


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## chrism1367 (Aug 11, 2012)

polebender said:


> Do you bury the hook into the middle of the Senko? If you do, this could be why your not getting a good hookset. When you first run the hook in, run it all the way through the Senko so the hook point and barb are lying on the topside of the Senko. Then pinch the hook point just under the skin so it is still weedless.
> What this does, is when a fish hits the point will immediatiely become exposed and you'll get a lot better hookset. You'll find your hookup percentage will improve tremendously.


I have noticed that also, with other soft plastics texas rigged as well well. Very good point


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## Nightcrawler666 (Apr 17, 2014)

If you're using mono and a lighter-weight rod, this could have something to do with your fish coming off. 

A 3/0 gama is a pretty dense hook, meaning, the gauge is fairly thick and requires a lot of force to get into the thick and bony parts of their mouth. If they're chompin down and you get a weakened hookset because of give in your line or rod action, you're less likely to hang onto them if they jump or go into weeds. 

I use braid, sometimes with a fluorocarbon leader (5-7ft) if the water is clear. Gets rid of stretch in my line and improves sensitivity. I usually use a 7' MH fast action rod for that extra backbone to strengthen the hookset. 


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## TonyR (Jul 17, 2014)

I've been having the exact same issue recently. I'm using the 3/0 EWG hooks with 4" senkos. For the line, I'm using 20lb power pro braid with a few feet of clear flourocarbon leader. I've been going thru the worm and leaving the hook exposed against one side of the worm.

How long should we be waiting after the fish has the bait before setting the hook? 5 seconds? 10?


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Watch a video of how a bass eats.Opens its mouth and sucks it in in an instant.You're not setting too early.May be small bass not able to eat a 5" bait.May also be other fish with smaller mouths.And I definitely agree w/others about skin hooking the bait.

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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

Cajunsaugeye said:


> Watch a video of how a bass eats.Opens its mouth and sucks it in in an instant.You're not setting too early.May be small bass not able to eat a 5" bait.May also be other fish with smaller mouths.And I definitely agree w/others about skin hooking the bait.
> 
> Sent from my VS870 4G using Ohub Campfire mobile app


This is a good point. I have not tried to use anything smaller than 5 inch senkos. I didn't think about the bass sucking in the bait as you said, thanks for your answer.

I'd also like to say that I am using 12 lb trilene mono with no leader. I have this spooled onto a abu Garcia black max 2 baitcaster and a medium heavy abu rod.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

Does 12 lb mono stretch too much? Should I use higher lb mono or should I invest in some fluro or braid?


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## polebender (Oct 29, 2011)

Fluoro would help in three ways. 1) It's almost totally invisible 2) it has less stretch and 3) it sinks, helping a weightless Senko drop just a little quicker and will add a little more action to it, which can make a big difference in a fishes reaction.

Also if you decide to go to fluoro, leave backing, the line you have on there now, and tie to it to fill your spool. Probably 90-100 ft. will do. This will make your more expensive Fluoro last a little longer.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

polebender said:


> Fluoro would help in three ways. 1) It's almost totally invisible 2) it has less stretch and 3) it sinks, helping a weightless Senko drop just a little quicker and will add a little more action to it, which can make a big difference in a fishes reaction.
> 
> Also if you decide to go to fluoro, leave backing, the line you have on there now, and tie to it to fill your spool. Probably 90-100 ft. will do. This will make your more expensive Fluoro last a little longer.


So don't use fluoro just as a leader? And do you have a specific brand that you like?


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## Mr. A (Apr 23, 2012)

Perez1 said:


> So don't use fluoro just as a leader? And do you have a specific brand that you like?


I love the sun line sniper FC, just my preference though.

As far as the smaller (> 5") senko's I don't like them much because gills and rock bass seem drawn to them. They don't normally get hooked so it feels like your missing hookups. As far as waiting I don't.... when using a t-rigged senko or ribbon tail worm, all I look for is the line to move in another direction, or if I feel it pull. I also tend to use a short sharp yank to set the hook, that way if I miss the bait doesn't get too far away from where the hit was. Hope that helps.

A


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## JignPig Guide (Aug 3, 2007)

For what it's worth. This Ohio Fall bass (pictured) was the only hit I had all day long. She picked up the 5-inch Venom Sling. And I let her swim with it for nearly 30ft. prior to setting the hook.
I don't recommend this regularly. But sometimes when all else fails, it's good to try something else.


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## polebender (Oct 29, 2011)

Perez1 said:


> So don't use fluoro just as a leader? And do you have a specific brand that you like?


The only time I will consider a leader is if I'm fishing gin clear water using braided line. IMO using a leader is just an extra weak link with having to tie extra knots.

As far as brands, if you buy any of the major suppliers, you'll be fine. It just comes down to personal preference. If you ask ten people which brand they like best, you'll probably get ten different answers. Lol!


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

IMO there are a couple of things that are, or could be working to your disadvantage. The first thing I'd say is the type of hook you're using. IMO a straight shank hook is a far better choice for Texas rigging Senkos. Most EWG style hooks have their point on the same plane as the hook's eye. While the gap between the hooks point and the offset in the hook's shank may be wide, they are both on the same horizontal plane. That means that a fish has to bite down harder in order for part of its mouth to collapse to the point of being below the point of the hook. With a straight shank hook, the hook's eye and its point are on two separate planes. With a straight shank hook it's going to take less pressure from the fish before its mouth collapses to the point of being below the hook's point. 

The Texposed rigging (described as skin hooking) that others have mentioned is going to put the hook closer to the skin of the Senko, but it's still not going to change the physical design of the hook. Personally I use an Owner Wide Gap straight shank worm hook for Texas rigging Senkos. The trick to using a straight shank hook in any soft plastic bait is in the angle you insert the hook into the bait. You want to pass the hook through the nose of the bait at an angle so that the hook's point is at that same angle when you reinsert it back into the bait. That is going to ensure the hook's point will have the shortest distance to move before it's point exits the body of the bait.

I'd almost be willing to guarantee that your hook up and landing ratio would skyrocket if you started using a straight shank hook instead of an EWG style hook, with one exception. And that exception would be if you started using an Owner Wide Gap Plus, EWG style hook. The Owner Wide Gap Plus's point is above the plane of the hook's eye. That means it's going to basically act like a straight shank hook as described above, but it's going to have the bait holding and bait saving advantage that a standard EWG style hook has. The Wide Gap Plus's slightly higher hook point also increases the hooks gap, and makes the Texpose rigging described in previous posts, a breeze. 

I will caution you .... using a straight shank hook is going to mean that your baits won't last as long. Nor are they the best choice if you're working your bait through marginally thick cover. Senkos are notorious for their lack of durability. Using a straight shank hook is going to tear up the nose of the bait fairly rapidly. And I'm not just talking about when you hook a fish. Once they slide down the shank a time or two a Senko is pretty much toast and it's time to insert the hook into the other end. Or it's time to put on a new bait.

Also and it's already been mentioned ..... but IMO you're using too small of a hook. In an EWG style hook, a 4/0 size hook would be the smallest I would use on a 5" Senko. If you were to use the straight shank Owner hook I mentioned earlier, then a 3/0 size hook works very well. 

Lastly, you didn't really describe the hook set you use, other than to say you set the hook hard. In my experience, rarely does a bass spit a Senko out quickly, so I'm never in a hurry to set the hook. When I feel the bite I'll drop my rod tip slowly while taking in slack. I don't reel down tight on the fish, I just reel down enough to leave a slight bow in the line. I'm watching my line and feeling for the fish. Once I've determined they still have it (and they usually do) then I'll set the hook, and I set the hook hard. I don't really powder them unless cover conditions or distance to the fish dictate that I do, but I let them have it, that's for sure. Some people may want to take a chance with a less than hard hook set, but I'm not one of them.


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## Big Joshy (Apr 26, 2004)

good info bme. I did not know about the owner wide gap plus.

I have not used these exact hooks yet but im thinking they will be money. save money by preserving baits with the twist lock and be money with positive hooksets due to the more open gap.
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_TwistLock_Open_Gap_Centering_Pin_Hook/descpage-OTLC.html


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## bassmonster (Sep 26, 2014)

Bassbme said:


> IMO there are a couple of things that are, or could be working to your disadvantage. The first thing I'd say is the type of hook you're using. IMO a straight shank hook is a far better choice for Texas rigging Senkos. Most EWG style hooks have their point on the same plane as the hook's eye. While the gap between the hooks point and the offset in the hook's shank may be wide, they are both on the same horizontal plane. That means that a fish has to bite down harder in order for part of its mouth to collapse to the point of being below the point of the hook. With a straight shank hook, the hook's eye and its point are on two separate planes. With a straight shank hook it's going to take less pressure from the fish before its mouth collapses to the point of being below the hook's point.
> 
> The Texposed rigging (described as skin hooking) that others have mentioned is going to put the hook closer to the skin of the Senko, but it's still not going to change the physical design of the hook. Personally I use an Owner Wide Gap straight shank worm hook for Texas rigging Senkos. The trick to using a straight shank hook in any soft plastic bait is in the angle you insert the hook into the bait. You want to pass the hook through the nose of the bait at an angle so that the hook's point is at that same angle when you reinsert it back into the bait. That is going to ensure the hook's point will have the shortest distance to move before it's point exits the body of the bait.
> 
> ...


nice post bassbme. I actually own the owner EWG hook, but it is in the 3/0 size. I could never get my YUM dingers perfectly straight on it though. So you definitely suggest getting at least a 4/0 size?


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

All of you guys posted great info. I'll definitely look into the owner EWG hooks and straight shank. I'm probably going to get away from
the senkos because they are not durable whatsoever. I have not seen the venom sling before, jignpig guide. I'll look and those and the YUM dinger. So I'll do a little shopping for some good fluoro, some new worms, and check out some new hooks. Then wait a little longer on the hook set. And just curious, does anyone recommend going >5in for worms or is 5 inch just about right for any situation? 


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Big Joshy ... the hook you posted the link to is a great hook, and Owner, IMO has the best spring lock on the market. The centering pin doesn't allow the screw to wander as it does with a screw lock without a centering pin, and as you can see in the picture in the link you posted ... the spirals of the screw go completely to the hook connection point. A lot of other screw locks have a short shank between the screw portion and the connection point, which is no big deal if you're using a solid bodied bait, but a big deal if you are using a hollow bodied bait. And yes ... the Owner Wide Gap Plus, EWG style hook is an awesome hook. It has Owner's triple cutting point, which, other than a Lazer Trokar, is the easiest penetrating hook on the market. And while the Trokar is danger sharp, their points don't hold up as well as the Owners do. 

Bassmonster ... first off, Owner makes 2 different types of EWG hooks. The J Hook, and the Wide Gap Plus. The J Hook is pretty much like every other EWG style hook in that its point is on the same plane as the eye of the hook. They're great hooks, but the point and the eye being on the same plane makes it harder to get your bait perfectly straight when Texpose rigging it. The Wide Gap Plus makes it much easier to get your bait perfectly straight.

As to your question on hook size .... when I am choosing hook size, I base it on the thickness of the baits body. I use a 3/0 Wide Gap Plus on baits like the 3" Jackall Cover Craw, or a Smallie Sweet Beaver, and if I were to use an EWG style hook on a stick worm like a Senko, I'd use a 3/0 for a 4" Senko. 

For thicker baits like a 4" Jackall Cover Craw, or a 4.20 Sweet Beaver, I use a 4/0 Wide Gap Plus. And if I were to use the Wide Gap Plus on a 5" Senko or Yum Dinger, I'd use a 4/0 on those as well. But ..... as I posted earlier. I use straight shank hooks for Senkos, and Yum Dingers. 

The only time I deviate from using a straight shank hook for stick worms, is if I happen to be using a Senko or a Dinger, on a Carolina rig. Then I'll use a Wide Gap Plus, EWG style hook.

Perez1 .... I can't blame you for looking for a more durable stick worm, than a Senko. They're expensive, and their lack of durability means you can go through a lot of baits in a hurry. The Venom Salty Sling that JigNPig Guide mentioned is a close second based on some of the other brands of stick worms I've used, but the Slings aren't that much more durable than a Senko. But they are less expensive.

The Yum Dinger is more durable than a Senko, but they aren't as heavy, and they don't have as much action as a Senko. One good thing though .... there are a lot of different brands of stick worms, so you shouldn't have much trouble finding a more affordable version of a Senko, but IMO you won't find a better one.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

I just have one more question. I am using a baitcaster with a 6:4:1 ration with a 6'9 MH rod. I did purchase 100 yds of Suffix Fluoro too. should this set up work well for worm fishing?


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Perez1 said:


> I just have one more question. I am using a baitcaster with a 6:4:1 ration with a 6'9 MH rod. I did purchase 100 yds of Suffix Fluoro too. should this set up work well for worm fishing?


Yes, depending on the size of the flouro you bought.


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## Nightcrawler666 (Apr 17, 2014)

I use a similar setup. 7' MH fast action rod with 7.1:1bait caster with 12lb flouro. If I'm fishing muddier water with dense weeds I'll use either 30 or 50lb braid, especially if I know there are larger fish in that particular body of water. 

Works well for me. Throws weightless senkos and weighted worms just fine. Plus it has that backbone for a good hookset and helps get em out of heavy cover.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

Bad Bub said:


> Yes, depending on the size of the flouro you bought.



I bought 12lb fluoro. Based off your guys posts, sounds like I have all I need to catch some good bass now


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Perez1 said:


> I bought 12lb fluoro. Based off your guys posts, sounds like I have all I need to catch some good bass now
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


That will work, but that's the lightest size I would go with. Texas rigs are at their best around the heavy stuff. You wanna make sure you have enough strength to get a fish out of it.


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Bad Bub said:


> That will work, but that's the lightest size I would go with. Texas rigs are at their best around the heavy stuff. You wanna make sure you have enough strength to get a fish out of it.


Amen to the above ........ Personally, 12# test would be the lightest line I would use for baits that have a single hook. With 10# test being the lightest line I would use on bait casting gear, in general.

12# test is a good choice if you're fishing water deeper than 6 or 7'. Its smaller diameter is going to allow baits to sink more quickly. It's going to make keeping baits deeper, easier. Its smaller diameter is also going to allow you to use lighter weights, and faster retrieves when compared to larger diameter lines. Smaller diameter lines will also give you better sensitivity than a larger diameter line. While I'd consider 12# test a good choice for deeper more open water, and light to marginally thick cover .... I wouldn't consider it a good choice for moderately thick to heavy cover, or in cover where line abrasion is going to be a major concern.

As Bad Bub said, you want to make sure you have enough strength to get a fish out of cover. Heavy, line abrading cover, calls for a larger diameter line. Not because a larger diameter line is necessarily stronger, (although with all things being equal, it generally is) or has less resistance to abrasion than a smaller diameter line, but because a larger diameter line can take more abuse and still retain more of its strength when abraded, than a smaller diameter line can. It's an higher retained strength through percentage of remaining intact material, kind of thing. 

Personally, and definitions vary when it comes to what is considered "heavy cover", but 15# test would be the lightest line I would use for fishing in cover that I would consider being borderline, heavy. The heavier the cover, the higher # test line I'm going to use. While I'll occasionally use 50# braid, I use 20# fluorocarbon for practically all of my heavy cover Texas rig fishing. There are also a couple of other things you want to consider when choosing a line size, and I think both have been mentioned in earlier posts to this thread, but the diameter of wire the hook you're using is made of, and the size of the bait you're using need to be considered. Heavy wire hooks, and big baits require the use of heavier line. It may seem like a lot of meaningless details to consider, but it's really just scratching the surface.

Heck .... if you really want to get down to the nitty gritty of things to consider, (as ridiculous as it may sound) the density or the softness of the plastic in the baits you're using could be a consideration. Is that overkill? Maybe. But something so seemingly insignificant, can at times, make a big difference. Especially when fishing a Texas rig. As the old saying goes "the devil is in the details". 

Does everyone need to get into so many details when choosing a line? Oh heck no, and I'm certainly not saying that they do. Nor am I saying that anything I posted above are hard fast rules and if you don't follow them, then you're doing it wrong. I'm just sharing a couple of things that I consider when choosing line, or a bait, or a hook. Anyhow .... since I once again have gone long and am posting things that most people probably think are silly, I'll just say that I think an angler should put just as much thought into choosing the type and size of line they'll be using, as they put into choosing the rod they'll be using it on, or the bait they'll be tying to the end of it. 

Besides that ....... talking fishing is a lot more fun than mowing the lawn, which is what I should have been doing instead of typing this post. lol


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## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)

Perez1 said:


> I bought 12lb fluoro. Based off your guys posts, sounds like I have all I need to catch some good bass now
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


I use 20 lb flouro for leaders on worm rods...you may want to go higher than 12.


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## Perez1 (Jun 30, 2014)

Ok guys, I have a question in regards to tying the fluoro to the backing. What knot do I use to tie the fluoro to mono?


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

I use a Blood knot or back to back Uni knots for tying main line to backing. The blood knot doesn't result in quite as smooth of a knot as back to back Uni knots do, but I can tie it much faster. If I were tying a leader to a main line, I'd use back to back Uni knots.


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## BuzzBait Brad (Oct 17, 2014)

I Texas Rig senkos on a 3/0 offset hook too. I have never had a hit on these senkos. I'll try other plastics and always do way better. What should be thr Presentation of a senko? Seems like I can't get much action on mine.

I fish great miami river quite a bit too. Should I be throwing it in cover like trees or throwing it upstream in rapids and letting it bounce and move itself?


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