# Calling all Car Toppers



## JimmyMac (Feb 18, 2011)

Lets see some pics of your car top setups!

Due to a couple unexpected financial setbacks, I won't be purchasing my first kayak until the end of the year. I had planned on finally getting one earlier this year, oh well.

However, I'll be purchasing a roof rack for my 2015 civic sedan in the next few weeks, so I have a way to haul the thing once I get it. The rack I'm currently looking to purchase is the Yakima streamline system http://www.autoanything.com/roof-ra...&utm_campaign=DPA&utm_term=&utm_content=11431

The kayak I plan to purchase is the Jackson Coosa HD. 

I'm curious about the setups you guys use, if your loading a big heavy boat on a small car like mine, how much of a PITA is it? I'm a fairly stout guy, thinking I should be able to lift it up there solo, but I could be wrong... Would a J style carrier setup work well with a big boat? Or would another option be more secure?


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Here's our caravan yesterday. 6 vehicles, 9 boats. Some big, some little.


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## JimmyMac (Feb 18, 2011)

Bubbagon said:


> Here's our caravan yesterday. 6 vehicles, 9 boats. Some big, some little.


That looks like a lot of fun! 

Is it not necessary to use any of the carriers? Seems like a lot of people just strap then across the crossbars. The roof racks available for my car have such a small distance from bar to bar, seems like I would something there to grip the boat.


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## Hammb (Mar 22, 2013)

Not sure it's really relevant for you since we're in polar opposite vehicles, but I figured I'd chime in since I do transport my yak on top of the vehicle. I'm in a Toyota 4Runner, and I only have the factory roof rack system. The factory crossbars are pretty limiting, none of the fancy "kayak carriers" advertise that they work with the factory system other than some of the J-Cradles. Unfortunately my boat (Ride 135) is heavy, and my vehicle is very tall. I don't think I could manage to get my boat up into a set of J-Cradles by myself.

As such I've stuck with the foam blocks fitting over top of the factory cross bars. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight "Cargo Bed extender" which I put in the upright position and use it as a lever to pivot the boat onto the roof rack. This works really well and allows me to load/unload the boat by myself and I can have it completely secured in less than 20 mins, which is pretty good, IMO. Something like a hullivator or similar would no doubt make life much easier, but they require the corresponding roof rail systems and would end up costing me more than I paid for the yak. 

For a Civic I could probably hoist it up on there by myself. The Coosa HD you're talking about is a bit smaller than my yak, but similar in weight. I think you'll be able to just put some padding on the roof rack system you're talking about (either the foam blocks that fit the hull, like I have, or perhaps could use pool noodles if you wanted to transport upside down) and transport directly on the rack. I think with the shorter vehicle the J-Cradles would be an option for you, but the one caution I've heard with those is that they basically make your yak a big sail as you drive down the highway. If you need to transport 2 yaks the J-Cradles will be necessary, but for a single boat you may find it easier to load, easier to drive, and much cheaper, to just hoist it up on the padded roof rails. 

Personally, I always use a strap at each cross bar and bow/stern tie downs. Read plenty of people saying that the bow/stern ties aren't really necessary, but I don't care. The tiedown kit cost like $15 and it takes me an extra 5 mins to tie the bow & stern down. For the added peace of mind, I just do it.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

So Jimmy, I should have read your whole post more closely.
So first of all, if you get the rack that you linked, you don't need anything else in the way of cradles or anything. Maybe mix in some foam blocks if it makes it feel more secure, but you'll be more than fine with what you're looking at.
In fact, if you're saving up, maybe consider a different rack system. There are a lot of MUCH cheaper ways to go in regards to racks. This one is cool:
http://www.austinkayak.com/products...ackblog&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=blog
Point being that you can get by quite nicely, and safely, with some foam blocks and a couple of YouTube videos.
Here's the bad news. Trying to cartop and load/unload that boat by yourself is going to be tricky. You're likely going to scratch up the rear of the top of your vehicle if you're by yourself. Two people, no sweat but there will likely be days when you have to load by yourself and drive to the water.
When I load/unload by myself, I use J-Cradles and I push them all the way to the driver's side of my rack. That way I can stand my kayak on it's end, right beside my vehicle and centered between the two J-Cradles, and then I lift one end into the cradle, and then just lift the other end into the other cradle.
Good luck, man. That's a GREAT kayak.


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## JimmyMac (Feb 18, 2011)

Great info guys, much appreciated. Glad to see so many different options available. My thoughts behind going with the Yakima system were hopefully getting extra quality and protection for my car, they seem to have good reviews. If lower priced options do just as well, than I'm all for it. Although the cosmetic appeal of the yakima system, especially with the fairing looks pretty sweet to me, if its gonna be on top of my car all the time I feel that's a nice feature. 

I've also been looking at the Jackson Mayfly, so I could end up with an even heavier boat than the Coosa HD.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Don't get me wrong, if you can afford a Yakima rack, get one. I've always had Yakima racks. I used to have stacker bars to carry multiple boats, now I use J-Cradles, push them way to one side, and then use them the same way you'd use stackers for other boats.


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## robistro (Apr 13, 2007)

I load mine flat on factory crossbars on a jeep patriot by myself. not as difficult as one would think 



These fishing kayaks are heavier than the average kayak. I havent tried J Cradles for the reason described above. cant find any to fit my factory rails and im not sinking more money into racks when i already have them.
If anything a trailer is next so i can just leave them on it. 

If I want to take 2 kayaks I just stack it on top of the other with help since another person is with me. I do not strap it the way this guy shows in the video. Intried but didnt seem too secure for me.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

So that's how I "load" my kayaks and paddle board, from the rear. But I don't mess with the carpet square, which yes, causes scratches.
But do NOT watch how this dude ties his kayak down. He doesn't know what he's doing. One strap for each bar is the rule. I'd never use the same strap to cover both bars like he is. Doesn't seem very secure to me. Just ignore what he's doing.

Pro tip: He tries to make sure his straps are "straight" as in not twisted when he runs them over his kayak. But the reality is that you SHOULD absolutely and intentionally put some "twists" in the strap. It will keep the strap from vibrating in the wind when you start driving.


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## BMagill (May 5, 2004)

I use J-cradles on my little Hyundai and it works great, although at 85 lb or so the Sea Ghost is about my peak ability to military press when I am by myself. With a partner it is no problem to put two up there. Caveat is that if you leave them strapped on on a hot day it can put a couple dents in the bottom of the kayak at the contact points. I suspect this is true of all kayak carriers, with the crossbars being the worst. I have gotten into the habit of loosening the straps if the yak is going to be parked for a while.

I have also switched the J-Cradles over to my Town and Country for longer trips. Night and day difference, as the roof is so high I need to step on a stool or cooler to load. Needless to say this can get precarious and I don't think I will ever do it again.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

BMagill said:


> ICaveat is that if you leave them strapped on on a hot day it can put a couple dents in the bottom of the kayak at the contact points. I suspect this is true of all kayak carriers, with the crossbars being the worst. I have gotten into the habit of loosening the straps if the yak is going to be parked for a while.


If you take the kayak off and place it bottom side up in the sun, those dents will typically pop right back out.


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## robistro (Apr 13, 2007)

BMagill said:


> I use J-cradles on my little Hyundai and it works great, although at 85 lb or so the Sea Ghost is about my peak ability to military press when I am by myself. With a partner it is no problem to put two up there. Caveat is that if you leave them strapped on on a hot day it can put a couple dents in the bottom of the kayak at the contact points. I suspect this is true of all kayak carriers, with the crossbars being the worst. I have gotten into the habit of loosening the straps if the yak is going to be parked for a while.
> 
> I have also switched the J-Cradles over to my Town and Country for longer trips. Night and day difference, as the roof is so high I need to step on a stool or cooler to load. Needless to say this can get precarious and I don't think I will ever do it again.


Correct on loosening the straps if parked for extended time in the sun or wherever. 

Also, about the J-cradles - do you like or dislike them? I was thinking about getting another roof setup to carry both kayaks, but dont think its necessary if I strap both down individually with a couple pool noodles sandwiched in between them


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## BMagill (May 5, 2004)

I do like the J-Cradles a lot on my Hyundai Elantra Touring. It is all about reach. I hate them on an SUV or minivan because I can't load them without stepping up (I am 5'10").



Bubbagon said:


> If you take the kayak off and place it bottom side up in the sun, those dents will typically pop right back out.


Thanks I will try that. I have also used a heat gun with kayak on sawhorses to do same thing, but it is probably a little riskier that way!


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## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

I've had my friend's canoe on my 1996, 1998 and 2001 Outbacks, secured directly to the roof rack rails, without the crossbars, using ratcheting straps. Two of us lift the boat up, and with a bit of hunting around we can find how the curve of the rack rails and the curve of the boat settle perfectly on four contact points without rocking.

The straps hold it securely and yes we need to put some twists into them or they will hum VERY loud at speed. We also use bow and stern tie downs. The boat sits perfectly tight even at freeway speed in a crosswind.


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## Rybo (Jul 23, 2009)

Shoot get the kayak first @JimmyMac , other people have the transport already haha! I throw my vote in for just straight bars and a faring to cut down hum. I've got decently wide bars on top of a mazdaspeed3 with Yakima rigging and can transport just as many boats as I have straps realistically. Personally I wouldn't want the additional weight, load, or wind resistance of more rigging. The way some of the systems are designed, make you rely on an additional anchor point of their own hardware. I don't see a point other than a few nylons around some straight bars for security, although perhaps for loading/unloading on certain cars the J carriers make it easier?


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## Rybo (Jul 23, 2009)

Shoot get the kayak first @JimmyMac , other people have the transport already haha! I throw my vote in for just straight bars and a faring to cut down hum. I've got decently wide bars on top of a mazdaspeed3 with Yakima rigging and can transport just as many boats as I have straps realistically. Personally I wouldn't want the additional weight, load, or wind resistance of more rigging. The way some of the systems are designed, make you rely on an additional anchor point of their own hardware. I don't see a point other than a few nylons around some straight bars for security, although perhaps for loading/unloading on certain cars the J carriers make it easier?


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## Rybo (Jul 23, 2009)

Shoot get the kayak first @JimmyMac , other people have the transport already haha! I throw my vote in for just straight bars and a faring to cut down hum. I've got decently wide bars on top of a mazdaspeed3 with Yakima rigging and can transport just as many boats as I have straps realistically. Personally I wouldn't want the additional weight, load, or wind resistance of more rigging. The way some of the systems are designed, make you rely on an additional anchor point of their own hardware. I don't see a point other than a few nylons around some straight bars for security, although perhaps for loading/unloading on certain cars the J carriers make it easier?


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## Stuhly (Jul 6, 2009)

I have a YAKIMA rack system I will for $75 
2sets of risers 
2 -66" cross bars 
Bike rack 








330-957-3658 DAVE


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