# 1956 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5hp



## 1MoreKast (Mar 15, 2008)

I acquired this motor about 3 years ago. It came with the pressure tank, line and connector. To be honest, not too sure how I feel sitting next to a potential "bomb" while running the motor around. Anyways, I haven't had the best luck with it. I can start the motor cold and it will race for a minute then purr down. After a little while, it has the "bogging" down feeling where if you give it juice it wants to die. Many of you may have experienced this with 2 stroke weed wackers. You almost need to feather the throttle a little. I'm using a 50:1 ratio. I've had the coil replaced, new plugs and wires and bottom end gear oil changed. I believe at this point I'd like to try rebuilding or getting a new fuel line connector (replace o rings/springs) and fuel line (air/fuel hose). After that maybe a carb clean or running sea foam thru it.

Not too sure whether to put more time and money into getting it right or putting it on the market. This motor would be perfect for my 13' aluminum if I could get it right. However, I'm getting tired of putting time and money into it. If anything, a trade/cash deal for another little motor that runs well if the opportunity came along. I'm not experienced enough on these pre 1960's Evinrudes.

What are your thoughts?


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## BlueMax (Dec 3, 2006)

Not sure where you are located but there is a member on here who only works on older Johnson and Evinrude engines. He is located in Northern Summit County. His OGF screen name is Johnrude. You might want to try contacting him.


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## Shaggy (Oct 24, 2008)

Sounds like it might be a problem with the fuel pump. Rebuild kits don't cost much and it's easy to do.


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## huntindoggie22 (Mar 28, 2008)

Fuel pump.


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## 1MoreKast (Mar 15, 2008)

I don't think this guy has a fuel pump...it's a pressurized tank. You can convert them into a single line w/ fuel pump.


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## RJohnson442 (May 14, 2013)

Clean the carb first


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## ssv1761982 (Jun 2, 2004)

Do you still have the pressurized tank? It has 2 lines and no primer bulb. Try pumping the plunger on the tank when it starts to die. 

You should be running 25 to 1 for your gas/oil mix, these motors do not have needle bearings and need the extra lube.


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## 1MoreKast (Mar 15, 2008)

ssv1761982 said:


> Do you still have the pressurized tank? It has 2 lines and no primer bulb. Try pumping the plunger on the tank when it starts to die.
> 
> You should be running 25 to 1 for your gas/oil mix, these motors do not have needle bearings and need the extra lube.


Yes, the tank holds pressure well too. You're correct, 2 lines, no primer bulb. I can hardly press the button on the tank down while it runs. However, it does leak a little fuel near the connector at times...which leads me to think the o rings in the connector are bad. 

I'll run it a little richer knowing they don't have needle bearings. Didn't know that. Thanks for tip.


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## RJohnson442 (May 14, 2013)

If you do decide to convert over to a fuel pump. Sell the old tank and you'll have almost enough for all the new parts. Plastic tank, new line with a primer bulb, fuel line connector to match and a jap eBay pump. Mukum sp? or something like that Takes about an hour to rig up. 
Remove carb, remove intake, you'll see two holes with a rubber check valve held in by a metal clip, throw that crap out and plug one of the holes( dried rtv sealant in the cone cap is what I use as a plug) leave it long enough so that the intake will keep it push snuged in the hole. Doing this changes it from pressure to pulse. (What the fuel pump needs in order to work) put your cleaned carb on and mount the pump with new fuel hose and connector.


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## 1MoreKast (Mar 15, 2008)

RJohnson442 said:


> If you do decide to convert over to a fuel pump. Sell the old tank and you'll have almost enough for all the new parts. Plastic tank, new line with a primer bulb, fuel line connector to match and a jap eBay pump. Mukum sp? or something like that Takes about an hour to rig up.
> Remove carb, remove intake, you'll see two holes with a rubber check valve held in by a metal clip, throw that crap out and plug one of the holes( dried rtv sealant in the cone cap is what I use as a plug) leave it long enough so that the intake will keep it push snuged in the hole. Doing this changes it from pressure to pulse. (What the fuel pump needs in order to work) put your cleaned carb on and mount the pump with new fuel hose and connector.


That doesn't sound too horrible. I would have figured it'd be a bigger hassle.


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## RJohnson442 (May 14, 2013)

Here's a link with pics and all the info to do it
http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson/Pressureized Fuel Tanks.htm


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