# Bellows



## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well got into the bellows after seeing the bad one on bottom. The marina that told this guy it was safe should be shut down. Grabbed the bell housing and lifted to pull the clamps and the main bellows ripped almost in half. Turned out all three where shot. Went to remove shifter cable and it was frayed so bad and rusted from a bellow leak it twisted right off. So hindsite now tells me I should have ordered everything at once. But if you buy a boat with an I?O in it, i definitely recommend you check the impeller and the bellows before going on the lake. At least you will know were you stand and when to do it next. Oh and if doing bellows on an alpha out drive, get a bellow stretcher too. No room to do it with your hands. If not order a tube bellow for it. A little more money but definitely easier.
On a good note I now have the tools I need for doing this every 2-3 years.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

viper1 said:


> Well got into the bellows after seeing the bad one on bottom. The marina that told this guy it was safe should be shut down. Grabbed the bell housing and lifted to pull the clamps and the main bellows ripped almost in half. Turned out all three where shot. Went to remove shifter cable and it was frayed so bad and rusted from a bellow leak it twisted right off. So hindsite now tells me I should have ordered everything at once. But if you buy a boat with an I?O in it, i definitely recommend you check the impeller and the bellows before going on the lake. At least you will know were you stand and when to do it next. Oh and if doing bellows on an alpha out drive, get a bellow stretcher too. No room to do it with your hands. If not order a tube bellow for it. A little more money but definitely easier.
> On a good note I now have the tools I need for doing this every 2-3 years.


Been there and did that for nine years with my firs ttwo Erie boats. That's why my last three boats had outboards.
Look at it this way; Give you something to do,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## dgfidler (Sep 22, 2014)

I like to do my own maintenance. I switched to a boat with jet drives after replacing the bellows on the Alpha 1 my first boat had. That was one of the nastiest, dirty repairs I had ever done. If that's considered 'routine maintenance', then 'I'm out!'. Jet or OB for me for now on


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## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

I have had outboards, i/o's, and now have inboards. I really like my inboards from a maintenance perspective and the handling they give you. I would go with outboards again, but probably never an i/o...


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well My last three boats have been I/O's , Before that outboards. I believe the i/O's handle better. And being an automobile mechanic since I was about 16 I find them much easier to maintain. The impellers are good for 2-3 years. And on a good day I can change it and reassemble in an hour to hour and a half. Bellows get checked every 5 years. But other then that I do a tune up every year, an oil change and change lower gear lube.
All but the bellows I did on all my out boards too. With luck them bellows will be good for 8-10 years. And on the Alpha are easy to check.
I also prefer my own labor to a marina. After all the marina in Coony said this was turn key and everything was good. Nice to be on dry land knowing my boat is 100% rather in the water wondering why i'm sinking. 

And Short drift your right. I love being hands on. Too old to have much free time to get in trouble with! LOL!


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## nicklesman (Jun 29, 2006)

I wanna change mine but am nervous. Would love to save the money. I have a small tear in my shift cable bellow so it will get changed too. Marinas want 750 to do it. The OEM kit is 250. I would love to save 500 just don't want to screw it up.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

Thats one of the reasons I don't own I/Os anymore personally.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well when i bought my first i/o i had to admit i didn't have the money to pay others to maintain. But i've always been a hands on sort and prefered to do anything i was able too.
If you got a leak in a bellows other than exhaust your taking in water. And it will destroy your shift cable creating a bigger problem. The drive bellows with ruin a gimbal bearing u joints and possibly sink a boat. Exhaust isn't a big deal. The impeller is an easy job for anyone mechanically inclined. The rest can be too. Just tight and you need to take your time.
Right now my bell housing is off and it's all exposed if any one would like to look you welcome. Then you could see what's required. And I think I'll split the lower case and do impeller today or tomorrow. 
But if your interested your welcome to stop. I live in Salem ohio,


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Here is a simple description of the steps after removing the out drive. Removing my out drive consists of taking out the front pin on my trim cylinders(one nut) And removing 4 nuts off the drive, then lifting off. Oh ant that water line(just heater hose like on a car, is the toughest part. LOL! A real bugger getting on! But just push and twist and it does.


Once the drive is removed, a more complete inspection can be done.
Look into the drive shaft hole and notice the inner bellows and gimbal bearing.
The bellows should be dry. This means no oil and no water.
The bearing center should turn smooth with no looseness or binding.
The U-joint assembly should have no rust.

Typically, you will find water, milky oil and rust if the bellows have been leaking.
If you only find drive oil in the bellows, then you have a bad front drive seal which will have to be fixed.

How much can you do yourself?

It depends on the tools and mechanical experience you have.

This is were they tell you it require 2300.00 worth of tools. In reality it requires a special socket to tighten and untighten the shift cable. 28.00 An alignment shaft 75.00, A pin removal tool 8.00 a puller if gimble bearing need changed( rentable or loaned from a parts store.) And a exhaust bellow expansion tool 25.00 if sticking to original bellow. ( they now got what they call a tube. Quick and easy and needs no expansion tool.) and a 1/4 inch drive rachet and extension with a swivel. I already had the shaft. And buying all the rest of the tools, the whole bellows rebuild, new shift cable and accessories, a thermostat and all new impeller, housing and gaskets and bellow cement was less them 250.00 actual parts now come to closer to 150.00 Not bad considering what a marina charges. And all could be done in one day or day and a half if all things were bought before starting. 

Disassembly 
Turn the steering to one side and remove the trim sender's two screws.(adjusting screws )
Tie the sender up out of the way.
Turn to the other direction and remove the other trim sender.
Note: If the trim senders are bad, this will be the chance you have to replace them.

Now, take the hinge pin tool with the 1/2" breaker bar and remove both hinge pins.
You will have to turn the steering one direction and then the other to get them out.

"This is where i vary from standard. If changing all the bellows. and why wouldn't you after
doing all this. I simply Raise bell housing to expose and start cutting with a pocket knife.
After their all cut Carefully pull the bellhousing away from the gimbal housing while pulling
some of the extra shift cable though the shift cable bellows." Also VERY IMPORTANT" When you have the two haves off. take a pic or draw a pic of position of hose clamps. They need to be replaced the same. 

Now that you have the hinge pins out, take a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket on a long extension
and with a swivel to loosen the bellows clamps.
The bellows should have been glued in place and will require some fuss'n to get them off.
Also remove the exhaust bellows and the water hose clamps.
By now you should have noticed that the shift cable is still attached.
Carefully pull the bellhousing away from the gimbal housing while pulling
some of the extra shift cable though the shift cable bellows.
Note! There should be a small clamp on the small end of the shift cable bellows.
REMOVE THE SMALL CLAMP FIRST!

If changing the Gimble bearing.
Now you have great access to the gimbal bearing.
Take your new slide hammer and pull the bearing out.

If the bearing is stuck, you may need to use SAFE heat.
Another little tick is to drill a series of small holes through and all around the aluminum race.
DON'T DRILL INTO THE GIMBAL HOUSING!

Cleaning up:
Take the time to clean all the parts before reassembly.
Scrape any barnacles from the transom and bellhousing.
Some sand paper will be needed to clean the areas where the bellows seat.
Look where the gimbal bearing was pressed in. Is there corrosion?
If so, carefully sand the corrosion clean so it's smooth.

Gimbal Bearing installation:
Take the new gimbal bearing and rotate the outer stainless shell
until you can see the hole in the aluminum race.
This grease hole will NEED to line up with the grease passage in the gimbal housing!
I like to mark the bearing with black marker so I can see how the hole needs to line up.

Take some oil or light grease and coat the inside of where the bearing seats and
the outside perimeter of the bearing.
Install your new driver rod onto the bearing driver tool and line the bearing in the housing.
Use a good dead-blow hammer and whack the bearing in *STRAIGHT*!!!

When the bearing is fully seated, it will make a different hammering noise.

The bearing MUST go in straight. IF it starts to COCK then STOP and pull it back out!!
Take some sand paper and smoothen any burrs that it made.
Regrease and try again.

Once it's cocked, you MUST pull it out or aluminum will build up behind the race.


Feel the housings where the u-joint bellows are going to seat.
Do you feel the groove?
That groove must be clean and that groove will determine how far the bellows go on.
When installing the bellows..... you will be "feeling" to see if the rim of the bellows seats into that groove.

We need to first install the water hose.
This is where most people give-up.

The water hose is VERY difficult to get in place!

Measure the hose to 13" and cut off any extra.
Make sure you purchased the correct diameter hose!
The hose comes in two sizes, 5/8" and 3/4".

Put the clamp loosely on one end of the hose...real loose......
and put a little soap and water inside the hoses end. (I use grease)

Now, push and twist the hose onto the transom tube.

This will SEEM impossible. But it will go!

Be patient and keep trying. It is VERY important to get that hose all the way on!
Now that you have killed yourself and you HATE your boat.... we need to attach the other end of the hose to the bellhousing fitting.

The clamp must be properly positioned to face down. Use a 5/16" swivel 1/4" drive socket to tighten the clamps up.

If you completed correctly the last procedure then you should quit your lucrative desk job and become a Mercruiser Mechanic!



Now it's time to glue your u-joint bellows in place.
Do NOT install the bellows without bellows adhesive!

It's important to note how the clamps will be positioned
The bellows will first be installed on the bellhousing. The clamp will face down opposite the side with the water hose.
When we install the bellhousing to the gimbal housing (transom) we will have to have the clamp positioned
with the screw facing down on the stb. side.

Now.... note that the bellows has a "Forward" and "up" at one end.
This means the obvious!

Coat the "rear" end of the bellows (inside) with bellows adhesive and before the glue dries, push the bellows onto the bellhousing.

It should almost "snap" in place when the grooves line up.

Make SURE that they are straight BEFORE the glue dries!

Now, position the clamp and gently snug up to tighten.

The next step will be to coat the other end with bellows adhesive and place the clamp loosely on the bellows.

Make sure the clamp is positioned with the screw facing down on the right!

Push the entire bellhousing assembly up and into place while feeding the the shift cable back through its bellows.
You will have to be feeling inside the hole to assist the bellows into place.
Also, you will have to push the bellhousing WAY IN to "snap" the bellows onto the groove.
While this is taking place, you also have to watch that the clamp has not fallen out of place!

Once you feel that the bellows are fully in place, hold it there for 5 minutes to let the glue set-up.
Now take your 1/4" ratchet set with a long long extension and a swivel 5/16" socket on the end and snug up the clamp.
Inspect carefully to make SURE the clamp is straight and in place.
DON'T over tighten the clamp!!

Now that both clamps are snug, you can get the hinge pins installed.
There should be fiber side washers on either side between the bellhousing and the gimbal ring.
If they look worn, replace them.
Align the washers and the bellhousing up.
Apply a drop of good lock-tight to the hinge pin threads and install the pins.

Torque the pins to 40 lbs and install the senders.

Grease the hinge pin zirt fittings.

Now it's time to inspect your work.
Look at the clamps again, are they perfect?
Did the bellows seat completely>
Is the water hose kinked?
If you didn't cut the water hose OR if you didn't get it ALL the way on, then it will kink.

It's simple to fix, just redo everything again.

We still have to contend with the exhaust bellows.
This is where you get to use your new exhaust bellows expansion tool!
This tool will pay for itself with just ONE use.
Clamp the exhaust bellows first to the gimbal housing (transom).
You really don't need adhesive for the exhaust.
The clamp should be on the bottom if possible.

Now place the other clamp on the rear end and get them position CLOSE to the installed position.
Work the bellows expansion tool in through the bellhousings exhaust passage and into the bellows.
Expand the tool and place the lock in place.
Pull on the tool to work the bellows up onto the bellhousing.
Now, slide the metal rod pin through the hole in the tool. This allows you to release the tool so you can
tilt the bellhousing up to access the last clamp.

Hey! your practically done!

Finish up by properly installing the drive and go boating.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

nicklesman said:


> I wanna change mine but am nervous. Would love to save the money. I have a small tear in my shift cable bellow so it will get changed too. Marinas want 750 to do it. The OEM kit is 250. I would love to save 500 just don't want to screw it up.


 Well I was a mechanic a long time. But i too was worried about it at first. Combination of the scary stories others told of doing it. And the thought it wouldn't cost that much if it was easy. So i started watch u-tube videos. Still couldnt believe it could be that easy. So i bought the stern drive book and started examining the pics and reading. Then i thought I can do that. LOL! So I did, First time bellows were fine, so only tore off the drive and replaced seals and gaskets. Didn't really need to. Just getting my feet wet. I also changed the impeller which proved to be a piece of cake. I did make up a pressure tester to check for leaks. But it was cheap. And never had a problem. Guess my confidence gets better each time.
But like I said, even with an out board you should replace the impeller ever 2-3 years and most companies say every year. And the gear lube should be changed yearly to inspect for water in drive. And also i always tuned and changed oil every year. I found this to be a lot harder for myself.
So weather or not i/o or outboard maintenance is required. If your doing your own then cost isn't a whole lot higher. And work is depending on person. But if you dont maintain your own boat then you must have a good paying job. And that's great. But us old retired guys have to be able to have a boat they can maintain. LOL!


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## alighthouse (Jul 24, 2006)

Viper u make it sound so easy wanna come hookup the exhaust bellows it's a real PIA getting that bellow stretched and on the bellhop sing without it coming off

Ohh on a side note u really don't need a special tool to remove/tighten the shift cable.. a 9/16 sparkplug socket does the trick


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

alighthoit quicse said:


> Viper u make it sound so easy wanna come hookup the exhaust bellows it's a real PIA getting that bellow stretched and on the bellhop sing without it coming off
> 
> Ohh on a side note u really don't need a special tool to remove/tighten the shift cable.. a 9/16 sparkplug socket does the trick


Lol! Aggravating for sure. The socket is made like a 9/16 deep wheel. But is made like a spark physicist. The cable needs to come out the center so no room for a rachet. So there is a nut fore a wrench. Also the wall needs turned down to fit in. Got my bellow stretcher yesterday day for the exhaust bellows. Ill let you know the differance. Honestly the water house was the worse. Lol.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Also don't want to make it sound so easy. But its not brain surgery either. It can be aggravating like you say about the hoses. But I have arthritis in both hands and even with my painful fingers that want to curl. And not much strength in my hands these days don't make it any easier.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well got my son to give me a hand yesterday. My RA arthritis has progressed to the point i have little strength in my hands and my fingers lack the dexterity they use to have. But in a couple hours we had all the bellows on and ready to do impeller. I have to say, that Bellow stretcher made for the exhaust bellow makes it so easy it's hard to believe. Took less the 15 minutes to put that exhaust bellow on and clamp. A new record for us.
So finishing quicker then normal i tore down the lower and got impeller out and ready to reassemble.
This impeller was about 1/4 inch from touching the walls. And had been run so hot it melted. The housing had a lot of the dried rubber on it. But it was hard as plastic now. Just praying damage wasn't done to motor or out drive. Remains to be seen. Neglect in its truest form

impeller new compared to one i tore out. http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/v...2015-05/20150524_183357_zps9obhvqab.jpg.html]








05/20150524_183357_zps9obhvqab.jpg.html]









housing new compared to old. The black is melted and dried rubber.

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/viper1233/media/Mobile Uploads/2015-05/20150524_183906_zpsfg5r3ggk.jpg.html]









Bellows so rotten they actually tore apart when pulled.

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/viper1233/media/Mobile Uploads/2015-05/20150524_183501_zpskc1zdsux.jpg.html]









Well hoping i find nothing else after assembly. But not to confident of that after seeing this.


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## nicklesman (Jun 29, 2006)

Hey viper if your interested in recouping a little money on them tools I would rent them off of ya for a weekend.


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

whatever you do be sure and replace the water line going from the outdrive to the transom. we were up on erie and our boat would die every time we shifted into reverse. so I put the boat in the shop at Geneva marina to get the shift cable adjusted. he wasn't bad on adjusting the cable. but told us the water line was leaking and when we got home after our vacation we needed to replace it. well the next day out as we was coming back in I look down and the heat hand is all the way over in the hot. I shut the boat down and let it cool off then start on in. anything over about 12 to 14 mph and the heat hand would start to climb. if the mechanic at the marina had told us just how bad the water line was I would have had it replaced.

got home and put it in the shop to have all the bellows water line and shift cable replaced. then found the drive coupler was bad and had it replaced along with both u joints and drive yoke. took it to Brookville and made one run down the lake and stopped to play in the water. started back up and was running like a 3 leg dog. put it back in the shop and both head gaskets had blown. all this just because the mechanic told us to change the water line when we got home. I would have been happy to have paid him to change that water line. so if the bellows is rotten then the water line probably needs replaced.

that impeller looks like the motor was run without water. we were working on an old sea rays carb and turned the water off. then after getting the carb finished we started the motor without turning the water back on. my impeller looked a lot like yours does.
sherman


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

viper1 said:


> Well got my son to give me a hand yesterday. My RA arthritis has progressed to the point i have little strength in my hands and my fingers lack the dexterity they use to have. But in a couple hours we had all the bellows on and ready to do impeller. I have to say, that Bellow stretcher made for the exhaust bellow makes it so easy it's hard to believe. Took less the 15 minutes to put that exhaust bellow on and clamp. A new record for us.
> So finishing quicker then normal i tore down the lower and got impeller out and ready to reassemble.
> This impeller was about 1/4 inch from touching the walls. And had been run so hot it melted. The housing had a lot of the dried rubber on it. But it was hard as plastic now. Just praying damage wasn't done to motor or out drive. Remains to be seen. Neglect in its truest form
> 
> ...


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

I did keep all the pics . I though you said some where you said you were told this boat was in great shape. glad you gt the know how to fix it up.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well I did say that. I bought the boat from a member on here. He said he had it a couple years. But he bought from a place in conneaut that sold boats. He had them go all over it and they told him it was good to go. Which he told me. But unless you know when and whats been changed how do you know when to do it next? So figured Id check any how. I got a little irritated when i found the billows rotted. But instead of getting mad I called the boat place who sold it to him. The man put me on hold and then come back and said "I do remember the boat and the man" Surprised me after 2 years. But he said the man was super picky. Had them go all over the boat checking. And everything was A1 and to use it and enjoy. Thats when i told him about the bellows. Long story short they pulled one over on him. The owner seemed straight up with what he knew. But he said he didn't know a lot about it. So not his fault, I traded middle of winter and neither could start or test drive. So we both get the consequences. But i wanted an islander for a long time. So if it takes longer to get ready it just takes longer. But should be a warning to them who have their work done. When I do mine. I know exactly what i got. When some one else doses it your at their mercy. And that goes for outboards to! As far as being able to , i'm afraid health issues may stop that soon. But any fair mechanical minded person should be able to do it. Like i said when i started I gave an open invitation to watch and follow. 5 people did take me up on it. THey now will be doing there own.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

viper1 said:


> Well I did say that. I bought the boat from a member on here. He said he had it a couple years. But he bought from a place in conneaut that sold boats. He had them go all over it and they told him it was good to go. Which he told me. But unless you know when and whats been changed how do you know when to do it next? So figured Id check any how. I got a little irritated when i found the billows rotted. But instead of getting mad I called the boat place who sold it to him. The man put me on hold and then come back and said "I do remember the boat and the man" Surprised me after 2 years. But he said the man was super picky. Had them go all over the boat checking. And everything was A1 and to use it and enjoy. Thats when i told him about the bellows. Long story short they pulled one over on him. The owner seemed straight up with what he knew. But he said he didn't know a lot about it. So not his fault, I traded middle of winter and neither could start or test drive. So we both get the consequences. But i wanted an islander for a long time. So if it takes longer to get ready it just takes longer. But should be a warning to them who have their work done. When I do mine. I know exactly what i got. When some one else doses it your at their mercy. And that goes for outboards to! As far as being able to , i'm afraid health issues may stop that soon. But any fair mechanical minded person should be able to do it. Like i said when i started I gave an open invitation to watch and follow. 5 people did take me up on it. THey now will be doing there own.


After re-reading the total post and all the response's, I went outside and gave my Yamaha outboard a big kiss on the cowl and hug on rhe lower unit.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

Sorry, just hit the wrong button to leave this thread. Have a safe evening.


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

your right, NOW YOU KNOW WHATS BEEN DONE[and right. ] looks like a fine outfit. enjoy your new boat.


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

you have been great about posting about your problems with the bellows on your new to you boat. im sure it has helped many to check there boats. a leaky bellows out on erie can be a disaster waiting to happen.
sherman


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

yep its been a good learning for all. IF you need a couple extra hands I,d be glad to help .


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well I have had 4 private messages and 2 phone calls about this. And so many making replys I figured Id share as I go. I hope it helps others. Now there is a difference between the Alpha one R_RM and the Alpha gen 2. But mostly gasket and case designs inside. Also the newer Gen twos after 1989 are som what easier as many things are combined for easier maintenance. Both drives should be pretty basic to any mechanic. If you can take it apart you can put it together. Although it is tough putting bellows on with no hand strength. The impellers on an Alpha of either type gets change with out removing out drive. Simply split the lower part of out drive change and put together. Body let me down today. Tilled a small garden and i was feeling bad before it. Then come in for lunch and fell asleep. So rest today and tomorrow I'll reassemble lower. If any one is interested in how let me know and i'll post more pics of steps and what gets changed. The impeller job is real easy.


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## boyrafly (May 1, 2015)

nice information
thanks all


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

boyrafly said:


> nice information
> thanks all


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

HEY leave that tilling to me, when my tractor comes back, this week they say. I,ll drive over and rotovate it.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Thanks Bounty hunter. But my tilling is done. I also have a tractor with a 5 foot tiller. I still enjoy it.


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## nicklesman (Jun 29, 2006)

Well I am going for it. I opted for a little better boots so with tools boots shift cable and impellor I was at 364 hope I don't mess this up


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

nicklesman said:


> Well I am going for it. I opted for a little better boots so with tools boots shift cable and impellor I was at 364 hope I don't mess this up


Well if i can help with info just hit me up. Not a pro by know means. But I am learning a lot more daily. LOL!


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Out working on the lower drive of the boat. In the garage with a ceiling fan blowing on me. But being cooler didn't help much as the humidity was still to bad. So i came back in to stop my chest from hurting. 
But before coming in I assembled the impeller ,housing , plate and gaskets. Added a new oil ring and proceed to put back together. But first I thought just a second peek at the upper part of drive. So with a light i started looking through holes and cavities that separating exposed. Much to my dislike I found were the lower drive shaft off impeller inserts. There is what looks like a melted seal and o - ring. 
So more research of the diagrams to figure out exactly what and how to replace. Sure glad this isnt a normal thing. Cause... Yep overheating from neglect. Looks like I may learn how to rebuild an out drive next. LOL!


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Turns out the upper oil seals are both melted and distorted. And a real bear to change including buying more tools. More time and money then I want to invest at this time. But i will put aside and attempt rebuilding it later.
I got on Craig's list and was successful in acquiring another upper in Conny yesterday. Another day wasted but 30.00 for a 300-600 unit used was a steal. So off I went. Checked seals and it looked ok. But for 30.00 a risk i was willing to take. 
But the fact this engine had only 6oz. of gear lube, the engine was overheated to the point of impeller be worn so bad. And that the boat ran less then 5 min. I now know the owner had to know all this I believe. Tried to give benefit of the doubt. But had to much damage for even the most unknowing person not to know. 
Because of this I believe i'll place it in a transit dock at Berlin for a few days to a week and run the devil out of it. Before attempting to take to Erie. Only way i'll be sure I have caught it all! Trouble with catching someone in a lie, is you have to wonder what was lies and what was not. ;(


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## nicklesman (Jun 29, 2006)

Well I started my journey today. Removed my out drive. Seems like is is in great shape. Real clean. No rust on shaft or u joints. Popped bellows of housing. Tomorrow I will work on shift cable and pull housing off. I also loosened both hinge pins before removing out drive. Went smooth so far. Will probably rent slide hammer and pull gimbal also.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

I was going to change my Gimble Bearing but it looked new. I found a sticker saying it had new transmission done. I assume that was upper. I could tell the universals were new. Hopefully I can salvage it later on.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well the two halves are together and pressure checked the oil chamber today. Then installed on the boat. On cylinder either drifted out a 1/2 inch. So had to realign them before installing the trim cylinders. Then filled with gear lube and installed new gaskets on both plugs. The trim was set at just under 3" and this boat calls for 6.5 inches +- 1/4" So will set it tomorrow as its getting late and i'm worn out. Will set trim adjustment and limit switch and the trim gauge sending unit. Also have to install the inside end and adjust shifting cable. Take a second scan of everything then fire it up and check it out.
Dont normally take this long so dont think it was it causing the problems. It was simply waiting on parts, and my health. A person could do this in a day easy. 2 at most. If prepared right and no screwing around. Which at my age. I sit and rest, enjoy some water or a cup of coffe quite often. Not to mention the visitors I get to watch and shoot the breeze. LOL! Now if the lower unit is ok I should be fine.


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## tomb (Oct 9, 2004)

Shortdrift said:


> After re-reading the total post and all the response's, I went outside and gave my Yamaha outboard a big kiss on the cowl and hug on rhe lower unit.


That hilarious........ and justified!


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well each to their own. But i find I/O's a lot better. Very little to repair on an out drive yourself. And awful expensive for us poor boys. I guess if you can't do your own or just don't want to either is ok. The older outboards weren't bad. I did work on some. But after about 35-40 years of them i find my I/O's relaxing. LOL!


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

One more thing! If you're doing bellows be sure to check out drive for play before beginning. Also make sure the side pins are tight. After getting mine together I noticed it. And I didn't check pin holes which i suspect it is. No problems as it isnt that much. But had i known I would have bought another bell housing. That goes on the list for next time. Should be 5 years or more.


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## c. j. stone (Sep 24, 2006)

WoW! I've owned a ton of boats in my time-always o/b's. Always thought I'd like an I/O! After reading this info, I don't know why anyone would buy one!? Maybe not an outboard either! Like they say, a boat is a hole in the water to throw money into!!!


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well maintenance is required on all Boats and motors. personally I've spent more money on outboards myself. Dont take me as an example on this boat. Unless you're the type to add gas and go. If so you'll have problems with any boat. This boat shows all the signs of pure neglect. Commonly seen in boats owned by gas and go type people. All boats do require maintenance. Once caught up to where this one should have been it will be a easy job. Change your impeller every 2-3 years , change your oil and tune up every spring and you'll be good to go. Neglect any one of these and they'll come back to bite you. Oh and out drive have bellows too. And on an outboard hope you never have to replace the power unit. But the I/O is very similar to a car or truck engine. This alone makes it easier for most us mechanics. No a outboard is a whole total beast when repairs are made. Making taking to a dealer to be robbed most likely.


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## nicklesman (Jun 29, 2006)

Bump for fellow members


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Well honestly outboards have bellows too! And a lot of times an out board needs even more, and most times individuals cant do it. Any decent mechanic who knows their foot from their hand can do this. And the price is way less then i have dumped into an out board at times. The work isnt hard. And don't require all the special equipment they say. Most auto mechanics have most of it. I did buy like three tools. But now I have them, so no problem. And most can be borrowed from others if wanted. But for them who don't do their own work and have little boats with 9.9's or so outboards are cheaper. But seen my buddies throw much money into their newer 200 and 250 or better out boards. For a boat a man wants to keep and not trade a lot i'm convinced I/O's are cheaper in the long run. I know i'll never own another Outboard unless its a 20 Hp or smaller. Each to their own. But the old saying is true. And if you cant afford maintenance you really cant afford a boat! One reason I picked the easiest to work on.


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