# Achieving A Flawless Epoxy Topcoat...



## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

*If you're interested in trying to achieve a flawless finish, meaning as flawless as possible, consider trying these tips:*

*Put down a clean piece of paper for a work area*. 
It can be an old magazine or the backside of something you copied, but its always good to have a clean work area and a clean spot to place the lure before you begin.
*
Wash your hands thoroughly first. *
Your hands very often contain dust of one type or another which will fall onto the sticky surface and show in the final finish.

*Clean your brush of all dust particles* by fanning it with your finger or thumb till you can no longer see dust flying off the bristles. Also remove any loose bristles so they can't get dragged into the epoxy during the application process.

*Mix the epoxy on or in a clean non-porous surface.*
Some guys like the bottom of a soda can. I like medicine cups because if you buy them by the hundred count, they are cheap and disposable...about 4 cents a piece...for four cents, I don't have to slow down and clean anything when I'm done and if I'm mixing envirotex instead of Devcon 2 ton epoxy, the medicine cups have markings on the side which help you achieve a perfect 50/50 mix every time.

*I prefer use acid brushes for applying the epoxy*.
I crimp the tip near the bristles with a pair of pliers to lock down the bristles and fan the brush to remove loose bristles and dust. I do not clean the acid brushes. I toss them when I'm done, because for the cost (about sixteen cents if you buy them in bulk), I don't have to repeatedly expose myself to the toxic solvents required to clean any type of epoxy. For me at least, it is not worth the health hazard, which you will repeatedly encounter if you make baits in any quantity at all...say 50 baits a year times only two coats per bait...you are inhaling highly toxic chemicals 100 times per year...unless you wear a mask and how much trouble is that?

I prefer to avoid mixing on paper or any other surface that might have tiny loose particles on it, because the tiniest of particles will usually show in the finish after it dries.

*Mix thoroughly.*
I use wooden sticks similar to popsicle sticks and despite the idea that it may throw a few bubbles into the mix, they work great. The heat gun removes *all* bubbles anyway. I know others prefer plastic mixing sticks of some typbut I have easier access to popsicle sticks so I use them and toss them after using both ends several times. 99 times out of a hundred if you have bad patches which are still tacky after 24 hours, you failed to mix properly. Once in a great while, I've gotten a bad tube of Devcon. Devcon seems to have a finite shelf life. Try to buy the tubes that have the least amount of yellow in the one tube. It seems to be the "freshest" stuff and goes on a LOT easier and does not have the abbreviated working time that the very yellow tubes have. I've had no such problems with Envirotex lite.
*
After application of the epoxy,* take a moment and turn the bait over as you hold it under a light and carefully examine it for any fish eyes, missed spots or dust boogers. If you find dust, you can at times just remove them by wiping them off with your finger or rolling a toothpick next to them to sort of roll them onto the toothpick.

If I find minor dust or epoxy specks in the finish during the first one or two coats, you can usually leave them as they are and just sand them lightly with fine grade sandpaper prior to the application of the next coat. Of course the final coat is the one where you won't have the luxury if ignoring them because you can't sand them out afterward without scuffing the final finish.

*Once you apply the epoxy LEAVE IT ALONE* and put it on the spinner or spin it by hand by holding the bait by the tail with a vice grips. Don't keep brushing it and trying to spread it...It will only get progressively worse and it will almost always flow itself out nice and level after normal brushing.

*Try to apply the next coat before the previous coat has fully cured.*.
Once the first coat has dried to the point where the bait can be carefully handled, apply the next coat. By doing this, the next coat will chemically bond to the first giving you the best possible bond between coats. You have a generous window of opportunity here; if you apply the second coat within about 48 hours, it will bond to the first.

I've had occasion to have to sand out aberrations in a finish and have noticed that allowing the epoxy to fully cure between coats creates a distinct separation between the two, which could create the possibility of de-lamination of the later coats, especially with envirotex under certain conditions and most especially if the first coat is applied over foiling. With Devcon, I try to apply the second or next coat after 4 to six hours if possible.

With envirotex, which I use almost exclusively these days,* I find that leaving it sit for a few minutes, after its mixed, with a cover over the medicine cup* (to preclude dust settling on the surface) *makes it easier to work with*

*Also note that allowing it to sit for a few minutes seems to let it discharge the static electrical charge* that seems to build up when you mix envirotex. That static charge cause it to suck dust from the air like a magnet. Let it sit, and the static charge dissipates.

*Allowing it to sit for a few minutes, seems to make it gel but just slightly.* Because it is a bit thicker after allowing it to sit for ten to 15 minutes, it behaves much more like Devcon...goes on evenly, less prone to run, and far less prone to show dust and foreign particles. It will only slightly abbreviate your working time, but it will go on a bit thicker and require less coats to achieve any desired level of protection. By allowing it to thicken just a bit, I find that I can usually get by with three to four coats instead of four to six thin coats and the finishes are clearly superior and have far fewer flaws.* It is probably the best tip I can share about envirotex.* 

I've found that applying envirotex immediately after mixing encourages separations and fish eyes. I know there are times when you only want one thin coat, but even then I let it sit for 10 minutes and try to apply it sparingly while still covering the bait completely.


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

I posted this again because I get a lot of private messages and emails on this topic.

I will come back later and update this topic since I've learned a few new things since I wrote this article in 2008.

Feel free to throw your tips in here too.


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## Bulldawg (Dec 3, 2007)

Great tips there Vince , the last tip you mentioned about letting it sit after mixing is a huge part of making the final product look great . I actually let it set more than 15 minutes though , if I can let it go for a 1/2 hour without it getting too thick I will do that instead of 15 minutes . I look forward to more tid bits on the epoxy, I feel that is the hardest step and most important is building a great looking bait .


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

Thanks, Aaron. Another idea, one that I acquired from rjbass, is to use EX-74. It is an epoxy topcoat made by Envirotex. 

It is a bit thicker, which makes it easier to apply, and it contains UV inhibitors to help preserve the punch and integrity of the pigments contained in the paint.
A lot of people are unaware of how fast the sun fades some of the brighter colors. 

The EX-74 also has a smaller propensity towards attracting dust when it is mixed. 

The downside is that it cannot be purchased in smaller quantities, at least not the last time I bought it. It must be purchased a gallon at a time, meaning one half gallon of Part A, the resin, and one half gallon of Part B, the hardener. It does have a great shelf life, so if you split a gallon with a friend or if you paint enough lures, buying a gallon is not too much of a problem.


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## sonar (Mar 20, 2005)

Thank YOU Vince,, for that "insight",, on your coatings,,& the advantages of it!! SO,, How much is a gallon of this good stuff gonna set a guy back,,IF I may ask??? ----->>>>>sonar<<<<<-----


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

Sonar, I said the EX74 is purchased a gallon at a time...it's actually two gallons, meaning a gallon of resin and a gallon of hardener.

The cost is about $120 for the two gallon kit.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

This would make a good sticky at the top!

IMO "Flawless" is pretty tough to achieve with any epoxy especially if #1 - you're working out of your basement and #2 - If you're trying to get by with 2 coats or less. My baits get 2 generous coats of E-Tex and very rarely do I get a bait thats "Perfect" by my standards....Its pretty impossible if you ask me, but I'm a perfectionist and what I see, most others overlook. For me, they are lures meant to catch big toothy predators which chew them up good after the first time anyhow. 

Like most, I work out of my basement and the temps can get cooler down there in the winter time. Another thing I like to do, is to submerse the E-Tex bottles into a small bucket of hot/warm water for about 10-15 minutes. This allows the etex to become more workable and easier to apply. I know some guys like their epoxy chilled, but I have tried both and heating it slightly makes for less bubbles, clearer and easier application. When heated like that, it does reduce the work time a bit, but I will have a heat gun handy for the last few baits in my run. I generally epoxy about 8 baits before mixing a new batch....I'm curious to hear how many baits some of you guys do in one run?

Another thing to note is that I tried another brand of epoxy called Diamond II...it is much more expensive that the E-Tex. I could not justify the additional cost. It seemed to be just as thick and the finish pretty much the same...Some claimed that its thicker and can get by with less coats...not true for me...I have read the same claims for the EX-74 and have not tried it yet, but have been satisfied with the E-Tex especially after having a good routine with it and good results.


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## rjbass (Aug 1, 2007)

Paul,

I have used just about every top coat product out there including the Diamond II product. They all have their pros and cons. Switching is hard because there is a learning curve with some that are different from others. I have used EX74 for a while now and will not switch until someone comes up with a one part top coat that you can dip and hang and forget about it...(good luck). EX74 is similar to Etex but I find it to not attract dust particles like Etex does. I only do 4 baits at a time because I like to baby sit them on the turner to make sure I do get that "close to perfect" finish.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

I may have to give the ex74 a try sometime...Do they offer smaller samples to try do you know??


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## grub_man (Feb 28, 2005)

ShutUpNFish,

Many in the rod building community claim that Diamond II is nothing more than repackaged EX-74. I don't believe you can get smaller samples, but if you figure out how, I would like to know.

Joe


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

Paul, if you'd like, you can try some of mine.
Shoot me a pm.


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