# Need a rod and reel



## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

Lookin to do some fishing in E. Harbor this year. I am not a novice fisherman but am with a casting setup. I am looking to fish the pads and whatever else it takes to drag some bass outa there.
Any suggestions on a setup that would work for this? I would like a set up that won't give me headaches during the learning process but don't want to spend big money on a setup. 
I would prefer a setup that is multi purpose if possible.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Al


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## Nightcrawler666 (Apr 17, 2014)

Bass pro is going to be having a sale on their pro qualifier reels starting the 17th I believe for $49.99. I would suggest a fast ratio (7+:1) putting it on a decent 7' MH fast action graphite rod spooled with 30-50lb braid. That'll get you started and do well in the pads/weeds with Texas rigs, jigs and topwater frogs. You can also still throw spinnerbaits and swimbaits on it. It won't break the bank. the pro qualifiers are ok reels to get into the casting game and braid is much easier to learn with, in addition to the fact that's it's the most efficient line for that type of cover.


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## laynhardwood (Dec 27, 2009)

I don't think braid is a good line to learn with. I think 17-20lb mono is the best to learn with. If you get a backlash with braid it really sucks to deal with . Mono is very limp and easy to get a backlash out if it happens. 
Just set your spool tight and start casting until you get the hang of it and then release a little tension and cast a little farther. It really is easy to use a baitcasting reel if you start with a tight spool tension and release it until your comfortable with different lures. I would say casting jigs and Texas rigged baits will be the best to start with. If you can't catch bass in E harbor on something Texas rigged they aren't bitting. The pro qualifier is a good entry level reel and the Bionic Blade rod is also on sale for 59.99 and it's a nice entry level rod. You can have a very nice set up for less than 150.00.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

I appreciate the input as I really don't have any idea where to start. I have been surfing around a bit and the Garcia black max has surfaced several times as a good reel. Thoughts? better/ same as the pro qualifier?


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## laynhardwood (Dec 27, 2009)

I have no experience with the black max but I like abu Garcia products


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## rustyfish (Apr 27, 2004)

I learned on a the Abu Pro Max and I'm not sure I would recommend the black max. This was 5+ years ago so I'm not sure how much they have changed. 
Never could get it set where I like it, was always casting really easy with the break loose or really hard with the break tight. Not good when my go to is speed fishing a spinner bait while floating down the creek. Every time I switched lures it started all over. 

Broke down a got a Shimano Curado. Thing was amazing out of the box. I almost never adjust it, it just cast smooth and far. Thought I would still use the pro max but I never did. Didn't take long before I picked up a second Curado. Only time I use the pro max is as on the scioto for cats, gar, buffalo where I don't that my bass rods, and It's just and extra.

As for braid that's what I used to learn. I don't thing it's that hard to get back lashes out and you are not putting kinks in your line every time like mono.


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## Nightcrawler666 (Apr 17, 2014)

I was told the bass pro reels and abu were made by the same factory, just different names on them. When shopping for an upgrade to my pro qualifier, I considered a more expensive abu model, but was dissuaded and turned to a curado instead, and glad I was. My reasoning for trying with braid is its limpness and no memory. I learned with it on a casting reel. Mono can tend to jump off the spool due to the memory it has is all. But, it is a bit cheaper. I tend to get 2 seasons out of my braided line, while my reels with mono get changed frequently.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

I would like to put braid on it. I've been using it on some of my spinning reels and really like it. Thoughts on Lb test?


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## rustyfish (Apr 27, 2004)

Depends on what you are using it for. 
I Use 30 for jig & pig and Frog fishing. Some people recommend much more but i have never had a problem. I fish from a kayak so I tend to use a little lighter line for everything (it will pull the kayak before it breaks). I also tend not to use leaders so the lighter braid is a little less visable. I run 20 on my spinnerbait rod and 15-20 on my finesse rods. You can run pretty heavy braid and its still going to preform well.
I have Power Pro Super 8 Slick, Suffix 832, and Spiderwire Invisabraid all on right now and I really cant tell you which i like better.

For under $100 I have heard good things about the Pfleuger President and some of the Lews baitcaster but I have never tried them.


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## ducman491 (Oct 31, 2011)

Gottagofishn said:


> I would like to put braid on it. I've been using it on some of my spinning reels and really like it. Thoughts on Lb test?


Buy a better reel and you'll spend less time learning from your "mistakes". My first baitcaster was a Guide Series that was a take off of a combo thatvthe rod broke. It was only $25 for the reel and it really made life difficult. I tried 10lb mono on it and it would backlash and line would getbin between the spool and the body of the reel. I think I cut a full spool of line off of that reel 4 or 5 times. I had so much trouble I put it down for 2 years and it wasn't until I bought a better reel that I tried again. 

Now use braid on everything. 50lb on my frog and jig rods and 10lb on my crank bait rod with baitcasters.

If you are going to use one rod for several applications I wouldn't go any lighter than 20lb or you may have trouble getting a big fish out of the slop.


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## Nightcrawler666 (Apr 17, 2014)

I wouldn't go lower than 30lb for braid on a casting setup man. Spinning, sure, 10,15,20 is fine. But with the way line wraps and comes off of a casting spool, you might have issues with line digging in on a hard fighting fish, pulling a snag or just setting the hook into a stump with your drag tightened down. I don't go lower than 30lb braid on casting gear, my go to setup being 50lb suffix 832 on shimano curado with a MH Fast action rod. That gets me through all the heavy stuff. I've got 30lb on a M fast action rod for more open water where I may get into some weeds and timber.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

Well, I have decided on the Curado. I have used Shimano spinning reels with good performance over the years (albeit over priced nowdays). I had picked up a Denny Brauer (Ardent) rod at the show. Not sure how that will work but it's supposed to be for topwater baits. I guess I give it a shot. The qualifying question will be how well my Lund Pro V handles the harbor. Hopefully I won't get it stuck....
Any place I should avoid up there?


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## sea nymph-O (Apr 14, 2004)

You can't go wrong with the curado it's a great reel


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Curado on sale at BPS/ for $149


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

Ok, I picked up a couple of reels. I grabbed a Curado and a Revo SX. Both very nice although the Shamano seems a bit smoother. It was a bit pricer than the Revo though so I suppose it should be. I put Trilene 12lb. test on them.
After tossing around a 3/8 casting plug in the backyard a bit I see there is a learning curve....
I hope I learn quickly as trying to undo a "professional overrun" in the boat will be a PITA. 

Are there any suggestions on settings that would help or is it just going to be practice?
Thanks for everyone's help.
Al


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## laynhardwood (Dec 27, 2009)

Gottagofishn said:


> Ok, I picked up a couple of reels. I grabbed a Curado and a Revo SX. Both very nice although the Shamano seems a bit smoother. It was a bit pricer than the Revo though so I suppose it should be. I put Trilene 12lb. test on them.
> After tossing around a 3/8 casting plug in the backyard a bit I see there is a learning curve....
> I hope I learn quickly as trying to undo a "professional overrun" in the boat will be a PITA.
> 
> ...


Set the spool braking system tight. You can loosen it as you figure it out a bit. It really isn't difficult to cast if you adjust the spool tension for different weight lures. You will get the hang of it.


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## elkhtr (Oct 23, 2006)

I'm sure someone will be able to explain this better, but I'll give it a go. Set the magnetic resistance at 50%. So, take the side off and move half the magnets in and half out. Make sure you do the same thing to magnets that are directly across from each other...that is if one is in, the magnet that is 180 degrees should be set the same, in. Or vice-versa. Or, make sure they are balanced, one in, the next out, etc. don't move three in a row in and have the next 3 out. 
Now, adjust the small tension knob so if if you're holding the rod at a 45 degree angle and press the thumb bar and adjust that so that the lure slowly falls. That small knob should be adjusted each time u switch baits to ensure the lure falls slowly.
That is a good starting point. As you get more experienced, you can lighten the tension and back off the brakes and use your thumb.
Do not cast into the wind until you get the hang of it, that will make a difference. And cause a mess
I hope I explained this so you can understand it. YouTube is a great place to check for a visual explanation. Keep at it, you'll get it


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

You Tube setting a baitcaster. Apart from that you want the tension knob so the lure slowly falls when the rod is held between 45 and 60 degrees and the spool stops when the lure hits the ground. Magnets and centrifugal pins take a bit more trial and error


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## bassclef (Jul 25, 2013)

Gottagofishn said:


> After tossing around a 3/8 casting plug in the backyard a bit I see there is a learning curve....
> I hope I learn quickly as trying to undo a "professional overrun" in the boat will be a PITA.
> 
> Are there any suggestions on settings that would help or is it just going to be practice?
> ...


For fixing backlashes, I didn't believe it myself before I tried it, but this method has worked for me every single time:


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## gumbygold (Apr 9, 2013)

My trick for undoing backlash is to not have it


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

Spent some time in the yard last night and think I am getting the hang of it. I'm still not 100% sure what which adjustment is supposed to do for what.
As I understand it there are three on the Shimano. under the side plate there are the brakes, they look like some sort of centrifugal brake. There is a fine adjustment on the same side that looks like it must be a magnetic type and then there is the tension knob on the handle side.

As I understand it, I adjust the tension knob until the bait slowly drops. In the videos it says adjust it till it drops but doesn't cause a backlash when it hits the ground. To do that I would have to adjust it so it barely drops. 

Im not sure what the brakes or the other fine tune dial are for? I have seen a several videos and some say different things...
I will learn this.... see you on the water!


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

If you're talking about the Curado, then you're right in that the spool braking system is centrifugal. You slide the brakes either to the left of right, depending on if you want the weights to be active, or inactive. The more weights you allow to be active, the greater the braking force applied.

The dial on the side is not for a magnetic adjustment. There are no magnets in the Curado. Which IMO is a good thing. The dial is used to fine tune the braking system. From my understanding, the dial somehow controls the diameter of the race inside the side plate.
Turning the dial to a higher number, increases braking force.

It's an excellent system, but may prove to be a little more difficult to learn with for a beginner. With any centrifugal braking system braking force increases with spool speed. It also lessens as spool speed diminishes. With magnetic systems braking force is not affected by spool speed. I think centrifugal systems are far better. Although I will say that I haven't used a reel with a magnetic braking system in more than 20 years. They may have made some improvements to them over the years.

As fas as adjusting the spool tension knob (the one behind the drag adjustment star and the handle. Adjusting it as you described isn't necessary, but it will help a beginner that may be having trouble getting the hang of using a baitcaster.

IMO there to 2 keys a beginner to baitcasters need to follow. One is not trying to cast for distance at first. Trying to bomb a cast before you're ready is going to cause a backlash. And two would be to never ever take your thumb off the spool. You can feel the beginnings of a backlash with your thumb. If you do, apply more thumb pressure. NEVER apply less when you feel a backlash starting.

To start set your brake weights so they're all active and set the dial on the side plate to its max. Learn to cast and as you do lessen the dial on the side plate. You'll notice a difference. Once you get used to that open up the side plate and deactivate one of the brake weights. Turn your dial back up to max and repeat the above process. The spool tension knob is just another fine adjustment that you can play with.

Oh..... and don't try to learn a baitcaster using a high powered rod, or a light bait. Especially a light bait on a high powered rod. If you do you'll find yourself wondering why you even tried a baitcaster in the first place.

A medium power fast action rod with a 3/8 - 1/2 oz weight is going to make learning much easier.

As far as the Revo goes. I don't have a clue. Never used one.


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## homepiece (May 11, 2007)

Learned a baitcaster last year. Wholly agree with those that have posted above. A couple of other tips..

Learn with a heavy bait, braking set to a higher setting, if you cast overhand, release earlier than you are used to with a spinning rod. Don't go for distance at the beginning. Don't cast into the wind until you know what you are doing. Be aware of what is behind you. If you fish sitting down or from a kayak, practice from a seated position. I learned standing up, then had to make some adjustments when casting from a kayak, especially when casting side-arm from a kayak.. When starting, use lures with low wind resistance and a heavier weight. Move to spinners and buzz baits that can catch wind after that.

Get a practice plug or cut the hook off of a heavy jig and practice in your yard. Put down a couple of targets and work at it.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

I really appreciate everyone's tips. I think I am getting the hang of it. I started throwing a 3/8 pulg around the yard with a 7"1" Med Heavy fast action rod. I find it really difficult to cast overhand as a rotator cuff injury just makes it tough to do it right. I think I will have to make it work side arm. Anyway, I am able to hit a target 35ish feet or so away with _some_ accuracy. When I tried it with a med action it was substantially easier for both distance and accuracy. I think with the crankbait rod I could probably cast this thing about a mile.
Just for kicks I decided to give it some umph with the crank rod...... the plug hit a tree....hehe.... yeah, I'm getting better at removing a backlash as well.
Thanks again everyone, I'll see you on the water!
Al


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## laynhardwood (Dec 27, 2009)

Ya you need to be careful of surroundings for sure! If you try to launch a cast and it hits something as soon as you let it go, things get expensive and ugly quick. I have done it several times and each time I think what the heck am I doing ha ha. I know better but sometimes you see some bass and get excited


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## Chris Martin (Jan 9, 2017)

When I got my brand new lews tournament speed spool, first day out with 12 pound flouro. I brought the rod back and the hook caught a little branch as I threw forward and BOOM there goes a spool full of flouro!


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## REEL GRIP (Jan 11, 2013)

BPS Pro Qualifier is without a dought the best reel out there
for the money. I like it much better than my Revo STX which
was 200 bucks. I wouldn't trade 1 Pro Qualifier for 2 Revo STX's


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

What makes the Pro Qualifier a better reel?


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Don't know about newer PQ reels but I have quite a few older models and I buy more on eBay whenever I see "the ones". Disassemble,grease and oil and I've got another gem. I freaking LOVE Pro Qualifiers!.


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## REEL GRIP (Jan 11, 2013)

I agree, I been bass fishin over 50 years, and only use Bait Casters,
I really dislike spinning gear. Used Shimano-Diawa-Abu's for years.
Kept reading the reviews on the Pro Qualifiers and had to try one.
I was SHOCKED at how well they preform. It's a good reel for twice
price. I've got 4 now and got them all on sale for $79 bucks.Amazing!!!


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## freshwaterexperience (May 23, 2014)

This is gonna sound crazy but I learned on a black max and it was tough and learned how to fix a backlash. Well one day I was at metzgers fishing and accidently lost half the reel in the marsh (bad habit of holding the side with my hand not good pressure on any reel) so I was in the market and had a buddy talk me into a browning reel that was accidently marked down. Bought two more since. Really like how easy they are to dial in and love the grips on handle! But no doubt they are all good anymore just a matter of personal pref. Second the 7 ft as well.


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