# Painting blades



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Tried posting in tackle making with no luck figure I'll try here. I'm trying to paint my own blades I got an itawa eclipse airbrush with a paasche d500 compressor. I tried to start out simple with just trying to paint the backs of some blades I got. The paint just slides off. If anyone has some time to explain some stuff I got a ton of questions pm me and I'll give u my number. Or post here. I know nothin about airbrushing so it's from the ground up. Thanks


----------



## meats52 (Jul 23, 2014)

Are you trying to paint nickel, brass, or gold blades? If you are you probably have to clean the blades first. I read a article some years back that said just handling the blades can leave oil from your skin on them. It said to clean them with acetone or denatured alcohol. I painted some blades years ago but I bought blades that already had white primer on them. I used to buy them on ebay but I haven't seen them on there in a while.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Im trying to paint some nickel ones right now but I want to paint all of them I tried cleaning and even using 400 grit sandpaper. But the paint just slides around. I got a regulator today that don't seem to help either. Does anyone knôw a step by step video to look up


----------



## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

I assume your trying to do too much too fast...it's a SLOW process of applying multiple coats with proper drying time in between coats to achieve proper saturation of color...

Slow down. Apply small amount of paint..dry it with a hair dryer...apply more till you get what you're looking for

Bit of a learning curve...my first attempts were terrible but in short order I've got a lot more confident in painting...

















Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


----------



## meats52 (Jul 23, 2014)

CarpetBagger Those are some nice looking blades. Looks like you have it figured out.


----------



## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

jjpugh said:


> Im trying to paint some nickel ones right now but I want to paint all of them I tried cleaning and even using 400 grit sandpaper. But the paint just slides around. I got a regulator today that don't seem to help either. Does anyone knôw a step by step video to look up


You absolutely need a filter between the compressor and the airbrush, water will destroy your work you need to spray paint only. If you don't have one on the compressor you can buy an inline one.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Ok I just picked up a regulator last night and put it on so would it go compressor then regulator then filter or does it matter


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Also I'm using createx water based paint my needle is 5mm I've read both to thin the paint and that the consistency is fine as is.


----------



## HookEmUp (Apr 14, 2012)

If the paint is sliding off, your probably putting it on too thick. If you didnt have regulator, this is definitely the problem. You need adjustability.
Anyways, mulitple light coats is what you want. Dry well in between coats with hair dryer or heat gun. I heat set mine the oven before clear coating. Put a white base down anywhere that is not going to be transparent. The consistency of createx will vary depending on what your using. For example, the floro colors are very thin. I use a .35mm needle at about a maintained at 10-12psi. The wicked colors, or pearls are a lot thicker. I usually thin them down to the consistency of 2% milk, and turn up the psi up until i am satisfied with how its coming out. Sometimes ill change out to the .5mm needle if im using them a lot, and not much detail work is being done. That way i dont have to mess around mixing reducer every time i change a color. 

Carpetbagger and Kgone, since your both in here, what kind of clear are you use on your blades? Im always interested to hear what others are using and how its being applied. Pm me if you dont want the whole world to know. Thx


----------



## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

I don't paint anymore everything sitting in totes waiting to go since I moved. Anyways. Ppg cut in clear or devcon, ppg is spray devcon mix in cups and paint on it self levels, I have blades 4-5 years old still look like way they did when I painted them. I plan to build a paint shop in my new house when I do I'm putting in a Monster outlet fan and will use two part auto clear I already have it ready to go. Etex works well my buddy has been using it and keys the blades hang and just cleans the drips off the bottom works very well


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

K gone when ur ready to build that paint booth 
I'll wire u some lights and that fan in exchange for some lessons on painting.


----------



## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

I use a high grade urethane...

Kevin they make a pretty sweet dual fan ducted paint booth for about $400...




Sent from my iPhone using Ohub Campfire


----------



## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

I've seen those, might be a better way to go, everything is up for consideration when I get around to it.


----------



## HookEmUp (Apr 14, 2012)

Thanks guys. Ive sprayed, dipped, and brushed Dupont 2k auto clear, moisture cure urethanes such as dick nite s81, and por15 glisten pc, and epoxies like etex lite and Devcon 2 ton. Ive also messed around with different laquers and enamels, rustoleum, krylon, testors ect. Its been one heck of a learning experience. 
Ive decided to lay off the urethanes and auto clears until i get a supplied air mask. Isocyanante's are nothing to half-ass it with when using. The results from these products are very nice though.
Envirotex looks beautiful and doesnt interfere with water based paints like mc-urethanes and auto clears. Its thinner than d2t and has a much longer pot life. I can put it on nice and thin. Epoxies are just time consuming. 
D2t cures much much harder than e-tex imo, but the pot life is so short that you can only do about 3 baits at a time. People try to thin down epoxy to make it last longer, but they arent realizing that it reduces the strength of the cured product when you do it.
Most epoxy manufacturers do not reccommend reducing it because of this. 

My next objective is to experiment with some of the trending concrete sealers over at TU. Off to home depot this wknd.

A tip for the new guy. If you use epoxy, set both parts in hot water for 15min before you mix them. You will have minimal bubbles after its mixed. If you notice bubbles on the lures, just blow on them, or hit them with a propane torch. Do not bring a flame around auto clears or urethanes though!!


----------



## K gonefishin (May 4, 2004)

I usually mix the devon in medicine cup bottoms, once it starts to get stiff just hit it with a hair drier to increase the working time. But yeah you don't have long!


----------



## HookEmUp (Apr 14, 2012)

In my experience, heating epoxy after the two are mixed, will only make it stiffer. That would only make sense being that the mixture is cured by heat via the chemical reaction and ambient temps. I remember heating devcon 2 ton after it was mixed, and having it form a hard layer on the top. Has this ever happened to you Kgone?

I also mix in medicine cups. With devon you dont have to worry about incorrect dosing because it comes pre rigged. But for etex or any other separated 2 part epoxy, you must be EXTRA careful when mixing in small doses, because its very easy to throw off the ratio. If your mixing a gallon, and your off by an ounce, it wont hurt much, but if your mixing 6 milliliters, and your off by 1 milliliter on one of the parts, that will definitely effect the outcome. If your gonna be off in measurements, i would suggest erring on the hardener side, adding more of it than your are adding of the resin.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

When u guys are painting do u prefer on a flat table or vertical


----------

