# Sighting in New Crossbow



## Ohiobassman54 (May 28, 2004)

Hey guys I just got a new Horton last Friday and got to shoot it today.At 30 yds 100grain practice tips I can hit a spot the size of a softball.But when I try the 100 grain broadhead its shoots 7 inches low 4 inches to the left.I shot 6 times and all were in the area.I,m shooting a fixed head and i did,nt think they would be that much difference in the 2.So I guess what I need to know do i sight it again with the broadheads or try another type too see if it is on with them.I,m kind of new to crossbows so any info would help.Thanks Don ohiobass54


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## labman (Sep 13, 2008)

ohiobass54 just resight in with the broads it wont take that long,i shoot a compound and my broadheads dont shoot the same as my field tips either.just move your sights.


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## GO FISH (Aug 13, 2004)

Try to adjust the vanes and the broadhead. Shoot some that are aligned togther and then opposite to see which works best. Sounds like the broadhead is steering the arrow.


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## mpd5094 (Jun 20, 2005)

That used to happen to me with fixed broadheads on my Horton. I don't have that problem since I switched to mechanical ones.


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## mepps_fisher (May 6, 2009)

i shoot a horton team realtree cross bow. i love it. i prefer the horton designed arrows. tried others and they vary way to much. my advice is to pick up a 20 pack of them. also for broadheads im using 100 grain spitfires. that along with my horton arrows my accruacy never varies. i can hit a grouping of 5 in the size a little bigger then a golf ball. goodluck this year guys. shoot straight


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## ErieAngler (Apr 15, 2006)

Ive always had this problem with bows, you have to find what shoots best for your particular bow. For my old PSE fireflight it was monotecs and slick tricks the STs would shook darn near equal to the field points and the Monotecs would shoot 2 inch to right and 3 low. Best thing is to sight in with your broad heads.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

If al of your arrows with broadheads are flying well and grouping just adjust your pins and go kill a deer or two.

If you are getting inconsistent groups from your broadheads you should consider doing some tuning work on the broadheads. It's really quick and simple (aluminum arrows)and does make a difference. 

At the very least spin test the arrows you have and save the best for hunting.

Good luck

Here is the topic discussed previously
http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=58214&highlight=spin


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## lg_mouth (Jun 7, 2004)

Slick Tricks

These heads fly just as your field points and are lethal. Spend $25 and don't look back. YOu can pick them up here and get them shipped free.

www.meanvarchery.com

Lg_mouth


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

lg_mouth said:


> Slick Tricks
> 
> These heads fly just as your field points and are lethal. Spend $25 and don't look back. YOu can pick them up here and get them shipped free.
> 
> ...


I have had good luck as well with the slick tricks.


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## Papascott (Apr 22, 2004)

If your bow is set up right and you tune your broadheads (not just aligning blades and vanes) you should get the same flight pattern. If you do not know how to tune them you can either learn or do like most and just shoot mechanicals.

I suggest reading this article it will explain everything in pretty good detail. It is written more for compounds but will help explain alot of what is happening and why. 

http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/broadhead_flight/


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## Weekender#1 (Mar 25, 2006)

Mechanicals just not Rage


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## Snook (Aug 19, 2008)

I shoot the Steelhead 100gr mechanicals out of my Horton Hunter and they fly exactly like my field tips. Great penetration too. I believe mechanicals are the way to go with the crossbows. Don't have to re-sight using field tips when shooting for practice. Saves your target too.


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## Papascott (Apr 22, 2004)

Weekender#1 said:


> Mechanicals just not Rage



I killed 4 deer with rage last year and cannot remember how many the year before. They were as dead as can be! They are expensive but fly good and leave huge holes! 

Lets hear it, why not rage? I am guessing its going to be you did not recover one after you shot it with a rage or broke off a blade when you shouldered one? Gotta share curiosity is killing me


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## Ohiobassman54 (May 28, 2004)

Thanks everyone for the information.I took your advice Lundy and resighted it.It groups my fixed heads in a 6 inch circle.and since I have a dozen of them thats the ticket.The next I buy though I think will be the mechanical heads. Again thanks to every one for the help!%. Don ohiobassman54


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## bigwalleye (Jun 21, 2006)

Man do I wish I came across this post like three weeks ago. Given: I am a novice. First year with an older Horton Hunter. So far I am 0-3 on deer and basically came to this conclusion after missing 2 more on Sunday morning. Missed a doe, reloaded as she walked away, then a nice 6 point comes in. Missed him too for good measure. After that I get a target, place it where the deer stood, then proceed to group my field points right on the money. Switch to fixed broadheads and get inconsistent results (either high or low - depending on broadhead brand). All supposedly 100gr. I've got some more homework and practice to do.

BTW, what are your suggestions for sighting in with broadheads? Use some (pack of 3)for practice only use the same brand (new pack of 3) when hunting? Guessing they get purty dull shooting into a target. As I said, I'm still learning...I'll check out these links.


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## Angler ss (May 15, 2008)

I bought my Horton a few years ago I had trouble getting my fixed blade broadhead's (muzzy's) to shoot good.Someone on OGF recomened I try bolts that have flat nocks, I was shooting the half moon type. I bought a box of flat nock carbon bolts, I don't know if it's the flat nocks or just the new bolts but I didn't have to tune them they shot great for me.
Angler ss


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## Angler ss (May 15, 2008)

I bought my Horton a few years ago I had trouble getting my fixed blade broadhead's (muzzy's) to shoot good.Someone on OGF recomened I try bolts that have flat nocks, I was shooting the half moon type. I bought a box of flat nock carbon bolts, I don't know if it's the flat nocks or just the new bolts but I didn't have to tune them they shot great for me.
Angler ss


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## ezbite (May 25, 2006)

i only shoot thunderheads from my horton. i only hunt with 3 bolts. i aline the fletchings with the blades and number each bolt 1, 2 and 3 on my down fletching. i'll shoot several shots over a few days before the season and keep track on paper which was closer to the center of the target more often. the most consistant bolt becomes my primary hunting bolt. the next best is my follow-up bolt and the 3rd, well it the 3rd. i do change blades on them all before the hunt. with this method i have the most accurate bolts i own. i dont think ive ever missed a deer with my horton, ever. ive had to do a follow-up shot, but only one that i can remember right off the top of my head. theres more to choosing bolts also. first ill weigh them, the heavier ones seem to group better(i have no idea why). i also have over 20 bolts ive whittled down into 3 good ones for my horton through this shooting process. ive got some that look fine, but wont fly straight no matter whats on the tip, broadhead or field point.....try this, it works.


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## hoytshooter (Apr 7, 2009)

if you are shooting aluminum arrows or bolts get an arrow spinner 20 bucks and watch the head for wabbles. if it does next swap out the insert you will have to work on getting the originals out they are appoxied in. use hot melt glue to put new ones in. respin arrow if it wabbles still slightly heat and rotate insert some and align blades to vanes if you desire when you can get the arrow or bolt to spin true this will help with broadhead groups overall. I prefer the easton hot melt its a little more elsastic. the arrow squaring device from g5 helps to


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