# Restore Remington 1100



## awelker (May 16, 2012)

hi all!

I’m looking to get a Remington 1100 restored. My father in law gave it to me and it belonged to either his dad or grandfather (I forget). 

Anyways... I just want to bring the wood back into life and make sure everything checks out okay. 

Does anyone know a good place I can get this done? Cost?

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

might help if people know where bouts you live.


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## awelker (May 16, 2012)

Duh. Sorry... thought I put that lol. I’m in North Canton. Thanks!


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

Whitetail Gunsmith has done repairs for me that others could not correct. I do not know if he gets into wood refinishing.
Address: 323 N Mt Vernon Ave, Loudonville, OH 44842
Hours:
*Open* ⋅ Closes 8PM
Phone: (419) 994-4919













Phone: (419) 994-4919


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## Saugeye Tom (Oct 6, 2010)

sand paper and rem oil


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

i know you want that to be pretty but if it works good and the blueing is in good shape don't re finish . that guns history is in every scratch , well maybe up grade those o rings those always crapped out a lot. when I was re finishing friends guns it seemed like a lot of old brownings shot guns were coming in , when you strip a gun and re furb it kinda looses something, even though it turned out beautiful.


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

seems to me I read somewhere that someone used some sort of Alcohol on the wood, then rubbed linseed oil till it shined. Gonna have to dig that up. Years ago I read that... As far as re-bluing thats a subjective call... I have couple Winchesters that have none, and I absolutely love them that way.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

The Remington stock finish is a PIA to sand off. If there is bubbles in the finish you can very carefully slit with exacto knife and peel a good bit of it off. What you can't get off this way and
the checkered areas are best removed with Laquer thinner and brush. The Rem finish doesn't 
penetrate the wood like normal varnish. Some light sanding with 4/0 steel wool is all that's needed.
Avoid sanding checkering, use the thinner and a stiff brush. If you want same look use Birch Wood
Casey- Tru Oil. The more coats you apply the deeper the gloss. I wash stock with denatured alcohol
and use boiled linseed oil. You also rub this in by a series of thin coats until you get the desired
gloss. Make sure any brushes you use are natural Bristol. The Laquer thinner will act on man made
brush material. I don't know anyone up your way to blue but I do know if you take your 1100 to
a gunsmith, you are looking at a minimum of $300 for this work. If gun has rust and pits it will be
more than that. The prep work on wood and metal run the price up considerably. I would have to
see a picture of the gun to give better advice. I get good guns all the time that do need refinished.
From money standpoint you can't have them professionally refinished. Many times the job will
exceed the value of the gun. When sentimental value is attached maybe this doesn't count.


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

I personally wouldn't touch it, clean it up and make sure it's mechanically fit. You'll spend much more money refurbing it then it's worth. I do high grade re-finish with oil and both checkering and carving. I wouldn't touch a set for refinish under what your 1100 is worth. Not dissing your 1100 at all but just giving you some idea on cost.


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## cootmap2 (Nov 1, 2011)

Call Bob Barthel 330/499/4171. Close to Cleveland Ave., North and 49th St.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

If you are just getting stock refinished and all this is for sentimental purposes. You may want to
look into buying a set of wood. Look around on line. If you get some, then you can put your old
wood on line and sell. You will come out futher ahead money wise. There is a lot of Rem 1100/870
stuff floating around. Guys buying aftermarket para military & plastic stocks will give a good deal
on their wood.


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## ignantmike (Apr 30, 2005)

i just bought a wood stripper from the local hardware store.....not sure which kind it was....you just applied it and let it sit....then wipe it off....I did this a number of times....until it was mostly gone....then lightly sanded to remove stubborn area's....made sure the wood dust was removed...cheese cloth?.....then used a rag to apply linseed oil.....let dry...repeat....over and over again....until it looked how I wanted it.....NOW....I didn't re-blue the metal....I wanted it worn looking....and wanted the stock left with the ding's in it.....I just wanted the stock to have some protection from the weather....I love the look of USED gun's....hoping this will help....if you want to have all the character that some gun's have


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