# Omc 350 new heads...



## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Got a 98 omc 350 5.7 got new heads and I was fighting the rocker arms back down the book says 40 footlbs so I did.they seem really tight...when I took the old heads off the rocker arms wiggled around.is this normal?the new heads also had a valve job done.....so should they be really tight or really loose like they were..I'm stopping right here before I go any further...the manuel says the lash is set automatically if tightened to specifications....









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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Looks nice and clean vib-e.
Here is a very good vid showing the proper way to install small block Chevy heads and the sequence in which to rotate the engine for proper rocker/exhaust/intake valve adjustments.
Without rotating the eng. as seen following these steps during installation/torquing of rockers you will not get the proper clearances and will bend valves/push rods and do damage when engine turns over.

In other words, if you did not rotate your eng. adjusting in the sequence the vid showed, but instead just put all your rockers on torquing them to 40ft lbs., hopefully there are no bent push rods and it's a good thing you stopped. If that is what you did, I would loosen all rockers, remove push rods one by one checking them with a straight edge.
If they are okay, install them, re-install all rockers and nuts leaving them all loose then follow the rocker tightening steps on the vid, rotating eng torque rockers as seen.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Is there a video link to this.if so I'm not seeing it..sounds good fast water.


fastwater said:


> Looks nice and clean vib-e.
> Here is a very good vid showing the proper way to install small block Chevy heads and the sequence in which to rotate the engine for proper rocker/exhaust/intake valve adjustments.
> Without rotating the eng. as seen following these steps during installation/torquing of rockers you will not get the proper clearances and will bend valves and do damage when engine turns over.
> 
> ...


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

vib-E said:


> Is there a video link to this.if so I'm not seeing it..sounds good fast water.
> 
> Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk


Hmmm.. I apologize, thought I copied it but apparently I didn't.
Here goes:


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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

U should have some engine assembly lube on those rockers when doing the tightening sequence IMO. And go through the sequence twice.
Matt


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Good points on the assembly lube and going through tightening sequence twice Matt63. Also not a bad idea to take a bit of clean oil and pour it on the lifters as well to lube them prior to assembly. Some guys use something like STP for this as it is thick. Have actually poured transmission fluid on top of the lifters if there seemed to be a lot of carbon/gum inside motor to help clean lifters up since ATF is very high detergent.
At any rate, when done and back together, you will want to change oil/filter after you have fired engine up and brought it up to temp.

Also, the part in the vid about when you are turning the engine over by hand bringing it up to the adjusting marks and accidently going past the mark and then NOT turning the engine backwards to the mark is very important. You DO NOT want to turn the engine backwards to the marks if you pass them. If you go past the marks turn engine completely through again and come back up to marks.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Thanks guys...video helped a ton...once I get everything bolted back we shall see.

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Good luck!
Keep us posted.


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

Just saw this.. make sure you use a bead of Black silicone at the front and rear cork gaskets where they touch the head gaskets.. right at the joint. The corners of this assembly always seems to leak especially if the motor is not gasket matched. ... from an ol hotroder..


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Got it all back together..got the engine turned over and it backfires thru carb.so I stopped right there....I got what I think is tdc on #1 cylinder..I turned over by hand felt compression in that cylinder and got the marks lined up on the flywheel.so is that tdc on compression stroke?both valves r closed I'm assumingcause of the compression....so I'm assuming I'm on tdc with #1 cylinder...I proceeded to take dist cap off and the rotor is 180 off from the #1 spark plug wire...here's the pic..the red mark is where the #1 wire goes...and this us where I stopped and came in to ask here....so does this mean I have to pull the whole dist up out turn the shaft 180 then put dist back down into place?correct me if I'm completely off or a little off.lol..thanks guys.









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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Yes u are correct make sure it in that exact spot and not off by a tooth. As long as your sure it is on the compression stroke.
Matt


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

And when you get done pulling that dist.,turning it 180 and it is in proper timing, pull that crusty,burnt up rotor off throw it in the trash and get you a new one. 
I figured you would tune it up after you were done...just bustin your chops a bit.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> And when you get done pulling that dist.,turning it 180 and it is in proper timing, pull that crusty,burnt up rotor off throw it in the trash and get you a new one.
> I figured you would tune it up after you were done...just bustin your chops a bit.


Lol I got new tuneup parts coming in the mail.I couldn't wait another day or 2..I'll keep u all informed on how it goes...it was hot AF sitting down inside that bilge area working today...

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

I bet it was hot.
Hope you were in the shade and put a fan in the boat to at least moving some hot air around. 
FWIW...congrats on the huge progress you are making.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> I bet it was hot.
> Hope you were in the shade and put a fan in the boat to at least moving some hot air around.
> FWIW...congrats on the huge progress you are making.


I did have a fan but I wasn't in the shade...sun beating down in that thing...wow!!!I myswell of went to work today work outside anyway.lol.

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

vib-E said:


> I did have a fan but I wasn't in the shade...sun beating down in that thing...wow!!!I myswell of went to work today work outside anyway.lol.
> 
> Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk


Hmmm....you gotta get you one of them portable shade canopy's to keep that sun off the ole noggin. Get one of those buddies that always like to go boating with ya to come over and at least hold an umbrella over your head. Better yet,steal momma's picnic table umbrella and put it in the rear seat insert.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> Hmmm....you gotta get you one of them portable shade canopy's to keep that sun off the ole noggin. Get one of those buddies that always like to go boating with ya to come over and at least hold an umbrella over your head. Better yet,steal momma's picnic table umbrella and put it in the rear seat insert.


Lol I don't plan on doing this every weekend so I'll tough it out this time...

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Sure hope you don't have to. 
Hope the rest of the season finds you out there enjoying the fruits of your labor.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Well turned the dist now no spark....

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

U have another issue then loose wire did u Un plug the distributor when u pulled it out check the connection good and clean it.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

I'll have to check all that.it got dark out.so I stopped messing with it.


Matt63 said:


> U have another issue then loose wire did u Un plug the distributor when u pulled it out check the connection good and clean it.


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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

vib-E said:


> I'll have to check all that.it got dark out.so I stopped messing with it.
> 
> Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk


Ok. Just turning the distributor will not cause no spark. Also make sure the distributor is completely seated down with the hold down on.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

I did unhook the dist wire.and re routed it around the front...so maybe its contact is not good when I put it back on..


Matt63 said:


> Ok. Just turning the distributor will not cause no spark. Also make sure the distributor is completely seated down with the hold down on.


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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

That's probably it but the wire could break inside the insulation also check the wires good. The connector could be corroded also clean and put some dielectric grease on it.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

U got to be kidding me...went to turn engine over all I got is a click click click with the starter....turned it over by hand sounded like the gear disengaged the flywheel.so I turned it over again with the key went click click click then nothing...so end of story I turn the key and nothing happened....reel freaking nice ain't it...

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Check your battery voltage maybe battery got drained somehow


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Matt63 said:


> Check your battery voltage maybe battery got drained somehow


Its been the charger...not the battery

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

You say you turned engine by hand, it sounded like the starter gear disengaged from the flywheel? 
Is the clicking coming from the starter relay solenoid?
If I remember correctly, isnt your starter relay solenoid bolted on top of the intake and the wires to the starter relay solenoid have to be disconnected from solenoid when you remove intake? Is it possible you've put the two small starter solenoid wires on the wrong posts?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> You say you turned engine by hand, it sounded like the starter gear disengaged from the flywheel?
> Is the clicking coming from the starter relay solenoid?
> If I remember correctly, isnt your starter relay solenoid bolted on top of the intake and the wires to the starter relay solenoid have to be disconnected from solenoid when you remove intake? Is it possible you've put the two small starter solenoid wires on the wrong posts?


Wire was connected to starter by one strand of copper wire...got the starter going again...now to figure out the spark issue..I got power to one side of the coil when key is on but when I put the tester on the dist side if the coil.no readings...then again I need a 2nd person.can't turn the key and check at the same time...arms ain't 8ft long.lol

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

You can jump the starter if u know which wires. Turn the key on and jumper from battery cable at starter to the s side of the starter. There will be sparks so don't try this if there are gas fumes present. They make a button to hook to the starter for this. Or wait for a second. Look on u tube for jumping a starter. Hope this helps.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Matt63 said:


> You can jump the starter if u know which wires. Turn the key on and jumper from battery cable at starter to the s side of the starter. There will be sparks so don't try this if there are gas fumes present. They make a button to hook to the starter for this. Or wait for a second. Look on u tube for jumping a starter. Hope this helps.


Yeah.I wasn't gonna do that..I cleaned bilge out..it had a gas leak.so there's still fumes in there.

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

U should put a fan in there to clear out any fumes before doing anything else. Question have u ever done anything like this before. I've been doing this type of work for 40+ years so I hope I'm not giving any bad advice to someone that is not experienced SAFETY FIRST.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

I had a fan in there for a few days.I still don't trust it.lol.yeah I got experience..more with diesel engines though.old Detroit's.Cummins.and cat...


Matt63 said:


> U should put a fan in there to clear out any fumes before doing anything else. Question have u ever done anything like this before. I've been doing this type of work for 40+ years so I hope I'm not giving any bad advice to someone that is not experienced SAFETY FIRST.


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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Ok glad u didn’t take that as an insult.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Well boys.....she runs so good now...after I got the spark issue figured out.explain later....timed really good.not even a spit or miss...no rockers pinging..no adjustments needed made....I was surprised...but here was the spark issue..I feel dumb but I'll tell ya anyway...the bolt that holds the wires on to the dist was loose and rusted...(in the circle) and the arrow is to that little thin piece of strap that wraps around and goes on that bolt was not even attached...after figuring out the coil wasn't the issue I went to the dist that was the last thing in line...so here it is..runs like a champ now...all new tune up parts.plugs cap rotor points...by the way the pic is not the new parts..I didn't take a pic of the new parts.I just used a old pic I took previously and drawed on it...just in case I get bashed for not putting new tune-up parts in..lol.thanks all for the help.

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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

^^^You da man!!!
Glad to hear.
FWIW,your pic is not showing up.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> ^^^You da man!!!
> Glad to hear.
> FWIW,your pic is not showing up.


Here.lol









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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Congrats job well done. In the future you can replace those points with electronic ignition. Hope this weather changes so you can get some use out of it.
Matt


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Matt63 said:


> Congrats job well done. In the future you can replace those points with electronic ignition. Hope this weather changes so you can get some use out of it.
> Matt


Is that a hard thing to do?replace with electronic ignition......if the the weather don't change I'll just undo it from the trailer and run it around in the flood.lol.

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Pretty simple hard part is deciding which one to buy. I have an 84 sport craft and mine was already done when I bought it but I can't remember what brand it is. Check u tube for some videos.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Matt63 said:


> Pretty simple hard part is deciding which one to buy. I have an 84 sport craft and mine was already done when I bought it but I can't remember what brand it is. Check u tube for some videos.


Is there one better then the other or something?

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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Well got the boat in the water..started fine idle fine...put into gear fine.as it was tied to dock...untied it.went to go.and it died..tried restarting it wouldn't...it wanted to start but didn't...it did this before I noticed the head gasket leaking...I do believe its nothing I did wrong...seems as it gets warm it cuts out.intrruopt switch is new...new plugs wire.points cap rotor...acts like a fuel issue..choke is open.anti syphon valve is clear and working...I'm assuming fuel pump or coil?????when it starts cold it purrs like a kitten......

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## G.lock (Apr 1, 2014)

Not a boat mech, but years as a hotroder. Sounds like the coil is opening up when it gets hot.
Once had a friend put his coil in a can of water to keep it running long enough to get home.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

It was the coil

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

Glad u got it figured out


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## floater99 (May 21, 2010)

Nice job being persistent and figuring it out makes you feel good when it all finally works out


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

kudos for working thru it nice


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Not so easy......took the boat out drove around the lake for about an hour.came back in to dock.slowed to and idle at the no wake zone..and engine dies...wouldn't restart....now wtf...new coil.new fuel pump.new points.ext ect..eventually got it started.but then when I shifted from n to fwd the motor would die

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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Sounds like your shift interrupter switch could be causing the engine to die (if the shift cable isn't properly adjusted). You can disconnect the switch prior to dropping the engine in gear & see if your engine will stay running. Keep in mind that the S/I switch has to function properly to shift from F/R into neutral. Mike


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Also, since you're working on an OMC keep in mind there are probably 2 interrupter switches & a sealed shift assist module. A Mercruiser has a single switch & no module.


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## s.a.m (Feb 22, 2016)

What's your idle set at with engine warm?
Have you double checked your valve lash warm?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

s.a.m said:


> What's your idle set at with engine warm?
> Have you double checked your valve lash warm?


I haven't messed with it yet..all I know is it ran fine cruising coming into dock.backed it down to idle and it died...won't restart.tries fireing on starting fluid but without it it just cranks...a carb issue?

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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

When it dies like that I'd also check to see if the acceilerator pump is giving a good squirt of fuel. That will let you know a couple of things....1- that the carb bowl has some fuel left in it & 2- that the accellerator pump is pushing some fuel when the throttle plates are open up. If you have some form of a fuel starvation issue going on you'll have to investigate further (fuel pressure, float level, needle/seat, etc. ) Mike


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## s.a.m (Feb 22, 2016)

What firemanmike said!, Make sure the distributor is tight also.


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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

I had this same issue with mine a couple years ago and found the election ignition pickup had a crack in it. But u said u still have points correct? Have you checked under the cap and inspected.the points.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Yep...as usual firemanmike is spot on.
Also, if it is in fact fuel related, when was the last time all fuel filters and water separator were serviced/changed? Then there's the fuel line, gas tank vent and gas itself. Is the fuel line soft and collapsing or coming apart on the inside? Is the gas tank vent clear? Is the gas old or have water in it?


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

All new points rotor cap wires plugs.new fuel pump.all filters.hoses r new...checked anti syphon valve...clear...its new gas.full tank...old was pumped out cpl months ago...but I will check into what mike has to say...thanks

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## s.a.m (Feb 22, 2016)

Your valve lash could be to tight, that might actually make it do that.


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## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

In regards to the valve lash....did you set the adjustment 'cold' prior to initially firing the motor (after reinstalling the cylinder heads) ? Mike


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Yes I put the heads on.did the sequence of the rockers.then ran it...doesn't explain why it fires on starting flued and not gas...unless tight rockers run better on starting fluid then gas.lol


firemanmike2127 said:


> In regards to the valve lash....did you set the adjustment 'cold' prior to initially firing the motor (after reinstalling the cylinder heads) ? Mike


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

vib-E said:


> Yes I put the heads on.did the sequence of the rockers.then ran it...doesn't explain why it fires on starting flued and not gas...unless tight rockers run better on starting fluid then gas.lol.also is it possible to get tighter as u run the engine?
> 
> Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk




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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

If it will run on starting fluid...like Mike said, you either have a fuel delivery problem or carburetor issue.
Is it a mechanical or electric fuel pump?
Have you tried lightly tapping on the carb to see if the float may be sticking?
Taking the fuel line loose at the carb., attaching a clear hose to the fuel line and running that line into a bucket, then either turning key on(for electric fuel pump) or turning engine over(for mechanical pump) you should get a good stream of fuel. If not, then obviously your issue is prior to the carb. 
There are fuel pressure gauges that you can install to tell you fuel pressure as well. 
If you have a good steady stream of gas, I would be checking into the carb.


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

fastwater said:


> If it will run on starting fluid...like Mike said, you either have a fuel delivery problem or carburetor issue.
> Is it a mechanical or electric fuel pump?
> Have you tried lightly tapping on the carb to see if the float may be sticking?
> Taking the fuel line loose at the carb., attaching a clear hose to the fuel line and running that line into a bucket, then either turning key on(for electric fuel pump) or turning engine over(for mechanical pump) you should get a good stream of fuel. If not, then obviously your issue is prior to the carb.
> ...


New mechanical fuel pump.good stream of fuel coming out of fuel line that goes into carb...so like u and mike said.I'll check the carb.no I didn't try tapping the carb.but a good thought before I take it off and try.

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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

I know u said u got a new coil but have u checked the spark. I've had brand new parts be bad before. Just make sure u check the basics first.
Matt


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## vib-E (Jun 21, 2015)

Matt63 said:


> I know u said u got a new coil but have u checked the spark. I've had brand new parts be bad before. Just make sure u check the basics first.
> Matt


Yes sir
Checked the spark...just for info
Its a Rochester quadrajet carb.









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## Matt63 (Jun 1, 2016)

See that green arm I believe that is hooked to the accelerator pump mike refered to



vib-E said:


> Yes sir
> Checked the spark...just for info
> Its a Rochester quadrajet carb.
> 
> ...


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

vib-E said:


> Yes sir
> Checked the spark...just for info
> Its a Rochester quadrajet carb.
> 
> ...


Double check and make sure ALL your vacuum lines that have anything to do with the Quadrajet are plugged in where they're supposed to be plugged in and have NO leaks.
Just for giggles I would pull a couple spark plugs to see if they're washed down.


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