# Knife sharpening basics ?



## boss302 (Jun 24, 2005)

I have a lanskey sharpening kit, 5 stones extra course to extra fine, but it's been years since I've used it. Did a couple pocket knives this evening but unsure of what angle I should use. It has 17, 20, 25, and 30. How do you know what to angle use? Pocket knives, kitchen knives, fillet knives?.......


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## cb55 (Jan 4, 2014)

The steeper the angle the sharper the knife will be but it will also lose its edge faster


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Ive got the Lansky as well.

I do my single bladed work pocket knives at 25. If the knife has multiple blades, the work blade gets 25 while the smaller, less used blades gets a 20.

Kitchen knives get 20.

All the fillet knives get 17.


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## Flathead76 (May 2, 2010)

Have both a diamond and Arkansas sone set of Lanskies. The diamond is hands down my favorite. The shape is always dead flat. With the stones over time you will get a bevel in the face of the stone. All my knives I like to relieve the edge first with the 17 to get the material out of the way. Then hit it with a 20 or 25 degree to put a thin edge on them. It makes resharpening faster.


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## ebijack (Mar 31, 2013)

If you have not changed the original angle. Put a black marker along a short section of the edge. 1 or 2 light swipes with your Lansky and check the mark. You should be able to see if you are high of the edge, or close to the same angle. Most blades are factory sharpened for the general purpose of that said blade. I don't always stick with the original angle. Depends on the knife and use.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

https://lansky.com/index.php/blog/which-angle-should-i-use-when-sharpening-my-knife/#.WIIY2lMrJtQ

Straight from the horses mouth...


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

The secret to a sharp knife is to never let it get dull. I have a lansky hand sharpener that I make a few passes with to maintain the edge. Makes a huge difference.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Multi-Angle-QuadSharp-P686C57.aspx


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

capt j-rod said:


> The secret to a sharp knife is to never let it get dull. I have a lansky hand sharpener that I make a few passes with to maintain the edge. Makes a huge difference.
> https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Multi-Angle-QuadSharp-P686C57.aspx


Absolutely capt.
I've been gifted a few knives from people that claim they just can't get on edge on the knife. I have two very old butcher knives that when I got them, there just simply wasn't an edge on them at all. You could tell they had tried to be sharpened but just no edge. It literally took steps from ground up using a file to belt sander to hone to leather to get the proper angle and edge on these knives.
But once that edge was established and keeping them touched up, that edge just stays there with very little effort. Too many times we use knives without touching them up in between uses and then it becomes work to regain the edge.


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

I have a grinder. Good enough


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## hatteras1 (Jan 18, 2011)

I also have the Lansky with the 5 stone. I love it as my friends are always bringing me their broken or dull knives (used as a can opener). The lansky is awesome but when you flip it over, you have to be exact in the position or you can chase your tail. I've redesigned mine and it's so much faster. I use the 30 on every knife because crock sticks are perfect for maintaining. 4 passes across the 30 degree sticks once or twice a month keeps them razor sharp. (very simple to use and around 10 bucks for a decent set of sticks)Lansky now makes the sticks 20 and 25 degree too, course and fine. If you maintain them, fine is all you need.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

I like my Work Sharp and my silicone carbide tube recovered from a graphite heat exchanger.


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

Shortdrift said:


> I like my Work Sharp and my silicone carbide tube recovered from a graphite heat exchanger.


so you recovered a part from a nuclear power plant...


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Buy a cheap strop and some compound. Rarely if ever will you need to use a sharpener again.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Flathead76 said:


> Have both a diamond and Arkansas sone set of Lanskies. The diamond is hands down my favorite. The shape is always dead flat. With the stones over time you will get a bevel in the face of the stone. All my knives I like to relieve the edge first with the 17 to get the material out of the way. Then hit it with a 20 or 25 degree to put a thin edge on them. It makes resharpening faster.


Sounds like a "beveled" edge, which I have heard, and read, is the best kind of edge. 



capt j-rod said:


> The secret to a sharp knife is to never let it get dull. I have a lansky hand sharpener that I make a few passes with to maintain the edge. Makes a huge difference.
> https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Multi-Angle-QuadSharp-P686C57.aspx


Good point. I have a 40+ year old Schrade Uncle Henry fillet knife that has never been allowed to get anywhere near dull. After 2-3 fish the blade is rinsed, wiped off, and after a few passes through the sticks of my "Edgemaker Pro", and is razor sharp once again. 

But occasionally, some help is needed. I had a bunch of knives that I got as "premiums" for shopping at a local supermarket. One of them is the best kitchen knife I have ever owned! The blade is labeled "Precision Hollow Ground, Fine Stainless Steel". It's a piece of cake to keep an edge on it. 

Some of the other knives were labeled "Stainless High Carbon Steel", and I can tell you those blades were hard! I used to be a wizard with the flat stones, but seem to have lost the knack. No matter what I tried, I couldn't put an edge on those blades. 

So, I hit on an idea and took those blades to a local grinding company. One of the services they offer is knife sharpening for local restaurant, butcher shops, and meat cutters. Told the guy I couldn't raise an edge on those blades, and that's what I needed him to do. He told me I'd have no problem with an edge after that, and I haven't! Butchered a whole deer last year, and those knives are as sharp as when I started. 

For $2.25 a blade, it was money well spent!


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## Dovans (Nov 15, 2011)

My dad was meat cutter for Fazio's in Cleveland. He always had fisherman and hunters asking to sharpen their knives. He also had many fishermen begging for the meat dept. knives that couldnt be sharpen any more. (too thin) but they made great filet knives.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Dovans said:


> He also had many fishermen begging for the meat dept. knives that couldnt be sharpen any more. (too thin) but they made great filet knives.


Yeah, the place I went had a lot of those. The guy said they sold a ton of them to fishermen. I don't doubt it. $3 to$4 for a filet knife with good steel in the blade? They also had plastic blade covers. Not actually a sheath, just a cover for the blade while the knife is in a drawer. I asked how much they were, and the guy said they were free! Take as many as I wanted! Nice.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Dovans said:


> He also had many fishermen begging for the meat dept. knives that couldnt be sharpen any more. (too thin) but they made great filet knives.


Yeah, the place I went had a lot of those. The guy said they sold a ton of them to fishermen. I don't doubt it. $3 to$4 for a filet knife with good steel in the blade? They also had plastic blade covers. Not actually a sheath, just a cover for the blade while the knife is in a drawer. I asked how much they were, and the guy said they were free! Take as many as I wanted! Nice.


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## beaver (Sep 28, 2010)

Where is that local grinding company? Sounds like I need to pay them a visit. 

I used to buy those leftover knives from butcher places for next to nothing for coyote and **** skinning.


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## Pooch (Jun 16, 2014)

BB,
Are you referring to Youngstown Grinding. If so I learned long ago when you pick up your knives from them don't touch the edge with your finger, instant blood loss. Can't beat them for fixing up your knives every couple of years.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

beaver said:


> Where is that local grinding company? Sounds like I need to pay them a visit.
> 
> I used to buy those leftover knives from butcher places for next to nothing for coyote and **** skinning.





Pooch said:


> BB,
> Are you referring to Youngstown Grinding. If so I learned long ago when you pick up your knives from them don't touch the edge with your finger, instant blood loss. Can't beat them for fixing up your knives every couple of years.


That's exactly who I'm talking about! I think they're called Youngstown Restaurant Supply now. They have everything. Grinders, slicers, stainless tables, etc. The guy I dealt with was very nice, even though I had to be "small potatoes" in the overall scheme of things. And they did a wonderful job on my knives.


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## beaver (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought one of the knife works belt sharpening systems from cabelas on sale yesterday. Anyone use these? 

I tested it out on a kitchen knife that I didn't really care about. It definitely got it sharp again, but I messed the edge line up a bit. I think I'll practice on a few more junkers before I risk it on my fillet knives and old hickory blades that were passed down.


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## Saugeyefisher (Jul 19, 2010)

Hmmm gonna look into getting some stuff ansharpening my own knifes.
I've been taking mine to the butcher at my local Kroger he always does me good.


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## Ripley (May 10, 2010)

i have a worksharp, just the regular one not the ken onion edition. the book and the video is not as detailed. i went on youtube and there is a guy doug holser that does videos for worksharp. he has alot more info and tips that have taught me more than the the info sent in the package. i also watched alot of others. i love the thing and have used to for more than sharpening knives.

i mounted a new scope on my shotgun for deer season. i had to grind on my rail so that i could get the scope into place. a bench grinder took out the bulk and the worksharp using all 3 belts smoothed it out and made it pretty, shot with a couple of coats of matte black and it looked like i bought that way. it comes in handy for other things besides knives.


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## beaver (Sep 28, 2010)

That's the same one I bought. The only issue I'm having is figuring out where to stop my swipe at. I'm having some rounding of the tip issues. I'm still practicing on knives that I don't really care about though. I'll check those videos out. Thanks.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Ripley said:


> i have a worksharp, just the regular one not the ken onion edition. the book and the video is not as detailed. i went on youtube and there is a guy doug holser that does videos for worksharp. he has alot more info and tips that have taught me more than the the info sent in the package. i also watched alot of others. i love the thing and have used to for more than sharpening knives.
> 
> i mounted a new scope on my shotgun for deer season. i had to grind on my rail so that i could get the scope into place. a bench grinder took out the bulk and the worksharp using all 3 belts smoothed it out and made it pretty, shot with a couple of coats of matte black and it looked like i bought that way. it comes in handy for other things besides knives.





beaver said:


> That's the same one I bought. The only issue I'm having is figuring out where to stop my swipe at. I'm having some rounding of the tip issues. I'm still practicing on knives that I don't really care about though. I'll check those videos out. Thanks.


Have been considering a work sharp as well. Mostly for kitchen knives that get abused and used in ways that dull them in which they shouldn't be used. Drives me crazy to grab a knife that won't cut hot butter. Guess it's just a pet peeve of mine...to the point that most of the knives I use for things from butchering game, fish cleaning, carving a turkey/roast or my daily carry pocket knife are not left out for general use. I've even got a bad habit of getting a bit of a queasy feeling when someone asks to borrow my pocket knife. 
Guess I'd be considered a 'knife edge' snob.


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## beaver (Sep 28, 2010)

fastwater said:


> Have been considering a work sharp as well. Mostly for kitchen knives that get abused and used in ways that dull them in which they shouldn't be used. Drives me crazy to grab a knife that won't cut hot butter. Guess it's just a pet peeve of mine...to the point that most of the knives I use for things from butchering game, fish cleaning, carving a turkey/roast or my daily carry pocket knife are not left out for general use. I've even got a bad habit of getting a bit of a queasy feeling when someone asks to borrow my pocket knife.
> Guess I'd be considered a 'knife edge' snob.


That's the exact reason I bought this. Im the same way with my knives. Everyone in the house knows not to touch "daddy's good knives" lol


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

beaver said:


> That's the exact reason I bought this. Im the same way with my knives. Everyone in the house knows not to touch "daddy's good knives" lol


I think my phobia's on the subject are inherited. Dad was the same way. Even to the point in which he usually carried two pocket knives. One he would lend and one he wouldn't. If he didn't have his loaner in his pocket and someone asked to borrow a knife he would just tell em he didn't have one...unless of course he knew the person and knew they had enough brains not to use it as a screwdriver a hammer or abuse it. Lol!


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Cajunsaugeye said:


> Buy a cheap strop and some compound. Rarely if ever will you need to use a sharpener again.


I made my own strop out of two 5 gallon paint sticks that I glued together. After the glue dries pull out the belt sander and soften the edges. Get some leather and I use contact cement to attach it. Go to Lowes and buy some green chromium oxide compound. Heat both the leather and the oxide with a hot hair dryer and then "charge" the strop. 
I rarely use a stone to sharpen. Like many have said, don't allow the blade to get dull. Come home and strop your knife about a dozen passes. Done.
When your strop turns black from steel, clean it with cheap lanolin hand cleaner. Rinse, dry overnight and recharge.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

I am in the same boat and share the same opinnion as #25 and #26.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Growing up as a young hillbilly in WV, Dad taught me how to sharpen knives on the old whet rock. We'll, wet with oil. There was 2 edges we would use, one was what Dad called a working edge. Not very acute. This was the one you used for cutting up cardboard boxes or most any task. It lasted the longest. The other was the, shave hair off your arm and imprest your friends and coworkers. It didn't last long at all. We put that on one blade of the stockman. Imagine sharpening a pencil to a fine point vs one that is not so pointy. Which point or edge do you think will last longer? You bear down on the one that shaves hair and before no time at all, it's dull.


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## hatteras1 (Jan 18, 2011)

My friend was cooking and she was chopping with one of my ceramic knives. 
It looked like a crosscut saw.


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## Ripley (May 10, 2010)

The work shop puts a convex edge on knives. I found that some of the knives I sharpened took awhile. I finally realized it was because I was changing the edge profile. With the many grits you can get. The edge of the blades can be very sharp. The metal the knife is made from and how it's hardened is one thing that determines how long the edge is going to last. Now if you also sharpen to a wires edge that so sharp it crazy can also cause the edge to dull. To far sharp of and edge will allow the edge to roll during the cut. Worksharp has also got diamond belts for sharpening ceramic blades. I really enjoy mine and it is so easy to keep a knife sharp. I do have a titanium coated pocket knife that I can't seem to get sharp. it's a cheapy. I like it cause it's a folder that the handle is skeletonized. You can see the blade through the handle. I've never seen one like it. It was the only one left in the box by the cash register. I have found it online but don't want to go through the hassle of ordering from China and buying bulk.

Anyway... I got my Worksharp from the half hour infomercial on tv it was on one of the outdoor channels. So I got the whole kit for $100 bucks. I also went to Cabela's and other places to shop around, and the tv informercial was the best deal.

I also had to call the company to order a new outdoor guide. I had the box on the floor and the dog pulled it out of the box and chewed it up. While talking with the lady there she asked what happened. I told her, and she laughed and send we will send you out another one for no charge. She said I understand what having a dog is like. I got the new one in the mail within 2 weeks. So a very good customer service dept. At least with my first experience.


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## bajuski (Apr 9, 2004)

I bought a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander not only because I'm cheap ($40) but because it seemed the most practical for my use...I already used it to sharpen my chipper/shreader blades, lawn mower blades, knives, scissors, chisels, tin snips etc etc with very good results....It's a little loud and the table is useless but I lay it horizontally and can control the angle I want easily. Belts are cheap too ....Also, it took a while to master the technique with a strop, but I have it now. Just wish I would have bought one long ago!


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

bajuski said:


> I bought a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander not only because I'm cheap but because it seemed the most practical for my use...I already used it to sharpen my chipper/shreader blades, lawn mower blades, knives, scissors, chisels, tin snips etc etc with very good results....It's a little loud and the table is useless but I lay it horizontally and can control the angle I want easily. Belts are cheap too ....Also, it took a while to master the technique with a strop, but I have it now. Just wish I would have bought one long ago!


These are very handy but I suggest using cheap knives to "hone" your technique. 
You can screw up a good knife in a hurry. I bet there's a plethora of videos on UT. Don't forget to have a cup of water handy. (To cool the blade)


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Excellent point lazy!
When sharpening anything, heat is all to often the enemy of the steel.


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## PromiseKeeper (Apr 14, 2004)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the point of a strop or steel to straighten up the edge of a blade that is actually curled over one way or the other? "Touching it up" doesn't put a new edge on but "corrects" the one already there. I had a meat cutting instructor explain that to me once and it seems to work and make sense.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

^^^I believe you are spot on in your assessment PK.
Always been my thought that the final process's of using a steel, then a strop was to further take off the rough marks that were caused by honing/stoning an already existing edge to make the blade glide more smoothly through something when cutting. In short, the steel/strop isn't used to form the edge/bevel...just further smooth the grinding marks.


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

I make knives for a hobby and i'm quite surprised at how many of you guys know the basics.
First off, i don't agree with lanskey's sharpening guide, although they are a great tool once one learns to use it. Ok for newbies, but not you guys, the only thing i sharpen at 30* are axes, hatchets and lawn mower blades.
Second, S.S. will *NEVER *hold an edge like high carbon (unless one gets into the new magnetic stainless at great cost.) I also, at times, use a Ken Onion work sharp. The trick to the work sharp is to release the trigger a inch or two from the tip, but continue to pull the blade through. This will allow the tip to be sharpened with out heating up the blade and ruining the temper. Once one ruins the temper, the knife is worthless. Water is your friend.

Any heavy bladed knife (5/32's or greater) should be initially ground with a hollow grind. This allows the thick EDGE to be ground thinner, thus allowing a sharper edge, while maintaining the rest of the blade thicker to absorb more abuse.

Lastly, don't use the ceramic sticks AFTER you you belt sharpen. They'll only lay your curl down flatter, too fine to remove the curl properly. I use a piece locus wood and pull the blade gentley across the grain once or twice to remove the curl. Trust me, it works great!.

P.S. if one can afford it, i recommend a Damascas blade for any fillet or hunting knife. In my experience, they will hold an edge longer than the magnetic stainless.
And i'm talking true, 100% American made Damascas, not the Pakistani garbage they sell on E-bay and Amazon.

Sorry for the long post, but you fellas are a-ok in my book and i hate to see you (some of you) beat'n yourselves up over sharpening a knife.


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## MIGHTY (Sep 21, 2013)

Just got on break at work. One other guy and I spend a few hours taking the shank bone out of 200-250 hams or so while the others skinned about 700. I work with some pretty good knife guys that have been in the meat industry for 30+ years. Had one or 2 show me their method on a wet stone and practiced for quite a while. Wet stone and rub it on the steel. Bone out 2-3 hams and hit the steel again really quick. Bad thing about my knives is that I tend to thin out the blades an awful lot. I don’t hit the bone just right and go through it I can make some pretty gnarly knicks in my edge......


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## clevjim (Oct 31, 2011)

FYI....the Case Knife factory rep for the 2018 Generation XX Tour will be at Lehman's in Kidron on Nov. 17th, 9:00a.m. - 12 p.m. Event will include auction, giveaways, door prizes, etc. Providing for info...not connected in anyway with Case or Lehman's ...but I have a Case knife and shopped at Lehman's...


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

$diesel$ said:


> I make knives for a hobby and i'm quite surprised at how many of you guys know the basics.
> First off, i don't agree with lanskey's sharpening guide, although they are a great tool once one learns to use it. Ok for newbies, but not you guys, the only thing i sharpen at 30* are axes, hatchets and lawn mower blades.
> Second, S.S. will *NEVER *hold an edge like high carbon (unless one gets into the new magnetic stainless at great cost.) I also, at times, use a Ken Onion work sharp. The trick to the work sharp is to release the trigger a inch or two from the tip, but continue to pull the blade through. This will allow the tip to be sharpened with out heating up the blade and ruining the temper. Once one ruins the temper, the knife is worthless. Water is your friend.
> 
> ...


You go wit yo bad self $diesel$!
Tell em what you know good.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

$diesel$ said:


> I make knives for a hobby and i'm quite surprised at how many of you guys know the basics.
> First off, i don't agree with lanskey's sharpening guide, although they are a great tool once one learns to use it. Ok for newbies, but not you guys, the only thing i sharpen at 30* are axes, hatchets and lawn mower blades.
> Second, S.S. will *NEVER *hold an edge like high carbon (unless one gets into the new magnetic stainless at great cost.) I also, at times, use a Ken Onion work sharp. The trick to the work sharp is to release the trigger a inch or two from the tip, but continue to pull the blade through. This will allow the tip to be sharpened with out heating up the blade and ruining the temper. Once one ruins the temper, the knife is worthless. Water is your friend.
> 
> ...


Right on brother. You know, I was as happy as a pig in mud, carrying my Uncle Henry or Tree Brand stockman...until I found Bladeforums. I now have knives in BG 42, S30V, 3V, ATS 34, and A2. BUT...I wouldn't take anything in the world for my knives made out of high carbon steel. Diesel's right, carbon steel takes an edge and holds it longer. But the big thing I like is a carbon blade will show it's age via a patina. I love a good patina.
[url=https://postimg.cc/0bDKKsyy][/URL]


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

So true, Lazy, nothing looks as good as a well patina'd blade.
And the greater the patina, the more rust resistent the blade is.


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## PromiseKeeper (Apr 14, 2004)

It's hard to explain but there's just something about a knife or gun that has acquired patina, wear, or even a scratch or two because its spent so much time in your hands. It kind of becomes like an old trusted friend that has shared many experiences with you. It all tells a story.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

I agree PK, I think it gives the tool...character. 
I show a LOT of patina. Some might say I AM a character. There's quite a few of us characters around here!


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## bajuski (Apr 9, 2004)

PromiseKeeper said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the point of a strop or steel to straighten up the edge of a blade that is actually curled over one way or the other? "Touching it up" doesn't put a new edge on but "corrects" the one already there. I had a meat cutting instructor explain that to me once and it seems to work and make sense.



Agree, after sharpening with with even a fine abrasive belt there are still slight burrs left on the knife edge. I use a strop with rouge to remove these otherwise they'll wind up in your food. I'm still new at this and when first using the strop I was actually dulling the blade with the strop by applying too much pressure and holding too much angle. I'm getting better though and there's no fear of me ruining my wife's quality knives, I don't think K mart carries high end stuff!


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## PromiseKeeper (Apr 14, 2004)

an old barber strop would be great. wonder if one of the amish leather places makes them?


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Some of the knife nuts on Bladeforums sharpen their knives to what I call the umpteenth degree. A lot use the Japanese waterstones. When the go to their stops, a lot use diamond paste instead of an abrasive compound. Whatever technique they use, a lot swear by bare horsehide as the final. I've never felt the need to go to these extremes. I personally think a guy can over-sharpen a knife. I liken it to sharpening a pencil too sharp. What happens when you bear down on that pencil?


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## ress (Jan 1, 2008)

I've got my dads knife that has been sharpened so many times that the edge is what I call tattered. Do I need to have a expert make a new edge? I don't do much serious sharping.


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## bajuski (Apr 9, 2004)

ress said:


> I've got my dads knife that has been sharpened so many times that the edge is what I call tattered. Do I need to have a expert make a new edge? I don't do much serious sharping.


If it has sentimental value to you then I would say yes, have it professionally sharpened. Something like that I would not chance!


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

delete


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Heres one i started today for a friend. It's just roughed in and will take a few or more weeks working at my pace. If i was any slower, i'd stop.


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## moondog5814 (Apr 8, 2007)

Lazy 8 said:


> Growing up as a young hillbilly in WV, Dad taught me how to sharpen knives on the old whet rock. We'll, wet with oil. There was 2 edges we would use, one was what Dad called a working edge. Not very acute. This was the one you used for cutting up cardboard boxes or most any task. It lasted the longest. The other was the, shave hair off your arm and imprest your friends and coworkers. It didn't last long at all. We put that on one blade of the stockman. Imagine sharpening a pencil to a fine point vs one that is not so pointy. Which point or edge do you think will last longer? You bear down on the one that shaves hair and before no time at all, it's dull.


I grew up in WV too. My Pap would always be sharpening knives and he got a real kick out of shaving my arms. I miss those days. I could never sharpen knives like him though.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

moondog5814 said:


> I grew up in WV too. My Pap would always be sharpening knives and he got a real kick out of shaving my arms. I miss those days. I could never sharpen knives like him though.


Yea, I miss my Dad also but don't underestimate yourself. Maybe all you need is practice? Stay after it.
Here's something to practice on. Plus the wifey can't get upset for screwing up her good kitchen knives. 
She might just adopt them when you're done.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/7...+&+Tools+-+Kitchen+Cutlery&utm_content=759134


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## bajuski (Apr 9, 2004)

$diesel$ said:


> Heres one i started today for a friend. It's just roughed in and will take a few or more weeks working at my pace. If i was any slower, i'd stop.


That's awesome diesel, any chance of pics of your progress? It's obvious that you're much more advanced than most of us!


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Thank you, bajuski, just i've been doing it for a while. Anyone can, really.
Yes i will post some pics as i go, but i'm always working on 3 or 4 atta time so it will be a while.
Truthfully, i learned to do this by watching youtube videos, believe it or not.
It's a great way to eat up some time during the winter months. I just can't take the darn cold any more.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

$diesel$ said:


> Thank you, bajuski, just i've been doing it for a while. Anyone can, really.
> Yes i will post some pics as i go, but i'm always working on 3 or 4 atta time so it will be a while.
> Truthfully, i learned to do this by watching youtube videos, believe it or not.
> It's a great way to eat up some time during the winter months. I just can't take the darn cold any more.


Diesel - Looking good brother, do you do stock removal or forging?


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

ress said:


> I've got my dads knife that has been sharpened so many times that the edge is what I call tattered. Do I need to have a expert make a new edge? I don't do much serious sharping.


The edge needs to be reprofiled. If and when you take it somewhere, make sure you and the blade Smith are on the same page. You don't want him putting some kind of an edge on there that you can't maintain. Relay to him what your method of sharpening is. 
Look for a local knife shop. If you have an OLD, established hardware store, they may know a guy.


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## ress (Jan 1, 2008)

There is ace hardware store that sharpens mower blades and fixes screens. I'll ask them. I think a guy works a couple days a week and does that for ace. The knife works well but after 2 or 3 perch needs sharpened again.























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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

It shouldn't dull out that fast,Ress. Chicago Cutlery is pretty good stuff. Someone must have over heated that blade and softened it up.
I would think you should pick up another one.

Or like Lazy says, reprofile it. That includes grinding your current edge flat and taking it higher into thicker steel. I'm just not sure you have enough blade left to do that.


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Lazy 8 said:


> Diesel - Looking good brother, do you do stock removal or forging?


This one is stock removal, Lazy8. I just picked up a forge and anvil here a few months back. I also found a power hammer and i'm looking for a log splitter (at least 27 ton) to turn into a press. I'm too old brother to swing that hammer all day. As soon as i can get a press, i'll start making all my own. I want to create 75% good Damascas blades.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

$diesel$ said:


> This one is stock removal, Lazy8. I just picked up a forge and anvil here a few months back. I also found a power hammer and i'm looking for a log splitter (at least 27 ton) to turn into a press. I'm too old brother to swing that hammer all day. As soon as i can get a press, i'll start making all my own. I want to create 75% good Damascas blades.


You're following my dream brother. I don't have the time in my life right now, but one of the days when I retire I'll be following in your footsteps. 
I have no plans of selling anything. I just want to make friends happy. 
I know a guy up in the Lake St Mary's area who forges. His style is rustic and no two knives of the same size are the same. He makes them and then advertises on his facebook for sale. I like that rustic look. He also makes his own sheaths out of deer and elk hide with real sinew that he processes.


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## $diesel$ (Aug 3, 2018)

Thats what i do too. I don't make any thing on these except me happy.
I make my own sheaths as well. I use veg tanned leather or Kydex.

Here are 3 i made for the same guy. Just wanted to show you the Kydex. This is the first one i ever made and i need alot more practice.


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