# Mono or Fluoro for deep crankin'?



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Finally found a suitable reel and a price I was willing to pay to pair with a designated deep diving crank bait rod I've had lying around. Grabbed a Lew's BB1 Pro (PS1) and mounted it on a 7'8" Fenwick Lunker Stick semi-glass rod (LST78MH-MFC). This combo will be used almost exclusively for chucking large plugs like 5 and 6XD and DT14s and 16s. 

Most of the "dive to" crank baits are tank tested on 10 lb test nylon monofilament. Is there any reason to deviate from this basic line type? Would braid or fluoro make more sense? And should I increase or decrease the lb test? If it helps in recommending a line, I don't imagine crashing cranks off timber, etc. I already have a medium to shallow cranking setup for that. I envision this combo being used to get down to deeper structure instead.


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

I use 14lb Seaguar Red Label fluorocarbon. Make sure you wet your knots before pulling them tight with any fluorocarbon.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Anyone else go heavier than ten pound?


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Just about everything I read on this topic stresses going with thinner line for maximum depth. The thinner the line diameter the deeper the plug will dive since the lure will have less drag when it pulls the line through the water. Under this logic wouldn't braid be the clear winner? Are there any drawbacks to braid for deep crankin'?

Also, is the added expense of fluorocarbon worth it? I use FC as a leader material for finesse setups pitching jigs in ultra-clear streams. However, considering this setup is expected to be exclusively for relatively fast moving lures, is the invisibility necessary, or would one be better served by a limp nylon monofilament in order to save a few bucks?


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## ristorap (Mar 6, 2013)

Braid will let it dive deeper. You can go with heaver line because of small diameter. You will feel it hitting bottom and objects better. Can straighten out hooks and pull cranks out of snags easier.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

^do you use a fluorocarbon leader or is it not necessary with a relatively swift moving presentation like cranks?


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Stumbled upon this and they recommend FC:

http://www.bassfishin.com/blog/fishing-line-guide/


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## HamiltonKdog (Oct 15, 2014)

Personnaly, I would go with braid. a 20 or 30 pound braid fives you a lot of strength for getting off of snags and loosing cranks is not fun. Fluoro leaders are optional but may be needed if fish are finicky


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

I almost always crank with 12lb flouro. Alot of fairly clear lakes around me i take every advantage possible. Ive cranked with braid and just didnt care for it. Remember dont cheap out on line its what connects you to the fish. Second to sharp hooks i would say quality line is the most important


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks everyone. Grabbed a roll of 10 lb Seaguar red label for this purpose.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Thinking of switching to braid for the deep cranking setup. Lost a lucky craft LV-500 the other night. Not only are they costly lures but they are not widely available.


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## ristorap (Mar 6, 2013)

RiparianRanger said:


> Thinking of switching to braid for the deep cranking setup. Lost a lucky craft LV-500 the other night. Not only are they costly lures but they are not widely available.


Check out nano and the new berkley fireline . It is like nano and fireline as one. Berkley and suffix has nano. I am using the suffex nano I like it a lot have no problems with it, can feel 1/8 oz jigs hit rocks on the bottom .


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

ristorap said:


> Check out nano and the new berkley fireline . It is like nano and fireline as one. Berkley and suffix has nano. I am using the suffex nano I like it a lot have no problems with it, can feel 1/8 oz jigs hit rocks on the bottom .


How is it from a strength perspective? I was ripping a lipless through heavy grass and the line snapped. Was shocked the line failed but it's a costly failure I want to avoid.


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## chrisrf815 (Jul 6, 2014)

Florocarbon line sinks, while braided line floats. Therefore florocarbon is prefered for deep crainking. Thats what ive always heard and read and follow. Long glass rods for long casts with florocarbon line for deep cranking.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

When using FC or even Braid, you should periodically check the end five yards for nicks and frays. Weeds can tear up a line fairly quick. Mono in 10# test through the weeds is a true death sentence, especially at high speed retrieve speeds.


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## CANEYEGO (Feb 23, 2014)

Ditto on the line checking for nicks/abrasion. Other thing not mentioned here is importance of proper knot, properly tied. The Uni-knot (and the Double Santiago Jam Knot lol) and its variations is easy to tie (after a couple times practice), and does not "Clinch", which puts abrasions in flouro. And the Uni works for all line types. Abrasion within the knot becomes very important in lower line test/diameters.


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## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks everyone. 

Those that use braid, do you employ a fluorocarbon leader? I use braid for river finesse setups and use Seaguar red label. Wondering if on a fast moving reaction type lure like cranks if the added stealth was necessary


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## ristorap (Mar 6, 2013)

RiparianRanger said:


> How is it from a strength perspective? I was ripping a lipless through heavy grass and the line snapped. Was shocked the line failed but it's a costly failure I want to avoid


 The suffix nanobraid is 14 lb test diameter 0.008 I lifted a 14 1/2" bass out of the water onto the bank and pulled the jig out of snags . The line did not break and was not frayed . I was fishing around rocks.


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## Saugeyefisher (Jul 19, 2010)

RiparianRanger said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> Those that use braid, do you employ a fluorocarbon leader? I use braid for river finesse setups and use Seaguar red label. Wondering if on a fast moving reaction type lure like cranks if the added stealth was necessary


I only use floro leader in really clear water during the day. 
All other times i tie directly to the snap.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

I use braid on most of my rods now for the feel. I have used floro and you can most definetaly tell a difference between the two when jigging. I do use a floro leader, not a big deal, back to back uni's and your good to go. I usually put a dab of super glue on the knot to help it slide through the eyes better. The floro will help keep the crank from fouling when casting and then there's the invisibility thing.... if it matters.
Honestly though, I can't imagine that the diving difference between 10lb floro and 12lb braid would be that big. The floro would be thicker but sink, the braid would be thinner but float. Might be a wash....
So many choices, so little time.


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