# Minwax Sanding sealer



## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

I needed to get another quart because my last quart has started gelling. I was at Lowe's and couldn't find it in the yellow jar like normal, but found it in a professional grade with a gray label. I bought it and when I opened it, it was white like fat free milk. Will this stuff work like the regular sealer or should I continue looking for the regular yellow can? Thanks!


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## rcjohnson (Dec 11, 2008)

You didn't mention what you are using the sanding sealer for. I use it on wood. I used the Minwax but then discovered just buying a can of shellac and thinning it wih laquer thinner was t same thing. The white stuff will work just fine on wood but I prefer the shellac.


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## rcjohnson (Dec 11, 2008)

As an afterthought, just add some laquer thinner to the Minwax that is starting to gell.


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## geoffoquinn (Oct 2, 2011)

I've always used DEFT in the spray cans. I don't know much about the paint on stuff. I've seen brush strokes in a cabinet we had rebuilt and sanded it out and refinished it without a problem. I never had that issue with the spray cans I get a nice finish without having to do any excessive sanding above knocking off the raised grain.


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## rjbass (Aug 1, 2007)

Mark,

Unfortunately minwax has quit making the sanding sealer in the yellow can. This was my favorite and have used it for years. I still have two cans left and dread the thought when they run out. I know they have a new one out but have not tried it yet. That is probably what you purchased. The only way to find out is to try it and see how it works and let us know....

Rod


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

Hey fellas,

DO NOT USE THE NEW PROFESSIONAL GRADE MINWAX SANDING SEALER!!

It is water based and is not wax free. I also used up the last of my yellow can and went to purchase more to find that it has been discontinued. I spent $40 on a gallon of the new formula and the e-tex just ran right off the plug, as it was spinning, it would just fish eye off...there went $40 and a number of plug blanks!!!
I HATE having to change up my building process, especially when it's working, but now I have no choice.
I just switched to Spat Urethane / turpentine (60/40). Most of the saltwater builders use this mix (or spar/mineral spirits). The Spar urethane is for exterior wood sealing, and boats I believe. It is thinner and appears to penetrate the wood well (and no more using virgin lacquer thinner, stuff is NASTY). My sealed blanks are still drying, and so I have not had a chance to see how they behave with paint/e-tex, but I have been assured it will work.
There is also a wax free sanding sealer made by Zinsser that I have not tried but was recommended. 
I do not know how D2T will work with the professional grade (grey can) minwax as I don't use it for clearing any longer, but it does tend to be less forgiving than e-tex.

Good luck, looks like we will all have to get through this together . I have used the Minwax/lacquer thinner since I started building without a single failure related to water penetration....I'm bummed as Hell but the show must go on. Please let me know what others have been using and how it has worked out for them.

Best

MS


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## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

MS, thanks for the info. Could of used it about three days ago though. I got lures spinning now and will have to see how bad the etex is.


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

Let me know if it works for you? it won't take long with in the first hour it started fish eyeing on me?
If it wasn't the sealer I'm not sure what it could have been. Did you cut the sealer with anything??
Keep me posted, what type of wood, how long soak and dry.

Good luck!

MS


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## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

Ms.
well, the good news is most of it stayed in place, but still got some bad spots on the edges. I did primer the lures first with spray paint so that might of helped. I have both poplar and cedar blanks spinning now. I just put on the second coat abot an hour ago. We'll see how they hold up. I soaked them for about 20 minutes or so and they sat for three days prior to etexing.


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

Cutt'em,

Thanks for the update, did you thin the sealer? I didn't as it was pretty thin. I did not prime or sand the plugs at all. I just let them dry and then went with a preliminary coat of e-tex (This is how I typically build). So maybe the primer created a good enough barrier.
i'm very interested in how they turn out, please keep my posted. Maybe a couple of coats of spray clear will prep them for epoxy??

MS


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## rjbass (Aug 1, 2007)

Minwax does make a lacquer based sanding sealer that comes in a black can. I have not tried this, but it looks promising.

Rod

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-lacquer-sanding-sealer


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## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

Thanks Rod, I'll have to look at it. There's another that seems to be popular over on muskiefirst. It's made by sherman williams and called barrier coat or something like that. It's expensive though from what I've read. 

MS. I did sand the blanks since the other stuff seemed to raise the grain quite a bit. We'll see how they look in the morning. I also cleaned the blanks with rubbing alcohol to remove all the dust from the sanding. I know I'm not using it anymore. I'm on the hunt for the original stuff. I'm hoping I might find a can or two.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

Mark,

I still have a quart of the minwax sealer from last year...I believe its still good....you can have it if you want it.

Paul


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## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

I looked everywhere today for any leftover cans of the old sanding sealer. No luck. Paul, I'll take it if I can. Call me tonight.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

Is it the Minwax sealer in the black and gold can?? If so, thats what I got and its yours buddy.

Ill check out what exactly it is when I get home later and call you...


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

The Minwax Sanding Sealer I have a Qt. of here is in a greyish can and says "professional series" on it. I used it on my wood baits last year, and it seems to be holding up well with no issues. I put about 3 dips, scuff sanded when dry and applied a basecoat of white createx before painting. It does look a bit milky but not white and dried clear on the wood. Still yours if you want it Mark.


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## Bester (Dec 29, 2007)

I just started using spar/turp 50/50 and it seems to be working ok. Won't know the exact results until the first sat in june when I start trolling


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## fishing_marshall (Jun 12, 2004)

I was using sherwin williams sanding sealer. Seemed kind of waxy so switched to kils primer/sealer.


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## Cutt'em Jack (Feb 17, 2008)

How do you like the kils? I have to find something fast? I didn't find anything yesterday and am going on the search again in a couple hours.


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## fishing_marshall (Jun 12, 2004)

I like the kils so far. It really seems to raise the grain of the wood compared to a sanding sealer, but a light sand and you're good to go.


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## jerkin (Apr 3, 2008)

Mark, I got away from the minwax last year when it gelled up on me and was so expensive to replace. I used a different type that I found in Lowes on everything I built last year and it works as well as the Minwax as far as I can tell and it was way cheaper. It might be a little more viscous. "Zinsser Bullseye Seal Coat Universal Sanding Sealer 100% wax free Shellac" is what it says on the can.

I have some 10" tall by 4" diameter hdpe jars with o-rings on them that I put it in and use to soak the lures. Last week I just opened one that I haven't touched since last year and it looks the same as when I poured it in there, the o_ring really helps to keep the air out. I soaked a couple gliders in it over the weekend with no problems. Let me know if you want one of those jars and I'll grab one when I'm at the lab this week.


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

Jerkin,

Thanks for the info, others have said similar things about the zinsser sealer, are you thinning it with anything?

Where can one get the HDPE containers?

How quickly does it dry? Is it lacquer based or mineral spirits?

Best,

MS


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## jerkin (Apr 3, 2008)

Slayer, I'm not sure if the Zinsser is lacquer or mineral spirit based. I'll take a look at the can sometime today and see if it says anything. Here is a link to what I bought: http://www.lowes.com/pd_84751-90-04...l__0__s?Ntt=zinsser+sanding+sealer&facetInfo= 

Looks like the price has went up though, I paid $30 a gallon last year now it's $40, probably because Minwax quit making theirs lol. I really can't tell a difference in the final product in using either sealer, they both work equally well for me but I don't make near as many lures as a lot of you guys either so I don't have hundreds of hours of water time on them but they held up to 9 full days of trolling on Erie last year with no problems.

I haven't mixed it with anything, just used it straight from the can like I did the Minwax. I usually soak them for 15-20 minutes then pull them out of the jar and let them dry overnight before I do anything else but they are pretty much dry to the touch after another 15-20 minutes.

You won't find those jars I use anywhere, they are a patented, proprietary design that one of my clients uses for hazmat packages. One of those wide mouth Nalgene bottles would work if you could find one large enough, we have pressure tested those to 14psi and they don't leak.


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

Jerkin,

Thanks for the reply..may have to give it a try..Hows the smell?

it's denatured alcohol based, I ask because I like ti thin them a little for better penetration.

I'll look into the Nalgene, I've had good luck with large glass pickle jars with clear plastic wrap under the lid

MS


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## jerkin (Apr 3, 2008)

It doesn't smell too bad, it is a little different smell than the Minwax but not overpowering. I do all my work in my basement and I've never felt the need to ventilate or anything. I like the idea of thinning it if we could figure out what to thin it out with correctly. Maybe the spec sheet on the link has some info? I could try calling the manufacturer also and see what they recommend.


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## muskyslayer96 (Feb 28, 2009)

I took a look online and it looks like it's denatured alcohol based (probably why it dries so fast) so denatured alcohol should be the way to go...how's the viscosity compared to minwax? i used to thin my minwax 60/40 with lacquer thinner!

MS


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## dmills4124 (Apr 9, 2008)

Kim and I have been turning wood for several years and we mix a lacuer, thinner and lindseed oil that needs shaken really good before application. It can be used as a sanding sealer to raise the grain and hairlike fibers so they can be sanded to a smoother surface. The mixture is also foodsafe and water resistant after it has completly dried. The more you apply and buff the higher the quality on the surface it becomes.
I cant remember the ratio on the mixture, I think you need to experiment with the types of wood you are working with as to grain tightness and fiber length.
good luck
donm


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## jerkin (Apr 3, 2008)

Slayer, I think it's definitely a little thicker than Minwax but I called the manufacturer on my way up to the lab today and they told me to thin it with denatured alcohol so you were right. I stopped by Home Depot on the way home and picked up a quart, I'll try thinning it down on my next lures and see how it does. Home Depot carries the Zinsser also and it was a little cheaper, $38/gallon.

I grabbed one of those O-ring jars for Cuttem while I was up there (He lives close to me) and threw an extra one in the truck for you if you want it. Pm me your address and I'll stick it in the mail this week. I looked online at those Nalgene jars and they're like $17 each, these are free, lol.


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## rjbass (Aug 1, 2007)

The Bullseye sounds like it might be the way to go. I really don't think thinning it is necessary unless its a personal preference. I used minwax for years and years and sold hundreds of baits and used it straight out of the can and never had a failure even with tooth punctures...anyway, Jerkin, thanks for sharing, great info!!

Rod


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