# Pond aeration



## F1504X4 (Mar 23, 2008)

I know I'm going on a long shot but we are looking for some ideas for aeration for our pond to help control the algae and overall health of the pond. It's a 2 year old pond and the algae growth around the edges is getting disheartening. Fortunately we haven't had any problems with fish kills or anything like that but we'd like to prevent it. A windmill was our first choice because of the ponds location but funds don't allow that right now. It would be about 7000.00 to make the run with electric so that's obviously not an option. 

I've seen a few solar and battery powered aeration units. My question is, are they worth the 700.00 price tag? What other options do we have? Has anybody made their own aerators? 

We are currently using barley straw and it seems to help a little but just looking for some ideas. We are trying to avoid chemicals but fear it may be our only option at this point. I spent a couple hours the other morning raking all the algae from around the edges and needless to say that wasn't the most fun. 

Thanks in advance!


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## WillyB2 (Dec 28, 2008)

You can push air for a long way. I ran my air line from the house to my pond which was approximately 1500 ft. I run 3 different aerators in the pond with no issues. How far away is your power supply?


----------



## Curtis937 (Sep 17, 2010)

You should look on the odnr page they have great info on algae management 


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## F1504X4 (Mar 23, 2008)

I would say our run would be every bit of 1000ft to the nearest edge of the pond. I guess we never thought about running the air instead of electric. 


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## garryc (Jan 21, 2006)

F1504X4 said:


> I would say our run would be every bit of 1000ft to the nearest edge of the pond. I guess we never thought about running the air instead of electric.
> 
> 
> Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire



I'd run a trencher to the pond, full depth, and them lay in 3/4" or 1" PEX or black poly. Fill the trench easy for the first 6", no big rocks, and call it good. Just like laying a water line. Bring it to a riser of equal diameter then manifold off that riser for however many diffusers you would need.

A 3/4" line will supply two 1/2" lines with a little room to spare, 1" with lots of room to spare. The expansion factor of 2.25 in the 3/4" pipe and 4 in the 1" should mitigate any line drop that might occur. While the output port on the pump is likely 1/2" itself running that diameter for over 1000' would cause a good bit of line drop. Whatever the velocity of the air is at the input port of 1/2" in diameter would be cut by a factor of 2.25 in a 3/4" pipe, or 4 in a 1". The velocity of the flow is directly related to the line drop. 

If you look at this table you can see the psi drop by distance. This is Black pipe, which has a greater resistance than PEX or Poly, but the idea is the same. Add that to a factor of .431psi per foot of depth of the diffuser and you can see that the numbers do add up. So run at least 3/4" pipe, 1" would even be better. Note that the riser diameter needs to be the same size as the pipe, then break it down at the manifold. 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pressure-drop-compressed-air-pipes-d_852.html

And yes, I over analyzed that.


----------



## WillyB2 (Dec 28, 2008)

I ran the 1" black pipe from Lowes. It comes in 100 foot sections so you need use couplings to connect each section together. I glued and clamped to assure no air leaks. F1504X4, I am going to send you a PM.


----------



## garryc (Jan 21, 2006)

Home Depot has 1" poly at $117 for 300 feet. So that would be 3 rolls at $351. That is 1/3rd the cost of 12-2 underground rated. I never liked direct bury wire, especially in such a long run.

You should be able to rent a ride on trencher for $200-$225 a day. (At least I can from Willow rental in Lorain) Take my advice and get a heavy ride on, walk behinds are a PITA when you get to roots and stones.

When you get to the pond end build a box out of pave brick that sits flush with the top of the ground with the top on. Just run the poly pipe up the side of the trench into the bottom of the box. Put your manifold in there. Once you balance your system with the valves you probably will never need to open that box again. Put the stone on top and forget about it. Now you don't have to look at a manifold next to the pond. The grass will pretty quickly cover that stone and you won't even be able to see that. 

And don't use stones as diffusers, use the membrane type like Vertex sells

http://www.cleanponds.com/information.php?info_id=17


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2006)

You can literally pump air for miles with minimal losses in pressure and volume. You only have to trench air pipe deep enough that it will be protected...1'-1.5' is fine. Electric bottom diffuser is the best, most cost effective, lowest maintenance option as long as the pond is 6' deep or deeper. The black poly irrigation pipe is cheap and lasts. Use the weighted high dollar tubing anywhere the pipe goes above ground, the transition from compressor housing to ground, edge of pone, and in the pond...it's worth every penny. Use fertilizer grade Heavy duty stainless hose clamps where hose clamps are needed.


----------



## hang_loose (Apr 2, 2008)

Good info [email protected], your next post will be your 1000th!!! Congrats!


----------

