# Airbrushed lures Top coat



## gunnysargent12

This was requested and placed in a different forum, as I was told it wasn't the right forum.

Those who like to paint and airbrush their own lures in the off season, what is the "BEST" and durable clearcoat for the money? I've tried CS Sealcoat (junk), I found a 2 part epoxy called Envirotex Lite from Michaels(craft store) but it's thick and needs to be brushed on. Levels nice but it's time consuming with having to brush a coat on, let dry, recoat, dry, recoat. I came across USC High Gloss 2K clearcoat in a spray can last night but for the 12oz spray can, it's $20. It appears to a 2 part expoxy in a spray can that professional autobody people use to touch up spots. Seems pretty volatile though as a respirator is needed. Please don't tell me Devcon either as it is a 2 part glue that needs to be brushed on also. Tried it and it's junk. I'm looking for a very durable clearcoat finish for those toothy bastards. Anyone ever use any of the automotive clearcoats in a spray can? Just worried it'll chip like it does on a car if chomped on. What about any clearcoats for an airbrush? Brands? Does it need to be thinned for airbrush and what to thin it with? I have read that Dick Nites makes a good clearcoat, can it be thinned for airbrush or how do you apply it? Thanks


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## spinnerbayt

To start with... are you wanting to coat plastic baits or wood baits? If plastic you can probably get by with a good automotive clear but your not going to be able to do that in the house. If you are doing wood baits you are most likely going to have to stick with Devcon 2 ton or Etex or other very similar 2 part epoxy. Brush and spin with several coats to protect that paint and wood. There is no magic clear coat. They all have strengths and weaknesses. You just need to decide which one is best for you. As for myself I make wood baits so I roll with the Etex and have no issues.


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## goolies

As mentioned above by spinnerbayt there is no magic clear coat. Most people building baits for toothy critters use a 2 part epoxy as a topcoat. Epoxy gives you the best protection. You may want to look into using Bob Smith Inc. (BSI) 30 minute epoxy. IMO it is better than Devcon and sets up much quicker than Etex. It can be thinned out with a few drops of denatured alcohol. You would still need a drying wheel to rotate the bait until the epoxy sets up.

Another option may be to look into using a moisture cured urethane such as Dick Nites S81 or KBS Diamond Top Coat. Crank baits can be dipped and then hung to dry.

You can find much more info on top coats if you go to the Hard Baits forum on tackleunderground. Good luck.


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## All Eyes

Regarding clear coats from a spray can, I have tried every one I could find. None of them hold up like epoxy IMO. Some of the dip and drip dry coatings out there have some good reviews. I've only tried a couple of them but went back to epoxy and a drying wheel.


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## Jim Paden

Gunny:
What was the problem with CS Seal Coat. I have used that for a while without problems. I thin it a bit and spray. Share with me your application procedure and problems encountered. Small items like fly rod poppers I dip and rotate.


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## gunnysargent12

Jim Paden said:


> Gunny:
> What was the problem with CS Seal Coat. I have used that for a while without problems. I thin it a bit and spray. Share with me your application procedure and problems encountered. Small items like fly rod poppers I dip and rotate.





Jim Paden said:


> Gunny:
> What was the problem with CS Seal Coat. I have used that for a while without problems. I thin it a bit and spray. Share with me your application procedure and problems encountered. Small items like fly rod poppers I dip and rotate.


Jim
I brushed it on. Levels out decent but is NOT durable at all. Does not dry as hard as Etex. Almost feels like a "rubber" coat than a clear coat. I do shake the heck out of the jar before I apply it. Never thinned it to spray.


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## Jim Paden

gunnysargent12 said:


> Jim
> I brushed it on. Levels out decent but is NOT durable at all. Does not dry as hard as Etex. Almost feels like a "rubber" coat than a clear coat. I do shake the heck out of the jar before I apply it. Never thinned it to spray.


Gunny:
I found somewhere on the CSI Paint website that their finish could be reduced with up to 10% water. I tried that and my opinion of the product changed. Like yourself I at first tried to apply directly from the contained and was not impressed at all. The down side to thinning is that you will need to apply more coats but they will dry in a very short time and will be hard yet flexible. I have not experienced any rubbery feel or tackiness at all. You can apply several coats of CSI quicker than 1 coat of ETex. I do rotate the coated lures to eliminate any drips or runs.








Here is a photo of some poppers. Left to right, has one coat of sprayed on reduced CSI over paint. Next one has 2 coats, 3 coats and 4 coats. You can see the finish build up.









Some crank baits, same reduced CSI over paint and foil, sorry don't recall exactly the number of coats. Guessing 3 to 4.

Happy to answer any questions you may have.

(I have no business relationship with CSI Paint)


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## All Eyes

Nice looking baits Jim. 
This issue has been the topic of many threads over the years. Some have had good results with different clear coats besides epoxy. Plastic pellets dissolved in virgin lacquer thinner or acetone is one such method that works but IMO still lacks the durability of multiple coats of E-Tex. The benefits of the plastic is that it's much faster drying and you can dip a bait in the solution and let it drip dry instead of using a drying wheel. It's also a great way to seal wood baits prior to painting. Still, no spray can clear coat that I've tried holds a candle to epoxy for durability.


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## Jim Paden

All Eyes said:


> Nice looking baits Jim.
> This issue has been the topic of many threads over the years. Some have had good results with different clear coats besides epoxy. Plastic pellets dissolved in virgin lacquer thinner or acetone is one such method that works but IMO still lacks the durability of multiple coats of E-Tex. The benefits of the plastic is that it's much faster drying and you can dip a bait in the solution and let it drip dry instead of using a drying wheel. It's also a great way to seal wood baits prior to painting. Still, no spray can clear coat that I've tried holds a candle to epoxy for durability.


Eyes:
You are correct, the clear coat has always been the the most problem to lure makers. Its the most important to the life span of the lure too.
Maybe a point of clarification is in order here. I referred to sprayed several times in my reply to Gunny. Just to clarify, CSI Seal Coat to the best of my knowledge is only sold as a liquid in small bottles or in the usual paint can quantities. 
And "sprayed" should have been clarified that I was using a standard airbrush to apply the canned product.

You are correct, nothing as strong as E-Tex or epoxy but its a pain to get right as are most clear top coats.


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## All Eyes

Jim Paden said:


> Eyes:
> You are correct, the clear coat has always been the the most problem to lure makers. Its the most important to the life span of the lure too.
> Maybe a point of clarification is in order here. I referred to sprayed several times in my reply to Gunny. Just to clarify, CSI Seal Coat to the best of my knowledge is only sold as a liquid in small bottles or in the usual paint can quantities.
> And "sprayed" should have been clarified that I was using a standard airbrush to apply the canned product.
> 
> You are correct, nothing as strong as E-Tex or epoxy but its a pain to get right as are most clear top coats.


Never tried a clear coat through my airbrush, as I always paint indoors with water based paint. I figured it's what you were referring to when you mentioned thinning it. My reply was more directed to the question of spray can top coats that gets brought up a lot. Always keeping my ears open for other options, and most definately appreciate the input and information from experienced builders like yourself. Thanks


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## c. j. stone

Being a longtime jig maker, I've had chipping issues with them TIL I started using Sally Hanson Hard As Nails clear nail polish. I now use it on every painted(non-powder coated) jig I make after tying on the tail end dressing and always coat the threads as well. Adds a terrific "depth shine" effect to new, faded, dulled used jigs as well. It should work on any type well-cured, painted lures. Thin it when it gets "gummy". Yeah, it's not fancy, has to be brushed on, but it does a helluva job for me!(And dries to touch in less than an hour.) Personally, I think clear-coat spray paints should be used on cars!


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