# Painting Spoons and Harness Blades



## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

Just ordered a PS900 Airbrush after reading a lot of the posts below and now have a few questions about painting blades. Im looking forward to tinkering around..

First: What is the best type of paint to use on spoon blanks or worm harness blades. Looking for something that will be fairly durable and only come off if the fish knock it off.

Second: Many of these companies that sell the components allow you to order laquered blades. Is this a good surface to spray too, or should you order them bare bones metal and spray to that?


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

I can't help you with an air brush as I powder paint all of mine, bake them and clear coat with D2T. The finish holds up really well even after banging them on the rocks. Here are some pics of powder painted bodies and blades


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## smalliediehard (Oct 28, 2005)

those are extremly nice cadman,i have a tough time with powder paints.


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

smalliediehard said:


> those are extremly nice cadman,i have a tough time with powder paints.


I'm going to start a new thread in a couple of days on how I basically powder paint my jigs and spinnerbaits. I do not want to hijack this thread. So bear with me.


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## silver shad (Jun 18, 2006)

cadman those are A#1


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## Keith R (Feb 19, 2006)

O.K. Back to the question.

I use the air brush paint that you can get from Jann's Netcraft and it comes with a clear topcoat. 11 colors and the seal coat for about $33.00. or I use the water base model paint from the hobby store, and use the above seal coat over top of that.

Keith R.


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## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

Keith do you buy the blades already Laquered, or do you just order bare metal?

Is the clear a water based as well??

Janns is out of stock on the paint...Can you laquer over the waterbased stuff once it dries?


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## Fish Scalper (Oct 31, 2009)

Seal Coat is waterbased, one part, no mixing. It works fine with other water based products, but not with solvents. It will realease as a skin quite often when a solvent is above or below it and take everything with it.


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## Keith R (Feb 19, 2006)

I buy the bare metal one's. 

Ditto what Fish Scalper say's. I use all water base paints.

Keith R.


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## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

Is their any prep or primer needed?


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## Keith R (Feb 19, 2006)

I do sand the blades a little first. If I am going to have a solid color blade I will use a primer coat. If I am just painting the edges and leaving the background bare (copper, brass, etc) I will just paint then seal coat. Have not had any trouble yet with paint coming off. Seal coat seems to be pretty tough.

At Harbor Freight I found a mini sandblaster, They call it an eraser and can be used for etching glass for like $20.00. It is the size of an airbrush. I am going to get one of those and try that out before painting.

Keith R.


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## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

wonder how the laquered ones would react to the water based paints with the seal coat overtop...think it would reject the paint? Im just wondering about preserving the flash.

Seems all copper blades come pre laquered so that is why im questioning...


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## Keith R (Feb 19, 2006)

I think the copper blades will tarnish if they are not sealed in some manner.

Keith R.


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## Fish Scalper (Oct 31, 2009)

The seal coat will peal off lacquered blades from my experience, heck the lacquer will peal off the backs sometimes after you paint the fronts depending on how you lay them out to dry. You can buy copper blades without lacquer and just coat them yourself with sealcoat if you're going to go all waterbase. You could use sealcoat on the back, then all solvent paint on the front and shouldn't have an issue, just don't mix the two on either side. I do well buying copper and then powder coating both sides with clear; seems all paint sticks to powder, including waterbases. Silver has the same issue as copper as it's lacquered also. Gold and nickel are not, but paint doesn't like to stick to either of those.


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## CarpetBagger (Sep 21, 2009)

I think just going off what I see I may have to go for a laquer paint...

Who makes a good air brush laquer if i decide to go this route?


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## loki (Jan 24, 2010)

Try hydro mist or lifetone paint .Water base or lacquer.I've used lifetone for years .Clear powder coating is the way to go before you paint the blanks.Jim.C


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## Andrey (Jun 17, 2018)

[QUOTE = "cadman, post: 945662, участник: 17261"] Я собираюсь начать новую тему через пару дней о том, как я в основном порошковой краской мои приспособления и spinnerbaits. Я не хочу захватить эту тему. Так что медведь со мной. [/ QUOTE]
Вы можете выслать бесплатный учебник как красить порошковой краской.


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## kingfisher72 (May 14, 2016)

С нетерпением жду этого!! Спасибо


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## Andrey (Jun 17, 2018)

[QUOTE = "cadman, post: 945500, участник: 17261"] Я не могу помочь вам с воздушной щеткой, потому что я порошковой краской все свое, выпекаю и прозрачный слой с D2T. Финиш отлично держится даже после того, как ударил их по камням. Вот некоторые фотографии порошковых окрашенных тел и лезвий





















[/ QUOTE]
[QUOTE = "Андрей, сообщение: 2455543, участник: 76987"] [QUOTE = "cadman, post: 945662, участник: 17261"] Я собираюсь начать новую тему через пару дней о том, как я в основном порошковой краской мои приспособления и Spinnerbaits. Я не хочу захватить эту тему. Так что медведь со мной. [/ QUOTE]
Вы можете выслать бесплатный учебник как красить порошковой краской.


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