# Tips on bow accuracy



## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

Practice makes perfect on the range, but in the field, bow accuracy seems to be far from perfect. Twigs and leaves, low light, judging distance, bent fletching, cold weather, rain, wind, bow tension variation, and long periods of sitting still are some of the factors. I started this thread to get some advice from everyone on how and if the factors can really be controlled to eliminate errors. So, let's hear how you handle these and other problems.
:!


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## GPtimes2 (May 14, 2006)

Bow accuracy shouldn't be far from perfect in the field. If in doubt, don't take the shot. Thats the short answer to everything you listed.
Their are some solutions to some of what you listed though.
A good way to judge distance (without a range finder) is to look at the ground and judge ten yards at a time. 
A way to judge limbs that are above your sight window is to judge the distance first to the limb, then to the target. If your 20 yard pin is on the target and the limb is 10 yards you will know if your 10 yard pin then lines up with the limb, you will hit it. (It's still better to clear a lane beforehand).
Low light- If you have good vision, the regs (1/2 hr. before sunrise or after sunset) should be appropriate.
Problems with fletchings (or any equipment) - Don't use it.
To cold- Wear warmer chlothing, take hand warmers, move around, or go back to tha truck.
Some things you encounter can't be controlled. Just try and make ethical choices that you won't regret. If you talk to people who have been shot, shot someone, wounded or missed animals, or damaged something, they would tell you it wasn't worth taking the chance. 
I think we should encourage everyone to be this way!
Good hunting to you


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## BassBlaster (Jun 8, 2006)

I agree with you 100% GP. I have been hunting many years but only bowhunting for about three years. I havn't got that first bow kill yet because I am so cautios. I've only had a couple oppertunities to even take a deer with a bow but have passed when I did because I feel that as a hunter we have a responsiblillity to make sure the situation is as perfect as it can be before we go winging arrows at em. This is my first year on this site and I can't believe how many stories there are about unrecovered animals. I also noticed that everytime there is a story like that, there is also an unbelievable amount of others that will defend them at all cost. Not that I am perfect. I never had anyone to teach me how to hunt and what shots to take or not take. When I first started deer hunting, I gut shot a doe during gun season and never found her. I had the sickest feeling inside of me for a long time. From that point on I practice alot, with the slug gun and even more with the bow and I only take shots when I know I can make a clean kill even if it meens missed oppertunities. I have been deer hunting for 12 years now. Just got my first buck last season. I have been bowhunting for three years now. Havn't got a kill yet. Maybe I'm too conservative with my shots but I don't have to worry about deer walking around the woods wounded because of my bad judgement. Sorry so long. I just feel like this is a very importantant issue and it really gets to me.


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## DaleM (Apr 5, 2004)

BassBlaster said:


> I agree with you 100% GP. I have been hunting many years but only bowhunting for about three years. I havn't got that first bow kill yet because I am so cautios. I've only had a couple oppertunities to even take a deer with a bow but have passed when I did because I feel that as a hunter we have a responsiblillity to make sure the situation is as perfect as it can be before we go winging arrows at em. This is my first year on this site and I can't believe how many stories there are about unrecovered animals. I also noticed that everytime there is a story like that, there is also an unbelievable amount of others that will defend them at all cost. Not that I am perfect. I never had anyone to teach me how to hunt and what shots to take or not take. When I first started deer hunting, I gut shot a doe during gun season and never found her. I had the sickest feeling inside of me for a long time. From that point on I practice alot, with the slug gun and even more with the bow and I only take shots when I know I can make a clean kill even if it meens missed oppertunities. I have been deer hunting for 12 years now. Just got my first buck last season. I have been bowhunting for three years now. Havn't got a kill yet. Maybe I'm too conservative with my shots but I don't have to worry about deer walking around the woods wounded because of my bad judgement. Sorry so long. I just feel like this is a very importantant issue and it really gets to me.


Fasntastic post Bass. Couldn't have said it any better. I agree with you 100%
GP same to you buddy, I can't understand why anyone would take a shot without being sure they will make a good clean hit.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I would suspect improper equipment setup or just the excitement of the moment as to being the biggest problems to effect accuracy in the field. 
For equipment, be sure of your setup. Manufactures all claim their broadheads will fly like fieldtips, but as many people know, alot do not. Always practice with the broadheads you intend to hunt with. 
As for the excitement, thats why we hunt. However, tell yourself to slow down, take a deep breath. Bad things happen when you feel rushed. Generally, the few extra seconds won't matter, most would rather not take the shot than to loose the deer do to a poor hit.


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## jiggin'fool (Dec 18, 2005)

I had a buck come in on me this weekend and he was 22 yards before i saw him(came in behind me) and when I saw him my heart started racing and I drew back and almost took a very rushed shot, my heart was pounding and i was breathing real heavy! I let down and then noticed his g2 and g3 on his left side were busted off and he would have been a very disappointing deer to take to my standards!!! that is if I would have made a good shot in my rushed state! everyhting happened so fast and almost made a bad shot! I know how hard it is to calm yourself down but if you start thinking about where you need to put your shot, how the deer is standing, where the arrow will exit the deer, how far he is and exactly what pin you need, you start thinking about those things you calm down! and it only takes a couple seconds! I think that is why most people take bad shots is because they don't want that deer to get away.... and when they are all pumped up on adrenaline you don't think straight either... especially our young hunters, and i would consider myself a young hunter as well at 24 even though I have been hunting since I was 10 and bowhunting for probably 10 years.... I have a lot to learn! thanks for starting this thread I think alot of people needed to learn a little more!


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

GP seems to have headed toward the intended target of this thread. The shot selection issue would fit better in another thread, but it would likely end up in endless arguement. 
Back to the topic please.....let's assume the situation is legal, the shot placement was double lung at 15 to 35 yards, but somehow it missed due to the bow and conditions. For example twigs and leaves is solved by clearing them out of the way and defining shooting lanes and no-shot lanes in good light. Sort of a no brainer, but my first couple of years I did not know how important it really is. Legal light is not the same for all shots - deep woods/ravines/thickets, heavy cloud cover, and dark backgrounds....what do we all need to know about it? That's the point of the thread.


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## DaleM (Apr 5, 2004)

King, good points you made.
Here's what I do around my stand: I clear out a good shooting lane in what ever direction I know the deer are taking. It's not possible to have all avenues covered as we all know. I take the time to clear out limbs, twigs, and anything that may mess up a shot. I'll say there have been times I wish I would have cleared a few more  as 1 small twig has stopped me from taking a shot a few times. 
As for safe light? You said it good, it depends on where you are at day break. I have a place in Hocking Country that depending on where you set there could be 15-20 minutes or more in having what I consider safe shooting light. One of my stands is located on top of a ridge that you can see a good distance just about at day light. I have another down by a creek bed that I need a light to get into several minutes after what the State calls legal shooting times. I'm blessed with the guys I hunt with as we all know where the others are and what area not to shoot towards. Also we all agree on what time we would shoot and be safe. I have hunted with the same guys, except for our kids joining us now, for 25-30 years. I learned a long time ago it's better to wait a while rather than take a chance of injuring an animal or worse another hunter. 
Thanks for starting this thread. I know we'll all learn a little from it.


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## jiggin'fool (Dec 18, 2005)

well shot selection plays a huge role in bow accuracy, especially if the shot you selected goes through a buch of twigs! butl if you hunt with a crossbow the cold really shouldn't affect you! if you hunt with a compound I usually stand up and draw every hour to make sure I am not so stiff I can't pull it back! and if your equipment is faulty you shouldn't even be out in the field... judging distances is easy with a range finder but if you don't have the money for that the ten yard thing will work or walk off a couple of trees that are about 30 yards away! that way you know that deer is 15 yards away if he is half way to that tree! but I still think the variables are controlled immensley by the hunters emotions when that deer is approaching.... high excitement and adrenaline can make you think there is a hole there when there is really a bunch of twigs..... and it can also make you rush a shot! but if you calm yourself i think you have a much greater chance to take those variables completely out of the situation! hopefully that is a little more "on topic" for ya!


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

Here is a suggestion that I don't believe has been brought up yet. Practice shooting your bow in your full hunting outfit. You often will find issues with your garments that you didn't suspect. Perhaps your arrow slaps your sleeve on your brace arm but never does when you are practicing. Perhaps your vision is changed a bit by the camo mask that you are wearing. Personally I don't like wearing the masks for that reason. I opt for camo paint instead. Also, with the cold weather you need more layers of clothing and this can affect your release. Wearing different gloves may cause one to torque the grip. We had a buddy in our camp last week that figures that was a factor with him pulling his shot left and missing.

I always carry one or two arrows with me for practice and most every time out I will take at least one practice shot. Not only does it help my confidence but it also helps remind me of things to watch out for. (bow clearance, twigs, distance miscalculations, etc.) Never assume that all is well with your weapon just becasue it was a week or so ago when you were practicing in the back yard.


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

Here is another tip.

Make sure you practice from the tree stand (assuming you will be hunting from one). I think a mistake that many make (I did for many years) is that they tend to stand straight upright when shooting at a target in close. This can change your release angle, your sight reference, and perhaps do other things to alter your shot. You need to bend at the waist to maintain the same bow position as you do on horizontal shots. I believe this contributes to a lot of high shot placements on those 10-15 yard shots.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

In my opinion,

The absolute number one reason for a miss or wounded deer with shots taken within good bow range, 30 yds and in has nothing to do with equipment, twigs, leaves, clothes, yardage, etc. It has everything to do with letting your emotions take over and forgetting all of those great shooting form regimens you follow while practicing. Those deer come in and all of a sudden the bow grip is different, the anchor point changes or there suddenly is no anchor point  , releases get punched, triggers get yanked, no spot is picked, just aiming at the deer, bow arms get dropped, big time, to watch the arrow hit the deer.

If many bowhunters just concentrated more on form and less on the deer it would be much easier for them. Make a mental check list that you run through while actually performing the shot, it will distract you from the deer and keep you making a good shot.

Something like this is what I use. Find one that works for you.

Pick yardage - Know what yardage you plan to shot it for BEFORE drawing your bow back and be committed to your decision. You have good shot form to be thinking about during the shot, you can not be thinking about yardage at the same time, just doesn't work

Anchor - anchor point, kisser button, peep, whatever you use.

Aim - at a SPOT on the deer.

Squeeze and follow through. Hold the pin on the spot, squeeze the release, trigger, whatever, and HOLD the pin on the spot after the shot. It does you no good to try and see where you arrow is going, it's gone and will go where it will, you dropping your bow arm to look will ONLY hurt the shot not help it.

So with this checklist I would have a 4 step procedure that I would go through that is really just me talking to me  as I go through the shot. Worked for me.


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## chase845 (Nov 2, 2005)

I agree with Lundy. I think it's mostly mental. Get more into process and less into results.


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

On bent or damaged fletchings. It is easy to see damaged damaged fletching if you look for it, but it is sometimes hard for me to remember to carefully inspect each time. As for bent fletching, that's sometimes hard to tell. Quivers are there to protect them, but they don't do their job laying on the back seat of the car with the coats on top. I keep my quiver positioned so that the fletches are not supporting anything and so that nothing is laying on them - or else they get bent and do not bend back to original position, especially in cold weather. That goes for hanging in the tree or in the ground blind. A bent fletching can throw an arrow off by as much as a foot in 25 yards. 
Loose broadheads can cause almost this level of error too. They need to be checked so that are properly rotated and tight just like they were on the range.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

TheKing said:


> Loose broadheads can cause almost this level of error too. They need to be checked so that are properly rotated


You need to give me your reasoning on what you mean by "properly rotated"??

I have personally never experienced the fletch deviation causing that great of impact point changes that you describe. I used to shoot a lot of bare (no fletching) shaft when tuning my bows checking for arrow spline to draw weight suitability. Not saying it can't happen with a poorly tuned bow It's just I've never seen it.


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

Lundy,
The basis for bent fletching is a series of 20 shots. 10 with a new arrow, 10 with a one with bent fletchings from laying flat on the table for a week. I never have tested without fletchings.

Properly rotated broadhead for 3-bladed broadhead and a 3-fletched bolt as follows - blades of the broadhead exactly out of phase with the fletchings so that all are equally spaced when viewed from the front or rear. The blade l.e. vortex trajectory does not interfere with fletching aerodynamics in this pattern.


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

Bows manufactured of composite materials are temperature dependent. Error margin is a foot and more. 

A series of bench tests with one of the most popular crossbows on the market showed that a bow tuned in 45 degree temperatures shoots conisistently accurate when cocked and left to sit cocked for 4 hours. But the same bow left cocked in 25 degree temperatures shoots more than a foot low after sitting cocked beyond three hours. Cycling the bow in cold temperatures eliminates the problem for this bow. I now uncock and reload in the field every couple of hours.

The test results are slow to produce, but if you keep after it over a week or two it can be evaluated thoroughly and you can learn what these properties are for your bow.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

TheKing said:


> Lundy,
> 
> Properly rotated broadhead for 3-bladed broadhead and a 3-fletched bolt as follows - blades of the broadhead exactly out of phase with the fletchings so that all are equally spaced when viewed from the front or rear. The blade l.e. vortex trajectory does not interfere with fletching aerodynamics in this pattern.


Interesting concept. The arrows are being shot with a helical fletch, right?

What do you do about balancing the broadheads? The insert or the glue on adapters must be turned for balancing and the threads only allow for a determined number of turns to full tight how do you balance AND provide for blade orientation?


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

Yep, helical.

You'll have to enlighten me(us) on the balancing....new concept for me.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

Here is a previous thread that gets into broadhead balancing on the second page.

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53450


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Lots of folks talk about bow set-up and practice before the season. However once the season starts, all their energy goes towards hunting. For this reason, I have a target set-up in my basement. Its only an 8 yard shot but it helps me keep my muscles in shape and keeps me in form. I try to shoot at least 50 or so shots each week. I shoot both field points and broadheads. Even though the target is only 8 yards, all the components of the shot are the same. In season practice is a confidence booster and lets you know if your equipment is having any problems. I've bowhunted for over 30 years and the one thing I've always noticed, is that my broadheads tend to impact a little higher than my field points. I prefer a fixed blade broadhead, so to counter this I use 85 grain field points and 100 grain broadheads. Everyones set-up is different, but this should all be done before going in the field. Broadheads are a whole other world. (I'm not going there)

As I, and others have said, the only real difference out hunting and at the practice target is the LIVE target (deer). It adds a sense of urgency. Our emotims come into play here unlike at any shot we've practiced for. The stakes are a little higher, Just remember, stop and take a deep breath, you got time, pick a spot...... good luck


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

There are some that can tell the difference between 25 and 30 yards, but not a majority. Even fewer that can be right when the shot is off to the left or right without some cues in the field. Shot error in the order of 6-12 inches for 5-10 yard misjudge inside 30 yards. This gets worse from 30-40 yards. Until they put the range finders in the scopes (and there is at least one on the market though it has weakness), physical cues in the field are required. 

The shooting range that I go to has the yardage marked conveniently for me. And in field practice, I have time to use the rangefinder on every shot. Haven't really had that many shots where the animal stays put long enough to double check with my rangefinder before the shot. And fumbling around with it during a few second opportunity with those dear ears so close doesn't improve odds anyway. Personally, I can tell 20 yards and in. But my judgement is off at 25 yards and out. Kind of makes things a bit tougher than the range, eh? I can be as cool as a cucumber, but I need to know range to a couple of yards to hit the paper plate sized kill zone when the shot is 25 yards and out. 

This is where I really have to work and mark the shot area carefully. So, the marks in the field in various rays from the stand/blind are a must for me.


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

I would definitely say that an improperly tuned broadhead will alter your shot more than an bent or even partially missing fletching. When you have three or four feathers/vanes they are working together to hold the arrow straight in flight. So losing a portion of a feather/vane does not impede the others from doing their work. Conversely, if your broadhead is not properly tuned there is nothing compensating for it. If you want to test this take an arrow and shoot it with on or two blade missing from the broadhead. This will throw the arrow way out of balance and who knows where it will end up. Then take an arrow with a feather/vane missing. You will see a difference in the flight I I bet you will hit the target bale.


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## TheKing (Apr 15, 2004)

The bow string on a cross bow or compound bow must be cocked so that the tension is even on both sides of the lock/nock. If you not, you can easily be off by as much as a foot or more. To make sure of this, I mark my bow string at the middle and use the mark to guide my string into the correct position in the trigger mechanism. A 1/16 inch error in this relates to 8-12 inches shot error at 25 yards.

BKR, if the back edge of any fletch comes loose by as little as 1/4 inch, you will not hit that target bale.


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

That is a good suggestion on the marking of the bowstring. Sometimes I have a tendency to yank it very quickly into the cocked position and not keep the same pressure on each side. I was just thinking about this yesterday as I was helping my son practice. I believe I will go home tonight and put a mark on the string. Thanks for the tip.


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