# Articulated streamers?



## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

I've been thinking about playing around with some articulated streamers, and i have one major question that i can't seem to find the answer to? What is the most common material that is used to join the two pieces together? I'm a little dead in the water here, no pun intended, so any suggestions and tips are greatly appreciated...maybe even some basic recipes that are good starters?


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## Flymaker (Jan 24, 2013)

I use heavy mono....like 15lb or so.


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## flytyer (Jan 3, 2005)

I've used 20 lb fly line backing to make a few.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

Flymaker said:


> I use heavy mono....like 15lb or so.


What kind of action does the mono give the fly? It isn't too stiff? Cause i have loads of mono laying around, and i thought about that.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

flytyer said:


> I've used 20 lb fly line backing to make a few.


In that respect, would braided line work just as well then?


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## Crawdude (Feb 6, 2013)

I use 7 strand 'Beadalon'. It's bead stringing wire that you can find in the beading section of a craft store like Michael's. I have a 60' roll that should last for all eternity. All the cool tiers use Beadalon.










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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

Tackle-addict said:


> I use 7 strand 'Beadalon'. It's bead stringing wire that you can find in the beading section of a craft store like Michael's. I have a 60' roll that should last for all eternity. All the cool tiers use Beadalon.
> 
> View attachment 89810
> 
> ...


I see, I'll have to check it out..i wanna be a cool tier.  thank you guys for the replies!


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

BigBadBrad said:


> In that respect, would braided line work just as well then?


I use Cabelas Ripcord braid. I also use it to put a loop on the back of some of my EHC to attach tippet and a small PTN to.


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## kingofamberley (Jul 11, 2012)

I would like to try tying some articulated streamers. Does anyone have any specific patterns that they like/are easy and simple enough for a first try?


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

kingofamberley said:


> I would like to try tying some articulated streamers. Does anyone have any specific patterns that they like/are easy and simple enough for a first try?


That's the problem I'm having is finding simple patterns to try


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## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

I just started tying some "game changers" that use articulated shanks


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## allbraid (Jan 14, 2012)

I am not a fly tyer but if you look at my post on here "Pike Flies" the bottom 2 in the pic are articulated. Might give you and idea of a pattern. Tied by my father. He used heavy mono to connect.


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## Crawdude (Feb 6, 2013)

BigBadBrad said:


> That's the problem I'm having is finding simple patterns to try


It seems like everyone pulls out all the stops with articulated flies! I've tied these...

[ame]http://youtu.be/80ipdH8Gs2o[/ame]

I think it's a straight forward fly. It could easily be made simpler by leaving out some materials I suppose. I like ripping off how the fly is made articulated into some of my own creations. For ease of tying you could link up two wooly buggers or some such creation into an articulated fly.


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

Used just about everything but always like using 7 strand stainless coated wire and craft store Beadalon is good value.

Depending on the size and species I am fishing for dictate what I use.


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## gahannafly (Aug 11, 2012)

Try a articulated wooly bugger in olive? Back fly like size 6 or 4 hook and front fly size 4 or 2 hook. I do not put a tail on the front fly. The bead alon recommended earlier seems like the stuff to use-I have been using 20# mono. Also, I bought some olive and red glass beads from the bead store-very small but the will accept the 20# line going through their opening two times and we $2.00 for a lifetime supply of each color-much cheaper than what I found for fly tying glass beads.
Here is a video I found


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## Crawdude (Feb 6, 2013)

These are on my to do list. I haven't tied or fished them yet but I've heard wonderful things about this fly. Amazing video too.

[ame]http://youtu.be/hbLG30hU3fI[/ame]


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

Been tying Deceiver style patterns for years and also do an articulated muskie version with more profound looks. By far my favorite style even over all the new patterns I have seen.


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

Yakphisher said:


> Used just about everything but always like using 7 strand stainless coated wire and craft store Beadalon is good value.
> 
> Depending on the size and species I am fishing for dictate what I use.


This is on the money. It depends, the simple and complex answer all in one. For some musky flies I tied for a few guys, I used single strand stainless steel, which is heavy duty stuff. For most bass streamers, I'll use either 50lb PowerPro braid or Beadalon. For smaller carp patterns I articulate, which have the rear hook point clipped, I use 3X tippet material or even a length of 210den gel spun Ultra Thread. With no hook point on the back, the articulated end of those flies won't be put under much (if any) stress, so you can get away with lighter stuff to join the sections.


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## Rockyraccoon (Jun 19, 2012)

I've been using a lot of Senyo's Intruder Hook Wire for my articulated streamers.

It works well and is strong, and stiff enough that your connecting loop will remain open (allowing greater motion). 

You can find it here http://www.caddisflyshop.com/senyos-intruder-trailer-hook-wire.html, but you can also google it and find it in a lot of places and your local flyshop can probably get it for you if you ask.

Before this wire, I typically used heavy mono because it would loop well and remain open. 

As for what to tie.....use your imagination. Game Changers are pretty sick and will require two wire loops (if your adding the trailing stinger hook) but they take a very long time to tie. As mentioned, a jointed woolly bugger is a great pattern, and a lot of Kelley Gallop's patterns are jointed and good producers.

Don't overlook larger, jointed nymphs either. Jointed damsel fly nymphs and stoneflies can be deadly.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

From what I've seen, beadalon is the way to go. 



Rockyraccoon said:


> I've been using a lot of Senyo's Intruder Hook Wire for my articulated streamers.
> 
> It works well and is strong, and stiff enough that your connecting loop will remain open (allowing greater motion).
> 
> ...


This intruder hook wire sounds good too though, I'll have to check that out. How do you tie your connecting loops? Is there a certain way to keep it open for good action?


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## Rockyraccoon (Jun 19, 2012)

I first tie in the wire near the back of the hook and wrap my thread over the wire toward the hook eye. Then I will double the wire back to the bend of the hook and wrap to the bend tightly with thread. I will then give the thread a coat of zap a gap or CCG to lock it all together.

Now, run the wire through the hook eye of your rear section and loop the wire back onto the rear of the fly in the vise. Make the loop as big or as small as you like but leave it big enough for the rear hook to move freely. Wrap your thread over the wire at the bend and your wire loop is done. 

Now, pull your wire forward to the eye and wrap it tightly with thread. Take the wire and double it over toward the bend......wrap it tight with thread. Again, glue it with zap a gap or CCG. Now you can cut the wire and finish your fly.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

Thanks, rocky. I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work and maybe post some pictures and you all will have to let me know what you think. When i was younger, i never thought i would get excited about this kinda stuff. That's the cool thing about fly fishing, other than the obvious. I like meeting so many cool people, and learning from more experienced guys. Thank you all for your help!


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

midge hatch


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## riverKing (Jan 26, 2007)

I had to jump in on this thread.

Mono and braid have some uses but in the end neither are as good as wire. Mono while it holds a loop well does not handle teeth well, even trout fishing the mono eventually weakens. Braid doesnt hold a loop well and tends to tangle more often unless you are using a bunch of beads to hold it tight and then you dont have the action you are looking for. 
For wire, I used beadalon for a long time but I have had it fail dozens of times and cannot use it anymore. Though if you want to risk the back hook breaking off on a musky or giant brown be my guest, I have even had the back hook break off casting after repeated use. The senyo wire is actually a great alternative for trout flies, fairly cheap and easy to get. For musky flies I use 40 or 50lb knotable wire or an articulated shank lashed to the hook.


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## Crawdude (Feb 6, 2013)

riverKing said:


> I had to jump in on this thread.
> 
> Mono and braid have some uses but in the end neither are as good as wire. Mono while it holds a loop well does not handle teeth well, even trout fishing the mono eventually weakens. Braid doesnt hold a loop well and tends to tangle more often unless you are using a bunch of beads to hold it tight and then you dont have the action you are looking for.
> For wire, I used beadalon for a long time but I have had it fail dozens of times and cannot use it anymore. Though if you want to risk the back hook breaking off on a musky or giant brown be my guest, I have even had the back hook break off casting after repeated use. The senyo wire is actually a great alternative for trout flies, fairly cheap and easy to get. For musky flies I use 40 or 50lb knotable wire or an articulated shank lashed to the hook.


Thanks for the feedback riverKing. I never would have guessed Beadalon would break. I'll have to check out the senyo wire. I need to work on catching bigger fish!


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

Thanks river king! Sounds like the Senyo wire is the way to go for my trout fishing fun! Lots of useful tips! Thanks everybody


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## crkwader (Nov 7, 2008)

I have some 40LB orange backing laying around the house and I use that, but instead of just tying it into the pattern I coat the backing with either sally hansens or zap-a-gap. It adds a lot of durability to the extension. But if I am going to chase some toothy critters I will reluctantly use Senyos wire.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

crkwader said:


> I have some 40LB orange backing laying around the house and I use that, but instead of just tying it into the pattern I coat the backing with either sally hansens or zap-a-gap. It adds a lot of durability to the extension. But if I am going to chase some toothy critters I will reluctantly use Senyos wire.


Why reluctantly?


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## crkwader (Nov 7, 2008)

BigBadBrad said:


> Why reluctantly?


I feel that senyos wire kills a lot of the action of the fly, especially when tying it into an articulated patterns. Maybe its just me and I am being highly critical of the stuff, but it is just my opinion.


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

riverKing said:


> I had to jump in on this thread.
> 
> Mono and braid have some uses but in the end neither are as good as wire. Mono while it holds a loop well does not handle teeth well, even trout fishing the mono eventually weakens. Braid doesnt hold a loop well and tends to tangle more often unless you are using a bunch of beads to hold it tight and then you dont have the action you are looking for.
> For wire, I used beadalon for a long time but I have had it fail dozens of times and cannot use it anymore. Though if you want to risk the back hook breaking off on a musky or giant brown be my guest, I have even had the back hook break off casting after repeated use. The senyo wire is actually a great alternative for trout flies, fairly cheap and easy to get. For musky flies I use 40 or 50lb knotable wire or an articulated shank lashed to the hook.


Musky and other toothy critters change the game entirely. Bass aren't going to be biting through 50lb PowerPro and I haven't seen any issues using that as far as action or durability goes on bass patterns. Mono would be a horrible choice for any trailing hook on a pattern that's likely to be eaten by a big predator, but when it's used on a small articulated carp pattern with the trailing hook snipped, not only does it make perfect sense it's foolish and wasteful to use anything else. It's not going to take abuse, it doesn't have to hold a fish, and it's not going to be hit by teeth...so why use wire when there's better alternatives? That is interesting with Beadalon failing, though. First I have heard of that, and it's a scary thought.


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

I have never ever had an issue using power pro! That is some good ****.

Highly unlikely because your tippet or hook will bend before anything else fails.

Mono is PITA cause it so thick and has some slippery properties to it. I use hard mono for leader (muskies) hand shake connectors for bite guard but its 60 or 80lb test.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

I know that i use power pro for my regular set up for catfish, and that stuff is tougher than tarzan's feet. Considering everyone has their own opinions, it looks like I'll be trying out a few different things to see which i like best...which is fine with me, cause that just means more time at the vise.


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## Crawdude (Feb 6, 2013)

BigBadBrad said:


> which is fine with me, cause that just means more time at the vise.


Never a bad thing!


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

For non muskie or shark flies i been using #5 hard ss wire with a loop bend for rear hook. 
Super strong and does not retard the action like anything else i have used.


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## BigBadBrad (Feb 10, 2012)

Tackle-addict said:


> Never a bad thing!


Never a bad thing at all!







Yakphisher said:


> For non muskie or shark flies i been using #5 hard ss wire with a loop bend for rear hook.
> Super strong and does not retard the action like anything else i have used.


Does it form easy?


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)




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## AtticaFish (Nov 23, 2008)

I see a major discrepancy in the patterns that call them selves articulated.

Some use a free swinging hook behind a piece of wire (or clipped hook) and the only tied material is on the front wire shank. I would consider this to be similar to a "stinger" hook. If the back hook is bare with no material.... does not matter at all if the connection is flexible, it just a plain hook swinging around. My preference would honestly be to use a stiffer connection with less swing to prevent unwanted snags.

If the pattern uses material on BOTH a forward shank AND the back hook, then you need the flexibility to allow separate action between front and the back. 

I personally use a pretty light weight tippet, so use of anything over 6 or 8 lb mono is overkill for my needs. Braid is an excellent flexible option. Adjust your connections to your needs/wants. Just my 2 pennies.


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