# What kind of Broadheads do you use????



## catfish_hunter (May 31, 2005)

I was just wondering what all you more experienced bow hunters think the best broadheads are and why....I first started with Viper Venom Broadheads they looked sweet but I never gut a good shot on a deer and lost 2 of them and still have one but I switched over to the Allen 125 Grain 3 blade broadhead and that is what I got my button buck with.....Just wondering what everone else uses...


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## BassBlaster (Jun 8, 2006)

Well I am of the less experienced class, but I'll give my 2 pennies. I did alot of research on broadheads before I started bowhunting. I found that a regular old 2 blade cut on contact gives you the best penatration but do not fare well against bone. The best against bone is the chisel point. But if you think about it, if you make the ideal shot there is no bone to contact and most all broadheads on the market can handle a shoot through shot as long as they are kept sharp. I also found that basically every mechanical on the market has a chance of not opening if the shot is not perfect. I chose to hunt with the three blade Muzzy's. I can't give you any info from experience because I have not taken my first bow kill yet, but I am confident that when I do that the Muzzy's won't let me down.


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## littleking (Jun 25, 2005)

used montec g5's until:

1) first arrow went 10 feet then went straigt into the ground
2) perfect quartering away shot and barely penetrated


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

We have had countless discussions on broadhead selection on here and I will try to reflect on what many have expressed within those threads. 

A lot of discussion revolves around which broadhead shoot better groups than others but any properly tuned broadhead will fly true and thus you should be able to achieve good groups with any brand provided that you tune them properly. Conversely, any brand will fly like crap if they are not tuned properly. Lundy posted a great explanatation of this in a thread a short time back. I will simply quote him as I could not say it any better.



Lundy said:


> Your issues with broadhead flight could be a bunch of different bow tune issues, but it is pretty easy to eliminate the arrows as the source of you problems.
> 
> If you are shooting aluminum arrows with inserts that are hot melted into the end of the arrows it's a very easy check and fix,
> 
> ...


The thread that this discussion is from is 

What's better?


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## WallyGator (Jun 12, 2006)

Thunderhead 100's with crossbow. Simple, yet very effective. Used them now for 8 years. Never had an issue. At 20 yards with a rest I can put them in a 2 inch pattern. Just my 2 cents.


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## Fish-N-Fool (Apr 12, 2004)

Muzzy 3 blade 100's - have killed many deer with these and never a problem.
In fact, I'll never shoot another broadhead. I have put a couple shots (1 in particular) too far forward - right in the shoulder blade and still made it through the shoulder blade and into the vitals both times. Neither deer made it more than 35 yards (these were mature deer with a large body).


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## Blaze6784 (Nov 3, 2006)

Thunderhead 125s. Never shot a deer with em, but then again haven't really bow hunted much. May drop to a 100 grain broadhead next year and shoot carbons. But for now, aluminum arrows and thunderhead 125s.

Chris


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

I think it is important to note that the broadhead weight should be dependent upon what you need to achieve a balanced arrow. A broadhead that is too heavy or even too light will not fly well. Here is some info copied from another website about front of center (FOC) balance point calculation.


from Bowsite.com said:


> *Weighing in on `FOC'
> *
> A lot of bowhunters have trouble with broadheads because they're unaware of the front- of-center (FOC) balance point of their arrow. Very simply stated, FOC is the point on the arrow at which the fletch uses leverage to correct arrow flight. The further forward the FOC, the longer the `lever' the fletch has to work with and the easier its job.
> The general FOC recommendation is 12 to 15% for broadheads (compared to 8-11% for field points). Finger shooters, and those shooting shafts less than 26-inches in length should lean toward the 15% figure. This is because shorter arrows are inherently less stable, and finger shooters, once again, need a little extra help to correct the normal arrow wobble upon release.
> ...


 The website that this came from is Perfect Broadhead Flight.


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

Keep in mind that this balance point is affected by not only the broadhead but by every component of the arrow. (arrow length, fletch weight, nock weight, arrow's weight) This is a very easy thing to test for although the calculation screen above may look intimidating. Here is an example.

Suppose you are shooting 29" arrows. If you take a pencil any find the point that the arrow balances on it and mark that point. Next measure from the nock up to it and say you end up with 18.5". Then the calculation is as follows.

(18.5 / 29 - .50) * 100


Or

18.5 /29 = .6379 

.6379 - .50 = .1379

.1379 8 100 = 13.79%

13.79% is right in the middle of the acceptable range (12-15%). If your number falls outside of the range you should to change something to get there. If the number is above 15% then your nose is too heavy. You could go to a lighter broadhead or perhaps a heavier arrow or even a slightly weighted nock. If it is below the 12% then perhaps a heavier broadhead or lighter arrow. (assuming that the arrow still has the spline strength.) You can also change from feathers to vanes, 3" to 4" length or vice versa. So as you can see there are a lot of things to consider when establishing a weight. Therefore I would suggest that anyone who may be considering a change in broadhead at this point of the year should definitely stay with the weight they have been shooting provided that they have been shooting those with good results. During the season is not the time to make any major overhauls.


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## ErieAngler (Apr 15, 2006)

Monotecs, just shot a deer quartering to last Thursday. Stiff wind, 30-35 yards, went completely through the ribs, got one lung, liver and out the other side. I've never had a problem with these arrows, nor have my friends.


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## Fish4Food (Mar 20, 2006)

Magnus Stingers


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## RiverWader (Apr 1, 2006)

I use Grim Reapor broadheads . They were givin to me 2 years ago to try and never had any trouble with them at all.


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## flypilot33 (Feb 9, 2006)

I would go with muzzy. They are in my opinion the only way to go. But there are actually a couple otrher good blades.


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## chase845 (Nov 2, 2005)

I'm impressed bkr, I've never thought to check that, thanks for the tip


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## bkr43050 (Apr 5, 2004)

chase845 said:


> I'm impressed bkr, I've never thought to check that, thanks for the tip


Don't be impressed with me. Most of what I have learned about archery was learned through reading and the internet is a great tool for doing so. Make good use of the Google searches and you never know what kind of useful information you will come up with.


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## Procraftboats21 (Apr 6, 2004)

muzzys

100 grain 3 blades


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## Papascott (Apr 22, 2004)

I used to shoot muzzy 100 three blades, they are great broadheads. I am shooting K-mart brand mechanicals. They are almost indentical to the rocket arrowheads, which are my farorites but hard for me to find. The blue light specials are only 9 and change for a set of three and come with extra rubber bands. I really like being able to have a BIG cutting area to slice up as much possible for a hopefully quicker kill. My all time favorites were the rocket arrowheads BuckBlaster. They were 110 grains with a 2.75 cutting diameter!

I see alot of people saying they have had mechanicals not open. I want to know the style, rubber band, no band, etc etc. I have killed alot of deer with both mechanicals and fixed blades both. The only time I thought my broadhead did not open was when I first shot a deer with one, I pulled the arrow out of a doe and the blades were all closed! Duh I soon realized that when pulling it out they just slid back into place. 

Scott


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## halfrack (Oct 13, 2004)

Well after shooting a nice buck tuesday with slick tricks 100grn magnums 1/8 that is all I will use. They fly true and hit hard.


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## Header (Apr 14, 2004)

Have been using ThunderHeads 125g for the last several years and have taken 6 deer with them. They sure do make a large hole, both sides. Used to use Wasps but I hit a tree with one and of course the point tip came off. Two piece heads do NOT hold up well.


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## crankus_maximus (Apr 14, 2004)

Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain. Hard to beat. Very hard to beat.


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## BuckEyeBigBuck13 (Oct 7, 2006)

IM trowing the Thuder Heads 125gr.... they fly great....
Dan


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