# most accurate broadhead ???????



## fatkid

okay her is the deal I have been a muzzy man all my live . they are great broadheads but I just got a new bow I am shooting easton carbon infused arrows . I am shooting touching groups at 30 yrds and softball size at forty with field tips . at 30 yrds with the muzzys i am shooting pie plate groups. so I siad well hell lets try those mechanical ones my dad has shot spitfires for years so i got some of his and they shot low but a alright group . my buddy I was shotting with siad here try these just got them . They were grim reapers so i tried the practice broadhead it was dead on I thought sweat thats what i am getting . But back in the day I read that some practice broadhead fly differant than the real braodhead and man did they . so my question is does any one shoot as good as groups with there field points as there broad heads with with out resighting in your bow. I will probably go with the spitfires and resight in my bow but just though i would ask. I am not looking for witch arrow cuts better because I am a furm believer that a well placed arrow will do the job


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## BigBag

I am a big fan of the Rage broadhead. I do not have to change my sights, and they group very well.


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## Boondock77

To answer your question simply... nope. any adjustments to an arrow is going to adjust it's flight... and when you sight your bow off a certain arrow combo/setting, any changes to it; will affect overall accuracy on the bow... 

Mechanical heads are designed to lessen that difference but any fixed blade is going to fly differently. I'd advised buying some practice blades to get the best results, even then shots over 30yds is just going to take time to get the feel for the arrow's flight. 

A good brand of fixed blades if you are looking to go fixed, that work pretty well for me and fly about as good as your gonna get for a fixed blade from point adjusted sights are the Aftershock archery maniac broadheads(imho)


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## BassBlaster

When making the switch to mechanicals, accuracy isnt the only thing you should be concerned with. Everything mechanical in this world is subject to failure and will fail at some point. Lots of people shoot mechanicals with success but do you really wanna take a chance of a failure on a once in a lifetime buck? I dont. If I was ever gonna shoot mechanicals, the only thing on the market that I am aware of that is pretty much fail proof is the NAP Bloodrunner. It still has something like a 1" cutting diameter even if it fails to open.


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## Skunkedagain

Slick Tricks. They are a 4 blade fixed design. And they are made to impact the same spot as a practice tip. Started using them last year. One shot and one passthrough with a 20 yard tracking job. Google them.


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## TPaco214

i always practice with the exact head I will be hunting with. I personally use Muzzy 3-blade 125 gr on my carbon arrows. Never had a problem with them. Close groups usually at 20-25 yds. I have 3-4 Muzzy heads with the regular sharp blades that I practice with. The blades are dull from hitting the target- but I figure the effects of a dull vs sharp blade are negligible. Personally, I just don't like leaving anything to chance. In 10 yrs of bowhunting, I've only killed one deer in my life, and it was a buck of a lifetime. When I drew on the deer, my sole focus was on getting a clean draw and target spot, and waiting for the right moment to let loose. My muzzy completely pierced his heart, after my arrow impacted exactly where I was aiming. Basically, I want equipment performance to be the last thing on my mind as Im drawing on a deer. I practice with the exact heads I hunt with to ensure that when I draw on a deer, muscle memory and target focus are the only things going on. Good luck.


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## M.Magis

Any broadhead will group with field points* if the person takes the time to tune everything properly*. Mechanicals are fine, but to use them because of accuracy reasons is nothing but a band aid covering either the inability to tune a bow properly, or just laziness. I've never shot a broadhead that I couldn't get to shoot with field points, and that includes large glue on broadheads. And I'm no expert.


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## BaddFish

I used to use 3-Blade 100 gr Muzzy's for years... always had to re-adjust the sights when switching from field points...

Last year I switched to Rage- mid-year... Didn't have to change a thing and shot a doe broadside at 40yds... I never had the confidence with Muzzy's to shoot over 25-30 yds- even though I was solid out to 40 with field tips.


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## big red

practice with what your going to hunt with.as stated before.i shoot muzzy 125 3blade on alum.2317 xx75.i tune my blades to each arrow to make sure they spin test correctly,then practice with them.just before season i replace the blades with brand new ones.take a couple of shots then re sharpen them and hunt.


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## crittergitter

I have been all over the map with Broadheads:

Muzzy
Spitfire
Thunderhead
Rage

So, this year I am going with Slick Tricks and I am never looking back. So long as they continue to make them, these will be my BH of choice. I have no questions about their performance..........none.


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## ErieAngler

Slick tricks all the way :d


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## Lewis

I swear by the old Wasp Cam Lok fixed blade broadheads.
I have been using these things for over 25 years.
Great accuracy and 99% pass throughs.


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## bkr43050

Slick tricks and Wac 'ems are the brands that I use. But as others have said any broadhead will work if the bow and the arrow/broadhead are properly tuned. I think what I have run in to more often with problems is the insert not being seating square and lined up properly. What you end up with is an arrow the is off-balance which will have a real effect. While the broadheads I use now do not eliminate that factor it does help to minimize it some due to the compact nature of the BH's. I do still however spin balance them.


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## sam kegg

I always use muzzy but im interested in the slick tricks


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## powerstrokin73

I love the ways Slick Tricks fly with Easton Axis ST arrows.


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## wildman

Razorbacks!!!!!!


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## pj4wd

I'm not gonna claim muzzy 100gr. 3 blades to be the most accurate broadhead but they fly great outta my bow. I really like the muzzy practice blades, get the same flight and seems a little easier to pull broadheads out of the blocks or Mckenzies when practicing.


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## Mushijobah

Never had a problem with G5 Montec...not going to stroke them off like others are doing...but I continue buying them year after year if that means anything


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## lil goose

I have been bow hunting long enough to remember when expandable broadheads were illegal! but back then the bows with a hunting set up were lucky to hit 250fps. They was much easier to tune and much more forgiving than todays bows at 300+ fps. I used to shoot thunderheads religiously until i got my new bow 3yrs ago in my opinion you can go wrong shooting grim reapers! I tried both two blade and three blade rage three blade was ok two blade wasnt impressed! Grim reapers have yet to let me down! Just remember with todays speeds your form is very critical so if you choose fixed broadheads over expandables practice with them! There is no doubt either will do the job but expandables are more forgiving!


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## Lundy

M.Magis said:


> Any broadhead will group with field points* if the person takes the time to tune everything properly*. Mechanicals are fine, but to use them because of accuracy reasons is nothing but a band aid covering either the inability to tune a bow properly, or just laziness. I've never shot a broadhead that I couldn't get to shoot with field points, and that includes large glue on broadheads. And I'm no expert.


Fatkid,

The above it exactly right.

Guys go to mechanicals because it serves to mask problems. They don't fix the problem just hide them.

If you broadheads don't GROUP as well as your field points you have issues. I have never been concerned about slightly different impact points from field tips to broadheads. I hunt with broadheads and my sights are adjusted accordingly. 

Read this from way back when and ask away with any more questions. This was posted to address crossbow issues but applies to any arrow





Your issues with broadhead flight could be a bunch of different bow tune issues, but it is pretty easy to eliminate the arrows as the source of your problems.

If you are shooting aluminum arrows with inserts that are hot melted into the end of the arrows it's a very easy check and fix,

Put the tip of the broadhead down on a piece of glass or other hard smooth surface. Spin the arrow as fast as you can, does the broadhead wobble? If it does, and it most likely does if they have never been tuned, take a propane torch and heat the end of the arrow just enough to allow you to turn the broadhead and insert inside the shaft. Rotate the insert by turning the broadhead (wear a leather glove to protect your hands from the blades and heat) in he direction to tighten the broadhead. This will spin the insert. Turn it 1/4 turn and spin test again. repeat this process until you find the sweet spot that the broadhead has no wobble during your spin test. Repeat this process for all of your arrows.

If you tune a dozen shafts and broadheads you will most likely end up with one or two that no matter how many time you adjust them they never will spin perfect. I mark these and use them for practice. I number all of my arrows based upon the spin test keeping the absolute best just for shooting a deer.

Why is necessary and what does it actually do? The inserts are not a press fit and have some tolerances from the OD to the ID of the arrow. They are not always perfectly straight when installed and you can and do have larger hot melt deposits on one side of the insert than the other. The heating and rotating process, and checking by spinning, eliminates those variables.

Why is it so important to arrow flight?. An arrow is meant to be stabilized and steered by the vanes. If you are a broadhead (fixed blade) that is not true to the centerline of the arrow the overcenter rotation detracts from the ability of the vanes to do their intended function. The broadhead is trying to do the steering and groups will not be good. This is where a mechanical broadhead shines. With the less surface area to act as control surfaces (steering) they are much less effected by out of tune issues, both bow and arrow. The out of tune issues still exist, but their impact is reduced by the smaller profile.

Add one more issue that are inherent to crossbows. Most crossbows shoot a straight fletch or very minimal helical fletch. remember that the fletching is designed to stabilize and steer the arrow. A helical fletch that is most commonly used on compounds and stick bows spins the arrow during flight to provide maximum stabilization, much like a tight spiral on a football. If the control of the fetching is being overridden by the broadhead the arrow can and will go all over the place. That is why careful consideration needs to be made when choosing the best fletching to match your desired broadhead. A compound shooter shooting a release aid and a mechanical broadhead can shoot a pretty small fletching and even less helical. A compound shooter shooting with his fingers and using a large fixed blade broadhead will require much larger fletching and more helical to control the arrow. Your arrow must be controlled by the fletching! The broadhead manufacturers started making most broadheads vented blade broadheads a bunch of year ago to reduce the control surfaces. You could shoot a huge,non vented blade broadhead, and never tune the broadheads and get very consistent groups, BUT you would need to shoot huge fletching to ensure the arrow control is from the fletching, not the broadhead. It is much easier and more practical to just tune you set up

Because most crossbows use a straight fletch and can't depend on a helical (spin) fletch for added stabilization it's even more important that the broadheads be as perfectly tuned (lined up with the centerline of the shaft) as possible to prevent the broadhead from determining the flight path versus the fletching. Out of tune broadheads account for the vast majority of broahead group issues, especially with crossbows.

One last point, lining your blades up with your fletching serves no purpose at all. It doesn't matter where your blades are in relation to your fletching, The fletching steers and the broadhead is just along for the ride, or should be anyway.

This is why I posted earlier that many will go to mechanicals, it helps mask other tuning issues but does not eliminate the underlying root causes to begin with.

I hope this makes some sense to you.

Kim


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## Lundy

This talked about carbons and epoxy

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=58214&highlight=tune


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## Lundy

It may be time to revisit what fletch on an arrow is there for.

Fletching on an arrow is there for one purpose, it is to stabilize the flight of the arrow through imparted rotation. The fletch must provide the steering control surfaces for an arrow to overcome any influence on flight that the broadhead may provide.
An arrow must spin to be achieve maximum stability in flight. This same principal is why there is rifling in a gun barrel. Ever see a football thrown without a spiral and how well it flies through the air?

Today many are going to smaller and smaller fletching to reach maximum speeds but they are sacrificing some control and forgiveness of the bow setup. Some even try and shot straight fletching (crossbows) and wonder why their field tips group ok but their broadheads dont. 

If we assume that a bow is properly tuned and yet the broadheads dont group as well as the field tips it only leaves one culprit, the arrow tune. Once you have added a broadhead you have changed the flight characteristic of the arrow. The broadhead has more control surface area and tries to steer the arrow. If you dont have enough fletch to overcome this arrows will not group. The more the broadhead is out of balance the more the problem (larger grouping)is magnified. Always number your arrows with broadheads and you will notice that a couple are always grouping with each other and the others are all over the place. Spin check them and you'll find that those two are closer to being balanced than the rest. This assumes you have enough helical fletch to perform it's purpose

An entire industry has developed over the years to address out of tune arrows. The expandable broadhead does nothing more than reduce the out of tune influence on an arrow. They in no way eliminate the tune issue, the just minimize the tune problem. If you played with tops as a kid you know it spins on a centerline point and it spins in a stable rotation for a long time. What would happen if you bent the tip of the top just a little to be off center or taped a dime to one side of the top to provide an unbalanced condition? It is the same with a spinning arrow. If everything is in alignment and balanced each and every arrow goes to the same place, there is nothing to prevent them from going to the same spot. Isnt bow shooting all about repeatability? Same draw, same anchor point, same bow arm, same pin placement, same release, same follow through, and arrows all impact the same place. It is exactly the same with broadheads, all, if tuned and balanced the same all impact the same point.

What is the best flying broadhead? That is an open ended question that merits a bunch of questions to the asker more than one definitive answer that doesnt really exist other than to maybe say All of them

Anyone who still may have doubts about arrow tuning or the influence of fletching please try and shoot an arrow at 20 yds with no fletching. This is how I, and many others tuned our bows for many, many years. If and when you can ever get a bare shaft to fly and impact close to your fletched arrows at 20 yds you have a pretty good bow tune going. PS You will probably break a dozen or more shafts doing this, even you guys shooting perfect little round holes paper testing.

My opinion


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## tpitski

i agree, g5 montoc flys really well out of my bow and i have no intention of changing.


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## lakota

I like the Magnus Stinger 2 blade. I find them very easy to tune, they are very easy to get a scary sharp edge on and then there is Magnus's unconditional lifetime warranty. You break it and they will replace it. And they are a true cut on contact design.


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## ufaquaoiler

im givin the 100 grain muzzy 4 blades (1" diameter) a try this year and they flew exactly like my field points out of both my compound bow (290-300fps) and my crossbow (320fps).


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## k_marshall

Magnus buzzcuts fly the best for me even when other heads are off


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