# Rod purchasing question...



## dadofalltrades (Apr 6, 2010)

I am closing my first real estate deal tomorrow and using part of the money to finally purchase my first fly rod(s). I understand this may be the beginning of the end of my daughters' college funds, but it's something I have wanted to do for a long time and I am taking the plunge. My question is not so much about specific rod(s), but rather ranges. I live in Central Ohio and do most of my fishing on local rivers/streams. I hope to get up to Erie for some steelhead trips and am hoping to get to WV more for my favorite gamefish...smallmouth. My question is this. Is there a rod that I can use for all of the above or am I better off getting like an 8-weight for the steelhead and big smallies and a 3-weight for local streams? I went to Cabela's and they were pushing me toward a 5-weight, but I'm wondering if that's not too big for streams and too small for steelies. Thoughts?


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## Andrew S. (May 22, 2010)

dadofalltrades said:


> I am closing my first real estate deal tomorrow and using part of the money to finally purchase my first fly rod(s). I understand this may be the beginning of the end of my daughters' college funds, but it's something I have wanted to do for a long time and I am taking the plunge. My question is not so much about specific rod(s), but rather ranges. I live in Central Ohio and do most of my fishing on local rivers/streams. I hope to get up to Erie for some steelhead trips and am hoping to get to WV more for my favorite gamefish...smallmouth. My question is this. Is there a rod that I can use for all of the above or am I better off getting like an 8-weight for the steelhead and big smallies and a 3-weight for local streams? I went to Cabela's and they were pushing me toward a 5-weight, but I'm wondering if that's not too big for streams and too small for steelies. Thoughts?


I'd be interested to what others have to say about this. I don't fish Ohio yet, but I fish all sorts of other waters and have for years. I myself go for the even rod weights: 4, 6, 8, 10, because that covers my bases well (a similar spacing in the odds would work just as well). My father has a 5 and an 8 for all his Indiana fishing, and this works very well. The 5 weight is light enough to make panfish fun, but can still toss small weighted flies, smaller bass bugs, etc. and when necessary, he can go with the 8.

I tend to think of a 4 as the smallest "practical" rod weight, by which I mean it can still handle a reasonable range of flies and wind conditions. Since I don't fish very small streams, I've just never felt a 3 would be much of an advantage over a 4, or even a 5.

My gut feeling, for what you described, is that if you're going to get two rods for the uses you described, consider perhaps a 4 and 7 or maybe a 5 and 7, or perhaps 5 and 8. To me, a 6 is the perfect smallmouth rod weight, but a lot of people like the 7. Either will throw bass flies and work for steelhead, but the 8 would make some of the really big bass flies easier to toss.

Now, if you're really thinking you want to get by with just one rod, I'd go with a 6 weight. Overkill for tiny fish, of course, but I catch a lot of large sunfish and bluegills on my 6 when bass fishing, and they're still plenty fun. And I fish that same 6 weight for smallmouth, largemouth, carp, and even saltwater bluefish and stripers. A 6 is a really good all around rod weight, in my personal opinion.

But, those are just my own personal opinions.


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

I use a 6wt for steels and a 3wt is a good rod weight to have also. 8wt for steels is really overkill IMO
Go to MRO and they can set you up really well the right way. 

I can not live without my 3wts!


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## Andrew S. (May 22, 2010)

Out of curiosity, what do you see as the advantages a 3 weight has over a 4 or even 5?

I've never owned or fished one, so I don't know. It is presentation? Or just that they make smaller fish more fun?


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

More fun for sure! A 3wt will haul anything in even 26 inch browns and bows. If you plan on using small dries then it be way to go as they will protect tippets much better. When you are you planning on being back in Ohio? When you do we can meet on the waters somewhere and I will let you test out a few 3wts. Only then you will know why I suggests having a 3wt.


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

I do not have a ton of steelhead experience, but I was a little nervous about using my 7wt after hearing about people using 8-10wt rods for them. I felt like I could have easily handled most of the fish on lighter rods, but I was told the fight in the spring fish is nothing like in the fall, also. I'll carry my 5wt as a backup and feel confident I can land most fish on it.

I stagger my rods in the odd number, I have a 3wt, 5wt, and 7wt. In my opinion, the 3wt is a perfect rod for most panfish and small stream/small fly applications. It's my main small creek WV rod, and I like to play with the bluegills on it. The 5wt is my "tweener" rod, or "do everything" rod. I can sling a tiny dry on it or chuck a weighted streamer for bass and crappies. It's really my favorite crappie rod, I fly fish for them pretty hard in spring, and I also use it on smallmouth when I won't be throwing real large/bulky flies. The 7wt is my largemouth bass and steelhead rod, mainly. I also used it on smallies in the past when throwing large flies, and when casting to smallmouth buffalo in the Hocking (because they look to average 5-6lbs, as big as 15lbs).

I think a 5wt or 6wt is a great all-purpose rod if you are looking to get just one fly rod. It's what I started with, then I branched out from there.

As for your daughter, tell her to study hard and get an academic scholarship so it's less of a burden on you!


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## dadofalltrades (Apr 6, 2010)

As I have three daughters! Thanks for advice...still not sure what to do. I just love ultralight spin-fishing so I'm thinking I will prefer going lighter on fly rods as well. Given the types of fishing I'm prone to doing, I'm thinking I just might go with the 3wt and maybe get a 7wt later. Is there any difference in learning to cast on a 3wt vs say a 5 or 6wt?


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

dadofalltrades said:


> As I have three daughters! Thanks for advice...still not sure what to do. I just love ultralight spin-fishing so I'm thinking I will prefer going lighter on fly rods as well. Given the types of fishing I'm prone to doing, I'm thinking I just might go with the 3wt and maybe get a 7wt later. Is there any difference in learning to cast on a 3wt vs say a 5 or 6wt?


If you are learning to fly cast with a 3wt, my advice would be to make sure you are not trying to cast anything big or wind-resistant. If you are casting a dry fly or nymph or something small, I don't think it would be a huge issue. That's the one limitation, at least for me, with a smaller rod...can't cast something real big. I'm no world class caster, though. I have cast some small wooly buggers and zonkers with my 3wt, but it's more "chuck and duck" than a graceful cast!


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## Clayton (Oct 7, 2008)

I would go with a 5 or 6 weight first and expand from there. I love my 6 weight to death (fighting butts are awesome things to have when you need to drag in a huge steelie). And what was said earlier is true; little rods can land big fish. I've taken 26" browns on my 4 weight. Is it the best tool for it? No. Oh, I took an 8 lb carp out of the mad river on that rod too... Kinda surprised it's not broken 

However, rod size really only dictates how much fun the fight will be, and how big of a fly you can throw. Throwing an indicator nymph rig on a 3 weight is probably not going to be a ton of fun, and might be pretty frustrating. As will a heavy nymph. Get a middle of the road rod... or even better, pop in mad river outfitters and try a bunch!


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

Tell us more about your budget.


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## dadofalltrades (Apr 6, 2010)

I'm not going to be buying a $500 rod, I can assure you of that. But not trying to keep it under $100 either. Had planned on between $150-$250 for rod, reel and line.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

dadofalltrades said:


> I'm not going to be buying a $500 rod, I can assure you of that. But not trying to keep it under $100 either. Had planned on between $150-$250 for rod, reel and line.



If you're willing to wait & watch, Ebay is the way to go. 

I literally have thousands of dollars in rods & I have spent very, very little on them.

That is of course if you are comfortable buying used items. 

I just bought a $800 Thomas & Thomas saltwater rod for $149 buy it now...it was BRAND NEW with the plastic on the cork!


Here's a good one to watch. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160455579159&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT



And here's the last one I watched go by, then cried. Another $700+ rod selling for $160! Ouch!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140423951936&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

dadofalltrades said:


> I'm not going to be buying a $500 rod, I can assure you of that. But not trying to keep it under $100 either. Had planned on between $150-$250 for rod, reel and line.



In that price range, if you're buying new, you may want to look @ Temple Fork rods, I'm impressed by their value & performance.


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

I have picked up a couple of cheaper rods and they casts quite well as the more expensive rods or better. So there is no reason to spend big bucks on a outfit but the line you purchase is the most important though then the rod is second. I am a bargain hunter as I try as much to get a good deal on a rod and reel. 
BTW I will be using my 5wt for steels cause I know how to work the fish and bring it to net fairly quick. If I can catch a 24" bow on a 0wt SLT Sage on 5Xtippet then I know I can do it with a 5wt. I guess some rather play a steel into their backing and brag about how it got into their backing then rather bring the fish in and get it over with. I have broken most of my rods from the trees or carelessness and never on a fish except for my 6wt Predator which snapped on a 12 bass.. Redington has it now and studying why it busted like that and will surely get a replacement soon.


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

fallen513 said:


> In that price range, if you're buying new, you may want to look @ Temple Fork rods, I'm impressed by their value & performance.


I had a TiCr rod that sucked so bad, still the worse I had ever casted yet! 
But the other rods are great though. Just stay clear of fast action rods and you will be fine.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

I've only handled one on a couple occasions, never owned one & really put it through it's paces.

Never even touched a Sage either.

All Winston, T&T & Scott for me! I'm spoiled.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

YOU GOT 2 MINUTES BUY IT QUICK! 

http://cgi.ebay.com/St-Croix-Legend...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e253c062


That's going to be a good deal gone by for sure.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

I know you aren't going to be able to buy these (you aren't online) but just today I've seen numerous killer deals!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Powell-LG7-9045...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e253d270


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## dadofalltrades (Apr 6, 2010)

I stopped in at MRO today and they were showing me an Orvis combo ... 5wt 9'...rod, reel, line, case for around $200. Might go that route for my first rod to get it in hand and then start scanning ebay for the inevitable addiction that is to come.


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## Andrew S. (May 22, 2010)

Flyfish Dog said:


> I had a TiCr rod that sucked so bad, still the worse I had ever casted yet!
> But the other rods are great though. Just stay clear of fast action rods and you will be fine.


I have several of the Professional Series and like them a lot. I built a 10 wt on the TiCr blank, and I have to agree that it's just way too stiff. I use it to toss a 500 grain sinking line, which loads it well, but for "everyday" casting with typical 10 wt lines...no thanks. I wouldn't get that rod again.


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## wabi (Jun 14, 2008)

I have 3wt, 4wt, 5wt, 6wt and 8wt rods I fish with regularly. 
Most of my fishing is just going after panfish at the local lake, and the 3wt rods get most of that duty. But if I go after anything bigger I usually grab my 6wt Ross FlyStik these days. 

The FlyStik is plenty for the bass I go after (usually end up catching them in the 2-4# range), but still makes the smaller panfish feel like they are at least putting up a fight.

If I were fishing new water and didn't know what to expect I would probably grab the 6wt FlyStik as my first choice. I wouldn't be afraid to tackle a fish larger than the 4# bass I'm used to catching, and if they were smaller it would still let me have fun catching them!

You can read a review on the FlyStik  by clicking on this link .


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

Wabi I got the 10wt Flystik, After the initial screwup with the new rod not being assembled right, I tried putting up for sale then I gave it work out for musky last month and really like it. You get what you pay for as the component are low level though but it is better than some of the others I have tried even more so than a Winston B2X!


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## wabi (Jun 14, 2008)

Flyfish Dog said:


> Wabi I got the 10wt Flystik, After the initial screwup with the new rod not being assembled right, I tried putting up for sale then I gave it work out for musky last month and really like it. You get what you pay for as the component are low level though but it is better than some of the others I have tried even more so than a Winston B2X!


What was the assembly problem????

I find the FlyStik to be a versatile rod, and so far have found no quality issues with mine. (I do carry it in a Sage case, though. ) 

I will admit I lean toward favoring a slow to medium action rod in most of my fishing situations, and the FlyStik seems to fall into that classification. I can't get the casting distance that a long - fast action rod provides, but that's a trade-off I'm happy with.


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## Flyfish Dog (Nov 6, 2007)

The sliding reel seat sing was mounted backwards where you couldn't even mount the reel on it. My 10wt is quite a bit stiffer than the Winston B2X. I can get about 75-80 ft on the Flystik with a popper.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

Scott G series 9 weight about to go off cheap!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230497270516&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT


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## Clayton (Oct 7, 2008)

Flyfish Dog said:


> I had a TiCr rod that sucked so bad, still the worse I had ever casted yet!
> But the other rods are great though. Just stay clear of fast action rods and you will be fine.


Mehhhh your review is useless! Fast action rods not suiting your casting style does not make them all worthless crap  I happen to LOVE my TFO rods, especially my new Bob Clouser 6 weight. As a matter of fact, I took it out today and whacked a few, including carp, catfish, and smallmouth. All were a blast on the rod.

Downside: if you have to buy the reel as well and you buy a mediocre one, you'll have to work hard to stay away from 400 dollars. The rod itself is 250 (and it is good, but not some kind of awesome thunderstick either ) line is 50, and that leaves 100 for a reel. Get a reel that balances the rod well, rather than a super cheap one. It costs more but is worth it in the long run.


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## Clayton (Oct 7, 2008)

dadofalltrades said:


> I stopped in at MRO today and they were showing me an Orvis combo ... 5wt 9'...rod, reel, line, case for around $200. Might go that route for my first rod to get it in hand and then start scanning ebay for the inevitable addiction that is to come.


Nice  2 piece or 4? 4's are more portable. Also, I think I'm familiar with the rod you're talking about... I would probably go TFO pro series but that's just me. Take the rods out back and cast em, and buy the one that suits you best. Nobody's gonna be able to say what rod will fit for you.


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