# Alumacraft 165 walk through models on erie



## eyedreamn (Jun 12, 2011)

I'm looking at the alumnacraft line right now. I'm restricted to a 16 foot rig. I really like the looks of the alumnacraft trophy 165 and it looks like they are no longer making it for 2018. The other lines are quiet as appealing. I like a high side and an open platform in the back. The rear flip deck eats up too much space on some of the other models. 

Does anyone have any experience with a smaller aluma on Erie? How do they handle. How about setting them up with the manufactures track system? I'm not to excited about the track system either.


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## GradeA (Aug 11, 2017)

As any other boat, you have to pick your days on erie, you'l be fi.e with that boat, make sure you get max hp on it and you won' have any issues


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## mosquito walleye (Aug 3, 2012)

I have a 2017 Alumacraft 185 trophy and dock it on Lake Erie all summer in Ashtabula. Absolutely love it, never go out on crazy days, but have got caught in 7 footers before and made it in just fine while taking my time. This boat has a large beam for pretty much being a 19 foot boat. Bought it because of it's depth and width compared to any other boat that was 19 foot long. Also like that it is heavier than most boats it's size. I have a track system mounted on mine, you can buy mounts for the alumacraft system that is in it's rails and mount a track for rod holders.


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## thebige22 (Oct 26, 2007)

I have a 2005 Alumacraft 165 Navigator (not sure if they still make this model). I've had it on Erie probably close to 100 times but have to pick and choose the days depending on wind. I try to stay off the Lake when there are 3-4 footers but feel safe otherwise. The boat has a 92" beam which is wider than most 17 ft aluminum boats which is definitely a plus; however the sides aren't as high as I would like. I agree with the previous post about horsepower- I have a 90 HP Optimax and am very happy with it. I purchased the boat used in 2008 and it already had TiteLok rod holders on it which I'm not overly thrilled about. Now I use this boat for the Spring jig bite and I have a 24 ft center console I use the remainder of the year. Hope this helps


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

I have a '97 Trophy 175 (18' long). I liked this older model as it does not have a deck for seats in the back. It is setup like a sport fisher with a tall freeboard all the way around - prevents following seas from coming in the motorwell into the boat.

Anything over 2' and I get beat up in this boat. I think it is because it is rather light weight and gets tossed around easily. Will ride over larger than 2's - we have been out in more, it is just not fun as getting tossed around. Over 2' and i have to really watch speed as it will pound terribly when you are running.

I no longer actively fish this boat in Erie since purchasing the 30' Baha sportfishing boat. Told the wife I wanted "bigger" and she said go for it... However, if I was going to keep running it, I would have a canvas deck cover made for the bowrider up front. Reason, I have taken "blue water" over the bow of the Trophy a few times and this will help keep it from "digging in" - make sure the bilge pumps work and perhaps install two... BTW have put "blue water" over the bow of the Baha too - but that was coming home in 9' waves. :^)

As for rails, rod holders, etc... get Cisco - they are the best IMO. And they are a local Cleveland Ohio business - made and mfg right in Cleveland.


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

HEY mosquito walleye,hows the repair coming along?


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## mosquito walleye (Aug 3, 2012)

bountyhunter said:


> HEY mosquito walleye,hows the repair coming along?


I think it still has a while as the truck just actually went there to ship it back to Minnesota. I will give alumacraft a month or so before I contact them if I have to, to see how the testing is going on everything and remind them that I need something back in time for the spring bite. If I don't have something back by then they will def start to here my voice...... They may as well just give me a new 2018 hull instead. Who knows what will happen though.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

mosquito walleye said:


> I think it still has a while as the truck just actually went there to ship it back to Minnesota. I will give alumacraft a month or so before I contact them if I have to, to see how the testing is going on everything and remind them that I need something back in time for the spring bite. If I don't have something back by then they will def start to here my voice...... They may as well just give me a new 2018 hull instead. Who knows what will happen though.


ask for a new boat warranty to start when your 2017 hull returns. not like you have been able to use it.


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## eyedreamn (Jun 12, 2011)

I endend up getting a new lund 1750 rebel walk through with a 90 4 stroke merc. She fits down the driveway and into the garage. 

Now the bleeding begins with thw rigging..


I did get Cisco tracks, 6 bases, 6 10" risers and and 6 long cradles. I may need to refi the house...


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

thats a idea getting a 2018. hope things work out.


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

i used a 16' deep v glass boat with 85 hp motor on the western basin for a few yrs. always fished with 3' or less waves. watched the weather close. only had to leave the lake 1 time due to the waves. you should be fine with that boat on most days. its always best to get the biggest motor you can afford that in the boats max hp. I've had boats with as little as 15 hp and moved up as i could. I've never had to much hp. but have wanted more a few times.

i use the cannon tracks with the cannon single axis ratcheting holders on my boat and love them. when not using them i just remove from tracks and store them. the cannon holders can be put down with one hand. then to bring a rod in just grab the rod and ratchet them to the upright position and lift the rod out. before i got the cannon holders i used the cabelas quickdraw holders they worked great until i started using divers. then they twisted around some. and they worked but i was just afraid they might break and lose a rig.
sherman


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

sherman51 said:


> before i got the cannon holders i used the cabelas quickdraw holders they worked great until i started using divers. then they twisted around some. and they worked but i was just afraid they might break and lose a rig.
> sherman


I second that negative report on the Cabela's holders. They work ok in calm waters but on Erie they flex too much. The quickdraw will flex enough that they are no longer "quick" as they lock down from twist.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

eyedreamn said:


> Now the bleeding begins with thw rigging..
> 
> I did get Cisco tracks, 6 bases, 6 10" risers and and 6 long cradles. I may need to refi the house...



Through-bolt with backing plates and use stainless steel everywhere. If the Lund is like the alumacraft, you may want to first add some wood (marine plywood) under the gunnel and then back that with stainless or aluminum washer or plate. Use locktite on all nuts even if you use lock washers. Note do not use treated wood as when treated with chromate copper arsenate (CCA), it will corrode aluminum when wet.

As you do electrical, make sure you understand DC vs AC wiring conventions. One common mistake in rigging DC electrical is that the "load distance run" for DC is the FULL circuit distance (to and from device to battery - the loop). so the fishfinder 15' distance from your battery, that pulls 5amps will need to use wire that is rated to handle 5amps over a 30' distance. Note that there are two power "drop" tables for determining wire gauge too - one for regular DC devices that can handle 10% drop (pumps, windless, etc) and the other for critical systems (good electronics, power panels, etc) that are 3% drop.

a good source of electrical info can be found on Blue Sea site www.bluesea.com
they have a circuit wizard online (and app) that will help with determining the appropriate wire size to use at http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/#

Use quality electrical connectors that heat seal to the wire to make waterproof connections. Also makes them much more sturdy and less susceptible to vibration separation.

have fun - the outfitting is the tinkering part...


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## Popspastime (Apr 1, 2014)

eyedreamn said:


> I endend up getting a new lund 1750 rebel walk through with a 90 4 stroke merc. She fits down the driveway and into the garage.
> 
> Now the bleeding begins with thw rigging..
> 
> ...


Congrats on the new rig. Wait until you get that baby in the chop, you'll be surprised how soft it runs it. I have an "18" 1750 as well but in the Side Counsel and absolutely love the boat. Need any rigging tips give me a PM, glad to help.


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## mosquito walleye (Aug 3, 2012)

privateer said:


> ask for a new boat warranty to start when your 2017 hull returns. not like you have been able to use it.


Trust me, I am going to ask for everything that I can get. Especially if it starts to take some time before I get anything back. I didn't think they were going to want the boat all the way back at the factory for testing. Thought they were just going to get done what needed done, but who knows..


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## mosquito walleye (Aug 3, 2012)

bountyhunter said:


> thats a idea getting a 2018. hope things work out.


Dealership said they have seen them do it before. I def am willing to even wait a little longer if that ends up being the case, doubt it though. But if the whole entire boat gets repainting again after just 1 year of use, I also can't complain. Getting a brand new outside of the boat once again.


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

privateer said:


> Through-bolt with backing plates and use stainless steel everywhere. If the Lund is like the alumacraft, you may want to first add some wood (marine plywood) under the gunnel and then back that with stainless or aluminum washer or plate. Use locktite on all nuts even if you use lock washers. Note do not use treated wood as when treated with chromate copper arsenate (CCA), it will corrode aluminum when wet.
> 
> As you do electrical, make sure you understand DC vs AC wiring conventions. One common mistake in rigging DC electrical is that the "load distance run" for DC is the FULL circuit distance (to and from device to battery - the loop). so the fishfinder 15' distance from your battery, that pulls 5amps will need to use wire that is rated to handle 5amps over a 30' distance. Note that there are two power "drop" tables for determining wire gauge too - one for regular DC devices that can handle 10% drop (pumps, windless, etc) and the other for critical systems (good electronics, power panels, etc) that are 3% drop.
> 
> ...


also on any boat wiring you want to use marine wiring. its coated to prevent corrosion.
sherman


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

sherman51 said:


> also on any boat wiring you want to use marine wiring. its coated to prevent corrosion.
> sherman


thought it went without saying... thanks for the assist...

Yes, the coating is called "tinned" which is a silver coat on each wire filament to protect them from corrosion. here is a brief article and picture that explains...
http://www.boats.com/how-to/boat-vs-automotive-grade-wire/#.Wmijt0trx24

same with your wire connectors - get the marine ones that heat shrink - not the ones from local auto parts store...

When I did an electronics "refit" on my Baha 299 (30' boat), my "extras" bill in wiring and connectors was over $1000. Those two 50amp service pulls are still the most expensive wire I have ever purchased.

Proper wiring on boats is one of my "things" as it is disappointing how many boat builders and services shops just don't get it right and put us all at risk for premature electronics failure or worse - boat failure or fire at sea...


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

privateer said:


> thought it went without saying... thanks for the assist...
> 
> Yes, the coating is called "tinned" which is a silver coat on each wire filament to protect them from corrosion. here is a brief article and picture that explains...
> http://www.boats.com/how-to/boat-vs-automotive-grade-wire/#.Wmijt0trx24
> ...


great read on the wire. good info for any boat owner.
sherman


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## JPH (Oct 27, 2011)

Eyedreamn I run a 1992 Alumacraft 165 Lunker with a 25hp tiller usually out of Vermillion. It does fine out there 1-3' but I keep a close eye on the weather.


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