# Mech. Broad head



## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

I have a 170 class buck on my hands this fall and want to try a mechanical broadhead due to long range flight accuracy and other great things I've heard. So here my question, does anyone TRUST AND RECOMMEND a mech. ? Or should I just keep using my fixed ?

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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Oh boy.....

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## VitalShot (Feb 10, 2012)

I myself feel confidant in 2 blade rage. 


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## BanksideBandit (Jan 22, 2010)

2 blade rage here as well...I would imagine that most mechanicals these days are pretty trustworthy. Plus you can buy practice tips, extra blades, and extra o rings for them which is nice. They came out with a lot more styles of rages this year and the chisle tip looks nice and I might give them a try this year. I've shot the rage practice tips the same as a field point in target practice.


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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

Thanks for the info you two! I will look at them! And bad bub, is there something wrong with me asking if anyone recommends and has trust in a certain mechanical? I asked the question because I have trust in my fixed at 40 but I'm not sure at 50 and 60... Just taking opinions to improve my hunting game...

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## Narf Koscelmik (Sep 21, 2007)

Take a look at the nap kill zones as well. They are similar to rage but don't have any bands or o rings. They are getting very good reviews as well. First year trying them for me... They are flying with my field points pretty dead on 


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

KWaller said:


> Thanks for the info you two! I will look at them! And bad bub, is there something wrong with me asking if anyone recommends and has trust in a certain mechanical? I asked the question because I have trust in my fixed at 40 but I'm not sure at 50 and 60... Just taking opinions to improve my hunting game...
> 
> Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


No problem from me, I just know the kind of debate that gets started. I believe there was a good one going about 2 weeks ago between shwacker's and rage's.....

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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

Bad Bub said:


> No problem from me, I just know the kind of debate that gets started. I believe there was a good one going about 2 weeks ago between shwacker's and rage's.....
> 
> Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


I thought u meant about me asking lol my bad. I never saw that thread, I'll take a look at it.


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## BassSlayerChris (Aug 9, 2010)

Here we go again. Swhackers all day every day, BEST on the market. 


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## Carpn (Apr 5, 2004)

If you can get fixed blades to fly good then I would use em. Muzzy is a good option . If you are dead set on mechanical G5 T3 tekans are nasty.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Carpn said:


> If you can get fixed blades to fly good then I would use em. Muzzy is a good option . If you are dead set on mechanical G5 T3 tekans are nasty.


If your fixed blades are flying good out to 40 yards there's no reason they wouldn't fly good beyond that. I do question taking 50 -60 yard shots while hunting. Just one step of the amimal or an unseen twig can make a good shot go bad.


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## icingdeath (Jun 2, 2010)

im a strong believer in nap spitfire.never failed me yet.


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## wildman (Sep 3, 2008)

crappiedude said:


> If your fixed blades are flying good out to 40 yards there's no reason they wouldn't fly good beyond that. *I do question taking 50 -60 yard shots while hunting*. Just one step of the amimal or an unseen twig can make a good shot go bad.



I agree... It has to be a the perfict situation even then it's risky


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## BassSlayerChris (Aug 9, 2010)

I do agree a lot with you guy 50-60 is way to much if you have a middle to lower end bow with hunting arrow speed less then 270. That's hunting arrow speed NOT ibo. If its shooting good at 40, don't change. 


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

BassSlayerChris said:


> I do agree a lot with you guy 50-60 is way to much if you have a middle to lower end bow with hunting arrow speed less then 270. That's hunting arrow speed NOT ibo. If its shooting good at 40, don't change.
> 
> 
> Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine


I don't care how fast the bow is or what equipment you use....40 plus yards is way out there. Too much can go wrong in that distance.


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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

I shot my bow with my broadheads yesterday, they just aren't flying right. I am looking into the rage, spitfire, or schwaker. 
My bow is shooting at 300-305fps with hunting equipment. I trust in myself to make a good clean shot at 50+60. But the game is called hunting, not shooting, so just because he stepped out at 60 doesn't mean I should shoot, it means I need to try to attract him in.

Now please don't start arguing over how i shoot, hunt, etc. I'm not even gonns think bout shooting at 60yds in a 10+ mph wind.

I trust you guys and appreciate the help!

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## BassSlayerChris (Aug 9, 2010)

crappiedude said:


> I don't care how fast the bow is or what equipment you use....40 plus yards is way out there. Too much can go wrong in that distance.


I totally disagree. With years and years of practice taking a 50 yard shot is like shooting 20. I can honestly say I can group 6 arrows at 50 yards in a 2" group. In anything up to 15 mph winds. I shoot 200 shots a day for the past 2 years. It's all I do when I'm not on the water. 


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## BassSlayerChris (Aug 9, 2010)

KWaller said:


> I shot my bow with my broadheads yesterday, they just aren't flying right. I am looking into the rage, spitfire, or schwaker.
> My bow is shooting at 300-305fps with hunting equipment. I trust in myself to make a good clean shot at 50+60. But the game is called hunting, not shooting, so just because he stepped out at 60 doesn't mean I should shoot, it means I need to try to attract him in.
> 
> Now please don't start arguing over how i shoot, hunt, etc. I'm not even gonns think bout shooting at 60yds in a 10+ mph wind.
> ...


300-305fps? Are you shooting a crossbow..?


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

BassSlayerChris said:


> I totally disagree. With years and years of practice taking a 50 yard shot is like shooting 20. I can honestly say I can group 6 arrows at 50 yards in a 2" group. In anything up to 15 mph winds. I shoot 200 shots a day for the past 2 years. It's all I do when I'm not on the water.
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Shooting in your back yard is different than hunting. Distances aren't exact, twigs, branches, briars aren't alway visible, clothing is different, broadheads are added to arrows. Adrenelin is flowing. In back yard a miss is no big deal, hunting is different.
People aren't perfect. $h!+ happens at 20 yards...alot more happens at 50 or 60 yards.
I used to practice out to 50 yards just so I could kill deer at 20 yards.

Nobody is perfect. Wait a couple of weeks and you'll be able to read some of the stories on here.

Just sayin.


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## VitalShot (Feb 10, 2012)

I will have my deer blood tracking dog in mid oct. let me know if you need me. 


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

50-60 yards? Personally i dont hunt archery with any one who would shoot a deer at thar distance. Most my shots are under 20 and never over 30. But that requires being a good hunter. But at those yards to many get a way wounded.

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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

VitalShot said:


> I will have my deer blood tracking dog in mid oct. let me know if you need me.
> 
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That says it all


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## larry bow man (Sep 8, 2012)

You not believing those numbers? Now-day's its not hard to reach those numbers with the new archery equipment available. If they shoot a PSE omen or another beast like that? Or were you just curious? Either way I'm excited to have joined this site! Good luck to all this yr.


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## viper1 (Apr 13, 2004)

Nothing at all hard about hitting at that range. But a 80 lb bow dont have enough killing power at that range. Biggest cause of wounded deer in archery is this type of thinking. I have seen it for years and we referred to it as slob hunting. There is a lot more to a good hunter besides how far a target he can hit. As a hunter and not a shotist. I take pride in being good enough to get a close shot an d a clean quick kill


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I believe a 60# bow shooting a 360 grain arrow with a fixed blade broadhead has enough energy to do a complete pass through on an adult deer at 50 yards if the hit is perfect. Actually I think a bow shooting a slower bow with a heavier arrow will still have plenty of energy to kill a deer. I'm not talking killing power at all.

I keep hearing about new or modern or fast bows. 50 yards is 50 yards no matter how fast the bow is. Once you have a pin set its the same shot for any bow. I just don't believe that there are many people who can shoot that shot consistently while hunting. I'm mean the deer shows up after sitting for 4 hours in 25 degree weather. I mean when a deer shows up in the last fading minutes of daylight and there are unseen obstacles. I mean a deer shows up and you have just seconds to get gather your thoughts and make the shot. All a deer has to do is take that one last step once the arrow is released to make a good shot go bad. The shot could be perfect but the deep moved.

I know some of the best 3d shooters in the area. These guys shoot from Florida to New York and I do know they aren't good enough to make the shot consistently and they shoot year round at unknown distances out to 40 plus yards. I know because I've gotten the phone calls to help track their unrecovered deer and these shots were much closer that the 50-60 yards the OP was talking about.


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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

Again, none of us are perfect hunters and all I simply asked for was what mechanical broad head do you shoot!?!? None of you have been with me when I shoot, I practiced this kind of stuff, I'm an ethical hunter and have never wounded a deer, coyote, squirrel, etc. I actually just started to practice the idea of pulling back and waiting 1 minute to shoot. I can also tell you I can put a group at 60 just as good at 20, 2" circles. Times ARE changing, bows are changing, their is a huge difference between the pse omen and the bear you got from your buddies co worker five years ago. I know what I'm doing, I've had the experience of sleeping in the ground blind with a blanket while my father hunted when I was 3. 

Now please, recommend me a mechanical, don't tell me why I CAN'T shoot 50-60, it's a self confidence thing gentleman and women...


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## M.Magis (Apr 5, 2004)

I&#8217;ve got no problem for a competent archer to take 50 yards shots. In fact, those with much time hunting know that a shot at a relaxed deer at 50 yards is far better than a 20 shot at an alert deer. Far, *far* better. The distance is much less important that the deer&#8217;s demeanor, yet people never think about that. They just think that if a deer&#8217;s within 30 yards everything is okay. It doesn&#8217;t work that way. I don&#8217;t know where the idea came from that an 80 lb bow doesn&#8217;t have enough power at those ranges? For a four year stretch, my buck tags were all filled with shots between 50-55 yards. Two were pass throughs and the two that weren&#8217;t both broke the leg bones on the opposite side. I shoot 67 lbs. and a whopping 223 fps. Any decent set up has more than enough energy for those yardages. All that being said, this is where mechanicals should be avoided just due to the energy needed to work properly. Any good fixed bladed will fly like field points when everything is tuned properly.


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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

Thanks magis, so you think I should try to find a better flying fixed? I've always had trust in the muzzys


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## monster7 (Nov 17, 2010)

K Waller - I shoot the Rage 2 blade with no issues. I've shot the practice BH out to 60 yards with no accuracy problems. My bow shoots around 297-305fps. Good luck.


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## M.Magis (Apr 5, 2004)

I use Muzzys myself, for the most part. I&#8217;ve shots numerous other heads, most of the others being large cut-on-impact heads like Snuffers and Woodsmans. With less time these days for shooting and tuning, I&#8217;ve settled on Muzzy for a reliable head that I can count on to hit where I expect it to. The larger heads require more work at the range, particularly for a fingers shooter like me. I think there are numerous heads out there that will work, it&#8217;s just I never found a reason to switch from Muzzy. I like the way the 3 blade goes together as opposed to having o-rings and such with other brands. I&#8217;m not a big fan of the 4 blade, but just because it doesn&#8217;t seem as strong as the 3 blade. I may be wrong about that.


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## P-NUT (May 17, 2009)

Magis was right on when he mentioned mechanical heads having to have enough energy to work properly. You lose a lot more energy from 40 to 60 than you do from 20 to 40. If you are shooting over 300 fps you should be carrying enough kinetic energy to open a mechanical. If it is a point of concern though, remember that smaller(1.25 inch vs. 1.75 inch) three blade heads take less energy to open as do 2 blade heads. On a side note, to give you something positive to think about, I have a good friend who took a mature doe at 72 yards(ranged) with a 3 blade wasp jackhammer. They are awesome heads that you don't hear much about. Good luck.


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## bobk (Apr 30, 2004)

KWaller said:


> Thanks magis, so you think I should try to find a better flying fixed? I've always had trust in the muzzys
> 
> 
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K, I have shot Muzzy's for years and they will fly fine at 50 yrds. Have you tuned the broadheads to the fletches? It will make a world of difference in the flight.


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## KWaller (Oct 3, 2010)

By aligning them, you just mean to have each blade even with each knock? Never heard of that...


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## M.Magis (Apr 5, 2004)

I've never found that lining up the fletchings to the blades changes anything for me. I think any tuning guide will also say it doesn't do anything, but it seems to help some people. I suspect that when they turn the broadheads, they're aligning the staightness of the heads to the shaft, if that makes sense. I spin test all mine first, so they're already aligned properly, which could be why lining up the fletching with the blades doesn't change anything.


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## CAS_HNTR (Mar 7, 2012)

Aligning the fletching and vanes will not do anything to the point of impact but if it makes you all warm and fuzzy...do it.

You need to tune your bow to get the fixed heads to shoot correctly....this does not mean taking it to a shop and saying is my bow in tune...it means shooting the think with broadheads and making adjustments until they hit where they need to. Your field points and broadheads should be grouping in the same spots all all distances....if they are not, the bow needs some work.

Even if you decide to shoot a mechanical this fall, I highly encourage you to tune your setup to shoot fixed heads. Proper tune will increase energy at the arrow and thus greatly help penetration when you do shoot something. 

Most people give up after trying to tune their bows as it can be exhausting....but once you do it once, you will be happy you did. It gives you much more confidence in your setup when crunch time comes.

If you have any questions, let me know.


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## General (Oct 28, 2009)

Rage 2 blades.... Shot a big old doe last year at 40 yards quartering away and blew right through the other shoulder


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## Gobi Muncher (May 27, 2004)

NAP Spitfires!!!! Also been looking at the new NAP Killzone, but haven't bought any. Didn't like the Rage broadheads because it seemed to me that while still hunting if you catch a twig or briar the blades would slip and have to be reset, got tired of that and went back to spitfires. Didn't ever get a shot at a deer with Rage, so can't talk to the effectiveness.
Also, a buddy and I switched to the carbon revolution 5.5gr arrows this year. So far LOVE them and driving in deeper than my heavier arrows. Here are the calcs. he did for his bow prior to getting the shafts (he actually is shooting around the 310 f/s mark with them).....50 ft/lbs is plenty for whitetail............


Current arrow weight: 357 grains
Current bow IBO: 304 ft/s
Current bow draw weight: 65 lbs
Current draw length: 29"
Curent arrow speed: 267 ft/s
Current arrow energy: 62.7 ft-lbs

With 5.5 grains/inch High Country arrows, I calculate:

New Arrow weight: 297 grains (allows for reduced insert and nock weights of High Country comnponents) New arrow speed: 299 ft/s New arrow energy: 59.4 ft-lbs

So, for my bow, I'm anticipating a speed gain of around 32 ft/s, and I should retain 95 % of my current arrow energy.


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## M.Magis (Apr 5, 2004)

Gobi Muncher said:


> NAP Spitfires!!!! Also been looking at the new NAP Killzone, but haven't bought any. Didn't like the Rage broadheads because it seemed to me that while still hunting if you catch a twig or briar the blades would slip and have to be reset, got tired of that and went back to spitfires. Didn't ever get a shot at a deer with Rage, so can't talk to the effectiveness.
> Also, a buddy and I switched to the carbon revolution 5.5gr arrows this year. So far LOVE them and driving in deeper than my heavier arrows. Here are the calcs. he did for his bow prior to getting the shafts (he actually is shooting around the 310 f/s mark with them).....50 ft/lbs is plenty for whitetail............
> 
> 
> ...


Your numbers arent making sense for me. Im not sure if theres something Im missing or what it is. Your KE numbers dont match what I come up with, though I dont suppose it matters much, you have plenty. My main question is where you came up with the theoretical speed increase of 32 fps? If Im reading your numbers right, youll gain about 20 fps. On average, theres normally about 3 fps gained for every 10 grains lost in arrow weight. You could get upward of 4 fps/10 grains, but 5 is unlikely. I think youll be losing about 10% of your KE. Again, not a big deal either way. I was just wondering if I misunderstood something. I suppose this is a discussion for its own post, as it really doesnt apply much to the original question.


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## bobk (Apr 30, 2004)

I don't line the fletching to the blades I make sure they are in between each other. Old buddy showed me this years ago with his Muzzy's. I don't feel all warm and fuzzy over it but it sure makes my arrows fly great.


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## fishintechnician (Jul 20, 2007)

I really like the grim reaper mech broadheads myself and some of the other guys have used them and they are great, great penetration, good blood trail, and super strong.


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## Gobi Muncher (May 27, 2004)

M.Magis, 
you are correct really didn't have much to do with the original post, just remember someone mentioning it.......I don't post much and apologize for adding the content. However, I didn't do the math, by buddy did so can't speak for the figures. I don't get that far into it, just get everything in order and hunt.
Sorry again for the confusion...............anyway...........Spitfire.


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## M.Magis (Apr 5, 2004)

No big deal, I was just wondering where my numbers were going wrong.


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## buck.eyehunter (May 27, 2007)

Well I believe use what your confidence in.
I have been using 2 blade rage still not sure... use to shoot spit fires, but not crazy about the quartering shots.
Been thinking about going back to thunderheads or new fixed blade.

I have smoked them at 50 and they jumped the string and hit them high at 20. Im still very upset about one from last year that jumped the string and never recovered searched for 2 days with nothing...
You where right on magis about demeanor! 
There is alot of people that wound deer by not knowing there abilities or possibilities.

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## zero410 (Feb 26, 2010)

i use 125 grain spitfire pros out of my crossbow.one thing to watch with mechanical broadheads is to make sure the blades are where they are supposed to be before you shoot.sometimes they can move out of place unknowingly.i have read that rage broadheads do this a lot and sometimes i find my spitfires do also.


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## billk (Feb 2, 2008)

KWaller said:


> I shot my bow with my broadheads yesterday, they just aren't flying right. I am looking into the rage, spitfire, or schwaker.
> My bow is shooting at 300-305fps with hunting equipment. I trust in myself to make a good clean shot at 50+60. But the game is called hunting, not shooting, so just because he stepped out at 60 doesn't mean I should shoot, it means I need to try to attract him in.
> 
> Now please don't start arguing over how i shoot, hunt, etc. I'm not even gonns think bout shooting at 60yds in a 10+ mph wind.
> ...


Have you paper tuned with a bare shaft to make sure you've got a good center-shot? Biggest problem I've ever had with broadheads not flying right was caused by being out of tune.


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## cubsfan (Nov 17, 2008)

Although my experiance is limited, reaper 3 blade are my choice only shot one doe with them and complete pass threw. The rage 2 blade with the O"rings stink in my humble opion I shot a doe at 15 yards and only got what appeard to be 4" of penatration had good blood but trailed for hours and close to 2 miles tral ended and so did my use of rage.


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