# my winter project has began



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

well i shut down the boat today and began my winter restoration. hope i can get done by the time ice melts dont want to miss the spring


----------



## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

Nice looking boat, I'm sure all the effort will be worth it come next spring...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Workdog (Jan 10, 2007)

Encapsulate your new stringers and bulkheads and tab them in with marine two part epoxy NOT fiberglass resin, and you will have a boat that lasts a lifetime. Check out epoxies by Raka or USComposites.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

actually all the supporting members are metal so i dont have to worry about rot under the deck. but i was thinking about coating the deck wood with fiberglass resin. workdog do you think the floor would do better with epoxy rather than the resin. cause that was the issue with the boat being its aluminum rivet boat it had some leaking issues and from water sitting under the deck all the deck wood started to rot. so im planning on fixing the leaks but i was thinking of coating the floor boards as added protection. i only want to do this once.


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

You'll definitely want to coat the plywood. Even marine grade plywood recommends being either glassed or epoxied. Up to you which you choose.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## maxx40x (Jul 9, 2009)

nice boat; I completely refit an older 18ft StarCraft SS, if you have questions in regard to what products to use, and what products NOT to use, send me a pm; and trust me on this one little thing; it was learning curve I will not forget; I have full documentation including 100s of pix; I have no less than a hundred hrs in research in regard to what works and what don't. and can also tell you who has what you need when you need it. I did not go cheep on any parts I bought, its just not smart to cut corners on a boat. good luck, and think about what your objective is.


----------



## ebijack (Mar 31, 2013)

Thx for posting, I'll be watching as I'd like to redo my C liner but I also want to change the layout a bit.


----------



## Workdog (Jan 10, 2007)

jjpugh said:


> actually all the supporting members are metal so i dont have to worry about rot under the deck. but i was thinking about coating the deck wood with fiberglass resin. workdog do you think the floor would do better with epoxy rather than the resin. cause that was the issue with the boat being its aluminum rivet boat it had some leaking issues and from water sitting under the deck all the deck wood started to rot. so im planning on fixing the leaks but i was thinking of coating the floor boards as added protection. i only want to do this once.


I seen the boat had an aluminum hull, but the 2nd bulkhead back looked rotted in the photo, that's why I thought all of it was wood. Looks like you have foam flotation in there too. Ensure that none of it is waterlogged before you put the deck on again.

I would use epoxy (even though it is more expensive), and would bet Maxx would recommend it too. With epoxy, it is more durable, and you can get it in longer curing times than resin which allows the wet epoxy to seep into the wood before it sets up resulting in a much longer lasting product. I would also think about covering both sides and the ends of the deck boards with fiberglass cloth. Maxx could give you the proper weight cloth...I haven't studied this in a while.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

the more and more i dig into this and check cost of stuff i need ill be accepting donations from anyone with to much money


----------



## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

jjpugh said:


> the more and more i dig into this and check cost of stuff i need ill be accepting donations from anyone with to much money


I believe there is an old saying that boat stands for "break out another thousand"...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Misdirection said:


> I believe there is an old saying that boat stands for "break out another thousand"...
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


No doubt there...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## whjr15 (Jun 16, 2005)

Man, I cringe just seeing pictures of floatation foam! Have fun with that!!! lol. 

I redid all the wood (deck, bow, doghouse) and foam in my 18' aluminum Crestliner last year, and the foam was *BY FAR* the worst part. Very time consuming and STINKY as all hell! There was a time where I wished I had never began removing it... Actually it was the whole time! lol... But like workdog said, if it's waterlogged, you have to get it out and replace. Otherwise, you'll be replacing the deck again in no time!

Look forward to seeing pics though!


----------



## 'Rude Dog (Apr 11, 2004)

currently finishing up a 18' starcraft holiday ... replaced floor, foam, transom, repainted the hull, used gluvit on the rivets, etc... trying to get it finished before october, for fall fishing ( got stuck working 60 hrs a week since the 2nd week of may ( I bought the project boat 2 weeks before the overtime started...) just hoping to finish her up soon. ( just have to lay the new carpet, and finish pop riveting the splashwell and built in seats in the rear of the boat, hang the evinrude back on her, and take her to the lake for a shakedown cruise...BTW, what year, and length is your Starcraft ???


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

its a 1996 fishmaster 190 18'


----------



## I Fish (Sep 24, 2008)

2 years ago, I done my 18' Sylvan. I went a little further, in that I modified beyond just replacing. Besides the floor/foam, I removed the splashwell, replaced the transom wood with Coosa Board Bluewater 26 and riveted an extra sheet of aluminum skin to the outside of the transom in order to raise it to about 21 inches. Then, I used aluminum from the splashwell to build a motorwell. I put a 28 gallon gas tank in the floor. Then, I built a rear casting deck, with storage underneath, where the splashwell was. Now, I can use the whole boat. It's like my boat got 2 feet longer as far as fishability is concerned.

My boat is a center console. It had 2 floor mounted pedestal seats behind the center seat. That was where it appeared the most water got into the foam. So, during the re-build, I left them out. Now, passengers set on the rear deck, and use the Bimini top as a back rest. 

I'm here to tell ya, about half way through, I started to wish I'd never started, but, after I finished, I'm convinced this is how it should have came from the factory. The gas tank in the floor has been one of the best things. Not only did that free up a lot of space, it also lowered and moved forward the overall center of gravity. 

Also, I now a lot of people will say don't bother with the expanding foam, and just use pool noodles or whatever. I believe the foam, while not solely there for structure support, it does provide some. Here's why I say this. As you can see in your boat, the factory riveted everything together, including the floor. Then, if it's like mine, they cut 8 holes in the floor and injected the expanding foam. In my boat, they put to much in. It caused a slight crown in my floor, but, more than that, it busted the rivets that connected the stringers to the ribs. There were over 50 busted rivets. The stringers were only attached at the first rib and the last 2. Every rivet in between was busted by the foam. The force from expansion has caused a 3/8" gap between the stringer and the ribs. Now, IMO, had that foam not been so rigid, this would have shown up earlier. As it was, it remained solid from 1986 to 2011, even though the stringers weren't attached. If I hadn't torn into it, I still wouldn't know.

You probably already know, but the iboat forums are a great resource. Also, McMaster-Carr was the best source I found for rivets and screws. If you do order from them, it will usually be delivered the next day. I found that to be awesome, especially if I'd forgot something, I'd call them up and have it the next day.


----------



## Marinette Sportfisherman (Apr 13, 2010)

DO yourself a favor and just use 3/16 alum hlt 3003 diamond plate. Measuure it up call Clinton alum and stainless get it cut and they deliver to your house drop it in and rivet it down with glass stop rivets made for auto glass. Run a bead of 5200 on all the stringers let it cure then set alum so it does not allow moisture to collet and form crevice corrosion. 

I did this in my lund Alaskan and going on 4 years and I love it, all the fish crap comes off with a hose. Use a anti fatique matt in the summer hot months.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

How did u install floatation after u put down the deck? Did u paint it or something cause I Amagin the reflection would fry you in summer. Is it slippery when wet?


----------



## I Fish (Sep 24, 2008)

jjpugh said:


> How did u install floatation after u put down the deck?


I used a piece of plywood big enough to go from the side to the stringer, wrapped in heavy plastic, then, starting at the back, I'd mix up a batch of foam, pour it in, then set the plastic wrapped plywood down and sat on it. The foam wouldn't stick to the plastic. It took several pours, but I eventually got it filled up, and, had a nice flat surface. After that was done, I riveted my floor down.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

i got 90% of the floatation out. In my venture i have found 4 colorado blades 3 crank baits 2 worm harnesses and one dead perch(gross). after i get the last bit of floatation out im going to figure out how to get my gas tank with 15 gallons of gas in it out of the boat and see how bad my leaks are. and decide were to go next


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Lol! It's amazing what you find in there.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

Now you need to put some lure back in there for good luck before you seal it back up!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Marinette Sportfisherman (Apr 13, 2010)

jjpugh said:


> How did u install floatation after u put down the deck? Did u paint it or something cause I Amagin the reflection would fry you in summer. Is it slippery when wet?


I kept it natural, but you can order the alum non polished. Marinette boats decks are alum, pacific skiffs alum and numerous plate boats all use alum floors. I weighed all the wood when I removed it and then weighed the alum and I gained 50 lbs but the alum will never absorb water and if you take the wood, wrap with nautalux or carpet all your doing is trapping the moisture. I have diamond plate so its not slippery.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

i filled the boat with water to find my leaks and found that the main seam line running from my transom to were the boat starts to curve up is leaking real bad. i cant find any info on removing this seam and replacing. has anybody done this before kinda leary about taking it apart without knowing i cant put it back


----------



## I Fish (Sep 24, 2008)

jjpugh said:


> i cant find any info on removing this seam and replacing. has anybody done this before kinda leary about taking it apart without knowing i cant put it back



I've never done that, so not much help. I'd think it would just be a matter of drilling out the old rivets, removing any sealant, replacing the sealant, and re-riveting it back together.

Have you tried the iBoats forums? That's where I'd look for this answer.


----------



## Meerkat (Aug 10, 2008)

Your stripped boat looks like mine did 3 years ago & I can tell you that when I was in the middle of it I had my doubts as to what I had gotten into but now that it is done I am sure glad I did it. I can go out all day in rough water and it still does not leak a drop!

Mine was a Fishmaster 176 (one version smaller than yours). A couple of things I found. 

My frame was cracked which was allowing the boat to flex and loosening the rivets. Had it tig welded and put additional reinforcing brackets in the corners and between the frame and the bow.
When re-riveting, do not use the $30 pneumatic gun you can get from Lowes. You need to spend ~$150 on an aircraft type rivet gun. The cheaper guns will harden the rivets and they will break. I got mine from aircraft spruce and then sold it for $100 on ebay when I was done. They also sell a variety of bars to rivet against.
Someone mentioned gluvit. I did all my seams & like I said - no leaks after 2 years.
When I replaced the foam I went with structural foam which is just one notch up from floatation foam but I wanted all the strength I could get for the pounding from the Lake Erie chop. Also when you pour the foam, everything needs to be at 80 degrees. It will set at lower temps but the expansion will be different. I did my foam like I Fish but I wish I had thought of the plywood wrapped in plastic!
I went with all new marine ply for the decking and I epoxied it both sides, on the edges, in the pre-drilled holes, etc, etc.
I glued the deck to the frame with 3M structural adhesive & then screwed it down.
The grey vinyl starcraft used for the deck covering is the same stuff that Cabelas sells. It is an exact match.
Hope this helps. PM me if I can help more. I do not have too many pics but I do have records of where I got everything.

Good Luck,

Joe S.


----------



## 420smallie (Mar 7, 2012)

Looks like a lot of work JJ, keep it up.


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

after ordering stuff for this project waiting 3 weeks for it to come in wrong and then send it back for an exchange just to wait 3 more weeks for the same product i sent back. I WILL NEVER SHOP AT CABELAS AGAIN


----------



## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

jjpugh said:


> the more and more i dig into this and check cost of stuff i need ill be accepting donations from anyone with to much money


I'll bring my Starcraft over for you to practice on and even pay you $6.75 an hour so you can save up to do yours. NOW, thatsa offer you cannot refuse...............isit????????


----------



## Meerkat (Aug 10, 2008)

That has got to be frustrating! You have my sympathy!

How is the rest of the project coming? If you are working on the deck vinyl, sounds like you must be just about done?


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

im actually just getting done putting gluvit on the inside of the boat. but im trying to buy everything i need so i can keep going every chance i get. which im glad i am cause if i was on the flooring project now and didnt have it i would be way worse upset than i am. and hey shortdrift if i started working on your boat then we will both have boats that are never gona float again. and $6.75 wouldnt even cover the beer im drinkin to deal with the stress of this project. :bomb::beauty:


----------



## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

Josh - I think you just need to take a day off and go to the range with my friend Kurt and light up a car with his .50 cal! That'll reduce your stress level but might drain the pocket book even more!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

Hope it all works out for you! 
I rebuilt my Sea Nymph some years ago over the winter. I gutted it down to the shell and started over. It took 3 months to finish and basically was a new boat when I was done. The blue boat isn't mine but photos I found online that shows what it looked like before. (only in red) Also mine had a plain console.
By moving the front seat back a foot, I was able to add a front deck with storage hatches and live well. Also another mount for my casting seat. I added interior lights, sound system, compass and switch panels to the console, and a few other things. It was challenging but all turned out really well. 
Good Luck on your project. It will be worth it when you are finished.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

I had to order my rivets by the pound. 1lb of aluminum rivets = 400 rivets so if anyone is doing the same project I got rivets for sale CHEAP! Ha


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

jjpugh said:


> I had to order my rivets by the pound. 1lb of aluminum rivets = 400 rivets so if anyone is doing the same project I got rivets for sale CHEAP! Ha


I used somewhere around 200 rivits on my Lowe. Each compartment lid took 12 minimum. The battery compartment needed 16, and I couldn't even venture a guess how many the floor required... if I never pop another rivet, it will be too soon....

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## I Fish (Sep 24, 2008)

jjpugh said:


> I had to order my rivets by the pound. 1lb of aluminum rivets = 400 rivets so if anyone is doing the same project I got rivets for sale CHEAP! Ha


Did you check at McMaster-Carr?

Hey Shortdrift, you do realize at $6.75 an hour, you'll end up spending about $7000, right? Seriously, I never dreamed it would take me so long to finish, but, worth every minute in the end.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

for $15 i just figured get um and if i dont use them all ill put them in the glovebox when i sell the boat. cause i know one things for sure. next time Im buying a new boat.


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

jjpugh said:


> for $15 i just figured get um and if i dont use them all ill put them in the glovebox when i sell the boat. cause i know one things for sure. next time Im buying a new boat.


I told my wife the same thing when I finished mine. That will be the last "rebuild" of my career!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

We treat all of our plywood with CPES. Look it up. That stuff is the bomb! After the floors in the lund were treated with 3 coats, we had a spray in Bed liner shot on the floor. It is SWEET! Make sure to leave access to anything you need to see again (fuel tank etc...) soap and a hose are all you need!


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Took some time off for ice fishing which wasn't planned so I'm behind but I got all my rivets in this week. I gluvited the hole inside of the boat. I redid the side pads with new padding and leather. Got all my seat pedestals ground down and refinished. I got a 2 day break now while I wait for gluvit to cure. Sucks heating a garage to 80 in this weather


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

jjpugh said:


> Took some time off for ice fishing which wasn't planned so I'm behind but I got all my rivets in this week. I gluvited the hole inside of the boat. I redid the side pads with new padding and leather. Got all my seat pedestals ground down and refinished. I got a 2 day break now while I wait for gluvit to cure. Sucks heating a garage to 80 in this weather


Yes it does... I started last year with a couple of ceramic heaters. I eventually had to supplement them with a "strategically" placed torpedo heater, and only run it long enough to get the temp up before applying my thinner's and glue so I didn't blow the house up... real P.I.T.A.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Did a water test today before going any further boat still leaks a little. I will say I like gluvit but it obviously is not as fail proof as they say. I coated the crap out of the inside of this boat after replacing all rivets I could find leaking. But I guess I found some more. This sucks


----------



## Marinette Sportfisherman (Apr 13, 2010)

Ive owned 5 riveted alum boats anywhere from lunds, crestliner and starcafts and everyone has leaked a little from the start. Some leaked only when running and some leaked only when stopped.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

I think I got it I replaced all the rivets down the Kiel and it's holding now but that's down pressure I want to put it in water but this weather won't give up


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Anyone know where I can buy these little buttons with vinyl on them that hide screws?


----------



## 420smallie (Mar 7, 2012)

Try PHILCAP


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## Meerkat (Aug 10, 2008)

If you find any please post the information. I tried a couple of years ago to find them and struck out. Hope your project is coming together - hopefully a month or so & we will be out there.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Dave's upholstery in Copley on clev- mass says he will make them for me just bring the fabric I want


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Does anyone know anywhere in ohio I can buy pourable foam I came up short by just a little bit and don't want to wait a week to order it I don't care where in ohio I'll probably drive there.


----------



## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

Almost done here is a quick pick I'll post good pics after I finish hoping to be done before the weekend


----------



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Looks great! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Meerkat (Aug 10, 2008)

Looking good!


----------



## sylvan 17 (May 22, 2010)

Nice job!


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------

