# Casting Tips for fly fisher wanna be



## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

I have been wanting to take up fly fishing for some time. I finally got a starter kit. ( I can't afford the $$$ for anything more at this time.) I am having trouble with learning to cast. I have watched YouTube videos on the subject and a couple DVDs. Among the teachers were Mel Krieger and Left Kreh. I am leaning toward Mel's method. My problem is that I am getting a "crack the whip" sound on most of my casting attempts. I was told by a friend that this will pop off the fly. I could use some tips on how to correct this.

Thanks.


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## LearningtoFly (Apr 2, 2011)

I'm new to fly casting as well so take this with a grain of salt:

According to Dave Whitlock's _Fly-Fishing Handbook _(marketed through LL Bean), your problem is caused by starting your forward cast too soon, before the line has straightened out behind you from the back-cast part of the swing. The suggested solution is to watch your back-cast so you know when to begin the forward cast.

I've done this myself and the above advice helped me out.

I've found Whitlock's book as well as Macauley Lord's_ Fly-Casting Handbook _(also marketed through LL Bean) to be excellent resources when you want a fast answer to a problem. You can find those two books sold as a compilation (with a third book on fly tying thrown in as well) under the name of _The LL Bean Ultimate Book of Fly Fishing_. I wish I had purchased the compilation instead of buying Whitlock's and Lord's books separately.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

Sounds like maybe you are starting your forward cast stroke too soon. If 12 o'clock is straight up, start your cast by moving the rod tip the rear to about 2 o'clock and wait for the line to load rod before moving the rod tip forward to about 10 o'clock. 

If you start the forward stroke too soon, the line is folding over in such a tight loop that it is cracking. Make sure you feel the line load the rod (rod starts to bend) before starting your forward stroke. 



Another way to look at it... Slow down your casting motion.


(edit: the post above mine says the same thing. Guess I could have read it.  )


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

Thanks for the feedback. I'll give that a try. I don't mind the double recommendations. It just verifies the info is good. I'll let you both know how it goes.


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## Patricio (Feb 2, 2007)

its all about timing. after you stop your back cast, repeat the phrase, "cleveland is a great place to live" at which time to start your forward cast.


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## ARReflections (Jan 7, 2011)

I will confirm what the previous 2 posters said about starting the forward motion too early. In fact this morning, I was given a great reminder when I noticed the end of my line did not have an expected splash from the beaded nymph I was fishing.


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## Clayton (Oct 7, 2008)

Patricio said:


> its all about timing. after you stop your back cast, repeat the phrase, "cleveland is a great place to live" at which time to start your forward cast.


So lying to yourself makes you cat better?

I'm kidding, I used to live in cleveland! Fun place, always a lot going on.

_OutdoorHub Mobile, the information engine of the outdoors_


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## mcoppel (May 21, 2011)

Anyone learning or able to help another newbie that's around worthington area? I would love some hands on help and I am also just getting into fly fishing, would also like to find a fly fishing partner.

Matt


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

I got out into the backyard. I was able to implement the suggestions. It really helped. The extra wait on the backcast is *REALLY* counter intuitive to me. It is hard to wait. I can't really feel the rod load, or rather the pressure in my hand from the rod bending back yet. I see I am heading in the right direction. Enough of a right direction to get out to the local metro-park pond. See if my black or brown wooly buggers can entice a bluegill to strike.

First hurdle of many down. I see now why so much is written and covered on casting rather than actually working the flies.


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## Patricio (Feb 2, 2007)

Clayton said:


> So lying to yourself makes you cat better?
> 
> I'm kidding, I used to live in cleveland! Fun place, always a lot going on.
> 
> _OutdoorHub Mobile, the information engine of the outdoors_


well, youre supposed tp say the name of the town in which ou live. and yeah, cleveland sucks(I dont live in cleveland. probably moving next year out of state. leaning towards colorado.


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

I just spent an hour at a local metro park and had a blast. Quite a few mayflies around, so I threw one of those. 1 'gill, 1 crappie, 1 lm bass. Nothing of any size, but fun to catch none the less.


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## Steelhead Fever (Dec 31, 2009)

#1-SLOW EVERY PART OF YOUR CAST DOWN...when you pic up your line, fish the fly out of the waterm and sloooowwwllyyy load your rod, wait on your backcast and finish strong....if you have the right line/timing, you wont need to double haul or several backcasts,,,,keep trying until you find the speed and tempo that fits YOU


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

thanks Steelhead Fever, and others. I am starting to understand. I am wondering if the Shakespeare kit has the wrong type of fly line. It is a level line, at least to me, which is hard for a beginner. I am starting to understand the slow down part and the timing part REALLY makes sense. I just gotta get some more time actually practicing the cast.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

SoliTear said:


> thanks Steelhead Fever, and others. I am starting to understand. I am wondering if the Shakespeare kit has the wrong type of fly line. It is a level line, at least to me, which is hard for a beginner. I am starting to understand the slow down part and the timing part REALLY makes sense. I just gotta get some more time actually practicing the cast.



Understanding this now will help you understand what makes a "fast" rod vs. a "slow/medium" action rod. It is literally the amount of time you wait for the line to load the rod.

I thoroughly enjoy both fast & slow rods. A slower rod will bend a ton more with a fish on, as well as add accuracy to your casts. A faster rod will shoot line farther, faster...a clear advantage in wind or with bulky flies.


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## Patricio (Feb 2, 2007)

Steelhead Fever said:


> #1-SLOW EVERY PART OF YOUR CAST DOWN...when you pic up your line, fish the fly out of the waterm and sloooowwwllyyy load your rod, wait on your backcast and finish strong....if you have the right line/timing, you wont need to double haul or several backcasts,,,,keep trying until you find the speed and tempo that fits YOU


has more to do with the rod than the caster. different rods require different casting techniques and speeds.

to learn proper casting, its always been said one should start with a medium action rod. mind you, in this age of super duper pooper fast actions, true medium rods are now considered slow action rods. people now learn on fast actions, which is why so many have an extremely hard time learning a true slow action rod. and I dont think many ever become really competent casters. 
I've learned to love glass rods and their slower actions, and now only use faster actions when using subsurface nymphing techniques(faster actions are more sensitive and thus transfers the strike better) or throwing larger flies.
as they say, a slower stroke satisfies.


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## fishndaflats (May 23, 2011)

I too have just purchased a starter kit from Walmart yesterday I went and bought different line and seems to cast easier. I am on my 3rd day of it, I am on the clearfork river, and by some fluke I caught a trout. My problem with casting is why am I creating overhand knots in my leader, fishing saltwater I can hold my own, rivers streams I'm lost.
Well back to practicing or tying knots which ever comes first


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## mcoppel (May 21, 2011)

So i ended up grabbing a 99$ starter from Dick's sporting goods, It's a quarrow and not a bad setup, at least I don't so. Sunday I spent an hour with it in a field, besides the wind causing some blowback on the line when I was working on it laying down at the end it was going very well. Definetly could get use to the feel of it loading and unloading. Can't wait to get it out and actually fish with it now.


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## fishndaflats (May 23, 2011)

SoliTear don't mean to jump in your page
But the 12 oclock makes sends and the pop in the fwd cast is exactly what is happening
If anyone near Butler and has time to fish or teach I am willing and able
thanks


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

fishndaflats said:


> My problem with casting is why am I creating overhand knots in my leader



Same issue, slow down your casting motion. You are throwing a loop over the fly as it is still traveling backwards. Look at your fly line as it moves to the rear...it will extend all the way, and then keep going, loading the rod...then you move forward with the cast.


Try one motion at a time, no fly attached. Cast the line all the way to the rear and just let it go as far as it will and then drop to the ground, keeping the rod tip @ 2 o'clock. Then move it forward to 10 o'clock fast enough to cast all of that line the other direction and let it drop as gentle as possible.


It could be a couple other issues (cast out of line, fly too heavy for tippet/leader) but start with getting your casting stroke down first, as that's the most important aspect to a beginner I'd say.


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

I just started last year, and I'm finding it to be my favorite method of fishing. I've heard a lot of people say that fly fishing is very difficult, or takes more work, or is specific to fish types, yadda yadda yadda...but I have to admit it is very relaxing for me.

I spend time out in my back yard practicing, forward cast, back cast, roll cast...without any leader/tippet. I go in my front yard and cast under the trees, between the trees, between the bushes. I think what it comes down to is getting your line in motion. Once you get it in motion, a fluid motion that, after practicing in the back yard, it will just CLICK for you, and you'll be like, "Dang, that's it!" Here's a vid by Lefty Kreh that got me thinking...


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

I like Lefty. I don't have a serious problem with him, but he is talking to people who know the basics. He assumes that you know that before you initiate the forward cast, the line is straight and the momentum of the line has taken the rod and bent it backward to the ideal bend position. But if you don't 'grok' that concept, then you won't understand what Lefty is getting at.

My current issue is that I don't have the experience, or the feeling in my hand to tell that the fly line is straight back and has bent the tip of my rod toward the rear. It is that dynamic that I need to feel. That is what I am interpreting as loading the rod.

I am really enjoying this.


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

I actually got out there for the first time. I would LIKE to say I caught some fish. I would LIKE to say I got lots of bites. I did enjoy myself and I plan to get out again soon and hopefully report on actually catching something. In the mean time, I need to practice the blood knot and some of my other knots.


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

SoliTear said:


> I actually got out there for the first time. I would LIKE to say I caught some fish. I would LIKE to say I got lots of bites. I did enjoy myself and I plan to get out again soon and hopefully report on actually catching something. In the mean time, I need to practice the blood knot and some of my other knots.


Knots are fun...NOT!  The nail knot takes me forever. I'm getting pretty proficient at the double surgeon's knot. The blood knot...tough!


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## SoliTear (Jul 19, 2005)

Here is a vid that makes the blood knot easier. At least is seems easier to tie it this way.


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## mcoppel (May 21, 2011)

This site has awesome java based videos of every knot you need to know.

http://www.proknot.com/html/fishing_knots.html


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

Thanks for the links guys. I like this one too, since you can pause at each stage.

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexfishing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

Is that how you're tying your nail knots sbreech? Running the tag end through a hollow piece?


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

fallen513 said:


> Is that how you're tying your nail knots sbreech? Running the tag end through a hollow piece?


Yup. It isn't as easy as joining 2 loops, but I have 2 flylines that don't have the termination loop. I'm getting OK at the nail knot....What i use instead of a nail is a ball point pen tube that is cut to about 3 inches.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

There is a way to tie the nail knot without passing the tag end through a tube, which makes it easier to tie in the dark. There's a video out there somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

This.


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

fallen513 said:


> This.
> 
> YouTube - &#x202a;Nail Knot&#x202c;&rlm;


Thanks, now THAT was an excellent instructional video. Sitting here at work getting ready to start my shift, wanting to try that knot, and all I can find are some USB and cat5e cables.


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## fallen513 (Jan 5, 2010)

That's the same knot, just tied backwards from the "pass through" method. 

I found it much easier to tie that way. You can also snell hooks with that knot, using the shank as the nail and you just never pull it out. Good knot for trailer hooks, etc.


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## ARReflections (Jan 7, 2011)

Fallen, thanks for that nail knot video! That knot has gotten me into a real knot in the past.


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## rickerd (Jul 16, 2008)

Soli,
You have received great advice so far. I first learned in the late 80s with a fiberglass rod. What helped me get over the hump was to take a fly casting class with about 15 others. The instructor pointed out my poor cast to everyone to see, and my casts were the same as yours. What truely helped me though was when the instructor told me to hold my rod at 2oclock position. He took my line and walked 25 feet of it back and pulled until my rod was loaded. Then he said "do you feel that? Start your forward cast when you feel it again." Keep in mind we were practicing with a piece of yarn at the end of our leaders, not flies. So he pulled my line tight while I held the rod at 2 oclock. Then he asked me to cast forward and he let go at the same time. The line shoots forward and looks like it should.
Another thing to remember is to make your backcast as powerful as your forward cast. In fact if you have a more powerful backcast, and your timing on the forward is correct, all you have to do is follow your momentum forward and drop your arm and rod.
If you need more power in your backcast, try the single or double haul methods.
Also, if you are having trouble feeling your rod load, try a line weight one or two numbers heavier than your rod requires. 
Let us know how your are doing. And remember, when you fly hits the water its time to fish. Forget about your cast good or bad.
Rickerd


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## RushCreekAngler (Jan 19, 2011)

SoliTear said:


> I like Lefty. I don't have a serious problem with him, but he is talking to people who know the basics. He assumes that you know that before you initiate the forward cast, the line is straight and the momentum of the line has taken the rod and bent it backward to the ideal bend position. But if you don't 'grok' that concept, then you won't understand what Lefty is getting at.
> 
> My current issue is that I don't have the experience, or the feeling in my hand to tell that the fly line is straight back and has bent the tip of my rod toward the rear. It is that dynamic that I need to feel. That is what I am interpreting as loading the rod.
> 
> I am really enjoying this.



I'm not an expert by any means - just started flycasting again after about 30 years. What I have found that works for me is to extend my Index finger (the one you would point with) along the top of the grip, pointing toward the tip. On the back cast, you will feel a very slight tug or change in pressure - that's when the line has loaded the rod and it's time for the forward part of the cast. Try practicing on dry land (you don't even need a leader for this) - look back over your shoulder on the back cast and pay attention to what you feel with your finger along the grip when the line has straightened out but not dropped onto the ground - don't worry about the front cast, just the feel when the line has extended and loaded the rod.


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## copperdon (Jun 3, 2011)

A few other little hints that are often overlooked is to not have more fly line out of your reel than what you need. If you are casting, land your fly on the water and look down and see 5 ft of slack, you probably have too much line out.

Also, keep the index finger of your casting hand on the line after the cast - with the line curled under neath your finger. This will help your ability to set the hook and act as a drag at the same time. If you are simply holding the rod without holding the line as well, it makes it tougher to set the fly on a strike because you are dealing with slack to the reel.

Good Luck!


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