# Is there a easy way to seal a leaky rivet?



## monte39 (Nov 24, 2011)

I have one loose rivet from where the previous owner hit a stump. I sealed it with a 3m product but that wore off in a year. It really doesnt let in that much water but I dont want any water getting in.


----------



## FISHIN 2 (Jun 22, 2005)

If you can get to it easily, I would put a little sealant into it and having someone back you up outside or inside the hull, use a fat faced punch and deaden the rivet , making it swell a bit.


----------



## Hook N Book (Apr 7, 2004)

One suggestion is to remove it and replace it with the next larger size. Also, use Dicor caulking on the new rivet to seal it.


----------



## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

I have a couple leaking rivets in my Lund and I think the easiest way for me to fix mine is to purchase a Ranger 621 fiberglass boat

I applied a small bead of marine silicone sealant to the outside of the hull around the rivets and they seal fine. for a short term fix


----------



## fishalot111 (May 19, 2012)

check with a marine repair they might have rivet punch I have two of them had them 35 years check with some old timers they might have one good luck


----------



## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

FISHIN 2 said:


> If you can get to it easily, I would put a little sealant into it and having someone back you up outside or inside the hull, use a fat faced punch and deaden the rivet , making it swell a bit.


 I was a structural mechanic in the marine corps and this is the way we repaired loose rivets in the old f4 jets. have one person hold a piece of metal to the back side of the rivet and use something like a flat punch and put it against the rivet head and tap it a few times with a hammer. if you could find a regular rivet punch it would work much better. we used something they call a bucking bar and put it against the back of the rivet then used regular rivet gun with the rivet punch in it. the bucking bar was nothing but a chunk of metal. the head of a small sledge hammer should work great. if you could find a rivet punch and a drill/driver drill you could use that on the rivet head. check out ebay for aircraft rivet punch, and just rivet punches, and anything that might find what you want.
sherman


----------



## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

Also, Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rivet+punch


----------



## chatterbox (Jan 7, 2013)

Hey Monte39, How goes the battle? Get another pair of hands to hold a sledge hammer against the new rivet. Drill out the old rivet. Get a pc. of round stock (drill rod) and dimple one end to the diameter of the new rivet to act as a pinning tool. Hold pressure on the rivet head and mushroom the rivet. It will swell the rivet shaft as well. Piece of cake. Get ahold of maintenance fastener catalogs to purchase aluminum rivets to length needed. When I put a new transom in my boat, I used this process to replace old rivets. Give me a call if you want help. Get my number from Mike Farmer.


----------



## jeff rod builder (Sep 21, 2014)

There is an epoxy stick (there green and about 6inches long) from Cabalas and you would use a torch and flow it over the rivet. it took care of the leak and hold up and does not wear off.


----------



## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

if you can get to it? stainless self locking nut bolt two flat washers two rubber washers . leak gone.


----------



## da-animal (Aug 19, 2010)

Best way is to weld the leaking rivets.......cheap and never worry about them again


----------



## snagless-1 (Oct 26, 2014)

J-B weld 2 part epoxy.


----------



## rockytop (Mar 19, 2008)

looks like the best fix. http://muggyweld.com/aluminum-boat-rivet-repair


----------



## Doboy (Oct 13, 2008)

"EASY"! he said. FAST, QUICK & easy,,,,,,,* But the area has to be absolutely sanded, cleaned & dry.
I said it before & I'll say it again,,,,,,,,, NOTHING easier that GEOCEL TRI-polimer sealant! It's the stickyest, goowiest, water-proof stuff I've found. Sold by Banners Supply in Y-town, but great price here;*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Geocel-2300...934943?hash=item360f2e6d9f:g:-M0AAOSwvg9XYZbq

I fixed a dozen 'water' items with this stuff.
The transom was ripped in the corner of a 12 ft Starcraft,,,, some new rivets & cover the crack with GEOCEL.
Aluminum boats out the club, shot full of holes,,, 1st fill in hole, let dry,,, then over-coat.
Sportspal canoe dropped on some nails,,, same way.
floating docks & 55 gal barrels shot up,,,,, plug the holes with GEOCEL
I built 2 cellar shower stalls, one 15 years ago,,, the other about 20. Still the SAME caulk,,,, white GEOCEL
THE BEST WINDOW, FASCIA, SHOWER ENCLOSURE & TUB CAULK,,,,, HANDS DOWN!
Does not , shrink, crack, mold, mildew or totally dry,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, geocell

lol,,,,, caution,,,, this stuff is super sticky. Practice before you do a shower or tub!
If you do make a small 'bump', you can smooth it out by wetting a finger and easily rub the area super smooth.
BTW, you can't get the crap off your fingers! You might wanna wear rubber gloves.


----------



## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Drill out rivet replace with s.s bolt nylon washer on each side and a s.s lock nut. Replaced many rivets in boats this way


----------



## pelagic (Jul 12, 2012)

Had a couple that leaked a bit. Tried the 3m and a few other things on the outside but they all wore off eventually. Ended up going with this and it has been holding solid. 

https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-650K-FLEX-EPOXY/dp/B002IZJ6E6


----------



## fishmeister (Jul 29, 2004)

If you don't have access to the back side of the rivet, or if you can't find a second person for tightening with the buck, you can replace it with a closed-end aluminum rivet and a pop-rivet tool.
Drill out the old rivet, and buy rivets that fit the hole. Clean it with a brush. Apply 3M sealant to the hole, push in rivet, pop with tool. 
I fixed over 25 leaking and loose rivets in my boat last year using this method, which I got from an online community of boat restorers.


----------



## fishmeister (Jul 29, 2004)

If you don't have access to the back side of the rivet, or if you can't find a second person for tightening with the buck, you can replace it with a closed-end aluminum rivet and a pop-rivet tool.
Drill out the old rivet, and buy rivets that fit the hole. Clean it with a brush. Apply 3M sealant to the hole, push in rivet, pop with tool. 
I fixed over 25 leaking and loose rivets in my boat last year using this method, which I got from an online community of boat restorers.


----------



## FAB (May 26, 2013)

fishmeister said:


> If you don't have access to the back side of the rivet, or if you can't find a second person for tightening with the buck, you can replace it with a closed-end aluminum rivet and a pop-rivet tool.
> Drill out the old rivet, and buy rivets that fit the hole. Clean it with a brush. Apply 3M sealant to the hole, push in rivet, pop with tool.
> I fixed over 25 leaking and loose rivets in my boat last year using this method, which I got from an online community of boat restorers.



If you have a pop rivet tool or if you don't they are cheap, as stated here get the closed end or (Blind Rivet) they are sealed and waterproof . Just drill out the old rivet insert the new and pop it's done .
Just like fishmeister, I have used this method several times and not had a problem with it. You can usually get the rivets at the hardware, auto parts store or ebay. Just make sure you buy them long enough to go through all layers metal and the proper size for the hole.


----------

