# My Crappie Slip Bobber Setup ----o----J



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

Since some people have been messaging me wondering about my setup I decided to make a mini guide. But instead of just replying to everyone individually, I want to share it with everyone so that everyone can have some fun too 

Just like in everything that you do, I believe that your equipment is vital to your task. I've experimented (and still to this day continue experimenting) for a very very long time now. I found the best combination that works best for me and since I specifically target Crappie, it's where most of knowledge lies. 

First and foremost, you start with your rod. While I like having nice expensive rods and such (I have a few Falcons, a couple St Croixs and a very nice Pinnacle), I believe that an inexpensive rod can accomplish the same thing. I'm currently using an Ugly Stik GX2 5'10" Spinning (one piece) rod paired with a Penn Fierce spinning reel. The color combination is aesthetically pleasing but I think the reel is a tad heavier than I would like. I'd highly recommend a Pflueger Presidential for any rod. 

 

Fishing Line

Any mono line will work just fine, it seems like the Crappie don't really care what you have on. I've experimented with everyone from Fluorocarbon to Nano and everything seems to work just fine. My line of choice at the moment is Mr. Crappie's 4lb test Hi Vis.

  

Essential Tool

I never leave home without this, it's been with me ever since I've been in Ohio and that's 12 years strong. It's the one thing that's made my fishing days a whole lot less stressful, it's the fishing nail clipper . It also has a hook straightener as well which comes in handy a lot. 

  

*Slip Bobber Setup*

1. The first thing that goes on my line is stopper. I use the Speedstop, this kind has been the easiest to use and works without any hassles. I've yet to come across something better. 

 
 

I usually go around twice and no more to have a good balance of "adjustability" and stoppage.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

2. The little bead that comes packaged with the Speedstop goes on next. This is not needed but if it comes with it, why not right?



3. Next up, the bobber. Now, I'm pretty picky about my bobber, usually durability is high on the list. I use smaller ones for close to shore and bigger ones when I'm casting out far, just so that I can see it easily . 

 

Here's a collection of my favorite bobbers for your visual pleasure. 
 

4. After the bobber, comes the bullet weights. My go to right now is the triangle shaped one. The weight I believe is 1/4 once (don't quote me on that, I pick them visually, never paying attention to actually weight). I don't use the crimp style ones because they tend to eat up your already small line.
  

Alternately, you can use the "football shaped" ones. 
 

Or currently one that I've been testing
 

5. Before I go any further, at this point I like to cut off a piece of line that's about 8 inches long.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

6. The bullet weight needs a place to stop right? That's where a two sided swivel comes into play. Any one will do just fine, here's a picture of some I use. 

  

7. Now reattach the line that was cut off in step 5. 

8. This part is purely experimental, not necessary. I like to add glow n the dark beads and one shimmering one. 

 
 

9. Annnnd finally, we add the hook. When I first started, I was using gold Eagle Claw size 2 hooks. But starting 2 years ago, I found that Mr. Crappie size 2 hooks have been my go to. It's slightly angled but also slightly more awesome in my opinion because I land more Crappie 

  

Well, that was a lot of uploading and writing, but I hope in the end, it helps some people here who are looking for some direction. Feel free to add to this thread or even make some suggestions. I love this science!


----------



## yodizzle (May 11, 2014)

Can you shed a little light of the benefits of this setup versus others and will this work with a jig or is it best for live bait?


----------



## Doboy (Oct 13, 2008)

OK,,, so when your 'slip' fishing 8'-9' deep, that type of stopper slides easily through your guides, when you cast?


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

yodizzle said:


> Can you shed a little light of the benefits of this setup versus others and will this work with a jig or is it best for live bait?


This setup is only for live bait, specifically for minnows. My jig setup is very different, but also very simple.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

Doboy said:


> OK,,, so when your 'slip' fishing 8'-9' deep, that type of stopper slides easily through your guides, when you cast?


Very easily indeed.


----------



## FL-boy (Feb 12, 2013)

My biggest question; the knot/stopper at the top...maybe it's because all my rods are "micro guide" rods, but I can't find a slip knot or stopper that passes through my eyelets cleanly and easily. Is your rod different? Or is your slip knot smaller than the typical knot?


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

FL-boy said:


> My biggest question; the knot/stopper at the top...maybe it's because all my rods are "micro guide" rods, but I can't find a slip knot or stopper that passes through my eyelets cleanly and easily. Is your rod different? Or is your slip knot smaller than the typical knot?
> 
> 
> Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire



Although I've used this setup on an Ultralite St. Croix without any issues. I use this setup only on medium action rods that are pretty stiff. I've never had an issue with the stopper getting caught when I'm casting. And I'll say it again, stay away from those string stoppers.


----------



## hang_loose (Apr 2, 2008)

WeaponX, do you have a youtube video on this? I'm coming back after a while to re-read this whole thread again.... The bullet weights kinds have me puzzled. Are you making two extra ties to the swivels?


----------



## freshwater_newb (May 16, 2013)

I'm just seeing this thread, don't have any background on previous discussions you've had about your crappie fishing, so forgive me if I'm repeating a question: Why not a string stopper or a line tied stopper-knot? (You can just link a post of yours if you've already explained this.) 

I have micro guides on all of the setups I use for crappie and have never had an issue with either store bought string stoppers or hand tied stopper-knots. Do they slip on your rigs with the heavy weights you are using?

just an fyi: I had some of that mr. crappie hi-vis line on one of my reels last year, 6lb test and had no issues with it (though I only fished with it for 3 months, it performed well and I had no complaints). BUT, after being stored over the winter, that stuff became like slinky wire. It was completely unmanageable and tangled up every cast and retrieve. I had to cut off long sections of it over the course of the day and had about half a spool of it left by the end. Even sprayed it with line and reel magic to no avail. I'll never spool that stuff ever again. Went out and bought 6lb sufix elite that evening. I'll know by next year how it overwinters.


----------



## Hoover 4 Me (Jul 30, 2013)

I prefer the string style bobber stops over the plastic ones you wrap your line around. The string style are much easier on the line when you have to keep adjusting depth. Just trim the tag ends to 1/8" inch or so and you'll have no problems with it going through the guides.


----------



## gerb (Apr 13, 2010)

i just bought a couple microguide rods and have found a huge probelm getting these tiny knots past them. i tie on a double uniknot fluorocarbon leader down here, and it wont get past the guides. 

that being said, excellent tutorial.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

freshwater_newb said:


> I'm just seeing this thread, don't have any background on previous discussions you've had about your crappie fishing, so forgive me if I'm repeating a question: Why not a string stopper or a line tied stopper-knot? (You can just link a post of yours if you've already explained this.)
> 
> I have micro guides on all of the setups I use for crappie and have never had an issue with either store bought string stoppers or hand tied stopper-knots. Do they slip on your rigs with the heavy weights you are using?
> 
> just an fyi: I had some of that mr. crappie hi-vis line on one of my reels last year, 6lb test and had no issues with it (though I only fished with it for 3 months, it performed well and I had no complaints). BUT, after being stored over the winter, that stuff became like slinky wire. It was completely unmanageable and tangled up every cast and retrieve. I had to cut off long sections of it over the course of the day and had about half a spool of it left by the end. Even sprayed it with line and reel magic to no avail. I'll never spool that stuff ever again. Went out and bought 6lb sufix elite that evening. I'll know by next year how it overwinters.



Every time I need increase the depth beyond 4 feet and I have to cast say ~20 feet, I'm almost certain that after 10 or so cast that the string tie method will get caught on the guides in one way or another. That's why I stopped using them and started searching for a better way and stumbled upon these speedstops. 


I will have to agree with you on the Mr. Crappie line, they are no good after a year of use. Heck, maybe just a season is all they'll take. They have a high memory so eventually they'll start looking like a slinky just as you said. But there are reasons why I don't mind using it. It's great for determining where your line is (Hi Vis), it's cheap and while it's good, it's very strong.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

hang_loose said:


> WeaponX, do you have a youtube video on this? I'm coming back after a while to re-read this whole thread again.... The bullet weights kinds have me puzzled. Are you making two extra ties to the swivels?


----------stopper---bead---bobber---bullet weight---swivel---hook

I hope the above illustrates it a bit clearer. No extra ties, just a tie at each end of the swivel.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

Hoover 4 Me said:


> I prefer the string style bobber stops over the plastic ones you wrap your line around. The string style are much easier on the line when you have to keep adjusting depth. Just trim the tag ends to 1/8" inch or so and you'll have no problems with it going through the guides.


Now here's someone I'd like to spend the day out on the lake with lol. I've actually done the same thing you're doing now with the string stoppers. Eventually they will constantly need to be "re-tightened"or in some cases just lose their "grip" on the line. But hey, if it works perfectly for you than keeping using them


----------



## ron92 (Jan 29, 2009)

Thanks for the post. I have never used the bullet weights, only split shots. That could be why I have trouble getting it to slide thru sometimes. Thanks.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

ron92 said:


> Thanks for the post. I have never used the bullet weights, only split shots. That could be why I have trouble getting it to slide thru sometimes. Thanks.


No problem, when I started Crappie fishing, I didn't even know what a Crappie was. Someone had to show me the basic setup and then I had to branch out from there. I came from Toledo and all I knew there was Walleye Perch and Catfish.


----------



## Enthusiast (Jun 20, 2011)

I learned to tie the stop knot. It isn't a hard knot to tie even if you have bad vision like I do. I use _waxed_ *Dentotape*, which is just large diameter dental floss. I have had no problems with casting this knot through my rod guides. After hundreds of casts the knot might get a bit frayed&#8212;I simply tie a new one.


----------



## Snakecharmer (Apr 9, 2008)

Weaponx - If I understand, you use the 8 inches of line (step 5) to to connect the hook to the swivel?


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

Snakecharmer said:


> Weaponx - If I understand, you use the 8 inches of line (step 5) to to connect the hook to the swivel?


Correct, that's exactly it.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

Enthusiast said:


> I learned to tie the stop knot. It isn't a hard knot to tie even if you have bad vision like I do. I use _waxed_ *Dentotape*, which is just large diameter dental floss. I have had no problems with casting this knot through my rod guides. After hundreds of casts the knot might get a bit frayedI simply tie a new one.


You gotta show us a picture of this lol, sounds very interesting.


----------



## Enthusiast (Jun 20, 2011)

WeaponX said:


> You gotta show us a picture of this lol, sounds very interesting.


Here ya go. Very simple. They don't show a bead. I prefer to add an appropriate sized bead. http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/bobber-stopper-knot/


----------



## Hoover 4 Me (Jul 30, 2013)

WeaponX said:


> Now here's someone I'd like to spend the day out on the lake with lol. I've actually done the same thing you're doing now with the string stoppers. Eventually they will constantly need to be "re-tightened"or in some cases just lose their "grip" on the line. But hey, if it works perfectly for you than keeping using them


They do need snugged back down now and then, not really a problem to me. I have one pole with metal eyes that I had to use once when I didn't realize my crappie pole wasn't in the boat and it hung in those a few times. My other rods with the ceramic eye inserts never have issues like that though. I also buy the thinnest diameter string stops I can find. I'm sure some of the thick diameter stops might catch on the guides. 

It all works as long as you catch fish though.


----------



## slowtroller (Sep 28, 2011)

Very nice write up.


----------



## Oliver (Apr 23, 2014)

WeaponX said:


> This setup is only for live bait, specifically for minnows. My jig setup is very different, but also very simple.


Would love to see your jig setup!


----------



## zack2345 (Dec 22, 2010)

Weapon x.... I have a few questions for ya. Do you catch a lot of crappie with this set up? Have you ever tried using a bullet weight stopper instead of the string ones ? Started using them two years ago and I'll never go back. Second your rig seems way too complicated for crappie.... When I fish for them I'm usually having to re tie at least 5 or 6 times a day. Because of the thick cover there in. So all I ever use is a bullet weight stop, bobber, one single pinch weight, and a hook. That way all I need to retire is a hook and pinch a weight on. So I'm wondering what's the advantage to all the beads and swivels and bullet weight. I'm always open to new tricks.


----------



## Revodrew (May 10, 2014)

Enthusiast said:


> I learned to tie the stop knot. It isn't a hard knot to tie even if you have bad vision like I do. I use _waxed_ *Dentotape*, which is just large diameter dental floss. I have had no problems with casting this knot through my rod guides. After hundreds of casts the knot might get a bit frayedI simply tie a new one.


Try dental floss and a serving knot (bow hunter will know what I'm talking about) super easy to tie after doing it a few times. Very easy to adjust.


----------



## WeaponX (Mar 28, 2012)

zack2345 said:


> Weapon x.... I have a few questions for ya. Do you catch a lot of crappie with this set up? Have you ever tried using a bullet weight stopper instead of the string ones ? Started using them two years ago and I'll never go back. Second your rig seems way too complicated for crappie.... When I fish for them I'm usually having to re tie at least 5 or 6 times a day. Because of the thick cover there in. So all I ever use is a bullet weight stop, bobber, one single pinch weight, and a hook. That way all I need to retire is a hook and pinch a weight on. So I'm wondering what's the advantage to all the beads and swivels and bullet weight. I'm always open to new tricks.


Oh I catch my fair share, last week we maxed out at 120 crappie for 4 people. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "bullet weight stopper", gotta picture of that? For some reason or another, I don't tend to retie much when I Crappie fish, heck, I still have setups from last year. Thinking about your setup up though, I could use heavier line all the way to the swivel and just a smaller one for the lead, might actually work out more if you lose a lot of lines to snags and such.


----------



## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

WeaponX said:


> Now here's someone I'd like to spend the day out on the lake with lol. I've actually done the same thing you're doing now with the string stoppers. Eventually they will constantly need to be "re-tightened"or in some cases just lose their "grip" on the line. But hey, if it works perfectly for you than keeping using them


Yes, I've found that those yellow string bobber stops can loosen up on you a little. The only problem I had with mine Sunday at Pymatuning was when I had a fish on, and there was tension on the line. The bobber stop would hang up at the tip top guide, slide down the line as I reeled in the fish, and I'd have to reset it. I've also been caught in a pinch with a slip bobber, but no stops! All you need is a piece of mono and the ability to tie a uni knot, or what is now called a "Trilene knot", and you can construct a bobber stop out of that.



WeaponX said:


> Oh I catch my fair share, last week we maxed out at 120 crappie for 4 people. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "bullet weight stopper", gotta picture of that? For some reason or another, I don't tend to retie much when I Crappie fish, heck, I still have setups from last year. Thinking about your setup up though, I could use heavier line all the way to the swivel and just a smaller one for the lead, might actually work out more if you lose a lot of lines to snags and such.


Couldn't figure that one out myself. Don't know how you'd get a bullet weight to balance on top of a slip bobber and not have it topple over and sink. And why would you have to constantly re-rig unless you were setting it too deep, and getting into the snags you're trying to avoid? Case in point, Sunday at Pymi. My BIL and I were fishing the "Linesville stumps". This is an area that is loaded up with danger and will eat half your tackle box if you give it a chance! The water we were fishing was usually around 11 feet deep. I messed around with different depth settings until I hit on 8 to 8 1/2 feet deep. I knew it was right when the bites started going like this. The bobber would give one good bounce and then immediately lay over on it's side. That meant the fish were coming up from below.

Crappie, and walleye, like to feed "up". They like to see the bait above them. The water was cloudy, so 4' below the bobber didn't work. Neither did 6'. 8' started producing results. I should mention that I had a white jig at the end of my line and not a hook with a bullet weight or split shot between it and the bobber. So, when a crappie would pick up that jig from below, the bobber would lay on it's side. I've also rigged up the way WeaponX does, and with some kind of weight between the hook and the bobber, you'll usually need to see the bobber go down. Either way works just fine. I also like to have enough weight under the bobber so it is just barely floating. Less resistance for a fish tugging at your bait. This kind of rigging can be as finesseful as you might want.

Did I mention that I love slip bobbers? I came home with about 5lbs of crappie fillets that day! We caught slabbage!


----------

