# Powder paint



## Steelhauler (Apr 7, 2004)

Can anyone tell me if when using a fluorescent powder paint if a white undercoat is required?

Thanks,
Wes


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## AtticaFish (Nov 23, 2008)

Don't have to as long as it is an opaque color. The candy colors are the ones that usually need some type of base coat (or applied to plated or shiny tin heads) to show the color good.

If you do ever base coat the with the candy colors, i would suggest using the pearl color or a mixture of mica powder and clear powder rather than white. I think it looks better and actually believe the finished cured heads are a little tougher with the mica mixture base.


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## Steelhauler (Apr 7, 2004)

AtticaFish,

Thanks for the info. I’ve never used the powder paint before. I’m going to build a fluid bed and give it a try.


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## Flathead76 (May 2, 2010)

Never have used a base for any color of powder paint. Colors always came out true on jigs.


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## AtticaFish (Nov 23, 2008)

Steelhauler said:


> .....going to build a fluid bed.....


I made my own fluid bed as well and used it maybe half a dozen times. It was more bother than it was worth. You can get a nice and even coating dipping straight into the jar as long as you stir and 'fluff up' the powder every once in a while and also use the least amount of heat as possible. You want the head only hot enough to get the paint to stick then put it back over the heat to smooth out the paint. If you get the head too hot when you dip it in the powder, way too much powder will stick. Same thing will happen with a fluid bed, it may be just a little more forgiving.


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## Mrwiggler (Jan 26, 2017)

I haved tried a white base coat , when using the Super white glow, but truthfully i don't think it was worth the time and effort. When using candy paints, i always took a little extra time to wipe off my jigs, prior to applying the candy pain, and it made the lead look like it was polished. Really made the candy paint color stand out. You'll find the main issue when applying the paint is the proper heat. With a little practice, you'll get it down pat. Better to not have it not hot enough, as too hot. You can always reheat, and re-dip, but when it's too hot, it will result in too much paint. You'll get the hang of it quickly....don't give up ! I have painted 1000's, but sometimes i'll mess up. I got a jar of thinner, and i just let the jig set it it awhile, and most of the paint will come off. Good luck...have fun ! Another pointer is to look for a small electric oven, and follow the directions for curing.....makes for an almost chip proof, hard finished paint job. Forgot to mention...hold the jig by the eyelet, with needle nose pliers when dipping. The pliers will cover the eyelet, and not allow paint on it, so your not cleaning eyelets after painting.


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## nitro591 (Dec 16, 2009)

You get a lot thinner coat of paint with the fluid bed. And after curing them in a toaster oven you can't chip the paint if you tried. I don't usually do a base coat but I'm really in to putting the UV blast top coat on everything. I do several thousand jigs every winter. Using the fluid bed is a must when doing jigs in bulk.


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## ldrjay (Apr 2, 2009)

nitro591 said:


> You get a lot thinner coat of paint with the fluid bed. And after curing them in a toaster oven you can't chip the paint if you tried. I don't usually do a base coat but I'm really in to putting the UV blast top coat on everything. I do several thousand jigs every winter. Using the fluid bed is a must when doing jigs in bulk.


Actually it still chips. Waste of time from what I see. Fish don't care as much as the rod holder lol. I also paint 4 to 6 thousand a steelhead season and don't use a bed at all I have it down that every time I need a break I just shake the jar and continue.


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## Steelhauler (Apr 7, 2004)

Thanks for all of the info guys. It's greatly appreciated


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