# Kayak anchoring in rivers? Help



## fishfray

I know this is a very controversial topic and that many people feel that it is too dangerous. I just would like some advice from those of you who have done it. I want to be able to anchor my kayak in very slow current in the deeper section of a river (lower Maumee). I know it can be done safely, especially at the low water levels that we are experiencing now.

First of all, what kind of anchor would be best? I have a 3lb grappling anchor but im assuming this will snag on the rocky bottom. Would a 5lb rubber coated dumbbell work? any suggestions would be great? 

Is it safer to anchor off the bow or the stern? It would be easier to fish while anchored off the stern but i understand if there is a serious safety issue. I dont have an anchor trolly. I can anchor off the bow or stern but i cant switch sides while on the water. I do have a system of clips and a zig-zag cleat. I have 100 ft of anchor line, probably too much for anywhere around here.

Thank you for any advice that you could give. I am wanting to fish the maumee white bass run, so there wont be many other boats on the river. I just want to keep it safe.


----------



## Bubbagon

I do it. And feel it can be done safely.

Here's my set up. I describe my anchor at minute 2:30:


----------



## shwookie

I think the barbell is much better than the grappling hook. I use a 2 or 3 lber.


----------



## KTkiff

I have anchored in the lower Niagara with no issues. Just make sure you have some type of quick release. I don't have an anchor trolley, I clip a carabiner to to a pad eye on either my bow or stern, depending on the situation. On the carabiner I have a pulley that I run the anchor line through. I then clip a figure 9 carabiner onto my side handles. I just tie off to that. I can literally undue it in a second if I have to.


----------



## LimaFlyMan

I took a 10 lb dumbbell and cut it in half using hose clamps to mount a couple of 2" steel rings to the shafts. I use carabiner clips to connect my anchor line to the anchors and 2, 100' chalk lines that come in a reel (found at Menards). I took the chalk line apart and untied the not holding the line to the reel and just reeled the line onto itself inside. That way if I'm in trouble I can just release the handle on the reel itself and all of my line will come out automatically. I know others are using downrigger balls as their anchors which also helps prevent snags on the rocks.


----------



## Bubbagon

BEST advice I ever got on anchoring in rivers, and it still hold VERY true:

"If a 3 lb dumbbell can't hold you in place, then you are anchored in too fast of water to be safe."

Anything heavier or "grabbier" really has potential to put you in a very bad situation.


----------



## adelmo

How much line and ga for 3# dumbbell anchor?


----------



## Bubbagon

I only carry about 12-15 feet of anchor line. Anything beyond that just gets in the way for me. But my rivers are mostly 10 foot max depth.
As far as line gauge, I think mine is 3/8th inch braided rope. It doesn't need to be that heavy at all, but the heavier rope is easier for me to grab onto to pull up the anchor.


----------



## Boostedawdfun

Here is my setup. 
5 lb dumbbell
Anchor trolly
50ft of paracord


----------



## Bubbagon

Boostedawdfun's set up is great for flat water.
If your question is about safely anchoring in flowing water particularly, then you definitely want a system with a quicker release that shown above.
Anytime the anchor line is wrapped around a cleat, etc...it will be impossible to free yourself if you get into real trouble with your anchor stuck, and the force of moving water pushing against your boat. Your only chance of freeing you and your boat at that point is to cut the anchor line with a knife...which brings in a whole new set up problems when you're frantically trying to get yourself free with a knife in your hand.
A clam cleat, or dual roller like I have is the equivalent of "cutting the rope" when you get stuck.


----------



## Boostedawdfun

This is what I have. Shows a fixed and quick release way of using. Hope this helps. 
Make sure you use a float like they show to retrieve if released. 
[ame]http://youtu.be/E3KX6nHhOWw[/ame]


----------



## shwookie

Boostedawdfun said:


> This is what I have. Shows a fixed and quick release way of using. Hope this helps.
> Make sure you use a float like they show to retrieve if released.
> http://youtu.be/E3KX6nHhOWw


Rube Goldberg would be proud.


----------



## fishfray

Thanks guys this is just what I needed to know


----------



## StuckAtHome

My thoughts exactly, in rivers where you need to anchor to stay still is exactly where you shouldn't anchor. 
I tried a drag chain in my coosa, but removed it because if it ever caught you're going swimming. You won't believe how fast it happens when it goes wrong, even grabbing a knife you won't have time for, it's amazing how fast a kayak turns into a sub when one end is held by a anchor in current.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Ohub Campfire mobile app


----------



## Boostedawdfun

His main question is about anchoring in the pools of a river where there isn't a fast flow. I don't see why there is any problem with that at all.


----------



## fishfray

Yes this will be in the lower river, it is practically at lake level so current is minimal. I won't use more than a 3 lb dumbbell and I can release my anchor in a few seconds if needed


----------



## pasta

I have seen an anchor cause a fellow paddler a serious problem. She was in a class "2" chute on a river north of Columbus when her anchor line slipped out of its cleat and caught on the rocks. Her line was tied to her kayak and even though she had a knife all she had time for was a quick curse before flipping out of her boat. She was pretty bruised up and after finding her gear we may have made fun of her a little.


----------

