# Painting newb questions....



## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

So, I've gotten my hands on a fairly large amount of PVC foam board so I could start making some baits out of it. I've made some out of wood, but just used wood stain for my coloring. Now I'm going to start turning this PVC into flatside crankbaits and jointed swimbaits and will want to paint these. I'm not wanting to invest in an airbrush yet, and was snooping around hobby lobby today and found the testors createfx rattle cans. Questions are: will these be fine for basic shad/crawfish patterns? Will I be o.k. just using a basic clear top coat instead of epoxy since I'm not using wood and max protection isn't an issue? Should I prime the PVC before painting (currently white) or will it take the paint fine as is? What primer if needed?

Now, once I get my design the way I like it, and get more comfortable working with balast weights and such... I do intend on getting an airbrush. I saw them today ranging in price from $120-$200. Is there an advantage to gravity feed? I see guys mention that a lot. And would an airbrush hookup to my current craftsman 2 gallon air compressor? Or should I purchase one of those small compressors that was on the shelf with the guns? WHEW!


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

I don't see why spray cans wouldn't work for basic patterns. The problem I could see with using them, is getting a nice fade between colors. Or if you were trying to use nylon netting to replicate a scale pattern. I'm not sure if you'd need primer or not. The only time I use primer is when I'm painting some type of metal. I've never had a problem with paint sticking to properly preped plastic.

As far as air brushes go. I have a couple of single action Paasche air brushes that are siphon feed. While I've never used a gravity feed air brush, I'd imagine that a gravity feed air brush could be used with lower air pressure. But I'm not sure about that. I'd love to try a double action air brush, but I just don't do enough air brush work to justify the added cost. The single action works fine for what I use it for, and it came with 3 different tips. The same set now, retails for around $95.

I run them off of my dual torpedo air compressor that I used to use for a carpentry business I had. 

Rather than describe my whole set up, I'll just post a pic. The box looking thing is for suspending the baits over a heat lamp to cure the paint.

If you have any questions about whats in the picture, feel free to ask.

After looking at the pic I guess I should have turned the rack thing so you could see it. It slips over the top of the box, and has 1/16" steel cable running side to side. 2 sets, 3 lines to a set. I made it for hanging spinnerbaits and jigs, but it works well for crankbaits n such. I just have a spacer made of 1 x 4 that goes between the box and the rack, for added height, that is not in the picture. I hang the hard baits from the tail hook hanger with bent out paper clips.

Oh, and I just use a couple of light coats of automotive clear coat to finish my baits. I need to start using a clear epoxy for my jigs though, because the clear coat just doesn't stand up to rocks.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

I basically want to use the spay cans while I'm playing with templates and weighting. Not worried about too much detail in the paint, just want to shoot some color on it for testing, that's decent enough to get some use out of it. 

Now for the airbrush, do all the paints need to be cured over heat? Or is that more of a "speed up the process" thing?


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## Bassbme (Mar 11, 2012)

Createx recommends curing the Auto Air colors with heat. It's not required, but it is recommended. They recommend using an infrared heat lamp, but you can also use warm air.

It's not to speed up the curing process, it actually causes a chemical reaction in the paint. The following is from their product information, and technical guide.

"What does heat do? The heat causes the binder to cross-link, which means it has cured. Cross linking is similar to a urethane catalyzing. The application of heat to the colors when they are drying or soon after they have dried creates a reaction inside the colors in which the individual acrylic polymer strands link up with one another (crosslink) to create a strong, uniform mesh. The heat source may be a hot air gun, heated/infrared lamp, heated spray booth, etc. The heat curing process is recommended, but not always necessary. We recommend that the colors be cured with heat prior to masking or clear coating.

Simply exposing the colors to heat for a short duration while they are drying or soon after the have dried will work. The heat does not have to be excessive. Heating the colors so they are warm and dry to the touch will work well."

Oh....... and in reading the booklet, they do suggest the use of an adhesion promoter for use on plastic. But I never have on any hard bait I've painted, and I haven't had any problems at all with paint cracking or any other paint problem. 

The stuff is awesome, and they have a bunch of different types of paints and colors. Translucent, opaque, candies, metal flakes, pearls, color shifting, color hi lites. You name it, they pretty much have it.


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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Bassbme said:


> Createx recommends curing the Auto Air colors with heat. It's not required, but it is recommended. They recommend using an infrared heat lamp, but you can also use warm air.
> 
> It's not to speed up the curing process, it actually causes a chemical reaction in the paint. The following is from their product information, and technical guide.
> 
> ...


Good info! Thanks!


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