# Photo/Foiled Mack and Herring.



## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

I tried a new method of printing images on tissue in an effort to get a sharper rendition. I spray glued the tissue to the foil *prior* to printing. Then I scotch tape that, top and sides, to a piece of regular paper, a couple of inches down from the top, so it will feed into my old HP 722 without jamming. With the glue and the foil backing up the tissue, the ink "stays put" rather than shooting through those pesky micro holes.
These two are nearing completion. The natural lighting was bad as we've been in a dark rainy cycle since June.


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## triton175 (Feb 21, 2006)

Those look very nice, and that's an interesting method. I have a few questions:
What do you mean by tissue? I assume you mean the packing material type, not kleenex.
How do you make the pattern to be printed?
Do you attach only the tissue to the lure or tissue+Foil?
Thanks
Brian


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## hazmail (Oct 26, 2007)

Good thinking Husky and great result. pete


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## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

triton175 said:


> Those look very nice, and that's an interesting method. I have a few questions:
> What do you mean by tissue? I assume you mean the packing material type, not kleenex.
> *Yes, I use the packing tissue that is used to stuff packages and wrap breakable. *
> 
> ...


*
I hope that helped.

Mike P*


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## triton175 (Feb 21, 2006)

Great idea. I'll have to try it.
Doesn't the printer ink run when you put the epoxy on?


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## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

triton175 said:


> Great idea. I'll have to try it.
> Doesn't the printer ink run when you put the epoxy on?


Not even a little! Just make sure you allow the spray glue to dry totally before printing. Also take care to get the tissue to lay flat, sans any wrinkles on the foil and the foil tissue combo to lay flat on the regular paper.

The first few steps have changed, (See above) but follow the process from #6


6. Spray the back of the Foiled Images with adhesive (Foil tape has its own) and glue them on your lure. It helps to align the Images before gluing them on so you can get them positioned correctly. "Measure twice, cut once". (This means if you need glasses, wear them for this step. I still make that mistake at times. ) Work them in GENTLY, from the centers out. Use your finger tips to do this work so not to damage the thin tissue. With a little practice, this process becomes very simple. Once the Images are totally in place, burnish them on with a round smooth object to get all the remaining wrinkles out. Again, go gentle as not to tear the Tissue. A Sharpie works great for this. Heres a Foamie Herring getting the treatment.










7. Let the Adhesive dry, totally. (Foil tape needs no waiting period) Once dry, coat the lure with Etex or Devcon. I prefer Etex as it is thinner and I have a half gallon of it. If you use Devcon, it would help to thin it a bit, but isnt absolutely necessary. The moisture in the FIRST topcoat will make the Tissue transparent allowing the foil or painted finish to come through. Whatever is printed on the image will remain, giving a very realistic effect. 










8. When the first coat is cured, Paint the back and belly. You people using air brushes can get a very nice transition. When the paint is dried, give the lure another Top coat. After that sets, I add my lips. This plug was done with Rattle Cans. 








The results of this endeavor were;
http://www.stripersonline.com/surfta...light=weakfish




I set the photo to print on the bottom most of the sheet so I can run it through again for another job or two.


People, feel free to ask any questions you may have.


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## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

triton175 said:


> Great idea. I'll have to try it.
> Doesn't the printer ink run when you put the epoxy on?


Not even a little.

Here are the rest of the steps.


6. Spray the back of the Foiled Images with adhesive (Foil tape has its own) and glue them on your lure. It helps to align the Images before gluing them on so you can get them positioned correctly. "Measure twice, cut once". (This means if you need glasses, wear them for this step. I still make that mistake at times. ) Work them in GENTLY, from the centers out. Use your finger tips to do this work so not to damage the thin tissue. With a little practice, this process becomes very simple. Once the Images are totally in place, burnish them on with a round smooth object to get all the remaining wrinkles out. Again, go gentle as not to tear the Tissue. A Sharpie works great for this. Heres a Foamie Herring getting the treatment.










7. Let the Adhesive dry, totally. (Foil tape needs no waiting period) Once dry, coat the lure with Etex or Devcon. I prefer Etex as it is thinner and I have a half gallon of it. If you use Devcon, it would help to thin it a bit, but isnt absolutely necessary. The moisture in the FIRST topcoat will make the Tissue transparent allowing the foil or painted finish to come through. Whatever is printed on the image will remain, giving a very realistic effect. 










8. When the first coat is cured, Paint the back and belly. You people using air brushes can get a very nice transition. When the paint is dried, give the lure another Top coat. After that sets, I add my lips. This plug was done with Rattle Cans. 








The results of this endeavor were;
http://www.stripersonline.com/surfta...light=weakfish


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## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

triton175 said:


> Great idea. I'll have to try it.
> Doesn't the printer ink run when you put the epoxy on?


 I made a detailed reply but the Mod has yet to approve it. The ink will not run or smear once dry.


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## TIGGER (Jan 17, 2006)

Mike that is really neat! I want to try that some day
John


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## Husky (Dec 19, 2007)

TIGGER said:


> Mike that is really neat! I want to try that some day
> John


Hey John, can you get the Mod to release my partial tutorial out of quarantine? In it I described the remainder of the process. 
 Gee, I get thanked for posting, and then my post goes into Limbo. What happened to that Buckeye hospitality?


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