# walleye rod/reel/line question



## dday

went out walleye fishing yesterday and was competely not set up correctly. was my first time on lake erie for walleye, and i definately had the wrong gear. we were drifting and using worm harnesses, bottom bouncers, erie dearies, etc....

my main question is what rod and reels do you use, and what type of line for erie (we were in western basin). my 7 foot rod and spin reel didnt' work cause it couldn't hold enough line in my reel to hit the bottom!!!!

Thanks!!!!!
dday
(the only guy without a walleye caught yesterday)


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## krustydawg

When drifting I use a 6 ft. medium action rod with 6 lb. fireline, if using a weapon / mayfly rig. If I am using bottom bouncers, erie dearies etc. I will tie a 10 lb. leader of mono so if I get snagged I can break it off. It's not how much line you have on your reel, it's how much weight is on the end of it to get you to the bottom. Yesterday was a bit choppy so I assume this was the issue you were having. Also drift socks on the boat to slow the drift down a bit will help out also.


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## saugmon

For regular casting:

1) 7',very sensitive/stiff action spinning rods. Bass pro,cabelas.Some very nice/sensitive rods for well under $50. 


2)Quality spinning reels also a must. I only use Shimano,and love the spirex 1000 and 2000 fd reels. Very smooth,balanced,and you'll notice a difference after 8 hrs of casting.The trigger is what I love about it. Flip the trigger,and the line is on your finger for a cast.No opening the bail with your other hand. I never had no trouble with the 1000 size,which is about 100-140 yds or so. If you need more line,then go with the 2000 size.

3) Low stretch line. Fireline,spiderwire. Combine the sensitive/low stretch line with that sensitive rod and you'll feel more of those lite bites. You'll also cast a lot further.

Walleye and Saugeye bite the same. Very light,and usually swim with your lure and you won't even know it. The more sensitive your gear is,the better success you'll have.

I always used 2 rods. One to cast,and another rigged like a downrigger that sits in a nearby rod holder in the back of the boat. A baitcasting setup worked very good for that rig.I used to kill them with this rig,but that was a long time ago. Easier to control the depth you want your bait at.

1) Basic reel,6-7' stiff action rod.
2) Bottom bouncers of varrying sizes-per wind conditions.
3) Worm harness's/earie dearie worm harness's.
4) 3-4' leaders of some good line.

Rig the front of bottom bouncer to your line. Add the leader from bottom bouncer to thharness. Drop the rig straight down to the bottom,reel up a foot or so and keep an eye on your graph to see the depth those eyes are at.Those perch also like that rig,so good luck on keeping enough nightcrawlers.

Used to work very well in very rough conditions,when you're drifting at 2+ mph. I've had up to 3 ozs on before.


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## Shortdrift

A 6 to 6.5 ft medium action spinning rod with a size 2500 reel loaded with 10# Fireline or Power Pro will allow you to bottom bounce, cast, and even troll with smaller crankbaits. Use a flurocarbon leader at least 4 foot long which will serve you well in clear water when casting and also give you abrasion protection when bottom bouncing. Good luck and keep walleye fishing simple.


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## Walleye007

I was having the same problem until earlier this year I bought a St.Croix AS66MLF and a Shimano 2500 Symetre reel with it. Great gear, esp. when you're used to digging old leftover rods out of your dad's garage like me. I spooled it with Fireline (8 pound test) for the first time yesterday and did great out on the Lake. I caught 10 fish - Walleye, Cats, and Sheep. 

You don't need to spend a bundle though. Yesterday my brother was using a $25 ulgy stick ultra light and caught almost the same amount as fish as me. Key word is almost.


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## saugmon

There's some fine,sensitive rods out there for $20. I've gotten some 7' berkley lightning rods for $15 on a walmart clearance.

It's been years since I fished lake erie-casting,but I used to use 7' Eagle Claw Black diamond II graphite rods from Gander Mountain. Caught 1000's on the 2 rods,with shimano reels.

Those shimano reels are still going strong.Some are over 15 yrs old.I can't even wear them out. I've compared the now price of $60 Spirex to a $140+ quantum energy at galyans in columbus a couple years ago. No doubt,the shimano was smoother and a lot less wobble than the quantum.

All my future spinning reels will be shimano.

If anyone looks at spinning reels in a display,hold the reel inbetween fore finger and index finger. Spin the winder with other hand and let the reel balance on those fingers. Notice how it wobbles,smoothness,and how long it spins for.


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## Whaler

You don't always have to get to the bottom. Drop down to the depth the fish are showing on your graph and drift it there. We were fishing 55 feet of water the other day and the fish were at 15 to 20 feet down. Had we been dragging the bottom we would have probably caught Zebra Mussels.


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## ledslinger

the rod you choose relates to the weight of the lures ,depth and the fishing conditions that you need to get in the fish zone---a day with big wind and deep water will need a heavy rod if you are throwing a 3/4 to 1-1/4 oz lure in deep water---most of my rods are st.croix and vary from the primier 5' med to the avid series with a bunch of old legends in between and go to 7' med heavy

2 of my favorites are a graphite 634 and a boron 634 fenwick---my favorite reel is a 2401 or a 2400 shakespeare---now that they are scarce i use a shimano, a pinnacle deadbolt or a diawa 2500---

i only use 8# izorline and never broke a fish off in a tournament --ever---2nd choice is berkely 6#xt ----both lines have good abrasion resistance against the zeebs that nick your line

be safe
mike


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