# Leaf blower bogs down on throttle. Ideas?



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

`


----------



## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)

Sounds like the choke is sticking...or the settings on your carb are off.


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

`


----------



## laynhardwood (Dec 27, 2009)

I am thinking the fuel line in the tank has a leak in it. The fuel line also has a filter attached to it at the end and they break off right at that spot. It is most likely the problem IMO


----------



## chrisrf815 (Jul 6, 2014)

Spray some sea foam in the hole where the spark plug goes, replace spark plug and start. Works for me every time, i got an echo back pack blower that has similar issues some times. I did what you did cleaned spark arrestor adjusted carb mixture screw, new plug. When it acts up i take spark plug out spray some sea foam in the whole replace plug and start it up. Let it run for a little before giving it throttle, sometimes thats the key letting it warm up before giving it throttle.


----------



## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)




----------



## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)

Forgot the first part.


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

Sounds like fuel delivery. I don't know that particular engine but it's acting like a few I've had. Open the throttle and it's like you've lost vacuum and it doesn't pull fuel, it just bogs and stalls if you don't go back to idle.

Sometimes I've been able to compensate by having the choke only partway open but I don't know if you can do that with your motor. Anyway that's just a band-aid approach. Your problem is probably some soft part like the fuel line or a gasket in the carb. They don't last forever and I've been told it's the ethanol in the gas that ruins them.

If your fuel line is sucking air you should see bubbles in it. You might be able to find the right diameter hose at a good mower shop but when I did that with a 4-stroke Troy-Bilt I could not find the grommet to seal at the tank ("obsolete part") so it would drip fuel when tipped the right way.

On the TB, I got a replacement carb for $50 and it was OK for a while but that only lasted for a season before the same problem came up. At that price it would not take long to equal the cost of a whole new weed eater, so time to stop wasting money on a known bad choice. I hated to trash that 4-stroke because it had a nice sexy growl and it didn't make me smell like 2-stroke exhaust.


----------



## DiverDux (May 19, 2012)

Are you using a gasoline/ethanol fuel blend. If so, you most likely need a carb rebuild. Had this problem with several pieces of Stihl lawn equipment. Re-built the carbs and switched to 100% gasoline (no ethanol) and havent had this issue since.


----------



## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

you can buy the complete carb on e bay some under $20 bucks.


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

Where can you get gas with no ethanol?


----------



## DiverDux (May 19, 2012)

Most marinas sell ethanol free gas. Be sure to ask though. I live in Lake County, Chardon Oil sells it at both the Chardon station and the one in Painesville.


----------



## BlueMax (Dec 3, 2006)

Make sure exhaust is not corroded/blocked.


----------



## undertaker (Jan 20, 2013)

I replaced a fuel line in my tank on one of my chains. Kinda sounds similar to your problem


----------



## Steelheader88 (Aug 14, 2008)

So if it idles fine, obviously the idle circuit is flowing clearly and is tuned acceptably. What you are likely experiencing is that as you pull on the throttle (Leaving idle jet and transferring to the main jet) the fuel simply is not there or cannot be taken in great enough quantity. It is time to thoroughly clean the carburetor and all fuel lines and filters (tank internal). Not only are you looking for debris large enough to clog a jet, but beware that carbs have tiny tiny air passages that vent to atmosphere which purpose is to prevent the engine from pulling fuel against a vacuum. These holes are often only 1 or 2/1000th of an inch and are located in jet passages or anywhere else in the carb. It is likely you have debris blocking a pathway or gummies up gas doing the same. Go slow and be thorough.


----------



## Ruminator (Apr 6, 2004)

When my Stihl Weed eater ran at Idle but bugged down and died when I gave it it a little extra trigger, my problem was just a simple matter of the gas having gotten too old.
I was considering carb rebuilds, and because the gas was ethanol gas, I chose to pull it out.

I mixed up some new, and it fired and ran great.
The same solution got my chain saw, leaf blower and power washer all running.

Since then I buy gas with no ethanol. It lasts much longer before going bad, and it won't absorb water into itself like the ethanol gas does.


----------



## dcool (Apr 14, 2004)

Try completely removing the spark arrester. I had the same problem and removed the spark arrester and solved the problem. Since then i only run moto mix from stihl in it. It is a little expensive, but you will never have fuel issues when using it.


----------



## Rocknut (Apr 17, 2015)

I had a in tank fuel line that was soft from sitting in gas. would close down under vacuum. Installed new fuel line and it worked.


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

I strongly suspect it's no mistake that they choose to use materials that don't last ling for the fuel system. Doesn't work? Aww, too bad, time to buy another new one!


----------



## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)

Ethanol really only affects the older motors...how old is this blower?


----------



## Redheads (Jun 9, 2008)

I agree with trying all that was said above..Also there us usually a small vent hole on the gas cap make sure that isn't plugged either. Run a toothpick or paperclip through it or open the gas cap a little and try that.


----------



## Harry1959 (Mar 17, 2011)

If it’s been sitting a while, probably gummed up carb. I always try to put fuel stabilizer in if equipment is gonna be sitting for a couple months. I’d try putting some carb extra strength injector cleaner in the gas and run it, it’s wirt a shot before removing carb


----------



## ress (Jan 1, 2008)

Drain the tank and then prime it enough to empty the line and drain that. Fresh gas and new plug should fire right up.


----------



## M R DUCKS (Feb 20, 2010)

My chainsaw was doing the same thing as you described. I got it to run normal for awhile, with fresh fuel and carb cleaner, and seafoam, and,.... , then next time i ran about a tank through it- refueled, and had the original problem again. Had a new carb put on (cheaper than repair/rebuild). Now I am only running the ethanol free pre-mixed fuel in it. Pricey! That fuel is suppose to last 2 years. Ass-u-me in an un-opened can?


----------



## Doubles (Jan 11, 2009)

I have a model 86 c-e Stihl and had the same issue. It was the exhaust screen plugging up from carbon. Not sure if the bg has the exhaust screen but it’s an easy fix if it is. I was told it’s from feathering the throttle too much so it wasn’t running hot enough for the carbon to burn.


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

`


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

I expect 2-stroke fuel to get gummy in storage as gas evaporates out. So, I spike it with fresh gas. I have a Mantis tiller and an ancient Jacobsen snow blower and both are seasonal tools so they each spend most of a year doing nothing. The Mantis is much easier to start after storage, and the Jake will smoke like a Rastafarian. I need starting spray to get it going. One of these days the cylinder head is going to blow off from doing that.


----------



## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

I have an older Echo weed eater that I can start every spring in 3 pulls or less. I put a touch of Stabil in the gas and oil mixture for all summer. Just a tad.
Then, every fall I put Stabil in the tank and while It's running I dump that out. Then when it starts to die, I start pumping the primer bulb to get the rest of the gas out of there.
Then, leave the cap off the tank for an hour or so. After that, store for the winter.

*Fresh* gas and oil mixture in the spring.


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

At the OSU landscape shop, at the end of the mowing season, they would run the Jacobsen push mowers on straight gas until they quit, then they'd store them until Spring.

Those things were tanks.


----------



## BlueMax (Dec 3, 2006)

"


FOSR said:


> I expect 2-stroke fuel to get gummy in storage as gas evaporates out. So, I spike it with fresh gas. I have a Mantis tiller and an ancient Jacobsen snow blower and both are seasonal tools so they each spend most of a year doing nothing. The Mantis is much easier to start after storage, and the Jake will smoke like a Rastafarian. I need starting spray to get it going. One of these days the cylinder head is going to blow off from doing that.


"Spiking it" is not a bad idea. The "high ends" evaporate first. Does not matter if ethanol (E10) or not. Old gas is not friendly to small engines.


----------



## BlueMax (Dec 3, 2006)

FOSR said:


> At the OSU landscape shop, at the end of the mowing season, they would run the Jacobsen push mowers on straight gas until they quit, then they'd store them until Spring.
> 
> Those things were tanks.


Same would happen if they did this with (E10) fuel. The key is getting the all the fuel out so it does not gum up anything.


----------



## FOSR (Apr 16, 2008)

I should clarify, those mowers were 2-stroke.


----------



## patternmaker mike (Dec 3, 2014)

I had the same issues with one of my Stihl blowers. The older one got touchy like that. Put in new plug and Hp ultra oil mix and only use new 89 octane gas and for late in the season use no ethanol from Strongsville Landmark 89 octane. Use this gas in lawnmower and snowblower. Pay a little more up front or more with grief later.only used the better oil mix in the newer blower from day one 3 years ago. Starts every time. Have had Stihls for 20 yrs plus. Ethanol was a game changer for the bad!


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

`


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Angle makes a difference cause it's usually harder for the fuel to reach the carb when engine is tilted versus horizontal.
I'll give it a guess...a few things to check...possibly partial fuel restriction(fuel filter dirty), pin hole in fuel line or very small pin hole in fuel pump diaphragm...either issues supplying just enough fuel to run when eng. is horizontal but not enough to run at an angle. Also check your fuel cap and if it's vented, make sure vent is clean. If cap is not vented, sometimes there are little rubber, one way inserts that plug into the tank itself that let air in but fuel won't come out. Those can get soft over time and not let tank breathe.


----------



## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

Some of the small Walbro & Zamath carburetors have a very fine screen inside that can get partially blocked with fuzz/lint/or very small debris. I have a 2 stroke Echo blower that was purchased new a long time ago. Gave me some trouble with a leaking fuel issue & an excessively rich condition on startup after the unit had sat unused. Ordered a carb kit & installed the new components only to not have the problem fixed to my satisfaction. I've rebuilt LOTS of carbs over the years & knew that the parts were installed correctly & that the castings were spotless during assembly. Having worked in the service industry basically all my life I've known more than a few people that would simply say a carb was junk since they didn't know how to work on it & properly set the mixture. Pulled it apart a second time & reassembled with the same results. I finally put my pride in my back pocket & ordered a carb based on the advice of a friend who worked on small engines at the hardware store. Problem fixed but here was the bottom line. The kit was around $ 25.00 & a complete replacement carb was less then $ 40.00. I hated letting that little Zamath carb kick my butt but the integral seat had worn to the point that a replacement was necessary. I'd price the rebuild kit & a replacement carb before going too far with the repair. Mike


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

firemanmike2127 said:


> Some of the small Walbro & Zamath carburetors have a very fine screen inside that can get partially blocked with fuzz/lint/or very small debris. I have a 2 stroke Echo blower that was purchased new a long time ago. Gave me some trouble with a leaking fuel issue & an excessively rich condition on startup after the unit had sat unused. Ordered a carb kit & installed the new components only to not have the problem fixed to my satisfaction. I've rebuilt LOTS of carbs over the years & knew that the parts were installed correctly & that the castings were spotless during assembly. Having worked in the service industry basically all my life I've known more than a few people that would simply say a carb was junk since they didn't know how to work on it & properly set the mixture. Pulled it apart a second time & reassembled with the same results. I finally put my pride in my back pocket & ordered a carb based on the advice of a friend who worked on small engines at the hardware store. Problem fixed but here was the bottom line. The kit was around $ 25.00 & a complete replacement carb was less then $ 40.00. I hated letting that little Zamath carb kick my butt but the integral seat had worn to the point that a replacement was necessary. I'd price the rebuild kit & a replacement carb before going too far with the repair. Mike


Had the same thing happen to me with one of my Stihl chain saws.
No way that little carb was gonna get the best of me. Rebuilt it twice just knowing each time saw would run like a new one when I finished carb. ...both times...it didn't.
Ended up buying a new carb for less than what two overhaul kits cost me.


----------



## multi species angler (Feb 20, 2006)

I was told by a Stihl dealer that the stihl 2 stroke oil had stabilizer in it so no need to add any when storing gas thru the winter.


----------



## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Almost all 2 stroke oil you buy for lawn equipment has stabilizer in it.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

montagc said:


> Yep, I messed with cleaning those small carbs but stopped when I realized you could buy the whole carb with fuel lines, filter, spare bulb, spark plug and filter for under $20 on amazon. Had my first experience with blocked stihl exhaust last week. Those screens are small and the mesh is fine, terrible design.


When my screens get plugged...they come out.


----------



## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Ml


FOSR said:


> I should clarify, those mowers were 2-stroke.





Lazy 8 said:


> I have an older Echo weed eater that I can start every spring in 3 pulls or less. I put a touch of Stabil in the gas and oil mixture for all summer. Just a tad.
> Then, every fall I put Stabil in the tank and while It's running I dump that out. Then when it starts to die, I start pumping the primer bulb to get the rest of the gas out of there.
> Then, leave the cap off the tank for an hour or so. After that, store for the winter.
> 
> *Fresh* gas and oil mixture in the spring.


Storing this way and then starting out with fresh gas, oil, and a shot of Stabil in it's gas can, I guarantee y'all I can start this baby on the 3rd pull, every spring. It takes a licking and keeps on....


----------



## fiveeyes (Oct 16, 2013)

Like Lazy 8..marine Stabil+Seafoam, and run them DRY for storage


----------



## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

"Air filter is clear (most of the work was done with it off anyway"
As Bill Dance would say.....".Thats not good " Best way to foul up a carb. Fresh gas, Opti oil and a good dose of SF.


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

.


----------



## firemanmike2127 (Mar 17, 2013)

If it's equipped with an adjustable High Speed needle you might be able to tweak the adjustment just a bit. My first inclination would be to back it out in 1/8 turn increments (richer). If it's a newer machine it probably has a small externally 'splined' head that takes a special tool. Ever since the lovely state of CA implemented the CARB Standards (California Air Resources Board) to reduce the smog out there many of the small carbs have those damn tamper proof mixture screws in them. I find that the new equipment w/ tamper resistant jets are usually set from the factory a bit lean for my liking. Sometimes you can grab them with a small pair of needle nose pliers or a set of hemostats. Hope this helps. Mike


----------



## ress (Jan 1, 2008)

Put a NEW spark plug in.


----------



## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

Bad coil! Failing when it heats up.


----------



## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

Once hot and acting up, can you apply the choke about half way to see if it revs any better?
If it does run better, it's lacking fuel on the high speed jet and like firemanmike suggested, needs turned out a touch.


----------



## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

take a dremmell cutter and cut a slot in the top of the screw even thru the alum so you can put a flat head in it. take screws to closing and count or mark each, then take them out and clean again , sometimes if there is a little goop in the seat you can run screw up and down a few times to loosen sludge.. i think it needs more fuel. one is low speed and other is high speed


----------



## KPI (Jun 4, 2011)

In the exhaust is a screen like material take it out it is clogging up and exhaust is backing up happened to mine i took it out on a shops recommendation because they were backed up and could not look at it for weeks same problems your describing hope it helps it is a emission control but sounds the same don’t worry 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shad Rap (Nov 10, 2010)

Is there a spark arrestor on it?...spark arrestor probably needs cleaned with a wire brush or you can clean it by heating it up with a torch too.


----------



## multi species angler (Feb 20, 2006)

The fuel line could be collapsing and restricting fuel.


----------



## Redheads (Jun 9, 2008)

some gas caps have a little breather hole and it gets plugged easily clean out the hole or try loosening up the gas cap just a little. 
If you have a clear primer ball check to see if there is plenty of gas in the ball while running at higher rpm's


----------



## RiparianRanger (Nov 18, 2015)

.


----------



## Legend killer (Apr 20, 2011)

Are you keeping fresh gas?


----------



## Lewis (Apr 5, 2004)

I think you'll find your answer here.. https://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f258/stihl-sh-85c-loses-power-613868.html


----------



## DiverDux (May 19, 2012)

DiverDux said:


> Are you using a gasoline/ethanol fuel blend. If so, you most likely need a carb rebuild. Had this problem with several pieces of Stihl lawn equipment. Re-built the carbs and switched to 100% gasoline (no ethanol) and havent had this issue since.


Just rebuild the carb!
I have seven different stihl products five of them have been run extensively on E-10 and all had issues with "bogging down." Once I rebuilt the carbs and made the switch to ethanol free fuel they all ran fine, The other two I ran nothing but ethanol free fuel since new and have never had an issue.


----------

