# Bunks for aluminum boat?



## lacdown

The factory bunks on my trailer rotted out last year. When I went to get replacement bunks I was told that the new 'treated' lumber would not react well with the aluminum hull so he just put on regular wood bunks that rotted out after 1 year.

Wondering what options there are... should I try to get composite wood bunks?

Thanks in advance.


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## luredaddy

lacdown said:


> The factory bunks on my trailer rotted out last year. When I went to get replacement bunks I was told that the new 'treated' lumber would not react well with the aluminum hull so he just put on regular wood bunks that rotted out after 1 year.
> 
> Wondering what options there are... should I try to get composite wood bunks?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


They should not rot in one year. That being said, you may want to research it, but I believe the treated wood used today may be OK. I know in the past it was a problem. I put ULTIMATE BUNK BOARDS on a previous trailer and I really liked them.


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## lacdown

Yeah, I didn't fully inspect them by pulling off the carpeting yet but the bolts fell out on the front so I assumed they had rotted out just like when I had to replace the originals. Thanks for the info


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## T-180

Love the ultimate bunks or use treated wood & cover with poly, like they put on the bottom of airboats. Be warned, that poly is slick & it's like a roller trailer.


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## capt j-rod

White oak. That stuff is better than treated. Gotta get into Amish country, but it is the bomb


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## Tom 513

I replaced the bunks on My Tracker trailer last Month, I was at the local Tracker service center and mentioned I was going to replace them with treated 2x4"s and just needed to get carpet, which the sales guy said we sell the carpet my the foot at what was a reasonable cost, nothing was mentioned about how the new treated wood reacted to aluminum, and havent noticed any damage!


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## tomb

All needed materials can be purchased at Lowe's, if you can use regular treated lumber. Use outdoor carpet glued on with 3M spray adhesive and stainless staples.


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## T-180

The problem with carpet & aluminum is that the aluminum "sticks" to the carpet far more than a glass boat does & makes it harder to launch/load. If you go carpet I highly suggest going with the glyde slicks or similar product as it makes a huge difference in the effort to get the boat off/on & much easier to use on those shallow ramps. Same as using poly though, be careful as the boat will slide off the trailer if you unhook the winch strap & hit the brakes while backing up.
White oak is a great option if you can find it nearby. I have a couple pieces that came off another trailer & after several years of light use, that stuff is barely discolored.


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## Frankie G

From what I learned the hard way and now understand, aluminum and the new breed of PT lumber does not mix. The high concentration of copper in the PT lumber and aluminum cause a chemical and corrosive reaction. I would have to agree on the white oak. Seal it on all 6 sides and carpet it. I bet that will last a long time.


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## bountyhunter

your boat never touchs the wood I used treated three years back see problem. and heavy duty carpet made for bunks, got it on e bay.


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## lacdown

Appreciate all the responses and perspectives. I'll see what options Knox marine offers if I still am here in the spring


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## EB1221

Don,t know if your boat is painted or not. Mine is. I used treated 2x6s covered with bunk carpet from cabelas. Been 6yrs
and no trouble.
EB


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## fastwater

This new treated lumber IS NOT good for aluminum. The very reason on an aluminum pole barn you have to at least put tar paper between the aluminum and treated lumber. As long as you have a barrier such as carpet between the two, you will be just fine.


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## Muskeye

Ultimate bunk boards, get em


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## wallyandre

lacdown said:


> The factory bunks on my trailer rotted out last year. When I went to get replacement bunks I was told that the new 'treated' lumber would not react well with the aluminum hull so he just put on regular wood bunks that rotted out after 1 year.
> 
> Wondering what options there are... should I try to get composite wood bunks?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


My friend just replace his with cedar board


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## Nate167

About to do the same with mine in cedar. Cedar can be pricy. I got mine while on a fishing trip in up,mi.


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## eyegore

Instead of using carpet, check out this. I also have to replace my bunks but I'm going to look for cedar lumber and cover with the gatorback product. 


http://www.gatorbak.com


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## MIKIE

When I replaced my bunks I cut holes in the lowest place in the carpet where it wraps around the wood so the water can drain out.


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## Gottagofishn

MIKIE said:


> When I replaced my bunks I cut holes in the lowest place in the carpet where it wraps around the wood so the water can drain out.


Sounds like a good idea. Once I replace mine I usually end up replacing them every three years or 4 years. I have used a variety of products but the results seem to be similar.

I sent my contact at ShoreLand'r an email this morning and I'll let you know what he says in regards to what they use for aluminum boats and what wood they recommend for replacement bunks.
Al


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## MikeC

I'd research glide sticks and painted aluminum before I would put them on.


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## T-180

The ones we used weren't actually Glyde sticks, they were flat, black pieces but I can't remember exactly what the name was. The glyde sticks are grooved & the ones we used were flat & much thinner.Have an extra piece of poly laying around that will be used on the next project. I will not own another tin boat without either them or the poly, it's that good.


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## Gottagofishn

Here is what ShoreLand'r had to say:

"We use Douglas Fir… a soft pine wood. We do not use treated wood because it tends to warp and harden as it dries.

I suspect we also do not use it because we’d have to connect with every boat company out there to see if the arsenic (or whatever chemical that is used) will poorly interact with the hull."


*Doug Clough*
Customer Service Manager


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## billy Hornton

eyegore said:


> Instead of using carpet, check out this. I also have to replace my bunks but I'm going to look for cedar lumber and cover with the gatorback product.
> 
> 
> http://www.gatorbak.com


I was wondering how the Gatorbak Bunks worked out for you? I saw these also and what caught my eye was the fact that they are soft material and not hard. Any advice? I need to do my bunks soon. I just did the carpet bunks last year and they are already worn out, torn, and stinking.


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## JerryA

T-180 said:


> The problem with carpet & aluminum is that the aluminum "sticks" to the carpet far more than a glass boat does & makes it harder to launch/load. If you go carpet I highly suggest going with the glyde slicks or similar product as it makes a huge difference in the effort to get the boat off/on & much easier to use on those shallow ramps. Same as using poly though, be careful as the boat will slide off the trailer if you unhook the winch strap & hit the brakes while backing up.
> White oak is a great option if you can find it nearby. I have a couple pieces that came off another trailer & after several years of light use, that stuff is barely discolored.


Just spray your bunks with regular old silicone spray a couple of times a year and you won't have any problems with sticking. Do keep your strap on until the trailer is in the water.


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## T-180

Been there, done that JerryA. I don't need silicone or dish soap to help the boat slide off & not putting anything foreign into the water. That & it will last a lifetime.


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## JerryA

T-180 said:


> Been there, done that JerryA. I don't need silicone or dish soap to help the boat slide off & not putting anything foreign into the water. That & it will last a lifetime.


Whatever......


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## Bluntman55

My trailer was new in 1995, still has original bunks that are solid as new, they are cut from Heart of Cypress, looks like they will last another 20 years, but in all fairness they are 4 inches thick, 12 inches tall and 17 feet long, one helluva chunk of wood


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## Popspastime

Just go to an Amish sawmill and get some oak 2x planks, brush on some Thompsons water seal, and wrap them with In-Out carpet and staple the edges (Long edges) every 3 inches leaving the ends open to drain..DONE


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## T-180

JerryA said:


> Whatever......


What's that supposed to mean? Not saying your method doesn't work, it does, just saying I don't have to remember to spray my bunks ... relax.


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## brettmansdorf

Consummate Realist... 
I've done a dozen tin boat trailers this way... Do it right this time and never revisit.

You need... 
Drill, Forstner bits, paint, basic tools, saw.
At big box store... 
Purchase 5/4ths deck board (12-16 footer - roughly 10 bucks lets say).
Purchase WHATEVER 12-16 foot poly / composite decking board they have on clearance (in a dozen times - I've never not found it at either HD or Lowes - on clearance - last years or odd color). Again 12-20 bucks.
Purchase the absolute cheapest OIL paint you can find (again - beloved clearance)...
Purchase some basic fasteners - your choice, but SS works best. You need a dozen screws to secure the composite board to the deck board, and you need fasteners to secure the deck board to the trailer/mounts.

Perhaps 40 bucks..

Use the forstner bit to drill the decking (5/4) so the fasteners sit flush, then a regular bit to go through. Paint the board (after drilling) Attach the board - and paint again - over the fastener and generous on the ends. If you want to get fancy - include a bit of silicone onto the fasteners through the holes...

Once that is done - determine where you want the attaching holes for the composite decking (corners and then some in the midst). Use a small forstner bit and make it so the fasteners are 1/8" below the surface. IMPORTANT - predrill the holes for the screws (1/2 the size is ideal) and then glob the screw with either cement or silicone and attach. In a perfect world - you will attach plugs (screw holes) and silicone them in place.

I hear it all the time - but the truth is this... If you need to take it apart (about 20 yrs), then you will likely hole saw the composite (around the screws). As for the sealant on the bolts - who cares - you'll have to use an impact or breaker bar when you go to remove - if you ever need too.

I did a boat in 2012 this way - its used to test water quality in holding ponds by a vendor of the state. That boat is used 362 days a year and is launched at least 4 times a day. No issues to date - and she has slid off and on that trailer over 5000 times to date.

The composite or poly boards are slick. I've heard rumor of some which react with aluminum - but I have tended to buy the low-end (usually the cheapest) and never had a problem. Some are grooved on the bottom - flip those - great for escaping water... 

Just my $.02


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## Popspastime

It's December.. ! These things aren't done yet? Tell you what.. for $13,345.99 I'll do it for you while you wait.


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## TheShoreman

Treated wood has CCA (copper chromate...) it will galvanize aluminum if wet and prolonged contact the end result would be aggressive corrosion. The smartest would be to buy CCA free wood or the suggestion of poly was a great idea. I wouldn't trust anything like CCA near aluminum touching or not.


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## ezbite

Go to tinboats.com lots of great info over there and no don't use treated wood.


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## D J

Locust is another good option for rot resistant wood, if you can find it. You often see locust used for fence posts. Also, the previously mentioned white oak works well to since the sap clogs the pores in white oak. Don't use red oak as the pores stay open and will act like a straw and suck up water. Cedar is pretty soft, but could work since it is rot resistant.


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