# Heating mold?



## Star1pup (Aug 3, 2004)

Years ago we found out that heating the jig mold a little helped the lead flow better. Does anyone do this?


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## 47dipseydivers (Jan 21, 2011)

I most certanly do it seems to help quite a bit

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## roger23 (Mar 7, 2007)

The new molds have heating slots in them


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## "Big" mark the shark (Jan 21, 2010)

yes learned that years ago.


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

I always heat my molds. Also a mold release agent wll make things flow 100% better.


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## Star1pup (Aug 3, 2004)

We used to have a small electric hotplate and we heated the mold on it before pouring. Maybe now I can just hit it a bit with a heat gun.


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## Star1pup (Aug 3, 2004)

cadman said:


> I always heat my molds. Also a mold release agent wll make things flow 100% better.




What are you using for a mold release?


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## 47dipseydivers (Jan 21, 2011)

I always set mine on top the lead pot 

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## socdad (Jul 25, 2005)

Do-It Molds makes one 

http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=4_188_2069

I have simply used a candle, a thin layer o soot has worked for me for the past 50 years or so


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## Downriver Tackle (Jan 13, 2009)

47dipseydivers said:


> I always set mine on top the lead pot
> 
> _OutdoorHub Mobile, the information engine of the outdoors_


 Exactly! I also pour 2 rounds through the mold with no hooks or hardware before I start to pour good product. That process seems to work best and minimizes imperfections.


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## Downriver Tackle (Jan 13, 2009)

All but specialized paintable mold releases destroy paint adhesion because they're wax, teflon, or silicone-based. Ever notice any chipping problems using them?


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

Star1pup said:


> What are you using for a mold release?


I have use a mold release for 2 years now, and I wouldn't pour without it. I have over 100 molds and some molds are more troublesome than others. The mold release helps 100% to get better and complete pours. I use "Frankford Arsenal" Drop Out mold release. Paint has never been an issue as to not adhereing to the jig. I sell 1000's of jigs and never had any complaints.


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

socdad said:


> Do-It Molds makes one
> 
> http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=4_188_2069
> 
> I have simply used a candle, a thin layer o soot has worked for me for the past 50 years or so


That's exactly what I use, it has no oils or anything else that can conflict with paint. BTW you can buy it for about $1.50 cheaper than Do-It has it.


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## Downriver Tackle (Jan 13, 2009)

cadman said:


> That's exactly what I use, it has no oils or anything else that can conflict with paint. BTW you can buy it for about $1.50 cheaper than Do-It has it.


 Interesting stuff. Graphite and moly. Do you spray your molds every pour? Anyone using vinyl or any other non-powdercoat paints directly over it?


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## Star1pup (Aug 3, 2004)

As for heating the mold I now sit the mold on top of the lead melter and it seems to work fine. Got the info for that technique here. Thanks.

The mold release I saw advertised required a heavy shipping fee as a hazardous product. My local stores would need to order a full case to get any. I wonder how One Shot case lube would work. The problem is getting something on the jigs that will keep them from holding paint, either vinyl or powder.


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

Downriver Tackle said:


> Interesting stuff. Graphite and moly. Do you spray your molds every pour? Anyone using vinyl or any other non-powdercoat paints directly over it?


Downriver,
I only spray it once on a cleaned mold (cleaned with mineral spirits) you could use pretty much anything to clean it as long as it doesn't leave an oily film. I've used, lacquer thinner and naphta as well. Once you spray it on it will last for at least 500 to 600 pours per cavity. I spray on additionally when the mold shows silver again. What I mean by this is, that when you spray it on, it will be a dull gray. Once the gray starts to wear off, and you see the raw aluminum from the mold again, it's time to re-apply. You can apply sooner, however more doesn't make it better. You will notice the difference right away once you use it the first time. It's like putting eggs on teflon. The lead will just flow freely with this stuff. Not to say that this will solve all of your problems.


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## cadman (Jan 25, 2009)

Star1pup said:


> The mold release I saw advertised required a heavy shipping fee as a hazardous product. My local stores would need to order a full case to get any. I wonder how One Shot case lube would work. The problem is getting something on the jigs that will keep them from holding paint, either vinyl or powder.


You can buy it at Barlow's, Jann's and Zeiner's. I buy all of my molds and pouring stuff from Zeiner's. If you call them on the phone, there mold price will be cheaper than what is advertised on their website. Good company to deal with, and great service. Speak to Jim Zeiner.


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## Downriver Tackle (Jan 13, 2009)

cadman said:


> Downriver,
> I only spray it once on a cleaned mold (cleaned with mineral spirits) you could use pretty much anything to clean it as long as it doesn't leave an oily film. I've used, lacquer thinner and naphta as well. Once you spray it on it will last for at least 500 to 600 pours per cavity. I spray on additionally when the mold shows silver again. What I mean by this is, that when you spray it on, it will be a dull gray. Once the gray starts to wear off, and you see the raw aluminum from the mold again, it's time to re-apply. You can apply sooner, however more doesn't make it better. You will notice the difference right away once you use it the first time. It's like putting eggs on teflon. The lead will just flow freely with this stuff. Not to say that this will solve all of your problems.


 Awesome! Thanks. I'll definitely have to give it a try.


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## gizitfish (Dec 7, 2011)

I always set the mold on top of the melting pot to let it warm, and soot the cavities with a candle. Has worked great for me over the years.

Clint


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