# Alum Creek crank size/colors



## neworiginal (Mar 27, 2018)

Hi All,

I'm finally done dragging my son all over the place for hockey and am gearing up to fish again. I live very close to alum creek and hoover. I plan on purchasing a used ranger 620vs and hitting the water for saugeye. My question is around crank size and color for saugeye. What are the best sizes and colors others have used for flicker shads, Husky Jerks (HJ12?), Rogues, Swim baits, etc. I grew up salmon fishing on lake Michigan and love to troll so I assume I will do the same with some jigging as needed. Any advice would be appreciated. I have been searching/reading the forums and have found excellent threads already.

Tightlines,
Brian aka neworiginal


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## neworiginal (Mar 27, 2018)

I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this question. I'm a newbie.


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## Earthworms (Dec 15, 2014)

Ummmm, what species?


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## neworiginal (Mar 27, 2018)

Earthworms said:


> Ummmm, what species?


I will be targeting saugeye. I also have a question regarding planer board size. I have a bunch of full size church walleye boards but think they will be too big. I used to pull 450ft of copper and 15 colors of leadcore on them. Assuming too much board for here.


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## kfi (Nov 11, 2013)

I have used shad raps in #5 and #7 sizes I believe. I like the jointed style better but have caught fish on both. Used several colors but always seem to have at least one clown color on. Bombers and bandits also work and I’ve heard of people pulling minnow style baits as well.

So many points on alum it is difficult to follow a specific contour but target a specific depth and run from point to point making sure to have at least one or two baits tapping bottom at the points. In Addition to eyes you’ll pickup crappies, smallmouth, cats, among others.

I have some boards but never really used at Alum due to boat traffic. At Hoover you could probably pull boards with the 9.9 hp limit. Neither lake going to be anything like trolling on the big lakes (a lot more turning and depth changes). 

There are several good trolling threads that will give you more info. Good luck.


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## float4fish (Feb 15, 2017)

Highly recommend reading the top two stickies in this forum. A ton of valuable information and years of knowledge donated their to get you started.


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## neworiginal (Mar 27, 2018)

thx for the replies and info. I will post my progress.


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## 93stratosfishnski (Aug 25, 2011)

When it gets hot bottom bounce during the day or jig points and flats at night for eyes


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## Brahmabull71 (Jul 30, 2014)

neworiginal said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm finally done dragging my son all over the place for hockey and am gearing up to fish again. I live very close to alum creek and hoover. I plan on purchasing a used ranger 620vs and hitting the water for saugeye. My question is around crank size and color for saugeye. What are the best sizes and colors others have used for flicker shads, Husky Jerks (HJ12?), Rogues, Swim baits, etc. I grew up salmon fishing on lake Michigan and love to troll so I assume I will do the same with some jigging as needed. Any advice would be appreciated. I have been searching/reading the forums and have found excellent threads already.
> 
> ...


Brian,

Since it seems you are primarily asking as it relates to trolling from a boat, I would answer this way. Saugeye are different than walleye, but there are two types that take on the characteristics of the dominant traits of their parents. The “walleye” strain hold deeper, suspend and feed up. Often they relate to deeper flats (16-30+ feet), the beach areas or near deep rip rap. Also jigging right on the bottom in deep water works. I rarely target these fish...maybe I’m missing out, but I like fishing easier fish. The “Sauger” strain like turbid current filled water that is often times stained or off color. These fish (which are the ones I primarily target on the two lakes you mentioned) will literally be in inches of water. I don’t run boards on these lakes to spread baits from the boat (like Erie), but rather do it to target depth changes and contours. Trolling humps that come up to a couple feet and down to say 12’ is what I typically do. Troll rocks and road beds or any holes that have ungulating bottom transitions. I often run boards (I use the newer style OR38 Offshore crappie boards with the top piece or my regular OR12 walleye boards if choppy...your Church’s boards will work fine) but only 4 and two flat lines...total of 6 lines. If only 2 guys on the boat, run all 4 flat lines. A lot of days flat lines out produce boards. Also many times fish only hit trolling in one direction, mostly when they’re letting water out, they set up into the current (north facing on said lakes). Saugeye are ambush predators and they set up on the top of humps or the down current side waiting for bait to come over a point/hump. They are typically near or right on the bottom, so it is key that your baits are bouncing off the bottom.

Crank Bait favorites: Berkley Flicker Shad #5-7 (35-75’ back), Flicker Minnows #7 (in the prop wash...literally 10-20’ back), Reef Runner 200’s, 400’s and Skinny Sticks. Typically mid May - September from 1.7 - 3.5 SOG depending on water temperature. Note: Tune your Reef Runners as they will usually blow out after 1.8 - 1.9 SOG. Blue and Silver/Chrome with orange belly or throat is a consistent producer. Like any fishing, vary and let them tell you what they want.

Harness style favorites: Slow Death rigs, harnesses with #3 - #4 Colorado blades off Slick Stick bottom bouncers (3/4 - 2oz), June Bug Spinners, Erie Dearies (3/8 - 1/2oz). June - September at .7 - 1.7 SOG. May/June in the backs of coves in 2-3’ of water can be exceptional!

*Gear*: Rods/Reels: I use a longer 8’ telescopic salmon style rod (Cabelas Tourney Trail not made anymore) paired with Daiwa LC17 reels that are ALWAYS calibrated...yes you will break off...recalibrate! A trick is to put a small Spro barrel swivel (#8 or #10) at 100’ and tie on the rest of your line. That way you can peel off only to that point and you will quickly and easily be calibrated again. I use 10# Maxima. Key to good rods are a super soft tip and midsection. Also I use the Precision Trolling App to figure out leads/depths.

Hoover has been tough the last couple years, so don’t be too disappointed if you struggle. Note: Hoover is a 9.9hp/under 10mph lake. Alum has been exceptional the last few years, but be prepared to be aggravated on the weekends. I usually go before daylight on the weekends and off by 11am. Weekdays after 5pm to just after dark. This is an unrestricted horsepower lake, so you will see the triple blown 502’s running 85+ mph.

Apologies for the lengthy reply. I’m sure I’ve missed some things, but this will get you started.

Good luck and tight lines!
Brahmabull


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## kfi (Nov 11, 2013)

Yea, what Brahma said... lots of guys who have things dialed in pretty well on here. Be willing to experiment and you’ll figure out what works on that particular day.


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## sixtyminutes (Jan 3, 2009)

Neworiginal, I hope this is helpful. I live a few miles from Hoover and alternate between Alum and Hoover for a lot of my fishing. Shad style cranks all work fine. Shad Raps, Flicker Shads, Hot N Tots, 200 Rips Shads, Rapala Trolls To Shad are all fantastic on some days.
There are a lot of different ways to catch Saugeyes and the successful presentations depend upon the location of the Saugeyes. They are never all doing the same thing at the same time in these lakes. Bass fisherman catch Saugeyes on wood. Someone is catching them on shallow flats pulling spinner rigs and others will be catching them in 25 feet of water on jigs. All on the same day. Long lining cranks is one of my favorite ways to fish but some days it may not be the best way to catch them. Bottom bouncers can be really important when fishing reservoirs and following contours. Shallow running crank baits can be pulled behind bouncers. Slow Death rigs and bouncers are about as good as it gets in summer. Good luck neighbor! I hope to see you on the water!


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## Saugeyefisher (Jul 19, 2010)

Brahmabull71 said:


> Brian,
> 
> Since it seems you are primarily asking as it relates to trolling from a boat, I would answer this way. Saugeye are different than walleye, but there are two types that take on the characteristics of the dominant traits of their parents. The “walleye” strain hold deeper, suspend and feed up. Often they relate to deeper flats (16-30+ feet), the beach areas or near deep rip rap. Also jigging right on the bottom in deep water works. I rarely target these fish...maybe I’m missing out, but I like fishing easier fish. The “Sauger” strain like turbid current filled water that is often times stained or off color. These fish (which are the ones I primarily target on the two lakes you mentioned) will literally be in inches of water. I don’t run boards on these lakes to spread baits from the boat (like Erie), but rather do it to target depth changes and contours. Trolling humps that come up to a couple feet and down to say 12’ is what I typically do. Troll rocks and road beds or any holes that have ungulating bottom transitions. I often run boards (I use the newer style OR38 Offshore crappie boards with the top piece or my regular OR12 walleye boards if choppy...your Church’s boards will work fine) but only 4 and two flat lines...total of 6 lines. If only 2 guys on the boat, run all 4 flat lines. A lot of days flat lines out produce boards. Also many times fish only hit trolling in one direction, mostly when they’re letting water out, they set up into the current (north facing on said lakes). Saugeye are ambush predators and they set up on the top of humps or the down current side waiting for bait to come over a point/hump. They are typically near or right on the bottom, so it is key that your baits are bouncing off the bottom.
> 
> ...


Do what this guy says! He flat out catches the fish!


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## neworiginal (Mar 27, 2018)

Thanks again everyone for the outstanding replies and knowledge share. Tightlines to all.


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## ristorap (Mar 6, 2013)

You can not go wrong with any of the shad rap family of baits - shad raps, r s shad raps, glass shad raps, jointed shad raps, minnow raps, scatter raps, tail dancers. Other cranks like - bandit 100, 200,300, Bomber - flat A, Storm - hot'n'tot , thunder crank, smash shad.


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## Rs12474 (Jan 11, 2018)

kfi said:


> I have used shad raps in #5 and #7 sizes I believe. I like the jointed style better but have caught fish on both. Used several colors but always seem to have at least one clown color on. Bombers and bandits also work and I’ve heard of people pulling minnow style baits as well.
> 
> So many points on alum it is difficult to follow a specific contour but target a specific depth and run from point to point making sure to have at least one or two baits tapping bottom at the points. In Addition to eyes you’ll pickup crappies, smallmouth, cats, among others.
> 
> ...


Any chance you could name or post links to some of the trolling forum boards. I am new to trolling and am having issues trying to figure out how to get my baits to the correct depth....(how much line on what type of lure, line, etc.) I am confident the answers are out there but I haven't been able to find them yet. Thanks very much.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## float4fish (Feb 15, 2017)

Precision trolling app has everything you are looking for.


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## Rs12474 (Jan 11, 2018)

float4fish said:


> Precision trolling app has everything you are looking for.


I downloaded it but it only has one lure listed, a Berkley.....only one. I tried updating the data but still only one.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Brahmabull71 (Jul 30, 2014)

Everything you need to know about baits and depth is found here...

Download the Precision Trolling app and select desired lure. Each lure will cost you $1.99. If that’s too steep, flip the package over and they have dive charts in them for free.


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## Rs12474 (Jan 11, 2018)

Brahmabull71 said:


> Everything you need to know about baits and depth is found here...
> 
> Download the Precision Trolling app and select desired lure. Each lure will cost you $1.99. If that’s too steep, flip the package over and they have dive charts in them for free.
> 
> ...


Ok..... thank you. I see the buy option now. I appreciate it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Brahmabull71 (Jul 30, 2014)

Rs12474 said:


> I downloaded it but it only has one lure listed, a Berkley.....only one. I tried updating the data but still only one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Delete and reinstall. Mark Romanack put lots of time in developing this app. Take advantage!


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## float4fish (Feb 15, 2017)

What Brahmabull said. I bought the $60 app I think. Mine has just about every major company in it. When in doubt let out just enough to consistently or constantly hit the bottom.


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## kfi (Nov 11, 2013)

Rs12474 said:


> Any chance you could name or post links to some of the trolling forum boards. I am new to trolling and am having issues trying to figure out how to get my baits to the correct depth....(how much line on what type of lure, line, etc.) I am confident the answers are out there but I haven't been able to find them yet. Thanks very much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


This thread has a ton of good info from knowledgeable fisherman without having to go to any other threads. If you want to checkout other thread I was referring to it is here: http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/index.php?threads/Trolling-questions???.273096/


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## Rs12474 (Jan 11, 2018)

float4fish said:


> What Brahmabull said. I bought the $60 app I think. Mine has just about every major company in it. When in doubt let out just enough to consistently or constantly hit the bottom.


Will I be able to feel it hitting bottom thru the rod while trolling? And doesn't it get snagged on stuff if it's hitting bottom? How would I keep it from getting hung up?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Brahmabull71 (Jul 30, 2014)

Yes you should feel/see it hit bottom. Rod tips will bounce. Yes you will get snagged. Have 4 of each baseline colors...whites, darks, brights and chromes. Invest in a good lure retriever as they come in handy.

You can start researching these lakes now by looking at Navionics maps with depth contours and figuring out where to hit first once the weather cooperates to your comfort level. There is no better teacher than seat time. Get out there and try things!


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