# Clear coat help



## buckeyebandit74 (Feb 24, 2013)

Was wondering if anyone has used a clear coat on their crankbaits other than epoxy. Was thinking about a clear coat for cars buts not sure. Epoxy either doesn't allow enough working time, or doesn't always set up. Had to toss quite a few lures after clearing due to the fact the final finish was tacky and wouldn't harden.


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## muzzy123 (Dec 1, 2015)

Try Dick Nites S-81 clear coat. I use it on all of mine and it is holding up great.


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## ezbite (May 25, 2006)

polyurethane in a spray can works. if your epoxy is tacky, the 50/50 mixture isn't right. go buy a cheap digital postal scale, some small plastic shot glasses and go by weight, not volume. I like to nuke them for 3-4-5 seconds before mixing, makes the epoxy and hardener thinner and it mixes better and don't toss your screw up if still tacky, use rubbing alcohol to remove the tacky epoxy and just repaint the bait.


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## buckeyebandit74 (Feb 24, 2013)

Thanks for all the info. Never even thought to warm up the epoxy. By the way, does epoxy have a shelf life? I've had my envirotex for about three years now and noticed one of the liquids were turning a brownish color. I've got a scale and try to keep the mix as close to 50/50 as I can. Just wondered if maybe the epoxy is going bad. As far as tossing my baits go. I usually carve my own so it's not that big of a loss. Lol. Just get so discouraged after spending all that time painting then for epoxy to not set I get a little perturbed. Lol


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## huntindoggie22 (Mar 28, 2008)

I put a few drops of paint thinner or acetone in the epoxy when mixing. Makes it a lot easier to work with and gives you a few more minutes of use time. Also runs along the bait a little better when drying to get a smoother finish.


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## Uncle Paul (Jul 10, 2004)

huntindoggie22 said:


> I put a few drops of paint thinner or acetone in the epoxy when mixing. Makes it a lot easier to work with and gives you a few more minutes of use time. Also runs along the bait a little better when drying to get a smoother finish.


I thin mine with a few drops of alcohol the one that’s sold next to paint thinners and if the epoxy is setting up on the last lure just hit it with a hair dryer turns the epoxy back to a liquid in seconds


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## Jim Paden (Feb 28, 2014)




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## Jim Paden (Feb 28, 2014)

Mixing epoxy that is normally 50/50 by volume is very different than mixing 50/50 by weight. When mixing by weight you will need to know the weight of each component. That information can be found on the label of most quality epoxy products. If not check the web site. Last option, carefully measure out the same volume of each component into identical containers and weigh on a good scale to develop your own ratio. If the epoxy is not grossly past the advertised shelf life this should fix the sticky surface problem. Any of the previously coated sticky lures can be fixed with a correctly mixed new top coat. (usually)


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## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

Tacky epoxy can usually be narrowed down to improper ratios, improper mixing, or both. 
The only 2 types that I use on my baits are Devcon 2 ton and Envirotex Lite. Devcon for installing lips, eyes, and eye screws, and E-Tex for the top coats. Avoid using the 5 minute quickset epoxies regardless of brand. They will yellow and crack over time which will allow water to penetrate the surface. Devcon 2 ton comes in a double plunger type dispenser and can be tricky to get perfectly even amounts. Air bubbles being the biggest culprit. Storing it tip down can help. Also, start dispensing it on scrap paper until you have equal amounts coming out before making a batch. 
Regarding E-Tex, it's easy to get perfect batches every time. As Jim Paden said, equal weights of hardener and resin may be different amounts in volume. Try using medical syringes. Drug stores all have them and they are inexpensive. I mark one R and the other H, and reuse them after a good rinse with alcohol. They are inexpensive and almost impossible to screw up. 
Before you start, warm the 2 parts separately before mixing. You can soak the containers in warm water, or use a heat gun or hair dryer. I use the microwave, but it only takes a few seconds for small amounts because epoxy gets hot really fast. You just want it warm enough to thin the surface tension a bit to let air bubbles rise and pop. As with any 2 part epoxy, proper mixing is crucial. I then pour the mixture out on a flat disposable surface or container such as a plastic lid or paper plate. This allows more bubbles to pop. You can also blow on the epoxy for any additional bubbles, as the carbon dioxide in your breath will pop them.


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## DL07 (Jul 21, 2011)

I started out using Devcon Epoxy and still do from time to time. Recently I started using KBS Diamond clear. Its really easy to use also, just dip and Hang. No wasted epoxy and no bad mixes that dont fully harden.


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## HamiltonKdog (Oct 15, 2014)

Epoxy not curing is a ratio and or mixing problem. I started mixing using a power stirrer on a drill motor and havent had a problem since. I mix 2-3 minutes, let it set under a heat lamp 10 minutes then mix again. Heating etex really improves flowability as well as forces air bubbles out. usually first 30 minutes on my turners I leave a heat lamp on just to help flow and eliminate bubbles.


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## buckeyebandit74 (Feb 24, 2013)

Just ordered some KBS Diamond Clear. Can't wait to try it on some of my new baits. Hopefully I will have no problems. Thanks to all who has chimed in with their experiences and ideas.


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## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

The thought of dipping a clear coat sounds great, but how does it not dry thicker at the bottom or drip end than the rest of the bait? It seems like it would run and dry thicker, plugging up the rear hook hanger. Is it a process of reversing the bait during curing time? And if so, how does it not run all over the diving lips on a crankbait if they have one installed?


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## DL07 (Jul 21, 2011)

I can't explain how it works. The only thing i do is dip and hang, next day dip and hang again. It seems as some gius only due 1 coat and some do 2. Ive always just done 2 coats to be sure. Ive never noticed any difference in thickness or puddling from the top to the bottom of the lures that may be caused from hanging. Once they are hung to dry they are left alone until dry. I always hang with tail down and add a wire to the bottom hook hanger so the excess materials can run down and drip away from the lure.
There are a few videos on youtube that show and explaine it, Incase my description isn't clear


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## THE WHITE WORM (Jan 15, 2007)

I know this isn’t an answer to the original question but just offering some of my experiences. 
From lots of help from guys in here and a few lure builders, I’ve started out with Etex. I warm up in warm water. I use the clear plastic condiment cups from Walmart about $3 for 100 cups. They work perfect for a batch of about 10 Muskie lures. Pour hardener in one and resin In one to get equal VOLUME. Mix each for 1 minute. Mix resin into hardner and mix another min. Let sit for 5 and after hit the bubbles with a blow torch. And when your lures are on the drying wheel hit with blow torch(as low as possible-red flame) over each lure carefully. Make sure the temp is above 70 and they will dry hard and clear! Since I’ve done this way I’ve cleared maybe 1000 lures and haven’t had any issues with not drying correctly. I’ve been told you can add a few drops of denatured alcohol to extend the workability. 
My turner only takes 10’lures so never had to worry about that.


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## THE WHITE WORM (Jan 15, 2007)

Additional note— depending on what clear you use will vary the action of the lure. An epoxy will give you a much thicker coat. I’ve tried to refurbish some Wiley’s. I know dale dips his in an automotive clear(multiple coats) after I’ve refinished and cleared with epoxy I’ve yet to catch a fish on them. I’ve talked to him at length and came up with the noise the jointed bait makes. And to me it has a little slower action with the epoxy vs. the auto clear. 
I’ve just started experimenting with this on the walleye lures I paint and catch rate. 2-4 coats of etex is what I usually use adds a lot of mass to a lure vs 2-4 coats of auto clear. Check the same lure with a caliper and makes a difference.

Check out the fat az podcast they had an episode where they talked about this.


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## THE WHITE WORM (Jan 15, 2007)

I’ve also noticed a difference when repainting tuff shads and adding epoxy vs a thinner clear coat and decrease in catch rate.


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## All Eyes (Jul 28, 2004)

DL07 said:


> I can't explain how it works. The only thing i do is dip and hang, next day dip and hang again. It seems as some gius only due 1 coat and some do 2. Ive always just done 2 coats to be sure. Ive never noticed any difference in thickness or puddling from the top to the bottom of the lures that may be caused from hanging. Once they are hung to dry they are left alone until dry. I always hang with tail down and add a wire to the bottom hook hanger so the excess materials can run down and drip away from the lure.
> There are a few videos on youtube that show and explaine it, Incase my description isn't clear


Thanks for the info. It's on my to-try list. If the results are the same as E-Tex, it would be much easier to use.


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## meats52 (Jul 23, 2014)

I get my clear coat from Jann's Netcraft. It's ready to use straight from the bottle so there's no 2 part mixing. I use it to dip my jigs and it really holds up good. Jann's also sells the thinner for it if you want to thin it to use in a airbrush.


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## whitaker201 (Apr 4, 2014)

DL07 said:


> I can't explain how it works. The only thing i do is dip and hang, next day dip and hang again. It seems as some gius only due 1 coat and some do 2. Ive always just done 2 coats to be sure. Ive never noticed any difference in thickness or puddling from the top to the bottom of the lures that may be caused from hanging. Once they are hung to dry they are left alone until dry. I always hang with tail down and add a wire to the bottom hook hanger so the excess materials can run down and drip away from the lure.
> There are a few videos on youtube that show and explaine it, Incase my description isn't clear


I do the same. Dip, hang, and insert a wire into the hook hanger. I do get some build-up on the hook hanger but I can cut that off with a razor knife.


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## JamesF (May 20, 2016)

DL07 said:


> I can't explain how it works. The only thing i do is dip and hang, next day dip and hang again. It seems as some gius only due 1 coat and some do 2. Ive always just done 2 coats to be sure. Ive never noticed any difference in thickness or puddling from the top to the bottom of the lures that may be caused from hanging. Once they are hung to dry they are left alone until dry. I always hang with tail down and add a wire to the bottom hook hanger so the excess materials can run down and drip away from the lure.
> There are a few videos on youtube that show and explaine it, Incase my description isn't clear


Room temperature will make a difference when hanging, the thin portion at the top will always dry faster. Read the inst,specs.


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