# Cutting, shaping, and carving a bait body...



## vc1111

I've posted a little on this subject and I think its an important one to explore.

In the next week or so, I'll post some pictures and explain how I do it...but there's more than one way to skin that cat.

How do you guys do it?

Maybe we could compile a list of ideas, tips, and shortcuts.


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## etch

by no means a pro, or have ever claimed to know what i am doing lol. on flat sided baits, i draw my pattern then cut it out,then i drill the eye socket hole, with a small drill bit, straight threw the bait, this allows me to have centered eyes, (then later on after final sanding i use a forstner bit for the eye sockets to be recessed) then i drill my weight holes while the blank is still in its squared form , this allows you to keep the weight holes dead centered followed by the belt sander to round any high spots, then i use my knife to carve the sides (knock off the sharp edges) then i dremel it all smooth, and finish off with a little hand sanding, if its a round style bait, like my frogs, then i draw the front veiw, cut it out, then draw the top veiw, cut it out, then same as above , then i putty my weights in, let the putty sit for a day, sand, putty again, sit for a day, then i seal my baits with a couple of different methods you can choose from, laquer sanding sealer, stinks to high hell, 1 dip let dry for 1hr, sand , dip again, wait a day light sand and prime it, or you can use polycrylic, water based no smell, same as above, leaves a glass like finish, or you can use a water based primer sealer like 123 , dip and let dry, light sand if needed , then wait a day and paint, , with the sanding sealer or the polycrylic, u can use fusion spray paint for your primer or plain old whiite house paint, the key to keeping your bait water proof and long lasting is, the top coat, whether you use nu lustre(my fav) etex, or devcon, i like to put at least 2 coats, 3 on my bigger baits, hope this helps, Etch


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## vc1111

Etch, I've thought about drilling a hole through the bait where the eyes will be placed, and the using the forstner bit to drill the eye sockets, but I don't have a drill press (yet). I'm always afraid that I'll drill at a bit of an angle and wind up with the eyes in a different location on each side of the bait.

A buddy of mine keeps telling me to check out the local estate auctions for a drill press because he says the tools are usually sold for reasonable prices compared to the price new.

I have a method for rounding the edges off the bait using the sander, which I'll share later.

I'd like to hear more about what other guys are using to seal their baits too.

I'm using sanding sealer now, but its only OK, not as good as a true deep-penetrating sealer, which I used to use. I can't seem to find it in any of the local store for some reason.


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## fugarwi7

I am very interested in everyone's carving and shaping techniques, but I would ask one addditional bit of information be included...what kind of wood do you prefer for your style of baits and what are the pluses and minuses of each. I would think a softer wood like poplar or cedar would be ideal for shaping, but what inherent characteristics of each would be of concern, a benefit, etc...(assuming it is properly sealed). I know this can get into all kinds of details, ie, density, graininess, shaping qualities, strength, and on and on...Just looking for a few basic considerations so I can start expanding my range and "crank" out a few more. Thanks.


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## rjbass

Getting in to the types of wood could be a thread in itself, but for the most part I use cedar, either white or red. My favorite for Musky lures is Alaskan Yellow Cedar but it is real hard to find now and it is real expensive. It has some type of oil in it that will not let water penetrate. Lots of guys use hardwood for their musky baits which is great, but I mostly make trolling baits which I believe the cedar has better buoyancy and therefore better action IMO for those type of baits. Gliders are better made of harder wood like poplar or maple, but that is only my opinion from my experiences.

As far as shaping the baits, I use a lathe for all my Musky Rockets. I use calipers to make sure my baits are the same circumference in all areas. I cut the lip slot while the bait is still square with my band saw. I then use a belt sander to finish the head and then hand sand for finishing touches. For most other baits I trace the outline of the particular bait on the wood using premade templates. I cut these out with my band saw. I then do what Etch does and drill my eye holes and weight holes while the bait is still flat. Some baits I just use stick on 3-d eyes without drilling eye holes and stick them on before final clear coat so there is some protrusion effect. I do most of my rounding work on my belt sanders, 1" and 4". I do some finishing touches with the dremmel and hand sand with countour sanding blocks. (They work awesome by the way)

I then prep with Minwax sanding sealer which I have used for years. It seals great and dries fast. I light sand and then put on a thin coat of Devcon for a glass like surface to paint on, spin for an hour and hang to dry overnight. I then use Krylon white or gray primer over the Devcon before paint. Color of primer depends on what colors I am going to put on the bait. I paint the bait and then apply two or three coats of Devcon depending on what type of bait it is.

For bass baits and walleye baits I make my own screw eyes out of stainess steel wire (.031 or .041) I have proven they will hold just as good if not better than commercial screw eyes and they are thinner which makes the split rings fit better on smaller baits. For Musky lures I use .092 stainless steel screw eyes in different lengths that I get from Stamina. I use Devcon 5 minute epoxy for all screw eyes and line ties.

One thing I do and use it like a bible is I keep a notebook with a page (scaled shop paper) for each type of lure I make with a drawing to scale of top, side and bottom view with all the dimensions, weight placement, weight amount, line tie placement, hook placement, lip angle, type of lip, etc, etc. Everything that goes into making that particular bait. Then if something is not right with the bait I can make changes and have something to refer to. I could not do without this. I also have a "Recipe Book" that is all the bait colors that I paint and how to do it. After you do hundreds of baits, you will forget how to paint some of the colors if you don't do this. It help me tremendously.

Rod


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## hazmail

I have not used balsa for years, mainly because if I am fishing for Bream (not sure of the equivalent) they crush the lures, they eat oysters, so you can imagine how hard their mouths are. I used cedar for a while but find it too grainy for small lures and the grain tends to come through clear coat. I now use a local furniture wood (hardwood) called Kauri Pine (very ancient pine) which grows in Queensland (not plantation), I find this to be a good density (similar to Basswood), fine grained and sands to baby skin smooth and is tough on the teeth.
Recently I have posted a few on round sanding, flat sanding and through wire; I will not load them again because it would take hours. Sorry about the post size, but to be fair, I had to cover just about everything.
I have been favoring split lures lately, for the ease of adding weights and I think foiling is much easier doing it in halves. For rounding lures, weather they are split through wire or one piece I use this: http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=81209

Also good for finishing off a round lure is brass or Al tubing, cut in half, lengthwise with sand paper laid or glued in the concave curve (makes a concave rasp). Just find the tubing a bit bigger in diameter then the curve you want to sand, use coarse or fine paper, whatever is required.

For Sanding and fitting through wire (post is back to front sorry about that) I do this:

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=81419

I have been sealing with propionate, either thinned with lacquer thinners or acetone, I prefer lacquer thinners which takes longer to dry but I think it soaks in further and gives a better build. I sometimes use the poor mans Prop, yoghurt cups (recycle 3, I think), if I want a white undercoat (but its not real hard) or another one I have after many hours of research, found to be pretty good and cheap if you are blind - reading glass lenses- Yes these are also Propionate, hard and crystal clear. I have a ready supply of scratched glasses here and any friends who buy cheap, non prescription plastic lens reading glasses gladly supply me with old scratched ones, so I have a couple of hands full of lenses in reserve.
I used to use aluminum for lips but now have discovered how to bend Lexan (polycarbonate), very versatile and very strong:
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9885

Make a Jig or template for whatever you are doing; they make life so much easier and predictable. If a lure runs how you like it and you have Jigged it, the next one you make will run the same.
Jigs for everything:
http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2136&d=1185665677

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=82601


Finishing
I have used Dick Nite style clear and D2T, I like both, but for ease of use (and its nearly summer here) and I am not selling lures, D2T is the best filling / leveling finish, easy to use, fast drying and does not etch or strip paints. I have a new clear I am dying to try out which is shellac based (AND made in Australia, shock horror), which may be a problem with acrylics- Looks very promising though - anyway we will see what happens. \

This is just a few more angles on the art, hope you get something out of it. Pete


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## hazmail

Vince - I am noticing on a lot of topics, mine is the last say (including this one), seems like I am killing 'Topics' here, which certainly is not intended- maybe I am coming across as an opinionated D/H, if so I appologise for putting anyone off side. pete


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## fugarwi7

Pete, I'll post so mine is last in line...keep the info coming...this is all good stuff...I'll try to spur this again with another question...Template making!

I have begun making drawings of the lure bodies I want to make and when I finally get one dialed in and the lip angle/size just right, is there a method to make a template that is more permanent, rather than the paper method I am trying now? I envision myself making many of the same style so I can paint a variety of finishes, so I am looking for a repeating method without the cut and paste process. Any other ways you can suggest will help me and I am sure many other newbies.

rjbass...you mentioned making permanent templates and tracing the outline..what do you make the template out of? I was thinking about using some lexan and making construction notes on it with a Sharpie...any thoughts on this?

Thanks.


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## hazmail

fugarwi7- I just cut out the profile (paper) and stick it on a sheet of aluminum / Lexan / perspex and do a rough cut around th outline with snips or scissors, then use a disc sander to sand up to the lines. They last for years, you can also drill a small hole for the eye placment and then just mark the blank (through the hole) with a pencil for later drilling. As long as your timber is square you can reverse the template and mark the other side, so the eye marks should be perfect - Ah ! but nothing ever is. pete


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## rjbass

My permanent templates are similar, except I make them out of 1/8" plywood from the hobby store. I trace the outline rough cut it out with a scroll saw and finish edges on the belt sander. I drill the eye holes and cut the lip slot so when I lay it over the blank it is easy to mark. 

Rod


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## eyesman_01

So far I'm using the paper templates. I fill a page with a specific bait, make copies as I need them, then cut and paste. I too have thought about the aluminum/lexan aspect, and will probably go that route eventually. However, I'll have to make 2 of each size, as I'm using 2 different lip configurations for each size... one for shallow diver, and one for deep. It will still beat cutting and pasting.


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## fugarwi7

eyesman_01 said:


> However, I'll have to make 2 of each size, as I'm using 2 different lip configurations for each size... one for shallow diver, and one for deep. It will still beat cutting and pasting.


Thanks guys...I was hoping I was going the right direction with this...eyesman...sounds like we're working on a similar plan for those pesky eye's.


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## vc1111

Pete, don't worry about topics, just keep posting. You provide a ton of info and I've already picked up a few pointers from this thread.  

I have some templates cut from wood, but most I store on my computer so I can resize them, making them bigger or smaller, or just longer or wider.

I like the idea of a Lexan or thin plywood template with a traceable lip slot and eye notch. I vary my bait sizes frequently, but it would be nice to have my standards streamlined that way too.


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## eyesman_01

fugarwi7 said:


> eyesman...sounds like we're working on a similar plan for those pesky eye's.


You betcha! They're really the only species I fish for anymore, so my whole boat/tackle set-up is based with that in mind. I figure the more variety I have to throw at 'em, the greater the chance I have of catching my limit.

To get back to the original subject of this post...

I start with the template, cut out the shape and lip slot, drill holes for the hooks and line tie while it is still flat to get a centerline. I also drill a hole all the way through to align the eyes at this time. Vince, you said you need a drill press. I know you can get a small cheap 5-speed at Menards for around $60. That's what I have, burnt the motor up and adapted a blower motor to fit til I can buy another. You guys would laugh at the tools I've adapted to make these baits. I adapted an old jigsaw to "tabletop" style to get a good square lip slot. Adapted an old burnt up hand belt sander to a blower motor for a tabletop model. I'll have to post pics some time. 

Shaping, I start bevelling the nose and tail on the belt sander to narrow them down, then start on the corners, usually starting with the tail end of the bait, keeping each side as even as possible, til it is down enough to round to the shape I want, then I work the head the same way. Middle body is last, to get the flow from one end to the other. Then I install the screw eyes, and prime or foil, depending on the finish. Kinda got myself into a routine so each is shaped as close as possible to the next. Takes some time, but relaxing.


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## vc1111

> I know you can get a small cheap 5-speed at Menards for around $60


That sounds like a good price point for all the more use I'll give it. I only have a few drilling applications. I need to drill the eyes pilot holes and I'd like to try drilling out the bodies of my ********** so that I can fill them with metal sleeves and bb's for a pronounced rattle effect.

Do they have a mail order catalog?

(I love threads like this because one thing leads to another and all kinds of good tips get posted )


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## rjbass

Here you go Vince...

http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,128.html

Rod


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## hazmail

*BEWARE* Vince- I have a 6' all singing all dancing, pedastal cheapo, the motor burned out and I had to strap on a washing machine motor, then one of the belts broke and I could not find a replacment so had to make a leather one- some times it's just not worth buying cheap tools. Pete


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## prohawk

Its a lot of work but fun when you catch-em on your own lures!

We made the Tomahawk weight foreward spinners,the Walleye Whacker single hook harness's,the Tomahawk Jigs,and array of panfish jigs.


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## eyesman_01

Vince, Menards is one of our local Home Improvement stores, like Lowes or Home Depot. Big chain around here, but I don't know how far out they spread, and I don't believe they have a mail order catalog. The drill press is just like the one rjbass posted except red and white. Just their generic version. Not good for heavy work but would probably do for no more than you need it for. Like Pete said, they are cheap though.


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## TIGGER

Pete you are full of info............. I have learned so much from your posts. Believe me I am very very new to this whole thing. Vince got into this about a year ago. I'll get him back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

I have been taking scrap pcs of countertop laminate to use as my templates. I will mark the lip angles and weighting postions on them.

I have been using a band saw and table top combination sander to shape the lures. The walleye sized baits are all power sanded. I will finish them off with an electric palm sander.
Musky baits I will use a hand router to round the edges. 

You can use a band saw for more than a flat side cut. You can stand the bait up in a running postion and cut a taper from head to tail also. BE CAREFULL! go slow and steady. It helps having to sand as much.


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## vc1111

I'd like to sneak a peak at your shop again, Tigger. It would be interesting to see the changes and differences in technique that you've harnessed in the last year.

Those walleye baits you cranked out were 100% knockout! I've looked at the pictures of the walleyes you guys caught over and over again. I need a drool bucket when I look at them. Walleye is my favorite fish to eat.


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## hazmail

Tigger, just looking at some of your baits you have come along way in a year (very prolific) you have a good teacher in Vince. I don't have a band saw, but it's on the list and as you say great for 'roughing down'. Keep them coming. pete


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## goolies

I was making some bass poppers and I just wanted to share a couple of shaping techniques. Someone might already have done this but just in case.

I don't have a lathe so I have to shape the body on the belt sander. It is difficult to rotate the blank by hand and get the smooth shape I'm looking for so I cut the head off of a screw and chucked it in the cordless drill. I screwed into the center of the blank and used the drill to rotate the blank on the belt sander. I made the blank longer than needed so I could cut off the screw hole portion.

To form the face of the popper I used half round wood rasps. I made an initial centered groove across the face with a saw to guide the rasp. I started with the smallest rasp and worked my way to the largest. I put strips of sandpaper under the rasps. They hold sand paper very well.

I seen a post by Vince where he inserted glass rattles in the face of a musky popper and I wanted to do something similar on these poppers. Instead of pre-made glass rattles I used plastic round beads and BB's. I drilled holes in the face, press fit a glass bead into the bottom of the hole, drop in a BB, and press fit in another bead to plug the hole. It's loud with four of them.

Hopefully this helps someone.

Andy


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## vc1111

goolies, if I'd known about that trick, I might have not bothered to buy a lathe! Great idea. 

I'd like to try your rattle technique too.

Good stuff.


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## rjbass

That is an awesome technique! Nice job on the rattles also.

Rod


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## eyesman_01

Hey goolies, great innovation! The things we do to accomplish our art.

Guess this is as good a time as any to show some of mine also...

I made this using an old jig saw to cut out the bodies and lip slots before I got the scroll saw. I still use it to cut lip slots. Installed a dimmer switch to vary the speed when I was using it to cut the lexan.

















Here I had a handheld Black and Decker belt sander that burnt up a bearing. I tore it apart, used the belt assembly, made an adapter to fit it to a motor, and this is what I use to shape my baits (hopefully only til this weekend when I plan on buying a real belt sander). 









And here's the drill press that burnt up a motor. So I adapted an old furnace blower motor and belt to get me by.









And you've already seen my drying wheels. 









This setup is quite noisy. The more I work with it I think I may end up buying one of the rotisserie motors anyway.

But just like everything else, it does the job for now and I didn't have to spend a fortune to get started. Just needed a little imagination. However, as time goes on, I do plan on buying the proper equipment. First on my list is a belt sander. This one rotates quite slowly and seems to take forever to shape a bait.

Good work goolies. Glass beads with those BB's will give you an even louder rattle. I found that out on my Carolina Rigs. Keep it up. I love seeing what everyone comes up with in here.


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## goolies

Eyesman - I have a hands-on engineering background so I really like seeing what you've done. Very impressive!


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## eyesman_01

I'm a tool and die maker, so I have some knowledge and access to the equipment to make the little things needed to adapt (when work allows). Was laid off most of the past year so I had to use my imagination. Just got back to work a little more than a month ago, so hopefully will be able to afford the proper tools in the near future.


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## hazmail

Sometimes it's like making your own lures, your home made tools turn out to be better than factory ones, no matter how much you pay. Like all you other backyard engineers (engine ere, engine there), I love to see what we can make out of what most people see as junk- just have to use your imagination, and the biggest cost, TIME. pete


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## chappy

Goolies if you ever want to use a lathe I have one your welcome to come over and use it . had it about 2 yrs only used it twice. I'm in Perry too.


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## TIGGER

Neat guys. Man if I miss a day..........I miss alot! LOL Graet ideas with the tools and rigging. I love this kinda stuff. Its helping me think outside the box.


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## goolies

Thanks for the offer chappy. Most of my lures will be for walleye and will not be cylindrical in nature.


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## eyesman_01

Hey Tigger, missed having you around. 

Congrats on your derby win. Was it on one of your baits?


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## TIGGER

Hey eyes, I am starting to catch up finally. Between OT at work and that derby. I have been smoked. I had to take the pollygraph test tonight for the contest.
I just got a lathe tonight so it will help me get back into the basement. I didn't catch the big one on one of my baits. It was a rapala brand. I did get 3 fish over ten pounds on the homemades. One was over 11 pounds. I am tickled pink about it. I have some ideas on things to try over the winter for the upcoming spring bite.

Man it is so good to see everyone doing the baits. It will be even better seeing all the pics of the fish caught on them.


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