# Takedown Bow



## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Hey guys, can you help a novice out? If you had a takedown recurve bow for survival situations, which arrows would you prefer? Lets say a 45# bow. Carbon or aluminum arrows? Which would be more durable for repeated use if you could find them? Which would you want in your quiver? 20 arrows max.

I know carbon's are lighter for carrying purposes. I'm after durability.


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## RJohnson442 (May 14, 2013)

Carbon Arrows for sure, knick a tree limb or any hard impact with an aluminum arrow once and see how straight it will shoot again.


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## Lowerider1029 (Jul 8, 2014)

I agree, carbon is lighter, faster and more durable.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

I bowhunt w/a Martin Saber takedown and I'm shooting Carbon Express Heritage arrows.They are wood grained looking carbon arrows specifically weighted/and spined for traditional shooting.They fly GREAT w/feathers(synthetic).That's what I'd get (again).


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Another thing about carbon arrows is, if they're intact then they are straight. You can't say that about aluminum.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Very interesting. So if I accidently shoot a tree or hit a root, the aluminum could be bent beyond shooting straight and if the carbon doesn't shatter, it will shoot straight again?


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## supercanoe (Jun 12, 2006)

You can shoot a carbon arrow until it cracks or splits. I can usually kill several deer with the same arrow.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Lazy 8 said:


> ...if the carbon doesn't shatter, it will shoot straight again?


Long story short, yes! Back in the day, if you hit a tree, root, rock or whatever with a carbon fiber arrow the advice was to gently flex the arrow with your hands holding it close to your ear. If you heard creaking, crackling sounds coming from it, then you should discard it since it could shatter on release, doing damage to your bow or, more seriously, your bow hand!

Well, I haven't heard of a carbon fiber arrow shattering on release in several blue moons! With the newer construction methods and layer biasing the better arrows use these days, I doubt the advice above is even necessary anymore. But, it couldn't hurt.

With carbon fiber arrows, if they ain't broke, they're straight!

EDIT: However, they DO cost!


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## RJohnson442 (May 14, 2013)

Lazy 8 said:


> Very interesting. So if I accidently shoot a tree or hit a root, the aluminum could be bent beyond shooting straight and if the carbon doesn't shatter, it will shoot straight again?


It's guaranteed the aluminum will bend, hit a leaf too hard and it's no longer straight lol. If you hit a tree or the ground dead on with one it would look like a U. My 175lb crossbow came with 4 or 5 and they only lasted a few shots each into a foam target at 30 yrds before I could shoot around a tree with them.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Thanks everybody. I ended up getting the Victory Archery Decimator Arrows with the 500 spine. The dude at Field and Stream said the stronger spine will help with shooting from a recurve. Take some of the flex out?


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Well, if I'm going to err on one side or the other, I'd err on the side of the arrow being a little too stiff rather than being too flexible. Especially if you have a fixed blade broadhead on the front of it. There are computer programs like "On Target 2" offered by arrow manufacturers to help you determine the proper spine for your arrows. However, I can't figure the things out either, so I'm at the mercy of the bow shop. At least I try to trade at shops that seem to know what they're doing!


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Yea, the dude there showed me a chart based on my pull, poundage, and the length of my arrows. I'm about 6'2 and my height is in my upper body. Basically, he said, you don't need to cut any off the arrows. Based on that, he said to go with the 500's. I think he said if I was to cut one inch off of them, I should go with the 450's.

This dude shoots competitively with a 70 lb recurve! I looked at his arms and he said, I know what you're thinking... it's all in your back. He showed me some dumbbell exercises for strengthening my back muscles.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Lazy 8, sounds like that guy knows his stuff. You draw the bow by squeezing your shoulder blades together. If you're right handed and are drawing the bow with your right bicep, you're doing it wrong!

And the thing about recurves is, they measure the draw weight at a 28" draw. If you can draw the bow further than that, the weight goes up, and so does your speed. Thus, if your a rangy guy, the need for extra spine in your arrows.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

So...a 45# bow, drawn to 30" would actually be?


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

Well, the draw weight doesn't skyrocket, it might go up to 47#-48# at best. But that's still plenty to kill deer with a well placed shot. Native Americans did so with far less! The thing is to put that shot EXACTLY where you want it every time!


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Copy that. Thank you.


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## Lowerider1029 (Jul 8, 2014)

I have been told that the draw weight goes up about 2 pounds per inch. Don't know if that is accurate, but i would think it is pretty close.


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## PapawSmith (Feb 13, 2007)

Lazy 8 said:


> So...a 45# bow, drawn to 30" would actually be?


The draw weight of the bow affects the increase of weight beyond the 28" common design indicator. A 45# bow drawn to 30" would be between 49# & 50#. You figure that a 28" draw has 20" of actual string travel. You divide the bow weight at 28", 45# in your case, by the 20" of actual travel and you get 2.25# per inch for a net add of 4.5# at 30" draw. I shoot a 60# re-curve bow and with an actual 31" draw and it ends up at 69#.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Well that's cool. I'm 60 years old and losing some strength. I really wanted to get a 50 pounder but it was a tad too much. Now it sounds like I'm coming close to shooting one. I just need to strengthen my back.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Well that's cool. I'm 60 years old and losing some strength. I really wanted to get a 50 pounder but it was a tad too much. Now it sounds like I'm coming close to shooting one. I just need to strengthen my back.


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## buckeyebowman (Feb 24, 2012)

The more you shoot, the stronger and better you get!


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Thanks Buckeyebowman and everybody for all your help. You all are truly a wealth of knowledge.


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## one3 (Dec 1, 2015)

Lazy 8 said:


> Hey guys, can you help a novice out? If you had a takedown recurve bow for survival situations, which arrows would you prefer? Lets say a 45# bow. Carbon or aluminum arrows? Which would be more durable for repeated use if you could find them? Which would you want in your quiver? 20 arrows max.
> 
> I know carbon's are lighter for carrying purposes. I'm after durability.


carbon, they are more durable and do not bend.


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## one3 (Dec 1, 2015)

Lazy 8 said:


> So...a 45# bow, drawn to 30" would actually be?


If i remember right after 28 in. it is 2 lbs per in.


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## Lazy 8 (May 21, 2010)

Thank you one3 and thank you everybody. Every bit of info gets me that much further down the road. At 60 years of age, I'd rather reach out to you all that know than learn the hard way.


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