# Got a Leak



## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

During a 4-6 hour trip she takes on 5-6 gal of water. I cannot find the leak, a hole a tear, nothing looks damaged underneath.

I have a bilge pump, but I'd rather find the leak. HELP??

I need ideas of how to find the culprit/hole what ever. 

Thanks in advance OGF.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

TC, that's a good size leak taking on 4-5 gal of water in a 4-6 HR trip.

You can turn your bilge off and with boat on trailer, hull dry, plug in, take your garden hose and put some water in your boat and crawl underneath checking for leaking rivets/seams. Or put your boat in the water and leave it there long enough to let water enter the boat then pull boat out, get underneath and inspect hull for leaks. If you put boat in water most likely you'll have towel dry bottom to see where leak is coming from. That's why it's usually easier to take garden hose and put some water in the boat when the hull is dry.

With the info given, Most likely you have some leaking rivets that will have to be tightened up or replaced. If you find leaking rivets, its good to have a Sharpie or some kind of marker with you to mark the leaking rivets rather than trying to remember them.

If you find you have no rivets or seams leaking, no leaks in hull or transom, your plug isn't leaking, check either your livewell and livewell pump hoses to insure they aren't leaking when the livewell is on.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

I've got a couple of leaky rivets. Rather than drain my boat at the end of the day I just tow it home and park it in the garage. I use the jack to try to get it pretty level. Next morning I can go out and see exactly which rivets are leaking. What you can't see is any rivets still hidden under your bunk boards.
Also check the through hull fittings for the livewell pump and any drains. I had a friend who had a crack in one of his that leaked like crazy.
Good luck


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

+1 on the through hull fittings. My last boat would take on water, sometimes. After searching for a couple years I finally discovered a cracked overflow on one of the livewells.
And, as stated above, if you really want to find it. Fill'er up.


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## Lewis (Apr 5, 2004)

Plug the thru hull livewell holes before your next trip and see if the boat stays dry. Sounds like a lot of water for a rivet.


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## Gottagofishn (Nov 18, 2009)

BTW.... Mighty fine lookin boat you have there.


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## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

Lots of great ideas and thanks everyone for your suggestions!!!

I can have the boat tilted towards the bow and or towards the stern and nothing leaks out.
THAT'S what bugs me. I am definitely going to try the livewell intake and drain. It leaks whether I'm using the live well or not....BUT, it could be leaking around those fittings...I sure hope so.

Thanks again!!


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## SPURCHASERX (May 23, 2008)

Check any hoses to live wells as well
I froze & split one one winter 
Also check rubber gasket on deck plate if you have one in motor well near transome
That will leak if you have back wash


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## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

I would love to replace all hoses and fittings, but I see no way of getting "under" the floor. Everything is riveted then there would be removing the seat pedestals and maybe new carpeting...If I had a garage it would be a good winter project.

I still have hopes it's a simple fix...if I can find the problem.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

If you have water in the boat and inspect externally not finding any leaks in any rivets,seams or transom area, would do exactly as Lewis suggested here:


Lewis said:


> Plug the thru hull livewell holes before your next trip and see if the boat stays dry. Sounds like a lot of water for a rivet.


You would then know your leak is in the plumbing of either your bilge or livewell sys.

FWIW...it's always a good idea to not only carry an extra main drain plug in your boat but plugs to fit all openings below water line. Never know when a hose you can't see will start to leak or possibly a mouse has chewed a hole in an internal hose. I carry push in plugs like this:


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

do you have rollers or bunks ? I have rollers on mine and they are tough on the hull. small cracks develop where the rollers sit.. fastwater has the idea had to fill mine with water and look for leaks. that is a lot of water for short time .


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

Lewis said:


> Plug the thru hull livewell holes before your next trip and see if the boat stays dry. Sounds like a lot of water for a rivet.


Great advice


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

Put a heavy dose of Food Coloring in as you fill the boat on the trailer. Use Blue or Black. Even the rivets hidden bu the bunks will be detected. How you seal them is up to you.


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## ducknut141 (Apr 26, 2017)

That's not much of a leak to me. My 16 foot Aluminum boat is doing allot better now and the auto bilge runs about every 25 to 30 minutes for 30-40 seconds and it's an 800 gph pump. I think guys put to much in "IT DOESN'T LEAK". If you seriously use a riveted aluminum boat it will develop some leaks. If you don't want it to leak leave it in the garage.


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

ducknut141 said:


> That's not much of a leak to me. My 16 foot Aluminum boat is doing allot better now and the auto bilge runs about every 25 to 30 minutes for 30-40 seconds and it's an 800 gph pump. I think guys put to much in "IT DOESN'T LEAK". If you seriously use a riveted aluminum boat it will develop some leaks. If you don't want it to leak leave it in the garage.


Hope you have a good PFD and battery.


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## ducknut141 (Apr 26, 2017)

I have both and two bilge pumps. I also run my boat 20+ miles out on Lake Erie as I said WAY to much is put into no leaks. Minimize as much as possible yes. By the way Change your drain plug I have seen them cause many leaks.


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

16 ft aluminum boat....leaks...20 miles out on Lake Erie. (news at 11:00)


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## bridgeman (Aug 26, 2010)

If you resort to putting water on the boat while it's on the trailer make sure you support the frame, too much H2O will bend your axles.. 5 or 6 gallons for a day out ain't much... I wouldn't sweat it..


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

I don,t agree that all aluminum boats leak. my 1993 doesn,t leak has a million miles on it and gets towed back an forth to arizona. start simple bilge pump hoses etc.


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## ducknut141 (Apr 26, 2017)

I didn't say all, but some people put to much into leaks. It's GREAT if you have one that doesn't. I have broken way to much ice and been in to many big waves to even think mine shouldn't leak.


I don't know why you would say news at 11:00. If you know what you are doing and know the weather FORECAST and your boat no big deal. I don't feel much different at 20 miles than I do at Mosquito Lake or in a harbor it's all water and knowing your boat and your ability.


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## Fishingisfun (Jul 19, 2012)

My boat developed serious a leak, it had before been very dry. I looked all over and the only thing I noticed was a stainless screw on the drain plug looked rusty. It seemed unlikely but I checked that it was snug and applied some marine sealant. I was surprised the next time out all was dry. Not the normal last thing I tried but the first idea. I should had bought a lottery ticket that day also.


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## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

New drain plug was the first thing I changed. Good thing too...it was brittle but evidently worked.
I hate the thought of ripping up the floor to get to the hoses.
For me, there's no such thing as a "simple job", they always turn into a nightmare


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## ducknut141 (Apr 26, 2017)

Glad to hear it was a simple fix


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

ducknut141 said:


> I didn't say all, but some people put to much into leaks. It's GREAT if you have one that doesn't.


I can't disagree with this. I've seen more riveted aluminum hulls that had at least some minor leaking than I've seen that were completely dry. That doesn't make them unsafe and it sure doesn't mean they shouldn't be used.
I know mine has some leaking. It's leaked for probably at least the last 15 years. It may get a few gallons in the hull and it's not worth the time and effort to completely strip the hull to find them. I try to inspect the bottom of the boat on occasion to make sure nothing major is going on.

Sure I wish my hull was dry at the end of the day but it's not and after years and years of trying to solve the mystery of where the water is coming from I will say I don't loose any sleep over it.


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

my crestliner leaks but only on rough days , may pump a gallon ...but on calm days maybe a cup full.. old crate is 86 .. and I run the snot out of it on erie lol. I just smear dev con where the leak is and wella …. my ride aint pretty but a lot of fish hits the floor.


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## humpty dumpty (Nov 30, 2013)

I had a boat with a leak.,, I first plugged all intakes . livewell and drains. then take some food coloring and put it in the bilge area next to drain leaving boat tied down on trailer have someone back your boat slowly into water stopping every few inches while you watch the bilge area for any signs of water infiltration. water will make it's way into the boat when boat is in the water because of the displacement it's basically under pressure it you notice water coming in stop backing boat in and have someone take a picture of the boat and it will give you an idea of where the leak is. one rivet will let in a ton of water.
I fish into December and I would never go on the water with water coming in the boat. I know lots that do. It is just the risk one chooses to make.. The leak_ had turned out to be a rivet that was under the bunk so when I put water in the boat the rivet was compressed under the bunk not allowing water to drip. Check all transducer screws. If you put water in your boat take a small rubber mallet and go around and tap the underside of your boat 
as water will adhere to itself like filling a glass over the top edge pm me if you wish I fixed mine with blind rivet. and 3m 5200 sealant/adhesive. good luck._


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## DHower08 (Nov 20, 2015)

Terry replace your drain plug just cause she looks good don't mean she ain't letting water in


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## still casting (Jul 9, 2006)

fastwater said:


> If you have water in the boat and inspect externally not finding any leaks in any rivets,seams or transom area, would do exactly as Lewis suggested here:
> 
> 
> You would then know your leak is in the plumbing of either your bilge or livewell sys.
> ...


where did you buy those push in plugs?


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

still casting said:


> where did you buy those push in plugs?


I collected mine over the yrs working in the hydraulic industry.
New hyd.,oil, cooler lines etc come with these types of plugs in the ends.
You could order them online or if you have a hydraulic repair shop or maybe a tractor repair shop close by, the guys working there would most likely give them to you.

Here's a place on line:
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...ahUKEwjEpuOXw4PcAhUN8YMKHfIMDcQQwg8ILQ&adurl=

But don't know if they sell plugs individually or have to buy a quantity. You will have to measure the holes in your boat to get size.

Also, I remember one hole in my boat I could not get the right size plastic plug so I took a thick piece of rubber and used the bench grinder to grind it to size.


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## jbo (Apr 24, 2014)

TClark said:


> New drain plug was the first thing I changed. Good thing too...it was brittle but evidently worked.
> I hate the thought of ripping up the floor to get to the hoses.
> For me, there's no such thing as a "simple job", they always turn into a nightmare


No way I would rip up floor for a leak of 1 gal +/- per hour. Thats a milk jugs worth. If I were that concerned buy an extra bilge pump.


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## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

One would need to rip up the floor to use a milk jug....just sayin


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## still casting (Jul 9, 2006)

fastwater said:


> I collected mine over the yrs working in the hydraulic industry.
> New hyd.,oil, cooler lines etc come with these types of plugs in the ends.
> You could order them online or if you have a hydraulic repair shop or maybe a tractor repair shop close by, the guys working there would most likely give them to you.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I will check that place out. funny I have been using a cork out of a wine bottle, works real well.


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## fastwater (Apr 1, 2014)

still casting said:


> Thanks, I will check that place out. funny I have been using a cork out of a wine bottle, works real well.


The cork idea is a good one also.
There are a few things that would work in an emergency situation while out on the water. Just prepping ahead of time and having something stashed in the boat for an emergency situation may save the day. Never know when an internal hose going to a livewell or something may spring a leak.


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## JCsHOOK (Apr 18, 2004)

I have a 1994 17' deep V Tracker. A few years ago I notice more water than usual when I pull the plug when I pull out of the lake. I looked all over the place with no visual damage so I decide to go by some red dye used for tracing drainage. I put about 10 gallons in the bilge with the dye. It had red dripping from a dozen rivets at least. I did some homework on rivets and bought a big bag of "closed end blind rivets" a heavy duty rivet gun and marine hull sealant. It was a 6 hour job drilling out the old and putting in the new rivets but man was it worth it. No water at all unless it comes over the rail. The other thing I noticed right away was no more "crunch" when you hit one of those waves a little to hard. It even feels more solid than it ever did. In a couple posts below I explain in detail how to go about this repair. I hope this is helpful to all on this board.


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## TClark (Apr 20, 2007)

Email sent JCsHook


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## JCsHOOK (Apr 18, 2004)

Leaking rivet repair for aluminum boat hull.

You will need some Drain Tracer Dye from the hardware, or a few little bottles of red food coloring.

Have the boat on the trailer sitting close to level. Pour 15 - 20 gallons of water into the bilge and add dye.

The amount of water needed depends on your boat. I wanted to be sure to get up to all of the rivets on the lower half of the hull.

You will see the red colored water start to drip or run from any leaky rivets or cracks in a short time.

**My boat had 3/16" diameter rivets in it so I replaced them with 1/4" diameter rivets. I figured the old rivets 
had beat up the original hole so it would probably be oversized, that is the reasoning for the 1/4" inch replacements.**

The tools you will need to replace the rivets are as followed,

3M marine adhesive sealant fast cure 5200 $13 on ebay

Closed End Blind Rivets, you can get them from www.rivetsonline.com

I used 1/4" body diameter, Dome Head, Grip Range 1/4" - 3/8", Aluminum rivets with Steel Mandrel. 100 pcs for $14 **Once you set the rivet the steel part is down in the rivet body, if you are worried about rust put some of the sealant in the hole once your are done.**

Heavy duty rivet set from Harbor Freight part # 66422 $20

3/16" drill bit, 1/4" drill bit, electric or pneumatic drill, center punch, hammer.
Eye protection is a good idea!

I took my boat off of the trailer because I planed on replacing a large number of rivets.
But it depends on how many you are replacing.

Center punch the rivets you want to replace, punch them AS CLOSE TO CENTER AS POSSIBLE, drill it out with the 3/16" drill, or even a smaller one to get started, 
then carefully open up the hole to 1/4".

With a larger drill bit 1/2" or so be very very carefull and make a small chamfer (fish mouth) 
on the opening of the hole. This will make the rivet set flush with the hull. Do not push hard and go all the way through!!!

Clean up around the hole with some sandpaper or wire brush, make sure it is totally clean.

Put a good amount of the 3M sealant on the rivet, I put a small amount on the body but I put put it on under the head pretty heavy.

Put the rivet in the rivet insert tool. push it in so you are positive the rivet is all the way in the hull, then while pushing up on the rivet tool start to work the tool to expand the rivet.

Make no mistake, it takes some muscle to set this type of rivet. When it is set the tool will break off the mandrel and the rivet replacement is complets. 

I only recommend this repair for someone that knows there way around hand tools and can drill a straight hole, and most of all you need to be patient and take your time.
I hope this is helpful.


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## mosquito walleye (Aug 3, 2012)

Happened to my boat early this year and I have a 2017 new boat. Noticed when I was on Lake Early out of Huron early in the year that my bilge was turning on almost immediately on my first trip to Erie for the year. It ended up being my livewell fittings. The tube going through the bottom of the boat to my front livewell cracked as I accidently must have left a little water in the tube and it cracked the tube right in half from the front livewell pump, I have 2 livewells in my boat. Got it fixed and now my boat doesn't leak once again. Like a couple people have said, plug the hole since it is always under water and if your boat stays dry, well then you know what the problem is. I am now always remembering to use Antifreeze during the winter for my livewell lines.


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## humpty dumpty (Nov 30, 2013)

thumbs up guys.. The thing with a leaking boat,, is it a rivet leaking or is there a small crack in the hull flexing. something is causing stress somewhere and if let go then it works on the rivets beside the original loose rivet or a small crack getting bigger? jc repaired them just as I did.. my hardest part was taking a small drill bit and drilling the old rivet dead center so I would be able to get new rivet centered in hole,, take steel wool and clean around area where new rivet goes take air and blow up in hole to remove dirt on inside area. good luck,,


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