# Painting the boat trailer.



## randymcfishnsfun2 (Dec 24, 2014)

what paint do you suggest? I'm going to use rustoleum if I don't have any better recommendations. It's an old trailer for an old boat so I'm not looking to put a lot of money into it. I'm going to update the lights with LED's also. Any input is very much appreciated! How you guys did yours and what lights to get. The trailer is about 18' long.


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## BlueMax (Dec 3, 2006)

I do not have a recommendation for paint but if you are putting the time and elbow grease into this little project then do yourself a favor and use the best primer and paint for the application. Nothing worse than busting your butt only to see rust again in 5 months.


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

X2 on the paint and primer. Priming is a very important step if you want any paint to perform as intended. For lights get the Harbor Freight LED lights for marine trailers,.


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## Buck-Eye (Jul 9, 2008)

For about $90. you can buy the Herculiner Truck Bed Liner Kit. A 3 step kit that if done correctly will last.
1. Prep the trailer (skuff it up)
2. Apply (brush or roll)
3. Let dry

Used this on my last boat trailer. Was still in good shape 5 years later.
Had my current boat trailer professionally sprayed with Herculiner 6 years ago. Five times more expensive, but it still looks and functions great.


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## baitguy (Dec 17, 2013)

Buck-Eye said:


> For about $90. you can buy the Herculiner Truck Bed Liner Kit. A 3 step kit that if done correctly will last.
> 1. Prep the trailer (skuff it up)
> 2. Apply (brush or roll)


Buckeye .... where would I find that kit?


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## Buck-Eye (Jul 9, 2008)

Online for sure. Purchased mine at a NAPA store. I'm sure other automotive stores carry it.


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## bdawg (Apr 14, 2009)

I just spray painted my trailer last spring. I used Rustoleum and was happy with the results so far. I prepped the trailer for painting by sanding the rough spots with a grinding bit attached to a drill. It seemed to take off the flaking paint and rust pretty well.


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## Spike Dog (Mar 13, 2015)

Definitely get all the rust off that you can first. A sand blaster is ideal, but if you don't have access to one then a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder or on a drill will work. Then prime it, then paint it (or bed liner if you go that route).
I like to use rustoleum *Hammered spray paint to go over steel that is pitted from rust. The hammered texture covers up and blends in the pitting very well.
It's going to look great when your done. It's a great feeling of accomplishment when you stand back and look at it after the new paint job.


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## Tightlines (Jun 29, 2012)

This stuff works good.


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## MIKIE (Sep 14, 2004)

I used Rustoleum professional. So far it is working good after two years.


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## baitguy (Dec 17, 2013)

bdawg said:


> I just spray painted my trailer last spring. I used Rustoleum and was happy with the results so far. I prepped the trailer for painting by sanding the rough spots with a grinding bit attached to a drill. It seemed to take off the flaking paint and rust pretty well.


bdawg ... were you satisfied with the coverage for the spray paint? How many cans of paint did you need for what size trailer? Did you use spray cans you'd get at HD or Lowes? Was there a reason you chose spray over brushed / rolled from a can? Do you feel that brushed on paint from a can might be more durable because of the thickness of the paint?

mikie - do you know the difference between regular Rustoleum and the "Professional" version? Was that a spray or brush application?


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## Frankie G (Aug 18, 2014)

Truck bed liner would be my first choice for sure. The only kind I have experience is the Rust-Oleum brand. I did find that the spray cans come out way smoother and way more even than the roll on stuff, at least for me. I helped a friend add some expanded steel sides to an old trailer and we decided to go all the way and re-paint that trailer during the process. He hauls a lot of stuff in that trailer and beats the crap out of it really. We did it 4 years ago. It's needed a couple of touch ups since then but the touch ups come out looking great.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

I would simply use black rustoleum paint put on with a brush. then if any rust comes through in future, simply use a wire brush to rough up and then paint more on... will not be the most beautiful trailer out there but it will be functional for a long time - and look better than one professionally painted that begins to chip and rust, that you can't match the paint for touchups...


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## guppygill (May 8, 2004)

I second the LED lights from Harbor Freight, installed them 2 years ago, never a problem with them.


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## fishdealer04 (Aug 27, 2006)

I have had good success with the Rustoleum paint. Never done a whole trailer but touched up areas and have held up for years. My buddy uses the harbor freight light kit and hasn't had any issues with it after 2 years as well.


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## MIKIE (Sep 14, 2004)

I don't know the difference. I brushed it on an it flowed out smooth. Bright red!


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## randymcfishnsfun2 (Dec 24, 2014)

I was thinking I'd apply the rustoleum with a small roller and only have to brush on small, hard to get to areas. The bed liner is a good idea also. Definitely going to sand and primer it first. I want to stay cheap but I don't want to repaint it next year. I'll probably go with the harbor freight lights too. Thanks for the info guys! I'll post pics of the finished product when I can. Probably not going to really get started on it till next weekend.


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## privateer (Apr 26, 2012)

make sure you are within the temp parameters of applying the paint or you may get poor results.


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## 1MoreKast (Mar 15, 2008)

I was able to get my hands on the same paint that is used to paint industrial machinery. I think it is oil based but it goes on thick and takes a solid 24 hours to fully dry. Very tacky stuff but it sits heavy and I put it on all the hardware. Actually helps secure some of the nuts and bolts too.


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## randymcfishnsfun2 (Dec 24, 2014)

privateer said:


> make sure you are within the temp parameters of applying the paint or you may get poor results.


Yes, hopefully it'll be warm enough next weekend. If not I'll at least get if fully prepped and ready for paint.


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## leeabu (Apr 10, 2004)

randymcfishnsfun2 said:


> Yes, hopefully it'll be warm enough next weekend. If not I'll at least get if fully prepped and ready for paint.


Harbor Freight also has one gallon cans of the bed liner for about the same price as a gallon of rustoleum at Home depot.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

*Loctite makes an excellent rust arresting primer to be used after wire brushing away the surface rust. You can apply any secondary primer and finish coat over the Loctite. I have used it with excellent results.
Advantage of spray painting is the fine spray penetrates into the pitted area as well as seams. Same thing for those rusted rims. *


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## Ripley (May 10, 2010)

Try POR (paint over rust). Wire brush the heavy rust, flake rust, then apply. POR hardens and turns black which can be painted over or not. All the hot rodders, do it yourselfers, and crafters I know have used it for years. If its gonna rust, or is rusted this is hard to beat. It saves alot of time and effort. Check it out.

http://www.por15.com


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## Jon Yenulonis (Feb 9, 2014)

I painted stuff like this professionally for many years when I was younger. (I worked at an amusement park that was re-opened after about ten years. All of the metal was rusty).

Here's what we would do. Scrape, sand and wire brush all of the loose scale and surface rust you can get off of the metal. We used old files, paint scrapers, sand paper and mostly a wire brush on an angle grinder. Remember, the new paint is only as good as whats under it. If the old paint is solid, I prepped properly, the new paint will be too. Make sure to wear eye protection! Gloves help too.

After removing all the loose stuff, clean with paint thinner. You'll want to make sure you get all of the dust, oil and hand grease off or the paint won't stick.

Brush on a liberal coat of Ospho. It's a rust killer. I just bought a bottle from my local Sherwin Williams Store. ( no problems getting it, just had to special order it). It is real thin like water and goes a long ways. It goes on clear, then turns black as it chemically kills the rust. Let it dry per instructions.

Then paint with a good quality OIL BASED enamel. Rust Oleum is probably as good as you'll need. We sometimes used industrial paints, but I don't remember a whole lot of difference over time. Just a lot of difference in drying time and clean up. Some of those paints required very harsh chemicals to thin and clean. Nasty stuff. Rust Oleum only needs ordinary paint thinner.

I would go with a gray as opposed to black. Black shows everything too much, but the color is up to you.

These few extra steps will help your work last a lot longer over the long haul.

Good luck, and good fishin'

Jon


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## randymcfishnsfun2 (Dec 24, 2014)

Well I went with the rustoleum. We're in the process of making her new again.















Most of the trailer hanging and bare.















I forgot to take a pic of the primer but we're on our way to an almost new trailer. First coat of the last coats.


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