# Problem with Suzuki 40



## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Have a 40 hs oil injected 2 stroke having issues, in the drive with muffs or in barrel you can put it drive and it revs and gives you all the RPM's you want everything runs perfect water stream and everything is fine. Put it in the lake starts fine every time but when you crack the throttle it will not go up on plane, seems like it is not getting enough power. If you put it in neutral revs strong, put it in gear and it just don't have the RPM's. One guy said it sounds like motor is in limp mode but don't know why or how to get it out. Very puzzled any ideas would be appreciated.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Im no professional but to me sounds like a load issue. If the motor was going into a protect mode or a derate if you will. it would do it at idle also sounds like a air fuel carb issue or some kind of linkage issue. I not sure but its were id start. Let me know what you find out. But 2 stroke engine alaways start at carb.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks squid, it is so frustrating. Idles great, literally does everything good. Except like you said when you put a load on it.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Id start by getting it up to operating temp and using a little carb cleaner. It doesn't always work but it will only cost 8 bucks and its a starting point. Just make sure carb is clean around the air intake. Dont want any more debris in there. But usually it needs a good rebuild. good luck


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

Do you have a tach on the engine? You will know right away if it is a limp mode issue if the engine revs to a certain RPM everytime. If the revs fluctuate then you have a different issue. If you have a limp mode issue you need to find out what that is- an overheat issue or a lack of oiling issue. That would probably be the only thing to trigger limp mode on an engine that small. If it isn't a limp mode issue, see if it will run on the water while you pump the bulb by hand. That will isolate a weak fuel pump. If it still lacks power, carb issue or electrical ignition issue. Could be a lot of variables at this point.


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

If it is in limp mode and you know it's getting oil and it's not overheating, you have a sensor issue or a chafed wire. Check the harness for rubs or cuts that could be allowing contact to ground. (Cylinder head, etc.)


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

UFM, motor doesn't have a tach, revs awesome except when you put it in forward. Ran the motor at the end of duck season last year, its getting oil and doesn't overheat. Took it to a guy and he thought the oil injected was bad so he by passed it and ran gas oil mix and didn't work. So I'm back at square one. But I told him it was using oil I could tell, the oil in the reservoir would go down a little. No one around my area within 50 miles wants to work on Suzuki's. Thanks for input.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Start w/most basic and important,COMPRESSION TEST.If that turns up good,I'm betting you have an electrical issue.Coil pack,switch box,etc.(not sure about old 'zukis).


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

are you sure your prop is not slipping. could be a bad hub.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Not sure, if the prop was slipping would the engine rev high? because the engine RPM's stay the same. But I'm not sure what the symptoms would be for a slipping prop. Thanks for the input.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

big ducks said:


> Not sure, if the prop was slipping would the engine rev high? because the engine RPM's stay the same. But I'm not sure what the symptoms would be for a slipping prop. Thanks for the input.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

If the prop was slipping it should high rev the motor due to no load. Kinda like when the chain on ur bike pops. Ive had small engines like lawn mowers do the same thing iys usually carb. I know there diffent tnings but a engine is a engine. The jets are so small in those carbs that it will choke the fuel at high end with the smallest piece of debris


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## fishingguy (Jan 5, 2006)

A great driveway running motor that will not perform under load is most probably a fuel issue. If this is an older motor, service every part of the fuel system. Remove and rebuild the carbs, change filters, all fuel lines from the tank to the motor, along with all internal lines. It's easy with the carbs removed. My motor had the same issue, the top carb of my merc was filled with black crud. Get a large can of carb cleaner and soak the carbs. Use compressed air to blow out all the crud built up in the orifices. The fuel pump, usually is not the issue, but you can rebuild or replace that too.


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## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

Make sure your getting sufficient fuel. Check lines / vent, etc...


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

[QI UOTE="Misdirection, post: 2061723, member: 36187"]Make sure your getting sufficient fuel. Check lines / vent, etc...[/QUOTE]


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## bountyhunter (Apr 28, 2004)

I read your post again I still think you have a prop problem, rev,s up but goes no where.


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## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

The easy way to check for a spun prop is to take a permanent marker and draw a line from the prop onto the hub. Take the boat out for a spin (no pun) and bring it back in. If the lines aren't lined up, you found your problem.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Well its me again had a compression test on the motor and everything turned out good, had the hub checked everything fine with the hub.the one mechanic said he thought it was electrical and he wasnt good with the electrical. Another guy said linkage or the clutch, didn't even know a 40 hrs had a clutch.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Without having the motor to hear and see it Makes it hard But my money is still in a air fuel issue. I wouldnt cross out electrical issues but usually it would act up at bottom end as well as top end. Have you had the carb cleaned/looked at or all the fuel lines etc. look at it this way. How many times have you or someone you know. Had a problem with a weed eater or a blower etc. when you start it it runs fine till u give it gas. Boom right on its face. It dies your left cursing forign parts. Well 90% of the time its just a clogged jet. Or a leaking diaphragm. If you take a twist tie off the loaf of bread and remove the plastic covering. You can use it to clean inside the jets. Thats how tiny they are. Doesnt take much dirt or varnish from bad fuel to clog it all up let me know what you find. Im now curious


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks for the reply squid, the guy that did the compression test said that he checked the carb and lines and said everything looked good. I'm not sure I'm not real mechanical so I just have to take his word. But he said he thought something elec.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Did he just do a compression test or also a leak down test? I'm still firm on my compression or electrical issue.Take it somewhere reputable.No sense guessing.If an "outboard mechanic"'isn't good w/electrical" he's not a mechanic.Get it fixed.Please reply back w/results when you do.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Not sold on compression but electrical/air/ fuel is were its at. But have u checked the plugs are they black, wet, or a tanish color. Ive seen "mechanics" miss diagnose easy thing because they over look something even simpler. Kinda the whole cant see the forest thing. A good mechanic should be able to figure it out.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

I don't necessarily think its compression related but a leakdown test(should be one w/compression check at a "shop") would completely rule it out.That's what working on motors is.Ruling out things to find the culprit,most times.Electrical issues can be tricky.But there are definite,precise ways to check for these.A GOOD mechanic will have you diagnosed properly,quickly and back on the water as quick as the part(s) come in.


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

Squid- no offense meant but, your electrical/fuel/air comment made me chuckle. Engines require 3 things to run so your diagnosis was dead on. LOL. 
That being said, I'm interested to hear what the problem finally winds up being.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Well no offense taken and please dont take any yourself. but one guy said he thought it was linkage or clutch. Another said the prop or hub. With all that aside its in the engine or wiring. I had a guy whos 6 hp. Would only idol because the timing gear had worn and was skipping and another guy took his 15 hp into another shop and they couldnt find any reason for it not to start that mechanic checked the 3 basics and it had them all. But he didnt check if the spark was stong enough. So i checked spark strength it ended up being the magnito was going bad . So yes u need the three basics. But once that's established you need to move into other things. He can take all the advice in the world off here. But until a mechanic actually does diagnostic work its anyones guess. And be careful there is alot of great mechanics out there but there is just as many parts replacers. Who are willing to just throw money at things instead of knowledge


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

Agreed- I work with some everyday.


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## Shortdrift (Apr 5, 2004)

*Some basic questions*:

1) Are you the original owner or was this purchased as a used motor?

2) Has the motor performed properly for you in the past? 

3) If the answer to 2) is yes, what changes have you made, if any, to
the boat, or the loading of the boat, or the motor, including the prop.

4) If this was a problem from the start of your ownership (If purchased 
used) it could be as simple as being severely over propped or 
combination of prop and boat load. Previous owner may have had a 
totally different boat design and load.


I have a 14.5 ft Semi-V with a new 20hp 4S that would not plane or achieve high end RPM's. Went to a lower pitch prop, from a 10 to a 9, boat planed out at 16 mph and gained RPM's to the point that the RPM limiter (over rev ) started cutting the motor out. Added a hydro-foil and went back to the 10 prop which resulted in recommended RPM's as well as 21 mph.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Bought the boat 9 yrs ago and it's used, nothing has changed, tried 3 different props, 2 with different pitches. Until last duck season the boat has ran perfect, have a boat mechanic looking at it next week. Hopefully he has the answer.


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## MassillonBuckeye (May 3, 2010)

big ducks said:


> Bought the boat 9 yrs ago and it's used, nothing has changed, tried 3 different props, 2 with different pitches. Until last duck season the boat has ran perfect, have a boat mechanic looking at it next week. Hopefully he has the answer.


I'm going with bad coil. Clean the plugs and run it for a few min then check the plugs. Do you have unburnt gas? When I first bought my boat it had a similar condition.. I'd start to throttle up, you could hear the carbs opening as the sound of the motor got "throatier" but it didn't equate to more power. I was running on 2 of 3 cylinders. Among other problems lol. She runs great now! 1978 Mercury 70HP.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Well, some of youguys wanted to know what the problem was with the motor, got a call today from the boat mechanic that runs a near by marina. He said he ran a bunch of tests on the motor and put a new 120 dollar prop on it and he said everything checks out and his answer is that the motor is just wore out and has served its time. The new prop didn't help a bit, he was already told we tried new props. I'm calling bull****! But as I said I'm not very mechanical. This is crazy, 2 different mech and no answers I'm about to give up. Very very frustrated.


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## Seaturd (Apr 14, 2004)

If it passed compression & leakdown tests it ain't wore out.... my guess is one or more ignition coils is bad - probably heat or load related. Thermal expansion causing a very fine crack to open up or something along those lines. It's happened to a number of Merc owners I know - could happen to a Suzuki too.


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## Squid (Mar 22, 2015)

Well my first response was load issue. Ive had a lot of engines brought to me were it would idol fine but stumble at top end. Most times its carb related but coils could be failing at top end. It could be the governor linkage to the carb out of adj. Dont know if it has seperate plug wires. But u can spray water on the wires at dust or dawn it will be easier to see. Then start it up and look for spark arcing. Ps dont shock ur self. Where do u live that u keep getting these mechanics. Im staying away from there.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

As I've twice stated,its most likely coil related.You need to post your location ASAP so someone near you can give you the name of a REAL MECHANIC!!! If compression AND leakdown test shows good results your motor is not shot.All else can be fixed quickly.You'd already have been back on the water over a month ago had you sought out a GOOD mechanic near you.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Live in the Mansfield area, almost all area mech will not work on it because it's a Suzuki. The motor is from mid 80's and I'm wondering if it's worth chasing the all the possible problems. 2 obviously not great mech can't find out the problem. Get just getting frustrated. I appreciate you guys trying to help for sure. What's the ave price of a coil pack? Luckily I haven't had to use the boat and motor since last duck season but this season is getting close.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

Did you heed my advice I pm'd you? That site is where you'll get proper answers from guys who know.Its that or do some calling and asking questions to find a good one close to you.I can't imagine Suzuki's are very much different animals.


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## Seaturd (Apr 14, 2004)

http://www.danssouthsidemarine.com/suzuki-parts/
find your part numbers for your ignition coils and go.


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## big ducks (Sep 23, 2014)

Caj, didn't know you pm'd me. I called all area boat mech and they all said the same thing, only work on either merc's or evinrude or Johnson's. Knox is supposed to be real good but they wouldn't work on it either. Didn't want to have to take it to Cleveland or Columbus but sounds like that's the closests. But who would know who is really good or might be the same problem.


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## MassillonBuckeye (May 3, 2010)

Google SPARK GAP TEST and do that. If the spark can't jump the 1/2" gap, it's not enough. Those dumb little xenon spark testers aren't good enough. o'Riley auto carries spark gap testers. I'd start there.


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## Cajunsaugeye (Apr 9, 2013)

I'll try to PM again if you didn't receive it.


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## MassillonBuckeye (May 3, 2010)

Ugh. Double post and I can't delete? sorry.


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

I'm dying here. I HAVE to know what's going on. I'm more than a little disgusted with a mechanic who claims they "can't" work on an engine because of the brand. Guess what? There really isn't a huge difference between any engine that hp. I would be willing to bet that there are a number of people on this very site that could look at your engine and have it diagnosed within an hour. Keep going! Get it fixed!


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## steelneyes2 (Jul 19, 2011)

UFM82 said:


> I'm dying here. I HAVE to know what's going on. I'm more than a little disgusted with a mechanic who claims they "can't" work on an engine because of the brand. Guess what? There really isn't a huge difference between any engine that hp. I would be willing to bet that there are a number of people on this very site that could look at your engine and have it diagnosed within an hour. Keep going! Get it fixed!


While there are quite a few who are probably qualified to work on it, most shops will stick to what they know. We take on OMC motors exclusively at the shop I'm at. Others only do Mercs or Yamaha and many only do I/O work. It's about parts availability, familiarity and trying to pay the bills and stay in business. Unfortunately, the OP is getting the run around because he has an old Suzuki. It's hard to get a guy to accept a $500+ bill for a motor that may be worth $1000 at best. Parts sourcing for those motors is awful, many things are obsolete. With the surplus of customers needing "easy" repairs ( equals familar and profitable) I see it all the time. Unfortunately, the OP's best chance at getting his motor fixed, will be at a shop that has the parts and pretty good knowledge on Zuks. Or a private guy who does stuff on the side. 
FWIW I'm with the ignition problem school of thought on this one. CDI breaking up or coil failing under load after it warms up. Carb problems are usually figured out quickly no matter how "bad" the mechanic is. THe guy who said he's no good with electrical probably just didn't want to start ordering coils and stators and power packs etc and has no manual to know what values to look for when testing.


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## steelneyes2 (Jul 19, 2011)

BTW the best starting place for diagnosing ANY outboard would be a FACTORY service manual. Not a Clymer, they aren't even useful to soak up spilled gear lube. Step by step elimination using a $25 volt meter and you'd probably know exactly what to order in an hour.


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## UFM82 (Apr 6, 2004)

I understand that steel and I know that what you said is dead on. Sometimes I just wish someone would step up. I see a lot of things (appliances, cars, electronics, etc) thrown away simply because no one knows how to fix it.


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## steelneyes2 (Jul 19, 2011)

UFM82 said:


> I understand that steel and I know that what you said is dead on. Sometimes I just wish someone would step up. I see a lot of things (appliances, cars, electronics, etc) thrown away simply because no one knows how to fix it.


I agree fully. It is hard and frustrating to watch. But most working age people now, grew up in the throw it out and buy a new one days. (I'm only 40 BTW). It is a thrill to fix an old 50's or 60's motor. Specific to the OP's motor though, were some pretty bad quality issues. There are very few survivors left from that era, most of the Suziki motors from back then rusted away from the salt water. Much like the original Hondas and Toyotas. Quality on them has improved significantly and I'd own one in a minute from the last 10 years. 
Sounds like you have PM'd him some information and I'll gladly chime in if it would help. Unfortunately no one has isolated the problem to either fuel or ignition. It's pretty hard to start in the middle. 
Also although not close by Dutch Harbor by Berlin Res. is a dealer and may be able to lend some assistance.


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