# Boat floor?



## Stampede (Apr 11, 2004)

Getting ready to replace the floor in the boat. Thinking of plywood and Thompson's water seal on both sides and heavy around the edges. Anyone try this?


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## Misdirection (Jul 16, 2012)

I think WorkDog has a post about this, and I recall him saying you need to coat the plywood with a two part epoxy to really seal them. You might want to search for his post and read it...

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## Bad Bub (Jan 17, 2006)

Yeah. Thompson's won't cut it. Either epoxy or glass it.

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## chris rab (Jan 4, 2012)

I did mine a year ago, I went the cost effective route. I used spar varnish ( few coats) and used a non skid paint instead of vinyl or carpet. So far it is holding up great and was way cheaper.


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## whjr15 (Jun 16, 2005)

chris rab said:


> I did mine a year ago, I went the cost effective route. I used spar varnish ( few coats) and used a non skid paint instead of vinyl or carpet. So far it is holding up great and was way cheaper.


I also redid mine, an 18' Crestliner, a couple years ago with spar varnish. If I remember correctly, I used 5 coats total, making sure to fill the knots/voids thoroughly. 

I guess it all boils down to what kind of boat you have. If it's a smaller aluminum, spar varnish (if applied correctly and thoroughly) is more than adequate. That epoxy resin gets EXPENSIVE.... FAST! Just *make sure not to use pressure-treated plywood*!!!! If you're going to carpet it anyway, or don't mind knots, use non-treated exterior grade. Marine grade is best, but you will pay dearly for it!!

If fiberglass, you're into a whole 'nother ball game! lol.


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## jjpugh (Feb 6, 2007)

im doing mine right now and i bought marine grade plywood from minards.(they were the cheapest but u have to order it). and then coated it with 3m 2 part fiber epoxy. i used cloth around the edges and around all seat holes live wells ex. I then got marideck adhesive for my marine vinyl flooring and it holds strong. i tried to go the extra step cause when im done i plan on using the s#@! out of this boat and i don't ever want to do this again. and from past work ive done to other boats i feel that if you go cheap or just get it done it always comes back to bite me in the butt. just my $.02 hope it helps


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

i did mine a few yrs ago and I used marine grade plywood. but I searched plywood on google and found out exterior grade plywood is just as good as marine grade plywood it just doesn't have the smooth finish. you just need to coat it in some type of good varnish and not just a water seal. I coated mine with a brush on bed liner for a truck but I don't know how that's going to work out yet. then I sealed all my seams and edges with cheese cloth and fiber glass. then bought some good carpet and glue from cabelas and put carpet on top. hopefully it will out last me. LOL.
sherman


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## Stampede (Apr 11, 2004)

Never heard of the cloth around the edge but upon thinking about it that makes sense.I'll have to do that and guess i'll switch to the spar instead of thompsons.Was going with thompsoms on someone else's recomendation and had wonders about that.I'm carpeting the floor but haven't bought the carpet yet,still looking into it.Thanks


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## whjr15 (Jun 16, 2005)

Stampede said:


> Never heard of the cloth around the edge but upon thinking about it that makes sense.I'll have to do that and guess i'll switch to the spar instead of thompsons.Was going with thompsoms on someone else's recomendation and had wonders about that.I'm carpeting the floor but haven't bought the carpet yet,still looking into it.Thanks




Yeah Thompsons is no good, you need something permanent... Think about it: on a backyard deck, you need to reapply the stuff every few years at best. Unless you plan on ripping your boat/carpet apart every couple years, this option is a definite no-go!!

- Epoxy resin/cloth and marine grade plywood is the best option, but cost prohibitive... You'll likely spend more than the boat is worth (provided its a smaller, older boat.) Since you're gonna carpet over it anyway, there is just no need to go the marine grade plywood route. 

- Exterior grade 3/4'' non-treated plywood/ spar varnish is a perfectly fine solution for an aluminum boat's deck. (like I said, if it's a fiberglass boat, you're talkin' something completely different.) Just make sure you seal it thoroughly; like I said, I used 5 coats of the stuff. You may need more on the edges/sides. 

I used outdoor carpet from Lowes, and after a couple years it still looks like the day I put it in.


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## FISNFOOL (May 12, 2009)

I used exterior grade 3/4 plywood and used the 2 part epoxy to seal it, then the non skid top coat, on the deck surface.

Overton's Tuff Coat Water-Based Epoxy Marine Primer and Hardener

Overton's Tuff Coat Rubberized Nonskid Marine Coating,


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## turkeyt (Apr 13, 2006)

Did mine in aluminum. Stargate Metals LLC in Columbus sells sheets in different thickness with no minimum. They can cut it too. Ask for Rick (foreman) Did my whole 16.5 for less than 175.00.


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## Stampede (Apr 11, 2004)

The cheese cloth, I'm guessing enough along the edges to wrap over the side. How many layers,1-2


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

Stampede said:


> The cheese cloth, I'm guessing enough along the edges to wrap over the side. How many layers,1-2


I just used one layer on my boat the fiberglass resin should do most of the sealing. I really saturated the cheese cloth with the resin. 

I did invest in some good marine carpet and glue from cabelas. I tried using a tool to put the glue down but ended up just using my hand, LOL.
sherman


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## hearttxp (Dec 21, 2004)

Stampede said:


> Getting ready to replace the floor in the boat. Thinking of plywood and Thompson's water seal on both sides and heavy around the edges. Anyone try this?


Use Good grade Marine or ext grade Plywood only. Do not use fiber glass resign since that is really not water proof.

Use expoy like west systems. Seal edges since that is where water will come in and rot the wood. Do this good before putting all pieces back in the boat.

After wards you can seal top surfaces also before covering with ? carpet or marine vinyl or even just Nonskid paint

But the edges are VERY important remember


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## bocajemma (Dec 29, 2008)

Only use marine grade plywood. Pressure treated or exterior grade plywood has chemicals that leach out as well as they use different glues and different softer woods in exterior grade. I would have to research but would venture to guess the chemicals in exterior grade ply would be corrosive to aluminum. Use marine grade and west systems epoxy and you won't be replacing any time soon 

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## whjr15 (Jun 16, 2005)

bocajemma said:


> Only use marine grade plywood. Pressure treated or exterior grade plywood has chemicals that leach out as well as they use different glues and different softer woods in exterior grade. I would have to research but would venture to guess the chemicals in exterior grade ply would be corrosive to aluminum. *Use marine grade and west systems epoxy and you won't be replacing any time soon *
> 
> Sent from my XT907 using Ohub Campfire mobile app


Your last sentence is the only true statement in your whole paragraph!!! Money not being an issue, I agree for sure. 

- Exterior grade and marine grade *both* use a waterproof glue between the plies. Exterior contains no extra "chemicals", as you say, than marine grade does. 

The only way they differ is that marine grade lacks the voids/knots, has a uniform thickness throughout the plies, is lighter yet stronger, and just flat-out looks better. You would definitely want to use marine grade if the wood itself is going to be the finished surface (not covered with carpet/vinyl) or if you're building an actual boat out of it. 

- *Pressure-treated* (ACQ) lumber contains copper (it's an ingredient in the "treatment" solution) and _will_ react with the aluminum over time (galvanic corrosion). You could, theoretically, dry it out before sealing and be fine, but I don't see the point and wouldn't chance it.

Stampede, if you want to use marine grade, then go for it. It will be 2-3x more though, and you plan on covering it's selling point with carpet anyway! Either way, you'll still have to do the same amount of sealing. Like Mike said, it's all about the edges! They will practically drink the stuff, but you gotta keep giving it to 'em!


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## Stampede (Apr 11, 2004)

I've never used spar varnish,what's the difference on plywood using spar varnish or spar urethane.


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## bocajemma (Dec 29, 2008)

whjr15 said:


> Your last sentence is the only true statement in your whole paragraph!!! Money not being an issue, I agree for sure.
> 
> - Exterior grade and marine grade *both* use a waterproof glue between the plies. Exterior contains no extra "chemicals", as you say, than marine grade does.
> 
> ...


 You are correct that I mistakenly lumped pressure treated with exterior grade for the leaching. There are many more differences between marine grade and exterior grade than you note. I still stand by my OPINION that marine grade and west systems epoxy is the way to go. Again just my opinion and how I do my repairs 


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## whjr15 (Jun 16, 2005)

bocajemma said:


> I still stand by my OPINION that marine grade and west systems epoxy is the way to go.


Oh I agree! That is THE way to go! But that doesn't mean there aren't equal alternatives for different situations/applications.

Like a Bentley (marine grade + epoxy resin) vs. Ford Focus (exterior grade + spar) kinda thing. Both cars will get you from point a to b, and can last you the same amount of time if maintained properly (thoroughly sealed). Some situations just don't call for/justify a Bentley. But, with that being said, if you've got Bentley money, you're gonna rock the Bentley! 

The OP still hasn't told us anything about his boat. That would give us a better idea of his own situation. I'm still just assuming it's aluminum. If it's a little 14' jon with an easily-accessable "drop-in" kinda deck, I'd probably give a different answer than if it was a bigger more complicated deck/storage/seat layout!

Oh, I almost forgot... If you're gonna screw it down (still don't know your boat situation!) make sure you use stainless hardware, and 3M 5200 to seal all the holes you make by screwing it down. If you don't, then you might as well not even seal any of it in the first place!


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## Stampede (Apr 11, 2004)

It's a 14' Grumman fishing boat,aluminum. I've got stainless screws for putting the floor down .I know not to use treated plywood.

Here's what I'm doing based on what a older guy told me. He's worked and dealt with a lot of lumber over the years. First is sand the plywood to help clean it and smooth it. Then one good coat of Olympic wood protector, not Thompson's. After that's good and dry,then i'll coat it with spar urethane,probally three coats.I'm also doing the cheese cloth around the edges. This should outlast me.


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