# any good info



## MEISTERICS (May 15, 2006)

so after all this nonsense, does anyone have any good info to offer. and NO a boga grip is not good for release. lipping the fish(while in the water is ok but i would wear a glove). Teeth are sharp. and do not lift it out of the water this way.

So now yet another post had been locked. How about we have some good info on how to release. 

If this were the TSS 5 of 10 people would have given good info. the last 5 would have argued or said something ignorant. The last 2 days the OGF members have given almost nill! Lets show what good the site has to offer.

EVERYONE has seemed to have missed the point of all the frustration. Why let an animal go if its dead anyway. Its about wasting life. The man who mishandled the fish could use some good info and i am sure would be willing to take it. His intentions were ment well. now lets help him out. his release rate will surely increase.

I will start. AGAIN!

1. dont grab a fish that is intended to be released by the gill plate!

No who will offer more good info!


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

ok how about (and i am being dead serious here) you provide some sources for the claims that "gilling fish" between the gill plate and the gills WILL lead to death, "lipping" fish will also cause possible death, and that netting or wiping the slime off of them will again cause potential death. again i am dead serious here and this is a completely legitimet question that i truly would like to see an answer to. now here is your chance to make this site as good (not my feelings) as TSS.


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

I never wanted thing to get out of hand over this like i said i am new to steelhead fishing and have learned from my mistakes. I let go most of the fish i get only keeping the ones i need for eggs being that is what i like to use for bait. 

I'm really not to sure what the best way to release them are with out any harm being that i like to take pics of them first. I would like to learn the best way to handel them without causing harm


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## One Legged Josh (Jan 27, 2008)

Try the rubber coated landing nets and leave them in the water as much as possible remove hook. Then cradle under the fish get your picture quick and put him/her back in the water. 
To revive them is also important. Move the fish back and forth in the water to move water through its gills and let it swim away on its own. 
Im no expert but his seems to work. 
Hope to see ya on the river!----------josh


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

The Game Is On said:


> I never wanted thing to get out of hand over this like i said i am new to steelhead fishing and have learned from my mistakes. I let go most of the fish i get only keeping the ones i need for eggs being that is what i like to use for bait.
> 
> I'm really not to sure what the best way to release them are with out any harm being that i like to take pics of them first. I would like to learn the best way to handel them without causing harm



if you can tail them then thats a nice option though i have not been blessed with that skill myself. if you are by a sandy bank just simply drag them up about halfway from the water or whatever it takes to keep them from flopping back in right away. remove the hook, cradle the fish and hold him underwater till he swims away. good to go and something tells me he won't be cursing you for stealing his slime either.....

btw, no prob with being new at the game and wanting to learn. one thing you must realize with steelhead fishing. there are a TON of "purists" out there. some are really good guys and some want nothing more than to critique ones every move. looks like you are off to a good start man keep at it, they can be a lot of fun!


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## reo (May 22, 2004)

From the State of Minnesota DNR:

Handling and Photographing a Fish
 Keep fish in the water as much as possible to minimize air exposure.
* Never place your fingers through gills or in the eyes.*
 Dont hold heavy fish by the jaw as this may damage the jaw and vertebrae.
 Hold large fish horizontally and support its body to avoid damage to the internal organs.
 Use wet hands or wet cloth gloves to handle the fish.
 Have camera ready prior to landing fish to minimize air exposure.
 If possible, photograph the fish while in water.
Unhooking a Fish
 Have longnose pliers available to back the hook out.
 Remove the hook quickly, keeping the fish underwater.
 If the fish is deeply hooked, cut the line and release the fish as quickly as possible.
 Avoid using stainless steel hooks as they take longer to corrode if left in the fish.

From the Sate of Utah DNR:

Use nets whenever possible to AVOID UNNECESSARY CONTACT WITH
THE FISH, but never grasp the fish through the net. If you must handle the
fish, be sure to moisten hands beforehand. *Never *squeeze the body or eye sockets, *touch the gills*, or lay the fish on the ground.

A simple Google of "proper catch and release of trout" will turn up thousands of sites. I did not see any that advocated placing fingers in gills or gill plates but I only looked at about six.

Hoped this helped.


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## CoolWater (Apr 11, 2004)

This taken from a web page for the Fisheries Service of the Maryland DNR, one of the first catch & release search results returned...

"...Instead they should be used to control the head of fish and not as a lifting device. Lifting fish by the popular hand lip grip so often seen can cause damage to the jaw muscles and joints of any fish. Never hold fish up by putting your hand in the gills if they are going to be released. If posing for a picture of your catch try to cradle the fish with two hands to support the fish better. Fish grow and live in a relatively weightless environment supported by the surrounding water. They are not used to the strains associated with being out of the water. Have the camera handy and make sure the photographer..."

I could go to countless other sites that have catch & release tips that would echo the same sentiment.

I want to point out that just because I agree you shouldn't hold fish a certain way if you want a better chance for a healthy release DOES NOT mean I support the way some people have chosen to voice their opinions on this topic. I'm not sure what's in the air or water but it seems these threads go hostile rather quickly and easily lately.


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

I have no actual facts but just use common sense. Would you want to be lifted by your head or by your shoulders with some support for your bottom half? AKA Dont lift by head or gills. Would you go to a dentist that does all his work with your head under water? AKA Keep fish in water. If you were drunk would you want somebody to push you out on I90 or a sidewalk on a side street? AKA Dont release a fish in fast water.

To add to what 1legjosh sais I dont agree with moving the fish back and forth to push water through thier gills. Instead, gently and slowly wag the tail
like in a swimming motion. When you move them back and forth you can disorient them more than you already have.

In conclusion treat them the way you would like to be treated.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

reo said:


> A simple Google of "proper catch and release of trout" will turn up thousands of sites.


please also note that these are NOT trout we are discussing but rather a much hardier lake run version of the rainbow trout able to with stand a much harsher environment. 

and while i did state i have never whitnessed a fish that had been lifted by the gill plate dieing i did also state that i don't use this method and wouldn't recommend it. it's the slime wiping off causeing these major problems and the whole lifting by the head claims as well that i find to be quite comical. until i see a study and the results i still think it's a joke. especially when i have seen countless steelhead jump straight into dams and rocks while migrating and come back to try another jump.

btw why is it ok to handle a bass by the jaw or head area and not a steelhead?


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

Wow you are a bunch of good dudes hopefully one day we can get toghether and catch some crome thank's all


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## corndawg (Oct 24, 2007)

Im by no means an expert but IMO I have to agree with meisterics on handling steelhead that will be released. Stay away from the gills, keep the fish in water as much as possible and use hemos to pull the hook out. If the hook is buried cut the line and if you do need to take the fish out of water support it by holding the tail and under the area right behind the head but in front of the belly. Steelhead will recover and last longer out of cold water then they will out of warm water and lastly please dont cull fish. As a side note yes they are, in a nut shell, a put and take fishery but unlike the put n take rainbows in area lakes, a properly released steelhead will return. Just because they're stocked is no reason to handel them any different when releasing than you would a Musky or any other sport fish. Just my .02 

An artical by Darcy Eagen. Click on Articals on the left side. look for "Anglers on the hook for safe trout release"

http://www.ohiosteelheaders.com/

Here is another good read although I don't agree with the stringer thing. Other than putting the stringer through the membrane below the jaw your still messing with the gills. 

http://www.steelheadguide.com/Catch_and_Release.htm


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## silverbullet (Apr 14, 2004)

I thinks its gonna be tough to find a "true" answer to the question. I think we will have excellent opinions on the subject though. I personally like to tail them and support the fish with the other hand. Now that only works when fishing with a friend. Hook removing is tough alone. If alone, a soft mesh knotless net or bringing the fish into shallow water is what I do. Is it right, probably not. I always revive the fish till its ready to go too.
Now the trout I catch most often are easy, get em close, wet the hand and grab em in one hand gently, remove hook and set free. Most are under 14 inches.

Duckdude....you gotta catch em to even worry about landing anyway man. J/K


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## Dave_E (Apr 6, 2004)

Personally, I try not to remove large fish from the water very often. I'll beach them on occasion, but I try to tail them, then remove the hook with hemostats or needle nose.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

silverbullet said:


> Duckdude....you gotta catch em to even worry about landing anyway man. J/K


look who the cat drug in from the dirty south!  good to see ya still around man! had some excellent success on one of our favorite rivers that used to be at our back doors. never saw a soul which made it that much better. you going to be in town anytime soon? duck season is over and i am ready to play with some steel once conditions make it a little more worth the drive.

we had some killer trips to the canadian side of LE last summer too. whole different lake over there!


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## Big Daddy (Apr 6, 2004)

Congrats guys! A CIVIL debate on proper methods of handling fish... 

I knew you had it in you! Helping to educate folks in common sense ways to release fish goes a lot farther here than personal attacks. 

Thanks to you all for raising the bar here in the Steelhead section. As President of OGF, it is absolutely refreshing!


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## jojopro (Oct 9, 2007)

I agree with Duckdude that these fish are much hardier than everyone gives them credit. Steelhead have this reputation as being such fragile fish so physically frail that they can easily be mortaly wounded by handling from anglers. I'd say quite the contrary. In my experience with these fish I'd say that physically these fish are as tough and resistant to injury as any other fresh water species. Their bodies were built to withstand all the punishment they endure as they make their spawning run where they must swim through water only inches deep at times scraping their bellies against the jagged riverbeds, and jump onto and over fords and other obstacles. I believe that these fish get the reputation of being so frail due to the fact that they often fight to the point of absolute exhaustion, which then puts their lives in jeopardy. 

When you catch a fish that fights to the point of exhaustion you must take extra time and care to properly revive the fish if it is to survive. I have heard that it is not good to move the fish back and forth in the water rapidly, as the water can hurt the fish's gills when the fish is un-naturally pulled backwards. When in flowing water it would probably be best to hold the fish still just above the tail with it's head facing into the current to allow oxygen to be passed over the fish's gills by the current. If over time the fish does not fully revive than you'll have to put it on a stringer. When stringing up a fish, never go through the gills but rather just poke through the membrane in the bottom of their mouths.

As for landing fish, I try to only half beach them then quickly move in behind the fish with my feet or will kneel down to keep the fish from flopping all the way back into the water. If I'm taking a photo I quicky position the fish and cradle it with both hands if I have to move it. If not taking a photo I try not to even touch the fish, just remove hook with hemostat and let the fish slip back into the water. This time of year the fish usually swim away quckly, but in warmer water they may need some reviving.


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## jojopro (Oct 9, 2007)

Duckdude82 said:


> btw why is it ok to handle a bass by the jaw or head area and not a steelhead?


Good point! I would think that if this is so harmful to steelhead than it couldn't be good for any other species of fish, yet that's how all the pros land and handle bass.


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## Fishaholic69 (Apr 6, 2007)

game its all good man noone knows it all right away. thats why this forum and others are here not to hate on people like some do but to point out what you do wrong so you do it right next time. I would be proud of what you got. I am skunked on steelies on a fly and admire the pic and wish I caught one as nice as yours. at least you let it go to be caught another day. don't listen to that guy he only posted 20 times. good luck and catch more fish. try to learn fly fishing if ya get a chance its a great sport! we are not elitest like some say. just ask me anything and I will help you or point you to the right place.


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

Fishaholic that guy you speak of whose name I will not mention did do a good thing. Believe it or not. He brought up a point that neaded to get addressed. He may not have actually given any info but he sparked up alot of others to. Basically this entire thread is because of him and there is some very good info in here for somebody who just started out and for those who just simpily dont know. So you really have to look at the big picture here and dont hate on the guy for being the way he is, honestly I think he did a good job plus I dont think I ever laughed as hard as I did reading some of his stuff. I am going to put him on my buddy list, hope he will do the same.


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## One Legged Josh (Jan 27, 2008)

Gsteel im with you. He had a weird way of getting us talking but the end result was the same. Its good to see everyone helping out "Game". OGF can be a very helpful resource to us all.
Im no expert on steel and I learn something every time Im on the site.


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## MEISTERICS (May 15, 2006)

Its important that as the fish slime not be removed because its a protective coating that the fish produces to fight bacteria and disease. Kind of like our skin. Slime and skin are apart of there immune protective system. If we did not have it we would get sick and have many more infections. Have you ever seen a fish that has creamy white on certain parts of its body? It likely that is slime coating in that area was removed causing the infection. I caught one on the rock late march last year 25% of its body was covered around the tail. Right in the area where a human would likely hold it. also, the warmer water the higherthe content of bacteria. Which makes it more likely for the fish to be infected. Finally, after the slime is removed the fish just does not make more in minutes or days.

As for catching fish in april into may(warm water 65+). I distinctly rememeber on the rocky under a popular brige counting at least 20 dead fish scattered within a 300yd area. The rest of the river was close to the same. I cant contribute that to natural death do to spawn. What likely happened is that the fish was caught and tired beyond recouping. In warmer temps the oxygen level in water greatly decreases. and trout require larger amounts of oxygen then most other fish. hence it being a cold water fish.

Which brings up another point,fishing redds(typically a warm water period). People who fish redds(spawning bedds) are more likely to snag a fish. If it was intentional has no baring on this topic. Popular places for them to be snagged are in the dorsal fin or tail. If you have ever snagged them there you would know that it takes at least 2 times as long to bring them in. Hence stressing them out. It takes so much longer to reel them in because you have no control over the fishes head. Its more like the fish controls you.

Bottom line, if you are going to release it you may as well take the extra 20 seconds to release it properly. In fact when using forcepts, i almost think its quicker then banking wrestling the fish then reviving. and you never hardly have to touch the fish. if the fish is not that tired you can just unhook it and let it go. Why waste any life for no reason? 

Last weekend in NY i was standing next to someone who told his boy you have to tire him completly out to bring him in. It was a brown trout and was only around 5-7lbs. It took him at least 20 min to decide whether or not the fish was ready to bring in. I wrestled a fresh 8-10lb brown in 5 min with a pin and no drag. He was using spinning gear. Totally unecessary to take 20min.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

MEISTERICS said:


> Last weekend in NY i was standing next to someone who told his boy you have to tire him completly out to bring him in. It was a brown trout and was only around 5-7lbs. It took him at least 20 min to decide whether or not the fish was ready to bring in. I wrestled a fresh 8-10lb brown in 5 min with a pin and no drag. He was using spinning gear. Totally unecessary to take 20min.


and that paragraph describes the "purist" that wants to critique ones every move. again LOTS of good examples here. i can assure you that if you walked up to me and tried to tell me how to fight a fish you would not be happy with my response.


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## BFG (Mar 29, 2006)

From reading a few of these posts, it would seem that many of you would rather not touch the fish at all. In my little chaotic world, doing so would greatly increase the odds of the fish getting hurt...or swimming away with an octopus hook in its mouth trailing 4' of leader. 

It's tough enough to catch the darn things, let alone have to worry about un-hooking them like they are made out of crystal. 

I'd prefer to tail 'em...but that doesn't always work. I've listened to guys say you should wet your hands before doing so, but this ends up being counterproductive in that you now have created a slippery surface from which you will attempt to grasp and even more slippery surface. 

I've caught a few of these bullets...and I did find a pic of one from a couple years back...and judging from the pic, I held this fish inappropriated based on what has been posted here. Fish swam away just fine..


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

That "purist" is 100% correct. There is no reason to fight a fish for that long of a time. Should the people who know how to fight a fish start a thread teaching on the do's and don'ts of that matter? Where is betterthan....... when we nead him? I am sure he could add some of his knowledge.


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## Steel Cranium (Aug 22, 2005)

corndawg said:


> Here is another good read although I don't agree with the stringer thing. Other than putting the stringer through the membrane below the jaw your still messing with the gills.


That's interesting -- I have always carried a stringer just for that purpose. I was taught by an old timer a long time ago that a fish that doesn't really want to cooperate for a clean release can be put on a stringer - thru the lower lip membrane - and tied to an overhanging tree limb over slow but moving water for a little while. In most cases, the fish recuperates to the point where I could unclip the stringer for a good release. The ones that didn't cooperate were bled and with me on the trip home. Seems like a better way to determine if a questionable fish will have a chance of making it after a release. Only thru the lip, never thru the gills.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

gsteel said:


> That "purist" is 100&#37; correct. There is no reason to fight a fish for that long of a time. Should the people who know how to fight a fish start a thread teaching on the do's and don'ts of that matter? Where is betterthan....... when we nead him? I am sure he could add some of his knowledge.



you fight the fish until YOU can land it PERIOD! whether it is 5 mins or 30. people fish for them to have FUN whether it comes from cranking down on the fish and dragging him ashore as fast as possible or fighting the fish a little longer. if that's what gives that particular fishermen the joy which he sought when he strapped his waders on that morning than mission accomplished! fact is not everyone can get out and fish steelhead every day, week, or even more than a couple time a season. these fish were planted so that fishermen could have fun. that fishermens goal was not to go down to the river and impress you in any way, shape, or form. it was to have a chance at hooking into some great fighting fish and have a good time. 

to those of you that have mentioned being new to the game don't worry about impressing anyone else down there but yourself!


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## Steel Cranium (Aug 22, 2005)

BFG said:


> From reading a few of these posts, it would seem that many of you would rather not touch the fish at all.


True. These fish are tougher than most realize. They run long distances thru shallow parts of the river, put up with the ice that breaks up and heads downstream in the winter/spring, put up with very high and fast water conditions, then the spawning process followed by a movement to the big lake in temperatures often above what they can tolerate.

I try to be somewhere in the middle. Smaller fish will have a short fight and usually a release while still in the water with hemostats. Bigger ones may get a snapshot (> 30"). If all fish had the hands free release (hemostats in the water), it sort of takes the some of the interest out of the whole process since its simply hook, fight, release (repeat). Some fish are just pretty and/or big enough for some special handling. 

Those that do get the handling will get a wet hand around the tail, another under the upper belly for support, snapshot, release. I only use a net where it is difficult to do a hands-free or minimal touch release. I try to stay away from the gills (unless keeping the fish, where it will be slit for bleeding) or holding it other than horizontal (no "bass-lip" grabs).

The only time that I avoid them is on the beds (they have other things on their minds - enough fish in the deeper water below the spawning pairs) and in the late spring, when a prolonged fight will probably kill a fish. The only exception would be if I were keeping one, but wouldn't with walleye available from the lakeshore during the spring.


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## Dave_E (Apr 6, 2004)

Steel Cranium said:


> I try to be somewhere in the middle. Smaller fish will have a short fight and usually a release while still in the water with hemostats. Bigger ones may get a snapshot (> 30"). ....If all fish had the hands free release (hemostats in the water), it sort of takes the some of the interest out of the whole process since its simply hook, fight, release (repeat). Some fish are just pretty and/or big enough for some special handling."


BINGO!!!

Hey Cranium, let's get together again soon and walk the Rocky. I've never steelheaded in the spring (due to reasons you mentioned), but want to try for some that aren't getting "freaky on the gravel".


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## jojopro (Oct 9, 2007)

Steel Cranium said:


> That's interesting -- I have always carried a stringer just for that purpose. I was taught by an old timer a long time ago that a fish that doesn't really want to cooperate for a clean release can be put on a stringer - thru the lower lip membrane - and tied to an overhanging tree limb over slow but moving water for a little while. In most cases, the fish recuperates to the point where I could unclip the stringer for a good release. The ones that didn't cooperate were bled and with me on the trip home. Seems like a better way to determine if a questionable fish will have a chance of making it after a release. Only thru the lip, never thru the gills.


Absolutely. Early this season I hooked into a big female that fought like hell and just wouldn't quit. When I was finally able to land her she was absolutely spent. I spent about 10 minutes trying to revive her with no luck. I already had plenty of eggs, and had no desire to eat this big steelie, but I reluctantly put her on the stringer (certainly not going to chuck a seemingly dead fish back into the water). Much to my surprise, about 30 minutes later I hear that fish splashing and trying to escape from my stringer. She had come to in her own time, and I happily unhooked her from my stringer and she bolted off back to deeper water, seemingly no worse for wear.


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## creekcrawler (Oct 5, 2004)

Even though the fish swims away, that doesn't mean he wasn't hurt.
A lot of fish mortality occurs after they're released.

That being said, I guess it's wrong to dry hump a real big pretty steelhead when you catch it??


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

I strongly disagree with Duckdude. If it takes you more than 10 minutes to get an average steelhead in you are not fighting the fish properly at all. There are exceptions if you get into a huge horse though, but still thats a long time. I would truely like to watch the guy above you or across from you fight a fish for a half hour. While you just stand thier and watch not being able to fish because the hole is tide up. If you say something to him I hope he replies to you the same way that you said you would if somebody talked to you about fighting a fish. Yes the fish were planted for us as fishermen to have fun. We as fishermen must respect the fishery, the property, and the other fisherman.


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## corndawg (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:
Originally Posted by corndawg 
Here is another good read although I don't agree with the stringer thing. Other than putting the stringer through the membrane below the jaw your still messing with the gills. 




Steel Cranium said:


> That's interesting -- I have always carried a stringer just for that purpose. I was taught by an old timer a long time ago that a fish that doesn't really want to cooperate for a clean release can be put on a stringer - thru the lower lip membrane - and tied to an overhanging tree limb over slow but moving water for a little while. In most cases, the fish recuperates to the point where I could unclip the stringer for a good release. The ones that didn't cooperate were bled and with me on the trip home. Seems like a better way to determine if a questionable fish will have a chance of making it after a release. Only thru the lip, never thru the gills.


My point being is that this artical never mentions how to hook a fish with a stringer. Most people don't know about putting the stringer through the jaw membrane and it ends up through the gills, therefore defeating the purpose. I agree with you, Better to string it through the jaw and give it a chance to revive than to let it float down river belly up. On the other side of the coin this is also done to cull fish. I guess it all depends on where the fishermans values are; try to revive a fish for anothers day battle like you said or hook it up till he catches a bigger fish. Hopefully its the former.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

creekcrawler said:


> Even though the fish swims away, that doesn't mean he wasn't hurt.
> A lot of fish mortality occurs after they're released.
> 
> That being said, I guess it's wrong to dry hump a real big pretty steelhead when you catch it??


i agree, which is why i am currently working on a survey for each steelhead i land to fill out before he swims away in order to track any wounds or possible bleeding i may have cause him/her.  

as for the second line, i've landed some awefully pretty females in my day but never one that made me THAT proud! lol


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## MEISTERICS (May 15, 2006)

Duckdude. I wonder what you think a big female is? A 8+ brown vs. a 5-7 pound fish is a BIG difference in fight. twenty min for a 5-7 pound fish is insane. I offer good info and so do others and you bash. Your comments are no better then the anti joe walleye. I was merely giving an example of what is unecessary. AND IT IS. 

i tell you what. we get in a friendly boxing match. I tire you out to the point in which you cant get up or move. Then i will beat your head against some rocks till you bleed and swell. Then i will put a 3/0 hook in your mouth and tear it out. and it will be all ok b/c it was all in the name of a good time. and to top it off we can put a stringer thru your neck.

If you did not catch on that was a shot at humor!

Lighten up. and keep an open mind. 

Ang yet again. Why kill for no good reason.


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

Why is it insane to fight a fish for 10 15 minutes. I have fought a few for that long i also use very light line so you can't house them in i don't see a problem with that


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## TRIPLE-J (Sep 18, 2006)

wow, everybody has posted some really good points here. The bottom line is this, fishing is a recreational activity if someone takes 20 minutes to land a bluegill thats their right to be able to do that. I might not agree with that but they do have that right. As for handling steelhead you should not put your fingers in their gills just for the fact that their trashing around with your fingers in there COULD mortally wound the fish. Does this happen everytime, no, but if you do PLAN on releasing the fish you should TRY to do everything you can to make sure it is released as healthy as possible. And yes I have personally witnessed steelhead die after being handled in this manner. Yes these are stocked fish, but does that mean we should just kill them regardless when we catch them, even if we aren't going to keep them, No we shouldn't.

Some people critisize me when I fish for them because I primarily spoon fish for them. I've had people tell me that I'm fishing all wrong and I should be drifting spawn or jig-n-maggot or whatever because they're catching more fish that way. (sometimes) Or because thats what everybody else is doing. But that is the way that """ I """ prefer to fish for them, just because they don't doesn't make me wrong. I just love to feel them slam my spoon instead of watching a strike indicator. ( politically correct for a bobber nowadays ) But I've been fishing for them since the 70's and that's what I enjoy. Aren't we all out ther for our own enjoyment.
Triple-J


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

Game there is no nead to fight a fish that long. Put pressure on them and keep pressure on them. If the fish isnt moving it is resting. I watch many people just stand with the rod in the air as the fish is just sitting in the current. He is tiring you out and thats not the way it should work. It doesnt matter if you use light tackle or not it doesnt take 15 minutes to land a 10 pounder if it is chrome and the water is 50 degrees. The more you fish the more you will understand. You just know what the fish is going to do next. There are times you do nothing, when its just running. They only can run for so long. As soon as it slows put the hammer down. You can feel when its going to go again get ready. Let it go. Slows down drop the hammer again. Bring it in. May have afew more runs especially the one when you get it close. I dont know what kind of rod you are using but I am sure it is a noodle of some brand. Use the rod. Bend it untill you feel it your hands. Thats what its about. Sure at first you may break some off but at least you will learn about how much and when to apply pressure. It is more rewarding to bring a fish in in minutes than it is to just stand there and milk it. I saw your pic and know where you fish, I hit the same access point once in awhile if I see you I'll talk to you more indepth and get into rod angles. So when a pompass flyguy comes up to you dont be shocked.


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

gsteel cool man i am always willing to learn new things i think my problem is i really don't want to lose the fish so i let it do its thing and don't try and force it in. I use a courtland noodle rod with 6 pound line do you think that is to small of line for someone just learning. I was down at one of my hole and hoked a hog and just could not stop it. It was like a tank in the water and it broke me off do you think i sould up my line a little higher.


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

8-12 pound mono depending on what style. I would go with 12 Siglon. Also use a florocarbon leader Use 6 or 8 depending on clarity, 8 pound mono for when the color is really off. Stick with me and I'll have you looking like my other newbie I took under my wing


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

Cool man thanks


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## Gino~lover (Feb 26, 2008)

listen to gsteel he knows so much!!! hes been showing me quite alot on the rivers,but be warned he charges alot, and he makes you carry his rod and bucket, oh well thats earing stripes I guess.


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## gsteel (Feb 16, 2008)

Game I understand that you dont want to lose fish. When I first started I was the same way. Once you do this longer you will understand that losing fish is really no big deal. After yo put some time the hook up and land ratio will increase. Last year I lost a very big fish. Biggest I ever seen personally, easy 14 pounder plus. The reason I lost it was that I was fighting the fish not to lose it, instead of fighting it to land it. I still think about her because she taught me a huge lesson. I could go on and on about how to fish but it is really something that you have experience for yourself. Reading books and internet pages about fishing techniques will get you started but the real way to learn it is actually doing it. Keep getting out there.


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## Steel Cranium (Aug 22, 2005)

The Game Is On said:


> Why is it insane to fight a fish for 10 15 minutes. I have fought a few for that long i also use very light line so you can't house them in i don't see a problem with that


Unlike 20 years ago, we don't have a requirement for using light lines anymore. Back then, you went to a lighter line as the water became clearer. At that time, going down to 4lb test was what you did to catch fish in the clear water. Along with that, whippy "bike rods" (named after the long fiberglass rods that held flags attached to the back of a bicycle) were needed to protected the light line (also called noodle rods).

Now, we have technologies to make smaller diameter lines stronger (braid and cofiliments, as an example) which lets you use a heavier line, faster rod to help get fish landed faster. The biggest invention was fluorocarbon, which can easily let you fish with an 8 or 10 lb line = main line connected to fluro leader of similar strength, with the invisibility better than the old 4lb test or lower lines. The limiting factor for lines is now what your rod can handle and how well it casts.

Next time you change your lines, think about getting a heavier main line. I use 6 or 8, depending on the rod. When the water is off-color (muddier), you can fish with a main line only. As the water clears, attach a fluorocarbon leader to the end of your main line. This can be cut from a spool of fluorocarbon (Seaguar makes a good one) that is made for spinning - the more expensive leader material for fly rods is not necessary. Stay away from Vanish, which doesn't usually work as well as the others. Your leader can be between 6' to 8', longer when the water is clearer.


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

look into siglon F for your main line. it's a little expensive but you get a lot. don't mind the bright pink or orange colors because you will be using a leader off the end of it. siglon is nice because it actually has "pore" so to speak inside of it which make it more boyant than standard mono. this is REALLY nice when running floats off of a standard noodle rod and spinning reel because it keeps your line from sinking and causing drag on your float. just use a surgeons knot (can be found online) to attach a 6 or 8lb leader to it. i like to use seaguar as well. expensive floats are really not necessary. my go to float is a weighted thill black and orange float with surgical tubing instead of a spring. sure drennans are nice but when you lose a $2.50 float it tends to hurt a lot more than losing a $1.00 float.


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## The Game Is On (Jan 24, 2008)

Ok this mite be a stupid question but i will ask anyways. Somethimes i fish 4 feet down sometimes all the way up to 6 feet down depending on the hole i'm fishing how would i set up a leader to be able to ajust how deep i'm fishing or do i just put on like 4 feet of leader with the bobber ubove the leader and ajust from there.


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## Steel Cranium (Aug 22, 2005)

Duckdude82 said:


> look into siglon F for your main line.


When buying the lines from Japan (like siglon), you will have to use a heavier rating than what you would expect for mono because they grade the breaking strength differently. Most guys that I know who use the floating lines (like siglon) use 10 or 12 lb test. 6lb siglon is probably too light for steelies.

I determine the length of the fluoro leader based on the clarity of the water, not the depth that I'm fishing. The clearer the water, the longer the leader.


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## Mepps3 (Apr 23, 2006)

The Game Is On said:


> Ok this mite be a stupid question but i will ask anyways. Somethimes i fish 4 feet down sometimes all the way up to 6 feet down depending on the hole i'm fishing how would i set up a leader to be able to ajust how deep i'm fishing or do i just put on like 4 feet of leader with the bobber ubove the leader and ajust from there.


This should help you  

http://www.anglersinternational.com/Shotting Patterns.pdf


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## MuskieJim (Apr 11, 2007)

Mepps, thanks for that great diagram on split-shotting. I enjoy your weekly reports! I can always learn something new!


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## jojopro (Oct 9, 2007)

The Game Is On said:


> Ok this mite be a stupid question but i will ask anyways. Somethimes i fish 4 feet down sometimes all the way up to 6 feet down depending on the hole i'm fishing how would i set up a leader to be able to ajust how deep i'm fishing or *do i just put on like 4 feet of leader with the bobber ubove the leader and ajust from there*.


Yes that would be fine. I would suggest always having your float above your leader to mainline connection point so that if you break off there you don't lose your float. As others have mentioned already, I would say that pure fluorocarbon leader material is a must! I would suggest using only the fluorocarbon designated as leader material (the smaller 30 yard spools) since this is designed to be much more abrasive resistant. Another tip would be to use a tiny microswivel to connect your leader to mainline rather than knotting line to line. The swivel will help to reduce line twist in your mainline that your bait may cause. 

John


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

Steel Cranium said:


> When buying the lines from Japan (like siglon), you will have to use a heavier rating than what you would expect for mono because they grade the breaking strength differently. Most guys that I know who use the floating lines (like siglon) use 10 or 12 lb test. 6lb siglon is probably too light for steelies.
> QUOTE]
> 
> what he said, i forgot to put that part in. i go with the 12lb since its just a main line


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## Mepps3 (Apr 23, 2006)

Duckdude82 said:


> what he said, i forget to put that part in. i go with the 12lb since its just a main line



I use 15lb siglon and think it casts smoother then 12lb with a center pin. I can cast across Rocky with it  .


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## Duckdude82 (Feb 26, 2007)

back to the gentle handling of a fish when you catch it. i guess you're right, i mean look how gently the DNR stocks them. huh, and to think they live......go figure


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