# Lund transom replacement



## lil goose

I recently purchased a 2004 1990 pro v le and I am going to have to replace the transom. I was wondering if anyone out there has tackled one. I have researched it some and it doesn't look too awful bad but I got a quote for $1600.00 so I am just trying to decide whether to just get it done or do it myself. Any thoughts would be appreciated!! Thank you!!


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## bountyhunter

just watched some U TUBE flim on how to repair a transom. if your handy and got time it,s possible. on mine it looks like you can pull the aluminim cap and dig it out. try and save everything, to make a template .


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## PapawSmith

A Lund that size has at least a 150 hanging off of it, right? I've been a carpenter my whole life and pretty good at tackling uncommon projects like this but for $1600 I would feel a whole lot better having a professional boat repair guy replace transom than doing it myself for a third of that and all the time involved. If it were holding a bunch less HP and torque I might feel different but with all those ponies hanging off the back I'd leave it to the pros, and warranties are kind of nice too. Just my opinion.


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## ski

I would look into it a little more before I do it yourself. Lunds were notorious for having transom and floor issues for several years. I believe it was from late 90's to mid 2000's. You may be available for some warranty work. If you are on Facebook, join the "Lund boat owners" group and post your problem there. There has been a lot of discussion in the past about transoms and floors rotting and needing replaced. 
I have a 1999 Lund Fisherman and it looks like the previous owner replaced some of the floor and I have another weak spot that needs replaced. 

ski


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## My Demeyes

I replaced one on my old 18' starcraft for less than $300. it was actually pretty easy on that boat, and I epoxy coated the new transom. If the lund has a transom cap on it, I would think its a doable home project.


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## Popspastime

You might run into a bunch of fasteners all protruding into the transom area from other braces and gussets, for the $ id let the pro's do it.. My Lund has a lifetime on it for me.


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## baitguy

I made my own for a 17' Sea Nymph, but only 55HP ... there were a few bolts and such in the area, maybe a couple dozen holes, but nothing that bad if you're reasonably handy and have some decent tools ...You could probably get a lam beam for $100-150 that would be plenty strong, they hold up houses, that's probably basically all the factory stuff is ... pro's doing it would be nice but I'm thinking there will be some other expenses above and beyond ...


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## lil goose

I have a 200 optimax and a Mercury 15 hp kicker on it. It is not nearly as much as a money issue but the fact that the "pros" obviously did a shitty job to begin with and if I do it there will be no short cuts taken!! On the other hand it is something I have never done so it is a bit intimidating! LOL


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## lil goose

From all the research I have done unless you are the original owner Lund will not help you out . Plus then I believe the transom warranty was only good for 10 yrs. Does the pros give you a warranty? I am not sure!


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## Gottagofishn

When I had issues with the transom on my Lund they offered to buy the wood for me.... I cried and moaned but that's all they would do. They did go to a lifetime warranty around 2010 or so and changed the way the transom's were built and the materials they used, but as stated above, they will only honor it if you are the original owner.
I have seen prices from 1500 to 3000 for the transom repair. There's ton's of info to be found online in regards to doing it yourself, if your so inclined.


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## bountyhunter

wow never new lund had a transom problem my 1993 pro V seems to still be solid.


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## Nate167

Pm sent


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## Popspastime

bountyhunter said:


> wow never new lund had a transom problem my 1993 pro V seems to still be solid.


It all depends on how its taken care of, keep it dry and you should never have a problem.


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## Reel Magic

lil goose said:


> I have a 200 optimax and a Mercury 15 hp kicker on it. It is not nearly as much as a money issue but the fact that the "pros" obviously did a shitty job to begin with and if I do it there will be no short cuts taken!! On the other hand it is something I have never done so it is a bit intimidating! LOL


Id do it myself, if you have the time. I used good wood and west systems, better than new


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## lil goose

From like 1998 - 2006 a bad problem!!


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## lil goose

I would like to thank everyone for their help on this!! As soon as I decide which way I am going to go I let everyone know!! Thanks again, Goose


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## Gottagofishn

Popspastime said:


> It all depends on how its taken care of, keep it dry and you should never have a problem.


I had a 1997 Lund that was babied, wiped down after every use, garaged and it rotted nonetheless.... Honestly, I don't believe it could have been taken care of any better unless it was never used.


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## PapawSmith

the fact that the "pros" obviously did a shitty job to begin with and if I do it there will be no short cuts taken!! LOL[/QUOTE said:


> LOL I get you, but the working guys really know what they are doing, they are just stuck with building these things new per the design and materials the engineers and designers supplied them with. My point is simply that these guys do this stuff day in and day out and are better suited with both experience and equipment. Just like auto repair, I can put a new clutch in my daughters Jeep, but I dropped it off at the repair shop today instead. Not worth my time for one, and not worth me overlooking one simple step that the guy that does it daily would never miss. I put a new front end on my truck motor in 1979 and five cents worth of Lock-Tite I didn't know I needed on one bolt cost me $1500 and a night stranded in the desert.
> 
> I have no idea your situation, but if I was a much younger man with the extra time on my hands, given the trade I work in I'm sure I would attempt the replacement myself. I'm just older, busier, and wiser now and my opinions are formulated accordingly.


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## lil goose

I do appreciate your advise. I have a decent facility to do this job in plus there are a few other upgrades I am going to do once I get it apart. I am going to replace all the bilge pumps livewell lines. I plan to sand and repaint the transom when completed. So I apologise if I sounded like a smarty pants but I plan on keeping this boat for a long time and I am very ocd about doing things right it will drive me crazy worring if they used the right sealant if they sealed the weep holes properly ect. So for my own peace of mind I should probably tackle this myself. Again sorry if come off like a smart arse.


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## PapawSmith

No apologies necessary, you did not come across as a smartass at all. This is your thread and I did not want you to think I was overly attempting to discourage you from doing this work, just letting you know why I'm more hesitant these days. Good luck and enjoy the rebuild.


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## capt j-rod

We did a 20' Alaskan. It was pretty easy. Like others said we used penetrating epoxy and west systems. Better than new. I was pissed at Lund for the cheap ass wood they used! And even more pissed at one of our site sponsor dealerships for not standing behind it after it was purchased. Apparently their 1000 point super inspection doesn't look at transom!!!


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## s.a.m

I just built an all aluminum transom to replace the wood in my StarCraft. have a 120 hanging on it works great! Just another option to think about.


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## ICENUT

I have a 2007 Lund Pro Sport had a 400lb 90 hp merc and a 9.9 on back for 10 years now stored outside boat used often and no transom saver no problem at all transom is still solid so are the floors. Its also been trailered from port Clinton to olcott ny and erie and pyma often Again no issues at all with transom.


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## Lundy

I just had the transom and floor replaced in my 2004 2025 ProV this spring. Much bigger job than I wanted to take on.


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## lil goose

ICENUT said:


> I have a 2007 Lund Pro Sport had a 400lb 90 hp merc and a 9.9 on back for 10 years now stored outside boat used often and no transom saver no problem at all transom is still solid so are the floors. Its also been trailered from port Clinton to olcott ny and erie and pyma often Again no issues at all with transom.


The problem years was from 1999-2006 from what I have been reading apparently they realized that there was a problem and corrected it. If you Google Lund transom there are tons of bad transoms almost all fall in the 1999-2006 slot. I am glad they figured it out because I love everything about my Lund just wish I had done this research before I purchased one in the bad years. Oh well soon it will be good to go!


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## steelneyes2

I have done 3 of them on Lunds and several others on other brands. Lund transoms tended to fail because they had a poor seal on the trim cap and encapsulated the bottom of the wood in flotation foam. It was a problem from the early 90's until Genmar sold Lund to Brunswick and they redesigned the way in which the transom, transom cap, and floatation foam went together. $1600 is actually a pretty good quote given the amount of work involved. However it is critical to resin the wood, remove any foam that is in contact with the transom wood in order to give any water a channel to drain to the bilge and reseal with a flexible sealant all of the trim caps, and hardware. Send me a pm with a phone number, I have sources for all of the materials. Material cost for a 1995 17 ft. fisherman was around $500 total including all new hardware, wood, resin etc. The complete job from motor unhanging to finished and on the water took right around 75 man hours.


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## My Demeyes

lil goose said:


> I do appreciate your advise. I have a decent facility to do this job in plus there are a few other upgrades I am going to do once I get it apart. I am going to replace all the bilge pumps livewell lines. I plan to sand and repaint the transom when completed. So I apologise if I sounded like a smarty pants but I plan on keeping this boat for a long time and I am very ocd about doing things right it will drive me crazy worring if they used the right sealant if they sealed the weep holes properly ect. So for my own peace of mind I should probably tackle this myself. Again sorry if come off like a smart arse.


The way I see it, NOBODY cares about my boats more than I do. That's why I do all of the work I can on them. I've seen some really nasty "professional" jobs, done by shop guys who don't care about the boat, just the paycheck.


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## lil goose

I would like to thank everyone for all the help and support I am going to do this myself with the help of a couple buddies. I will show pictures of project before during and after.


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## capt j-rod

If you are using any plywood I highly recommend a product called CPES carried by the rot doctor. I use it on every project and the results are excellent. It is a penetrating epoxy that you soak all wooden components prior to installing. It is worth every penny! It also saves you from buying "marine grade" plywood. Marine plywood is a generic term that gets abused often. A little more effort now will make your repairs last for decades
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html


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## Slatebar

Sincere question... I have a Lund that falls in those years,, How can I tell if the transom on my boat is bad ? .....What do I look for ?


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## Lundy

There are a couple of signs to look for. 

An easy first check is to trim the motor all the way up and then grab it near the siege and Physically move the motor up and down. Watch in the area where the motor is mounted at the top of the transom. If the transom moves back and forth you have a problem. The amount of movement can provide at least a rough estimation of how big of a problem you have. There should be no movement


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## Lundy

Skeg, not the siege, auto correct is not my friend


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## PapawSmith

lil goose said:


> I would like to thank everyone for all the help and support I am going to do this myself with the help of a couple buddies. I will show pictures of project before during and after.


Should be an enjoyable project and it sounds like steelneyes2 can offer you some valuable insight which I would sure take advantage of. Looking forward to the pictorial of the rebuild.

This is one of the most productive threads I've read in a long while and is clearly getting the attention of fellow Lund owners.


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## K gonefishin

Lundy said:


> I just had the transom and floor replaced in my 2004 2025 ProV this spring. Much bigger job than I wanted to take on.


Bet that set you back a couple hundred bucks LOL. Sorry to hear man! Sucks.


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## lil goose

On mine some of transom screws were backed out a little along with the screws on the transom top cap. When I tried to tighten them they wouldn't so I am sure the wood is getting soft. Watch around your weep in the transom the paint is bubbling and chipped off a little . When I wiggle the motor I see no flex but from talking to Haines marina it's just a matter of time so I want to replace it while hopefully the old comes out in one piece.


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## Lundy

K gonefishin said:


> Bet that set you back a couple hundred bucks LOL. Sorry to hear man! Sucks.


It was painful for sure! It wasn't in terrible shape but needed to be done before it continued to progress. I knew that I will probably be selling the boat fairly soon and I couldn't pass that problem on to someone else. It would have been really easy to sell without it being noticed, like I said it wasn't all that bad, but I wouldn't want anyone to do that to me so I made it better than new.


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## steelneyes2

The transom test as Lundy described above is a traditional one, but will only show a really bad issue. My 1995 Tyee never had any appearance of a problem. I had even just repowered from a 115 to a 200 and while changing out the motors there was no flexing or evidence of any problem. 2 months later after running in some moderate 2-3's, admittedly rather hard, I pulled into the ramp and my bilge pump turned on. When I got on the trailer, the motor had pushed in at the bottom and pulled away at the top hard enough to tear the aluminum. I suspect that many of the Lunds from the Genmar era have bad transom wood. Many of them also run for years with no failure as well due to a very solid hull design and heavy gauge aluminum they used in constructing them. 
Stripped out trim cap screws, bubbling in the paint around any of the transom bolts and tannin colored stains in the bilge area where the wood meets the foam are all evidence of what most likely a rotting transom.


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## bountyhunter

ok now you guys got me worried, mines a 1993 pro V 1775 ,I,m going out and give it the wiggle test then open the port hole and look around. I,ve never had water in there ,every time I pull the plug its dry.


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## lil goose

bountyhunter said:


> ok now you guys got me worried, mines a 1993 pro V 1775 ,I,m going out and give it the wiggle test then open the port hole and look around. I,ve never had water in there ,every time I pull the plug its dry.


I believe your boat falls in before they messed them up!! I get water in my every time I go not enough to sink but enough to be annoying!! Bilge pump takes care of it every couple of hours!! LOL


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## Gottagofishn

I spotted the bubbling paint first. It became apparent there was an issue after I started poking around with a screwdriver.


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## I Fish

I recommend this to everyone that ever decides to replace a transom's wood. Do what the manufacturers are doing, and replace it with a composite like Coosa Bluewater 26. You'd think I get paid by them as much as I recommend it, lol. Yes, wood has worked for all these years, but, there is a reason you are replacing it. Seriously, it's a little pricey, but, it's cut to size and install, waterproof, has like a 50year warranty, stronger, lighter, no drying time, and no chemicals, as well as cut and drill with common wood tools. If a screw leaks, so what! If a splashwell drain tube cracks, so what! The peace of mind that comes from never worrying about a transom's wood again is worth infinitely more than the couple hundred extra dollars.

With 2 guys and fairly basic tools you could easily get this done in a weekend or a few evenings.


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## Popspastime

I Fish said:


> I recommend this to everyone that ever decides to replace a transom's wood. Do what the manufacturers are doing, and replace it with a composite like Coosa Bluewater 26. You'd think I get paid by them as much as I recommend it, lol. Yes, wood has worked for all these years, but, there is a reason you are replacing it. Seriously, it's a little pricey, but, it's cut to size and install, waterproof, has like a 50year warranty, stronger, lighter, no drying time, and no chemicals, as well as cut and drill with common wood tools. If a screw leaks, so what! If a splashwell drain tube cracks, so what! The peace of mind that comes from never worrying about a transom's wood again is worth infinitely more than the couple hundred extra dollars.
> 
> With 2 guys and fairly basic tools you could easily get this done in a weekend or a few evenings.


With composite materials like this out there why would anyone want to install any kind of lumber on or in their boat.


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## I Fish

Popspastime said:


> With composite materials like this out there why would anyone want to install any kind of lumber on or in their boat.


I do not know. I already had all the materials to rebuild my Sylvan, but, decided to go with the Coosa for the transom. In hindsight, I wish I had returned all the plywood and done everything with it. If/when my decks or floors ever go bad again, it will get replaced by a composite without a second thought. If you are doing the work yourself and plan on keeping the boat, IMO, it's the only way to go.


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## lil goose

Where can I get it? Does it have the same properties as wood? Will it flex some if hit your motor on something? Not yo be a skeptic but you are absolutely right if it is that good why aren't the manufacturers going to it? I did read a little about coosa wood and seacast but there isn't a whole lot of information on it. I am all for spending the money if it the right material! Any more insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks


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## My Demeyes

boatoutfitters.com has it. At $600 a sheet, plus shipping, I can live with a wood and epoxy transom. The stuff looks nice, has a 50 year warranty ,but your boat and motor probably are not gonna make it 50 years though.


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## Popspastime

If you purchase it from a boat dealer you'll pay thru the nose for it. Look around, there are other material supply company's. You can even buy re-cycled material as well, you just need to look a bit.


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## steelneyes2

I looked extensively into the composites and continually research them any time an alternative is suggested. My opinion is that if you seal and encapsulate the transom on an aluminum boat (epoxy, etc) you have overcome the the biggest problem. The factory Lunds had no sealing on the wood. Coupled with the foam problem not allowing drainage, that causes the failure in every case I've seen. I'm at 10 years on my replacement and have zero signs of any rot. If you can get 10+ years out of a replacement coupled with the ever declining value of the boat, I think it's hard to justify the increased cost of the composites. 

The Lund I posted photos of above, after a complete transom job is still probably only worth about $7k or so. Adding $1200 to the cost of the replacement would add nothing to its overall value, and a 22 year old boat will have other failures long before the marine ply transom ever fails again. 

If you were building a boat or purchase one with the intention and knowledge that you were going to replace the transom it may be a different equation. 

Many of the higher line boats now do use composites in all of their construction. They also pass that cost on to the consumer as well. For those of us running older boats the composites are worth looking into. But marine plywood with proper protection, exceeds factory design specifications, is readily available and very cost effective.

I can promise when it's time to replace the old Steelneyes it won't be because of a rotted transom.


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## I Fish

It's been a few years ago, but, I got mine from Composites One. I got a 4x8 sheet 3/4" thick. It was around $350 after tax and shipping. I do remember it took about 10 days to get there, as it was cheaper to wait on a regular shipment. You can contact Coosa Composites and they will give you all the closest handlers. I just cut out 2 pieces and "glued" them together with 3M 5200 to make the needed 1 1/2" thickness. Looking around the Webiverse, it looks like it's still about the same price.


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## lil goose

I Fish said:


> It's been a few years ago, but, I got mine from Composites One. I got a 4x8 sheet 3/4" thick. It was around $350 after tax and shipping. I do remember it took about 10 days to get there, as it was cheaper to wait on a regular shipment. You can contact Coosa Composites and they will give you all the closest handlers. I just cut out 2 pieces and "glued" them together with 3M 5200 to make the needed 1 1/2" thickness. Looking around the Webiverse, it looks like it's still about the same price.


Thanks I fish, I checked them out on the web. I could buy a 11/2" board for around $600 bucks.


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## FireMurph

SeaCast
https://www.transomrepair.net/


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## My Demeyes

lil goose said:


> Thanks I fish, I checked them out on the web. I could buy a 11/2" board for around $600 bucks.


one sheet of 1-1/2" should do 2 transoms, finding someone to split the cost of a sheet of that would be ideal. That would bring it back into a more cost effective repair.


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## surffishn

The seacast is the way to go. I know a body shop owner here in NC. They fix or work on boats everyday. They can build boats also. I have a 89 Lund had to fix. They recommend the seacast. Easy to do.


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## nate gsi

lil goose said:


> I recently purchased a 2004 1990 pro v le and I am going to have to replace the transom. I was wondering if anyone out there has tackled one. I have researched it some and it doesn't look too awful bad but I got a quote for $1600.00 so I am just trying to decide whether to just get it done or do it myself. Any thoughts would be appreciated!! Thank you!!


See the below link. You will have to join the forum to see pics but these guys do some awesome stuff.
http://calumetmarine.proboards.com/thread/770/calumet-marine-fixes-transom-instructi


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## Rich B

lil goose said:


> I recently purchased a 2004 1990 pro v le and I am going to have to replace the transom. I was wondering if anyone out there has tackled one. I have researched it some and it doesn't look too awful bad but I got a quote for $1600.00 so I am just trying to decide whether to just get it done or do it myself. Any thoughts would be appreciated!! Thank you!!


Was the $1600 quote from a local Marina or body shop ? Or a friend ? That looks like it is a very good price (if the work is done correctly).

thanks.....


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## McJam

I have a 1998 Lund 2025 ProV, I am the original owner.
Since new this boat has been kept in a garage and only sits in the water overnight when I am in Canada for a week or so.
I shampoo the carpet and open compartments to dry it out after every trip.
I bought it in Sept 1998 and paid 3500 dollars to Lund to replace the transom in April of 09. It had corrosion coming through the aluminum from inside. Supposed to be new wood aluminum etc.
I pulled the boat out of the garage three weeks ago to wash it before vacation, paint popped off the transom......a hole from the inside. Aug 2017
I am now faced with another transom replacement.
Local dealer in contact with Lund to help with resolution.


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## Popspastime

I just found out from a Lund dealer that some late 17's but very limited, and now all t he 18's will be done in composite. 
McJam.. sorry to hear about your headache with that whole deal. I'm guessing because you have a track record with the last repair that Lund should or will step up for you.


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## lil goose

Rich B said:


> Was the $1600 quote from a local Marina or body shop ? Or a friend ? That looks like it is a very good price (if the work is done correctly).
> 
> thanks.....


It was from a Lund dealer Marina in Andover, Ohio but he only does them in the winter.


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## Lundy

The cost to replace mine was more than twice that amount.

A few have stated that it is a simple job. On My 2025 PRO V, with a 225 and a 15 and all of the other stuff coming trough the transom,the gunnel caps, splash well rivets, it looked like anything but a simple job to me.


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## firemanmike2127

The factory rep told me @ the Michigan Sport Show in Novi that the 2017 Pro-V models were constructed with composite materials. He was there with Bee's dealership out of Lansing. My goal is to purchase a 2025 Pro-V IFS but buying a boat with potential transom issues has me looking real hard at new vs used. Mike


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## Popspastime

From the 1650's on up the 2018's will be built with composite materials. Go for it firemanmike..I did..being built next week.


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## I Fish

Lundy said:


> A few have stated that it is a simple job. On My 2025 PRO V, with a 225 and a 15 and all of the other stuff coming trough the transom,the gunnel caps, splash well rivets, it looked like anything but a simple job to me.


It is pretty simple. Probably the only thing that requires any special tools is the splashwell drains, but you can get the tool: https://www.amazon.com/520290-1-Dra...94556&sr=8-1&keywords=drain+tube+flaring+tool

and the tubes: https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-0210...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5BRD0VNEXMAJYWTVQETH


You shouldn't have to drill out but very few rivets, just the ones holding the cap and corners, everything else is just through bolts.

Also, a sheet of 3/4" is all you need. Just cut out 2 and laminate them with 5200 to get 1 1/2" transom.


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## Lundy




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## Popspastime

Eww that's ugly..


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## Lundy

Yes, it was an ugly process. The wood wasn't terrible but needed to be replaced. 

Better than new now.


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## Popspastime

Lundy,
Looking at the piece you removed looks like some water (a slight bit) seeped thru the weep holes and the rest leaked from the top of the port gunnel. It isn't apparent anything wicked from the bottom by the looks of your picture. It looks like they have the wood high enough in the center to keep out of any water in the bottom of the boat. The biggest problem with our tin boats is there's no way to drain the cockpit directly to the bilge to be pumped without soaking all the wood between. The worst area's seem to be at all the cut-outs for hatches where the water can enter each corner where the seams are made on the coverings. Figure how to make a self draining cockpit like the glass boats and you'll be a bazillionair over night.


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## steelneyes2

All the Lunds leak from the top where the water flows off the gunnels. This wouldn't be such an issue except for the bottom of the transom wood being encased in floatation foam so the water can never escape or flow to the bilge. Port side is almost always the worst, presumably because the kicker is on that side on a Lund normally


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## steelneyes2

firemanmike2127 said:


> The factory rep told me @ the Michigan Sport Show in Novi that the 2017 Pro-V models were constructed with composite materials. He was there with Bee's dealership out of Lansing. My goal is to purchase a 2025 Pro-V IFS but buying a boat with potential transom issues has me looking real hard at new vs used. Mike


Again, it is not all years of Lunds, all of the boats discussed in this thread have been from the Genmar Era. I have not heard of problems with any of the Brunswick Marine Lunds from 2005 to present. It will say right on the Capacity plate whether its a Genmar or a Brunswick. Don't want this to turn into a negative thread about buying used Lunds.


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## Popspastime

steelneyes2 said:


> All the Lunds leak from the top where the water flows off the gunnels. This wouldn't be such an issue except for the bottom of the transom wood being encased in floatation foam so the water can never escape or flow to the bilge. Port side is almost always the worst, presumably because the kicker is on that side on a Lund normally


The transom panel doesn't look like it's deep enough to get into that area, looks to me by looking at Lundy's pic's the transom panel is well above any water that may get in the bilge. If it indeed did you would know you were flooded well before it got soaked. The fact is that there's no real way to seal these aluminum boats from the moisture. Water or moisture and a bit of heat in the bilge and you have the formula for rot plain and simple. Every time I park my boat I open every hatch to let it air before covering. This is not just a Lund specific problem, it's inheritant to all tin boats with any wood.


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## steelneyes2

Popspastime said:


> The transom panel doesn't look like it's deep enough to get into that area, looks to me by looking at Lundy's pic's the transom panel is well above any water that may get in the bilge. If it indeed did you would know you were flooded well before it got soaked. The fact is that there's no real way to seal these aluminum boats from the moisture. Water or moisture and a bit of heat in the bilge and you have the formula for rot plain and simple. Every time I park my boat I open every hatch to let it air before covering. This is not just a Lund specific problem, it's inheritant to all tin boats with any wood.


It flows in from the top gunnels, on the sides and the corners the foam is poured in at the factory and expands until all but the space in the center of the main 2 longitudinal strakes is full. It does not come from the bilge, it runs underneath the trim caps from the gunnels and then is trapped. 
The one I posted pictures from before literally had saturated foam up against the wood. When I went to remove the foam it was literally frozen after being in a heated garage for a week. Hard to explain unless you've actually disassembled a Lund and looked at the design. Once you have, it becomes apparent what the design problems are and what to do to overcome them.


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## lil goose

Update I was waiting on a little cooler weather to get started. After removing both outboards and drilling out a bunch of rivets and digging out floatation foam and removing 62 transom screws we finally got the transom out! It looks like the top cap was leaking both weep holes and the thru bolts on the kicker motor were the worst!! Getting ready to make the new transom and appoxy it! By looking at the old transom I can't see where Lund used any kind of sealer. Unless it has just deteriorated. We have about 6-7 hrs. in it that's 2 guys working cautious not to bend or break anything else!! I will keep everyone updated as I go along. Thanks again for all the help!


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## lil goose

Oh yeah I checked on a composite transom from Lund with all the holes drilled out for the low price of $795.00 plus shipping. In case anyone was wondering.


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## bountyhunter

sounds like you got it figured out,tell your dad I said hi.


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## lil goose

bountyhunter said:


> sounds like you got it figured out,tell your dad I said hi.


Yeah not too terrible at the beginning I was kind of what have I got myself into but now it's really not that bad!! I will tell Dad you said hello!


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## lil goose

New transom is in as well as the splash well. I tell you those air rivetguns are awesome!! Everything is tight and flush!! Waiting on my painter to repaint my transom. Finally getting there!!


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## lil goose

Transom job is complete! Repainted and motors hung!! Had about $800.00 in it but that includes everything even new hardware! Two of us worked on it on spare time and we weren't in any hurry so it took us a couple of months! I can't wait to get it out next spring to try it out!! It was quite of an endeavor for sure!! I am glad we did it though peace of mind!! I am sure that this triple expoxied wood will last a long time!! Thanks again for all the support and advise! This truly is a great website with great members!


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## Decoy hound

lil goose said:


> Transom job is complete! Repainted and motors hung!! Had about $800.00 in it but that includes everything even new hardware! Two of us worked on it on spare time and we weren't in any hurry so it took us a couple of months! I can't wait to get it out next spring to try it out!! It was quite of an endeavor for sure!! I am glad we did it though peace of mind!! I am sure that this triple expoxied wood will last a long time!! Thanks again for all the support and advise! This truly is a great website with great members!


Pictures please of your masterpiece!!!


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## lil goose

I would love to but I can't figure it out!! Send me your# and I can text some to you! Sorry l am not very good on the computer or phone.


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## Gottagofishn

Awesome work there.... 
As far as Lund having figured things out... Not. I have a 2013. This year I noticed some bubbling around the scuppers. Also, as I was crawling around waxing the trailer I noticed some around one of the strakes as well. Lund has approved repairs, just haven't found the right company to effect those repairs yet. Beautiful boats, just the same issue as so many other things these days.... They want your cash for the least amount of effort.


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## lil goose

Gottagofishn said:


> Awesome work there....
> As far as Lund having figured things out... Not. I have a 2013. This year I noticed some bubbling around the scuppers. Also, as I was crawling around waxing the trailer I noticed some around one of the strakes as well. Lund has approved repairs, just haven't found the right company to effect those repairs yet. Beautiful boats, just the same issue as so many other things these days.... They want your cash for the least amount of effort.


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## lil goose

Watch your top transom cap if the screws won't tighten then that's a sign or if you are getting some rusty looking water around any of your transom bolts. That is what tipped me off! If you ending up replacing get a hold of me and I might be able to help you with some frustration! LOL If Lund would have spent a little more money these transoms wouldn't have this problem. Good luck


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## Popspastime

They started building all the 18's with composite transoms.


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## fishtank

Popspastime said:


> They started building all the 18's with composite transoms.


I would like to find a person or company to work on a Lund transom.Im sure I have some rot . Name @no please thank you.


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## McJam

fishtank said:


> I would like to find a person or company to work on a Lund transom.Im sure I have some rot . Name @no please thank you.


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## McJam

Just picked up my 1998 Lund 2025 after having 3rd transom installed. Al Williams Enterprises in Centerville. 937-433-1833


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## Lundy

The above is the same guy that replaced mine this year. I know he replaces a lot of transoms. His shop is not a showplace.


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## Rich B

McJam said:


> Just picked up my 1998 Lund 2025 after having 3rd transom installed. Al Williams Enterprises in Centerville. 937-433-1833


What were the costs for the new transom at this shop ? (if you want to PM me on same that's good too) - were you pleased with the quality of the work on the repairs ? thanks.....


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## McJam

Rich B said:


> What were the costs for the new transom at this shop ? (if you want to PM me on same that's good too) - were you pleased with the quality of the work on the repairs ? thanks.....





Rich B said:


> What were the costs for the new transom at this shop ? (if you want to PM me on same that's good too) - were you pleased with the quality of the work on the repairs ? thanks.....


I concur with Lundy about the shop but the repair looks good. He had another Lund (Tyee) waiting to go in. Cost me 3K


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## Lundy

His work looked good, a couple of issue but not major overall.
Cost for transom replacement was similar to above and then I had new floor and vinyl in the main part of my lund as well as the back carpet area.


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## EyeCatchEm

Pm me, I can help with replacing the transom


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## fishtank

EyeCatchEm said:


> Pm me, I can help with replacing the transom





EyeCatchEm said:


> Pm me, I can help with replacing the transom


EyeCatchEm sorry can't pm you fishtank


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## Snakecharmer

fishtank said:


> EyeCatchEm sorry can't pm you fishtank


Make a couple more posts and you should be able to pm


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## JawBreaker21

steelneyes2 said:


> I have done 3 of them on Lunds and several others on other brands. Lund transoms tended to fail because they had a poor seal on the trim cap and encapsulated the bottom of the wood in flotation foam. It was a problem from the early 90's until Genmar sold Lund to Brunswick and they redesigned the way in which the transom, transom cap, and floatation foam went together. $1600 is actually a pretty good quote given the amount of work involved. However it is critical to resin the wood, remove any foam that is in contact with the transom wood in order to give any water a channel to drain to the bilge and reseal with a flexible sealant all of the trim caps, and hardware. Send me a pm with a phone number, I have sources for all of the materials. Material cost for a 1995 17 ft. fisherman was around $500 total including all new hardware, wood, resin etc. The complete job from motor unhanging to finished and on the water took right around 75 man hours.[
> 
> Mine has rotted out. I have a 21’ Baron magnum what information do you have that you could give me to help me out? Any information at this point would be a big help. Thanks in advance. 704-791-8324


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## lil goose

If you have the time and space you can replace it yourself! Took me about a month but just worked on it a few hours here and there. If you have any questions text me at 330-205-0485 I would be more than happy to help you with any questions or concerns you may have. Goose

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## roundbadge

water and wood, go figure


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## jeffro

Just thought I would keep this thread alive by documenting my rebuild on a 1995 Prosport 17. 







Just a little history,bought the boat in 2000 for $10,000 and put a lot of water time between Erie and inland waters Michigan to Tennessee. I've been keeping my eye on the transom sense reports started coming in around 2005 and started to see a little bow in the transom last year.
I started to blow it off for another year but while replacing the bilge and live well pumps I reached under the inner transom skin and found a small rotted spot. Not wanting to tare or deform any aluminum thought I mite as well be proactive fix the issue before it gets any worse.
Will be going with marine plywood sense the first round lasted 25yr's.


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## bridgeman

Might wanna check out homestead hardwoods up by Sandusky, I did my starcraft with the maranti hydrotech they had in stock and couldn't believe the difference it made. Way better than any box store exterior grade. The stuff is like iron, I'm pretty sure it'll last longer than I will. It's a tad bit pricey but I made the whole transom with one sheet (about 130.00) and I sealed it with west marine epoxy resin that cost me about 60.00 or so. Took about 12 hours from the time I took the top cap off... mine was so bad it looked like mulch..


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## jeffro

Not going with exterior grade,will be marine grade and west systems.
Thanks for the tip,mine will take much longer because of work and wife.


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## eyecatcher1

Replace them now because once they get real bad, you’ll need a chain saw go get them out...


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