# Electronics Flickering...?



## ShutUpNFish

Ok heres my set-up.... 

I have a Lowrance HDS10 and Lowrance HDS7...I use the 7 strictly for mapping, but it is run into the LSS1 via ethernet...HDS10 is used for sonar and side imaging and also connected to the LSS1 via ethernet. Both units run to one main power panel with Power down switch which all runs back to a Main battery (1000 CCA). I had the battery load tested yesterday because I thought it may be the problem, but it tested fine. Both motors on my boat run to that one main battery...My meter says 12.5V at battery but 10.5 at the power panel? Turn the radio on and the volts drop to 9.5 on that panel.. 

Heres whats happening....When I troll with my 20hp Honda or run the 150 Honda, the units are fine - flickering....If I turn the engines off and start casting or drift fishing, after about 5 minutes, the HDS-10 begins to flicker like crazy and the internal Lowrance voltage meter is saying 9.5; However, when I put my portable voltage meter on the battery direct, its reading over 12.5 output. 

Any ideas?? 

Thanks! 

Paul


----------



## EYEFISHER2

To small of wire from battery to finders? Causing voltage drop? Just a guess or possibly the wire got kinked at some point breaking some strands inside the insulation....if possible i would pull slightly larger wire which is fairly low cost and eliminate that possible problem first and go from there. Also check all connections possy and neut on both ends


----------



## Lundy

Definitely a power supply issue. Either output at the battery or voltage drop from wire size, or damage to wire connections.

These new Lowrance units are very sensitive to voltage inputs it seems. I have a 12 and 9 touch and was having the same issues as you. I fixed mine by installing a dedicated battery and automatic charging switch system but most that have experienced your problem have fixed it just by running a new larger gauge dedicated power supply wire from the battery to the electronics.

I'm pretty sure you electronics kick off when you start your outboard also?


----------



## Lundy

This is what I did to solve my problem. A larger wire might have worked as a solution for me also but I wanted the isolation and charging capabilities also.

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=251656


----------



## ShutUpNFish

You are exactly right! When I hit the 150 Honda start, the big unit shuts down! Thats why I went to a higher cranking amp battery....700 to 1000....It helped, but now it just flickers on the start but stays on.....So what supply wire would you recommend??

I also purchased a 12 circuit fuse panel from Blue Sea....that I am going to instal later today.

ThankS!


----------



## SPOONFEEDER

ShutUpNFish said:


> You are exactly right! When I hit the 150 Honda start, the big unit shuts down! Thats why I went to a higher cranking amp battery....700 to 1000....It helped, but now it just flickers on the start but stays on.....So what supply wire would you recommend??
> 
> I also purchased a 12 circuit fuse panel from Blue Sea....that I am going to instal later today.
> 
> ThankS!


The size of wire is determined by length of wire needed and the amount of total amps going to be wired to your fuse block. I personally ran 8g wire to my fuse panel.

A good place to buy wire on line is https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/ some best prices i have found


----------



## hupcej4x4x454

Interesting issue... had a very similar problem with my HDS 7 flickering and shutting off last year, along with the voltage drop at the unit and dash gauge. Initial thought was the battery. After checking wiring, ended up finding a bad, loose crimped wire terminal connector for the battery cable at the main circuit breaker... the wire pretty much came out of the terminal when jiggling things around. Looked like it had been loose and arcing for a while. Fortunately, it was a quick, cheap and easy fix.
Good luck.


----------



## ShutUpNFish

I found my problem and THANK YOU all for the responses....I ran my meter checks back and was getting 12.5 into my main POWER switch in the dash...turned ON its output was 9.5ish....Took the switch out, cleaned the prongs and added di-electric grease and fixed it....Reading the full 12.5 all over now! WOW something so simple! I ended up ordering a new POWER switch as a spare for the future. 

BTW - The Main feed wire is 10 gauge...I did go buy 8 guage wire just in case...do you thinks its necessary to still change the main power line from the battery?? Thanks 

You just never know...I do plan on installing my new BLUE SEA fuse panel though because the dinky one that is factory is pretty ridiculous!

Again, Thanks all


----------



## Lundy

Glad you found that, it is always nice to actually find a problem when troubleshooting.

It may or may not eliminate your unit kicking off during motor startup but you should be good the rest of the time now. If It still kicks off during motor start I would run the 8 ga and see if that eliminates that problem.


----------



## ShutUpNFish

Lundy said:


> Glad you found that, it is always nice to actually find a problem when troubleshooting.
> 
> It may or may not eliminate your unit kicking off during motor startup but you should be good the rest of the time now. If It still kicks off during motor start I would run the 8 ga and see if that eliminates that problem.


Thanks Lundy, 

I will monitor from now on, however, I did try turning everything on then kicking over the 150 with not a flicker or anything....That may not be the case with some draw on the battery...I will keep an eye on it and I have the cable now as well.

Thanks!


----------



## crappiedude

I'm glad to see this thread, timing is everything. 
I'm having the same problem & I was suspecting it was from a 3 year old battery just getting weaker but the boat starts just fine. I knew Lundy had a similar problem a while back and was going to start a search for his past thread.
Being that the boat is a 20 year old Tracker I'm positive the wiring needs to be upgraded so I will change that before even checking anything. 
I'm headed to Ky Lake the end of next week so it will be good to get this fixed.


----------



## tomb

I'm thinking some boats just aren't factory prepped prpperly for all these electronics. My centerconsole has very heavy power wires from battery to console for accessories and I never have a problem with my units shutting off.


----------



## Lundy

I never had a problem either until I upgraded to the new Gen2 touch 12 and 9. These are a little more power sensitive, or seem to be.


----------



## ShutUpNFish

Likewise.....


----------



## crappiedude

Lundy said:


> I never had a problem either until I upgraded to the new Gen2 touch 12 and 9. These are a little more power sensitive, or seem to be.


Same here. I have Low Gen 1. 

Besides the HDS units themselves just being more sensitive if you are running a LSS module you are putting even more demand on the system itself. 
I didn't have any problems when the battery was brand new so I'm not convinced the battery isn't causing some of the problem. The problem started last year when the battery was 2 years old. We'll see.


----------



## crappiedude

Well here's the follow up.
Before replacing anything here's what I had and my problem. It seemed every time I started my outboard my electronics would either flicker or shut completely off. Both HDS units plus the LSS module were ran directly to the + and - posts on the fuse panel. The fuse panel was powered by a 16ga wire from the starting battery.

My fix was I left the original set up in place for the fuse panel. 
For the electronics I ran 10' of new 10 ga wire from the battery to under the console where the electronics with fuses were the connected to the new +/- wires.

I just spent a week at Ky Lake and I never had the electronics shut off or even flicker even once the whole week I was there. 
So if you're having a problem with electronics shutting down or flickering when you start your motor, I would your check the wiring 1st.


----------



## MikeC

Good stuff.


Shakedown cruise yesterday. HDS10 turned off at various times with 12guage wire approx. 26 ft run, dedicated 12v newer gelpac batt with HDS, Trollking and GoWireless the only things attached. Last night I moved the battery under the dash and cut the run to 5 feet with 10guage. Will report.

Thanks again for the info to cut down on headscratching. 

MikeC


----------



## crappiedude

MikeC said:


> Good stuff.
> 
> *Thanks again for the info to cut down on headscratching. *
> 
> MikeC


I think the follow-up reports with results are just as important as the initial question(s). I was just about to change out my 2 year old starting battery but I just wasn't convinced it was a battery problem.
The only thing running on my 10 ga wire is the LSS1 module plus the HDS 7 & 8.
Good Luck


----------



## MikeC

6ft run of 10 gauge seems to have fixed all problems.

MikeC


----------



## ShutUpNFish

Another Follow Up:

Well, after a few more trips, I am getting flickering again...however, it now only occurs after I drift for an hour or so and run the electronics...The units and whatever else is running is apparently draining the battery to the point where it will flicker/shut off mu units on the next start up. 

After thinking about this further, I really think I am in need of another battery....The one battery is running a lot of equipment now since I added another unit and vhf, etc.....Plus it is my only starter and I want to be sure I'm safe out on the big lake...NOW here is my question....If I got another battery, how exactly would you set it up? Any ideas?? Thank you!!


----------



## crappiedude

ShutUpNFish said:


> Another Follow Up:
> 
> *After thinking about this further, I really think I am in need of another battery....The one battery is running a lot of equipment now since I added another unit and vhf, etc*....


You know I thought that too. My original set up ran the bilge & live-well, instrument panel, lights ect. plus the electronics

I'm curious about a couple of things.
1st How old is your starting battery. Does it start you boat okay?
2nd What is your current wiring set up?

As a test it's pretty cheap to run a couple of 10 ga wires to your electronics.


----------



## ShutUpNFish

crappiedude said:


> You know I thought that too. My original set up ran the bilge & live-well, instrument panel, lights ect. plus the electronics
> 
> I'm curious about a couple of things.
> 1st How old is your starting battery. Does it start you boat okay?
> 2nd What is your current wiring set up?
> 
> As a test it's pretty cheap to run a couple of 10 ga wires to your electronics.


Everything runs to one main power switch on the dash....10 guage wiring from the battery to the switch then to a main panel which is tiny and will be changed out soon. The battery is brand new (1000 CCA), load tested and perfect. I seriously think running the two HDS units and radios is a good bit of draw...Both motors are connected to this battery and charge it as well..


----------



## MikeC

My new system is a dedicated 12v battery hooked to a Blue Sea 6 bank fuse box with 10guage wire, about a 6 foot run. In retrospect, I would have gotten the 12 bank had I to do it over again. After that I use the proper fuses and wire the electronics into the fuse bank with smaller gauge wire. Nice and neat. no need for inline fuses.

MikeC


----------



## ShutUpNFish

Thanks Mike, I did buy the 12 bank Blue Sea fuse panel....just waiting for some decent weather to install it.

However, do you have a main power switch? I like this feature because when you hit one button, everything powers down...no worries about leaving something on...(I have kids!) LOL


----------



## crappiedude

MikeC said:


> My new system is a dedicated 12v battery hooked to a Blue Sea 6 bank fuse box with 10guage wire, about a 6 foot run. In retrospect, I would have gotten the 12 bank had I to do it over again. After that I use the proper fuses and wire the electronics into the fuse bank with smaller gauge wire. Nice and neat. no need for inline fuses.
> 
> MikeC


That looks like a good set up if ya have the room for the extra battery. I'm not much of a fan of inline fuses either but I don't have the room for another panel. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## MikeC

ShutUpNFish said:


> Thanks Mike, I did buy the 12 bank Blue Sea fuse panel....just waiting for some decent weather to install it.
> 
> However, do you have a main power switch? I like this feature because when you hit one button, everything powers down...no worries about leaving something on...(I have kids!) LOL



Yes, I have use a Wirthco Knifeswitch. A little overkill but I had it on hand and I wasn't using it. I also have a small on/off to power down my Troll King. It is very cheap and is giving me problems such as not powering down so I must replace it with a quality on/off. Here's a picture, hopefully of the Wirthco. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...OtNGrZT-4qLfvCY93heboQKEa9LdbZ8B_4-q_XuY8SyXz


Good luck.

MikeC


----------



## beetlebailey

I have a hds gen 2. what I did was add a 3rd battery to my boat under my console wired my lawrance straight to it CORRECTLY! and its out of the way.


----------

