# Boat bottom/hull coating



## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

Ok, I did a search and couldn't find any related information, but I'm thinking about applying a coating of a product called "Raptor" on the bottom/keel area of my aluminum boat. It 's typically used as a bedliner, sprayed on, can be tinted to any color, and it's tough as nails. By adjusting the spray, the application can be fairly smooth in appearance, so it would be easy to clean and wouldn't attract scum. I think it would look nice and also cover up any imperfections on the bottom of the boat, plus add a nice layer of protection. Proper etching would be done beforehand, and really wouldn't be too labor intensive. 
Any thoughts? Anyone done something similar?


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## bustedrod (May 13, 2015)

i have painted alum boats , usually acid etched primer then paint.. i have had very good luck with paint designed for concrete and block , works good when camo ing ..


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

bustedrod said:


> i have painted alum boats , usually acid etched primer then paint.. i have had very good luck with paint designed for concrete and block , works good when camo ing ..


Busted....what brand of paint did you use? The Raptor will be tough as nails and very protective, though I'm interested to hear what else works. Did you roll it on or spray it?


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## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

raptor liner is a good product. I used it on my truck and it held up well. however, for what you'd pay, check out steel flex 9xn 2000 superslick (or something like that). Also, wetlander, gator glide, and frog spit are boat bottom coatings. I personally applied steel flex to my boat. Worked very well, and has held up well too. It covered all my rivets so thick that I don't see my boat leaking again for the life of it... and only cost $75 to my door.


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

derekdiruz said:


> raptor liner is a good product. I used it on my truck and it held up well. however, for what you'd pay, check out steel flex 9xn 2000 superslick (or something like that). Also, wetlander, gator glide, and frog spit are boat bottom coatings. I personally applied steel flex to my boat. Worked very well, and has held up well too. It covered all my rivets so thick that I don't see my boat leaking again for the life of it... and only cost $75 to my door.


Thanks, Derek...is the steel flex similar to Raptor? Like bedliner material? How did you apply it? Spray or roller? Also, how did you get the boat hoisted off the trailer so you could apply it?
Thanks again.


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## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

I rolled it, though it's more like "pushed it" because it's so darn think. I applied it with my hull flipped over. It's more of a glossy, epoxy coating. 

I believe the other coatings I mentioned can be sprayed or rolled without flipping the hull, but steelflex can't.
















The second pic is of the rivets. They're coated at least 4mm thick I think. Like I said, solid and cheap

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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

derekdiruz said:


> I rolled it, though it's more like "pushed it" because it's so darn think. I applied it with my hull flipped over. It's more of a glossy, epoxy coating.
> 
> I believe the other coatings I mentioned can be sprayed or rolled without flipping the hull, but steelflex can't.
> 
> ...


That looks great! Really did cover the rivets....that boat will last forever!


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## derekdiruz (May 27, 2015)

Mooner said:


> That looks great! Really did cover the rivets....that boat will last forever!


If you go to tinboats.net, check out the boat house section. There's a sticky called everything steelflex. Read up!

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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

Will do...thanks!


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

I'm not a fan of "coating" rivets. Rivets can be tightened or replaced over the life of a boat. I use a commercial version of Imron designed for industrial coatings. Very high solids content, brush-able/rollable with the right reducer, and literally tough as nails. As far as a primer, I also use the 2 part epoxy primer that is made by the same company. Sand everything down/rough it up with 400 grit. Then I use POR (paint over rust) products's marine clean degreaser and then their prep spray. Let it dry and make sure there is no "beading" when you rinse it off with water. Apply the primer. If you want a shiny pretty finish, let it dry over night, and sand it with 400. If you are looking for a flat duck boat finish, just paint over the dried primer. This finish is what cedar point paints their roller coasters with. It is TOUGH!

*edit... Looks like AXALTA is the new parent company rather than Dupont
http://www.axaltacs.com/us/en_US/products-services/liquid-coatings/general-industrial.html

http://www.por15.com/Preparation-Products_c_12.html


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

Capt, I'm somewhat familiar with Imron...it's used on small airplanes, too. Good idea! That is really good stuff! I don't need to worry about coating rivets because my boat doesn't have any. I'm leaning toward NOT using Raptor, since the company won't assure me it will hold up in water. They "think" it will....ha. I can't live with a maybe. Thanks for all the great info. Your boats look great!


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

Over the years I have done tons of restorations. The Grumman sport boat in the pic is a 1978. I have learned that even though I don't figure in a cost for my labor, it is very valuable. Cheap materials and products is never a place to save a buck. There is over $500 in supplies in that stupid canoe and trailer. Was it worth it? At first I thought no. Now I realize that the paint job on that boat is 8 years old and literally looks brand new. I can't move onto new and different projects if I am constantly working on old projects. That sport boat is a rare and odd duck. They are very sought after and cost $2200 new. There is hardly ever any "savings" by restoring anything. What you do get is exactly what you create, good or bad. It is both the biggest small boat and the smallest big boat you could ever ask for. I will probably have a viking's burial in that boat. Set us ablaze and send us out to sea!


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## Mooner (Feb 12, 2017)

Your Grumman sport boat looks fantastic! I'm definitely going to look into using Imron. Would you say it is scratch resistant also? What's your other boat in the photo?
I've always told my wife I want to be cremated when my time comes, but I like your idea of a viking's burial, too. lol


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

The boat in the back is my dads 24'mako walk around. It has been a fantastic boat. Sadly we are looking to sell it. I run a 20' Lund Tyee and at 72 dad just rides with me. 
The imron is probably the toughest "paint" type coating I have ever used. I use it on all of my projects. It is pretty scratch resistant. I dont worry about beaching the boat or dragging it up on shore. If it does scratch a touch up is no big deal. The primer will literally turn bullets. The trailer is POR 15 over coated with black imron. It was rusty as hell, I simply de-greased it, prepped it and rolled POR 15 on it. While it was still tacky, I rolled the black imron right over it. The biggest warning with all of these products is to use them OUTSIDE with a good charcoal filter respirator. You will get very sick and risk major harm if you use them inside. I RARELY spray it because I don't want to breathe it. Supposedly its not as dangerous as the original imron, (people damn near died). By rolling it outside you have eliminated 99% of the risk. I've painted steel, wood, aluminum, fiberglass, and plastic with it and always been very pleased with the outcome. I get my patented "3 foot" finish with it. (it looks professional until you get within 3' of it )


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