# Ford jubilee tractor question



## vib-E

Not sure where i should put this post but here it goes.i put a new solinoid on hit the push button and nothing.jumped from battery side of solinoid to small terminal on solinoid and it clicks.12v positive ground.now whats the next step?not sure if theres any tractor guys on here but thought id give it a shot.thanks fir any info.


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## Lewis

Check for 12 volts at the starter while the solenoid is energized. Could be a defective starter. If you have 12 volts at the starter and the engine does not crank it's either a defective starter or locked up engine. Sometimes you can make a faulty starter work temporarily by giving it a wack with a hammer.


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## bountyhunter

all post and battery connections been clean? and I,ve had the push button go bad years back. but it sounds like a poor ground , take the wire off and sand clean to bear metal .


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## vib-E

12V at the solinoid but not on starter side.nothing on starter side.seems maybe the push button start is not making contact?


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## vib-E

Ill clean grounds later.got fishin to do at the moment.lol.does the solinoid need grounded through bracket?but like i said ill clean all conections first.


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## fastwater

After you make sure all your connections are clean and tight, if problem still persist you may want to check the neutral safety switch/solenoid that should be mounted on transmission. If it's bad you'll get symptoms like you're describing. Should have two wires attached to two posts on top of switch. 

First check the wire ends/connectors and make sure they are okay a and tightly connected to switch.

You can test if the switch/solenoid is bad by taking a jumper wire and going from one post to the other leaving tractor wires hooked to switch and trying to start the tractor. Essentially you are just bypassing neutral switch.
*NOTE:* MAKE SURE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL AND CLUTCH DEPRESSED BEFORE TRYING TO START CAUSE IF SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM THE TRACTOR WILL START IN GEAR.

If tractor turns over or starts, replace switch. If not problem is somewhere else.


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## vib-E

Dont beleive my jubilee has that switch.only wires i got is to the key,button,solenoid,generator,and coil.


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Dont beleive my jubilee has that switch.


What year is it?
Will tractor usually start with gear selector in gear?

When you refer to the 'solenoid' are you referring to the starter solenoid on the actual starter. 
Or are you referring to a little round solenoid/switch with two wires attached to it that screws into the trans. that looks like this: 

View Large Image
*Ford Tractor Neutral Safety Switch - C7NN7A247A - C7NN7A247A Ford Tractor Neutral Safety Switches*
Neutral safety switch for Ford tractor models from 1965 & up with pressed steel shifter plate. Switch has terminal studs for hook up.
Retail Price $19.00


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## vib-E

No it wont start in gear.its a 1953.solenoid not on starter its mounted above starter on back of battery tray and looks like this....then there is a push button start button that kicks solinoid in to turn starter over.


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## bountyhunter

don,t ever think it can,t start in gear, jump across the push button.


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## vib-E

Always make sure its out of gear.i had to try since it was mentioned.iv seen what happends when its started in gear with a hay rake hooked up.while the guy was standing infront of rear tire.


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## fastwater

Have you tested for power coming in to the starter solenoid/relay you have pictured? Then test for power coming out of the relay when you hit the push button switch?
FWIW, if you have power coming in to the relay and non coming out when you hit the push button, try putting a jumper across the two large posts of the relay and see if it starts.


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## vib-E

Ill try that jump.yes power going into solenoid nothing out as i push button.i did jump from battery side to small terminal on solenoid and it just clicks.


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## fastwater

You also might want to check and see if you have any fuses blown as well. Ignition fuse is very possibly an inline fuse.


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## vib-E

Thanks.i didnt see one but yet i wasnt looking for one


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## fastwater

Being a 1953, its a good chance it originally came with a 6v system. If this is the case, they could have stuck a fuse,fusible link or a breaker most any place when they converted the system to 12v. After you check each component (push button switch, starter relay, ign. switch etc.)jumping across them and seeing that current is flowing through them , along with insuring ther are no fuses in the system blown, it's time to start checking wiring for continuity. Might have one that looks good but is broken on the inside.
Had an old Massey that gave me a fit. Found the small wire from the ign. switch to the starter relay that looked good but was broken on the inside. It was routed behind the battery that set down in the battery box that is located down in a recess right behind the dash panel. Had to pull the battery just to see the wire.
Don't know what series of Jubilee you have but if you google '1953 Ford Jubilee ignition wiring schematic images' you will find some that may help you. There are even a couple I was looking at that showed Jubilees that were converted from 6 to 12v.

Also, was thinking of what you posted about having power going into the starter relay you showed a pic. of and nothing coming out. 
That is a three post switch. Does it have a larger wire coming into one of the large post that has power, on the other larger post a larger wire going from that large post to starter , and on the small post, a smaller wire going up to the ignition switch?
If this is the case, then again, you should have power coming into that starter relay on one large post and no power to the small post or the other larger post with the key off. When you turn the ignition switch on, you should get power on the small wire through the ign. switch down to the small post of the starter relay. That closes the starter relay and you should have power coming out of the other large post. 
If you have power coming into a large post of the S.R.(starte relay), and after you turn the ignition switch on, you have no power to the small post, obviously the S.R is still open not letting current come out the other large post to the starter. If this is the case, your problem is either in the ign. Switch itself, in the wire coming from the I.S.(ignition switch) to the small post on the S.R. , the hot wire coming into the I.S. or possibly a fuse blown in that circuit.
Think of the I.S. being the brain that tells the S.R. what to do.

Just trying to get an idea of how it's wired.


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## vib-E

Thanks fastwater.appreciate all information.when i get a break from work ill check it all out.ill return to post outcome.


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## FAB

You have two separate systems running here, the switch only provides power to the coil to produce spark so the engine can run. The push button causes current to the magnet in the starter relay to flow which then causes the magnet to pull the large internal washer in the relay down against the two lugs on either side of the relay with are the other end of the two big studs you see on the outside. Now both the button and the relay operate the same way, they cause a completed circuit in the wire. Small wire in the button and large cable on the relay. But with that understanding if you jumped the small terminal on the relay to battery voltage and it clicked indicating the magnet had pulled the washer up to the lugs inside , then you should have had power to the starter. Unless number one you bought a bad new relay, ( I have had it happen before) second there is a problem in the starter but you said you checked and you do not have voltage on the starter side of the relay , there should be when you have power going to the small lug and have heard the click. The relay does nothing more than bridge across the large wire from the battery to the large wire going to the starter. But it will only do so as long as there Is power going to the small lug to keep the magnet energized as soon as the power is off then the spring inside the relay will pull the washer back down from the lugs and you will have no power on the starter side. You will always have voltage on the battery side this is also true in the push button switch you should have power on one side and not the other. Until you push the button and then power on both sides, in this case your finger acts like the magnet in the relay does. The fact that you had to jump the relay to get it to energize is my first concern, that indicates you have a power loss coming from or into the push button, either in the button itself or the wiring to or from the button to the relay. You must have voltage on one side of the button before you push it and you must have voltage on the other wire while you push it. Same thing on the relay after you put voltage to the relay and you hear it click then you must have voltage on the starter side or the new relay is bad. Very simple set up but in most cases it is bullet proof. Hope this helped a little bit.


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## vib-E

Ok i took a jumper wire from battery side of relay(big clamp in pic) too little terminal.just clicks real fast...then i made the jump from battery side of relay straight to starter..nothing at all and i tried from battery side of relay jumped to starter side of relay.that should of done it right?soooooo the starter burned up?i tapped with hammer.whats next.i checked wires inline fuses cleaned connections tighten all connection.but jumping straight from battery to starter should of did something.am i wrong here?


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## vib-E

Forgot pic


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## AlanC

Just a thought here, did you hear a clunk the last time the starter actually initiated? If you have a bad tooth or two on the Bendix drive it can jam on the flywheel. Loosen the starter and wiggle it, this will usually free up a stuck drive.


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## fastwater

AlanC said:


> Just a thought here, did you hear a clunk the last time the starter actually initiated? If you have a bad tooth or two on the Bendix drive it can jam on the flywheel. Loosen the starter and wiggle it, this will usually free up a stuck drive.


...and a very good thought at that. 

But there is one more test I would do before messing with starter. 

*WARNING: DO THIS AND KEEP YOURSELF FROM BEING IN PATH OF TIRES.*
1)Take a jumper cable and go from where the negative battery cable attach to the starter up to the neg. post on the battery. This will in theory by pass all ground wires eliminating the possibility of a bad ground. 

2)Then take another jumper cable and hook one end to where the hot post of the starter. Take the other end and 'TOUCH' the positive post of the battery. 

When you do this test, you are basically bypassing all switchs and relays same as bench testing a starter. 

If this fails as well, follow AlanC's advice in seeing if starter is jammed/engaged against the flywheel.

If it is not, pull starter from tractor and bench test using the same wiring hookup as described above. If starter doesn't kick in and out, you have a bad starter


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## FAB

vib-E said:


> Ok i took a jumper wire from battery side of relay(big clamp in pic) too little terminal.just clicks real fast...then i made the jump from battery side of relay straight to starter..nothing at all and i tried from battery side of relay jumped to starter side of relay.that should of done it right?soooooo the starter burned up?i tapped with hammer.whats next.i checked wires inline fuses cleaned connections tighten all connection.but jumping straight from battery to starter should of did something.am i wrong here?


You are correct it should have activated the starter. Be sure you are correct about the positive ground. I have seen a lot of 6 volt positive ground but 12 is less frequent, not saying it is not but make sure. Now it is sounding more like you need brushes replaced in the starter.


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## vib-E

The starter is grounded to where it bolts on at.so i took it off and tried jumping same places.had 12v at starter but of course it wasnt grounded.so im going to have to ground starter and try it that way.relay still did the clicking with starter off.so either a ground is messed up or the starter.the positive ground was the way the guy had it when i got it.it started hundreds of times like that.so im figuring its positive ground.maybe a auto parts store can check the starter out?i dont remember a clunk at last starting nothing noticable anyway


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## FAB

vib-E said:


> The starter is grounded to where it bolts on at.so i took it off and tried jumping same places.had 12v at starter but of course it wasnt grounded.so im going to have to ground starter and try it that way.relay still did the clicking with starter off.so either a ground is messed up or the starter.the positive ground was the way the guy had it when i got it.it started hundreds of times like that.so im figuring its positive ground.maybe a auto parts store can check the starter out?i dont remember a clunk at last starting nothing noticable anyway


Yes the relay will click with the starter off but you should have voltage on the line to the starter if not then the relay is not sending voltage to it. there must be voltage on both sides of the relay when you put power to the small lug other wise the relay is bad. That click is the internal disc coming against the lugs but sometimes it does not touch the output lug and then you have no power to the starter. Connect a jumper to the small lug and leave it then after you have heard the click check the cable to the starter for voltage if none then go get another relay.


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> so im figuring its positive ground.


Where does the cable that is hooked to the positive battery post lead to??? If the system is positive ground, that cable will lead straight to ground.


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Where does the cable that is hooked to the positive battery post lead to???


Ground...tractor frame


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## vib-E

FAB said:


> Yes the relay will click with the starter off but you should have voltage on the line to the starter if not then the relay is not sending voltage to it. there must be voltage on both sides of the relay when you put power to the small lug other wise the relay is bad. That click is the internal disc coming against the lugs but sometimes it does not touch the output lug and then you have no power to the starter. Connect a jumper to the small lug and leave it then after you have heard the click check the cable to the starter for voltage if none then go get another relay.


I did have power to the starter.but starter did nothing.


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## vib-E

FAB said:


> Yes the relay will click with the starter off but you should have voltage on the line to the starter if not then the relay is not sending voltage to it. there must be voltage on both sides of the relay when you put power to the small lug other wise the relay is bad. That click is the internal disc coming against the lugs but sometimes it does not touch the output lug and then you have no power to the starter. Connect a jumper to the small lug and leave it then after you have heard the click check the cable to the starter for voltage if none then go get another relay.


I did have power to the starter.but starter did nothing.


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## FAB

vib-E said:


> I did have power to the starter.but starter did nothing.


Then the starter is bad.


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Ground...tractor frame


Okay. You are correct. It is a positive ground system.

Is there an ignition switch and a push button for the starter or just a push button???


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Okay. You are correct. It is a positive ground system.
> 
> Is there an ignition switch and a push button for the starter or just a push button???


Yes key ign switch and a push button for the starter


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## bajuski

vib-E said:


> Ok i took a jumper wire from battery side of relay(big clamp in pic) too little terminal.just clicks real fast...then i made the jump from battery side of relay straight to starter..nothing at all and i tried from battery side of relay jumped to starter side of relay.that should of done it right?soooooo the starter burned up?i tapped with hammer.whats next.i checked wires inline fuses cleaned connections tighten all connection.but jumping straight from battery to starter should of did something.am i wrong here?


You are sure your battery is good. That sounds like a relay chatter usually caused by a low battery. Just because you have 12 volts doesn't mean that it's a good battery!


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## vib-E

bajuski said:


> You are sure your battery is good. That sounds like a relay chatter usually caused by a low battery. Just because you have 12 volts doesn't mean that it's a good battery!


Im pretty sure according to my charger.but just to clearafy ill put on my marine battery for good measure.did it once already ill do it again.next time im working on it.u guys have been really helpful.appreciate all the comments and tips,ideas.


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## bajuski

vib-E said:


> Im pretty sure according to my charger.but just to clearafy ill put on my marine battery for good measure.did it once already ill do it again.next time im working on it.u guys have been really helpful.appreciate all the comments and tips,ideas.


I see in your picture that you have cables, why not just try to jump start it!


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Yes key ign switch and a push button for the starter


Okay! We'll get back to that in a minute.

If you still have the starter off the tractor, you can still bench test it using a good battery and a set of jumper cables. It doesn't make a difference that the starter came out of a positive ground system. The testing procedures will be the same. 
Note: if you choose to use the tractor battery for this testing and are not going to take battery out of tractor, make sure and disconnect the tractor battery cables from battery before starting test.

Set the starter on a bench
Hook a jumper cable red clamp to the starter lug you took the tractor cable off of.
Hook the other red clamp to the positive battery post.
Hook a black clamp on the negative battery post.
Grab starter and hold it down wit one hand
Using the other hand, touch the starter body with the other black clamp.

Starter should kick. If it doesn't your starter is bad.

If it does, starter is obviously good. Re-install it on tractor and hook everything back up.

Back to the starter button and key switch...

On the small post of the starter relay, follow that wire up and see where it goes. If it goes directly to the push button, you will not get power to the small lug (and obviously not the big relay lug feeding the starter) on the starter relay till the push button is pushed.
So with your starter on, everything hooked back up, ignition switch in on position, use your test light and make sure you have power coming into the relay on one big lug. Push starter button and see if you get power to small and other big lug feeding starter on relay. Then test and make sure you have power down at the starter lug.

If you get power to the starter relay small lug and not on the other larger lug feeding the starter, your relay is bad.

If you don't get power on the small lug when button is pushed, you better check the wiring at the starter button or test the starter button itself.


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## vib-E

bajuski said:


> I see in your picture that you have cables, why not just try to jump start it!


I did.first thing i tried.small lug a click click click.big lug on relay nothing.


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Okay! We'll get back to that in a minute.
> 
> If you still have the starter off the tractor, you can still bench test it using a good battery and a set of jumper cables. It doesn't make a difference that the starter came out of a positive ground system. The testing procedures will be the same.
> Note: if you choose to use the tractor battery for this testing and are not going to take battery out of tractor, make sure and disconnect the tractor battery cables from battery before starting test.
> 
> Set the starter on a bench
> Hook a jumper cable red clamp to the starter lug you took the tractor cable off of.
> Hook the other red clamp to the positive battery post.
> Hook a black clamp on the negative battery post.
> Grab starter and hold it down wit one hand
> Using the other hand, touch the starter body with the other black clamp.
> 
> Starter should kick. If it doesn't your starter is bad.
> 
> If it does, starter is obviously good. Re-install it on tractor and hook everything back up.
> 
> Back to the starter button and key switch...
> 
> On the small post of the starter relay, follow that wire up and see where it goes. If it goes directly to the push button, you will not get power to the small lug (and obviously not the big relay lug feeding the starter) on the starter relay till the push button is pushed.
> So with your starter on, everything hooked back up, ignition switch in on position, use your test light and make sure you have power coming into the relay on one big lug. Push starter button and see if you get power to small and other big lug feeding starter on relay. Then test and make sure you have power down at the starter lug.
> 
> If you get power to the starter relay small lug and not on the other larger lug feeding the starter, your relay is bad.
> 
> If you don't get power on the small lug when button is pushed, you better check the wiring at the starter button or test the starter button itself.


I will try this.got family obligations today.ill respond back when i do it.thanks so much!!


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Okay! We'll get back to that in a minute.
> 
> If you still have the starter off the tractor, you can still bench test it using a good battery and a set of jumper cables. It doesn't make a difference that the starter came out of a positive ground system. The testing procedures will be the same.
> Note: if you choose to use the tractor battery for this testing and are not going to take battery out of tractor, make sure and disconnect the tractor battery cables from battery before starting test.
> 
> Set the starter on a bench
> Hook a jumper cable red clamp to the starter lug you took the tractor cable off of.
> Hook the other red clamp to the positive battery post.
> Hook a black clamp on the negative battery post.
> Grab starter and hold it down wit one hand
> Using the other hand, touch the starter body with the other black clamp.
> 
> Starter should kick. If it doesn't your starter is bad.
> 
> If it does, starter is obviously good. Re-install it on tractor and hook everything back up.
> 
> Back to the starter button and key switch...
> 
> On the small post of the starter relay, follow that wire up and see where it goes. If it goes directly to the push button, you will not get power to the small lug (and obviously not the big relay lug feeding the starter) on the starter relay till the push button is pushed.
> So with your starter on, everything hooked back up, ignition switch in on position, use your test light and make sure you have power coming into the relay on one big lug. Push starter button and see if you get power to small and other big lug feeding starter on relay. Then test and make sure you have power down at the starter lug.
> 
> If you get power to the starter relay small lug and not on the other larger lug feeding the starter, your relay is bad.
> 
> If you don't get power on the small lug when button is pushed, you better check the wiring at the starter button or test the starter button itself.


Ok since it was a quick test for starter to battery i did it.starter spins!!!now as for the rest itll have to wait.


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## bajuski

vib-E said:


> Ok since it was a quick test for starter to battery i did it.starter spins!!!now as for the rest itll have to wait.


Good deal, now you know that you have a good battery and a good starter. You're getting sound advice here from others so I'm gonna stay out, you don't need another guy to confuse you!


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Okay! We'll get back to that in a minute.
> 
> If you still have the starter off the tractor, you can still bench test it using a good battery and a set of jumper cables. It doesn't make a difference that the starter came out of a positive ground system. The testing procedures will be the same.
> Note: if you choose to use the tractor battery for this testing and are not going to take battery out of tractor, make sure and disconnect the tractor battery cables from battery before starting test.
> 
> Set the starter on a bench
> Hook a jumper cable red clamp to the starter lug you took the tractor cable off of.
> Hook the other red clamp to the positive battery post.
> Hook a black clamp on the negative battery post.
> Grab starter and hold it down wit one hand
> Using the other hand, touch the starter body with the other black clamp.
> 
> Starter should kick. If it doesn't your starter is bad.
> 
> If it does, starter is obviously good. Re-install it on tractor and hook everything back up.
> 
> Back to the starter button and key switch...
> 
> On the small post of the starter relay, follow that wire up and see where it goes. If it goes directly to the push button, you will not get power to the small lug (and obviously not the big relay lug feeding the starter) on the starter relay till the push button is pushed.
> So with your starter on, everything hooked back up, ignition switch in on position, use your test light and make sure you have power coming into the relay on one big lug. Push starter button and see if you get power to small and other big lug feeding starter on relay. Then test and make sure you have power down at the starter lug.
> 
> If you get power to the starter relay small lug and not on the other larger lug feeding the starter, your relay is bad.
> 
> If you don't get power on the small lug when button is pushed, you better check the wiring at the starter button or test the starter button itself.


Rainy day so i got starter back on same thing.power at battery side relay push button no power at small terminal on relay.there for no power at starter side.


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## fastwater

Follow small wire from small post on starter solenoid. Does it go directly to the push button?
If so, is push button mounted into the top of the transmission by the gear shift? In other words if you replaced the push button, would you have to remove the shifter and top plate of the trans. ?


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## vib-E

Yes sir.i got a button ordered.have to take top plate off to unbolt


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## fastwater

Okay. That style push button is what stops your tractor from starting in gear. It acts like the neutral safety switch we discussed earlier in this thread. How it works is if the gear selector is in neutral position part of the shift linkage in the trans. touchs the underside of the push button switch grounding it. This allows that ground to go through the push button switch down to the small post on the starter relay. In other words, that small post on the starter relay needs to sense ground before it will open and let juice flow through it from one big post to the starter side post.

All that being said... *WITH THE TRACTOR IN NEUTRAL(and staying clear of wheels)*... take a jumper wire and hook one end on the small post of the starter solenoid. Touch the other end to ground(any place on the eng.block or tranny.) See if she turns over. By doing this you are bypassing that push button switch. If it turns over, the switch is obviously bad or is not getting grounded when trans.in neutral for some reason(maybe linkage in trans. worn or out of adjustment) . If it does not, your problem is elsewhere.

FWIW, since you are dealing with a ground circuit from the small post on the starter relay to the push button, obviously a test light will not work for testing that wire. You should never get 12v current on that wire. If you had a continuity tester you could test the push button switches operation as follows: Hook one end of the C. tester to ground and the other end to the terminal on the push button where the wire attached. If the push button is good , the tractor in neutral and is getting ground on the inside of tranny as it should be, when you push the button your Continuity tester will show a complete ground circuit.

If you put the trans.in gear and push the button the C. tester should not show continuity. Cause if push switch is working properly and shift linkage adjusted as it should be, the push button will lose its ground inside the tranny. causing no ground down to starter solenoid.

Shift back to neutral, push button...should get continuity...


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## vib-E

It reads 1.6 volts at button connection.in neutral and in gear.doesnt make a differnce if i push button or not.reads 1.6v no matter what.reads 12v every other connections.maybe i did continuty wrong?


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> It reads 1.6 volts at button connection.in neutral and in gear.doesnt make a differnce if i push button or not.reads 1.6v no matter what.reads 12v every other connections.maybe i did continuty wrong?


Okay!

Now try taking a jumper wire and go from small post on starter relay and touch other end of jumper straight to ground. Again, *stay clear of wheels* as you are in essence bypassing the push button which also acts as your neutral safety.


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## vib-E

Tried again on this setting....pic below....read 580 at all options.in gear.in nuetrul as pushing button.


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## vib-E

Nope the jumping didnt work either


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## fastwater

Okay!

Did you just replace that starter solenoid? And if so was the original solenoid a three post solenoid as well? And, do you still have the old solenoid?


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## vib-E

Yes just replaced it.still have old one both r three post


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## fastwater

Okay!

Take and re-install the original starter relay.

Then again, run a jumper from the small post on original starter relay to ground.


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## RJohnson442

50 post later take it to a shop!


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## vib-E

I see the problem.in the pic this is the old relay.the small terminal is on the "I" on the new relay the small terminal is on the "S" I didnt try the old one.but was comparing the two.so thats got to be the problem eh? 53 post later.aint going to the shop.thats the lazy way.


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## vib-E

Old relay


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## fastwater

Just for piece of mind, I'd put the old relay back on and jump from the 'I' terminal to ground and see what happens. Actually you don't even have to hook the small tractor wire up to the 'I' terminal. Just the two larger posts. If starter relay closes, you should get power out the other post to the starter. Then you know the push button is bad or is not ground inside the tranny.
In other words, there might not be anything wrong with the old starter relay.

If you still get nothing, I'd take the old relay into a ford tractor dealer, tell them what I had and that the tractor is a 12v positive ground system with push button and ignition switch and get the proper relay.They will be more familiar with your setup and you'll get the right relay.

From what I've read about the way your tractor is wired, with the ign. turned *off* and tractor in neutral if you push the starter button the engine should turn over but tractor will not start.


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## RJohnson442

Im saying 50 post later if you can't figure out if its the relay (that you've replaced) and don't even know if that's the problem or the starter (that you haven't even bench tested) or the nss that i don't believe you've tested correctly. Then yes you need to pay for knowledge at this point. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make em drink... most of todays lawnmowers are more complicated then this tractor. If you don't have it by now take it to someone who does. You'll spend less in labor and parts then the time you've spent now a a tractor that will still not start on something that use to run fine...


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## bajuski

vib-E said:


> Old relay


Is it at all possible that you put the hot lead from your battery to the wrong side of that relay? I could see that causing it not to draw in!


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## vib-E

Nah impossible.wires only long enuf for each terminal.one be to short if theyed be switched


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Just for piece of mind, I'd put the old relay back on and jump from the 'I' terminal to ground and see what happens. Actually you don't even have to hook the small tractor wire up to the 'I' terminal. Just the two larger posts. If starter relay closes, you should get power out the other post to the starter. Then you know the push button is bad or is not ground inside the tranny.
> In other words, there might not be anything wrong with the old starter relay.
> 
> If you still get nothing, I'd take the old relay into a ford tractor dealer, tell them what I had and that the tractor is a 12v positive ground system with push button and ignition switch and get the proper relay.They will be more familiar with your setup and you'll get the right relay.
> 
> From what I've read about the way your tractor is wired, with the ign. turned *off* and tractor in neutral if you push the starter button the engine should turn over but tractor will not start.


Will do buddy.thanks for the help.


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## vib-E

bajuski said:


> Is it at all possible that you put the hot lead from your battery to the wrong side of that relay? I could see that causing it not to draw in!


Oh and the relay is labled.batt and starter


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Will do buddy.thanks for the help.


No problem. Hope you get her running.


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## fastwater

Hey *vib-E,*

Was looking at the pics of the old starter relay setting on the table you posted back in post #9. In that pics. it looks as though there is a wire coming off of the small 'I' post. Or is that just the way the picture looks?


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## bajuski

vib-E said:


> Oh and the relay is labled.batt and starter


Good


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Hey *vib-E,*
> 
> Was looking at the pics of the old starter relay setting on the table you posted back in post #9. In that pics. it looks as though there is a wire coming off of the small 'I' post. Or is that just the way the picture looks?


Thats the way the pic looks.what u see there is part of the mounting ear.looks like a wire the way its sitting but its not.ill fill u guys in as what happends.once i get a min to work on her again.


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## vib-E

Hooked old relay back up clicks by pushing the button.having a hard time finding relay with three terminal with small terminal with the "i"


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Hooked old relay back up clicks by pushing the button.having a hard time finding relay with three terminal with small terminal with the "i"


Try giving these guys a call :

* 1953 Ford Jubilee Solenoid at Steiner Tractor...*
antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/*1953*...Cached
*1953* *Ford* *Jubilee* Solenoid; ... *12* *Volt* *Starter* Solenoid | *Ford* Naa. *Starter* Solenoid *Relay* ... *3* *post*. Works on 6V and 12V systems, *FORD* applications ONLY. ...
They had one for $15 and some change.
Explain to them you need the 3 post with the 'I' on the little post.


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## fastwater

Also forgot to add...

With your old relay/solenoid hooked up( make sure solenoid is mounted to a clean surface and getting good ground) and it clicking when button pushed, take your test light and see if you are getting anything out of the starter side of the relay/solenoid when you push the button. If not, relay is bad. If you are getting power out of relay, check down at the starter where cable attachs to starter. If no power there, replace bad cable.


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## vib-E

No there was no power on starter side of relay as i pushed button.


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## fastwater

If you know your old relay is grounded good, I think I'd get another relay.


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## vib-E

Im trying to hunt one down.


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Im trying to hunt one down.


Where are you located?

Are there any numbers stamped into your old solenoid?


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## waterfox

get a meter
if this pic doesn't show google naa wiring digram
as others have said connection are important.
clean file and hookup again. if you have a good ground
then a jumper cable from batt to starter should work. just because
starter worked on bench doesn't mean it will work under
a load. have you determine the motor is not froze up


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## vib-E

fastwater said:


> Where are you located?
> 
> Are there any numbers stamped into your old solenoid?


Beach city....only numbers i can read is 524-6v


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## vib-E

waterfox said:


> get a meter
> if this pic doesn't show google naa wiring digram
> as others have said connection are important.
> clean file and hookup again. if you have a good ground
> then a jumper cable from batt to starter should work. just because
> starter worked on bench doesn't mean it will work under
> a load. have you determine the motor is not froze up


Motor not froze.i bump start it.


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## fastwater

vib-E said:


> Beach city....only numbers i can read is 524-6v


You're either gonna have to find a Ford dealer close to ya or buy on the net.
I typed in 524 6v starter relay and got a lot of hits where you could buy online and images of your relay. Shouldn't be hard to get.
If ya have a good Napa store close that deals with tractors they should be able to cross reference that number and come up with one.


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## vib-E

Jubilee up forsale.$1000.aint got time.


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## Snakecharmer

vib-E said:


> Jubilee up forsale.$1000.aint got time.


Where's the tractor located?


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## vib-E

Beach city


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