# Electronics issues???



## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

Let me start by saying I am an amateur when it comes to installing electronics. With that being said, I have an hds7 and 5 rigged on my console. Whenever I start the motor to move, the hds7 loses power. The hds5 blinks, but typically stays on. Any suggestions?


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## fishingmaniac (Apr 3, 2012)

Weak battery. Bad connections.


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## KPI (Jun 4, 2011)

Power draw takes everything to start boat maybe hold a multi meter where you are getting the power from ,and start the boat you will see the drop to the fish finder,you could hook the finder up to another battery not on the boat and see if it still does it hope this helps


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

Too many things on too small of a wire. I'm not a fan of wiring direct to the battery, but I would see where the dash is fed from. I always wire a "sub panel" with a main switch.


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

capt j-rod said:


> Too many things on too small of a wire. I'm not a fan of wiring direct to the battery, but I would see where the dash is fed from. I always wire a "sub panel" with a main switch.


Where would I purchase a sub panel?


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## sherman51 (Apr 12, 2011)

wire directly to the battery with a inline fuse. I had problems like that many yrs ago when I run my finder off a fuse panel. I started wiring to the battery and haven't had a problem in many yrs.
sherman


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

sherman51 said:


> wire directly to the battery with a inline fuse. I had problems like that many yrs ago when I run my finder off a fuse panel. I started wiring to the battery and haven't had a problem in many yrs.
> sherman


It only loses power. I just don't like having to turn it back on every time I start the boat. Will the inline fuse still solve the problem?


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## capt j-rod (Feb 14, 2008)

ArtieT said:


> Where would I purchase a sub panel?


http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA-8372-PANEL-WATERPROOF-CB-12VDC-4-POS-p/blu8372.htm
Like Sherman said, wire this direct to the battery with a heavy gauge wire... 6 or 8. Get a separate main switch, wire the feed positive wire through the main, then feed the panel. The only two wires that live outside the switch direct to my battery is the float switch to the bilge pump, and the stereo preset wire. Take your time, label everything, use good crimp ends, and do it right the first time. Electrical gremlins are the worst!


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

KPI said:


> Power draw takes everything to start boat maybe hold a multi meter where you are getting the power from ,and start the boat you will see the drop to the fish finder,you could hook the finder up to another battery not on the boat and see if it still does it hope this helps


I've always been told that all electronics should be wired to the starting battery. It's a new battery too. I don't want to connect it to one of the trolling batteries either. Was told that's a no no.


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

capt j-rod said:


> http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA-8372-PANEL-WATERPROOF-CB-12VDC-4-POS-p/blu8372.htm
> Like Sherman said, wire this direct to the battery with a heavy gauge wire... 6 or 8. Get a separate main switch, wire the feed positive wire through the main, then feed the panel. The only two wires that live outside the switch direct to my battery is the float switch to the bilge pump, and the stereo preset wire. Take your time, label everything, use good crimp ends, and do it right the first time. Electrical gremlins are the worst!


Thanks for the info but most of what you said is WAY above my pay grade. Lol. Maybe it's time for a professional to take a peek?


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## Decoy hound (Apr 3, 2015)

I had the same problem when I bought my new used boat and checked everything, found that it was wired properly, so I replaced the batteries and never had the problem again.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

What you are experiencing is very common.

http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/threads/electronics-flickering.277472/


This what I installed but most find a fix without going this far. I went this route to fix the voltage drop problem and to provide a better charging system for all 4 batteries on my boat. It has been on my boat for two years and has worked as it is supposed to.


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## MikeC (Jun 26, 2005)

Easiest fix is to use a separate 12 volt battery for the HDS 7 and 5 if you have the room. I have a walleye boat and I put one right on the floor at my feet tucked under the console. I have an HDS 10, Go Wireless, Vex T-Box, a Control King and an accessory bar with USB port hooked to it and I never have a problem anymore. I have a fuse block between the electronics and the battery but you could just use inlines too.


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## Farmhand (Jul 11, 2011)

Mine have a low voltage cut off, if it goes below x amount it turns off. Used to experience it from time to time, now I run all my electronics, radios, etc off 1 battery, engine off the other. Hasn't happened since


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

MikeC said:


> Easiest fix is to use a separate 12 volt battery for the HDS 7 and 5 if you have the room. I have a walleye boat and I put one right on the floor at my feet tucked under the console. I have an HDS 10, Go Wireless, Vex T-Box, a Control King and an accessory bar with USB port hooked to it and I never have a problem anymore. I have a fuse block between the electronics and the battery but you could just use inlines too.


Mike, How do you charge that battery under your console for your electronics?


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

Lundy said:


> What you are experiencing is very common.
> 
> http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/threads/electronics-flickering.277472/
> 
> ...


Unfortunately I don't carry a "house" battery. I run a 19.5 foot boat with a 36 volt troll motor (3 batteries) and a battery for the engine and electronics. I really don't want to add another battery.


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## MikeC (Jun 26, 2005)

Lundy said:


> Mike, How do you charge that battery under your console for your electronics?


I bought a used single bank charger off either an OGF member or CL, I can't remember which. Works great. I've got the battery in a walmart two-pocket lunch bag, the battery in the bottom and the charger in the top. I pull the charger out when I'm charging and just tuck it back in when I'm leaving. I also have a three bank mounted in the drywell. I plug both in with a T. When I get REAL energetic I'll mount the single in the drywell too. As an aside, I use a blade on the positive to turn everything off.

Artie, Lundy's fix may work for you, I'm not that familiar with it. If not, you may have to go with a stronger (more expensive) battery such as the Sears Platinums.


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## ArtieT (Jan 28, 2014)

I think in gonna try and wire it through the main console. Hope that works. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll let you know if it works out.


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## spectrum (Feb 12, 2013)

Farmhand said:


> Mine have a low voltage cut off, if it goes below x amount it turns off. Used to experience it from time to time, now I run all my electronics, radios, etc off 1 battery, engine off the other. Hasn't happened since


Ditto on that! I got a 19' with 5 batteries on it now (3 for the 36v trolling motor, 1 for electronics, and 1 for the motor)
I was having the same problem when I had only the one. Then when I got a new motor the dealer told me the new motor has a low voltage cutoff and won't start after the battery is drained enough. I promptly went to the battery store after I picked up the boat. I don't like being 5 miles out on erie when the main motor won't start. Only happened once but that was cause the motor blew. Longest ride of my life with a 10 hp kicker. Just think of the extra battery as an insurance policy.


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## Lundy (Apr 5, 2004)

I run four batteries in my boat, one main, two trolling motor and one electronics.

With the automatic switching relay I installed in my boat (video link I showed earlier) and having all of the batteries connected through the relay I charge all of the batteries on my boat when ever I am running my main or my kicker or when I have plugged in my on board charger. The relay isolates the various batteries unless a input voltage is 13V or above.

Works really well and I don't have to remember to charge anything or switch a battery switch.


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## cutter2813 (Sep 7, 2015)

ArtieT said:


> I think in gonna try and wire it through the main console. Hope that works. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll let you know if it works out.


There are a lot of variables that will come into play to determine the voltage drop across your battery when cranking. The size of the engine, the condition of the starting motor, ambient temp, etc. If the voltage drops far enough while the engine is being cranked, the electronics WILL blink, even if wired in the manner rightly suggested by Capt-j. The only way to really be sure is to separate the house loads like electronics from the engine starting loads by having another battery. Lundy's suggestion is the best way to add another battery.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Artie, I had that same problem until last year, like Lundy said it's very common.
This is simple and fixed it. My original wiring to the units was ran through the fuse block so I unhooked the electronics (HDS7, HDS8 & LSS-1) from under the console and I ran 2 separate 10 ga wires (+Red/-Black)from the battery to the console and hooked all the electronics to these 2 wires. I do have inline fuses hooked in at the junction to protected the units.
My units were turning off every time I started the motor and I've not had a problem since running the new wire last spring and I fish 2 or 3 times a week.
Good luck with it.


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## tomb (Oct 9, 2004)

Got away without having this problem with same HDS7 touch and HDS5 combo when group 27 starting battery was newer. Added separate wiring for HDS 7 when I started having trouble too. Fixed it on all but trips in or near freezing weather. Will replace battery with group 31 in future. I don't want to carry weight of another battery either. My pull start kicker is my backup if I ever drain the main battery too far.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

What gauge wire did you run? You may just need a heavier wire 8ga or 10 ga is what I've seen most guys use.
I upgraded from a 24 series to a 29 series and it didn't help much.


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## tomb (Oct 9, 2004)

Don't remember. I'll try a heavier gauge first.


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## crappiedude (Mar 12, 2006)

Here's an easy way to check to see if just going to a heavier wire will help. Before running all new wires in your boat through all it's hidden passages just surface mount the wires as a temporary hook up going from your starting battery straight to the electronics. Your 1st time out on the lake will let you know if this was the fix. If everything works okay you can hide all your wires when you get home or when you have time to do it right.


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## tomb (Oct 9, 2004)

One trip won't answer on my boat. I had trouble on 3 or 4 out of 50 trips.


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