# Dipsy Formula's



## Popspastime

I didn't want to hijack another thread but still didn't want to drop the subject. 

I'm trying to formulate percentages such as depth increases with braid and I just can't find any numbers. Everything published from Lure Jenson is with 20 lb mono and 2.5 mph. which is good for a baseline but I need a hard number for the line diameters. 10% on a 1 mph speed increase or decrease is a published number so thats an easy figure. Nowhere have I found info on the 0's and I'm trying to put some depth charts together at different speeds based on Lure Jensons publications. After that it's just trial and error. 

If anyone would know the % increase of braid (30 lb.) I'd appreciate it. I love using the 0's and catch tons with them using the formula's I have but Lure Jenson charts and Pops chart are far, far apart. This is driving me nuts. I'll be glad to share after I get them put together.


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## Farmhand

Get the precision trolling app. You don’t need all that info though. Just use as a baseline , once your catching fish duplicate it on other rods.


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## Popspastime

Thanks Farmhand,
The Precision trolling app does not have info on the 0's. I've seen numbers as much as 20% on the Braid, that what I'm after, not how to fish..


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## sherman51

the way I got mine on the lite bite slide diver was to go out to 50' of water with 65# braid and a 4.5 setting at 1.8 to 2.0 mph. then I let out line until I was bumping bottom. it took 185' to get to the bottom. I divided 185' by 10' which gave me 18.5 times 10'. then I divided 50' by 18.5 which gave me 2.7 feet down for every 10' of line out. I then went out to 65' and let out 240' of line and sure enough I would just bump bottom every few feet. so just to make sure I divided 240 by 10 which is 24. then I divided 65 by 24 and still got 2.7 even though when I went 24 times 2.7 I got 64.8 feet down. now I just use the 4.5 setting and 2.7 to get to my depth at 1.8 to 2.0. then I just set my middle diver on 3 and put it out 15' or 20' shorter than the 4.5 then the 1.5 setting on the back diver is out 15' or 20' shorter than my 3 diver. if im only getting fish on the 4.5 setting i'll drop all my divers back another 15'.

you can do this with the "0" diver at say 30' then keep track of your speeds. I know this is a little hassle but with 65# braid and the lite bites it was the only way I could think of to know what I was running. but now to throw a wrench in at faster speeds my divers don't run as deep. at 3.0 that I ran with spoons last yr it was used as a guide only. if we caught fish we just repeated the leads.

this may not be something you want to do. but it gives you an accurate way to know your depth per each 10' of line out at any speed you test. sure hope this helps.

oh, the reason for the heavy line was I went out on a charter to learn how to use dipsies. he used 65# braid for his main line. so when I started on my own I wanted to have everything as close as possible to how we caught fish on his boat. I started maybe 10 yrs ago and believe some of my reels still have the original line on them.
sherman


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## Popspastime

Sherman51,

Thats a great way to get things going for a base but you cant count on it on this lake. Lake Erie is full of different currents and rip-tides, some as fast as 2 - 3 mph, good swimmers cant swim them. If it were in a dead calm lake that might work but doubtful here. For example, your pulling baits at 3 mph SOG heading West but you have a 2.5 mph rip-tide heading East, your now pulling that bait at 5.5 mph thru the water, follow me? Turn around and you doing the opposite. Thats a bit heavy on the current, but its there. If you add 2 mph that 20% (close) more line you need to pay out for the same running depth. I'm pretty sure when they test these things (21st Century) their pretty accurate with the findings and print outs. Now we the fishermen throw in all the variables, line, size, speed, types of water, and all those formula's change. I'm just looking for the correction for thin braid (30) and I'm golden.


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## STRONGPERSUADER

This doesn’t have the type of line but I’m assuming it’s mono. There’s probably no real way to tell other than using a fish hawk or something of that nature. All the factors you mentioned are going to be there no matter what line we use so I would think those numbers are going to change constantly. Those charts are just to get you close. We might just be overthinking it.


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## Popspastime

Strong..
You may be right but when I see them thick at 40 ft I want to drop it right on their heads to start,,lol. It's just nice to reference with accuracy that this set-up at a given speed will run right here.. then we throw all the variables to adjust. I'm getting a headache..  They test with 20 lb mono.


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## STRONGPERSUADER

Popspastime said:


> Strong..
> You may be right but when I see them thick at 40 ft I want to drop it right on their heads to start,,lol. It's just nice to reference with accuracy that this set-up at a given speed will run right here.. then we throw all the variables to adjust. I'm getting a headache..  They test with 20 lb mono.


Haha!! Well hell, just let out until you feel the dipsey bumpin them in the head. They are so thick right now that would probably work.


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## TRIPLE-J

here ya go


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## TRIPLE-J

and with a ring


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## TRIPLE-J

Popspastime said:


> Sherman51,
> 
> Thats a great way to get things going for a base but you cant count on it on this lake. Lake Erie is full of different currents and rip-tides, some as fast as 2 - 3 mph, good swimmers cant swim them. If it were in a dead calm lake that might work but doubtful here. For example, your pulling baits at 3 mph SOG heading West but you have a 2.5 mph rip-tide heading East, your now pulling that bait at 5.5 mph thru the water, follow me? Turn around and you doing the opposite. Thats a bit heavy on the current, but its there. If you add 2 mph that 20% (close) more line you need to pay out for the same running depth. I'm pretty sure when they test these things (21st Century) their pretty accurate with the findings and print outs. Now we the fishermen throw in all the variables, line, size, speed, types of water, and all those formula's change. I'm just looking for the correction for thin braid (30) and I'm golden.


cant see there would be any way to do that with every variable out there...
yes there are underwater currents on ANY lake that has to be taken into account
sherms way of doing it is probably the best and most accurate you will get for what you are trying to do'...
it will take into account any underwater currents in the area you are fishing
you will never get it dead on thats impossible with all the variables out there but the charts give you a great starting point...
if you are that worried about the underwater currents the only way to take that into account is to use a downrigger with a downtemp on it...
this will give you the exact speed and water temp at your downrigger ball 
i use my downtemp all the time even in shallow water and when trolling rivers


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## Popspastime

Thanks, that gives me a base line and something to go on.


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## sherman51

Popspastime said:


> Sherman51,
> 
> Thats a great way to get things going for a base but you cant count on it on this lake. Lake Erie is full of different currents and rip-tides, some as fast as 2 - 3 mph, good swimmers cant swim them. If it were in a dead calm lake that might work but doubtful here. For example, your pulling baits at 3 mph SOG heading West but you have a 2.5 mph rip-tide heading East, your now pulling that bait at 5.5 mph thru the water, follow me? Turn around and you doing the opposite. Thats a bit heavy on the current, but its there. If you add 2 mph that 20% (close) more line you need to pay out for the same running depth. I'm pretty sure when they test these things (21st Century) their pretty accurate with the findings and print outs. Now we the fishermen throw in all the variables, line, size, speed, types of water, and all those formula's change. I'm just looking for the correction for thin braid (30) and I'm golden.


I agree 100% with what you say about variables. but this gives me a base to go by. I believe I have a starting point to put my lure where I want it. but if im marking fish at a given depth and let out line to be on them or 5' above them and I don't start catching fish i'll adjust my leads until something happens. then I just repeat what caught fish. thats all part of the reason im not a big fan of calibrating my reels. once you let them down it all changes. but I do have my reels about 1/8 from the top of the spool and every reel is loaded with the same amount of line.

just to prove your point I have caught fish going one direction then turned around and went back the same course at the same speed and not caught fish. turn back around and catch fish again. but its not that bad most of the time. if that happens I sometimes pick up and run back to where I caught my 1st fish shut down turn around and start fishing. but all that was before these hatches put so many fish in the lake. I don't know if you could go the wrong direction and not get a few fish.

another point would be on our last day last yr. the water was rough so we almost didnt go out. but we only needed to go out to 55' to be in the fish. we headed west as close to 2.8 to 3.0. 2 hrs later we had 18 keepers. we only kept 16" fish and up. we were getting a little west so we turned around and used the gps to run as close to the same course. again our goal was 2.8 to 3.0. the fishing slowed as soon as we turned. it took 2 hrs 45 minutes to get 12 more keepers to finish our 5 person limit. we had 2 females on board so 5 man limit didnt sound right. we was running the same 6 rods with the same spoons but caught less fish in more time going east.

any chart or any one else's leads is only a starting point. but we have to start somewhere. and my 2.7' down for every 10' of line out has kept me close at all depths. after getting it at 50' I tried in 65' and let out 240' and it was still very close to being accurate at 65'. but on a different day or direction or location it could and sometimes is off by a few ft at 50'. 

all you guys have a great lords day. and go fishing if you can. if not try going to church.
sherman


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## sherman51

its been ages since I run dipsies. because I switched to the deeper diver and used them before switching to the lite bite diver. but can someone tell me which dipsy is the one most used on the central basin but not the mag diver? is it the 1? thanks for helping me out in advance.
sherman


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## walleyechaser

I hope you calibrated you reels


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## STRONGPERSUADER

sherman51 said:


> its been ages since I run dipsies. because I switched to the deeper diver and used them before switching to the lite bite diver. but can someone tell me which dipsy is the one most used on the central basin but not the mag diver? is it the 1? thanks for helping me out in advance.
> sherman


All I use are 1’s. I see lots of boats coming in and out with both jets and #1 dipseys.


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## privateer

don't over think it. use something as a starting point and then adjust until you are catching fish. correlate that to the fish you are catching and those on your fishfinder and you then know what is working. we run 30# braid and the precision trolling app is pretty accurate for us.


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## privateer

STRONGPERSUADER said:


> All I use are 1’s. I see lots of boats coming in and out with both jets and #1 dipseys.


yup. we run a bunch of jets off the big boards and then run the #1 dipsy (standard ring) on a #1 setting on the inside.

oh, that is a # (number, not hashtag)... :^)

gonna be confusing to the next generation. they will be asking, do I run my dispy on a "hashtag 1" setting. ha ha ha


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## sherman51

walleyechaser said:


> I hope you calibrated you reels


as someone else said about depth. there are so many variables like currents going one direction that makes the diver speed up faster than the boat is running. turn around and the same current makes the diver go slower than the boat. so in my opinion your depth can change with the currents. a slower diver will run deeper than expected. a faster diver will run shallower than expected. that why sometimes you'll catch more fish one direction then turn around and the fishing wont be near as good. this changes everything below the water. how you position your rods makes a difference in the depth of your diver. if you run the inside rod straight out the side and run your front diver up 45 degrees it changes the depth of the front rod. with 1 diver set on 3 another set on 2 and the other set on 1 your going to get a different dive curve for each diver. so how is calibrating them going to help anything. I don't or didnt always limit but from the radio we caught more fish than most. and I have never believed in a few feet making that much of a difference. so no I don't calibrate my reels and never have never will and I still get fish once I find them on my depth finder. but instead I filled my first reel with 150' of 17# ande mono then filled the reel with braid until it was about 1/8 from the top. then I filled all reels with the same amount of mono and braid. I use a 7' and 8' and 9' rods and run them all straight out the side.

I believe the tension used when filling your reels will change the amount of line needed to reach 100'. if you spool one reel with the line tight and fill the reel to 1/8" from the top, then fill another one loose it will fill the reel to the top making calibrating them a waste of time. because letting out 150' to 200' then reeling them in with almost the same tension it will change the top 100' on both reels. if you fill your reel with light tension then with 150' of line out then catch a large eye or steelhead and reel it in tight the calibration will most likely be off a few feet. but thats just my opinion.

I BELIEVE BEING ABLE TO REPEAT THE LEADS THATS CATCHING FISH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR IN CATCHING FISH. this is all im going to say on the matter of calibrating.
sherman


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## STRONGPERSUADER

sherman51 said:


> as someone else said about depth. there are so many variables like currents going one direction that makes the diver speed up faster than the boat is running. turn around and the same current makes the diver go slower than the boat. so in my opinion your depth can change with the currents. a slower diver will run deeper than expected. a faster diver will run shallower than expected. that why sometimes you'll catch more fish one direction then turn around and the fishing wont be near as good. this changes everything below the water. how you position your rods makes a difference in the depth of your diver. if you run the inside rod straight out the side and run your front diver up 45 degrees it changes the depth of the front rod. with 1 diver set on 3 another set on 2 and the other set on 1 your going to get a different dive curve for each diver. so how is calibrating them going to help anything. I don't or didnt always limit but from the radio we caught more fish than most. and I have never believed in a few feet making that much of a difference. so no I don't calibrate my reels and never have never will and I still get fish once I find them on my depth finder. but instead I filled my first reel with 150' of 17# ande mono then filled the reel with braid until it was about 1/8 from the top. then I filled all reels with the same amount of mono and braid. I use a 7' and 8' and 9' rods and run them all straight out the side.
> 
> I believe the tension used when filling your reels will change the amount of line needed to reach 100'. if you spool one reel with the line tight and fill the reel to 1/8" from the top, then fill another one loose it will fill the reel to the top making calibrating them a waste of time. because letting out 150' to 200' then reeling them in with almost the same tension it will change the top 100' on both reels. if you fill your reel with light tension then with 150' of line out then catch a large eye or steelhead and reel it in tight the calibration will most likely be off a few feet. but thats just my opinion.
> 
> I BELIEVE BEING ABLE TO REPEAT THE LEADS THATS CATCHING FISH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR IN CATCHING FISH. this is all im going to say on the matter of calibrating.
> sherman


Man Sherm, I have to view it another way. Whoever started this calibration of rods and reels was pretty smart, innovative imo. I think when this person came up with this idea, they knew as we do that you can’t fully control what’s under the water like currents and other factors. So he looked at doing what he could above the water to be more successful. We talk about that 100’ and we talk about revolutions, spool size, leads, ect. That 100’ is the factor. It’s like if you measure out 100’ and spool that on your line, I don’t care how many times I crank or what the weight of the fish is. I know that I have a 100’ of line on that rod. Then you add in another factor, the counter. That’s what you are really trying to accomplish. Once I zero it out at the rod tip I know where I’m at all times. That 100’ is 100’ of line on your counter every time. Has nothing to do with tension or revolution at that point. I don’t know if you ever tried calibrating but some rods I had to add 20-30 or so more revolutions on the reel to get the counter to read 100’ at exactly 100’ of line out. That’s a lot.
You should measure 100’ in your backyard on this fine Sunday and walk it off with your line counter and see where you are at. If your at 105-or 95, you will be adding or taking away more than 5’. You will see what I mean and what it takes to get it to a “true” 100’. It’s just an edge man. I just chose to do it, not everybody does and that’s cool too. Now back to that rod with just 100’ on it. Say I let 50 out to get 20 deep to those suspended fish I see on the screen. All good because I have that known factor. But what about my other 5 rods that I have no clue or no “factor? I’m going to be all over the place and hoping. Your really calibrating reels, line counters, and RODS. That’s how I see it.


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## Popspastime

I think your all running in different directions here.. I've been running Dipsy's a long long time and catching lots and lots, but.. What I'm trying to accomplish is a chart, an accurate chart, that in the perfect 2.5 mph with 100 ft of line out, with a number 0, where is my Dipsy running? After that we play all the other variables we're talking about. It seems all these charts are different from one another with the same 2.5 and 30 lb braid, not even close to one another. You would think.. that in this day and age when a manufacture prints the instructions and depth charts it would be dead on... let 80 feet out on a no. 2 setting and my diver is running exactly 25 ft. with 30 lb braid.. thats what I'm looking for... the truth.. not how to fish them. I have the tools, know how to use the tools without instruction (guessing). If your reels aren't calibrated your all over the board with depth. I know that every reel of mine is putting out 75 ft of line when it says 75.. case closed. Your 150 ft equals my 120 so how is your method accurate?, your 30 ft too short.

I keep comparing depth charts with the same exact variables and come up way apart on some. This is whats driving me nuts, how can it be so far apart when they've been out for so long?


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## TRIPLE-J

Popspastime said:


> If your reels aren't calibrated your all over the board with depth. I know that every reel of mine is putting out 75 ft of line when it says 75.. case closed. Your 150 ft equals my 120 so how is your method accurate?, your 30 ft too short.


just because you have 75 feet of line out exactly doesnt mean your diver is at the depth the charts say they are at unless you make your own charts 
like you said too many variables
so am i better knowing my reel is putting out exactly 75 feet of line when it says it is, or am i better knowing my diver is at 50 feet EXACTLY with the count at 125 cause thats where i charted my diver at when i did my chart
even if you calibrate your reels its a crap shoot where your lures actually are unless you do it for yourself and make your own charts, thats the only way you will know what your divers and lures are doing
yea a chart says ( and this is just an example not an actual chart setting) diver on 0 setting 100 feet out gets you at lets say 40 feet at 2.5 mph 
well what about all the line thats above the water from your rod tip to the water surface the charts dont account for that, and everyones rod holders are at different heights from boat to boat. theres probably 10 feet or more of line out of the water.
and what about the underwater currents that has an affect on the curve also
but if you go out to a known depth and let out your own diver in your holder and and start bumping bottom you know EXACTLY how much line you need out for that depth.
if you are worried about underwater currents in the area youre fishing do it in both or all 4 directions. 
now if you want to calibrate your reels and then make your own charts thats the holy grail you cant get any better then that..
i have a down temp on my boat and i cant remember ever running into underwater currents on erie that had that much effect on my lures....on lake ontario oh hell yea you better have a down temp on that lake there are some nasty currents there


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## TRIPLE-J

Popspastime said:


> What I'm trying to accomplish is a chart, an accurate chart, that in the perfect 2.5 mph with 100 ft of line out, with a number 0, where is my Dipsy running?


if you want to know that go out to 50 feet of water and let your diver out 100 feet in your holder, then start running shallower until you start bumping bottom and see what depth you are at when you start bumping bottom
its the only way you will know what you want.


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## Rybar

Hey Triple-j thanks for the charts could you post picture of #1 dipsy chart with ring, thanks


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## TRIPLE-J

Rybar said:


> Hey Triple-j thanks for the charts could you post picture of #1 dipsy chart with ring, thanks


figure youre wanting the chart for 30#braid???


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## STRONGPERSUADER

Thanks for the charts also TJ!


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## TRIPLE-J

sure thing guys hope they help...those are all out of an old precision trolling booklet i had in the basement


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## TRIPLE-J

if ya really want to get deadly i suggest doing this...
it will help down the road more than anything else you can do in my opinion








this is a chart for some fish caught during a few days up in olcott
i have a chart for every fish i caught up there over the years and most of my early year walleys on erie


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## TRIPLE-J

with this you can go back and look at your records for the time of year or weather pattern for the fish you are targeting and will give you a way better place to start especially in hard conditions, it can be invaluable at times trust me


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## STRONGPERSUADER

Just a little “for what it’s worth” guys. She and I were out of mentor in 45-48 fow yesterday and limited out in 2 hrs or so with dipseys and spoons. We handled a lot of eyes tho. Marking a lot of fish at 40’ and below, we had 4 rods out with #1 and #4 rods on 3 setting 134 back. #2 and #3 rods on a 1 setting 93 back and all were getting slammed. The braid on my #4 rod broke for some reason and lost quite a bit of line. I tied back up with another dipsey, leader, and spoon and thought I’m going to see how this plays out. That rod didn’t produce not one more fish while out. Nothing changed but the calibration. Even though it was set the same as #1. I had no clue where I was at and fishing blind with that 
#4 rod opposed to my other rods. Coincidence, I’m not sure but I cant imagine not having any of them calibrated.


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## Popspastime

Strong.. I'm with you 101%, you have to have them all identically calibrated so you can tell where your putting the baits. I like to call it testing the water..and playing at different depths. Once you get the program going on one you can zero in on that EXACT depth and adjust from there, been there. With that rod different from the rest your like poking a stick. Like all this other stuff we install in our boats these tools are there and need sharpened to be productive. People can fish any way they want, it's all good,, but.. You'll find in the grind the ones with the program will do it day in and day out. Experience teaches you how to and where to be but you need the proper tools. Now lets go fishing..


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## TRIPLE-J

calibrated is just a term you calibrate yours one way i calibrate mine my way, my way works for me and i know EXACTLY where my divers are at all times..
now yes you break off and drop a whole lot of line then yes you have to do it over again it doesnt matter how you CALIBRATE them
like i said before are you better off knowing you have exactly 100 feet of line out when your counter says it
or are you better knowing your diver is at exactly 35 feet down when you have 85 feet out
i would rather know my diver is at exactly 35 feet but thats me


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## TRIPLE-J

strong awesome job getting out and getting into them yesterday 
sounds like the spoon bite is still going strong
you using yours???


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## STRONGPERSUADER

TRIPLE-J said:


> strong awesome job getting out and getting into them yesterday
> sounds like the spoon bite is still going strong
> you using yours???


Yep, all on the ones I painted over the winter. With the exception of a few on a blueberry muffin stinger.


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## TRIPLE-J

awesome... i like hearing when people are trying their own thing and doing good
did you end up using powder paint??


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## STRONGPERSUADER

TRIPLE-J said:


> awesome... i like hearing when people are trying their own thing and doing good
> did you end up using powder paint??


I did. That’s some tough paint, I didn’t bake them and the finish is holding up well. I used a couple blanks to drill holes and cut patterns. It’s tricky as you gotta heat the spoon again and if not careful it will mess up the first color. That damn alwayzfishin talked me outta my regular paint guns lol but I will pick up another, it will be a lot easier to add spots and other colors.


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## TRIPLE-J

btw if you would have done as me and sherm have been suggesting you could have put that one rod right back exactly were you wanted it in about 5 minutes. obviously that didn't work for you the way you have been doing it...just sayin


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## TRIPLE-J

lets use this
its the fall brawl power goes out at work and you get sent home so you head for the boat, nobody else can go so your doin it alone
you can only run 2 rods
cold front came in the day before and you start marking huge marks tight to the bottom in 42 feet of water
you run your dipsys out 110 feet on a 3 setting cause that's what the PT app tells you, your lures are running at 40 feet
the port rod goes off and you have a huge fish on hoping it will make the board in the brawl, just as you get it in sight your starboard rod goes off and its screaming drag...
you fight the fish in and get it in the net and grab the other rod just in time for it to snap the line
Now your calibration is off cause ya just lost 225 feet of line what do ya do???
you hurry up and get another dipsy set up on a three setting , set the counter at zero and put it out, your still in 42 feet of water. you let it out till it just starts ticking bottom
it does just as the counter reads 200
but you want the dipsy at 40 not 42 digging into the bottom
well 200 divided by 42 equals 4.761
so for every count on your counter your line is going out 4.7 feet
you want to be at 40 exactly again
4.7 times 40 equals 190.476
now you know to get back to 40 foot exactly you need to let your dipsy out 190 feet
back in business and all it took was for you to drop the dipsy back down and re-calibrate to the conditions you have that's how to dial it in exactly and your reels don't have to be calibrated to do it
now this is for dipsy rods


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## STRONGPERSUADER

TRIPLE-J said:


> lets use this
> its the fall brawl power goes out at work and you get sent home so you head for the boat, nobody else can go so your doin it alone
> you can only run 2 rods
> cold front came in the day before and you start marking huge marks tight to the bottom in 42 feet of water
> you run your dipsys out 110 feet on a 3 setting cause that's what the PT app tells you, your lures are running at 40 feet
> the port rod goes off and you have a huge fish on hoping it will make the board in the brawl, just as you get it in sight your starboard rod goes off and its screaming drag...
> you fight the fish in and get it in the net and grab the other rod just in time for it to snap the line
> Now your calibration is off cause ya just lost 225 feet of line what do ya do???
> you hurry up and get another dipsy set up on a three setting , set the counter at zero and put it out, your still in 42 feet of water. you let it out till it just starts ticking bottom
> it does just as the counter reads 200
> but you want the dipsy at 40 not 42 digging into the bottom
> well 200 divided by 42 equals 4.761
> so for every count on your counter your line is going out 4.7 feet
> you want to be at 40 exactly again
> 4.7 times 40 equals 190.476
> now you know to get back to 40 foot exactly you need to let your dipsy out 190 feet
> back in business and all it took was for you to drop the dipsy back down and re-calibrate to the conditions you have that's how to dial it in exactly and your reels don't have to be calibrated to do it
> now this is for dipsy rods


I calibrated the rod already.... . 
You should know how stubborn iam by now bro. Haha


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## sherman51

whatever works for whoever. then lets just catch some fish with whats works for us.
sherman


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## bumpus

I gotta say I been following this thread because this is about my second year running dipsys and I've learned alot from everybody's input and appreciate every word of it from all who have contributed


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## TRIPLE-J

bumpus said:


> I gotta say I been following this thread because this is about my second year running dipsys and I've learned alot from everybody's input and appreciate every word of it from all who have contributed


ty i hope this helps alot of people catch more fish


STRONGPERSUADER said:


> I calibrated the rod already.... .
> You should know how stubborn iam by now bro. Haha


lmao
im not sayin your way is wrong it isnt it is a great way of doing it
but my way is the OLD SCHOOL way of doing things before precision trolling
this is how we calibrated our dipsy rods back in the 80's and still for me
its the same as what you guys are doing except im not looking at a store bought chart or app im using a chart i made with my rods on my boat in my holders with all my rods set up the same way
what difference does it make if your rods say your dipsy is running at 40 feet with 110 on your counter or if mine is running at 40 feet when it reads 125 ???
as long as my chart tells me that its the same thing
this thread was started because someone wanted to know if there was a chart or an app to figure out dive curves at different speeds.
this is how you do that with reels that are calibrated by the foot or if they are not
im not tryin to to bust anybodies way of doing things just tryin to get across there are other ways of doing things that work just as good or better



sherman51 said:


> whatever works for whoever. then lets just catch some fish with whats works for us.
> sherman


agreed lets get back to fishing


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## TRIPLE-J

strong,
now back to those spoons you painted
how do you like the action on those predator spoons?


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## STRONGPERSUADER

I think those and stingers are about the same. Stingers May have a little more action but the predators work for sure. The paint on the lastest stingers I’ve got seem to hold up better than 3-4 yrs ago. I’ve got more predators to paint and going to make up some for steelhead.


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## TRIPLE-J

yea i really liked the way the wide predators looked looks like they would have a great wobble action.
love that style spoon for steel in the fall


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