# Epoxy Question



## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

Just wondering if you guys could help me out before I drop some cash on clear cure glue/goo and a UV flashlight.

1. I have noticed some big price difference between these uv glues, which do you guys recommend or your number one glue to go with?

2. Are all UV flashlights the same? I have seen them go from $40 to just $10

Thanks for the assist....hurry up I am about to hit the fly shop!

Kidding!


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## crkwader (Nov 7, 2008)

I dropped some cash on the Clear Cure Goo set and have been absolutely thrilled with it. It does what I want it to do and it does it well. The only issue I have with it (and this has been the same with the loon UV system, and a couple of off market ones as well) is that after curing, if I don't put some clear finger nail polish after I have cured it, it stays quite tacky. It hasn't been an issue when tying, and the flies seem to hold up really well after a couple of fish. Honestly I would drop the money on the Clear Cure Goo set, it has been worth it for me.


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## sbreech (Jun 6, 2010)

I, too, have the clear cure goo light, and the epoxy I have been using is Clear Cure Goo Thick. I may cure mine a little longer than most, but I don't have the stickiness when done curing. The stickiness is actually the outgassing of the epoxy in relation to it's reaction with the UV light, much like silicone outgasses acetic acid (the vinegar smell). Working in fiber optics for almost a decade, we tried almost every UV epoxy out there trying to match the refractive index of the substrates being bonded. We were using high end Efos UV lamps, and we studied cure times and intensity. What we found was with higher intensity UV, the epoxy we chose cured faster, with no stickiness, but the refractive index changed as the epoxy yellowed. Turning the intensity down (voltage or distance), and increasing the cure time, removed the tackiness and eliminated the coloration of the epoxy. For what it's worth, with that epoxy (which was around $1000 per ounce), it was almost impossible to SEE the yellowing with your eyes - it was just critical to the transmitted light. I see no reason to slow down the cure with this epoxy for flies - just cure it longer and as high as possible.

And yes, I would recommend the Clear Cure Goo lamp as well.

That's my 2 cents, anyway.


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

After curing UV, I use a q tip lightly saturated with denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to wipe off the tacky residue and then a coat of polish.


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

Yakphisher said:


> After curing UV, I use a q tip lightly saturated with denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to wipe off the tacky residue and then a coat of polish.


Another thing you can do is give a light coat of a quick drying cement, I used Hard as Hull over Loon UV.

I've turned to Liquid Fusion and a drying wheel instead of UV. It dries fast enough, dries clear, isn't tacky like UV stuff, and costs pennies compared to CCG. I can get a large bottle of it at Joann Fabric locally for about $5 with a coupon (they always have coupons). I'm never in such a hurry tying flies that I can't take the time to throw a fly on the turner for a while and let the glue do it's thing. And with the drying wheel I can work in batches, doing about as many as I want at a time.


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## crkwader (Nov 7, 2008)

TheCream said:


> Another thing you can do is give a light coat of a quick drying cement, I used Hard as Hull over Loon UV.
> 
> I've turned to Liquid Fusion and a drying wheel instead of UV. It dries fast enough, dries clear, isn't tacky like UV stuff, and costs pennies compared to CCG. I can get a large bottle of it at Joann Fabric locally for about $5 with a coupon (they always have coupons). I'm never in such a hurry tying flies that I can't take the time to throw a fly on the turner for a while and let the glue do it's thing. And with the drying wheel I can work in batches, doing about as many as I want at a time.



I think I would be more inclined to do this if the on/off switch on my epoxy turner didn't die(which is why I made the jump to CCG) But that being said, I do also use the Hard as Hull over the CCG. it works wonders.


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## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

TheCream said:


> Another thing you can do is give a light coat of a quick drying cement, I used Hard as Hull over Loon UV.
> 
> I've turned to Liquid Fusion and a drying wheel instead of UV. It dries fast enough, dries clear, isn't tacky like UV stuff, and costs pennies compared to CCG. I can get a large bottle of it at Joann Fabric locally for about $5 with a coupon (they always have coupons). I'm never in such a hurry tying flies that I can't take the time to throw a fly on the turner for a while and let the glue do it's thing. And with the drying wheel I can work in batches, doing about as many as I want at a time.


I thought drying wheels cost around $65?


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## TheCream (Mar 19, 2009)

meathelmet said:


> I thought drying wheels cost around $65?


Got mine for $45 online. CCG is about $45/ounce (do the math, it comes in tiny syringes measured in ML), plus the cost of their curing light on top of that. I can get a 2 ounce bottle of LF for about $5. The wheel cost is essentially a wash with buying an ounce of CCG, and unlike buying CCG, I don't have to shell out $45/ounce every time I need more.


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## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

I am going to try this at $15 a bottle and lots of good reviews, he also sells 3 types of lights as well and there is no tackiness

At least that is what I read......

http://www.garyborger.com/2013/08/09/crystal-uv-coat/


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## Yakphisher (Jul 9, 2013)

You can make your own drying wheel on the cheap. I made 2 up over the years one on a HVAC damper control [email protected] and the other on a moving lawn ornament @7rpm. 

Liquid Fusion is good stuff that doesn't garner enough attention but should.

I had quite a few issue using to much LF to coat poppers only to bead up. Annoying as heck to see it. I also use a 2 part polymer resin that dries in 8hrs that has been my go to.


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## Rockyraccoon (Jun 19, 2012)

CCG's Hydro Epoxy dries tack free. Often times, I will use the CCG Thick to build up and then add a thin coat of Hydro to eliminate a tacky surface. As mentioned you can use a coat of lacquer or Sally's Hard as Nails.

I also use some of this guys stuff. It dries tack free and his set (lights, epoxys) is considerably cheaper than that of CCG. The light will also work with CCG epoxies. http://www.southeastflyfishingforum.com/forum/uv-resin-system-t42344.html


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## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

Rocky,

I just ordered his stuff but I hope I am home when it arrives since its supposed to be freezing and he warned me that is one thing his epoxy does not like.


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## Rockyraccoon (Jun 19, 2012)

I've been really happy with it....I didn't know about not letting it freeze. My fly tying room is in our sunroom.....and it's been cooooooold here in TN. Thanks for the tip. I hope yours doesn't freeze.


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## meathelmet (Aug 4, 2008)

Knoxeville? I lived there for a number of years, great area hiking, camping and fishing. Miss it and possibly coming down for spring break, its got to be warmer than Ohio at 2 degrees and tomorrow a wind chill of possible - 15


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## Rockyraccoon (Jun 19, 2012)

I've always felt very blessed in Knoxville. We have an abundance of lakes, rivers and mountain streams for all of us fishing nuts. We have miles and miles of mountains, trails and abundant wildlife. Not to mention our weather is typically seasonal and nice......usually! lol


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