# How much trolling motor & battery, for a canoe?



## Bowhunter57 (Feb 9, 2011)

I just purchased an Old Town Saranac 146 XT, canoe. It's 14' 6" long, weighs 79 lbs. and will be used for fishing, on flat water ONLY.

I'm thinking that more motor means more battery. I used to have a 17' aluminum canoe with a 23 lb. thrust motor that did pretty good. So, I'd guess that a 30 lb. or 40 lb. thrust should do the trick.

I'm open to suggestions and/or opinions from those with experiences.
Thank you, Bowhunter57


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## Wow (May 17, 2010)

NICE! BH57, Sweet Rig. I have the same ? . I'm building a side mount for my We'no'nah canoe. Congrats Buddy!.................................................................................................................


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## Sleprock (Dec 16, 2005)

is it plastic?

sounds close to my boat in size, is it like 43" wide

I have used 2 different motors on my canoe and like the higher thrust motor,

dont know how your gonna mount it but i put mine right in the middle and if you got two much weight in the back and turn it all the way up it will start to swamp, distribute the weight as much as possible, if your going on lakes i would go bigger as opposed to say the little miami river where you really don't want alot of dead weight, i dont bring tm on rivers any more.


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## Bowhunter57 (Feb 9, 2011)

Wow,
Thanks on the congrats. I'm holding off on the trolling motor, until I put this thing in the water a few times and see how it paddles around. I mean...after all, I spent $120 (minus a $50 rebate) on 2 new paddles and I might as well use them.  I may get a fish finder, instead.

There was no wind today, compared to yesterday, so I went back to Toledo and picked up my canoe. It rode back very well, but I took S.R. 65, instead of the I-75. Since it did so well, I may take a few higher speed roads in the future. 









Good hunting, Bowhunter57


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Congrats, my Allen County brutha! I saw that canoe at Gander Mountain this weekend and took a good long look at it, remembering that was the one you were looking at. I liked it very much. I think you're going to love it!

If I could, looking at how you're transporting it: 
A more secure way, and much better for your canoe, would be to run (2) tie downs around the middle of the caoe and through your car windows. Use this method as the primary way to secure your canoe.
Then use the fore and aft tie downs to just make sure the canoe can't "lift" off the car. You really don't want the end straps very tight as you don't want to "bend" the canoe.

If you only use the end straps, there will most certainly be a day in the summer when the caoe "bends" from the heat and the tension...for sure.
Through the wondows also will keep the canoe from going side to side.

Again man, SWEET Ride!! I'm jealous.


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## Wow (May 17, 2010)

Bubba's correct about a central tie down. The rear foam blocks are subject to fly away. I'd connect a tether from block to block or block to canoe, just to be safe. See ya on the water.--Tim..............................................................................................................................................................


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## Bowhunter57 (Feb 9, 2011)

There was a strap in the package of foam blocks, that is intended for a center tie-down. I may try it the next time I transport it and see how well it works. There can't be enough tie-downs, but there can be too much torque on the tie-down straps. 

I didn't have either end cinched down all that tight...just enough to keep it from sliding forewards or backwards. The foam blocks sit against the rain tracks in the roof and seem to disallow any side to side movement.

Thanks for the tips, guys!
Good hunting, Bowhunter57


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Here's the set up you're looking for. I've hauled alot of canoes and have seen it done well and poorly. 
Just like this except run your middle straps through the windows. 
Your canoe will thank you.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Here we go:


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## Bowhunter57 (Feb 9, 2011)

Bubbagon,
Like in your picture and without any end straps?

I don't know if I'd trust my canoe to ride in one spot without the end straps, to keep it from moving foreward or backward.

Good hunting, Bowhunter57


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

Through the windows, like the bottom pic. But also with the end straps, like the top pic.

The middle straps prevent forward/backward moving MUCH better than the end straps, believe it or not. The end straps are only there to prevent "lift" from the wind.


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## crittergitter (Jun 9, 2005)

Looks like a great canoe!


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## Bowhunter57 (Feb 9, 2011)

Thank you, for all the tips on strapping my new toy down to my car.

I've decided to pass on the trolling motor idea, for now. I registered my canoe and it was $20 for 3 years without a motor...$33 for 3 years with a motor. I need the exercise, have 2 brand new paddles, so I might as well put them to good use. 

Should I change my mind later, all I have to do is give the BMV another $13 and I'm good to go.

My latest project is building a canoe dolly, to transport my new prize, from my car to the water...where ever that may take me. When I get it finished, I'll have to post some pics.

Good hunting, Bowhunter57


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

FYI, I use my deer cart to transport my canoe.
If you have one, mine required minimal modifications.


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## crittergitter (Jun 9, 2005)

Bowhunter57 said:


> Thank you, for all the tips on strapping my new toy down to my car.
> 
> I've decided to pass on the trolling motor idea, for now. I registered my canoe and it was $20 for 3 years without a motor...$33 for 3 years with a motor. I need the exercise, have 2 brand new paddles, so I might as well put them to good use.
> 
> ...


I could be wrong, but I thought the extra was only for gas powered motorized boats. You shouldn't have to pay extra for a part-time electric motor on a canoe.


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

You might be wrong on that one, Critter. Not positive though.


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## crittergitter (Jun 9, 2005)

Bubbagon said:


> You might be wrong on that one, Critter. Not positive though.


Ok, I think you got it right. Here is what I found on ODNR website:

Alternative Registration Option for Manually Propelled (Hand-powered) Vessels
(ORC 1547.54)
An owner of a hand-powered vessel (for example: canoe, kayak, rowboat, racing shell, rowing scull, paddleboard, float tube, or inflatable watercraft) may choose to do either of the following:

1. Place numbers on the vessel, pay a lesser registration fee, and display a set of square tags; OR
2. Not number the vessel, pay a higher registration fee, and display a single rectangular tag.



The owner of a hand-powered canoe, rowboat (including racing shells and rowing sculls) or inflatable watercraft that is exempted from numbering shall securely affix the assigned rectangular tag to the vessel in one of the following manners:

* in the upper right corner of the transom;
* on a deck on the rear half of the vessel;
* on the outside below the port side gunnel; or
* on the inside of the vessel on the upper portion of the starboard side gunnel so that it is visible from the port side of the vessel.



*NOTE: Do not use this alternate registration method if there is a possibility of ever using a motor or sail with this vessel. This registration is issued and renewed through any Division of Watercraft office. (NOTE: Duplicates are only issued through the headquarters in Columbus.)*


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## Bubbagon (Mar 8, 2010)

I have to go in and update registration on 3 yaks today at the Div of Wat. I'll ask while I'm there.


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## PCBassBuster (Apr 19, 2011)

If you add ANY motor (electric trolling or gas powered engine) to a canoe there is an additional fee. Its prorated based on the amount of time left on your current registration.


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## PCBassBuster (Apr 19, 2011)

In just a minute I'll add the link for you....


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## PCBassBuster (Apr 19, 2011)

OK, here is the link...
http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/watercraft/WhatItCoststoRegisteraBoat/tabid/2775/Default.aspx


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