# '79 9.6hp sea king by wards starting problem.



## drew7997

So. I have as title states a 9.6hp 2cycle outboard. I am workingon it for my dad. I tried starting for first time in 10 years. Would only run on starting fluid. I then cleaned (bear withme as i dont know names) i took the top part cylindrical about 10" in diameter off. Underneath it there is one "bump out". It had some brown markings like rustish. The next piece i saw was the contact points that would line up with that. One was fine looked really clean. The other really rusty. The next thing i cleaned was these little metal ~1/64" in size. They were on a rocker of sorts that is in contact with the center spindle. These looked a bit dirty. I "cleaned" all three lightly with 220grit sandpaper. I put back together. Tried again. Only on starting fluid would it run. I pulled one plug. Looks good. But tested it using my snow blower and jumper cables. Lit up really bright. I brought it back. Used same jumper cable technique. No spark. Thoughts? When I put this away 10 years ago it worked great!

Thanks,
Drew

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## johnrude

do not keep using starting fluid continuously to start an outboard ! sounds like you removed the flywheel and cleaned the points.


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## drew7997

Thank you, i didnt start it but 5 times on ether. I didnt think that was too many. Flywheel sounds about right. 
One of my concerns is ( going to reference vehicle parts till i get photo) the "coil pack" contact that had heavy rust. Its never making contact on the flywheel as there were no clean areas. Either on the main contact point in the center of the coil or the "wings". Meanwhile the other coil contacts are darn near smooth. Any idea if its possible to move the coil? Ddod not look like it to me. I know. Pics... 

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## peple of the perch

Clean the carb and make sure you are getting spark on both cylinders.


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## drew7997

Thank you for the reply. PotP.
I still need to clean the carb. As mentioned, I do not have spark on #2 that I can visually see. It's getting cold out so probably won't deal too much with it till warmer weather prevails or the occasional 50 degree day.








In the above image I have listed in green the items that I have sanded then cleaned with alcohol. I have also identified 2 items in red that I need labeled to assist in the dialog going forward.

Below is the carb:








To confirm, I simply pull the two bolts on the side of the mounting flange, remove the fuel line, and then spray Carb cleaner all up in it? or do I need to disassemble it?









What is this item circled in green? What does it do? Why is it needed? 
I think it is a fuel diaphram used to assist in "pumping" fuel into the carb. Am I correct?


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## johnrude

1 is a coil 2 is your points ! the piece in the green circle is your fuel pump. your coils should be few thousandths from the flywheel in other words so they don't hit. and your points should be set on the high side of the cam and probably should be set around 20 thousandths. also make sure your flywheel magnet is clean from rust. i would not worry about the carb till you have spark on both cylinders and you try to run it first the way it is.


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## Dr J

Drew, check your condensers. They are the ones with the blue wires. Try reversing them and see if the good sparking side goes to the other side.


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## johnrude

ut oh the doctor has spoken !


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## drew7997

So. Unbolt blue wire. Unbolt two flange bolts and pull up?

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## Dr J

Yep. Take them both off and put them on the other side. Make sure you know which side is 'sparking' before you change them.


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## Lewis

Dont take this the wrong way please,but if you cant even identify basic components such as points,condensors or coils you probably should let someone more experienced work on this motor.
Have them show you how to replace and gap points,change a coil etc.


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## drew7997

Lewis,
Thank you for your input. But since you do not know me here is some background: I knew the process of how the parts work. I did not know what the proper title of the parts.
I have a very high mechanical skills. I work on family/ friends vehicles (includes cars, suvs, and jeeps) with mechanical repair/ upgrades. For example. Replacing cylinder heads, timing belts, set timing, replace half shafts, repair u joints, and the easy hub replacement. 
I also maintain all of my 2cycle engines such as chain saws, weedeaters, and others.
I also maintain my nitro powered r/c truck. (Carb settings are touchy on these day to day).
As you can see, I have no problem repairing items but thank you for your concern. Perhaps if others read thia in the future without the background, it will steer them in the correct direction. 

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## Uncle Paul

Drew-Have had lots of these apart over the years so Ill try to help and try to keep it simple. First the flywheel (the 10 inch thing) as long as you have it off give the magnets on the underside a quick brush to remove any loose rust you dont have to work too hard because as soon as you put it together it starts rusting again.#2 the coil packs(marked X14877c in the picture) are adjustable but if you have not removed them dont worry about them, they have a spec from the factory on how close they are to be from the installed flywheel but as long as they are not hitting the flywheel it wont be an issue.#3 the POINTS they are the slightly golden colored things located at the 1 and 3 oclock position both have two screws and two red and the blue wires attached (did you remove the points when you cleaned the contacts)either way you need the check the open point spec.How to check point opening, Locate the Cam in the picture its just to the right of the set of points you marked #2 Its mounted on the crankshaft with the keyway and it part # ends in 411c or something like that. Remove both spark plugs and Im thinking you know how to find Top Dead Center with a pencil and when you do the cam lobe will be at its high point and trying to open one of the sets of points- check the point gap opening at the very highest point of the cam lobe (dont have the spec but most are around the 30 thousand mark) set yours at say 25 thousand. On the point set marked #2 there are two screws one has a slot at the1-3 position that the one you use to adjust them along with the two aluminum nubs and the slot in the point plate located just to the left of the screw at the 10 oclock position. With the piston at TDC and the cam lobe at its highest point measure the point gap and if its not at the 25-30 thousand reading loosen both screws slightly and use a screwdriver wedged between the nubs and the slot in the point plate the adjust the gap to spec then tighten the screws then recheck the gap and adjust it necessary. When finished with the first set bring the other piston to TDC and repeat on the second set of points. At this point your ignition system will be close enough to start the engine after you put it back together. In pic #3 the part is the fuel pump and if the engine is any good rebuild it along with the carb gaskets and water pump but lets get it started first. In pic #2 on the right side of the carb is the fuel supply line from the fuel pump take the line off and plug it (We dont need it at this time)I have a quart bottle filled with a gas oil mix and a nipple and fuel line that I attach to the carb and as long as it is kept above the engine it will keep the carb filled so you can start the engine.Paul


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## RushCreekAngler

Cleaning the Carb - yes you need to take it apart - not the pump, but you need to get to every port and pinhole you can and clean. The 2cycle fuel-oil mix turns to a thick jell with age, and is a real PITA to clean out. Had to do this with my 73 Merc 7.5.hp (had not been run in 7 years). take the carb apart, clean all the ports. See that screw to the left of the Idle adjustment (the screw with the spring) - under that plug there more than likely be a port or idle tube that will need cleaned. If it has a bowel, take it off and clean out any holes/openings/ports you find - even if they look clean. You have to find all the ports. Look in the carb carefully on the side that mounts to the motor. Mine had 2 pinholes that feed gas during idle - both were plugged. put it back together, it ran, but would not idle, pulled it apart 2 more times before I finally got all the gunk out. Expect to tear it apart and clean at least 3 times (a Merc mechanic told me that) before you get all the crap out - it's that hard to get the old gelled fuel/oil/varnish out. Frequently the first cleaning or 2 won't get it all out but will soften it up so you can get it out later. and clean out your tank also. after running for a while with clean fuel (better use gas with no ethanol for that one to be safe) expect it to stop running - the stuck on gunk and varnish you did not get off in the first 3 cleaning (and you won't get it all off) will work loose and plug ports (happened to mine on the last trip of the season that I stared using it again). the best thing you can do is to find a diagram for the carb so you can find all the ports/jets you need to clean.

Not trying to sound like a smart you know what, just relating my experience in resurrecting my old reliable friend after not having a boat for several years. Found out a lot of the above by a few weeks of trial and error.


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## MassillonBuckeye

Rusty points is probably the reason for no spark and running on starter fluid most likely means starved for fuel/dirty carb. Probably work just fine after a good cleaning  Make sure you use plenty of carb cleaner and compressed air. Take a little piece of fine wire and clean out all the little passages. Make sure your float is set right and your needle is working right(plugging the seat and not sticking when opened). Take pictures or video when you are taking it apart and don't lose anything so you can get it all back together proper. There may be a plastic piece in the throat of the carb so be careful with it. Like he said, you may end up needing to clean it a few times. You can also do ultrasonic cleaning like those jewelry setups(preferably not the wifes) or a carb soak as well. Check entire fuel system for gunk/dirt/varnish. Have fun!


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## RushCreekAngler

MassillonBuckeye said:


> There may be a plastic piece in the throat of the carb so be careful with it.


that's the venturi - 
Found that out the hard way - I removed a part to clean it (Don't know what it was called, but it's a tube that goes into the venturi) - I did not realize that the venturi was not attached but just riding in a slot by 2 tabs, and broke off one of the mounting tabs when re-installing the tube. Of course, Mercury no longer makes this part. I finally found one on the net from a dealer that keeps a list of NLA parts he has in stock. Kind of hard to believe I could lose the entire outboard due to a $5.00 piece of plastic..


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## drew7997

Thanks all. I have not had a chance to tear onto it again. Too many higher priority items to complete. However I will be using all of these recommended options. 
Keep them coming!

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## johnrude

if you would like to you can bring it to my place and we can look at the motor. i have never worked on this type of motor but we can give it a try.


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## Dr J

Pulled this off marineengine.com:

The 9.6 horse model was relatively short lived - only produced in the 1970-73 model years (inclusive) by Chrysler for Montgomery Wards. 

I am unfamiliar with this model, however, if it is air-cooled then you can mix at 24:1 (regular unleaded and 2 cycle engine oil such as used with lawnmowers/chainsaws - not Marine oil). 

If water cooled the it should be 50:1 as per most outboards. 

Chrysler is long out of business, however, there is a website www.discount-marine-parts.com that caters to old/discontinued outboards and used to be a Chrysler dealer - so have decent stock and expertise with this particular model...."

Hope this helps. Let us know how it shakes out.


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