# Auger blades



## yonderfishin (Apr 9, 2006)

Im looking for a place to get replacment blades for my mora 8" hand auger and as cheap as possible , and I stress the word "cheap" , anybody have any suggestions ? My blades are a little rusty and not what they used to be after 3 years and take forever to chew through the ice.


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## DaleM (Apr 5, 2004)

I saw them at Gander yesterday. I think they were $19.99. that's cheaper than you can order them on line.


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## keepinitreel (Apr 11, 2004)

Last year I had a heck of a time cutting through the ice. After doing some research, I used a knife sharpening rod on my old blades,went over them a few times and now the blades cut fine.

I ordered $$ a extra set just in case but I had difficulty finding 7" blades at local shops.


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## BrianSipe17 (Aug 5, 2006)

$30 at Fin Feather Fur for originals. I think the Eskimo brand (Chinese) blades will fit the mora and are $10 cheaper... but not worth the savings


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## McMish (Mar 23, 2009)

There 19.99-24.99
If you find them at that $5 range there as cheap as you will get.
Including online


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## DaleM (Apr 5, 2004)

The blades at Gander are MORA blades, not after market brands. You'll be hard pressed to find them cheaper.


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## yknotfrank (Apr 10, 2004)

I have a new set still in the box for a Mora 8". Still in the shrink plastic. Says 8" MD-8B
200 mm.

I loaned my auger out and forgot who I loaned it to.

$15 plus shipping

Frank


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## yonderfishin (Apr 9, 2006)

yknotfrank said:


> I have a new set still in the box for a Mora 8". Still in the shrink plastic. Says 8" MD-8B
> 200 mm.
> 
> I loaned my auger out and forgot who I loaned it to.
> ...


Thanks for the offer frank but I think I found the exact blades at Dunhams for $19. If they are still there when I get back I may as well pay 19 and get them instantly.


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## Bonecrusher (Aug 7, 2010)

If you ever get to Alum they have them for 14.99 at Cheshire Market


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## yonderfishin (Apr 9, 2006)

I still havent bought any new ones since I am well , just "cheap" by nature , and have a hard time justifying any spending on myself given my lack of funds in the first place. Anybody in the findlay area that will sharpen the current blades for less than $19 ?


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## Steelhead Fever (Dec 31, 2009)

causeway b&t has them...I just got them out there....


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## fish master (Dec 24, 2005)

Good tip for your auger, every year at the end of the season i spray pam or wd40 on the blades not a single rust spot on them dont slam the blades on the ice,dont reopen a hole just drill next to it. dont try to cut thru paper or any objects other then ice, always put the guard on at the end of the day. if someone asks to borrow your auger just ask them nicely where they would like the hole to be drilled. thats what iv done the last 3 years and my blades are nice and sharp, they almost cut my boot in half. ~fm~


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## yonderfishin (Apr 9, 2006)

I ran a knife sharpener over the old blades and thought I polished the edge good enough to work but when I got out on the reservoir today the auger wouldnt even start into the ice. I went and bought the set of blades at Dunhams Ive been looking at and they work great. Thanks for all the tips guys. Im gonna make sure I spray the blades down with WD40 after every use , maybe that will keep them around a little longer.


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## Steelhead Fever (Dec 31, 2009)

thanks for the tips fm..


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## Eye'Eye'Captain (Apr 7, 2006)

I successfully "Honed" my Strikemaster 6" blades. They were a little rusty and could still cut a hole but I found I was pushing down a lot on the hand powered auger. To ease my mind on this project, I first bought a new set of blades for $19.99 at Gander in case I ruined my original set trying to sharpen them. I say "Honed" because I used extremely fine stones as to not change the angle of the blade nor alter the curve. The way the "Lansky" pivots off the blade holder in a radius I was able to sharpen the entire curved edge.

Heres how I did it. Using my dad's "Lansky" Sharpening Kit. I first mounted the auger blade in the blade holder with the bevel up. Centered, but way forward toward the cutting edge, Important, to match angle. Then I picked out the 2nd to the finest stone and mounted the guide rod on it. Then I oiled the stone with the lubricant. Then I put the guide rod in the outermost hole of the blade holder. (This is important) I then laid the stone on the blade and held the whole rig up toward a light bulb to see and adjust things so that I was "Honing" the blade at almost the same angle as factory. Just a hair .001 steeper of an angle. I held the rig to the light and made very light diagonal strokes down off the curved edge of the blade in a motion similar to playing a violin. After about 30 strokes I switched to the finest stone in the set and mounted the guide rod, oiled the stone and inserted the guide rod into the same outermost hole in the blade holder. This stone is very slick, it does not appear to have any grit, yet it polishes the blade to razor sharpness. I also made about 30 strokes with the finest stone. Then I removed the blade from the blade holder. Now I flattened the back of the blade to remove any micro burr I made while sharpening the face. I held the finest stone in my right hand, stone up. I held the blade in my left hand flat side down. Set the blade on the stone and "Felt it lay dead flat on the stone." I then made small circular rubbing motions with the blade on the stone. When it went from gritty to slick, about 10 seconds I stopped. Then I (repeated the process exactly) for the other blade. That's it. I was pretty sure right away I was successful because #1 I did not Heat the blade grinding on it and #2 I got sliced like a paper cut from one without even realizing it.

I tested the sharpened blades on my neighbors pond and they worked great. I'll see how long they last at Moggie Saturday.


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