# reloading 45\70 government



## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

thinking about starting to reload my 45\70 rounds have been reloading 9mm\45\380 on my Dillon SDB I know I cant use this so im thinking about getting a single stage press my gun shoots the hornady 325gr leverevoloions very well so id like to get as close to them as I can anyone have data n this or any tips to start with?


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

I have loaded 45/70 for years, different rifles require different loads. What is your rifle? I have a old Marlin 95
from 70. I have shot the Leverlutions, they shot well, but I got better performance out of 300gr XTP bullet
and 50.5 gr of IMR-3031 / Win large rifle primers. This is stiff load, should only be used in Marlin or Ruger
rifles. Not recommended for break open rifles. The 300XTP is cheaper than flex tip bullets. I shoot mine a lot
fooling around, for this I use 322gr hard cast HP. If you are just going to use it to deer hunt the cost of bullets
doesn't make a difference. Most all factory 45/70 ammo is loaded down to make it safe in any old rifle that
may be floating around, for liability purposes. Most manuals list loads for the various models of 45/70 rifles
separately. Make sure you match your rifle to the loads safe in it. 45/70 is easy to load, just watch you crimp
and you OAL and you will be fine.


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## FAB (May 26, 2013)

deerhunter said:


> thinking about starting to reload my 45\70 rounds have been reloading 9mm\45\380 on my Dillon SDB I know I cant use this so im thinking about getting a single stage press my gun shoots the hornady 325gr leverevoloions very well so id like to get as close to them as I can anyone have data n this or any tips to start with?


Do a little research on the Hornady's they are loaded in a shorter case and are not reloadable with different bullets to maintain the overall case length. They are reloadable but only in the same configuration as factory. So I'm told.


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

This is true, Hornady Leverlutions are a shorter case. This is for the OAL of the Flex bullet. But you can load any
bullet in this case. But not visa versa.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

I have the marlin 1895


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

You are in good shape, the Marlin will handle the heavy loads. The Hornady cases will be fine for any bullet you
pick. Any bullet for 45/70 is overkill on deer, so you can pick what you want. 45/70 Marlins are not finicky on
bullet weight. Except 300g is about as light as accurate, I don't think you can buy factory bullets lighter any way.
In Marlin biggest bullet I have used was Barnes 410g. Expensive and not necessary, not to mention recoil. I use
300gr because it is the "flattest" shooting load for 45/70. The only thing you have to watch, with all Marlin lever
actions is your OAL. They are not forgiving, you will get the famous Marlin jam, and have to drop lever out of 
rifle to clear it.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

Thanks


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## eyecatchum2 (Mar 30, 2010)

There are several companies that make 250 & 265 gr bullets for 45-70 (.458")


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

Where do you guys buy your bullets from online ?


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

If I do buy any on line I buy from Midway USA. Then if only on sale, enough to justify shipping.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

Im I gonna need a case trimmer?


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

You should have a case trimmer, but straight LV cases like 45/70 don't "grow" near as much as bottle necks.
If you are using Hornady brass it would take a lot of loads to grow it to spec. I take a fine cut, about every 6 or
7 loadings. Just to square the case mouth, from being crimped that many times. When inspecting cases if I see
a crack developing at mouth, I trim it , to prevent the crack from continuing. I put these aside and use them in
single shots. Cases are different, Hornady, Win, Federal give you the best case life, Rem is worst. The harder
the brass, least copper content, the shorter the case life. Starline is suppose to be good, but I have never used
It. There are many ammo companies now, but they don't make their own brass. They buy it off the bigger 
companies.


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## 22-250 killer (Oct 18, 2007)

If you reload the leverevolution cases use Hornady dies. 43 grains of imr 4198 works great for me.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

What am I doing wrong using leverevolution cases with 300 gr HP/FN Pro-Hunter and when I seat and crimp it deformed the top of the case and if I back off the crimp I can push the bullet in the case ?


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

deerhunter said:


> View attachment 227284
> View attachment 227285
> What am I doing wrong using leverevolution cases with 300 gr HP/FN Pro-Hunter and when I seat and crimp it deformed the top of the case and if I back off the crimp I can push the bullet in the case ?


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

I think I figured it out I'm using a lee factory crimp and using the leverevolutin brass is to short if I put the case on top of case plate it crimps it perfectly


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

Are you out of thread to adjust die down? I don't know make of your dies/ press, you may have to use a loc
nut that is "thinner" to give you enough thread to adjust down the little you need to crimp the short Hornady
cases. In certain situations I have had to remove the loc-nut and bottom die to get the down travel I needed.
In these cases I usually seat bullets first, remove seating stem, and crimp as a separate step. If you can't bottom
or lock position of the die with loc-nut, I put witness mark on die and top of press. Use my left hand on die to
make sure it doesn't travel, while visually watching marks, as I run cartridge in to crimp bullet.
In your case it looks to me that you have seating stem set out of sinc with crimp shoulder.


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## Uncle Paul (Jul 10, 2004)

Drm50 said:


> Are you out of thread to adjust die down? I don't know make of your dies/ press, you may have to use a loc
> nut that is "thinner" to give you enough thread to adjust down the little you need to crimp the short Hornady
> cases. In certain situations I have had to remove the loc-nut and bottom die to get the down travel I needed.
> In these cases I usually seat bullets first, remove seating stem, and crimp as a separate step. If you can't bottom
> ...


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## Uncle Paul (Jul 10, 2004)

Deerhunter I’m like Drm50 I don’t seat the bullet and crimp in the same die at the same time but unlike him I use two different dies to do the job. All of my pistol and rifle die sets have a separate seating and crimping dies and my progressive press has plenty of stations to do it this way. Before I got it when I was reloading on a single stage I would do it like Drm50 does


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

Thanks guys I got a factory crimp from lee work better for me 
Using IMR4198 starting at 43.7 and gonna work my way up


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

I load all rifle ammo on single stage press. I am out for accuracy and have always favored SS press for this.
When turret presses first became popular they had a bad rep. I have several presses but only use progressive
on handgun cartridges. Rifle cartridges I use trickler and balance beam scale on each one, handgun I drop
charges and wiegh every 10th one. There is nothing wrong with progressive presses of recent manufacture,
I'm just old school on this, besides anything "progressive" makes me cringe.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

Yes I went with a lee single stage for the 45/70 I figured I'm only gonna load 40 to 50 rounds at a time weighing out every load ti make sure the same will see how it goes at the range


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

As expensive as reloading equipment is today, a guy should kind of buy according to his needs. A single stage
press will do most guys well, for hunting and occasional target and plinking. If you are involved in a sport that
requires a lot of ammo, a progressive outfit makes more sense. On line and at shows used loading equipment
is still priced high. I keep my eyes open at yard sales, estate sales, Flea markets, ect.- good deals can be found.
I usually don't go through whole loading procedure at same sitting anyway. When I get about 100 empties, I will
Deprimed and polish, then clean primer pockets & Size, trim if needed, then when needed I load them. Loading
to me is part of the hobby, to some it's just manufacturing ammo.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

how do you tell if you have the right amount of crimp or to much ?


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## Drm50 (Dec 26, 2014)

That's kind of a hard question to answer. With the 45/70 to be used in a tubular magazine and jacketed bullets
you need a firm crimp. If you over crimp the case is going to deform. Maybe to the extent it won't chamber. The
case will bulge behind crimp. If crimp is to light bullet will back into case from recoil or magazine spring tension.
Once you start crimping you will develope a "feel" for the crimp. If you are over crimping there will be resistance
then right at end of the stroke it will suddenly quit. Done correctly it has even resistance all the way, and you
will feel the crimp. Like I said it is hard to explain by text. You have to experiment a little to get the hang of it.
When loading cast lead bullets the buildup of lube and shaved lead on crimping shoulder can cause problems.
You need to keep the die clean for uniform crimp. If crimp is not uniform accurracy can suffer.


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## deerhunter (Apr 9, 2004)

thanks for all your help


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