# What line for trolling



## Coot (Jan 27, 2006)

On the two hour drive down to the muskie show today we discussed what line to use when trolling for muskies.

Opinions ?


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## B.A.Muskie (Aug 19, 2007)

80 pound test tuff line


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## Muskyman (Jan 30, 2005)

80 Pound Cortland Spectron.


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## Blue Pike (Apr 24, 2004)

80 pound Power-Pro

Well Coot, we all have one thing in common, 80 pound braid.


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## MadMac (May 2, 2005)

65# PowerPro. I had to be the odd ball.


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## crittergitter (Jun 9, 2005)

I like 80 lb for trolling. You could go higher in braid. The key is line diameter. You don't want your baits running 20 feet down(usually). So the larger diameter line is the way to go. I would not use less than 80 in braid. Some guys still like to use heavy mono like 30 lb because it has a bit of stetch to it. 

However, if you adjust your drag accordingly with braid then you should be fine.

CG


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## Coot (Jan 27, 2006)

Our discussion ended up focusing on the need for some stretch when a muskie hits. Does braid offer enough "give" on the initial strike ?

Anyone ever have a rod ripped out of the holder while trolling with braid ?


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## MikeC (Jun 26, 2005)

25-3O pound Cortland Musky Mono with an invisi-leader and a very light drag, just enough that the clicker ticks every once in awhile. I throw with braid though.

MikeC


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## Bester (Dec 29, 2007)

I troll 60 lbs mono with an 80 lbs leader. I've never lost on due to a line failure.


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## Muskyman (Jan 30, 2005)

Coot, I would recomend Downeast Rodholders. The plastic ones have been known to break. It is hard to get the rod out them sometimes, but the Downeast are worth the money. Unlike MikeC, I don't keep my drag loose enough to hear the clicker, I still keep it fairy loose though.


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## esoxhunter (Apr 7, 2004)

I use 65lb Power Pro too.


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## JIG (Nov 2, 2004)

This year Im planing on sticking too the 40/10 stren braid. To many times youll see you want to stop and throw. Ill be adding a 4ft 40# mono leader on clearer water. Braid and steel leaders can result in fewer strikes in certain water conditions. It can make the diff in a fish and no fish.


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## MadMac (May 2, 2005)

Coot said:


> Our discussion ended up focusing on the need for some stretch when a muskie hits. Does braid offer enough "give" on the initial strike ?
> 
> Anyone ever have a rod ripped out of the holder while trolling with braid ?


Like Crittergitter said, you have to set your drag accordingly. I would think mono would give them more time to react where the braid would pull the lure and hooks right away. Unless it's REALLY BIG. lol I remember some guys here on the Erie forum stating they thought the stretch of mono helped with hook ups. I just don't see it. The key is the drag setting for running braid.


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## vc1111 (Apr 13, 2004)

I use 65 lb Power Pro on all my rods.

As to the question of line stretch...in my opinion, for muskies you want only limited give from the line and rod during the strike. Basically, you want no stretch or "give" until the hooks are set, then you want the drag to slip.

Unlike other species, muskies and northerns have a boney mouth. Getting a hook set while trolling and casting can be tough at times even with zero stretch line, depending on where the hooks contact the inside of the muskie's mouth. 

Of course, setting the drag properly is also important. Once the hook set is achieved, too much leverage from having the drag too tight could allow the fish to get enough leverage to work the hooks loose. 

I'm sure there are other ways and other types of line/leader combinations to get the job done too, but that's my two cents, for what its worth.


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## MuskieJim (Apr 11, 2007)

We troll with either 30 pound Cortland Musky Mono, or 30 pound Fireline. I find that trolling with the larger braids makes it more difficult to reach desired depths. Always use 80 pound powerpro for casting though. Lets be honest, anything works, just gotta put the lures in front of them. 

As for the drag setting, we always set the drag just tight enough to keep it from clicking. IMO, when a musky hits a trolled lure, he's either already hooked or getting off. We rarely have rips with no hook up, but when we do, I believe it was something the musky did, not the other way around.


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## Muskie_Guy (Mar 14, 2007)

80# powerpro with a flourocarbon leader


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## crittergitter (Jun 9, 2005)

Coot, I forgot you also asked about rod holders. One of the other guys recommended Down East rod holders. I will second this. I have heard of plastic scottys getting snapped off and that would be an expesive lesson. The Down East holders are metal and relatively easy to get the rod in and out of. In my opinion they are a must have for musky trolling.

CG


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## esoxhunter (Apr 7, 2004)

Down East all the way! Look at any musky boat in Ohio. Guaranteed your will see the same rod holders. I have 5 of them and will never buy anything else.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

A lot of people are partial in this area, however, don't make a mistake on your line because it could be one of the most important factors in you muskie catching success!

If you're asking about brands, OK. There are a lot of good ones out there. Mason Tiger Braid happens to be my favorite super braid and Cortland Musky Master is my favorite Dacron. Tuff Line, Andes, Power Pro, Spiderwire Stealth, Sufix, etc. are all good.

Now the important thing that a lot of guys are failing to add. What line to use in what application. I literally have a dozen trolling set-ups that contain various line types and thicknesses for various bodies of water that I may be fishing. If I want to troll shallower water and keep my baits above the weeds, I'll run Cortland Musky Master at 45 lb. which has a pretty large diameter and keeps my baits up better. If I'm fishing deeper and really want to get those baits down, I'll use 50lb. Tiger braid and you wouldn't believe the difference and without sacrificing letting out 300yds. of line! (Don't forget to adjust your drag accordingly for superbraid...you WILL need to) For casting, I use Tiger Braid in 50lb. as well...the low stretch factor makes all the difference while casting for me, especially jerkbaits. I will also run lead core or steel line if I'm fishing real real deep and want to get my baits down 40 to 50 feet or better. Line is a touchy subject and I don't think there is one particular line out there that can be used in all applications...At least not for me.

As far as rod holders go....Fish-On are the best IMO...I have used Down East in the past as well, but they are not as easily adjustable "on the fly" as the Fish-Ons mounted on a rail. I have also had the Down East wear through the cork on my rods in time.... Been using Fish-Ons for 20 years and NEVER had one break! Scottys are junk....brittle plastic unlike the Fish-Ons.

Finally, I'd say select your line in accordance with how you will primarily be fishing most. Then go from there....Hope this helps and Tight Lines!


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## fffffish (Apr 6, 2004)

I am still old school I use 30# Berkley XT with a 45# hand made twist weld leader
I cut back and retie 10 feet before I start fishing each trip

Oh yes the plastic rod holders will break even using 30# line had it happen to me in Canada one year when it gets close to freezing all plastic gets brittle


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## luredaddy (May 25, 2004)

Rick and I are on the same page. I use 30# XT and 45# test stranded steel leaders. I started tying the double improved clinch knot last year, I like it. I leave the three line tags about an inch long, helps with weeds. I retie every morning and after every fish. I run the line through my fingers whenever cleaning the line. If I feel the least amount of abrasion I retie. If you are fishing West Branch or any lake with Zebras, run at least a three foot steel leader, especially if you are pounding your baits into humps , rocks, etc...I would not feel comfortable using a plastic holder, Downeasts are my choice, it can get exciting though when you struggle to get the rod out of the holder!!!! It happens.
John


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## Bester (Dec 29, 2007)

I've had one plastic holder break on me. I didn't lose the gear and there was a 29lbs Musky on the other end. It was my fault for not having the drag set properly.


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## ShutUpNFish (Apr 17, 2007)

Thats exactly it....the drag....If anyone breaks a Fish-On due to a fish strike, your drag is set too tight. Trust me, it will happen to a Down East too. I've seen it happen....to each his own. My biggest thing is that when I come up on weeds or a hump, I can quickly just push down on the butt of the rod and my tip is straight up in the air bringing my lure up without ever having to remove the rod from the holder. I also think that they are way easier to remove from the holder when you get a fish on, especially when you learn how to remove the rod with tension on it. I do it with one hand. Again, to each his own...Tight Lines.


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