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Quick tips...take em all, but leave one of your own too

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Old 02-27-2008, 09:21 PM   #41
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After installing the lip into the bait, I like to see the Devcon protruding over the lip about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. The bit of overlap onto the lip adds a bit of strength and provides a great seal around the lip slot.

I also like to hit the exposed excess Devcon 2 ton epoxy with the heat gun to get the bubbles out of it. Also by heating it a bit, you can make it run into any area where it is a bit absent (along that point where the lip meets the lip slot) by simply tilting the bait so that the Devcon runs to the area which needs a bit of Devcon to fill it in nicely.
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:52 AM   #42
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you can balance/fine tune your lure by using this hook on either a front or back hook. the smaller the lure, the more this applies.
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:54 AM   #43
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sure set hooks. You could also put them on both front and back/all hooks to add a tad bit more weight. haven't experimented too much yet other than adding one to the back of my hawgnose/poes hybrid so it floated more level at rest. haven't fished it yet though.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:54 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goolies View Post
You can pick up an assortment bag of these half round beads at your local craft store for a couple of bucks. Remove a portion of the reflective backing and paint in a pupil on the back of the bead. Attach eye to lure as you would with any 3D eye.
I use those too and just use a black sharpie on the top surface to make the pupil. Depending on the angle you are looking into the eye, you can sometimes see 2 pupils due to the reflection off the back surface (pretty cool). I'll try your technique too now that I read it, just need to be careful with the xacto and not cut myself since the eyes I use are pretty small. Or is there a better way to remove the reflective surface for the pupil? Maybe use a drill and fill the eye in a little with Testor's paint to get more of a 3-d pupil?
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:02 PM   #45
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for mixing up small batches of devcon two ton epoxy (with optional glitter), the bottom of pop or beer cans works well. I usually just mix up enough for 1 bass crank but have done two with one batch before. Probably the oldest trick in the book as I heard it from someone else but it works great.
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:28 PM   #46
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Tip: I use shower curtain hangers on the nose and tail screw eye thruout the whole process of making the lure. Great for easy handling, esp during the epoxy, primer, paint steps. When done with a lure, I keep the same screweye with the shower curtain hanger and add it to the next bait. This way, primer and paint build up won't add the extra step of having to clean off the sreweyes of paint, debris and giving the possibility of ruining a great paint job. Final step of the lure process....add nice pretty screweyes that haven't been touched yet!
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:38 PM   #47
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Oh, another tip......use a plastic putty spreader/applier you get from the hardware store as a stencil for the black on the firetiger pattterns, bars on the perch patterns, etc. You can get 'em at any hardware location, they're easy to store, they're cheap, they're easy to cut with a knife to make the pattern.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:43 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc1111 View Post
Let's dedicate a thread to any and all kinds of tips and shortcuts...everything from woodworking, painting, securing supplies, finishing baits, cutting and installing lips, eye screws, you name it.

I'll kick it off...

I always stop at Walmart in the photo department and ask them for all the empty film cannisters they have. They usually have at least 30 to 50, sometimes more and all they do is pitch them out. So...recycle them through your lurebuilding...

Film cannisters
are great for mixing water-based paints to create custom colors, and they work just fine for enamels and lacquers too. Don't forget to get the lids with them and you can store your mixed paint for waaaaaay longer than you'd think if you just cover the film cannister when you're done.
Film Cannisters, well I called a local photo store and they gave me a bag of them for free. I am keeping my harness making beads in them.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:42 AM   #49
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Default Instant, Heavy Duty SS Hangers And Ties.

Here's how I make hangers and ties from SS welding rods
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I find the Rods stiffer than the SS wire that comes on rolls and is available at any welding supply store.
1. I put a mark on my round nose pliers for consistency and bend a loop, there. Then I "overbend the wire to make a more circular loop. Tackle Making
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2. Cut the wire evenly.
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3. Place the ends of the wire in a vise grip.
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4.Clamp the loop with a flat pliers.
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5. Twist, counter clockwise. Now you're done!

6. Here are a couple, one .045" and the other .062
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Just drill a hole large enough to accept the twisted wire, fill it with 5 min epoxy, wipe the overflow with alcohol and you'll have a bullet proof tie or eye.
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Old 01-16-2009, 07:43 PM   #50
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Excellent tutorial, Husky!
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:51 PM   #51
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Default Twisted Wire Hook Hangers & Line Ties

I twist .041 diameter stainless steel wire to use for my hook hangers, line ties, and joining body segments of jointed lures. I seen Husky's tutorial so I thought I would show another method of twisting the wire.


I start by bending the stainless wire into a u-shape and slightly flairing out the ends as shown.
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I then squeeze the ends of the wire together and and grip with a pair of vise-grips.
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I have a homemade hook-shaped twisting bit. This bit is about 1/8" diameter.
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I put the twisting bit in my cordless drill.
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I then insert the twisting bit into the loop in the stainless wire.
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Holding the vise grips in one hand and the drill in the other, I run the drill and twist the wire until the loop in the wire tightens down around the twisting bit.
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Here's the result.
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Snip off the frayed end of the twisted wire when done and you have a nice homemade screw thread.

I make my twisted wire thread about 1-1/8" long under the eye. I pre-drill 1/16" diameter holes in the lure body for my twisted wire. I use Gorilla glue for securing my twisted wire because I like how it expands to fill the gaps in the thread. I soak the pre-drilled 1/16" diameter holes with water. Dip the twisted wire in glue and use needle nose pliers to thread the wire into the body. Wipe off the excess glue.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:15 PM   #52
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Default Sanding Stick.

Cut a strip of Norton's Sandpaper (11" long) the width of a Paint stirrer, the kind they give you when you buy paint. Spray the back of the Sandpaper with adhesive and affix it (bend it in the middle) to the stirrer. You'll either have the worlds largest emory board or one heck of a useful sanding stick which is quite maneuverable and very effective.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:31 PM   #53
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Default to make your foiled finish even shinier

this doesn't apply as much to those building bigger baits and using an air brush since the air brush has much finer control. But I am building bass baits and using rattle cans and there is much more overspray than I thought (not easily seen with the naked eye). I've also masked with masking tape but find I like the following better.

After you've painted just use a paper towel (the blue "shop paper towels" seem to work well) and put some "epoxy/laquer thinner" on in and wipe the sides of your bait(fold the paper towel, etc). Be careful though, it is easy to overdo it and you can ruin a "fade" if that is what you desire. But it definitely can add shine to foiled finishes. Also different HVAC tapes have different shininesses to begin with so shop around. Wally world has the shiniest I've seen (shinier than any of the stuff I saw at Lowes).

Q tips would also probably work quite well but I haven't tried them yet.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:27 PM   #54
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Recycle your netting materials:

If you have a certain type of netting that you favor and is hard to find, try using it repeatedly by occasionally running it through the clothes washing machine. Often the paint is completely removed and the material is ready to use again. This works best with cotton netting, which is the stuff I favor over the nylon.
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:27 PM   #55
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when applying 2-dimensional (i.e. flat peel-and-stick)eyes to smaller crankbaits (bass size cranks or smaller, in other words it's the radius of curvature which matters most here) on a curved area it may be helpful to bend the eye (which may put a small "kink" in it depending on the material/where you got them from) prior to sticking it on and applying. I got my eyes (3/16" and 1/8") from Gander and they are not very adhesive. What happens is I put them on and they are flush with the bait and look dandy. But when I put my first layer of epoxy (which I dillute with epoxy thinner which doesn't help matters since it dissolves the adhesive) one side of the eye lifts up. Just now I took off problem eye, "bent" a new one and put it on. Seems to work great(knock on wood). I have not tried the process from the beginning but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Also eyes from other sources may be higher quality with better adhesive so this may not be necessary with all 2-d eyes. Good luck.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:04 AM   #56
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You might also consider using a forstner bit the same size as the eye you're sticking on. You could simply flatten the area with the forstner bit priod to applyin the eye.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:32 PM   #57
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If you use a gravity fed airbrush (I think most do)....try to find this hand sanitizer brand (the bigger bottle). I was given this brand at work by our employer and when the bottle is emptied, they make an excellend spray bottle to clean/rinse out your airbrush cup....I keep one with cleaner and one with plain water while working and they spray a heavy powerful mist which does a nice job rinsing out those cups in between color changes.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:33 AM   #58
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@Shutupnfish - the photo doesn't show up or link doesn't work.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:24 PM   #59
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Back in the day, I always had a problem as to what to do with baits during painting stages. I didn't have a convenient way of hanging them close to my paint booth. I found this method a few years ago and it works really well. Thought you guys might like to see this method.

I bought a bunch of small vice grip pliers ( the cheap ones). Then I installed a bunch of cup hooks found at any hardware store. Then turn the hooks sideways. The screw in the vice grips fits perfectly in the hook and the top of the screw keeps them in. You can see better in the picture.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:04 AM   #60
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Excellent tip, rj. I'm going to have to try that one.

Also, I love the pattern along the back of that bait on the right in your picture.
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