Airbrush 101...getting started. - Page 2

alighthouse · 06-25-2010, 05:38 AM

I know might sound crazy if I have a Iwata with a 5mm needle are the needles interchangeable to use different sizes for same brush?

eatwhatyoukeep · 10-30-2011, 01:36 PM

I have a question about the minimum colors of paint I need to get started. Earlier vc1111 had said that I could buy a limited number of colors and mix them to get started. Besides basecoat can I start with createx pearl red, blue, yellow, silver, gold and black and mix them? I have read multiple comments about mixing pearls so I wanted to be sure. Can you make a good firetiger or clown pattern with pearls or do you need opaque paints when doing a pattern like that.

All Eyes · 03-07-2012, 01:59 PM

This thread is like gold to me right now. Getting ready to dive into the airbrushing business and have all this great info at my fingertips.

crappie1962 · 12-01-2012, 12:20 PM

Keep it coming guys, i'm like a sponge trying to soak up all this info! Can't wait till Christmas to put my guns together. Going to buy my paints before that for I can start to tinkering.

donkey · 12-02-2012, 02:02 PM

"I know might sound crazy if I have a Iwata with a 5mm needle are the needles interchangeable to use different sizes for same brush?"

Only if u have the matching orifice tip.The female receiver of the needle.

turkeyt · 01-30-2013, 07:55 PM

Was painting a bait and the brush popped out of the stand after me kicking the hose and dropped to my carpet in my room. No problem though, wrong. I took it apart after it started spittin paint and the needle had just a minute bend only seen with the aid of a magifying glass. No problem i will just get a new needle. wrong. The nozzle split at the end too and thats a whole nother problem. Mine is a Iwata HP-C. Anyone have a nozzle laying around for any of these. A,B,C,SB are the same. Thanks

slushfish · 03-23-2013, 07:55 AM

I started painting last year before I had a clue. Mainly painting blades. Everything was trial by fire. It actually worked out really well. The only big problem I have is clear coat. What is the best, easiest way? I tried Devon epoxy w/terrible results. Airbrush clear wasn't very tough. Best I could do was several coats of clear enamal Rustoleum spray. There must be a better way. Thanks for all the tips.
Slushfish

K gonefishin · 03-23-2013, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slushfish

I started painting last year before I had a clue. Mainly painting blades. Everything was trial by fire. It actually worked out really well. The only big problem I have is clear coat. What is the best, easiest way? I tried Devon epoxy w/terrible results. Airbrush clear wasn't very tough. Best I could do was several coats of clear enamal Rustoleum spray. There must be a better way. Thanks for all the tips.
Slushfish

What devcon did you use? It's probably the easiest and most foolproof clear to work with. What was your process? I'm guessing you either used the wrong devcon or didn't mix it enough.

slushfish · 03-23-2013, 04:12 PM

I used Devon high strength two ton epoxy-all purpose. I mixed it per directions in a plastic cup. Used an acid brush to "paint" it on 6 or 8 blades and it literally started smoking! Could have been the plastic cup, not sure, but somewhere there was a chemical reaction that was not good. The next time someone told me to mix in a couple drops of denatured alcohol and that did work better but still was very thick. I haven't given up on it but need more specifics before I tried it again. Kind of bumbs me out because I have at least 100 really nice blades I can't use till I put a good topcoat on. Any help would be MUCH appreciated. After all spinner season Is just around the corner. Slushfish

mikmrnd · 03-23-2013, 04:22 PM

Thin devcon 2 ton with denatured alcohol or acetone. I find I get better results with the acetone as a thinner

K gonefishin · 03-23-2013, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slushfish

I used Devon high strength two ton epoxy-all purpose. I mixed it per directions in a plastic cup. Used an acid brush to "paint" it on 6 or 8 blades and it literally started smoking! Could have been the plastic cup, not sure, but somewhere there was a chemical reaction that was not good. The next time someone told me to mix in a couple drops of denatured alcohol and that did work better but still was very thick. I haven't given up on it but need more specifics before I tried it again. Kind of bumbs me out because I have at least 100 really nice blades I can't use till I put a good topcoat on. Any help would be MUCH appreciated. After all spinner season Is just around the corner. Slushfish

What cure time devcon did you buy? Got a picture of the plunger ? You may have been using 15 minute. I mx in plastic cups and never nada problem. It is thick stuff but self levels well after painting it on our blades. Doesn't take but a few drops to thin it out only mix small batches at a time, if it gets thick while working with it you can hit it with a hair drier to warm it up that will thin it out to increase working time.

All else fails try envirotex but it too provides its own set of challenges

slushfish · 03-23-2013, 07:18 PM

I'll try it again w/ acetone. Do you mix equal portions of Devon? How much acetone? Is it easiest to paint it on. How much do you mix at a time? Thanks for the help, I'm anxious to try it again,just want to do it right.
Slushfish

All Eyes · 03-23-2013, 07:45 PM

As KGone said, you may have gotten bad results because it was either quick set epoxy or it was applied too thick. The slower the set time the harder the finish will be. If you haven't already, get the 1 hour set or longer. The E-Tex Lite that I use takes 72 hours to cure. I find that it works best if you wait 45 minutes or so after mixing it and then apply it as thin as you can.
It's weird to me that your epoxy was smoking! That sounds more like MEKP and auto bondo.